Hi there, when you solder do you need to ensure the solder at each pin wont touch any of others?
@takeitapartguy46709 күн бұрын
Hi, yes, the solder points must not touch their neighboring pins. That is known as 'bridging', and will basically short circuit the board when power is supplied as signals will be travelling over the bridge to places they shouldn't, then kaput.
@Ryu_K-ew1he16 күн бұрын
Great guide, can't wait to try this myself! Though i have a question, can this method be applied on the "888" digital speedometer problem? Can't seem to find a video on how to fix it. A temporary fix is a big smack on the dash but it's only well...temporary. Cheers for the video!
@takeitapartguy467013 күн бұрын
If smacking the speedometer fixes the 888 display problem, then it sounds like it is the same sort of issue. I was hitting my stereo display for over a year, with it gradually needing to be hit more and more often, until I decided to fix it. The hitting works because it vibrates the loose/broken connection back into contact. Given the poor soldering on one display, the workmanship is likely the same on the speedo.
@bpokrepinАй бұрын
Thank you! That helped. But I did damaged some of the pins. Is it even possible to perfectly open those panels considering plastic is 18 years old 😆 I guess in that battle - metal clips VS plastic - the winner is obvious...
@bpokrepinАй бұрын
and yes accurate resoldering around 90 board pins sucks, but is totally worth it!
@timfreedman8732 ай бұрын
Thanks for sharing this tutorial. It was a great help. Instead of resoldering I used the heat gun method. Just be careful not to melt the plastic case. I probably only used the heat gun on high for about 20 seconds.
@emiwiaffxiv7762 ай бұрын
Kind of wish it was possible to delete that little display entirely. An aftermarket double din head unit renders it useless anyway
@Rumpelstiltskin9993 ай бұрын
Yep may radio display work now, but my kmh don't work showing zero all the time
@jt69453 ай бұрын
The digital Speedo on mine started flickering on and off. Then goes off all together for a while, then flickers again I've got it out and wiggling the wiring plug makes no difference Will it need same thing as this to fix so you know? Thanks
@davebeckett50783 ай бұрын
Thank you 👍 Took me two attempts as my soldering on the first made it a bit better but not perfect - second time round took minutes to get the clock out and using flux in the second go improved the whole process. Is perfect now thanks to your tutorial 😊
@rishabs98354 ай бұрын
The speedometer struggle is real, i broke mine and now my moms gonna kill me.
@napskyver5 ай бұрын
Thanks for sharing this - just fixed the display (well I removed and refitted and my son did the soldering) teamwork is dream work! Let’s hope it lasts as long as yours has! Really good step by step tutorial!
@rudivandermerwe77066 ай бұрын
Awesome video.. thank you for sharing. Helped me to fix it myself with any problems 👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻
@Discombe6 ай бұрын
Anyone having trouble removing the clock unit from the dash, i found prising the left side off first was a lot easier than taking the right side out. I ended up pushing it back into place and tried this way and it come straight out 👍🏻
@nickbaker10546 ай бұрын
Great video thanks - finally fixed this problem today - been driving me nuts. I had to add solder to each pin to be sure of a good connection and the flux is key to getting the initial heat transfer.
@YZY_RAP6 ай бұрын
Tried this today with my brother. First i used the multimeter to test the connections and some really hadn't continuity. He reheated the solder on the pins and some in the small mounts also. Tested every pin with the multimeter again, every one of those connections had continuity. Still isnt working, only shows vertical lines 😓
@takeitapartguy46706 ай бұрын
Hi, first thing I would check is that the connections that were reheated haven't accidently bridged with the connection next to it. Are the vertical lines where they should be showing, and no horizontal lines at all, or are all of the verticals showing regardless of what you expect to be displayed? Just trying to think what else might be causing the problem on your display.
@YZY_RAP6 ай бұрын
@@takeitapartguy4670 hey there. The vertical lines appear where they should appear, so for example when I use the volume knob, it changes to "VOLUME [NUMBER]" and when it exits volume mode it changes again
@YZY_RAP6 ай бұрын
@@takeitapartguy4670 it's fixed, I got the contact of a person who could apply new solder and all and he fixed it. It's awesome
@takeitapartguy46706 ай бұрын
Hi, thanks for clarifying. If the vertical lines are all there, but there are no horizontal lines at all, then logically that suggests the connection/mechanism for signaling and powering the vertical is working/connected correctly, but the the same process that does the horizontal lines, is not. If that is true then the horizontal and vertical must be controlled separately. I've no idea what the different connection pins are responsible for, but I would guess that there is one master pin for the horizontal lines, and your unit has a fault on that circuit. Really need a schematic for the board, that would make it clearer how it all works. I'm just a tinkerer, not an electrical engineer, so figuring it out without a schematic is beyond me... @@YZY_RAP
@YZY_RAP6 ай бұрын
@@takeitapartguy4670 oh well, who knows 😅 what's important is it's fixed and was cheap 😄
@soundseeker636 ай бұрын
Good video guide. One thing I would add for anyone who isn't confident with using a soldering iron on such fine connections, you can achieve the same results using SOLDER GLUE applied with the end of a cocktail stick to each connection and the results will work just as well, but your chances of messing up the PCB are much lower.
@daniel_dimitrov_works6 ай бұрын
Thank you! You saved me some money. I did what you showed in the clip in early August 2023. The display has now been in both very hot and very cold weather and it still working perfectly fine. I haven't seen the display faded out ever since. I am fairly amateur at soldering, so I can confirm that this is a fairly easy fix. The hardest part was getting that plastic cover that is above the display.
@ralfwinkler47656 ай бұрын
After watching this video I decided to call my display a loss and use and old smartphone with a speed display app instead.
@takeitapartguy46706 ай бұрын
haha, well, that would be a good April fools day 'fix'. If it works, it works. Though this was audio, rather than speed display... I imagine not having a speed display would be an MOT fail in the UK.
@belabertalan7 ай бұрын
I'm wondering what if just that main connector going into this panel has a contact issue? How do we know that it's the solder joints?
@takeitapartguy46706 ай бұрын
Hi. there may well be other defects which result in the same issue. This one is identified as a loose connection/solder issue, as when it first starts showing signs of failure, you can 'fix' it by hitting it, or pushing certain parts of the screen. All that is doing is pushing the broken contacts closer again, thus temporarily 'fixing' the issue until vibrations for driving separate them again. You can test the integrity of the connection by using a multi-meter on continuity setting, that is how you can verify if the solder joints have a problem or not.
@belabertalan6 ай бұрын
@@takeitapartguy4670 I see. It turned out that this was the case with mine as well. Broken solder joints were clearly visible. Managed to fix it. Thanks for the great video and your reply.
@takeitapartguy46706 ай бұрын
Awesome! I'm glad you were able to fix it. So satisfying when it works again and you haven't had to give a Honda garage your left kidney. @@belabertalan
@iustinagabrielalascar71047 ай бұрын
Can you do a video showing how to change the background color for this display? I want mine to be blue with white words like the main display if possible. Thank you in advance!
@takeitapartguy46707 ай бұрын
Sorry, no idea how that is done, and it isn't a mod I'm interested in doing on my car, so no something I would do.
@manbeastbutler42347 ай бұрын
I’m going to replace with another unit as my solder effort was rubbish. Do you know if it’s coded to that vehicle or can an eBay replacement just slot in? Thanks in advance
@takeitapartguy46707 ай бұрын
I've not heard of the audio display being coded to the vehicle. The stereo unit yes, and no doubt the ECU. eBay swap out should work, but I imagine you would be purchase a part from a written off car, so you won't necessarily know if the replacement part works, or it may have the same aged solder issue. Good luck! You could always get someone else to do the soldering, a decent PC repair shop should be able to fix your soldering effort pretty easily.
@RASHED7867 ай бұрын
Thanks for video, helped me replace mine.
@user-zs8cn5rp9p8 ай бұрын
Hi, is anyone in the London area that would be willing to fix this for me ? Obviously would pay for it to be done
@ayaaent99969 ай бұрын
Thanks for the video, actually taking the speed-meter was somehow easy, i did exactly how you putted it and it came right off, hearing how you said it was a pain in the ass i was ready for the hassle haha. Did a pretty sloppy job with the solding but that annoying issue is resolved now. Honda fined me for 600 euros for the replacement, which i found ridiculous.
@JamilMaqdis10 ай бұрын
What type of connector is it on the back of the display?
@takeitapartguy46709 ай бұрын
No idea what it's official name is.
@porkied610 ай бұрын
Dankeschön!
@josipnikic37610 ай бұрын
Thanks a lot. Very good explained. Fixed it in about 20 min.
@bittripper353010 ай бұрын
If you break clips you are doing it wrong and using too much force, there's a video on youtube where it's easier to use Lego pry tools to aid in the removal (they seem to give you a little more leverage than trim tools)
@robertret361411 ай бұрын
OMG! I need to do this, but just by watching your video my blood pressure was up in the sky and I wanted to scream. I will need serious sedative to start this. Those plastic clips... Anyway, awesome video! Thank you for taking your time to make it and share with us!
@TheSkyrocko11 ай бұрын
Awesome video, really helped in understanding the rootcause and then apply the fix Fixed my display using the video as a guide
@peterfi.11 ай бұрын
Thanks, did it on LHD model, worked like a charm. Though the speedo next to the display doesn't sit quite right anymore for some reason after reassembling.. oh well..
@lucad3p11 ай бұрын
I've the same problem in the rpm section behind the steering wheel... There's a fix also for this?
@takeitapartguy467011 ай бұрын
It is reasonable to assume that if the problem is the same, that the fix would be the same. I've not had to take the speedo display out, so can't give any advice other than investigate, Haynes manual or Google.
@Intz0111 ай бұрын
Just fixed my display. Watched also this video and followed the steps. The speed display back clip was hard. Couldn't understand how to get that off. Unfortunately that i broke.
@takeitapartguy467011 ай бұрын
The clips are definitely the worst part of the job. No big deal if one breaks though, other ways to secure it, and not visible 🙂
@Negativvv11 ай бұрын
It's the backlight on mine that's the issue. Whilst I've lost a few bits of the LCD display, I found that soldering didn't do anything to fix them. Guess I should multi-meter check each contact but other comments suggest the back light isn't directly related to the solder points.
@wouternelissen5292 Жыл бұрын
This video convinced me to tackle this job. Thx for the information. Removing the panels can and will be incredibly frustrating. It took me 2(!!) hours to get them all off. Cruelly though, i managed to break one of the clips when putting everything back together 😀. The five pins furthest from the connector were very loose on mine but all pins got some extra soldering. Screen is working perfect again. Unfortunately there's now a loud rattle on bad surfaces which could be due to the broken clip.
@takeitapartguy467011 ай бұрын
hm, depending on which clip it is, I'd get some strong double-sided tape, or cram it full of blutak to stop the rattle. Come to think of it... breaking all the clips off and taping it all would make it much easier to take apart! Hopefully the repair will outlast the rest of the car. Got to be 5 or 6 years now since I filmed that, and display is still fine.
@gknipe Жыл бұрын
Great tutorial but when you listed ‘ability to not lost your temper’ I realised I probably ought to get someone else to tackle it. 😂
@user-bw7fe1ie3s Жыл бұрын
Hi what would happen if the solder connects with the next pin cheers
@takeitapartguy4670 Жыл бұрын
Hi, if the solder connect the pin you are soldering with the one next to it, the reflow and remove the solder. You can get something called 'solder wick', which is a copper mesh that flowing solder will get absorbed into. Or you can get this plastic button vacuum thing that sucks up extra solder. Whatever way, you do not want to reinstall the unit if you have bridged two pins that are not supposed to be connected. If unit won't work properly as you've changed the circuitry by bridging the pins. Best case, it just acts weird or blows a fuse, worst case something gets damaged. Either way, sort it out before reinstalling.
@user-bw7fe1ie3s Жыл бұрын
Thank you
@BoloH. Жыл бұрын
Started doing the same repair and it became very obvious that someone has been inside this unit before. Anyway, great instructions!
@ERMOLCAify Жыл бұрын
The problem I have is that the air conditioning is not reflected on the radio display, I checked all the connections and resolved the screen (the time and radio looks perfect) but when I turn on the A/C it works but it is not seen on the screen Do you know if there is an internal fuse or something... thanks for the video
@takeitapartguy4670 Жыл бұрын
Interesting. I have no knowledge about an internal fuse in the display. It wouldn't make any sense there to be one there as fuses are meant to be accessible for replacement, and the display is not easily accessible. Strange that everything else is displaying properly and just that specific section not working. A wiring diagram would help, then you could identify exactly which pins are related to the air con signal. Got to one available somewhere, it is just a pain finding that stuff because the EU model is different to the more common Civic MK VIII.
@Fazer_600 Жыл бұрын
Great guide, got the trim panels off a lot easier with your advice.
@BudKing96 Жыл бұрын
5:30 the bit hes soldering on mine has spikey pins sticking out am i supposed to melt them down?
@takeitapartguy4670 Жыл бұрын
No, you wouldn't be able to melt the pins down with a soldering iron anyway. It has been a while and I should have zoomed in on the video. If there are pins then they are probably coming from the back, going through some holes in the PCB and then the solder is connecting them together. The pins are supposed to be there.
@BudKing96 Жыл бұрын
@@takeitapartguy4670 yes i noticed from few other vids there was pins on everyones and i manage to sort it anyway after 4 hours of soldering and a headache lmao had to redo all the solder coz i burnt them.. 1st time using soldering iron but i got there in the end and radio display is fixed if i can do it anyone can
@shabbirabdulhussein8748 Жыл бұрын
I've had this problem for 1 year and I finally fixed it. Thank you for such an awesome video man!
@takeitapartguy4670 Жыл бұрын
I'm pleased it helped, nice job on the fix!
@messiah2534 Жыл бұрын
Nice cut off at 3:12. Is there any secret which one you don't want to show?
@takeitapartguy4670 Жыл бұрын
No secret, just wouldn't have had enough storage on my SD card for how long it took me to get the damn panel out. With my other half filming my incompetence, it was less stressful to turn it off until I got it.
@seabass1015 Жыл бұрын
Same issue here
@lua01992 Жыл бұрын
Thanks for sharing dude it was detailed and helpful
@ianoliver4290 Жыл бұрын
I found the panel comes out easier by releasing/pulling on the left hand side first and then the right side after and remove from both ends once initially released from the two clips on each end. Releasing the right hand end first causes the left hand end to jam up. The way the clips are designed,the panel has to come out and refit parallel to the facia.
@DARTraderMediaProductions Жыл бұрын
Great stuff, just got a 2010 mk8 and one digit is out at the min. I'll have a go when I get more time, busy with the boot leak(s) at the moment. 🤣 Many thanks for the video.
@yamyam39054 ай бұрын
Have you fixed your boot leaks ? I Got 1 or 2 suggestions if you haven't .
@DARTraderMediaProductions4 ай бұрын
@@yamyam3905All sorted, thanks. It was the roof gutter ends just under the hatch, the last place I tried. The seam had cracked, cleaned and ran some clear silicone in and that cured it. Its been dry for the last 10 months since doing it.
@yamyam39054 ай бұрын
@@DARTraderMediaProductions good to hear 👍
@TokioXShorts Жыл бұрын
I though that repairing display will be the hardest part, but removing speedo was impossible, it just wouldn't come out, so I gave up
@mobilephone4512 Жыл бұрын
I have a type r red display that doesnt work, and type s with blue display that works, however i want to scrap that type s car now so was thinking i could take the panel out and put it intot the type r.. would this work?!
@takeitapartguy4670 Жыл бұрын
Interesting question. I've never tried it, so can't say for sure. I would suspect that physically it would, as it would seem ridiculous if Honda wired them differently between the type R and the standard model. I believe stereo systems are coded to the individual vehicle and need unlocking if changed, I don't know if the same would apply to the clock. Worth doing some more research, or just try it out and see.
@Morzs1 Жыл бұрын
I've done all the instruction and even bought a second hand as it wasn't working but both display had light on only around the edges. Anyone have any idea where the fault would be? Maybe a fuse?
@takeitapartguy4670 Жыл бұрын
Always worth checking the fuse. If both units are exhibiting the same behavior, then as you are thinking, the problem is likely outside of the unit. Other than the fuse I would check the pins that the unit connects to, but on the car side. Check those for voltage with a multimeter. Car electricals run on 12v, so I would expect to see 12v on at least one of the pins once you identify that and the ground pin. If you see anything other than 12v, or cant find any voltage, then that would be a clue.
@mickl8212 Жыл бұрын
I need to do this to mine again. My repair lasted about 6months before the display segments started breaking up again.
@takeitapartguy4670 Жыл бұрын
Damn. At least you know the process now and hopefully the panels come off more easily as they've been taken out once. I'm guessing the solder joint was too cold and brittle. Use more flux, and check out some soldering tutorials. It is tempting to just whack the temperature up on the iron, but that can cause the pads on the board to come off, then you have to run jumper wires, which is a pain. Got to be 5 years now since I filmed the footage, and mine is still fine. Rest of the car is falling to pieces around it though!
Пікірлер
Hi there, when you solder do you need to ensure the solder at each pin wont touch any of others?
Hi, yes, the solder points must not touch their neighboring pins. That is known as 'bridging', and will basically short circuit the board when power is supplied as signals will be travelling over the bridge to places they shouldn't, then kaput.
Great guide, can't wait to try this myself! Though i have a question, can this method be applied on the "888" digital speedometer problem? Can't seem to find a video on how to fix it. A temporary fix is a big smack on the dash but it's only well...temporary. Cheers for the video!
If smacking the speedometer fixes the 888 display problem, then it sounds like it is the same sort of issue. I was hitting my stereo display for over a year, with it gradually needing to be hit more and more often, until I decided to fix it. The hitting works because it vibrates the loose/broken connection back into contact. Given the poor soldering on one display, the workmanship is likely the same on the speedo.
Thank you! That helped. But I did damaged some of the pins. Is it even possible to perfectly open those panels considering plastic is 18 years old 😆 I guess in that battle - metal clips VS plastic - the winner is obvious...
and yes accurate resoldering around 90 board pins sucks, but is totally worth it!
Thanks for sharing this tutorial. It was a great help. Instead of resoldering I used the heat gun method. Just be careful not to melt the plastic case. I probably only used the heat gun on high for about 20 seconds.
Kind of wish it was possible to delete that little display entirely. An aftermarket double din head unit renders it useless anyway
Yep may radio display work now, but my kmh don't work showing zero all the time
The digital Speedo on mine started flickering on and off. Then goes off all together for a while, then flickers again I've got it out and wiggling the wiring plug makes no difference Will it need same thing as this to fix so you know? Thanks
Thank you 👍 Took me two attempts as my soldering on the first made it a bit better but not perfect - second time round took minutes to get the clock out and using flux in the second go improved the whole process. Is perfect now thanks to your tutorial 😊
The speedometer struggle is real, i broke mine and now my moms gonna kill me.
Thanks for sharing this - just fixed the display (well I removed and refitted and my son did the soldering) teamwork is dream work! Let’s hope it lasts as long as yours has! Really good step by step tutorial!
Awesome video.. thank you for sharing. Helped me to fix it myself with any problems 👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻
Anyone having trouble removing the clock unit from the dash, i found prising the left side off first was a lot easier than taking the right side out. I ended up pushing it back into place and tried this way and it come straight out 👍🏻
Great video thanks - finally fixed this problem today - been driving me nuts. I had to add solder to each pin to be sure of a good connection and the flux is key to getting the initial heat transfer.
Tried this today with my brother. First i used the multimeter to test the connections and some really hadn't continuity. He reheated the solder on the pins and some in the small mounts also. Tested every pin with the multimeter again, every one of those connections had continuity. Still isnt working, only shows vertical lines 😓
Hi, first thing I would check is that the connections that were reheated haven't accidently bridged with the connection next to it. Are the vertical lines where they should be showing, and no horizontal lines at all, or are all of the verticals showing regardless of what you expect to be displayed? Just trying to think what else might be causing the problem on your display.
@@takeitapartguy4670 hey there. The vertical lines appear where they should appear, so for example when I use the volume knob, it changes to "VOLUME [NUMBER]" and when it exits volume mode it changes again
@@takeitapartguy4670 it's fixed, I got the contact of a person who could apply new solder and all and he fixed it. It's awesome
Hi, thanks for clarifying. If the vertical lines are all there, but there are no horizontal lines at all, then logically that suggests the connection/mechanism for signaling and powering the vertical is working/connected correctly, but the the same process that does the horizontal lines, is not. If that is true then the horizontal and vertical must be controlled separately. I've no idea what the different connection pins are responsible for, but I would guess that there is one master pin for the horizontal lines, and your unit has a fault on that circuit. Really need a schematic for the board, that would make it clearer how it all works. I'm just a tinkerer, not an electrical engineer, so figuring it out without a schematic is beyond me... @@YZY_RAP
@@takeitapartguy4670 oh well, who knows 😅 what's important is it's fixed and was cheap 😄
Good video guide. One thing I would add for anyone who isn't confident with using a soldering iron on such fine connections, you can achieve the same results using SOLDER GLUE applied with the end of a cocktail stick to each connection and the results will work just as well, but your chances of messing up the PCB are much lower.
Thank you! You saved me some money. I did what you showed in the clip in early August 2023. The display has now been in both very hot and very cold weather and it still working perfectly fine. I haven't seen the display faded out ever since. I am fairly amateur at soldering, so I can confirm that this is a fairly easy fix. The hardest part was getting that plastic cover that is above the display.
After watching this video I decided to call my display a loss and use and old smartphone with a speed display app instead.
haha, well, that would be a good April fools day 'fix'. If it works, it works. Though this was audio, rather than speed display... I imagine not having a speed display would be an MOT fail in the UK.
I'm wondering what if just that main connector going into this panel has a contact issue? How do we know that it's the solder joints?
Hi. there may well be other defects which result in the same issue. This one is identified as a loose connection/solder issue, as when it first starts showing signs of failure, you can 'fix' it by hitting it, or pushing certain parts of the screen. All that is doing is pushing the broken contacts closer again, thus temporarily 'fixing' the issue until vibrations for driving separate them again. You can test the integrity of the connection by using a multi-meter on continuity setting, that is how you can verify if the solder joints have a problem or not.
@@takeitapartguy4670 I see. It turned out that this was the case with mine as well. Broken solder joints were clearly visible. Managed to fix it. Thanks for the great video and your reply.
Awesome! I'm glad you were able to fix it. So satisfying when it works again and you haven't had to give a Honda garage your left kidney. @@belabertalan
Can you do a video showing how to change the background color for this display? I want mine to be blue with white words like the main display if possible. Thank you in advance!
Sorry, no idea how that is done, and it isn't a mod I'm interested in doing on my car, so no something I would do.
I’m going to replace with another unit as my solder effort was rubbish. Do you know if it’s coded to that vehicle or can an eBay replacement just slot in? Thanks in advance
I've not heard of the audio display being coded to the vehicle. The stereo unit yes, and no doubt the ECU. eBay swap out should work, but I imagine you would be purchase a part from a written off car, so you won't necessarily know if the replacement part works, or it may have the same aged solder issue. Good luck! You could always get someone else to do the soldering, a decent PC repair shop should be able to fix your soldering effort pretty easily.
Thanks for video, helped me replace mine.
Hi, is anyone in the London area that would be willing to fix this for me ? Obviously would pay for it to be done
Thanks for the video, actually taking the speed-meter was somehow easy, i did exactly how you putted it and it came right off, hearing how you said it was a pain in the ass i was ready for the hassle haha. Did a pretty sloppy job with the solding but that annoying issue is resolved now. Honda fined me for 600 euros for the replacement, which i found ridiculous.
What type of connector is it on the back of the display?
No idea what it's official name is.
Dankeschön!
Thanks a lot. Very good explained. Fixed it in about 20 min.
If you break clips you are doing it wrong and using too much force, there's a video on youtube where it's easier to use Lego pry tools to aid in the removal (they seem to give you a little more leverage than trim tools)
OMG! I need to do this, but just by watching your video my blood pressure was up in the sky and I wanted to scream. I will need serious sedative to start this. Those plastic clips... Anyway, awesome video! Thank you for taking your time to make it and share with us!
Awesome video, really helped in understanding the rootcause and then apply the fix Fixed my display using the video as a guide
Thanks, did it on LHD model, worked like a charm. Though the speedo next to the display doesn't sit quite right anymore for some reason after reassembling.. oh well..
I've the same problem in the rpm section behind the steering wheel... There's a fix also for this?
It is reasonable to assume that if the problem is the same, that the fix would be the same. I've not had to take the speedo display out, so can't give any advice other than investigate, Haynes manual or Google.
Just fixed my display. Watched also this video and followed the steps. The speed display back clip was hard. Couldn't understand how to get that off. Unfortunately that i broke.
The clips are definitely the worst part of the job. No big deal if one breaks though, other ways to secure it, and not visible 🙂
It's the backlight on mine that's the issue. Whilst I've lost a few bits of the LCD display, I found that soldering didn't do anything to fix them. Guess I should multi-meter check each contact but other comments suggest the back light isn't directly related to the solder points.
This video convinced me to tackle this job. Thx for the information. Removing the panels can and will be incredibly frustrating. It took me 2(!!) hours to get them all off. Cruelly though, i managed to break one of the clips when putting everything back together 😀. The five pins furthest from the connector were very loose on mine but all pins got some extra soldering. Screen is working perfect again. Unfortunately there's now a loud rattle on bad surfaces which could be due to the broken clip.
hm, depending on which clip it is, I'd get some strong double-sided tape, or cram it full of blutak to stop the rattle. Come to think of it... breaking all the clips off and taping it all would make it much easier to take apart! Hopefully the repair will outlast the rest of the car. Got to be 5 or 6 years now since I filmed that, and display is still fine.
Great tutorial but when you listed ‘ability to not lost your temper’ I realised I probably ought to get someone else to tackle it. 😂
Hi what would happen if the solder connects with the next pin cheers
Hi, if the solder connect the pin you are soldering with the one next to it, the reflow and remove the solder. You can get something called 'solder wick', which is a copper mesh that flowing solder will get absorbed into. Or you can get this plastic button vacuum thing that sucks up extra solder. Whatever way, you do not want to reinstall the unit if you have bridged two pins that are not supposed to be connected. If unit won't work properly as you've changed the circuitry by bridging the pins. Best case, it just acts weird or blows a fuse, worst case something gets damaged. Either way, sort it out before reinstalling.
Thank you
Started doing the same repair and it became very obvious that someone has been inside this unit before. Anyway, great instructions!
The problem I have is that the air conditioning is not reflected on the radio display, I checked all the connections and resolved the screen (the time and radio looks perfect) but when I turn on the A/C it works but it is not seen on the screen Do you know if there is an internal fuse or something... thanks for the video
Interesting. I have no knowledge about an internal fuse in the display. It wouldn't make any sense there to be one there as fuses are meant to be accessible for replacement, and the display is not easily accessible. Strange that everything else is displaying properly and just that specific section not working. A wiring diagram would help, then you could identify exactly which pins are related to the air con signal. Got to one available somewhere, it is just a pain finding that stuff because the EU model is different to the more common Civic MK VIII.
Great guide, got the trim panels off a lot easier with your advice.
5:30 the bit hes soldering on mine has spikey pins sticking out am i supposed to melt them down?
No, you wouldn't be able to melt the pins down with a soldering iron anyway. It has been a while and I should have zoomed in on the video. If there are pins then they are probably coming from the back, going through some holes in the PCB and then the solder is connecting them together. The pins are supposed to be there.
@@takeitapartguy4670 yes i noticed from few other vids there was pins on everyones and i manage to sort it anyway after 4 hours of soldering and a headache lmao had to redo all the solder coz i burnt them.. 1st time using soldering iron but i got there in the end and radio display is fixed if i can do it anyone can
I've had this problem for 1 year and I finally fixed it. Thank you for such an awesome video man!
I'm pleased it helped, nice job on the fix!
Nice cut off at 3:12. Is there any secret which one you don't want to show?
No secret, just wouldn't have had enough storage on my SD card for how long it took me to get the damn panel out. With my other half filming my incompetence, it was less stressful to turn it off until I got it.
Same issue here
Thanks for sharing dude it was detailed and helpful
I found the panel comes out easier by releasing/pulling on the left hand side first and then the right side after and remove from both ends once initially released from the two clips on each end. Releasing the right hand end first causes the left hand end to jam up. The way the clips are designed,the panel has to come out and refit parallel to the facia.
Great stuff, just got a 2010 mk8 and one digit is out at the min. I'll have a go when I get more time, busy with the boot leak(s) at the moment. 🤣 Many thanks for the video.
Have you fixed your boot leaks ? I Got 1 or 2 suggestions if you haven't .
@@yamyam3905All sorted, thanks. It was the roof gutter ends just under the hatch, the last place I tried. The seam had cracked, cleaned and ran some clear silicone in and that cured it. Its been dry for the last 10 months since doing it.
@@DARTraderMediaProductions good to hear 👍
I though that repairing display will be the hardest part, but removing speedo was impossible, it just wouldn't come out, so I gave up
I have a type r red display that doesnt work, and type s with blue display that works, however i want to scrap that type s car now so was thinking i could take the panel out and put it intot the type r.. would this work?!
Interesting question. I've never tried it, so can't say for sure. I would suspect that physically it would, as it would seem ridiculous if Honda wired them differently between the type R and the standard model. I believe stereo systems are coded to the individual vehicle and need unlocking if changed, I don't know if the same would apply to the clock. Worth doing some more research, or just try it out and see.
I've done all the instruction and even bought a second hand as it wasn't working but both display had light on only around the edges. Anyone have any idea where the fault would be? Maybe a fuse?
Always worth checking the fuse. If both units are exhibiting the same behavior, then as you are thinking, the problem is likely outside of the unit. Other than the fuse I would check the pins that the unit connects to, but on the car side. Check those for voltage with a multimeter. Car electricals run on 12v, so I would expect to see 12v on at least one of the pins once you identify that and the ground pin. If you see anything other than 12v, or cant find any voltage, then that would be a clue.
I need to do this to mine again. My repair lasted about 6months before the display segments started breaking up again.
Damn. At least you know the process now and hopefully the panels come off more easily as they've been taken out once. I'm guessing the solder joint was too cold and brittle. Use more flux, and check out some soldering tutorials. It is tempting to just whack the temperature up on the iron, but that can cause the pads on the board to come off, then you have to run jumper wires, which is a pain. Got to be 5 years now since I filmed the footage, and mine is still fine. Rest of the car is falling to pieces around it though!