General racing and tuning and car/truck builds and some tech tips.
Feel free to comment and ask questions and I will try my best to answer them
I was born and raised in South Carolina, Father was a used car dealer so I worked on cars since I was little. After high school I went to Wyotech to study automotive and high performance. Proceeded to work as a tech in dealerships for bout 5 years but currently am a chief engineer of a large tugboat in Charleston. I spend most my off time still working on cars and going racing. Looking forward to trying to get some more content out to you viewers and growing the channel so I can do more builds for yall to see
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What’s your Facebook? We meet at the track before. Needed some help with a build
@@LifeOfRIQUE yea I remember you boss and you can find me by searching Chris “Froggy” Thompson
I know it’s a long shot but what size tire was on the rear if you remember
@@pnutneace1008 it was the Mickey Thompson ET street Ss the largest size they make 295/65/r15
Ditch the fog lights and brace, that'll drop 30lbs off of the nose. The front sway bar with end links is another 12-13lbs. Rear seats, spare and jack + a few other odds and ends should knock 100lbs off. He'll still be buying beer though. lol
I expected 10.50 but that poir engine has been whooped on for 30 plus years 😂 LS time
Ohh shittt, I know you didn't get a Ford 🤣🤣
Not mine
Curious how the two step doesn’t reactivate when you slow down at the end of the run? I didn’t see you reach down and flip the switch?
It doesn’t allow it to reactivate once it releases unless the rpm falls below 2/3rds of the set point so if I have it set to 3600rpm it won’t be able to reactivate until it falls under 2400rpm and also since I’m decelerating and not on gas the rpm isn’t gonna climb to hit it again when it does release
@@FrogsGarage is that a function of the 2 step module or are you using a latching relay? My msd box has built in 2 step but I’m not sure if it includes that function
It is built into the 2 step
5/8" hole 12mm x 2mm O-ring or similar
Thanks for the size info I'm sure someone may want to know that
Let the games begin, no more laying on a concrete floor. 👍
Damn right u won’t believe this but got a mustang coming in shop right now 🤣🤣🤣
I've worked in a shop with an oil-pneumatic lift in the mid 90s as a kid
@@FrogsGarage you have a trailer and a lift... you just became everyone's new bestie.
Aint that the truth nah Sam is a good dude he comes and helps me and stuff. You dont see me work on alot of peoples cars because I dont hear from them at all unless they need something and Frog dont play that game
Very nice man,ill have my shop hopefully in the next 2 years lol
Thanks bud just got to save up took me a long time Im 32 years old and have been living pretty frugal but managed finally get one
Nice truck what’s the set up
LQ4 with LS3 heads a big cam and 4l80 with a 4800 stall in it. 4.11 Gear with eaton true trac and 28" slicks
Fantastic content 👌 👏 👍
what size was the bed before?
Both are short bed same length the stepside is like a foot narrower on the inside the bed since it’s stepside though
You found out why we nicknamed them "Snap-Off".. I've seen more broken Snap-Off tools than any other brand. Especially their sockets and electric tools. Their air hammers are a joke.
Ever make a track run with this cam? How was ptv clearance?
Yea bunch of track day footage on the channel with the truck and I didn’t have a PTV issue raced it for 2 an half years before a rod broke
@@FrogsGarage 8.1’s? To the 1/8?
@@812racing that’s with the current stock engine with the Cammed engine went 7.38 to the 1/8th was best time
@@812racing kzread.infodfWLnQ_HCRM?si=xEgVCW7t6xnUSGan that’s a video with the Cammed engine doing a grudge run against a charger
@@FrogsGarage that’s rollin! I got a poor man’s ls2 setup I’m doing for a buddy cnc ported 243 heads factory flat tops lsxrt intake port matched with a comp 54-460-11 cam 235-243 I think it is. Hoping to see it run high 6’s in the 1/8 in a 3600 pound car thru an 80e with a 4000 some odd stall converter and a 4.11 gear set in the ass end. Shall see. Just hoping PTV clearance is good enough.
The shallow broaching is actually a sign of a professional socket, thr bolt can still go up into the socket but doesn't let the nut go so deep that I wobbles and prevents a socket from making a square bite on the nut. Shallow broaching is considered faster to connect on the nut. My sk sockets, gear wrench are shallow broach
How do you keep from banging your face into the door when open?
Amazon is life, Amazon is happiness.
TEKTON is the best all factors considered
Appreciate your video as I'm new to tuning; I bought the sensor you linked but ordered a different connector (Ballenger Motorsports - Compatible with GM Delphi/Packard - 2-way un-shrouded GT 150 3.5mm Centerline Sealed Female Kit for IAT) from Amazon for a cleaner install with no butt connectors; of course if someone doesn't have pin crimp tool they might prefer the butts.
I soldered and heatshrinked mine cause I’m not a fan of butt connectors either
the gas 18 to 20 ...good job first weld
Thanks bud I appreciate it
think itll fit for chevy uplander 2005 ? excessive weight ?
I approve of the red neck drone shot lol. Another tip for some of your viewers. Most communities have a spot where you can get gravel,mulch, things like that. Another way to get a good cheap driveway
Lol dont make fun its my sons page but what did you do with the extra wires you didnt use??
Haha its all good and I just trimmed them back wrapped them and stuck then hid back inside the loom
@FrogsGarage And as far as needing it tuned it will run but just with a check engine light correct??
Yea it will still run just has to set the code for the Maf sensor then it will run off just the MAP only
Ok, i see the bigfer picture. My 2 cents: Snap on: Yes, they are very expensive. However, if you need a specialty tool or custom tools for a particular car, then that would be the best way to go. If snap on is too difficult to, then my suggestion is just called the corporation. Icon: If you are just doing simple jobs on the vehicle, then yeah, icon would be a better choice. Tekkton: It's a good brand. I think their best for median between icon and snapon. They will have all the tools you need and more.
Yea that about hits it on the head
Do less drugs
Not sure how any of this makes think I do drugs but thanks I’ll keep that in mind
@frogsgarage , do more drugs
heck yea Robbie lol dope it up
@@FrogsGarageyou still hitting them hard?
Thanks man was kinda stuck but thanks to you I got it 🤘🏾
No problem glad could help
Unless youre me, you gotta bring everything including a spare car 🤣
Yea pretty much need to carry the shop with u
All good info. I agree with all of that and since im old i add just a bit. I like to have a pair of jack stands just for extra safety. I like to have a couple gallons of water just in case. Im a firm believer in a power inverter too for charging phones, laptop, maybe even a fan or corded power tool. Last time i so forgot my air compressor 😂🤦♂️
How about a sandwich so you can eat it on the starting line
I think u mean a pillow 🤣
Because racetruck
Dang right
I like the breakdown, especially the loww budget version,. I’ve stayed away from the ls for long as I could. But I mite just go for it,. Yu have a new subscriber my friend
Thanks yea I appreciate it most all my content is around budget stuff and LS based stuff
I am doing my first Ls swap. Ls3/6al90E in a 03'Crown Vic Police Interceptor. Not my first engine tho. It's a project with my grandkids.
Only way to make a ford fast is put a chevy engine in it 🤣. But man thats awsome and nice hope it all goes good for you and its sweet that ur doing it with the grandkids and able to teach and spend quality time with them Im sure they will always look back on remember doing stuff like that with you growing up
@FrogsGarage Thank you. I appreciate it. Ford tough with Chevy stuff!!! Lol!!!!
Great info, not sure if you mentioned the part number but can you put a link to it or part number? Thanks
yea the parts links are down in the description already
My bad, thanks you much LS Brother !
no problem anytime boss
Tekton replaced my socket in 2 days. From Michigan to Florida FedEx free of charge.
Thats good to know from what Ive heard from others too they are pretty good with the warranty process
Yup, donor vehicle is the way to go. You can see it run, and move under its own power. Plus, it's complete. Much better than getting nickel and dimed to death on all the misc stuff.
Yea and if u work everything out right with parting out the rest u can almost do swap free. I think the black silverado I got almost 3000 dollars for parting it out and I paid 1800$ for it not to mention I got those 2000$ 37" nitto tires i was running and that 3500$ lift off of it that I have on my big white truck
Good info as always
Probably going to get this cam fro my LS2 With LS3 heads that i got, hope it works
Yea cam was awsome I made 420whp in the truck and I was running LS3 heads on the LQ4
Good video as usual. Lots of info i didn't know. I do like the simplicity of my gen3 and it came with the truck lol. I see theres pros commenting on here so i have a question. I only have injector data for ls1 and ls2. Nothing for lm7. What is going to be closest ? My truck runs perfect for about a minute then i get po200 which is injector related. I clear the code and its perfect until the code comes back. Can't find anything mechanically wrong so i assume its my data. Any thoughts?
I’m confused on ur question the injector data is for the size and flow of the injector the type of engine it’s in doesn’t effect the injector data
P0200 has to do with high or low voltage or resistance drop sounds like a electrical issue to me If the PCM commands the fuel injector to turn off, it expects to see a high voltage on the driver ground circuit. On the other hand, if it commands the fuel injector to turn on, it expects to see a low voltage on the driver ground circuit. If the PCM is unable to detect these conditions on the driver circuit, it sets the trouble code P0200.
@@FrogsGarage exactly how i understood it. I just wasn't sure if voltage is the same across injector brands , sizes etc. I didn't know if bad data could cause it. Some say yes and others don't know. Not a whole lot of info out there. I do know it wasn't an issue before i upgraded
@@FrogsGarage im still using stock data except for scaling the flow table
Gen 1 sbc is the best.
I gotta say cant beat the SBC on being the easiest and cheapest to work with and can make good power with them as well
@@FrogsGarage Ya people underestimate them another cool thing about them is if you buy one of the aftermarket all aluminum blocks they weigh less than an LS. There are also slightly smaller than the LS so you can fight them in smaller engine compartments.
The best part between later gen3 and 4 is you can use either block, crank, pistons, heads, lifters, cams. Only thing about gen 3 block used in 2007-2014 is you would need to tap the knock sensors basically how the Gen 1 SBC is. The other con is there are no aftermarket cams compatible with the vvt. But honestly vvt is nothing but a pita on any engine. LS2 is basically a Unicorn like the early LS1 block with 4.8 5.3 6.0 stamped on it, you have greater chance of stroking a 4.8/5.3. I believe the L8T (Gen 5 6.6/400CID) is cast iron block with Al heads
@shadowopsairman1583 the interchangability between gen 3 and 4 is nice. The VVT yea like I said in the video Id just delete it and be done with it, yea there is so many variations it would become to long and drawn out of a video to cover them all so mainly stuck with the truck engines since they are easiest to find and fit most budgets better
Gen IV pro - the extra webbing in the block, makes them a little bit stronger for boost or squeeze. Gen V con - the heads have seat issues. You know how I roll, it's Gen III for me with some Gen IV parts sprinkled in.
In my experience, that is a terrible location. As far away from the engine the better. Closer to the air filter is better.
You didn't mention it that I noticed, but buying off of Tekton's website is better than using Amazon. Not only do they do free shipping on orders over $25, they ship the same day if you place your order before 3pm Eastern . In most of the contiguous 48 States, that will get your tools to you in 1 to 4 business days depending on where you are compared to Grand Rapids, MI. In addition, they will give you 10% credit towards another purchase. That credit can be held or used as you see fit when you place an order, so you can use it immediately or save up credits toward a bigger purchase and they will hold it for up to two years.
Nice info did not know that
Maybe he heard you call a wheel a "rim" over and over and thought you were a dope.
wow.. that's a serious newby mistake on your rims. Hold them to it!
Yours has that 99-early 2000 frame. My old 2000 was like my 2001. The transmission crossmembers in those years were different too. I kept looking at it and thinking - something looked off.
What u mean different?
@@FrogsGarage if you look at my truck, it has pieces welded to the frame on each side, then the crossmember bolts in the center. Yours was actually easier to convert.
@@bluecollarhotrods9781 mine had that too I cut them off 🤣🤣
Setting the bar real high. lol Truck + driver and fuel - I'm almost 800lbs heavier. I think unless I can make a trip north for some better air (DA) I am out of luck for getting a 12.9x pass. It's been around 90 degrees here lately. 👎
What you doing with a “ health o meter “
Checkin the health of the truck it’s on a diet 🤣🤣
Good thing it’s only the truck and not yours
The call out !! 😂😂😂 I ran a mono leaf with caltracs on my s10 with no issues. Even liked the stance better . 💪💪
What some people post....