Brick In The Yard Mold Supply
Brick In The Yard Mold Supply
BITY Mold Supply. "What is BITY", you ask? BITY stands for "Brick in the yard". Brick In The Yard is a name that harkens back to 1995. A brilliant flash of light, a night in the burn intensive care unit, reconstructive hand surgery, and the "Brick In The Yard" name was born. Space is limited here so go to our web page to get the full "Brick in the yard" story.
BITY is now a supplier of fine Urethanes and Silicones. To order supplies or DVDs click here: www.brickintheyard.com
BITY caters to the FX community, mold makers, and other short run production folk.
BITY is all about information. I designed this channel to be a resource library of sorts for those late nights when you have a crazy casting problem that needs an answer.
To purchase the products in the videos go to www.brickintheyard.com
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Do you wanna make a booby Come on let's go and play We can make it any size you like Stay up all night Please tell me you're not Gaaaaayyyy!
What is the mix ratio and ingredients you have in that cups?
At the end that is the type of mask I am trying to make.After the plaster what type of material then at the end what is that material
I am trying to make a realistic mask that looks like a human for an animatronic
Hahahahahaha!…
Love your video
How did you get the second mask
I want to make a head cast for a mask but I want it to look like realistic skin for a realistic head
So when I’m done painting the silicone doll do I seal it? Then use the matting gel?
I don't know your painting process, but the matting Gel (and any other matting procedure) should be the last step.
Hi good morning.where is this place o country
We are located in Richardson Texas in the US.
Hi ! I have a question- what about the opposite- are there any tricks or tips to make silicone shiny and "wet looking " again- in the event of my bloody, gory paintjob becoming matted out ? (I believe KY jelly is one?) Thanks my friend!
KY can be used as an onset remedy, but some fresh silicone applied will definitely bring back the gloss!
@@bitymoldsupply thanks!
Would a mold release spray like silicone lubricant from Stanley cause cure inhibition with plat based silicones???
Silicone lubricant is very different from release agent. That said, you should not be using any silicone based release when making a silicone mold as you will either get a bond or cure inhibition.
Question. If I matte something with this and later decide to paint it a little more, can I paint over it with pigmented platinum silicone? Or peel it off? Or are you rendering it unpaintable once you use this?
At 5:30-ish, you say to wait until you’re done painting, but I mean… How do I explain what I mean… Is it possible to make it so it CAN be painted again, once this is applied? A way to remove the gel? Or do I just need to be super sure? Sorry if that still isn’t clear enough-it’s 2am, haha. (Also, if I apply this stuff over a doll someone else painted with something like heat-set genesis paints (which seem to rub off over time), will it lock those pigments in or will those still rub off, and now the doll is also unpaintable?)
I have not tried to paint over the Matting Gel, but I don't think that would work.
@@bitymoldsupply Okay, so I’ll try to be extra careful to only apply it when I’m sure I’ve finished. Or maybe I’ll do a few tiny tests to see what’s doable. Anyway, if it works for what I’m working on, I’ll be back to buy a lot more 😂 I’ve been struggling with matting because I don’t have a well ventilated space for it that I can access in the current weather. Using a space heater out there blows a fuse, haha.
Im impressed about all you made, now I have a question.. I like to make an arm ultra realistic. Meaning layer upon layer. So skin layer, fat layer, silicone muscle pieces and solid bone structure.. in this case it’s not the material component (you have plenty videos of that) but more about when to place how. Just like you used cotton to bond at a particular moment. How would I make that? Could you do a video about that? That would be awesome!
The timing of layers will depend on the gel time and working time of the silicone formula used.
Can you cast in a latex mold? What would you use for a release? If you cast in a plastic mold, would you need release?
I have not tried to cast foam into a latex mold. We have some customers that do, but painting is tricky because the release required is difficult to clean off the cast parts. Our E236 could be used as a release, but the part will be VERY difficult to paint unless the part is thoroughly washed.
Are resin pigments ,silicon?
Our polyurethane resins can be pigmented with PolyPig colors. The pigment must be compatible with the base oil of the material to which it is being added.
For my ADHD brain, this video was absolutely perfect! By far the most helpful lifecasting tutorial I've watched so far
Thank you!
I'm dumb maybe...why would I want to make impressions of human body parts? A hand for my fireplace maybe, but give me more. Thanks.
Lots of reasons: Medical simulators, film props, anatomy reference, prosthetic work, tattoo practice, etc. etc.
Oh, that’s a much bigger ratio than I would have expected! Can your shore O-25 handle that much deadener? What would even happen to it at that amount?
This is not Deadener, but it produces a similar result in cured silicone.
I've searched high and low for a clear silicone that's body safe, this could be just what I'm looking for 🙌
Run a test and see how you like it for that. The clear formula we sis here was soft and flexible, but did not have the tear strength of our translucent formulas.
This is EXTREMELY INTERESTING!!! I very much would love to see just how far you can push it before it fails. And, it would be interesting to compare it to Platsil 10 and/or Platsil 25, both also deadened to their respective maximums. It would seem that beyond being clearer than these two Platsils, it would also result in a much more extended volume. I excitedly look forward to your next experiments with this!!! 😃😃😃
It won't make the PlatSil Gels clear, just soften them.
@@bitymoldsupply Yes, I know. Both the Platsil silicones are cloudy/white, at best. And, the "Faux 2 0" is "water clear". But, can the "Faux 2 0" be deadened with the "Prosthetic Additive 1" as much as the Plastil silicones? That was my point.
I'll see how far I can push this. I did another test with a ratio of 1A:1B:6PA1 and it still cured but was a little softer.
Is there a reliable way of gradating from transparent to color? For example, making a model hand that is fleshtone from the wrist, but gradually becomes transparent towards the fingers.
Adding silicone pigment would be the only way I can think of to control the clarity.
This can be accomplished in a few different ways. 1. This would involve multiple pours, each with a lessening or greater translucency. To help hide the transition between each layer, you will need to roll the mould at a slight angle, extending the silicone up the side of the mould. In essence, you would be extending the "Miniscus layer" around the edges of the casting. Let cure, and repeat with the next layer to progress the transition. 2. "Intrinsically" paint the transition into the mould, before casting the silicone solid, behind it. To do this, start by painting a thin "skin" of the silicone into the mould negative. Then proceed to paint in the transition into the mould, make sure you use ONLY silicone-compatible paints or pigments. Finally, back the painting process with more silicone. 3. "Extrinsically" paint the transition on the outside of the casting. This would also be the weakest method in durability. 4. A combination of all three proposed methods. This would provide the best possible results of all, and it would allow for each technique to compensate for any discrepancies of the other techniques.
I’ve been waiting for something like this to come along. I wonder if you could tint it with red to achieve a fresh blood effect that is not rigid, but also not too opaque.
You could definitely add some red silicone pigment to color it.
Great information. Thanks
Glad it was helpful! Thanks!
Will this ever wear off? Is it permanent if I use this instead of matting powder on a silicone baby?
I have not seen it wear off yet.
Nice product, what is the best adhesive to apply these prothetics wth.
You could use more prosthetic Gel 1, Telesis, Snappy G, or Silabond.
If I want to replace the sam with platinum silicone as a paint based for best results what is the closest form to it ,even if you haven’t try it Cuz it’s too small for beginner like me😅😅
You can also paint with 5110F provided you do the painting as soon as possible after demolding the original 5110 or 5110F cast. kzread.info/dash/bejne/c5x7k7Ojdty5ebg.htmlsi=7572JAvzQmXLnpKf
Ooh, this stuff looks really cool. Love the slow, natural stretch. And if it’s prosthetic grade, it won’t leech out over time, right? I’ve heard stuff like silicone oil can.
This is a very stable formula. We have been testing it for while with very good results. It does not appear to leach much, if any oil.
@@bitymoldsupply That’s really excellent. It looks super sticky, though… With a skin of another silicone and matting powder, would it be reduced to normal silicone tackiness? Oh, a question that I’ll try to remember to call y’all with on Monday if it’s not a quick yes/no here! For silicon powder, I’ve heard of wet and dry applications, but I haven’t seen anyone mixing it into the silicone itself before applying it. If I could mix an equal amount into both parts A and B (separated) and bring it back inside before applying it, would that cause problems? Or is it doable? (Asking because my current setup isn’t necessarily well ventilated enough for dusting a reborn with the powder, but I can’t just stand outside to do it… Well, maybe if my partner helped set up my wheelchair out there? But it isn’t as promising. I can stand for short periods of time, but not long ones.)
The sticky form of this formula would rarely be used without an encapsulating layer of more silicone or cap plastic (for prosthetics). At the end of the video I use additional Prosthetic Gel 1 brushed into the mold as a skin and then back fill it with the heavily softened Gel.
@@bitymoldsupplyThis is what I get for trying to watch with the sound off, hahaha. But this stuff looks so amazing that I actually ordered some today to do a couple very small tests before I get a larger amount. I was wondering-do you sell durometers or know a good place to get cheap ones that are ballpark accurate? I tried ordering one off eBay, and it didn’t work at all…a complete dud. (I would be looking for shore O, specifically, something that at least gets within 10 of the right number)
Is it better then the old powdered sugar hack?
Just a different way, mainly for silicone makeups. Gel = no dust.
This is great information for learning. Thanks a lot pal.
Thanks!
would love to hear how this works with the TC 51xx silicones. would be really cool if you guys can test that.
In my to-do list!
would "deadening" it 200% make it sticky enough for an appliance to be applied without glue?
I’m not sure if the 1:1:2 ratio works out to 200%, but it would stick at that ratio.
would we still have to use powder after this?
No. This is used instead of powder.
Are there any SLA resins that you know to not cause cure inhibitions with platinum silicone?
I have heard mixed reports on SLA resins. There are some that do not inhibit platinums and some that do. Hopefully we can compile a list of compatible resins at some point.
Can’t you use from smooth on NOVOCS matte instead the matting gel? Take the shine right away when silicone is cured.
This is an option with no solvent that can be applied to skin if necessary. Very simple and fast.
About novelty is this body safe i guess yes since it use in makeup
This was originally formulated for makeup applications on the face. How that translates to other areas of the body is above my pay grade!
Does it ever wear off? Does it feel dry to the touch?
It dries and feels like silicone.
Great stuff!
Thanks!
Does this work with Oven bake clay like Super Sculpey? And Thank YOU for posting this I'm very enthusiastic to learn this!
I have not heard of any issues with baked sculpey, but it is always a good idea to run a small test to make sure platinum silicone will cure over the pattern.
@@bitymoldsupply I'll do that. Thank You for sharing this it means a lot to me for progressing my artist career! I' learning a whole lot!
Great! I would like to paint my first platinum reborn, can you help me by telling me the list of necessary products I shall use? I already have special colora for silicon but I am not sure what shall I use to mix them and fix them .... Thank s so much. I have always used acrylics, oil, watercolors,....this woould be my firts reborn painting 😅
What we use in this video is it: SAM-32, OSS Solvent, and silicone pigments. There are links in the video description and additional resources on our website. Thanks for watching!
the telephone machine. 😄
Thank you for noticing!
If I couldn’t find mask making latex and I had latex from spirt Halloween would that work for a latex mask or would it be way too thin?
I don't know anything about that latex. Best to do a test and find out or call the manufacturer.
Are you selling SFP right now or just the aerosil?
We are out of SFP right now but we'll have it back in stock soon.
Great video
Thanks for watching!
Which type would be good for creating tattoo practice skin?
Just about all of our translucent silicones will work for that, but the OO30 and OO50 are the most popular.
@@bitymoldsupply Can you give us a brief understanding of the differences between 0030 and 0050? And do you have any smaller containers of the ones that work well for tattooing prosthetic so we are able to do some testing to see which meets our requirements?
@@DjMrGrimM OO30 is the softer of the two, being similar in feel to an earlobe. OO50 is about like the tips of your fingers. We have another KZread video on tattoo skins. I’ll post a link to it. The smallest kit size we offer is 2lbs which works out to about 50 cubic inches. kzread.info/dash/bejne/eI6FuMmpm6XUcZs.htmlsi=U45rCh4OH7KRsYsM
Thanks man
You're welcome!
Really great info on making more productive molds to crank out lots of small parts. 👍
Thank you sir!
Mazing
Thanks!