Were you using solder iron with heat gun attached to desolder ? If you havent used heat gun to desolder, why not ? Thanks for your response.
@mrg16193 ай бұрын
Hi, I use hot air. This was simply to demonstrate that it could be done with just an iron, normally I used just the iron and low melt to remove the port, but then I use hot air to flow solder down the anchors when installing the port.
@ibrahimahmed64543 ай бұрын
@@mrg1619 Is that a heat gun with iron attached at 12:50 ?
@mrg16193 ай бұрын
@@ibrahimahmed6454 regular iron with fume extractor
@Zpheme123 ай бұрын
What size nozzle are you using here?
@mrg16193 ай бұрын
Hi, so the stock nozzle on the FR301 is like 1.0mm and its too small, I used the N61-10 (1.6mm) in this video and its ok but I am currently using the N61-17 which is a 2.3mm and it works awesome, nice large bore so it takes all the solder up easily and can be cleaned easier too. Heat setting to 3.5 but use good amount of flux n go fast so you dont burn board
@joshualocklear62843 ай бұрын
Thanks alot my guy im an electrician and learned soldering while in school but even i had a hard time with this especially getting that pesky bad hdmi port to come out... I've heard people say its tough but damn! Lol 😅 you saved me a couple 100 bucks
@mrg16193 ай бұрын
You are welcome, yes low melt for the win! Glad you got it sorted, glad to help!
@Drxk-fn4 ай бұрын
Quick question is the thing you use a 17:37 tin
@mrg16194 ай бұрын
So sra fast chip low temp solder is used to blend with the lead free factory solder making it alot easier to remove the damaged port and clear the holes. Heres the thing tho…you dont wanna leave any trace amount of that sra fast chip on the motherboard during cleanup because once you start to solder your new port on it will make for a weaker weld. So you wanna clean with braid thorougly. Then tin the pads with regular solder and clean with braid once more. Then tin the pads on the board again with regular solder. Then place your port and start soldering away. Tinning refers to adding a regular solder to whatever your soldering. Its kinda like priming the parts so its easier to get the bonding process going. Some people lightly tin the anchors of the port and the pins on the port as well. I personally only do the pads on the board. See once youve tinned anything once you give it a lil flux and heat its gonna bond much easier than if you took two clean surfaces and started to add flux and solder. So thats what tinning is, basically priming with solder one or more parts youre gonna be soldering together.
@Drxk-fn4 ай бұрын
@@mrg1619 thank you
@Xotic5994 ай бұрын
Is there any other methods than to change the hdmi?
@mrg16194 ай бұрын
So this is a demonstration using soldering iron only. Using SRA fast chip on the pins and anchors to release the port from the board with no damage and then resoldering it. It was meant to demonstrate that can be done with common tool many have laying around. Hot air is what is commonly used however. It does require a bit more caution tho. On a daily basis I myself use this method to remove port and prep the board. The only thing I do different is I use hot air to flow solder down the port anchors. Its a lil faster than holding the hot iron to the anchors and waiting for the solder to flow down the anchors to other side of the board. I apply hot air to assist the iron on that part of it. The solder flows down the anchors easier and in less time. Then solder the pins, cleanup and done. Some techs use a “hot swap” method. They heat the port and that area of the port continuously and pull the port and drop the new one in place all at once. Its way faster than the method I use but I question if its as good a weld due to the way the port just gets dropped in so quick. Proper strong welds require heat applied to the port and the board or a cold weld can occur, a situation where solder doesnt properly bond to the port anchors. With the hot swap method port is not really hot when its dropped in place. I cant say its not a strong proper weld but I cant confirm it is. The method used in this video or with hotair to add solder and flow it down the anchors I can say is solid. So to answer your question…this video demonstrates the iron only way, the other way is with hotair to install and/or remove the port with various techniques.
@deadeye06914 ай бұрын
What is the tool you showed at 19:09? I recently had my joysticks replaced, and the right joystick's x axis is not reaching 1.0 to the right. The controller isn't adjusting for it. What did you use to make it?
@mrg16194 ай бұрын
So that tool I made. I took a metal spudger pry tool and used a dremel tool with a cutting disc to shape it and cut a slot in the end piece. The tool is “3 pcs spudger tool” on amazon. Youll spot it there. Originally a 2 ended skinny metal pry tool. Been using it for years to calibrate to near 0 deadzone after module or pot replacement. The other method is using resistors or variable resistors. Look up “drift fix analog stick” on amazon n youll see lil piece you solder to pins and then adjust the screw.
@cameronclosson38185 ай бұрын
Hey I just fixed mine same right side was having a issue when clicking now moving works but when I click it won’t show
@mrg16195 ай бұрын
Check the 4 solder points to the board. If the pad that you solder to or the trace was damaged you may need to run jumper wire.
@mrg16195 ай бұрын
Check with multimeter that when you press the stick you get continuity acroos the pins for that tactile switch/sensor. Also check tactlie pin to pad/trace continuity. Thatll rule out bad tactile or bad connection to board.
@Jmw477 ай бұрын
Your video doesn’t help at all
@mrg16197 ай бұрын
Yeah to some it is and to some its not. At the end of the day the result speaks for itself tho. This is simply a demo showing how to do with only a soldering iron and low melt. Consulting a reputable local shop is always recommended. Or if youre a well versed tech incorporate hot air into the mix. A good flux, high heat and low melt is your friend. Theres at least a couple things here to pick up for DIYers and seasoned vets too. If you have any questions let me know. Id be happy to help. Just reply in comments
@sheraz13179 ай бұрын
Are you new in this field ? Bro when you are using low melt soldering why does you use heat gun with low temp ?
@mrg16199 ай бұрын
This is simply a demonstration that it can be done with iron only. I definitely ecourage use of hotair if you know what you are doing. I guess I should take into consideration alot of phone techs are now trying to learn HDMI. But yes I usually use hot air to extract as well as to flow solder down anchors on install. This was made to be a DIY video, not to show an experienced tech how. An experienced tech wouldnt normally be here watchin my videos LOL. I may have to make a video using hotair on PS5 and Series X to help fellow techs tryin to learn HDMI tho. Youre not the first to question the method in this video.
@niners4life49ers39 ай бұрын
what website is that you on to see the controls drift and self calibrate?
@mrg16199 ай бұрын
Google gamepad tester
@mrg16199 ай бұрын
So the page doesn’t actually calibrate the controllers, it’s the controller that does this on the series S and X as well as on the elite series 2 controllers, its built in. But on the other controllers you have to calibrate with other methods, and this page allows you to see if you are dialed in or not. It’ll also show you if the analog module is just too worn to calibrate or simply replace a pot sensor n be good to go. It’s a gauge so to speak.
@joseandaya793710 ай бұрын
Poor technician ur about to damage the printed circuit board using just ur force tapping on the hdmi pin.U put a lot of heat on the mother boad aswell which is bad for other electronics components. Dont u have hot air? If im ur client i wnt step on ur door and repair my gadjet.
@mrg161910 ай бұрын
Well youre obviously not very well informed on the amount of heat this mother board soaks up and the amount of heat it takes to reach melting point due to the thickness of the motherboard. Its quite the heat sponge. Yes I have hot air and I use it very often, daily in fact. This video was made to demonstrate that the repair can be done with iron only. Hot air is easier when it comes to flowing solder down the achors of course and thats normally how you would remove and install a port which is how I normally do it. Again this was to show it can be done with just an iron. No youre not gonna damage the board by hitting each individual pin. Been doin this daily since 2010 and I have never damaged a board.
@mrg161910 ай бұрын
Tell me you havent done a PS5 without telling me you havent done a PS5 ; ) Let me tell ya it takes no less that 450-480c with hot air to get the board hot enough to melt the solder holding the anchors. Also good luck using anything less to clear the anchor holes. You would know this if youve done a PS5 or a Series X. Requires a lot of heat. In this video I used iron only and iron only is not enough to get nearby SMDs hot enough to float so to say the board is hot enough to be damaged is incorrect. Hotair on the other hand used to remove/install port (which is the faster way and the way I normally do it) or hot swap creates more heat than in this video. You need at least 450-480c to get the anchor solder to melting point and using hot air radiates to the nearby SMDs so tell me why my iron only will cause damage to the board. Please explain to me.
@saint238511 ай бұрын
That will be mine soon lol
@Macfierce111 ай бұрын
Thank you for this. I'm 1 month beyond the warranty. Its really got me mad. $250 for SONY to fix this senseless problem. I'm just going to do it myself!
@sonyx53326 ай бұрын
A damn robbery
@Drxk-fn4 ай бұрын
Fr there charging me 200
@Andreas-hp3se Жыл бұрын
This is a great video. My left stick is currently sticking on the y axis with a huge dead zone, so it reads randomly in positive or negative y when centered or gets stuck on y values when used. X is fine. I've opened the controller and tried using compressed air to clean out the assembly but not much luck. Any idea what would cause such "stuck" values on a single axis? Replacing the whole thing seems a bit radical to me but I'm not sure what other path I have right now.
@mrg1619 Жыл бұрын
As long as you dont have too much wear on the assembly you can change just the pot. 10k pot is whats needed. What causes drift is usually worn/defective pots. The wiper that makes contact on the inner surface of the pot can be broken or just not enough wiper spring tension to the contact pickup/sensor surface or the contact surface can be excessively worn out. So again you can get away with just swapping the pot as long as the module itself isnt too worn mechanicanically wise.
@ONEPIECE-dw6kv Жыл бұрын
I did replace a new left stick but it's drifting up idk why any help
@mrg1619 Жыл бұрын
If it was on the elite series 2 just move the stick around a few times and it should self calibrate, If it’s still drifting then you may have a defective module or poor solder contact. If all thats good then you can use a variable resistor to assist in centering or bend the arm a bit to manually adjust center.
@EonievesTboneCovers Жыл бұрын
Do you accept repairs? It’s for an Elite 2. How can I email you if so?
@mrg1619 Жыл бұрын
I mostly do local repairs, I have had some items mailed tho. Email me at [email protected] for more info, thx
@samuellee7585 Жыл бұрын
Can you put a regular xbox series x analog stick, non adjustable torque, onto an elite series 2 controller?
@mrg1619 Жыл бұрын
I’ve never tried before or really looked at the differences in thumbstick height so I can’t say for sure it would be compatible but it just might be. The Alps module for regular controllers and Elite series one and PS4 would certainly mount and solder to the series 2 board, but you won’t be able to use the sticks from Series 2 that twist on, you would have to use the elite one style thumbstick or a regular controller plastic thumbstick. Again I think the height might have some implications as to if it fits or not But would certainly mount to the board and have the 10k resistance pots all the same
@HRCFANS93 Жыл бұрын
En el vídeo no puedes ver cómo has quitado la palanca del joystick, cuando estás desmontando la carcasa del mando, ¿cómo has quitado la palanca del joystick?
@mrg1619 Жыл бұрын
Se le da huelta como un tornillo. Si batallas usa unas pinsas con cuidado.
@gonzalezelvis12589 Жыл бұрын
Can I send you mine to fix has the same issue
@mrg1619 Жыл бұрын
Yes I do offer mail in on the controllers. Text me at 5203585458 for info, thx -Joe
@angelus501219 күн бұрын
How much do you charge I can’t get the solder out to save my life
@samp.385 Жыл бұрын
I'm having issues with my ps5 it blinks blue then dies and my TV doesn't pick any signal , do you think it would be the hdmi port?
@mrg1619 Жыл бұрын
Blue light of death on the older gens was typically APU bad or needs reball, bad power supply, southbridge etc. On the PS5 its been all sorts of things. Bad fan, bad power supply, bad hdmi encoder, short somewhere on the board. I think I even seen online something in regard to software. I usually recommend send in on those if I dont find a short somewhere with my thermal cam. Still learning as I go on those.
@jb8478 Жыл бұрын
Great video. You did a very good job at explaining your techniques and even your additional info that didn't really have anything to do with the repair actually answered some of my questions that I had. If you would be up for some advice from a casual KZread watcher, I would say just watch your camera placement as sometimes it would be covering areas you would be explaining. Since I've been inside controllers I knew what you was talking about, but brand new people to fixing controllers might not. Besides that you seem like you'll have a very successful KZread techfix channel if it isn't already (Im watching this video 1 year later since it released). Pretty clear camera zoom, really good explanations, very useful side information, got me to subscribe. Great work dude
@mrg1619 Жыл бұрын
Thanks, yes thats one of the things I definitely wanna work on, camera angle and zoom as well as the presentation. Its a work in progress haha, thanks for watching and thanks for the sub
@jb8478 Жыл бұрын
@@mrg1619 Hey, no problem. The fact that even after a year you still manage to read comments and reply shows you're interested and dedicated to your channel. If you dont mind answering, what kind of flux would you recommend for electronic soldering like in the video (or what you tend to use now)? I'm still fairly new to soldering and I believe not having a good brand of flux is causing some of my heat flow issues.
@mrg1619 Жыл бұрын
@@jb8478 I use Kingbo RMA-218, Ive also used the Amtech NC-559-ASM-TF and yes you are correct flux definitely makes a huge difference in the quality of the work
@steveraymond7277 Жыл бұрын
For a regular xbox controller if a potentiometer is replaced is there any calibration that needs to be done
@mrg1619 Жыл бұрын
Yes unless you get super lucky any authentic ALPS module you replace will need calibration in any controller prior to Series S/X models or Elite 2 as they self calibrate. The Ebay or Amazon knockoff modules also usually need no calibration because their neutral position is more forgiving. In other words the stick isnt as sensitive to that initial movement so it dont really drift. In those knockoffs some are more sensitive than others and you can usually adjust deadzone in the game settings so its not the end of the world, but that also takes away some precision from those down range snipe shots tho as youll have to work harder to center the reticle, kinda like driving a car with worn out linkage, you can turn the wheel left to right and the cars still drivin in the same direction lol is a good example. So youll really have to work harder to dial in on target. Hope this helps, thanks for watchin -Joe
@Gunner3K Жыл бұрын
Hey man @Southwest Console Repair I wonder if you can help me on this, I have this controller and in fact I dont want to replace the sticks but my problem is there @ 2:22 - my left stick keep spinning when I'm regularly playing (not the thumbstick) I keep rotating it back clockwise but after short time it spins counter clockwise and I really dont want to send this back to manufacture, I just hope you can tell me what I'm supposed to do with this and why is it not locking when I screw it back?
@mrg1619 Жыл бұрын
So the thumbstick base actually screws onto a threaded post. Those threads may be a lil worn. You would need to replace the module and/or the base of thumbstick. Or if you feel its up to your skillset and dont mind it being locked in one place you could add a dab of loctite to the threaded post on the analog then screw the base on it. Loctite will keep it in place. Only con is wont be able to select tension. I personally dont use the tension. I got mine screwed all the way in.
@Gunner3K Жыл бұрын
@@mrg1619I guess Imma lock it, thats a good idea actually, thank you very much for the video, the reply and your time!
@mrg1619 Жыл бұрын
@@Gunner3K welcome
@harrysmith5353 Жыл бұрын
Do more videos . You have a knack for it
@mrg1619 Жыл бұрын
Thank you Harry, I gave it a go to show I was competent to take care of the repairs they needed. Also to help out the community, I plan to do the Series S and X HDMI port replacement vids next. Took a lil away time as my camera guy aka stepson got a full time gig n doesnt have much time. Im gonna see how I do with a tripod haha. Thanks for the kind words.
@harrysmith5353 Жыл бұрын
@@mrg1619 ahh it looks easy when you do it and explain it but from experiance it isnt . Bought aload of soldering equitment meself and some broken items going to have a go and learn myself . Keep it up bud ill be on the lookout for when you post. P.s get a discord .
@FunStations2 жыл бұрын
I use a translator, thank you very much!! if you know for sure, tell me on your video 3 minutes 13 seconds (pause) there are 2 blue plates, you don’t touch them, tell me how to remove the blue plate ??? Thanks!! there are 2 screws on the blue plate, I unscrewed them, but the blue plate sits in place.
@mrg16192 жыл бұрын
The paddle board?
@minimell_89102 жыл бұрын
So you're saying that the controller that came with the Series X will automatically calibrate itself? I need to replace the stick in the left of the controller, and was gonna buy the replacement off ifixit. Once I replace, I won't need to calibrate or anything? Just move it around a bit? Or do I have to buy a special joystick for the auto calibration?
@mrg16192 жыл бұрын
Yes once you replace with new one and move the stick around a few times on S/X or Elite 2 itll self calibrate. But old worn sticks or bad pots will not. Older controllers like Elite 1 and original xbox one controllers require calibration
@glenngray26582 жыл бұрын
p̷r̷o̷m̷o̷s̷m̷
@ustadmunwar18912 жыл бұрын
Hi
@rendelecollins78002 жыл бұрын
Honestly this is probably the best fix it channel
@mrg16199 ай бұрын
Appreciate that
@HaydenVanced2 жыл бұрын
What tin/lead solder wire do you use?
@mrg16192 жыл бұрын
.032" No-Clean Core Flux 62/36/2
@MikeHoncho8D2 жыл бұрын
Ordering a Scuff, so I'm about to do this to my clapped out elite 2 with sloppy sticks. Figure the worst thing I can do is mess up a controller I won't use anymore anyway. Great video. Wouldn't mind seeing the calibration side for the elite 1 as I have one of those too.
@kirkmoses2 жыл бұрын
I have the Hakko 301. I’m using your technique, but I’m still having trouble getting all the solder to come off. I cannot get the damn analog sensor to come out. What size tip are you using on your Hakko 301? What temperature are you at?
@mrg16192 жыл бұрын
Hi Kirk, stock tip I think is a 1mm, I was using that originally but it kinda was a tight fit on the anchors, In this vid Im using the N61-10 1.6 mm tip. Works fantastic. Im using SRA fast chip but chipquik or any of those will do. Add flux n hit the fast chip with your iron first at like 400 on all pins/anchors. Then come with Fr-301 at 400-450 and hold it over the pin/anchor just a second or 2 and then squeeze that trigger. If the analog doesnt slide right out, do flux lowmelt with iron once more, slightly wiggle them anchors n pins while heating the fastchip to ensure its dropping down the hole to other side because sometimes there will be some holdout original solder lurkin. With the high temps just be careful, dont let the iron or gun stay on the board longer than needed. For resoldering I use 420 on the anchors long enough to flow solder down holes, then use 350 on the pins very quickly as to not damage the pots. Let me know if this helped. Thanks for checkin out my vid.
@kirkmoses2 жыл бұрын
Thank You for getting back to me. Thinking I need a slightly bigger tip and a little more heat. I got a pair of analogs out of an Elite 2 last night, YAY! It took a couple rounds of resolder and desolder but they finally slipped out. Just need to fine tune my steps. You got me over the hump on this one, thanks again!!!
@Costinmusca2 жыл бұрын
Pff.. if they're not damaged, just keep the original potentiometers at all costs.. :| Simply snap them away from the stick assy and replace only that (mechanical) part/assy..
@mrg16192 жыл бұрын
Yes youre right some aftermarket assemblies have crappy parts so best to use OEM ALPS if possible. Know youre supplier n dont just buy some Amazon special for sure. The ones used in the vid I cant say are OEM for sure but are definitely good and havent had any returns yet. On the original (non threaded) sticks on previous models I always resupply OEM thru mouser. These Elite 2 sticks in particular havent been released thru mouser unfortunately.
@Costinmusca2 жыл бұрын
@@mrg1619 I'm mostly saying this because of the calibration on the individual controller, quality aside. It's now helpful with the Elite controllers and newer XB controllers that you have some dynamic calibration, but that is still based on the initial values stored since the pad left production line, thus based on the original pots values. Changing the default center will also change the linearity of the off-center left/right values and unless you'd plot those values to a graph it's unlikely you'd notice anything bad with just a quick test, but you'd "feel the stick" not "aiming" like with the original while trying to actually play something more.. demanding. Most people would not feel much difference and if they would, they'd only attribute it to having a bad day for gaming (as one does) Keeping the original pots, provided they're not faulty would only leave the mechanical parts tolerance to be a factor into needing any calibration after the swap and since you'd use a brand new, genuine part, that tolerance should be minimal, thus unnoticeable (even to a plotted graph)
@mrg16192 жыл бұрын
@@Costinmusca yeah youre definitely right about that, closest to original resistance on the pots and OE pots is best. Good info, thanks for sharing
@lemonbalm_tea Жыл бұрын
@@mrg1619 thanks so much for the awesome video, I learned so much. Which part do you get from mouser for the xbox series x controller analog stick?
@mrg1619 Жыл бұрын
@@lemonbalm_tea I ordered a bunch of these last year, dont think these in particular are available no more tho. Theres is a new one I ordered a couple of but I havent verified fitment/compatibility or tried out just yet, still workin thru the stock I have of these ones I ordered last year sometime. www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Alps-Alpine/RKJXV1224005?qs=RiQAlOPxzzAqLSX9lUzx8Q%3D%3D I ll add a link to the others I havent tested just yet on another reply but if I recall correctly specs are similar. Need to revisit to verify.
@getit71072 жыл бұрын
Applying torque to the side post that sticks into the potentiometers metal disk is key for anyone trying to center their analog on all the other more basic controllers. I've watched so many videos to know how to do a proper analog replacement if needed. One of the more in depth videos on this. 👏🏻👏🏻
@mrg16192 жыл бұрын
Yes for sure, on the older controllers thats the method I actually use for zeroing in a newly installed joystick, I created a tool thats kinda like a fork that grabs that arm n bends it. Some guys clip the plastic nubs on the pot then zero in by twisting and soldering in that position once its good, others solder resistors to the pins. I like to just bend the arm that goes into pot as youve mentioned. I stick a lil flathead into the hole near the joystick to help support plastic from bending while I torque on the outside arm til it zeros in.
@corkey7412 жыл бұрын
Great video. Could you share what soldering iron you use?
@mrg16192 жыл бұрын
The setup is Aoyue Int 2900, the desoldering gun is Hakko Fr-301 Low melt is SRA Fastchip. Can use chipquik and regular solder sucker along with braid to do the job as well
@_mylastname2 жыл бұрын
I'm a beginner, but I pulled this off only because I practiced on series x and fixed all 19 pads and 9 trace wires on that one.. The ps5 seems a bit more difficult because of that header.. And the capacitor in the way and the diode on other side..I just finished my ps5 but I'm still not getting image... The encoder seems ok, given that there's no shorts in the caps around it.. So now I'm kinda lost. Not sure what to check at this point..
@mrg16192 жыл бұрын
Gently pick at the pins to board to verify theyre soldered good, run continuity test from pins to destination point of traces down the board, sometimes can be a crack in the via that leads away from the pad, if you have a hdmi breakout board check from the breakout boards pads to the end of via destination point.
@_mylastname2 жыл бұрын
@@mrg1619 whats an HDMI breakout board? I did the continuity test between pins, but I'll track each pin down their traces, good idea!..I know the coils are good👍. Thanks!
@mrg16192 жыл бұрын
@@_mylastname its basically a way to test hdmi input at the port to the board, tells you if the port is bad also, although really rare a port can be defective. Ive had one or 2 that I replaced the port n then all the sudden all was good, again really rare but a great way to test from the source side to the receiving end
@@_mylastname yes other thing to check is for solder bridges under port, checking continuity pin to neighboring pin is a good indicator/method to check if theres solder that flowed under port to multiple pins, so if checked that kudos to you
@DerekKopet2 жыл бұрын
awesome video. I'm going to give this a go. Where did you buy your analoge modules from?
A list of equipment in the video description would be useful. I attempted this fix and I'm pretty sure I ruined the main board. The struggle I ran into is my iron would NOT melt the solder on the port. I cranked the heat up and it just started melting everything but the solder. I read over suggestions to keep a clean tip / tinned, add Flux, use lower temp solder to lower its melting temp, etc... I still can't tell what I did wrong. By all accounts it was exactly what you showed in the video the only difference being that it seemed easier when you did it 😂
@mrg16192 жыл бұрын
Im sorry to hear that, I used aoyue Int 2900 iron station with stock large tip on high heat 470c with sra lowmelt and kingbo flux for port removal. Also used same to flow solder down anchors to install. Used a smaller tip at 420c for install on pins although the stock tip can also be used on pins to install. I used aoyue Int 968 hotair station with a 10mm nozzle set to 400-420c at 4 or 5 airflow to remove the decoupling cap. All this can be done with iron only as was kinda the point of the video with the exception of the shortcut I took on the small cap. Alternately hotair and lowmelt can be used to remove the port. You can also run hotair in assistance to your iron on the anchors to help that solder flow down the holes easier upon install. My equipment has been good to me but there are many alternatives. For iron stations I would suggest hakko, for hotair the quick 861DW is nice. Kingbo is a good flux if get the real thing. Amtech is also great. 62/36/2 is the solder I use, gives it a nice shiny finish and great to work with. I went into as much detail as possible in the video including the temps and methods. Sometimes equipment varies in temps, some say they put out such n such heat but fall short. This board definitely requires alot of heat and assuming you used the methods I demonstrated you should have been successful as long your equipment was up to par. Best wishes, keep pushin forward, we all have had our days where we struggled but now its the daily breeze. ✌🏼
@micahkelly26202 жыл бұрын
@@mrg1619 overall the video was excellent and quite descriptive which is why I chose to use it for my repair. I'm still hopeful that the high heat didn't damage the microscopic components next to the HDMI port. They're very very close. What is that a diode? I also somehow smeared a bunch of solder on the larger copper area, though I don't think it'll cause problems other than being really ugly and kind of embarrassing. I guess it serves me right trying to learn how to solder on somehting a bit more advanced.
@mrg16192 жыл бұрын
@@micahkelly2620 as long as you didnt lift pads or lose components you should be in good shape. Then again even that is repairable tho. Dont worry about a lil silver gettin on the copper, just braid it best as can. Thats just cosmetic flaw. Will not affect anything. The lil booger by the pins is a 100pF (0.1uf) 0201 5% - Decoupling Capacitor if ya ever need one… sourcelyplus.com/collections/playstation-5/products/hdmi-port-decoupling-capacitor-5-pack
@HundoBuck2 жыл бұрын
Exact problem im having what do i do i removed the port perfectly fine but i can clear out the solder to the put the new port in
@HundoBuck2 жыл бұрын
Cant**
@PamSesheta2 жыл бұрын
Good tear down, lots of nice info. Wow big solder blobs, tho
@mrg16192 жыл бұрын
Thx, yeah definitely not necessary, I always do tho lol, 1 it confirms for me that the solder flowed down the anchor or pin, the other reason I do it is..although I document by serial number the repairs, its my trademark of sort, verifies its my work and also which module was swapped. I give one year warranty which is nuts so that one way I know “yep thats my work” haha I do same on my hdmi ports, actually bridging the 4 anchors on both sides of board as well
@lonreed97432 жыл бұрын
I’m currently doing this for a friends PS5. I’ve worked on Dreamcast, WiiU Pad, and dozens of 360s and Xbox One. I love a good challenge.
@mrg16192 жыл бұрын
Awesome! Good luck with it!
@tylerp21542 жыл бұрын
By far one of the best repair vids for elite series 2 in youtube...I wish I came across this before I ruined the green motherboard on mine trying to fix a joystick module...and thank you for explaining the calibration piece. Thanks for the vid...and I will subscribe!
@mrg16192 жыл бұрын
Thx Tyler
@SRT8JT2 жыл бұрын
Ayooo joe
@rogerorozco54902 жыл бұрын
Keep up the good work!
@mrg16192 жыл бұрын
Thx Roger
@PokeInform2 жыл бұрын
What equipment would I need for this?
@mrg16192 жыл бұрын
Youll need a security bit T8 or T9. You need a hotair station, a soldering station or combo of the both. A microscope is recommended. I suggest using a lowmelt solder like chipquik and good flux like amtech or what I use is kingbo. Youll need decent solder, solder wick, cotton swabs and 99 isopropyl for cleanup. The liquid silver can be reused but if you need some, grizzly makes a good one. Most of all tho is patience and hopefully some soldering experience. If this is a first timer job for you in regard to soldering or using the mentioned equipment you definitely want to practice on broken consoles first or consider having a reputable shop take the job on.
@mazinalmaimani72912 жыл бұрын
😍 great job, how much would cost ? And is it the same hdmi port that supports 8k resolution for future ps5 updates? Thanks
@mrg16192 жыл бұрын
Hi Mazin I really only do local repair in Tucson AZ, Reason being is cost of shipping and the liability in regard to handling. There are plenty of local shops that can assist you however. Im a member of Console Repair Legion and we may have a tech near you to assist, check out the list of approved shops here repairlegion.com/repair
@_mylastname2 жыл бұрын
The port may support 8k, but the HDMI encoder chip won't, if it does, it probably won't to the 120hz we all want...
@Aj2solidfr2 жыл бұрын
I recently broke my ps5 hdmi and not trying to get in trouble can you tell me if it’s cheaper to get it done or do it yourself and is it hard for a beginner
@mrg16192 жыл бұрын
Its definitely not a job for a first timer, the disassembly is medium difficulty for even someone experienced that first time they open it, theres alot of screws, the soldering process is definitely not easy. The recommended equipment cost couple hundred at least. There are reputable shops that can help you get it done locally, you can call and find out what they are askin for the job. Just make sure they got good reviews and whatnot.
Пікірлер
Great fix! ❤
Thx so much
Were you using solder iron with heat gun attached to desolder ? If you havent used heat gun to desolder, why not ? Thanks for your response.
Hi, I use hot air. This was simply to demonstrate that it could be done with just an iron, normally I used just the iron and low melt to remove the port, but then I use hot air to flow solder down the anchors when installing the port.
@@mrg1619 Is that a heat gun with iron attached at 12:50 ?
@@ibrahimahmed6454 regular iron with fume extractor
What size nozzle are you using here?
Hi, so the stock nozzle on the FR301 is like 1.0mm and its too small, I used the N61-10 (1.6mm) in this video and its ok but I am currently using the N61-17 which is a 2.3mm and it works awesome, nice large bore so it takes all the solder up easily and can be cleaned easier too. Heat setting to 3.5 but use good amount of flux n go fast so you dont burn board
Thanks alot my guy im an electrician and learned soldering while in school but even i had a hard time with this especially getting that pesky bad hdmi port to come out... I've heard people say its tough but damn! Lol 😅 you saved me a couple 100 bucks
You are welcome, yes low melt for the win! Glad you got it sorted, glad to help!
Quick question is the thing you use a 17:37 tin
So sra fast chip low temp solder is used to blend with the lead free factory solder making it alot easier to remove the damaged port and clear the holes. Heres the thing tho…you dont wanna leave any trace amount of that sra fast chip on the motherboard during cleanup because once you start to solder your new port on it will make for a weaker weld. So you wanna clean with braid thorougly. Then tin the pads with regular solder and clean with braid once more. Then tin the pads on the board again with regular solder. Then place your port and start soldering away. Tinning refers to adding a regular solder to whatever your soldering. Its kinda like priming the parts so its easier to get the bonding process going. Some people lightly tin the anchors of the port and the pins on the port as well. I personally only do the pads on the board. See once youve tinned anything once you give it a lil flux and heat its gonna bond much easier than if you took two clean surfaces and started to add flux and solder. So thats what tinning is, basically priming with solder one or more parts youre gonna be soldering together.
@@mrg1619 thank you
Is there any other methods than to change the hdmi?
So this is a demonstration using soldering iron only. Using SRA fast chip on the pins and anchors to release the port from the board with no damage and then resoldering it. It was meant to demonstrate that can be done with common tool many have laying around. Hot air is what is commonly used however. It does require a bit more caution tho. On a daily basis I myself use this method to remove port and prep the board. The only thing I do different is I use hot air to flow solder down the port anchors. Its a lil faster than holding the hot iron to the anchors and waiting for the solder to flow down the anchors to other side of the board. I apply hot air to assist the iron on that part of it. The solder flows down the anchors easier and in less time. Then solder the pins, cleanup and done. Some techs use a “hot swap” method. They heat the port and that area of the port continuously and pull the port and drop the new one in place all at once. Its way faster than the method I use but I question if its as good a weld due to the way the port just gets dropped in so quick. Proper strong welds require heat applied to the port and the board or a cold weld can occur, a situation where solder doesnt properly bond to the port anchors. With the hot swap method port is not really hot when its dropped in place. I cant say its not a strong proper weld but I cant confirm it is. The method used in this video or with hotair to add solder and flow it down the anchors I can say is solid. So to answer your question…this video demonstrates the iron only way, the other way is with hotair to install and/or remove the port with various techniques.
What is the tool you showed at 19:09? I recently had my joysticks replaced, and the right joystick's x axis is not reaching 1.0 to the right. The controller isn't adjusting for it. What did you use to make it?
So that tool I made. I took a metal spudger pry tool and used a dremel tool with a cutting disc to shape it and cut a slot in the end piece. The tool is “3 pcs spudger tool” on amazon. Youll spot it there. Originally a 2 ended skinny metal pry tool. Been using it for years to calibrate to near 0 deadzone after module or pot replacement. The other method is using resistors or variable resistors. Look up “drift fix analog stick” on amazon n youll see lil piece you solder to pins and then adjust the screw.
Hey I just fixed mine same right side was having a issue when clicking now moving works but when I click it won’t show
Check the 4 solder points to the board. If the pad that you solder to or the trace was damaged you may need to run jumper wire.
Check with multimeter that when you press the stick you get continuity acroos the pins for that tactile switch/sensor. Also check tactlie pin to pad/trace continuity. Thatll rule out bad tactile or bad connection to board.
Your video doesn’t help at all
Yeah to some it is and to some its not. At the end of the day the result speaks for itself tho. This is simply a demo showing how to do with only a soldering iron and low melt. Consulting a reputable local shop is always recommended. Or if youre a well versed tech incorporate hot air into the mix. A good flux, high heat and low melt is your friend. Theres at least a couple things here to pick up for DIYers and seasoned vets too. If you have any questions let me know. Id be happy to help. Just reply in comments
Are you new in this field ? Bro when you are using low melt soldering why does you use heat gun with low temp ?
This is simply a demonstration that it can be done with iron only. I definitely ecourage use of hotair if you know what you are doing. I guess I should take into consideration alot of phone techs are now trying to learn HDMI. But yes I usually use hot air to extract as well as to flow solder down anchors on install. This was made to be a DIY video, not to show an experienced tech how. An experienced tech wouldnt normally be here watchin my videos LOL. I may have to make a video using hotair on PS5 and Series X to help fellow techs tryin to learn HDMI tho. Youre not the first to question the method in this video.
what website is that you on to see the controls drift and self calibrate?
Google gamepad tester
So the page doesn’t actually calibrate the controllers, it’s the controller that does this on the series S and X as well as on the elite series 2 controllers, its built in. But on the other controllers you have to calibrate with other methods, and this page allows you to see if you are dialed in or not. It’ll also show you if the analog module is just too worn to calibrate or simply replace a pot sensor n be good to go. It’s a gauge so to speak.
Poor technician ur about to damage the printed circuit board using just ur force tapping on the hdmi pin.U put a lot of heat on the mother boad aswell which is bad for other electronics components. Dont u have hot air? If im ur client i wnt step on ur door and repair my gadjet.
Well youre obviously not very well informed on the amount of heat this mother board soaks up and the amount of heat it takes to reach melting point due to the thickness of the motherboard. Its quite the heat sponge. Yes I have hot air and I use it very often, daily in fact. This video was made to demonstrate that the repair can be done with iron only. Hot air is easier when it comes to flowing solder down the achors of course and thats normally how you would remove and install a port which is how I normally do it. Again this was to show it can be done with just an iron. No youre not gonna damage the board by hitting each individual pin. Been doin this daily since 2010 and I have never damaged a board.
Tell me you havent done a PS5 without telling me you havent done a PS5 ; ) Let me tell ya it takes no less that 450-480c with hot air to get the board hot enough to melt the solder holding the anchors. Also good luck using anything less to clear the anchor holes. You would know this if youve done a PS5 or a Series X. Requires a lot of heat. In this video I used iron only and iron only is not enough to get nearby SMDs hot enough to float so to say the board is hot enough to be damaged is incorrect. Hotair on the other hand used to remove/install port (which is the faster way and the way I normally do it) or hot swap creates more heat than in this video. You need at least 450-480c to get the anchor solder to melting point and using hot air radiates to the nearby SMDs so tell me why my iron only will cause damage to the board. Please explain to me.
That will be mine soon lol
Thank you for this. I'm 1 month beyond the warranty. Its really got me mad. $250 for SONY to fix this senseless problem. I'm just going to do it myself!
A damn robbery
Fr there charging me 200
This is a great video. My left stick is currently sticking on the y axis with a huge dead zone, so it reads randomly in positive or negative y when centered or gets stuck on y values when used. X is fine. I've opened the controller and tried using compressed air to clean out the assembly but not much luck. Any idea what would cause such "stuck" values on a single axis? Replacing the whole thing seems a bit radical to me but I'm not sure what other path I have right now.
As long as you dont have too much wear on the assembly you can change just the pot. 10k pot is whats needed. What causes drift is usually worn/defective pots. The wiper that makes contact on the inner surface of the pot can be broken or just not enough wiper spring tension to the contact pickup/sensor surface or the contact surface can be excessively worn out. So again you can get away with just swapping the pot as long as the module itself isnt too worn mechanicanically wise.
I did replace a new left stick but it's drifting up idk why any help
If it was on the elite series 2 just move the stick around a few times and it should self calibrate, If it’s still drifting then you may have a defective module or poor solder contact. If all thats good then you can use a variable resistor to assist in centering or bend the arm a bit to manually adjust center.
Do you accept repairs? It’s for an Elite 2. How can I email you if so?
I mostly do local repairs, I have had some items mailed tho. Email me at [email protected] for more info, thx
Can you put a regular xbox series x analog stick, non adjustable torque, onto an elite series 2 controller?
I’ve never tried before or really looked at the differences in thumbstick height so I can’t say for sure it would be compatible but it just might be. The Alps module for regular controllers and Elite series one and PS4 would certainly mount and solder to the series 2 board, but you won’t be able to use the sticks from Series 2 that twist on, you would have to use the elite one style thumbstick or a regular controller plastic thumbstick. Again I think the height might have some implications as to if it fits or not But would certainly mount to the board and have the 10k resistance pots all the same
En el vídeo no puedes ver cómo has quitado la palanca del joystick, cuando estás desmontando la carcasa del mando, ¿cómo has quitado la palanca del joystick?
Se le da huelta como un tornillo. Si batallas usa unas pinsas con cuidado.
Can I send you mine to fix has the same issue
Yes I do offer mail in on the controllers. Text me at 5203585458 for info, thx -Joe
How much do you charge I can’t get the solder out to save my life
I'm having issues with my ps5 it blinks blue then dies and my TV doesn't pick any signal , do you think it would be the hdmi port?
Blue light of death on the older gens was typically APU bad or needs reball, bad power supply, southbridge etc. On the PS5 its been all sorts of things. Bad fan, bad power supply, bad hdmi encoder, short somewhere on the board. I think I even seen online something in regard to software. I usually recommend send in on those if I dont find a short somewhere with my thermal cam. Still learning as I go on those.
Great video. You did a very good job at explaining your techniques and even your additional info that didn't really have anything to do with the repair actually answered some of my questions that I had. If you would be up for some advice from a casual KZread watcher, I would say just watch your camera placement as sometimes it would be covering areas you would be explaining. Since I've been inside controllers I knew what you was talking about, but brand new people to fixing controllers might not. Besides that you seem like you'll have a very successful KZread techfix channel if it isn't already (Im watching this video 1 year later since it released). Pretty clear camera zoom, really good explanations, very useful side information, got me to subscribe. Great work dude
Thanks, yes thats one of the things I definitely wanna work on, camera angle and zoom as well as the presentation. Its a work in progress haha, thanks for watching and thanks for the sub
@@mrg1619 Hey, no problem. The fact that even after a year you still manage to read comments and reply shows you're interested and dedicated to your channel. If you dont mind answering, what kind of flux would you recommend for electronic soldering like in the video (or what you tend to use now)? I'm still fairly new to soldering and I believe not having a good brand of flux is causing some of my heat flow issues.
@@jb8478 I use Kingbo RMA-218, Ive also used the Amtech NC-559-ASM-TF and yes you are correct flux definitely makes a huge difference in the quality of the work
For a regular xbox controller if a potentiometer is replaced is there any calibration that needs to be done
Yes unless you get super lucky any authentic ALPS module you replace will need calibration in any controller prior to Series S/X models or Elite 2 as they self calibrate. The Ebay or Amazon knockoff modules also usually need no calibration because their neutral position is more forgiving. In other words the stick isnt as sensitive to that initial movement so it dont really drift. In those knockoffs some are more sensitive than others and you can usually adjust deadzone in the game settings so its not the end of the world, but that also takes away some precision from those down range snipe shots tho as youll have to work harder to center the reticle, kinda like driving a car with worn out linkage, you can turn the wheel left to right and the cars still drivin in the same direction lol is a good example. So youll really have to work harder to dial in on target. Hope this helps, thanks for watchin -Joe
Hey man @Southwest Console Repair I wonder if you can help me on this, I have this controller and in fact I dont want to replace the sticks but my problem is there @ 2:22 - my left stick keep spinning when I'm regularly playing (not the thumbstick) I keep rotating it back clockwise but after short time it spins counter clockwise and I really dont want to send this back to manufacture, I just hope you can tell me what I'm supposed to do with this and why is it not locking when I screw it back?
So the thumbstick base actually screws onto a threaded post. Those threads may be a lil worn. You would need to replace the module and/or the base of thumbstick. Or if you feel its up to your skillset and dont mind it being locked in one place you could add a dab of loctite to the threaded post on the analog then screw the base on it. Loctite will keep it in place. Only con is wont be able to select tension. I personally dont use the tension. I got mine screwed all the way in.
@@mrg1619I guess Imma lock it, thats a good idea actually, thank you very much for the video, the reply and your time!
@@Gunner3K welcome
Do more videos . You have a knack for it
Thank you Harry, I gave it a go to show I was competent to take care of the repairs they needed. Also to help out the community, I plan to do the Series S and X HDMI port replacement vids next. Took a lil away time as my camera guy aka stepson got a full time gig n doesnt have much time. Im gonna see how I do with a tripod haha. Thanks for the kind words.
@@mrg1619 ahh it looks easy when you do it and explain it but from experiance it isnt . Bought aload of soldering equitment meself and some broken items going to have a go and learn myself . Keep it up bud ill be on the lookout for when you post. P.s get a discord .
I use a translator, thank you very much!! if you know for sure, tell me on your video 3 minutes 13 seconds (pause) there are 2 blue plates, you don’t touch them, tell me how to remove the blue plate ??? Thanks!! there are 2 screws on the blue plate, I unscrewed them, but the blue plate sits in place.
The paddle board?
So you're saying that the controller that came with the Series X will automatically calibrate itself? I need to replace the stick in the left of the controller, and was gonna buy the replacement off ifixit. Once I replace, I won't need to calibrate or anything? Just move it around a bit? Or do I have to buy a special joystick for the auto calibration?
Yes once you replace with new one and move the stick around a few times on S/X or Elite 2 itll self calibrate. But old worn sticks or bad pots will not. Older controllers like Elite 1 and original xbox one controllers require calibration
p̷r̷o̷m̷o̷s̷m̷
Hi
Honestly this is probably the best fix it channel
Appreciate that
What tin/lead solder wire do you use?
.032" No-Clean Core Flux 62/36/2
Ordering a Scuff, so I'm about to do this to my clapped out elite 2 with sloppy sticks. Figure the worst thing I can do is mess up a controller I won't use anymore anyway. Great video. Wouldn't mind seeing the calibration side for the elite 1 as I have one of those too.
I have the Hakko 301. I’m using your technique, but I’m still having trouble getting all the solder to come off. I cannot get the damn analog sensor to come out. What size tip are you using on your Hakko 301? What temperature are you at?
Hi Kirk, stock tip I think is a 1mm, I was using that originally but it kinda was a tight fit on the anchors, In this vid Im using the N61-10 1.6 mm tip. Works fantastic. Im using SRA fast chip but chipquik or any of those will do. Add flux n hit the fast chip with your iron first at like 400 on all pins/anchors. Then come with Fr-301 at 400-450 and hold it over the pin/anchor just a second or 2 and then squeeze that trigger. If the analog doesnt slide right out, do flux lowmelt with iron once more, slightly wiggle them anchors n pins while heating the fastchip to ensure its dropping down the hole to other side because sometimes there will be some holdout original solder lurkin. With the high temps just be careful, dont let the iron or gun stay on the board longer than needed. For resoldering I use 420 on the anchors long enough to flow solder down holes, then use 350 on the pins very quickly as to not damage the pots. Let me know if this helped. Thanks for checkin out my vid.
Thank You for getting back to me. Thinking I need a slightly bigger tip and a little more heat. I got a pair of analogs out of an Elite 2 last night, YAY! It took a couple rounds of resolder and desolder but they finally slipped out. Just need to fine tune my steps. You got me over the hump on this one, thanks again!!!
Pff.. if they're not damaged, just keep the original potentiometers at all costs.. :| Simply snap them away from the stick assy and replace only that (mechanical) part/assy..
Yes youre right some aftermarket assemblies have crappy parts so best to use OEM ALPS if possible. Know youre supplier n dont just buy some Amazon special for sure. The ones used in the vid I cant say are OEM for sure but are definitely good and havent had any returns yet. On the original (non threaded) sticks on previous models I always resupply OEM thru mouser. These Elite 2 sticks in particular havent been released thru mouser unfortunately.
@@mrg1619 I'm mostly saying this because of the calibration on the individual controller, quality aside. It's now helpful with the Elite controllers and newer XB controllers that you have some dynamic calibration, but that is still based on the initial values stored since the pad left production line, thus based on the original pots values. Changing the default center will also change the linearity of the off-center left/right values and unless you'd plot those values to a graph it's unlikely you'd notice anything bad with just a quick test, but you'd "feel the stick" not "aiming" like with the original while trying to actually play something more.. demanding. Most people would not feel much difference and if they would, they'd only attribute it to having a bad day for gaming (as one does) Keeping the original pots, provided they're not faulty would only leave the mechanical parts tolerance to be a factor into needing any calibration after the swap and since you'd use a brand new, genuine part, that tolerance should be minimal, thus unnoticeable (even to a plotted graph)
@@Costinmusca yeah youre definitely right about that, closest to original resistance on the pots and OE pots is best. Good info, thanks for sharing
@@mrg1619 thanks so much for the awesome video, I learned so much. Which part do you get from mouser for the xbox series x controller analog stick?
@@lemonbalm_tea I ordered a bunch of these last year, dont think these in particular are available no more tho. Theres is a new one I ordered a couple of but I havent verified fitment/compatibility or tried out just yet, still workin thru the stock I have of these ones I ordered last year sometime. www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Alps-Alpine/RKJXV1224005?qs=RiQAlOPxzzAqLSX9lUzx8Q%3D%3D I ll add a link to the others I havent tested just yet on another reply but if I recall correctly specs are similar. Need to revisit to verify.
Applying torque to the side post that sticks into the potentiometers metal disk is key for anyone trying to center their analog on all the other more basic controllers. I've watched so many videos to know how to do a proper analog replacement if needed. One of the more in depth videos on this. 👏🏻👏🏻
Yes for sure, on the older controllers thats the method I actually use for zeroing in a newly installed joystick, I created a tool thats kinda like a fork that grabs that arm n bends it. Some guys clip the plastic nubs on the pot then zero in by twisting and soldering in that position once its good, others solder resistors to the pins. I like to just bend the arm that goes into pot as youve mentioned. I stick a lil flathead into the hole near the joystick to help support plastic from bending while I torque on the outside arm til it zeros in.
Great video. Could you share what soldering iron you use?
The setup is Aoyue Int 2900, the desoldering gun is Hakko Fr-301 Low melt is SRA Fastchip. Can use chipquik and regular solder sucker along with braid to do the job as well
I'm a beginner, but I pulled this off only because I practiced on series x and fixed all 19 pads and 9 trace wires on that one.. The ps5 seems a bit more difficult because of that header.. And the capacitor in the way and the diode on other side..I just finished my ps5 but I'm still not getting image... The encoder seems ok, given that there's no shorts in the caps around it.. So now I'm kinda lost. Not sure what to check at this point..
Gently pick at the pins to board to verify theyre soldered good, run continuity test from pins to destination point of traces down the board, sometimes can be a crack in the via that leads away from the pad, if you have a hdmi breakout board check from the breakout boards pads to the end of via destination point.
@@mrg1619 whats an HDMI breakout board? I did the continuity test between pins, but I'll track each pin down their traces, good idea!..I know the coils are good👍. Thanks!
@@_mylastname its basically a way to test hdmi input at the port to the board, tells you if the port is bad also, although really rare a port can be defective. Ive had one or 2 that I replaced the port n then all the sudden all was good, again really rare but a great way to test from the source side to the receiving end
@@_mylastname HDMI Plug Breakout Board www.amazon.com/dp/B075Q99J9J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6CGH6J6YNJWBK5VFNZPW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
@@_mylastname yes other thing to check is for solder bridges under port, checking continuity pin to neighboring pin is a good indicator/method to check if theres solder that flowed under port to multiple pins, so if checked that kudos to you
awesome video. I'm going to give this a go. Where did you buy your analoge modules from?
www.ebay.com/itm/Replacement-Analog-Joystick-Thumbstick-For-Xbox-One-Elite-2-Wireless-Controller-/233686117785?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
Thanks Derek
A list of equipment in the video description would be useful. I attempted this fix and I'm pretty sure I ruined the main board. The struggle I ran into is my iron would NOT melt the solder on the port. I cranked the heat up and it just started melting everything but the solder. I read over suggestions to keep a clean tip / tinned, add Flux, use lower temp solder to lower its melting temp, etc... I still can't tell what I did wrong. By all accounts it was exactly what you showed in the video the only difference being that it seemed easier when you did it 😂
Im sorry to hear that, I used aoyue Int 2900 iron station with stock large tip on high heat 470c with sra lowmelt and kingbo flux for port removal. Also used same to flow solder down anchors to install. Used a smaller tip at 420c for install on pins although the stock tip can also be used on pins to install. I used aoyue Int 968 hotair station with a 10mm nozzle set to 400-420c at 4 or 5 airflow to remove the decoupling cap. All this can be done with iron only as was kinda the point of the video with the exception of the shortcut I took on the small cap. Alternately hotair and lowmelt can be used to remove the port. You can also run hotair in assistance to your iron on the anchors to help that solder flow down the holes easier upon install. My equipment has been good to me but there are many alternatives. For iron stations I would suggest hakko, for hotair the quick 861DW is nice. Kingbo is a good flux if get the real thing. Amtech is also great. 62/36/2 is the solder I use, gives it a nice shiny finish and great to work with. I went into as much detail as possible in the video including the temps and methods. Sometimes equipment varies in temps, some say they put out such n such heat but fall short. This board definitely requires alot of heat and assuming you used the methods I demonstrated you should have been successful as long your equipment was up to par. Best wishes, keep pushin forward, we all have had our days where we struggled but now its the daily breeze. ✌🏼
@@mrg1619 overall the video was excellent and quite descriptive which is why I chose to use it for my repair. I'm still hopeful that the high heat didn't damage the microscopic components next to the HDMI port. They're very very close. What is that a diode? I also somehow smeared a bunch of solder on the larger copper area, though I don't think it'll cause problems other than being really ugly and kind of embarrassing. I guess it serves me right trying to learn how to solder on somehting a bit more advanced.
@@micahkelly2620 as long as you didnt lift pads or lose components you should be in good shape. Then again even that is repairable tho. Dont worry about a lil silver gettin on the copper, just braid it best as can. Thats just cosmetic flaw. Will not affect anything. The lil booger by the pins is a 100pF (0.1uf) 0201 5% - Decoupling Capacitor if ya ever need one… sourcelyplus.com/collections/playstation-5/products/hdmi-port-decoupling-capacitor-5-pack
Exact problem im having what do i do i removed the port perfectly fine but i can clear out the solder to the put the new port in
Cant**
Good tear down, lots of nice info. Wow big solder blobs, tho
Thx, yeah definitely not necessary, I always do tho lol, 1 it confirms for me that the solder flowed down the anchor or pin, the other reason I do it is..although I document by serial number the repairs, its my trademark of sort, verifies its my work and also which module was swapped. I give one year warranty which is nuts so that one way I know “yep thats my work” haha I do same on my hdmi ports, actually bridging the 4 anchors on both sides of board as well
I’m currently doing this for a friends PS5. I’ve worked on Dreamcast, WiiU Pad, and dozens of 360s and Xbox One. I love a good challenge.
Awesome! Good luck with it!
By far one of the best repair vids for elite series 2 in youtube...I wish I came across this before I ruined the green motherboard on mine trying to fix a joystick module...and thank you for explaining the calibration piece. Thanks for the vid...and I will subscribe!
Thx Tyler
Ayooo joe
Keep up the good work!
Thx Roger
What equipment would I need for this?
Youll need a security bit T8 or T9. You need a hotair station, a soldering station or combo of the both. A microscope is recommended. I suggest using a lowmelt solder like chipquik and good flux like amtech or what I use is kingbo. Youll need decent solder, solder wick, cotton swabs and 99 isopropyl for cleanup. The liquid silver can be reused but if you need some, grizzly makes a good one. Most of all tho is patience and hopefully some soldering experience. If this is a first timer job for you in regard to soldering or using the mentioned equipment you definitely want to practice on broken consoles first or consider having a reputable shop take the job on.
😍 great job, how much would cost ? And is it the same hdmi port that supports 8k resolution for future ps5 updates? Thanks
Hi Mazin I really only do local repair in Tucson AZ, Reason being is cost of shipping and the liability in regard to handling. There are plenty of local shops that can assist you however. Im a member of Console Repair Legion and we may have a tech near you to assist, check out the list of approved shops here repairlegion.com/repair
The port may support 8k, but the HDMI encoder chip won't, if it does, it probably won't to the 120hz we all want...
I recently broke my ps5 hdmi and not trying to get in trouble can you tell me if it’s cheaper to get it done or do it yourself and is it hard for a beginner
Its definitely not a job for a first timer, the disassembly is medium difficulty for even someone experienced that first time they open it, theres alot of screws, the soldering process is definitely not easy. The recommended equipment cost couple hundred at least. There are reputable shops that can help you get it done locally, you can call and find out what they are askin for the job. Just make sure they got good reviews and whatnot.