Tips and tricks of the trade from a qualified wood machinist with 40 years experience.
I hope to pass on some of my knowledge to anyone that wants it. While there are always more than one way to go about anything, I will show you how I go about my work, & hopefully you can take that information & put it to use on your own projects. While i am an amateur when it comes to producing videos, i hope to learn quickly and make my videos entertaining and informative. With that in mind, please let me know in the comments section how i could make my videos better for you the viewer.
Disclaimer:
The purpose of these videos are intended to provide a guide only. If you choose to reproduce anything you may have observed in these videos, you do so at your own risk. Bryce Comer Woodworks takes no responsibility for any action taken as a result of the information or advice on this KZread channel nor shall it have any liability in respect of any injury or damage that may result.
Пікірлер
Watching from Cowichan Bay.👍🏝️🇨🇦
Thanks for watching. Hope you're staying cool in this heat we're having on the west at the moment.
Ive had a few bad experiences with auction sites ,such as mislabeled machines . Example ; i bought a 10hp 3 phase that turned out to be 15 hp 3phase my converter will only run 10 hp . I got lucky and was able to get a full refund. (very rare)with auction items its buyer beware.. I have a couple more bad storys but my advice is, if you're not willing to drive and pick it up yourself, dont bid..
Great advise @billystray7007! I guess for some machinery you will be able to research all the specs, but not all. Thanks for watching.
Great advice - thanks Bryce. Cheers
Thanks for watching @justcruisin109.
Buy low sell high!
Man i wish i could do that! 🤣
I just checked out your website Bryce. Very nice work. Keep it up.
Thank you. Always learning.
As someone currently going the process, I would avoid buying 3 phase machines if you don’t need them. Unless you already have 3 phase power, or already own a phase converter and necessary accessories, it is t worth it. It is costly to get phase converters and not as simple as just getting a phase converter. In my region, I also need a breaker or fuse for overload protection. Additional disconnects as well as something for regeneration protection maybe needed. There are more things to deal with when it comes time for electrical inspection. Realistically, small shops and hobbyists usually don’t need 3 phase machinery. Entry level industrial grade equipment is available in single phase. On the used market, you will have to be patient because it is less common but it is out there. For example, I bought a used 3 phase Felder K500S. 5 months later the same machine, three years newer, was available for just $600 more than I paid. My phase converter cost $3800 alone. An expensive lesson for me.
Thanks for watching @reid8588, and thanks for the info! Where are you located? I don't have experience with phase converters, but from what i have heard and read, it sounds like here in North America at least, it isn't a big issue to use them. I have some single phase machinery, and my CF531 was also single phase, but going back to 3 phase for my CF741 really did make a big difference in many ways. I also have a VFD running a 3phase multi head boring machine. That works, but it definitely takes a little more time to spin up than running it straight from 3 phase power. Now that i'm in my new shop, i might look at converting it back to run on 3-phase. That's a bummer about the K500s saw. I guess that's the problem with buying used, there's always a chance there's a better bargain just around the corner, whereas with new machinery, they typically don't go down in price! 😅
@@brycecomerwoodworks I am in Ottawa. Just to be clear, I was not trying to criticize you. I just want people to understand it isn't just as simple as plugging your machine into a phase converter. I looked into VFD's as well, but several manufacturers explained to me that the electronics of my machines were too complex and the VFD simply wouldn't work. I was disappointed to see that single phase K500s for sale but you can't sit around waiting for the perfect deal. How do you like your combination machines? I strongly considered them because I am limited for space, but they don't come up for sale used very often. I can't afford them new so I had to go a different route.
@@reid8588 Oh, we're practically neighbors here in Canada! 😆 That's the first time i've heard of needing other breakers etc. so it's really good information. I am very limited on space with only 1000sq/f and about 600 of mezanine. Of that 1000sq/f i have a bathroom, spray booth, and drying room. Heck even the stairs take up a bunch of space. I need a fair bit of space for assembly etc. so yeah, my space is very limited. Unfortunately where i live, there was simply nothing else available when i needed to move my shop, and there still isn't anything, so it looks like i just need to make do. That was of course the main reason behind getting another combo machine. I can't say enough good things about my last combo machine, the CF531 for the money, but the 700 series is definitely a step up, and feels more like an industrial machine. I do wish i had the space for separate machines, as that would give me more flexibility if i ever had someone else working with me. While it's just me though, the combo machine doesn't really slow things down much at all.
@reid8588 once you get over 5hp 3ph becomes more economical. Over 10hp and its basically your only option. Phase perfect, rotary phase converters or vfds all have positive and negative attributes, but none are that difficult to setup (imho). That said I can't speak to canadian requirements, here in the US you can just add a converter to a residential service.
@@jar944 Thanks for the info. When you say over 5hp it becomes more economical, is that based on the cost of the motor and running it? I would have thought even anything under that hp would still operate more efficiently on 3 phase, albeit with diminishing returns.
There's some great information here, condensed into a very view-able video :) I am based in the Netherlands and own both new and used woodworking machines ranging from entry level to premium. Buying used is a great way to get started although you have to be prepared to work on the machines. If you don't own any tools for doing so, factor in some $500 in wrenches and sockets and such. Another investment that's easily overlooked is a pallet jack. Once you get into the professional (euro) machines you'll need at least a decent pallet jack to be able to move them around. Even an entry level jointer/planer will easily weigh over 500 pounds with premium sliding table saws and widebelt sanders easily weighing over 3000 pounds. If your shop has central dust collection, each new machine will bring a certain cost in new ducting to connect it to the system. The same goes for compressed air. I've found that a machine always costs more than the price tag says, whether new or used. You'll need saw blades, planer knives, a fritz&franz or a crazy horse dolly. In case of a spindle moulder; make sure to shop around for tooling before buying the machine. If you're used to router bits you'll be in for a small heart attack.
Dat is wel heel goed advisieren, dankjewel!!! Ok, my Dutch i so rusty, i should stop there! :) You're absolutely right about the machine being only part of the cost. There is always so much more to the overall cost, which is part of the reason why buying used when it works out makes so much sense. Shaper tooling is definitely a big expense, especially as you say, if you're coming from a router table. Thanks for watching!!
I have a shop almost exclusively full of "used" machines. Used industrial 3ph machinery is ridiculously cheap compared to new. Its also really build to last. My 16" 2500lb newman jointer was made in 1946 and is as perfect as the day it was made. Should something break (unlikely) I can still call newman-whitney and get parts. Im still kicking myself for missing out on a local 4 head moulder last month that went for $3 at auction. Imho used is the way to go for most large stationary equipment.
That's a great example of the benefits of used machinery. In a lot of ways, they don't make them like they used to. Pity you missed out on the moulder!
Individual choice for sure.Second hand or brand new.for me always reasonable priced brand new.i am a professional.Cannot trust some bodys second hand :) Keep up the good work and stay thirsty my friend !
I totally agree. As a business owner, it often makes more sense to spend the money on a new machine. I'm a pretty crappy buisness man though, so i've got a mix of old and new! 😆
@@brycecomerwoodworks same here Sir.More of a craftsman than a business. I forgot to mention hope you got a air assisted ?
@@Technogodd I'd like to say yes, but no, it's just airless. My plan though is to add air assist with a new gun & hook it up to the shop air.🙂
I had heart palpitations when I saw this video. Of course you went and posted this video after I bought a shop worth of machines! 😅
😆
I purchased a used Robland X31 5-function machine for $3000 about 7 years ago. It has 3 separate 3ph motors and provides a sliding table saw, shaper, 12" jointer and 12" planer and has a mortising attachment. I can highly recommend this type of machine because it provides a single island of mass that improves the performance of every function it provides. I added a Shelix cutter and a power feeder - the machine has a swiveling plate that stows the feeder below the table when not in use. There are a number of manufacturers that produce multi function machines but they are not as common in the US. Watching machinery auction websites is extremely helpful. Felder offers this type of machine along with Hammer, SCM Robland and a number of others. I am surprised that more people don't use this typ[e of machine. It does require setup to go between functions, however it is extremely fast and easy. Also, the most time consuming changeover (2 minutes) is switching between jointer & planer, which most people are still doing if they get a jointer planer combo. The desire for separate machines is understandable but, in practice, not nearly as mu7ch of a concern as I thought it would be. The power feeder is perfectly position for use onm the jointer, shaper and the table saw and it's effortless. All of my work is now much safer and more accurate.
Bryce, You are a kindred spirit. I too love a bargain and can be a cheap bastard too! But that does not mean I will not spend a lot of money on top quality machines. Moving to three phase power opens you up to a bunch of machinery like you said, but that machinery has a much smaller market than the single phase machines do. That means, three phase machine often go for pennies on the dollar used. I went from no 3 phase machine three years ago to eight machines now! Three were purchased new and the other five were purchased used. The prices were from 50% to 90% off a new machine. Get a Phase Perfect or rotary phase converter and enjoy the better machines!
Exactly, there's simply no comparison between 3 phase machinery and single phase. Hopefully someone will let us know how efficient a 3 phase machine is via the phase converters. I have no idea having never used them. All of the machinery i've ever used outside of my own shop has been 3 phase. I can't speak to the market size between industrial type shops, and home shops, but suspect that it might make more sense for business to buy new and it likely makes more sense to invest in the most up to date, efficient machinery possible?
@@brycecomerwoodworks Bryce - Phase Perfect Phase converters are 97%+ efficient. Three phase machines also use smaller gauge wire for the same HP saving some money there! For me, where I live on the west coast of the US, the deals are everywhere if you are willing to drive. I have purchased two used machines that were too far for me to drive to pick up. I am at 50% success with those shipments, but I was covered by the insurance. You need to feel comfortable to work on your machines if you want to buy used. Some woodworkers do not feel comfortable working on their machines and that is ok. Sometimes the only solution is new if you want the latest technology other times the machines are so good they rarely change. Businesses get to take advantage of tax breaks on new equipment, so they are often wanting to invest in newer tech vs paying the profits to taxes. I have also met many business owners that cannot find people that are reliable and choose to invest in CNC's that just keep working. Which means there are great machines out there if you can wait.
@@pkwoodworking Wow 97% efficient is amazing! There really is no worry then by the sound of it. You're right about the windings in the 3-phase motors and associated wiring. It's all much smaller, in part due to the typically higher voltages. Woodworking machinery really hasn't changed much in decades, just the bells and whistles thankfully, so if you can do without those, you're golden. Unless of course we're talking CNC's then yeah, it's changed dramatically. When i was doing my apprenticeship in the early 80's, and was finished all my schooling, they asked if i wanted to come back when they recieved their first CNC. I totally dismissed the offer, in part because i didnt want to go back after being finished with school, partly because i had no idea how to even turn a computer on, & also because i simply had no idea how CNC's would shape the way some things are made. Thankfully i haven't had to worry too much about that decision, as i've always worked in smaller custom shops before owning my own & the need for CNC simply hasn't been there. 😅 Thanks for your input, you make some great points!
hello wahat name digital redut for flips stop and where buy
Hello @barbarabalinska6336, Thank you for watching. If you would like some more info on the flipstops take a look at this video here. kzread.info/dash/bejne/moiB0deFhrvJlZM.html The one i have is the stock Felder flipstop that i have modified. There are ones that you can buy that fit the Felder machines here. lambtoolworks.com/dro-flipstop
2 beers and a doobie is how i take the edgs off
😂😂😂
😅😂
I just need to hire you for guidance! Excellent information as always!
What kind of sander set up do you use?
I'd like to say i have a nice big wide belt sander, but alas, i don't have room. :( I do have a drum sander, but most of my stuff gets hit with a random orbital and the edge sander. Thanks for watching Justin.
Festool orbital? If so, do you use the Festool dust extractor or a regular shop vac? I’m thinking of making the investment, been burning through big box store sanders too often. Hoping if I spend the money I’ll get at least a few years out of it.
@@justinmanery4269 I have indeed just invested in a Festool sander. I got the ETS EC 150/5 EQ-Plus. I compared it to the equivalent Mirka, & that one actually had shot bearings. I was able to test both side by side. When the guy at the shop brought a new Mirka out, it felt as good as the Festool, but i decided on the Festool. I don't have their shop vac, just a cheapy that i turn on manually when using the sander. It works well & i have basically zero dust, although that's pretty much the same with my other sanders when they're hooked up to the shopvac. After using the Festool sander for a few months now i can say this. It seems to remove material more efficiently than my other sanders. It's way more ergonomic & nicer to use than my other sanders too and i expect it will last longer than all of those other sanders. Is it worth the money you have to spend over the typical sander you might buy from Dewalt, Milwaukee, Makita etc? That's still a little hard for me to say. It's approximately 8 or 9 times the cost, so that, coupled with not knowing yet how long it lasts has to be factured into the equation. What also needs to be weighed in is the speed. If it takes me less time to sand something, it makes me money, so if i was to go out on a limb, i would say it likely is worth the cost.
Great! Thanks for getting back to me.
I like to use the fence with twisted boards Bryce, I’m halving the ‘rock’ same as you but I’m putting pressure on the fence as a sort of brace I guess, and more pressure to fence than down if that makes sense. Works for me, maybe I’m just weird but 😂👍🏻
Hey Dazza, that makes perfect sense to me. What ever works to get a stable board so you can take the twist out in as few passes as possible.
More good info on getting better results when machining timber.
Thanks for watching @CreativeCarpentry!
Great information Great videos Thanks 🏴
Glad you're enjoying the content @PeterSmith-rc9ve. Thanks for watching.
This is the best stuff! Didn't even think to just use water😂 🤦🏾
I'm sure there are sometimes when you need something stronger, but everytime i've done just this, it's worked a treat! :)
How strong are the panels,if they are fastened with nails. If someone kicks will the panel fall off?
They would really have to be kicking it hard to bust them. Probably easier to simply break the glass on the side lights in the jamb if you wanted to get in.
Good idea. What kind of wood are you using? I'm about to build an exterior door for my cabin in the Pacific NW and this video is timely. Thanks!
Thanks for watching Donald, This one is red oak & will be painted. I expect it will get knocked around a bit as it will see lots of wheel chair traffic. Lots of good material you could use where you live. Western red cedar is a timber i'm sure you're very familiar with there in the PNW. If you don't expect it to get knocked about too much, it's a fantastic timber for wetter areas, just soft. :) Doug fir is also pretty good if you can get some nice old growth.
and don't forget air- or at least wind-tight.
Absolutely. This one is a little different in that it has a low profile threshold, so it will have a drop seal on the bottom. For the rest of the door though, it will get just one seal. That's where i believe the European style of entrance door wins, with their double air seals.
It is a testament to your sense of quality work that you ask for advice to make sure "they don't fall apart in 10 or 20 years". Can't have that kind of shoddy work, eh! 😆
I'd be giving it all up if i knew my work would fail in under 20 years! You know what it's like in Europe, things are built to last several lifetimes, & that's what i think we should all strive for.
You can also look into how doors are made in Europe, they have staggered rubber joints on the perimeter for extra air tightness and sound insulation
Ah yes, i just replied to another comment saying just that. The European doors are beautiful the way they seal, as are the windows!!! Thanks for watching, & thanks for the comment.
From a novice woodworker that seems like a very good idea to me, but re-sawing foam does not sound like much fun. Nice Job great videos keep them coming.
Thanks Nate, Actually cutting the foam is really easy. I've done it before, but never this thin. Even so, it cut quite straight & only took 2 passes through the sander to get it perfect. Thank you for watching.
Australian watching here so not so important for me but interesting nonetheless. What other techniques do you use - stave core? Cheers
Thanks for watching @justcruisin109, yeah not as important in Oz for sure. I know of doors i made almost 40 years ago there that are still perfect. I'm sure though, that that would not be the case if the same doors were here in Canada! :) Stave doors are definitely a good way to keep things from moving. The door in this video isn't made with stave construction for the rails and stiles, but built up with laminations of the material like a glulam beam if you will. Still very stiff and holds its form well over time. The top has 8 lights, and that's another difference (although less nowadays) than in Australia, as each of the truly divided pieces is a double glazed unit, giving the door better insulation values for the climate here. This particular door will be used as wheel chair access, so had a low profile aluminium threshold with drop seal that drops down on the threshold when the door closes. (You have to keep those drafts out when it's -20 deg. C outside!)
Accoya all the way. Pretty much ZERO movement or rotting
@@Dazza19746 One of these days i'll build a door with Accoya! That's good to know about the lack of movement. I'm pretty much in the middle of nowhere, so getting my hands on some Accoya isn't as easy as i wish it was. But if like you say there's virtually no movement, maybe i have to try harder! :)
@@brycecomerwoodworks I think it’s so slight it’s literally negligible. Also because of that the paint finishes last 3-4 times longer as you don’t get the normal failure at cross grain joins ( virtually every one for us guys) And you’ll never need to worry about having to plane doors down when they swell! Highly recommend
@@Dazza19746 Ok you've sold me on it! :) The next paint grade door i do i will definitely have to source some Accoya. Thank you for the advice!!
Lee Valley has the original Dubuque version of those aluminum bar clamps and they're worth the extra coin IMO. The extruded bars of the cheap ones can be pretty flimsy and tend to twist when clamping.
Thanks Peter, They look very nice. The castings look to be way better than the ones i have. At $54.50 for the 24" version, they're substantially more than the $12 for the ones i have been using. They would probably last longer though. For my business, i have to be able to look at how soon i'm able to recoup the cost. Everytime i spend money on machinery or equipment, it needs to make me money, so while i would love to buy the nicest tools, sometimes it's just not worth spending more if i can do the same job with a cheaper tool. Thanks for watching, & thanks for your input. It's all valuable information!
Time to get clamping!! Thanks Bryce. Love the videos (might go pilfer the shop next door)
Ha, ha. Thanks Dirk. There's always a clamp or two for you to "pilfer" 😆
From the start of watching your videos I always assumed that you were working from Australia from the accent. How would you compare woodworking in America compared to Australia? Always enjoy your videos thanks
Hi David, Thank you for taking the time to watch, it's greatly appreciated. I guess from inside the workhop, i could be anywhere in the world! :) All my school years were after Australia changed to the metric system, however when i landed my apprentiship, it was all in imperial. They had always worked that way, & there was really no need to change. Being fresh out of school though, meant that i was no stranger to learning new things, & i picked it up fairly easily. My next boss though was younger, and worked only in metric. I have to say, that was actually easier! When i moved to Canada in the mid 2000's, i couldn't believe that everyone here, at least in my area, worked in imperial. I think i had a harder time adjusting that time!😆 Aside from that, there are just differences in design more than anything. Some work practices for sure, and different timbers, but all very relatable. Australia is quite stringent with workplace safety and that's where i probably see the most differences. I have been blown away by the number of times i see people using equipment without guarding. The company i worked for when i first moved here was no different & that was one of the reasons i ended up leaving the company. After 40 years in the game, i still have all my digits, so seeing people loose them, or part of them when it could have been avoided i find hard to fathom. OMG i sure can waffle on, tthat was almost a short novel! If you're still reading this, thank you for your time! 😄
@@brycecomerwoodworks thank you , that was so interesting. Till next video!
Thanks for your videos, they’re great. I’m looking at Felder gear down the road and was thinking about the saw/shaper combo and jointer/planer combo as two units instead of the all-in-one. If space wasn’t a factor, would you have split the setup or does the ability to have the power feeder available for the jointer make the difference?
Hi @jcheveran, If space wasn't an issue, i would likely go with all separate machines. Having said that, when i was looking at upgrading from the CF531, having the ability to use the power feeder on the jointer was a very big factor. I am jointing big heavy long boards, & set up the power feeder to do it on a regular basis. It really does make a big difference. If you don't run a lot of big, long and heavy boards over the jointer, then i wouldn't take it into consideration. Having separate machines is certainly simpler if you need to change from one process to another for one off jobs, but i have to be honest and say that having to change things up with the combination machine probably only costs me a few minutes each day, & less if i plan things well. The other consideration is if you will be working with others. If that's the case, and you have the space, then it's a no brainer, go with all separate machines. Thanks for watching!
@@brycecomerwoodworks thanks, great perspectives
I appreciate you taking the time to do these videos! Can we please see a finished pic of this project one day?
Hi @SaleemHodge, Absolutely! I will likely do a bit more video on this particular project before moving on to the next job, so you will certainly see how all these parts fit together. :) Thank you for watching.
Much appreciate your videos and I too have mostly Felder equipment - thanks for taking the time to show your technique and look forward to more! Best, Mike @woodenimagination_workshop
Hi Mike, thank you for you kind words, & thanks for watching! Not that i'm a Felder fan boy, but they do make some nice machinery.
I ended up in hospital and and to have an operation over a splinter Bryce! I let it go and go and go, until one day I couldn’t stand the pain, went to Dr, sent me straight to hand hospital, and I was in the operating theatre! They recon I was week away from 💀 You sort of get red lines going up your arm to your heart!
😧 I'm glad to hear you got it in time! I try to get them out straight away if i can. That's where these splinter forceps are incredible.
Put gloves on.
Unfortunately gloves and machinery don't always go well together. When i'm just handling fir though, especially rough sawn fir, i try to always wear gloves. :)
@@brycecomerwoodworks when I’m jointing super splitty rough stuff I find the fingerless ones aren’t too bad. Our game is a tactile one , we use touch as much as sight and gloves are no good as you say👍🏻
@@Dazza19746 Good tip!
You need a tool shed for something the size.of that!
Thanks for watching. If you enjoyed this video, here is another one you might like. kzread.info/dash/bejne/lYNop8-FesLFZ5s.html Remember, if you like the video and would like to see more content like it, please like, subscribe, and even share this video.
Thanks for watching. If you enjoyed this video, here is another one you might like. kzread.info/dash/bejne/ooKt2bOmhs6ah6g.html Remember, if you like the video and would like to see more content like it, please like, subscribe, and even share this video.
Tanks Bryce! If possible, pls show som template moulding using a copyin ring 🌞
Hi @matsadler1119, Absolutely. It will unfortunately need to coincide with some work, but i will make sure to make a video of how it's done when i am doing some guide ring work.
How do you establish the right speed for the power feeder for a specific cut?
I'm glad you asked that question. I was actually thinking i should do a video on exactly this, or at least include it in the next one. Stay tuned! :)
@@brycecomerwoodworks it might also be helpful if you could cover how much you should take off in a single pass say for a deep rebate but still getting clean results. I’m self thought and it’s difficult to find any good instructional videos . I have a similar set up machine wise but separate saw and moulder both 700 series Felder machines so it’s really great seeing you working on the same kit. Thanks Bryce
@@CreativeCarpentry Hi David, Assuming your machine can handle it, i would always take the full cut in one pass.
Loving the shaper series - your becoming a pro at the KZread videos!
Thanks David, Not sure about the "pro" bit. I am trying, but this was the third attempt at putting this one together, just had lots of mishaps with the camera and audio gear. Trying to get work done and film it all is not always easy. Hopefully though i will learn and it will get easier. The video i made on building a 3 panel passage door took me way longer to make the video than it did to actually make the door! 😆
Nice introduction. Good to see you have a cockpit drill to check everything is secure.
Hi Jonathan, I've never heard the term "cockpit drill" before, but i like it. Yes super important to always check everything before starting the machine. Something not in the video but i always do before firing up the machine is spin the cutterhead by hand. I will have to make sure i put that in the next video, as it's a step that really shouldn't be missed. Thanks for your feedback.
dose the outfeed fence on the spindle run off, both my GFG-41 and GF-741S do
Not on mine no. I have had situations where the fences weren't coplaner, but it has always just been a case of taking the fences off and cleaning the surfaces and things were back to perfect. Maybe try that, as it could be a simple as just having a wood shaving or something stuck between the surfaces.
@@brycecomerwoodworks ive been on the tools for fifty years its not wood shavings,thanks
@@user-wv4ud1lt8c That sucks. How far out do they run? The CF-741s is the same machine as mine, with mine being new. The hood has been slightly re-designed from the old hood that was on my old machine. I never had any issues with that hood either though.
@@user-wv4ud1lt8c After i replied this morning, i thought i should actually check to make sure my outfeed fence is indeed straight. While i have never noticed an issue, i figured it could still be out ever so slightly, so when i got to work this morning I checked it, and sure enough, it's perfectly in line with the infeed fence.
One aspect of saw/spindle moulder combination machines that I don't care for is having the surface of the sliding table wagon slightly above the main table casting. Not a big deal with wider pieces or coping cuts but trying to profile narrower stock can become maddening as your material will want to tip into that lower space between the edge of the table and the fence. I always end up having to fill it with a narrow piece of plastic laminate and double sided tape. Height difference is visible at 7:16
Hi Peter, yes that's definitely something to be aware of on any shaper with a slider. Not an issue most of the time, but occasionally when the material being run is just wide enough that it rides on the slider it can be. With that said, as frustrating as it may seem, sometimes we need to decide if it will actually be detrimental to the final piece. I'm thinking something like a profile on the top of a baseboard or skirting board likely wouldn't be an issue at all. For other profiles it possibly could be, and in that case i would use a sacrificial fence with an extra piece on the table so the material being run is completely above the height of the slider. Thanks for watching, and thank you for your insights. Regards, Bryce
I usually put a larger plate on the machine, secure it so it won't slide and use that to carry the material. If needed the we can be done for the fence.
@@jonathanmartens Yeah perfect! There's normally always a workaround. :)
Hi again Bryce. Thanks for another useful video. I've already set a DRO up on the rip fence for our KF700 but I'm also struggling working out the details for mounting the bracket and sensor for the crosscut.. Also, I notice that the end nut that you drilled and tapped rotates when you 'flip' the stop - does this cause any problems? any further images or explanation would be really helpful. Thanks
Hi Tim, The bolt that i drilled and tapped doesn't actually rotate, the flip stop spins on it without it moving. At least that's how it works on my flip stops. I have three of them. If yours is spinning, maybe try taking it apart and see if there is something not in the right order with the washers etc. If you need, i could have a look at the order of them and let you know.
@@brycecomerwoodworks Hi Bryce. Thanks for your reply. The stops look similar (if not the same) but ours definitely rotate. I came across another post where someone said they introduced a bearing into the mounting to counteract the rotation - so I guess i'm not the only one encountering the same problem. yep i wonder if there's some way of arranging the washers etc to 'decouple' it although we've never altered it so I'm guessing this is how it came from the factory. I'm guessing your's is a newer machine so it's possible they've altered/improved things (ours is 2004 model..). Again thanks for your input. Tim
@@wawmsey1 That's interesting. My old machine was the same as this, infact, the flipstop i have the DRO on is from that machine. It was built in 2011. The new ones are the same, so maybe it was changed some time after your machine was built. Another option would be to buy another flipstop to put it on. An extra flipstop is super handy. I have 3, but most of the time i could get away with just 2.
@@brycecomerwoodworks I just checked out a Felder product video and indeed it seems the bolts on the newer version do not rotate with the flip stop.. Will have to consider purchasing a second. Thanks
@@wawmsey1 It might be worth pulling it apart to see if you can add some super heavy grease, or something that will stop it from rotating? I know mine are very tight in the aluminium part & they have a very sticky grease on them.
Every shop needs a few medium sized (400-800kg) spindle moulders. I'd agree the smaller light weight units just don't have the rigidity you really want.
Now you're talking! :)
@brycecomerwoodworks I keep trying to downsize from three down to one or two, but somehow ended up with four currently. I just don't like setting up and tearing down frequently like with one machine.
@@jar944 if you have the space, why not! 😃
BC - Thank you for the shaper vids. I'm getting closer to retirement and plan to spend time hobby woodworking, something I've wanted to do since my high school classes. If room permits, I may be adding a shaper, so these vids are a real help. Thanks again.
Oh Doug, retirement is overrated. At least that's what i need to keep telling myself! 😅 I have limited space in my shop too, that's why i went with the combination machine. Thanks for watching!
@@brycecomerwoodworks I need to amend my comment - retirement from house painting in SW Florida. I plan to make & sell K-horn speaker kits, plantation shutters, interior custom doors, and a few furniture projects I've sketched out in the past 15 years that are not like anything I've seen. I am giving serious thought to the combo machine. I watched your door vid the other day and was amazed at how quickly you were able to make it. Your channel should continue to grow because you are more about the craft, and less about fancy slick editing and corny jokes. Suggest you either make a Patreon account or monetize your account here - I'll buy you a coffee as an appreciation for good content. Cheers.
Thanks for watching. If you enjoyed this video, here is another one you might like. kzread.info/dash/bejne/i59129lqgZS7qM4.html Remember, if you like the video and would like to see more content like it, please like, subscribe, and even share this video.
Good video - always nice to stop and think about safety.. Wondering if in another video you could give a little detail on the simplified (?) Fritz and Franz jig you're using around the 5 minute mark. Thanks
Thanks for watching. Yes it's a pretty basic Fritz und Franz jig & i can certainly give a bit more detail on it in another video. What exactly would you like to see?
@@brycecomerwoodworks ..Again thanks for reply. I guess specifically how you've attached the front and back segments to the slider slot.? also have you applied any sort of tape for grip to the 2 inward faces?
@@wawmsey1 I'll have to check when i'm back in the shop, but i think i just machined up a piece of maple or something the same width as the slot and glued and nailed it to some 5/8 or 3/4" Baltic birch ply. Nothing for grip, but i don't seem to find i need it. One of these days i'll probably add a stop to each of them, as that would be handy in a lot of situations.
It’s great to ,hear from an actual wood machinist and not a you tube pro! Great videos thanks
Yep, i definitely wouldn't call myself a KZread pro! 😆 Hopefully though i can make content that people want to sit through and maybe even learn from. Thanks for watching!
You can of course get a spindle for the spindle Moulder/ ‘shaper’ that takes router bits. I haven’t tried it, and I wouldn’t shell out for one, as you would get a good router table for less, the option is there but ( certainly for those of us in the Felder family 👍🏻)
Yes, you're absolutely right. You still have the same issues as i explained though regarding the cutting circle & lack of mass of a router bit. I have the router spindle for that machine, & have used it on occasion. It's nice being able to utilize the shaper fence and feeder & have the large size of the machine, but it's rare that i use it, as most of the time i can do what's needed with shaper cutters & get a better job. For site work though, there's no beating a router, & you can of course always set up a quick and nasty router table with a sheet of melamine or ply and a piece of 1x material for a fence. Thanks for watching @Dazza19746. 🙂
Very true but when I bought my first shaper, all I had were router bits so it bought me time to figure out what shaper cutters made the most sense to get first. My router bits now only see action in a palm router.
@@thomasnourse7506 I can imagine! I use a router all the time, but it's almost always hand held.