Im a freelance landscape photographer who also likes to process his photos. On my channel I show you tutorials about some of my post processing techniques and from time to time I take you behind the scenes of my landscape photography shoots. I'm constantly trying to improve, so I hope my tutorials will get better and better with time.
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Hi! Great information I subbed! You mention vignetting when using 15mm and stacking filters, what does the vignetting look like and cant it just be corrected in a photo editor? I honestly would prefer to leave the Kase filter adapter on the 15-35mm so I was considering the 82mm lens but I'm concerned now.
Before printing should I save the picture in the icc color profile or what? I don’t understand the next step when the soft proof is done
-> www.mibreit-photo.com/tutorials/how-to-print-photos.html#converting-the-color-space The ICC you use during soft proofing is just for simulating colors and paper and for adjusting the image to compensate for it. You still remain in your editing color space - ProPhoto or AdobeRGB - at this stage. At the end, you convert the color space to what your printer / lab can handle. I describe the considerations in the article I link above.
I have a sub-chapter "Color Space Considerations" here -> www.mibreit-photo.com/tutorials/how-to-print-photos.html#preparing-your-master-files
@@mibreit-photounderstand all now thanks
about this small border on the print: assume I order a 40x60 print - do you order 42x62 from Whitewall to get that 1cm? Or is the printed area reduced to 38x58cm instead? The latter would mean that you have to have a slightly bigger passepartout, like 5.5cm borders at least, for a 70x50cm frame, correct?
@@RonK the Border is added on top. So I first set my print size, e.g. 60x40. Then I select the Border which will be added on top, making the whole paper 62x42 with 1cm border
Passepartout is 70x50 outer side, 60x40 inner. The white border of the Print gets hidden and serves to hold Print in place
@@mibreit-photo Thanks a lot for the quick response !
Nice review, thanks!
But how do you know the calibrator meter itself is also calibrated?
@@andynonimuss6298 that is why at the end you should also Check against some reference prints. But the Brand I use makes good colorimeters.
I don’t see the point in using expensive fine art papers with fine textures and then covering that paper with some glass. I always mount my framed pictures without any glas.
@@NDakota79 depends on environment. Moisture, fly shit, dust,.. all easier to remove from glass. And if you use HQ glass, no harm to Image quality.
Excellent! Your video had great information for photography in Sa Pa. I am hooked, and subscribed. Thank you!
I didn’t even know my camera had this function, now I’m very excited cheers man
Amazing.
thank you
Thank you for this video. It solved my problem and gave my timelapse a great look. 🙂
20% errors. I need a new Radeon better than 6700 card. Is your graficscard up te date?????
Latest drivers, GeForce RTX 3050ti. It's an XPS Laptop.
I dont have Problems with any other Software;-)
This would be very helpful if I was as advanced as you. I gave up.
yeah but what do you do in the end? just merg all the proof layers in cmyk file and call it a day?
For Photo prints, most labs Take Adobe RGB or sRGB - www.mibreit-photo.com/tutorials/how-to-print-photos.html#converting-the-color-space
Yes it is. Been using it since the first iteration. Excellent plugin and superior IMO to anything else I've tried.
You know who recommends UV/protection filters? The people who sell them, including this person.
Whos this Person? I dont sell em
What focal length did you use for these photos?
I shot them with a 16-35 lens, mostly to the wide end.
@@mibreit-photo Thank you! Nice shots.
Magic Lattern for Canon cameras ( HDR staking photos ) + Helion focus = WOW. Try such solution.
Havent tried it. Guess i should check it out. Cheers
I learned a lot! Thanks Michael!
Brilliant, exactly what I was looking for.
Eh, doesn't the mic record audio along with the GoPro 12 recording video into one .mp4 file stored on the GoPro?
Maybe with Media pod, or does the 12 have some other compatibility? I have the GoPro 7 ;-)
cool danke für die hilfreichen Tips, wir fliegen am Donnerstag nach Fuerte. Nur den erwähnten Bericht von Dir habe ich noch nicht gefunden.
Artikel ist noch in Arbeit, hatte viel um die Ohren. Aber das Video enthält ja alle Ortsnahmen ;-)
@@mibreit-photo wir fliegen morgen nach Fuerte 🤙
can you compare r5c to sony a7rv
I don't have either of those cameras. But the r5c should have similar performance. But it's a cinema camera and not a stills camera. And my video is about still photography.
So can this brighten up my picture on my monitor? Will it add brightness to it?
It depends on what brightness you set. But I think you are confusing things here - a calibrated display will ensure that your editing setup conforms to some norm in terms of brightness and colors. It provides a foundation to properly edit your photos.
The new Kase “R-MCUV” filter has a coating that eliminates ghost refections as well as glare and flare. Do you think the image quality of this filter would be the same as the regular MCUV filter?
I didn't notice differences to the MCVU version II. I don't think they really reduce ghosting vs shooting without a filter. But they don't introduce any additional artifact - a problem of cheap filters.
@@mibreit-photo Awesome! Thanks for the response!
Great video, thanks for all the info Michael
Gorgeous location! Thanks for taking us there. You got some dreamy shots for sure!
I maybe travel to Mu Cang Chai Rice Terraces in September and wonder how you travel from Hanoi to this places? Hans Richard
I went with a private Tour, and was staying in a homestay.
Loved this video, bro… I am a landscape and cityscape photographer, but only working with wide and mid range (up to 100mm), and I want to put a tele in my kit, but I have zero knowledge above 100mm. I’m thinking about getting a sigma 150-600 contemporary (to also try some moon alignments) but I wonder if it’s “overkill”, or too much… big, heavy, etc Do you see yourself using a focal length more than other? Do you feel the need of having more than 400mm? Since I don’t have much experience I’m thinking on the 150-600 not only because it’s versatility but also the price point (around 900u$)… or I could get a sigma 100-400 or even the 70-200, from sigma or the canon f4 (but feeling that it may be too short)… What do you think? PS. I should add that I have an original R (full frame) and the lenses are 16-35, 24-70 and 100mm… so when I travel I would leave the 100 at home, most probably…
I now invested in 100-500 Lens and Love it. For Landscapes i mostly stay in 100-400 range though, sometimes 500. I think 150-600 is overkill unless you also shoot wildlive.
Yah… maybe I should stick with a 100-400… I’m sticking with EF glasses yet, because I still use a dslr and an old ef film slr…
Thanks Michael. Like to see more like this.
I assume this is out of date now as half those console menus dont exist anymore ?!?!
This Video contains a Lot of Basic Info, it's not about search console. Also, what is gone ?
Hi Mike, do you happen to know any reliable tide charts? According to my search by Google, different websites provide different data. I believe a correct tide chart is very important for seascape photographers.
I always use tides4fishing.com/ and the App Nautide to plan. Both use the same data. Nautide is invaluable. You pay around 10$ to get tide forecast for a year in advance which is great for planning. From my experience it's usually pretty accurate if you find a port which is close enough to the location you're shooting at. You might also find this article helpful: www.mibreit-photo.com/blog/seascape-photography-workflow/ cheers
@@mibreit-photo Thanks mike. Your website is full of treasure. I am planning my trip to sawarna beach. If the tide app is correct, there is only 3-5 days every month are suitable for photography considering both low tide and golden hour. That is really chanllage.
@@shengyetang7220 I hope you can make it work. I also have an article about how to travel to Sawarna and where to stay. It's a bit off the beaten path but all worth it!
@@mibreit-photo Yes, I read it, very helpful. Hope you can release more articles.
promo sm 😏
Thank you Michael for very informative video and quality content in general.
Water cooker? Is that the international name for a kettle? ..... just asking lol
It's a kettle, right. It cooks water, so I guess my naming isnt wrong ;-)
@@mibreit-photo well..... water boiler would be more acurate, but i accept there may not be a word for that. All good fun
@@gz-n3gzmail142 in German its Wasserkocher, guess I did the literal Translation 😅
14:15 Perfect shot❤
What is the difference between the M20 and the M20C ?
C Stands for color. I think I Show difference in the Video;-)
sorry if I missed you addressing it in the video, but why are you not using multiple exposure brackets and manually focusing them, so you can stack each focused exposure stack in helicon? it's a bit more tedious in the field, but you wouldn't have to touch up so much in post
For Woodland it's all about speed when taking the sequence - I usually do automatic focus braketing. Only for the Background I use exposure brakets because there I often need it. The retouching is fine and If it doesnt work because of movement, I can usually cope with some blown Highlights in a Woodland photo. Alternative is having very different frames (because of movement) for the complete Image, If I were to focus manually throughout.
@@mibreit-photo i understand, thank you
Hello ! Thank you for lesson, but where can i get the original image for processing ?
Those tutorials are intended to be used on your own photos ;-)
i am chinese and i hear of chinese word "rainbow" in the video hahahaha the spots you recommended i would go in few months
Great, have fun!
Zero photography skill. Just like every modern "photographer" needing a computer rather than talent.
What would a skilled photographer do to capture such a Photo in this quality, I am curious and akways keen to learn something ;-)
@@mibreit-photo I don't give free training ;-)
@@mibreit-photo still waiting. I would be so curious to know how to do it, too
Great review think im gonna buy it, did the rolls come with it?
I bought those extra. Available from flexispot.
@@mibreit-photo Nice one mate cheers
What is the point of the thin inlay ring that goes in the lens? Wont it fignette? My lenses are 77 and 82mm
You won't get vignetting for most lenses. The inlay ring allows you to make all your lenses magnetic at the front and you don't even notice. Every lens where you apply this ring can take magnetic filters. But, as I explain in the video, the use for me is limited. I have lenses with different sizes and I need step up rings. Also, for the 15mm lens I need a bigger filter to avoid vignetting. That's why I don't use the inlay. But for some people it might be fine. cheers
I calibrated my monitor with I-1 Display pro and it is just too warm and yellow the D65. I am an hyper realistic painter so I can tell you the greyscale is just too yellow. How can I fix it? Its not that the monitor was too cold etc-It’s a fact that the grey is too warm
Normally the I-1 should do correct calibrations. Did you also measure the result? Are the deltas low enough? If not, it could mean that the calibration wasn't working properly. Also, what system and monitor do you use? Could it be that there's a limitation. From my experience, factory settings for many LCDs are too cool, so once you first calibrate, they will appear very warm to your eyes. Always compare to some reference prints that you view under daylight - but I'm sure that's what you did. Alternatively: You can always use a cooler setting and again compare it to a reference sheet of paper to get it right for your own needs. But normally the D65 should give good-enough results.
Thank you for the reply. I had the same yellowish results on my Dell XPS laptop and my Dell monitor. I’ve seen that other people wrote that the monitor seems too warm after calibration and that others replied that the monitors are too cool when they out of the factory but i’m sure see that the grays are too warm for me after the calibration and I want it to match the photos that where taken as much as possible and also to get a better match with others screens
Very nice shots. Thanks for the tour. I will be retracing some of your steps in June this year when I visit Budapest.
Done 3 full cycles and now it will not charge.
They should send you a replacement then. Doesnt sound you had it for long. I use mine still without problems, even had it on two travels to charge my Laptop.
@@mibreit-photo I’ve reached out by no response yet
Sony is a big offender in this department, if you send it they will quote things that are not needed, and charge you 10-15% of the price of a new lens. Beware
Thanks for the review, I'm not sure about this light for outdoor and hiking videos, given its open design, I'm worried about dirt and water getting in very easily. How is it holding up for you so far? I was considering the mc pro from aputure,which is less powerfull but more weather resistant..
I agree, if hiking and outdoor are your primary uses, then the open design is not ideal. For me, primary is in my studio and the occasional shoot outside. And for my studio, the Aputure would have been to weak.
I love how you cleaned up the noise in the Stars layer while at the same time adding a bit of glow to those stars, thats such a good way to handle it
Wonderful tutorial. I would like to see with what settings you use helicon focus for focus stacking :)
Mostly Method B, Radius 4 and smoothing 4. If this doesnt work i might increase radius and smoothing a bit.
Thank you very much!@@mibreit-photo