Had to learn the hard way that the limiting height for the collection box is the distance between the back table saw board and the bottom of the saw cover (will vary by the width of your back board). Which in my case was just under 4 inches. So, if your fence protrudes more than 4 inches and you make a box with 2-inch opening, by the time you add the Hight of the top cover for the box it’s too high and will catch and stop the saw from retracting to its back position.
@ximonoАй бұрын
They sell someting like that in Sweden (Ottoson Färgmakeri does to be precise). It's a glass with a cork with the brush handle sticking through it. Genious!
@user-oj4ev4ds8g2 ай бұрын
Great company. we have an original saw in our shop to cut aluminum
@Codemanny3 ай бұрын
Hey Jim I found your channel through this video searching for information on radial arm saws. The project videos are cool but this one where you share knowledge and experimentation on a tool is the best. I’ll be picking up the 10in version of this saw tomorrow thanks to you👍
@Towelie42003 ай бұрын
7:10 what bit size did you use for the hole ?
@JimPudar3 ай бұрын
I believe it’s either a Fisch or a Freud forstner bit. I usually try to get the “wave” type, I find they work very well. I’m not positive what size it was - looks in the 1.25” range.
@ddhddhddh3 ай бұрын
You didn't have the right size drill bit, but you have Festool tools.🫵👎
@nooolongpants3 ай бұрын
Join the Delphi Dewalt radial arm saw forum (it's free). Lots of very knowledgeable people there to help whenever you need it and the FAQ's are great. You'll learn a lot and get better results with your cuts. You'll learn the proper way to set up your saw and it'll be a lot safer. Watching the video WOW there should not be all that movement. Join the forum you'll be glad you did.
@cynthiastandley57424 ай бұрын
At some point I shall make this. I need to build the table first. This Spring I think. I'm sure you have a real life, but more videos would be great!
@JimPudar4 ай бұрын
Good luck, I’m sure it will turn out great. There are another couple of videos in the works, stay tuned!
@Clydesdale20454 ай бұрын
Thank you! I'm doing this thank you! The only thing I could see to improve, is in your case the area behind the fence is the same height as the area in front of the fence I don't think most people do that. Now it's much less of an issue since you have a dust collector but you don't want a piece of wood or sawdust accumulating under the blade when you push it all the way back and shut the saw off. When you start it up, the sawdust/piece of wood can cause the blade to run/jump forward when you don't expect it to. If you have the top behind the fence lower than in front (1 layer instead of 2) it gives room under the blade when you push it all the way back so when you start it there's some room so it's less likely to potentially run.
@JimPudar4 ай бұрын
I’m not exactly sure what you’re describing here, but I’ve been using the saw like this for about a year now and have never had any sort of problem with wood or sawdust accumulating or the saw jumping forward on me. I’ve found as long as you keep one hand on the saw’s handle and the other out of the path of the blade, there’s very little risk when doing 90 degree cross cutting.
@texanleons5 ай бұрын
THat's a steal man.
@pnhnut5 ай бұрын
Brilliant!! Do you see any reason why I can't use this method with stained shellac? I am doing a large tongue and groove ceiling which will take me multiple days.
@JimPudar5 ай бұрын
Not at all! I just used some last night that had been in there for months without any issues. Shellac itself does have a limited shelf life but you aren’t going to see any major issues using this kind of technique.
@pnhnut5 ай бұрын
@@JimPudar thanks so much!
@reinaldoperdomo16387 ай бұрын
1:17 ❤
@xinixxagnix2018 ай бұрын
Hi Jim, i read your reply by P.Millard about the Parf mkII, can you do a tutorial the right/.best way to make a standard MFT :))
@JimPudar7 ай бұрын
Good idea! I need a better outfeed table / mft combo - I’ll try and make a video about that when I do it!
@xinixxagnix2017 ай бұрын
@@JimPudar Thnx Jim, look forward to it ..👌👍
@markhaas89388 ай бұрын
One "improvement" you can add to your table system is to add a 1/4" layer of plywood or hardboard as a consumable surface. That will preserve the integrity of the table over time. Another improvement might be to remake the table in the "Mr Sawdust" fashion. Brian Weekly has a set of youtubes which detail the process (including how to handle the back table sections' thickness).
@RealityChecker8648 ай бұрын
Hi Jim, I too must have watched about 30 or 40 videos of different dust collection ideas. I built a few, but was still not satisfied with the amount of dust still ending up in the air and on everything in my garage. Then I came across your video and figured I had nothing to lose. Sometimes, the most basic solution is the best solution. I'm very pleased with the results. Thanks for posting this video.
@StevenAbbott9 ай бұрын
Years ago I met a carpenter that was missing half his hand. (He was our union safety representative) He told me he was going to make a cut on an industrial radial arm saw that was cranked down with the blade in contact with the table. He had his hand on the table when he pressed the on button. The saw ran forward and cut off his hand
@JimPudar9 ай бұрын
Yeah these things are no joke, that’s for sure. I always make sure my other hand (and all other body parts) are well outside the path of the blade before I press the On button 😅
@mwrcrft9 ай бұрын
Thanks for putting your build on video and posting it here. I am building a 802 myself from Bob Lang's book on Craftsman furniture. ,and just poking around for inspiration.
@OpenBuilds10 ай бұрын
Looks amazing! Thanks for shaing
@robertpalmer316610 ай бұрын
I built something similar, but I added a flexible hose to the fitting on the front of the blade guard and ran it to another hole in the top of the shroud. Seems to make a difference.
@woodworksbygrampies128411 ай бұрын
👍
@paulbrum10111 ай бұрын
this also counts as "the goods"
@paulbrum10111 ай бұрын
Big Jim coming in with the goods!
@billmactiernan630411 ай бұрын
Very nice video. I'm sure that the saw will prove immensely useful in your shop.
@channelPITRE11 ай бұрын
Well done!
@flashgordon623811 ай бұрын
Maybe cap that dust ejection port on the blade guard?
@JimPudar11 ай бұрын
I’ve never seen a speck of dust fly out of there surprisingly!
@flashgordon623811 ай бұрын
I have the same model RAS. Love it! There are seven types of the model 790. Types 1-7 and then a metric version. Mine is a type 7. Do a search for Woodbutcher RAS forum if you want to get more info from some RAS fans. I have four radial saws so far, but I can stop acquiring them any time.......
@gerardbattersby9709 Жыл бұрын
I came into this video expecting to be sidebored, but I left very sideinterested.
@davelawler5353 Жыл бұрын
turned out great
@chaiborg733 Жыл бұрын
This is outstanding. Really incredible craftsmanship, thank you for documenting the process.
@Roy-ij1wq Жыл бұрын
Excellent video and editing. However, you made the job much harder than it needs to be. The best reference on the subject is Jon Eakes book "Fine Tuning a Radial Arm Saw" that is available as an ebook on his website. He discusses the differences between different manufactuers, but the process is identical for all and doesn't require special tools. You also skipped a few steps such as getting the play out of the column. One critical error I see is that you have too much play in the carriage bearings. When properly adjusted it should take 5-8 pounds of pull to move the carriage and motor. This is because the saw has a tendency to pull itself through a crosscut and can climb on top of the stock you are cutting. Also, the table mounting brackets on your saw are attached with square nuts that lay flat against the flange on the inside of the base to keep them from spinning. A crescent wrench on the flange side bolt will gently lift the flange for a perfect fit. I like to adjust the table flanges before installing the table and use a feeler gauge to get the four corners of the outside flanges co-planar. I then adjust the center support by putting a straight edge between the two sides. I then drill holes next to the bolts and bolt them in place to keep them moving if someone pound on the table. It is difficult to build a perfectly flat laminated table but you can make one flat by securely bolting it to the supports. You can also use T-nuts and/or bolts to raise or lower the center. The Craftsman RAS manual explains this process. And last, just because your saw will take a 12" blade doesn't mean that it should be your everyday blade. For best results, you should use the smallest blade you need to make the cut because smaller blades have more power - especially for ripping.. Often missing on the 790 is a bumper that mounts on the rear of the motor arbor. It prevents you from cutting into the column if you are making a bevel cut with a 12" blade. Also frequently missing is the anti-kickback pawl that is essential when ripping. Most users at the Delphi Dewalt Radial Arm Saw Forum find that the Freud LU83R010: 10" Thin Kerf Combination Blade is the best all around blade for daily use. Seeing the care that you put into tuning up your leads me to believe that you will become an enthusiast. Have fun using it.
@chrisdzisiak7540 Жыл бұрын
Good review , saved me the time to say the same thing. These saws are gems and finding them out there is such a great deal. Thank you for the video!
@JimPudar Жыл бұрын
Thanks for the tips! I’ll definitely mention some of these in the next RAS focused video. I did purchase a return reel which pulls the carriage back to the home position - I didn’t want to overload the bearings too much. I got them just tight enough that there is zero play, but no more. My saw did come with the anti kickback pawl, but I am not going to do any ripping with this guy so it will sit in the drawer. The bumper is also present (I think).
@FIGGY6511 ай бұрын
@@JimPudar. Simply it even further. Google the articles How to rebuild a Dewalt RAS , and How to Fine Tune a RAS, both by Roger A. Hill. His instructions are simple and pure. He also gives a recipe for building a “Frankensaw” which will blow your mind, if you’re inclined to own the finest/strongest budget saw available!
@user-oe8gj7fz6v Жыл бұрын
Congrats on the new saw. I have a 1963 craftsman with a 9 inch blade. I bought it cheap. I've used it for years. Not better than the new miter saws, but I'd say just as good and so much cheaper 👍. Well done video 👍
@petermarsh4993 Жыл бұрын
Dear Jim, welcome to the club of RAS owners. I did my first DADO stack cuts today - very satisfying. Cheers.
@c2gutbuster Жыл бұрын
I appreciate the fact that you do not add annoying background music. A low key voice over works very well. Thanks for sharing!
@KevinCoop1 Жыл бұрын
I use a black plastic dust collection part that came on a used Craftsman RAS. It is not as efficient as yours, but I get full use of the saws designed capabilities with it.
@Ritalie Жыл бұрын
I'm really curious about the comment you made about fixing the legs. I have the same dilemma, as I have the same saw, but a slightly different variation of it. A T1531 Black and Decker which is a 1969 model. The quality of the stand is just atrocious. It's designed ok, but the metal is about 50% too thin. I'd like to know what your solution is. I have been thinking about it for months now, and I thought about TIG welding some metal reinforcements around the bottom perimeter of the stand to hold the legs on much more securely.
@JimPudar Жыл бұрын
My plan at the moment is to make a whole bunch of Jer Schmidt's modular cabinets for my workshop and my electronics workbench - I am going to use a few of those to create a stand and a long support table to the left of the saw. My shop is set up for working with 8' long boards, so being able to cut 8' with a stop block on the left side of the saw is going to be awesome. I actually did screw the bottom of the legs into some 2x4s temporarily - that did improve the stability quite a bit. I bet if you TIG welded some cross bracing it would help a lot - if I was going to do that I'd probably go from the bottom of each foot to each other foot, and then do some diagonal X bracing across the back and sides. I'm sure if you did that, it would be more than good enough!
@Ritalie Жыл бұрын
The clips of Brian Weekley's setup is just out of control, the complexity of his dust system with little magnetic wood vent plugs, and furniture grade hardwood, just out of control. I start to feel like a failure comparing myself to some of these people on KZread, including your channel and your setup. Thank you for sharing the dust collection video. I used my saw this weekend and the sawdust was so bad that it has me rethinking woodworking as a hobby. I need to invest in some type of entry level dust vacuum or use my shop vac every time I make cuts. I did find that you can capture about 80% of the dust in a rip cut very easily, because the guard functions about 99% better for dust collection when doing a rip cut, because there is no gap for sawdust to escape, it goes straight into the guard and straight into the vacuum. From an engineering standpoint, using a radial arm saw for ripping is better than crosscutting in some ways, despite the public confusion about it. When ripping it's MUCH safer than a crosscut, the guard functions properly in a rip cut, the blade has no ability to climb towards you, and the dust collector port actually works in a rip cut. As well, there is no issue with inaccuracy in a rip cut, the carriage is tightened down against the cast iron arm with the lock screw, everything is fixed.
@brianweekley57009 ай бұрын
LOL! You think my dust control system is out of control? It was very well planned out and intended for all modes (not just crosscuts). I never viewed striving for craftsmanship and quality as being out of control!
@JimPudar9 ай бұрын
I for one was very impressed with your setup Brian! If I was intending to use my RAS for anything other than just crosscuts, I’d very likely copy your system outright. Love your videos!
@Ritalie Жыл бұрын
So jealous! A 790! I have never found one of those. Dang. I had to get a Black and Decker T1530 version of the 790, which was made in 1969 and it's not as cool because it's called a "Black and Decker" on the model tag. I've never had anyone to help me with anything, so I loaded mine up myself into my work van by taking it apart, and carrying the arm and motor separately. The only thing stopping me from setting it up is that it's so difficult to move once it's all assembled. P.S., don't make jokes about not being a machinist. You're the most meticulous person I've ever seen on KZread, and I've watched every radial arm saw video that exists on KZread. I've never heard of "Way Oil" before, or seen anyone make adjustment screws for the table. Nor have I heard of anyone actually replacing the carriage bearings or even make a mention about how smooth or coarse they are. As far as I can tell, the reason the Craftsman saws are inferior is only because of the VERY coarse sloppy bearings they use on the carriage, and not because they are a poor design (they are a good design overall).
@JimPudar Жыл бұрын
Thanks a lot for watching, glad you enjoyed this!
@starseeddeluxe3 ай бұрын
@@JimPudar Are you still using this 790 saw? I am still debating whether I should keep my version of the 12" saw with the 17 amp motor. I am actually really afraid of the 17 amp motor on a radial arm saw. I do daily ripping of boards, including old reclaimed hardwood boards, on my Dewalt 9" saws, and also a Craftsman 10 amp radial arm saw. With the small 10 amp saws, they stall when the blade binds, and they don't kickback the board. I'm extremely nervous about using a 17 amp motor, because it has no margin for error. Are you using the saw for daily shop functions, or is it more of a novelty item? The 12" saws are so big, I'm not sure that I am brave enough to use it.
@JimPudar3 ай бұрын
@@starseeddeluxe Yeah, I use this nearly every day. I wish it had more power - I stall it out every once in a while when cross cutting 12/4 stock, and it does take up a lot more space than a miter saw would, but it’s a very practical and not at all scary tool when you get used to it.
@mikecarter2116 Жыл бұрын
Nice work. Enjoyed your video. What book are you referencing in the video?
@JimPudar Жыл бұрын
Thanks! I am using Chris Schwarz's plans for the Stickley 802 Sideboard from "Classic American Furniture". You can find the same plans in the Summer 2009 issue of "Woodworking Magazine". I'm also referencing Lang's "Shop Drawings for Craftsman Furniture" which I believe is what Schwarz was referencing when he wrote the original article, but I don't remember where I learned that.
@foodparadise5792 Жыл бұрын
Seems impossible to buy a modern RAS these days in America.
@JimPudar Жыл бұрын
They are VERY expensive for sure, but if you really want a modern one check out Original Saw Company. In my opinion, you would be better served by a cheap old one like this or, for that kind of money, a modern table saw.
@foodparadise5792 Жыл бұрын
@@JimPudar Original saw just raised their price on their RAS. Last week 4999, now 5999 for the smaller woodworker model. Crazy these days. Only choice probably Maggi junior 640.
@brucewelty7684 Жыл бұрын
AHHH there was Mr Sawdust himself!
@brucewelty7684 Жыл бұрын
Get Wally Kunkel's book
@JimPudar Жыл бұрын
You may have noticed, he made a short appearance in my RAS dust collection video. :)
@brucewelty7684 Жыл бұрын
@@JimPudar ah, I am new to the channel and have not dived that deep yet.
@billymurphy3 Жыл бұрын
How far along are ya on that BASE cabinet?
@JimPudar Жыл бұрын
Still in the planning phase. Not sure exactly where I want to keep the saw in my shop. I’m thinking about getting a metal lathe so I’m trying to come up with a good layout.
@brucewelty7684 Жыл бұрын
@@JimPudar SketchUp!
@JimPudar Жыл бұрын
I am a long time Fusion 360 user and I’m currently migrating over to FreeCAD and OpenSCAD. I’m a software engineer by trade so I really love OpenSCAD
@HiFiTown Жыл бұрын
Nice work, subscribed! That was a wonderful looking countersink ... will look it up.
@JimPudar Жыл бұрын
Thanks for watching!
@landesnorm Жыл бұрын
Love the cat names, "miso" and "bonito." Makes me hungry. One of our cats was named "sushi boy" and the other's name was "nekko."
@JimPudar Жыл бұрын
Adorable! They are great cats. These days they go nuts for the little freeze dried shrimp
@cyberxxxaos Жыл бұрын
Beautiful, it came out nice. Where did you get the lighter? I’d like to make a humidor and lighter for my brother.
@JimPudar Жыл бұрын
Thanks! The lighter insert is made by Vector, model “TB INSERT 3T-03”.
@cyberxxxaos Жыл бұрын
@@JimPudar Thx. I’m browsing their website now.
@godu1111 Жыл бұрын
Nice work buddy
@Rubin5342 Жыл бұрын
Dam it, I have a RAS (Craftsman) but I want one of them engine hoists. I have a mini lathe and mini mill and that engine hoist would be great. //ji
@JimPudar Жыл бұрын
It’s a great help when the legs can fit under whatever you’re trying to lift, but more often than not I end up using blocks and a long metal lever. A gantry crane would be way better for the types of things I move a lot, but that takes up way more space. Matt on Next Level Carpentry has a great video about his “sky hook” which is another good option I’ve been meaning to try out.
@EvanDunville Жыл бұрын
I think i watched all the same RAS dust collection videos too! I made a simialr box that screwed onto the table i had for the saw. It worked pretty well.
@EvanDunville Жыл бұрын
Great Stuff, I have an older Dewalt 12" radial arm saw that i need to get adjusted similar to how you have done. Using the Dial indicator was a great idea!
@JimPudar Жыл бұрын
Thanks for watching! In practice I’ve found that it loses the “super tune” pretty quickly after making any rough cuts. I’ve been using it mostly to rip long stock to width, and then I make the precision cuts on my table saw with a sled. Maybe someday I’ll find an extremely beefy 16” model with the turret design; I think those hold their settings a bit more robustly.
@EvanDunville Жыл бұрын
@@JimPudar definitely, I have had the older all cast iron saws and I did have a 16" for a while but electrical issues kept me from being able to run the 16". I think at one time I owned 5 radial arm saws but now I just have one and 12" DeWalt sliding compound miter saw.
@Roy-ij1wq Жыл бұрын
@@JimPudar Jim - I don't think the problem is necessarily with the saw losing its tuning. All radial arm saws have multiple moving parts and need "end play" for the parts to move. But unlike many late model saws, your DeWalt is built with very close tolerances. Even so, you still need to account for end play when tuning your saw and setting up for a cut. The most common complaint new users have is that saw doesn't cut a consistent 90 degree crosscut. This is usually a combination of failure to take into account end play during the tuning process and while using the saw. The column may have play, the carriage bearings may be too loose, the motor may not be locked in place and the locking lever for the arm may be too loose. For example, the arm locking lever should be tight enough so that it doesn't fall down on its own. Once the lever is lowered, there may still be a slight amount of play. You eliminate this by applying slight pressure to the arm in one direction (most users apply pressure to the right) as you seat the lever in place. You need to follow a similar procedure when you lock the motor by pushing the locking pin down and applying slight pressure while locking the lever in place. I see that you didn't check the column for play in your video. It seldom develops slack but it still needs to be checked. If you follow the tuning procedure in Eakes' book, your saw is build to stay in allignment provided you follow a set procedure every time you move the arm or motor to a different position.
Пікірлер
Thank you
Had to learn the hard way that the limiting height for the collection box is the distance between the back table saw board and the bottom of the saw cover (will vary by the width of your back board). Which in my case was just under 4 inches. So, if your fence protrudes more than 4 inches and you make a box with 2-inch opening, by the time you add the Hight of the top cover for the box it’s too high and will catch and stop the saw from retracting to its back position.
They sell someting like that in Sweden (Ottoson Färgmakeri does to be precise). It's a glass with a cork with the brush handle sticking through it. Genious!
Great company. we have an original saw in our shop to cut aluminum
Hey Jim I found your channel through this video searching for information on radial arm saws. The project videos are cool but this one where you share knowledge and experimentation on a tool is the best. I’ll be picking up the 10in version of this saw tomorrow thanks to you👍
7:10 what bit size did you use for the hole ?
I believe it’s either a Fisch or a Freud forstner bit. I usually try to get the “wave” type, I find they work very well. I’m not positive what size it was - looks in the 1.25” range.
You didn't have the right size drill bit, but you have Festool tools.🫵👎
Join the Delphi Dewalt radial arm saw forum (it's free). Lots of very knowledgeable people there to help whenever you need it and the FAQ's are great. You'll learn a lot and get better results with your cuts. You'll learn the proper way to set up your saw and it'll be a lot safer. Watching the video WOW there should not be all that movement. Join the forum you'll be glad you did.
At some point I shall make this. I need to build the table first. This Spring I think. I'm sure you have a real life, but more videos would be great!
Good luck, I’m sure it will turn out great. There are another couple of videos in the works, stay tuned!
Thank you! I'm doing this thank you! The only thing I could see to improve, is in your case the area behind the fence is the same height as the area in front of the fence I don't think most people do that. Now it's much less of an issue since you have a dust collector but you don't want a piece of wood or sawdust accumulating under the blade when you push it all the way back and shut the saw off. When you start it up, the sawdust/piece of wood can cause the blade to run/jump forward when you don't expect it to. If you have the top behind the fence lower than in front (1 layer instead of 2) it gives room under the blade when you push it all the way back so when you start it there's some room so it's less likely to potentially run.
I’m not exactly sure what you’re describing here, but I’ve been using the saw like this for about a year now and have never had any sort of problem with wood or sawdust accumulating or the saw jumping forward on me. I’ve found as long as you keep one hand on the saw’s handle and the other out of the path of the blade, there’s very little risk when doing 90 degree cross cutting.
THat's a steal man.
Brilliant!! Do you see any reason why I can't use this method with stained shellac? I am doing a large tongue and groove ceiling which will take me multiple days.
Not at all! I just used some last night that had been in there for months without any issues. Shellac itself does have a limited shelf life but you aren’t going to see any major issues using this kind of technique.
@@JimPudar thanks so much!
1:17 ❤
Hi Jim, i read your reply by P.Millard about the Parf mkII, can you do a tutorial the right/.best way to make a standard MFT :))
Good idea! I need a better outfeed table / mft combo - I’ll try and make a video about that when I do it!
@@JimPudar Thnx Jim, look forward to it ..👌👍
One "improvement" you can add to your table system is to add a 1/4" layer of plywood or hardboard as a consumable surface. That will preserve the integrity of the table over time. Another improvement might be to remake the table in the "Mr Sawdust" fashion. Brian Weekly has a set of youtubes which detail the process (including how to handle the back table sections' thickness).
Hi Jim, I too must have watched about 30 or 40 videos of different dust collection ideas. I built a few, but was still not satisfied with the amount of dust still ending up in the air and on everything in my garage. Then I came across your video and figured I had nothing to lose. Sometimes, the most basic solution is the best solution. I'm very pleased with the results. Thanks for posting this video.
Years ago I met a carpenter that was missing half his hand. (He was our union safety representative) He told me he was going to make a cut on an industrial radial arm saw that was cranked down with the blade in contact with the table. He had his hand on the table when he pressed the on button. The saw ran forward and cut off his hand
Yeah these things are no joke, that’s for sure. I always make sure my other hand (and all other body parts) are well outside the path of the blade before I press the On button 😅
Thanks for putting your build on video and posting it here. I am building a 802 myself from Bob Lang's book on Craftsman furniture. ,and just poking around for inspiration.
Looks amazing! Thanks for shaing
I built something similar, but I added a flexible hose to the fitting on the front of the blade guard and ran it to another hole in the top of the shroud. Seems to make a difference.
👍
this also counts as "the goods"
Big Jim coming in with the goods!
Very nice video. I'm sure that the saw will prove immensely useful in your shop.
Well done!
Maybe cap that dust ejection port on the blade guard?
I’ve never seen a speck of dust fly out of there surprisingly!
I have the same model RAS. Love it! There are seven types of the model 790. Types 1-7 and then a metric version. Mine is a type 7. Do a search for Woodbutcher RAS forum if you want to get more info from some RAS fans. I have four radial saws so far, but I can stop acquiring them any time.......
I came into this video expecting to be sidebored, but I left very sideinterested.
turned out great
This is outstanding. Really incredible craftsmanship, thank you for documenting the process.
Excellent video and editing. However, you made the job much harder than it needs to be. The best reference on the subject is Jon Eakes book "Fine Tuning a Radial Arm Saw" that is available as an ebook on his website. He discusses the differences between different manufactuers, but the process is identical for all and doesn't require special tools. You also skipped a few steps such as getting the play out of the column. One critical error I see is that you have too much play in the carriage bearings. When properly adjusted it should take 5-8 pounds of pull to move the carriage and motor. This is because the saw has a tendency to pull itself through a crosscut and can climb on top of the stock you are cutting. Also, the table mounting brackets on your saw are attached with square nuts that lay flat against the flange on the inside of the base to keep them from spinning. A crescent wrench on the flange side bolt will gently lift the flange for a perfect fit. I like to adjust the table flanges before installing the table and use a feeler gauge to get the four corners of the outside flanges co-planar. I then adjust the center support by putting a straight edge between the two sides. I then drill holes next to the bolts and bolt them in place to keep them moving if someone pound on the table. It is difficult to build a perfectly flat laminated table but you can make one flat by securely bolting it to the supports. You can also use T-nuts and/or bolts to raise or lower the center. The Craftsman RAS manual explains this process. And last, just because your saw will take a 12" blade doesn't mean that it should be your everyday blade. For best results, you should use the smallest blade you need to make the cut because smaller blades have more power - especially for ripping.. Often missing on the 790 is a bumper that mounts on the rear of the motor arbor. It prevents you from cutting into the column if you are making a bevel cut with a 12" blade. Also frequently missing is the anti-kickback pawl that is essential when ripping. Most users at the Delphi Dewalt Radial Arm Saw Forum find that the Freud LU83R010: 10" Thin Kerf Combination Blade is the best all around blade for daily use. Seeing the care that you put into tuning up your leads me to believe that you will become an enthusiast. Have fun using it.
Good review , saved me the time to say the same thing. These saws are gems and finding them out there is such a great deal. Thank you for the video!
Thanks for the tips! I’ll definitely mention some of these in the next RAS focused video. I did purchase a return reel which pulls the carriage back to the home position - I didn’t want to overload the bearings too much. I got them just tight enough that there is zero play, but no more. My saw did come with the anti kickback pawl, but I am not going to do any ripping with this guy so it will sit in the drawer. The bumper is also present (I think).
@@JimPudar. Simply it even further. Google the articles How to rebuild a Dewalt RAS , and How to Fine Tune a RAS, both by Roger A. Hill. His instructions are simple and pure. He also gives a recipe for building a “Frankensaw” which will blow your mind, if you’re inclined to own the finest/strongest budget saw available!
Congrats on the new saw. I have a 1963 craftsman with a 9 inch blade. I bought it cheap. I've used it for years. Not better than the new miter saws, but I'd say just as good and so much cheaper 👍. Well done video 👍
Dear Jim, welcome to the club of RAS owners. I did my first DADO stack cuts today - very satisfying. Cheers.
I appreciate the fact that you do not add annoying background music. A low key voice over works very well. Thanks for sharing!
I use a black plastic dust collection part that came on a used Craftsman RAS. It is not as efficient as yours, but I get full use of the saws designed capabilities with it.
I'm really curious about the comment you made about fixing the legs. I have the same dilemma, as I have the same saw, but a slightly different variation of it. A T1531 Black and Decker which is a 1969 model. The quality of the stand is just atrocious. It's designed ok, but the metal is about 50% too thin. I'd like to know what your solution is. I have been thinking about it for months now, and I thought about TIG welding some metal reinforcements around the bottom perimeter of the stand to hold the legs on much more securely.
My plan at the moment is to make a whole bunch of Jer Schmidt's modular cabinets for my workshop and my electronics workbench - I am going to use a few of those to create a stand and a long support table to the left of the saw. My shop is set up for working with 8' long boards, so being able to cut 8' with a stop block on the left side of the saw is going to be awesome. I actually did screw the bottom of the legs into some 2x4s temporarily - that did improve the stability quite a bit. I bet if you TIG welded some cross bracing it would help a lot - if I was going to do that I'd probably go from the bottom of each foot to each other foot, and then do some diagonal X bracing across the back and sides. I'm sure if you did that, it would be more than good enough!
The clips of Brian Weekley's setup is just out of control, the complexity of his dust system with little magnetic wood vent plugs, and furniture grade hardwood, just out of control. I start to feel like a failure comparing myself to some of these people on KZread, including your channel and your setup. Thank you for sharing the dust collection video. I used my saw this weekend and the sawdust was so bad that it has me rethinking woodworking as a hobby. I need to invest in some type of entry level dust vacuum or use my shop vac every time I make cuts. I did find that you can capture about 80% of the dust in a rip cut very easily, because the guard functions about 99% better for dust collection when doing a rip cut, because there is no gap for sawdust to escape, it goes straight into the guard and straight into the vacuum. From an engineering standpoint, using a radial arm saw for ripping is better than crosscutting in some ways, despite the public confusion about it. When ripping it's MUCH safer than a crosscut, the guard functions properly in a rip cut, the blade has no ability to climb towards you, and the dust collector port actually works in a rip cut. As well, there is no issue with inaccuracy in a rip cut, the carriage is tightened down against the cast iron arm with the lock screw, everything is fixed.
LOL! You think my dust control system is out of control? It was very well planned out and intended for all modes (not just crosscuts). I never viewed striving for craftsmanship and quality as being out of control!
I for one was very impressed with your setup Brian! If I was intending to use my RAS for anything other than just crosscuts, I’d very likely copy your system outright. Love your videos!
So jealous! A 790! I have never found one of those. Dang. I had to get a Black and Decker T1530 version of the 790, which was made in 1969 and it's not as cool because it's called a "Black and Decker" on the model tag. I've never had anyone to help me with anything, so I loaded mine up myself into my work van by taking it apart, and carrying the arm and motor separately. The only thing stopping me from setting it up is that it's so difficult to move once it's all assembled. P.S., don't make jokes about not being a machinist. You're the most meticulous person I've ever seen on KZread, and I've watched every radial arm saw video that exists on KZread. I've never heard of "Way Oil" before, or seen anyone make adjustment screws for the table. Nor have I heard of anyone actually replacing the carriage bearings or even make a mention about how smooth or coarse they are. As far as I can tell, the reason the Craftsman saws are inferior is only because of the VERY coarse sloppy bearings they use on the carriage, and not because they are a poor design (they are a good design overall).
Thanks a lot for watching, glad you enjoyed this!
@@JimPudar Are you still using this 790 saw? I am still debating whether I should keep my version of the 12" saw with the 17 amp motor. I am actually really afraid of the 17 amp motor on a radial arm saw. I do daily ripping of boards, including old reclaimed hardwood boards, on my Dewalt 9" saws, and also a Craftsman 10 amp radial arm saw. With the small 10 amp saws, they stall when the blade binds, and they don't kickback the board. I'm extremely nervous about using a 17 amp motor, because it has no margin for error. Are you using the saw for daily shop functions, or is it more of a novelty item? The 12" saws are so big, I'm not sure that I am brave enough to use it.
@@starseeddeluxe Yeah, I use this nearly every day. I wish it had more power - I stall it out every once in a while when cross cutting 12/4 stock, and it does take up a lot more space than a miter saw would, but it’s a very practical and not at all scary tool when you get used to it.
Nice work. Enjoyed your video. What book are you referencing in the video?
Thanks! I am using Chris Schwarz's plans for the Stickley 802 Sideboard from "Classic American Furniture". You can find the same plans in the Summer 2009 issue of "Woodworking Magazine". I'm also referencing Lang's "Shop Drawings for Craftsman Furniture" which I believe is what Schwarz was referencing when he wrote the original article, but I don't remember where I learned that.
Seems impossible to buy a modern RAS these days in America.
They are VERY expensive for sure, but if you really want a modern one check out Original Saw Company. In my opinion, you would be better served by a cheap old one like this or, for that kind of money, a modern table saw.
@@JimPudar Original saw just raised their price on their RAS. Last week 4999, now 5999 for the smaller woodworker model. Crazy these days. Only choice probably Maggi junior 640.
AHHH there was Mr Sawdust himself!
Get Wally Kunkel's book
You may have noticed, he made a short appearance in my RAS dust collection video. :)
@@JimPudar ah, I am new to the channel and have not dived that deep yet.
How far along are ya on that BASE cabinet?
Still in the planning phase. Not sure exactly where I want to keep the saw in my shop. I’m thinking about getting a metal lathe so I’m trying to come up with a good layout.
@@JimPudar SketchUp!
I am a long time Fusion 360 user and I’m currently migrating over to FreeCAD and OpenSCAD. I’m a software engineer by trade so I really love OpenSCAD
Nice work, subscribed! That was a wonderful looking countersink ... will look it up.
Thanks for watching!
Love the cat names, "miso" and "bonito." Makes me hungry. One of our cats was named "sushi boy" and the other's name was "nekko."
Adorable! They are great cats. These days they go nuts for the little freeze dried shrimp
Beautiful, it came out nice. Where did you get the lighter? I’d like to make a humidor and lighter for my brother.
Thanks! The lighter insert is made by Vector, model “TB INSERT 3T-03”.
@@JimPudar Thx. I’m browsing their website now.
Nice work buddy
Dam it, I have a RAS (Craftsman) but I want one of them engine hoists. I have a mini lathe and mini mill and that engine hoist would be great. //ji
It’s a great help when the legs can fit under whatever you’re trying to lift, but more often than not I end up using blocks and a long metal lever. A gantry crane would be way better for the types of things I move a lot, but that takes up way more space. Matt on Next Level Carpentry has a great video about his “sky hook” which is another good option I’ve been meaning to try out.
I think i watched all the same RAS dust collection videos too! I made a simialr box that screwed onto the table i had for the saw. It worked pretty well.
Great Stuff, I have an older Dewalt 12" radial arm saw that i need to get adjusted similar to how you have done. Using the Dial indicator was a great idea!
Thanks for watching! In practice I’ve found that it loses the “super tune” pretty quickly after making any rough cuts. I’ve been using it mostly to rip long stock to width, and then I make the precision cuts on my table saw with a sled. Maybe someday I’ll find an extremely beefy 16” model with the turret design; I think those hold their settings a bit more robustly.
@@JimPudar definitely, I have had the older all cast iron saws and I did have a 16" for a while but electrical issues kept me from being able to run the 16". I think at one time I owned 5 radial arm saws but now I just have one and 12" DeWalt sliding compound miter saw.
@@JimPudar Jim - I don't think the problem is necessarily with the saw losing its tuning. All radial arm saws have multiple moving parts and need "end play" for the parts to move. But unlike many late model saws, your DeWalt is built with very close tolerances. Even so, you still need to account for end play when tuning your saw and setting up for a cut. The most common complaint new users have is that saw doesn't cut a consistent 90 degree crosscut. This is usually a combination of failure to take into account end play during the tuning process and while using the saw. The column may have play, the carriage bearings may be too loose, the motor may not be locked in place and the locking lever for the arm may be too loose. For example, the arm locking lever should be tight enough so that it doesn't fall down on its own. Once the lever is lowered, there may still be a slight amount of play. You eliminate this by applying slight pressure to the arm in one direction (most users apply pressure to the right) as you seat the lever in place. You need to follow a similar procedure when you lock the motor by pushing the locking pin down and applying slight pressure while locking the lever in place. I see that you didn't check the column for play in your video. It seldom develops slack but it still needs to be checked. If you follow the tuning procedure in Eakes' book, your saw is build to stay in allignment provided you follow a set procedure every time you move the arm or motor to a different position.