I have one of these still installed in my house, not in use of course, and natural gas fired. I was just preparing to cut it out and get rid of it and all the old pipe to it.
@chechodallas4 жыл бұрын
Thanks a lot for the info.
@Mattstafford20094 жыл бұрын
So many amateur videos on KZread these days from amateur contractors, but Jim is not one of them! HE KNOWS HIS STUFF!!!!!!
@oseanpower4 жыл бұрын
You the man! I’ve been questioning installation in my attic to exit my roof and watching tons of videos but you convinced me to vent out a side wall with confidence. Thank you
@Elementaldomain4 жыл бұрын
Thank you, you made it easy to understand the proper way to install it.
@randyjerrett30624 жыл бұрын
Really good information! !!! Thanks
@howtodoitdude16625 жыл бұрын
Great video, thanks for sharing!
@Biffer19675 жыл бұрын
Good stuff, Jim. Many thanks!
@LuisMartinez-gu9tv5 жыл бұрын
Great explanation is the best video ever
@Stormy_Dawn5 жыл бұрын
One of the first videos that actually discussed what it says it's about. Love this!
@billwells98915 жыл бұрын
Why;d I have to go thru so many videos b4 I found this one? Excellent! How high of a vent riser can I put on the unit B4 going out of the wall? I have a 2 story in the snow and was thinking about venting under the eaves. Also, I'm on a well and incoming water is very cold. Is the a way of pre-heating the water? Thanks!
@EZTANKLESS5 жыл бұрын
Hello Mr. Wells, Thank you for the kind compliments. The problem with going straight up with the concentric pipe before the 94° elbow is that condensate drips back into the heater and corrodes the internal components and is the simple reason why this should not be done. After the elbow, the stainless steel pipe slopes at as slight down-angle and condensate drips outside at the exhaust exit point. When you explore your local and/or state and Federal "code" you will find that venting under the eave is almost always prohibited because of the potential of entry of carbon monoxide into the home through the eave vents. The difference between ground water temperature and the exiting hot water temperature is called "rise" and this number is usually a fact of geography. Northern users and those with very deep wells have much colder water and need higher levels of rise than Southern users due to the differences in these ground water temperatures. The larger the rise factor, the lower the GPM (gallons per minute) any tankless heater will produce. If you have very low ground water temperatures, it is best to purchase a heater with a higher GPM rating to overcome this temperature difference. There are some ways to preheat incoming water. For example, with the incoming water supply passing through coils wrapped around the exterior of the sanitary drain pipes or passing along a heating duct etc. There are videos and users on KZread who show their "MacGyver" type devices to do this preheating of the water supply. Sincere thanks for your interest in our products. Jim
@moinature8035 жыл бұрын
I want to install one of these units in my crawl space which does not have that much height . Is it possible to install the tankless unit horizontally with the exhaust vent also running out of the unit horizontally and out the wall?
@EZTANKLESS5 жыл бұрын
Hello, These do not work in any position other than upright for a number of reasons. Primarily, the heater must be "upright" as by design, the fire is "under" the heat exchanger that has the water running through it. This heat from the fire must rise through the heat exchanger to heat this water that is inside the heat exchanger. As "heat rises" (it does not go sideways) your idea is impossible. Thank you for your interest. Regards
@quintinlindsey79676 жыл бұрын
Thank you so much for this video, I have a customer that is having this very issue with pressure and in twenty years of plumbing I have never worked on a well system with a tankless heater, I now know how to fix his issue so thank you very much for this very informative video! Nice work by the way!!!
@DandyDon16 жыл бұрын
I know this was posted several years ago. I am curious to know if White Gasoline was used similar to that used in other later Coleman products such as lanterns, heaters and camping stoves. I suspect automobile leaded gasoline would be too dirty to use with this.
@chuckschillingvideos6 жыл бұрын
Why on EARTH is it a bad thing to draw intake air from inside the home? I keep seeing this repeated but it makes zero sense to me. Do you really think the air consumption of a tankless water heater is going to starve your home of fresh air? This seems utterly ridiculous to me.
@EZTANKLESS6 жыл бұрын
Simply because there are codes regarding room size versus BTU on gas-fired devices. Tankless heaters often have very high BTU ratings. To meet code, our smallest "room air combustion camping and cabin" model must be in a room the size of a two car garage with no closable doors. in a super-tight dwelling, a furnace and any other gas-fired device should never fight each other for combustion air as the more powerful one can reverse-flow the exhaust causing freeze damage and/or the risk of carbon monoxide poisoning. it has nothing to do with starving your home of air, therefore, it is not utterly ridiculous.
@thespanior84366 жыл бұрын
hey Jim, could I install the exhaust to my existing chimney and the intake thru the wall...? so I don't have to cut two holes...?
@EZTANKLESS6 жыл бұрын
Hi, With concentric pipe, the answer is always no. There are redundant saftey devices built-in that understand imbalance in most units. All brands must have intake and exhaust configurations that are within the manufacturer's specifications. Best regards, Jim
@djt57826 жыл бұрын
This is the absolute best video on tank-less LPG water heaters. Thank you very much...
@JasonFuller6 жыл бұрын
I can't vent directly out of though my side wall due to property distance regulations (can intake though). Could I just go out the sidewall, up the exterior of the house and then to the roof? or must vertical venting be mostly plumbed inside of the house?
@EZTANKLESS6 жыл бұрын
Hello, The reason you cannot vent vertically is that the exhaust must run slightly downhill to drain condensate that accumulates inside the pipes; The Concentric pipe vented EZtankless heaters cannot be vented vertically. This is explained on our website and in other videos that are specific for each product. Thank you for your interest.
@vincentrusso27696 жыл бұрын
I am going to buy this same exact unit very soon (Probably next week from Home Depot). My water heater is about to fail. This model had the best reviews and it comes with the flue vent.. The water connections on the bottom are both 1/2 in. pipe thread. The service valves are 3/4 in female pipe thread. You will need 2 brass bushings 3/4 MIP x 1/2 FIP in order to hook up your service valves to the unit. The gas input is 3/4 in. pipe thread. My house has 1/2 in. galvanized pipe thread. I will need to go from 1/2 MIP x 3/4 FIP brass bushing. I also plan on using a sediment filter on the supply side only to filter my hard water. This will help reduce the sediment that comes in contact with the heating element inside the heater. Hopefully this will make the heater last longer. I am going to use 3/4 in. SCH 40 PVC for the supply and 3/4 in. copper for the hot. I am replacing a 40 gal natural gas water heater in the garage. It never gets below freezing where I live.
@markbrinton67906 жыл бұрын
Very helpful. Exactly what I was looking for. Thank you sir!
@robwilson73806 жыл бұрын
helpfull video!!
@BoulderCreekSteve7 жыл бұрын
Can you make a recommendation to me. I am converting the electric water heater on the hot dog cart I purchased to a propane tankless. Most others install on the outside of the cart, but the WH they use do not appear waterproof. Can you recommend one that would be waterproof? Or else placing it in a cabinet, how can I vent one of these small WH's? Thanks, Steve
@EZTANKLESS7 жыл бұрын
Hi Steve, The reasons they mount them on the outside of the food trailers usually relate to rules of gas-fired appliances. Typically the "code" states that you need 30 cubic feet of room (with no closable doors) for each 1,000 BTU of these devices. If you have a code inspection, an indoor mounted one will likely fail inspection for that reason. If you were to buy a "direct vent" model you could mount it inside as they do not use "room air" for combustion as the intake air supply is drawn-in from outside through the external eccentric pipe. thank you for watching. Jim
@kdlittlehawk7 жыл бұрын
can I use this vent assembly to vent the 101?
@EZTANKLESS7 жыл бұрын
Hi, No, this direct vent concentric exhaust will not work as the 101 is not direct vent design. I see you have additional questions, please contact our company directly. You can find our contact information on our website www.EZtankless.com Regards, Jim
@calthomas997 жыл бұрын
I was impressed. This was thoughtfull and had a lot of important information. Thank you very much
@roxannecarr83557 жыл бұрын
I am considering a tankless heater, but I was worrying about sediment. We live on spring water and have to worry about heavy sediment. Because of this reason, I have to clean-out the tank on the back of my toilet every couple of months because of the mud and muck. We will not drink it until I can come up with a whole-house filtration system. Thank you for the information.
@heela1887 жыл бұрын
Excellent insights and deep review of technical aspects. Thank you!
@christofer1287 жыл бұрын
Can the water input of this heater come from a water boiler that heats up from solar panels? When the day is sunny and the solar panels heat up the water tank then the gas heater will receive hot water as an input, means is not necessary to start boiling water if the incoming temperature is high....if the solar panels didn't heat up the water tank then the Gas Tankless Water Heater takes over....In theory it sounds like it works but my worries are if the Gas Heater will overheat the water if the inlet is already partially hot.Anyone?
@EZTANKLESS7 жыл бұрын
Hello, It depends upon the type of tankless heater. Your concept is very energy conservative, and indeed people do this. With any "smart" tankless heater, the desired water temperature is entered into the control panel. There are intake and exit water temperature sensors that the computer uses to regulate the fire and air in the firebox. This process regulates the exit temperature of the water to make it consistent. If the water coming into the heater is almost as hot as the desired temperature setting on the control board, the heater will either not run or it will run in a very relaxed mode. (If very hot water was introduced into the heater, it is conceivable that it may be possible to damage small components on the water inlet side of the heater as they are not designed for high temperature water. And it makes no sense to introduce water into a heater that is hotter than the desired exit temperature. If this were the case, there would be no need to have a heater. But yes, you have valid points. Perhaps with your idea, it would be wise to have a way to use your solar-heated water directly, or if need be, set-up the system so that you could open a valve to divert the water through the heater to raise the temperature as desired.) The difference between intake temperature and exit temperature of the water is called "rise" - The less rise, the higher the GPM (gallons per minute) that the heater can produce. thank you for watching our videos.
@tanklesswaterheateraurora69357 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the tips you have contributed here.
@marvincavender14658 жыл бұрын
Very good advice, very well said thank you
@readytemp358 жыл бұрын
Nice setup...
@nomo91638 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the advise!
@christopherricci40138 жыл бұрын
Ok cool now one more technical question these heater units say about 2.6 gpm If I have a 4 or 5 gpm power washer will this supply the unit with incoming water fast enough? Just dont want to burn up my unit but I love your guys concept! Thanks for the quick response!
@EZTANKLESS8 жыл бұрын
+Christopher Ricci Hello Christopher, No, it will not supply enough hot water. You must match the heater GPM specifications to your pressure washer. In this video, we are using a smaller pressure washer. Of course, "hot" water is relative to your ground water temperature and how hot you want your pressure washer temperature. Remember, all tankless heaters are rated by GPM and "rise" combinations. the actual GPM of any tankless heater depends upon these two factors. incoming water temperature and your desired exit temperature. (the difference between these two water temperatures is called "rise) All tankless water heaters lose GPMs when you raise the "rise" factor. For example; People in Florida who have almost 70° ground water temperature get much higher GPM and/or hotter water than those who live in Minnesota and have a 40° ground water temperature as there is 30 degrees of incoming water temperature difference right there. Regardless of the brand, tankless heaters GPM and rise statistics are related to several factors, incoming ground water temperature being one of the most important.
@christopherricci40138 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the reply im in northwest Ohio so seems like it would take quite awhile to gain that desired gpm needed which is around 6 I will be using it to clean shingles and portable hot water is hard to set up but I am still very impressed if you have any recommendations as to what might work let me know if not thanks for the advice anyways
@christopherricci40138 жыл бұрын
please make a video using with a power washer :)
@EZTANKLESS8 жыл бұрын
+Christopher Ricci We did... kzread.info/dash/bejne/hp2txNKoqsjZg7A.html
@tinyadventure80368 жыл бұрын
Outstanding video! This is the clearest and most concise explanation of tank-less water heater venting that I've seen so far. Thank you!
@glennrightsell18 жыл бұрын
Very Interesting that this was Gas powered heater.I have recently acquired one about the same size that is natural gas powered,made by ELM products.Mine is a Crescent Model 3DM.I cant find any information on mine ?Thanks for sharing with your video
@HomePerformance8 жыл бұрын
Great explanation, Jim! Thanks for taking the time.
@jcal7779 жыл бұрын
Jim - great video. . Is it "normal" for exhaust to occasionally have a gas smell?
@EZTANKLESS9 жыл бұрын
Jon Callaghan Hello Jon, No, it is not normal for a gas smell and in fact this could be potentially dangerous. There are redundant safety features on all brands and models of heaters to prevent gas build-up without ignition. If you smell gas, you should be looking very closely most likely at your gas connections to your heater. A leak in your supply line is very dangerous as it is not within any heater's safety features' ability to control. If not the connections, you could perhaps have some type of leak related to the gas solenoid valves but this is extremely rare.
@miacolare9 жыл бұрын
You are the boss!!! I love how you explain!!! Thank you!
@Garagecouchofjohnnyyz9 жыл бұрын
Awesome video, if your not a tech school teacher you should be. What about electric tankless?
@shellyswan149 жыл бұрын
Great advice, thank you!
@jeffc603810 жыл бұрын
well explain thanks
@albertosipuma992010 жыл бұрын
Como instalar los de doble pipe vent
@grahammcdonald10 жыл бұрын
Clear and useful, thanks!
@rpetronk10 жыл бұрын
very good video and explanation on how it works!
@survidmt10 жыл бұрын
Jim, your so right, I removed a conventional 30 gal. tank from an older home I bought. It had virtually zero volume left, when I drained it to take it out, got less than 5 gallons. It was so heavy I could hardly lift it, mostly rolled it. If codes didn't prevent me, I would have tankless now, I used them in Korea and their great, endless hot water and no wasted energy. Keep up the great videos, Thanks.
@gonavy560710 жыл бұрын
I love the cat at 1:30.
@SabraStiehl10 жыл бұрын
Jim, I've seen many videos on many subjects online, and after seeing only this one I'm convinced that yours are the absolute best. And I'm not trying to play to your ego. I'm instead trying to let you know that some of us recognize your knowledge, intellect, and expertise. Thanks for your efforts.
@EZTANKLESS11 жыл бұрын
Because of condensation draining backwards into the heater and corroding the internals. Direct vent condensation is acidic. Most manufacturers now recommend the 94° elbow direct outside wall exit. They're most efficient this way, breath easier which translates to maximum BTU and this method doesn't require a complicated condensation separation, trap and draining device. It just so happens that our company was one of the very first to do this, now most do it this way. Thank you for watching.
Пікірлер
I have one of these still installed in my house, not in use of course, and natural gas fired. I was just preparing to cut it out and get rid of it and all the old pipe to it.
Thanks a lot for the info.
So many amateur videos on KZread these days from amateur contractors, but Jim is not one of them! HE KNOWS HIS STUFF!!!!!!
You the man! I’ve been questioning installation in my attic to exit my roof and watching tons of videos but you convinced me to vent out a side wall with confidence. Thank you
Thank you, you made it easy to understand the proper way to install it.
Really good information! !!! Thanks
Great video, thanks for sharing!
Good stuff, Jim. Many thanks!
Great explanation is the best video ever
One of the first videos that actually discussed what it says it's about. Love this!
Why;d I have to go thru so many videos b4 I found this one? Excellent! How high of a vent riser can I put on the unit B4 going out of the wall? I have a 2 story in the snow and was thinking about venting under the eaves. Also, I'm on a well and incoming water is very cold. Is the a way of pre-heating the water? Thanks!
Hello Mr. Wells, Thank you for the kind compliments. The problem with going straight up with the concentric pipe before the 94° elbow is that condensate drips back into the heater and corrodes the internal components and is the simple reason why this should not be done. After the elbow, the stainless steel pipe slopes at as slight down-angle and condensate drips outside at the exhaust exit point. When you explore your local and/or state and Federal "code" you will find that venting under the eave is almost always prohibited because of the potential of entry of carbon monoxide into the home through the eave vents. The difference between ground water temperature and the exiting hot water temperature is called "rise" and this number is usually a fact of geography. Northern users and those with very deep wells have much colder water and need higher levels of rise than Southern users due to the differences in these ground water temperatures. The larger the rise factor, the lower the GPM (gallons per minute) any tankless heater will produce. If you have very low ground water temperatures, it is best to purchase a heater with a higher GPM rating to overcome this temperature difference. There are some ways to preheat incoming water. For example, with the incoming water supply passing through coils wrapped around the exterior of the sanitary drain pipes or passing along a heating duct etc. There are videos and users on KZread who show their "MacGyver" type devices to do this preheating of the water supply. Sincere thanks for your interest in our products. Jim
I want to install one of these units in my crawl space which does not have that much height . Is it possible to install the tankless unit horizontally with the exhaust vent also running out of the unit horizontally and out the wall?
Hello, These do not work in any position other than upright for a number of reasons. Primarily, the heater must be "upright" as by design, the fire is "under" the heat exchanger that has the water running through it. This heat from the fire must rise through the heat exchanger to heat this water that is inside the heat exchanger. As "heat rises" (it does not go sideways) your idea is impossible. Thank you for your interest. Regards
Thank you so much for this video, I have a customer that is having this very issue with pressure and in twenty years of plumbing I have never worked on a well system with a tankless heater, I now know how to fix his issue so thank you very much for this very informative video! Nice work by the way!!!
I know this was posted several years ago. I am curious to know if White Gasoline was used similar to that used in other later Coleman products such as lanterns, heaters and camping stoves. I suspect automobile leaded gasoline would be too dirty to use with this.
Why on EARTH is it a bad thing to draw intake air from inside the home? I keep seeing this repeated but it makes zero sense to me. Do you really think the air consumption of a tankless water heater is going to starve your home of fresh air? This seems utterly ridiculous to me.
Simply because there are codes regarding room size versus BTU on gas-fired devices. Tankless heaters often have very high BTU ratings. To meet code, our smallest "room air combustion camping and cabin" model must be in a room the size of a two car garage with no closable doors. in a super-tight dwelling, a furnace and any other gas-fired device should never fight each other for combustion air as the more powerful one can reverse-flow the exhaust causing freeze damage and/or the risk of carbon monoxide poisoning. it has nothing to do with starving your home of air, therefore, it is not utterly ridiculous.
hey Jim, could I install the exhaust to my existing chimney and the intake thru the wall...? so I don't have to cut two holes...?
Hi, With concentric pipe, the answer is always no. There are redundant saftey devices built-in that understand imbalance in most units. All brands must have intake and exhaust configurations that are within the manufacturer's specifications. Best regards, Jim
This is the absolute best video on tank-less LPG water heaters. Thank you very much...
I can't vent directly out of though my side wall due to property distance regulations (can intake though). Could I just go out the sidewall, up the exterior of the house and then to the roof? or must vertical venting be mostly plumbed inside of the house?
Hello, The reason you cannot vent vertically is that the exhaust must run slightly downhill to drain condensate that accumulates inside the pipes; The Concentric pipe vented EZtankless heaters cannot be vented vertically. This is explained on our website and in other videos that are specific for each product. Thank you for your interest.
I am going to buy this same exact unit very soon (Probably next week from Home Depot). My water heater is about to fail. This model had the best reviews and it comes with the flue vent.. The water connections on the bottom are both 1/2 in. pipe thread. The service valves are 3/4 in female pipe thread. You will need 2 brass bushings 3/4 MIP x 1/2 FIP in order to hook up your service valves to the unit. The gas input is 3/4 in. pipe thread. My house has 1/2 in. galvanized pipe thread. I will need to go from 1/2 MIP x 3/4 FIP brass bushing. I also plan on using a sediment filter on the supply side only to filter my hard water. This will help reduce the sediment that comes in contact with the heating element inside the heater. Hopefully this will make the heater last longer. I am going to use 3/4 in. SCH 40 PVC for the supply and 3/4 in. copper for the hot. I am replacing a 40 gal natural gas water heater in the garage. It never gets below freezing where I live.
Very helpful. Exactly what I was looking for. Thank you sir!
helpfull video!!
Can you make a recommendation to me. I am converting the electric water heater on the hot dog cart I purchased to a propane tankless. Most others install on the outside of the cart, but the WH they use do not appear waterproof. Can you recommend one that would be waterproof? Or else placing it in a cabinet, how can I vent one of these small WH's? Thanks, Steve
Hi Steve, The reasons they mount them on the outside of the food trailers usually relate to rules of gas-fired appliances. Typically the "code" states that you need 30 cubic feet of room (with no closable doors) for each 1,000 BTU of these devices. If you have a code inspection, an indoor mounted one will likely fail inspection for that reason. If you were to buy a "direct vent" model you could mount it inside as they do not use "room air" for combustion as the intake air supply is drawn-in from outside through the external eccentric pipe. thank you for watching. Jim
can I use this vent assembly to vent the 101?
Hi, No, this direct vent concentric exhaust will not work as the 101 is not direct vent design. I see you have additional questions, please contact our company directly. You can find our contact information on our website www.EZtankless.com Regards, Jim
I was impressed. This was thoughtfull and had a lot of important information. Thank you very much
I am considering a tankless heater, but I was worrying about sediment. We live on spring water and have to worry about heavy sediment. Because of this reason, I have to clean-out the tank on the back of my toilet every couple of months because of the mud and muck. We will not drink it until I can come up with a whole-house filtration system. Thank you for the information.
Excellent insights and deep review of technical aspects. Thank you!
Can the water input of this heater come from a water boiler that heats up from solar panels? When the day is sunny and the solar panels heat up the water tank then the gas heater will receive hot water as an input, means is not necessary to start boiling water if the incoming temperature is high....if the solar panels didn't heat up the water tank then the Gas Tankless Water Heater takes over....In theory it sounds like it works but my worries are if the Gas Heater will overheat the water if the inlet is already partially hot.Anyone?
Hello, It depends upon the type of tankless heater. Your concept is very energy conservative, and indeed people do this. With any "smart" tankless heater, the desired water temperature is entered into the control panel. There are intake and exit water temperature sensors that the computer uses to regulate the fire and air in the firebox. This process regulates the exit temperature of the water to make it consistent. If the water coming into the heater is almost as hot as the desired temperature setting on the control board, the heater will either not run or it will run in a very relaxed mode. (If very hot water was introduced into the heater, it is conceivable that it may be possible to damage small components on the water inlet side of the heater as they are not designed for high temperature water. And it makes no sense to introduce water into a heater that is hotter than the desired exit temperature. If this were the case, there would be no need to have a heater. But yes, you have valid points. Perhaps with your idea, it would be wise to have a way to use your solar-heated water directly, or if need be, set-up the system so that you could open a valve to divert the water through the heater to raise the temperature as desired.) The difference between intake temperature and exit temperature of the water is called "rise" - The less rise, the higher the GPM (gallons per minute) that the heater can produce. thank you for watching our videos.
Thanks for the tips you have contributed here.
Very good advice, very well said thank you
Nice setup...
Thanks for the advise!
Ok cool now one more technical question these heater units say about 2.6 gpm If I have a 4 or 5 gpm power washer will this supply the unit with incoming water fast enough? Just dont want to burn up my unit but I love your guys concept! Thanks for the quick response!
+Christopher Ricci Hello Christopher, No, it will not supply enough hot water. You must match the heater GPM specifications to your pressure washer. In this video, we are using a smaller pressure washer. Of course, "hot" water is relative to your ground water temperature and how hot you want your pressure washer temperature. Remember, all tankless heaters are rated by GPM and "rise" combinations. the actual GPM of any tankless heater depends upon these two factors. incoming water temperature and your desired exit temperature. (the difference between these two water temperatures is called "rise) All tankless water heaters lose GPMs when you raise the "rise" factor. For example; People in Florida who have almost 70° ground water temperature get much higher GPM and/or hotter water than those who live in Minnesota and have a 40° ground water temperature as there is 30 degrees of incoming water temperature difference right there. Regardless of the brand, tankless heaters GPM and rise statistics are related to several factors, incoming ground water temperature being one of the most important.
Thanks for the reply im in northwest Ohio so seems like it would take quite awhile to gain that desired gpm needed which is around 6 I will be using it to clean shingles and portable hot water is hard to set up but I am still very impressed if you have any recommendations as to what might work let me know if not thanks for the advice anyways
please make a video using with a power washer :)
+Christopher Ricci We did... kzread.info/dash/bejne/hp2txNKoqsjZg7A.html
Outstanding video! This is the clearest and most concise explanation of tank-less water heater venting that I've seen so far. Thank you!
Very Interesting that this was Gas powered heater.I have recently acquired one about the same size that is natural gas powered,made by ELM products.Mine is a Crescent Model 3DM.I cant find any information on mine ?Thanks for sharing with your video
Great explanation, Jim! Thanks for taking the time.
Jim - great video. . Is it "normal" for exhaust to occasionally have a gas smell?
Jon Callaghan Hello Jon, No, it is not normal for a gas smell and in fact this could be potentially dangerous. There are redundant safety features on all brands and models of heaters to prevent gas build-up without ignition. If you smell gas, you should be looking very closely most likely at your gas connections to your heater. A leak in your supply line is very dangerous as it is not within any heater's safety features' ability to control. If not the connections, you could perhaps have some type of leak related to the gas solenoid valves but this is extremely rare.
You are the boss!!! I love how you explain!!! Thank you!
Awesome video, if your not a tech school teacher you should be. What about electric tankless?
Great advice, thank you!
well explain thanks
Como instalar los de doble pipe vent
Clear and useful, thanks!
very good video and explanation on how it works!
Jim, your so right, I removed a conventional 30 gal. tank from an older home I bought. It had virtually zero volume left, when I drained it to take it out, got less than 5 gallons. It was so heavy I could hardly lift it, mostly rolled it. If codes didn't prevent me, I would have tankless now, I used them in Korea and their great, endless hot water and no wasted energy. Keep up the great videos, Thanks.
I love the cat at 1:30.
Jim, I've seen many videos on many subjects online, and after seeing only this one I'm convinced that yours are the absolute best. And I'm not trying to play to your ego. I'm instead trying to let you know that some of us recognize your knowledge, intellect, and expertise. Thanks for your efforts.
Because of condensation draining backwards into the heater and corroding the internals. Direct vent condensation is acidic. Most manufacturers now recommend the 94° elbow direct outside wall exit. They're most efficient this way, breath easier which translates to maximum BTU and this method doesn't require a complicated condensation separation, trap and draining device. It just so happens that our company was one of the very first to do this, now most do it this way. Thank you for watching.