Servus! My name is Tom (Tamás Gál). I'm an astroparticle physicist, software developer and DevOps engineer. Besides my girlfriend and profession, I love DIY projects, motorbike tours, climbing, making music, building modular synthesizers, cooking, film making and photography. This is a KZread channel which I use to upload all kinds of projects, adventures, tutorials and whatnot I'd like to share with the world.
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I have a newer model, TS101, and generally use the 24V-3A plug pack power supply that came with the kit. It works great with the one genuine tip that came with the kit. However, I bought a new set of 10+ non genuine tips, and all of the ones I've tried (3 or 4) heat up briefly, then I get a 'no tip' error. The cold resistance of the non genuine tips I've tried all look good, around 7-8ohms, and I seem to remember the TS101 can display the tip ohms when installed. However, do you happen to know how I can measure the tip temp sensor, I presume they must have one? The non genuine tips have two metal rings, and I guess the metal body of the tips may be grounded or used for one of the temp sensor connections? Thinking perhaps the non genuine tips have faulty temp sensors, or heating elements may be going open circuit within a few seconds of heating, or perhaps just poorly connecting inside the iron. I've tried them with the locking screw tight, medium tight, just nipped up, and even loose, with no real change. I can install the genuine tip and it continues to work just fine, with no drop outs or 'no tip' message, no matter if the lock screw is tightened, or completely loose etc. Any ideas on how I can get these non genuine tips to work for me? I know, I should have just bought 4× genuine tips, but 10+ non genuine tips of all shapes and sizes for the same price as 3 or 4 genuine ones was hard to resist, and now I'm stuck only able to use the genuine one anyway🤣
thanks for your video and mosfet alternatives!
Fantastische Martinshörner! In Düsseldorf haben die DLKs leider seit Jahren dieses FStW-Gekreische und die neuen LFs, die bereits bei der FF in Dienst sind, haben Pressluft und eben dieses vorgenannte schrille Gejaul. Bei den neuen TLFs der BF ist das bereits der Fall. Diese und die DLKs hatten früher die majestätischen, singenden Martinshörner, wie die Fahrzeuge in diesem Beitrag und die (noch!) bei der BF in Dienst befindlichen LFs.
Wow!!!!!
I let my friend borrow mine for about a year and it won't heat at all now
I guess you need to take it apart…
Brother they make snowmobiles
True 🤣
It’s hard to get a street legal snowmobile in Germany though ;)
@@tamasgal_com I never even considered the legality elsewhere in the world. Regardless, you have balls of steel. Stay safe man
NOW HE CAN ENJOY UNFREEZING HIS AZZ AFTER THE RIDE !
Driving a motorcycle in the snow, well I've tried this with a bicycle and it didn't go well but maybe going faster is the solution.
I will say however this trick or heating the key to unthaw the ignition is logicly sound. This COULD work on any lock.
Indeed. As long as you can hammer in the key without breaking the lock, no need for any fluids like isopropyl alcohol (which one always forgets). A lighter is always at hand or one can ask someone ;) the only downside is that if it’s cold, the pressure in the lighter can be very low so you need to preheat it in your hands a bit…
@@tamasgal_com hammering in the key is the definitely the scary part.
Man muss sich nicht abseilen in den Martha Keller, gibt dort wo ihr wart zwei Meter daneben noch eine Stelle wo man runter kann :)
Ich weiß, wir haben die Stelle anfangs nicht gefunden aber als wir unten waren haben wir den Schluf entdeckt. Wir sind ja da dann hoch, haben wir auch im Video erwähnt ;)
Es ist schon erstaunlich was im Untergrund zusehen ist. Was die Menschen früher ohne Technik gewisse Stollen getrieben haben.
Absolut ;)
Thank you very much, sir. This video just saved me $50
I had mine for 4 years, wasn't until just now I tried a 15volt 3.4a power supply I got this error and now no longer works on the prior 12v 3a PS :( it was labeled for 12-24v input too. I will have to try replacing the chip.
Fixed mine, installed PN IRF9362TRPBF 30V 8A. Thank you for the video!
EXTRA INFO - I had the same Sens Error problem, but it was poor contact between the iron and the three tip connections. It can be diagnosed by pressing the top button to see the voltage and current temperature when cold. If it's not sensible (like 25C), try dismantling and cleaning the brass contacts and PCB pads to them.
Thanks for this ! I've used mine for many years but blew it this week by stupidly not paying attention and while powered I somehow inserted the tip end in tip first :( it was very late and very dark and I was rushing is my excuse. Did not think it would even fit in backward but it does! Dont try it! My fault was different - it would say "Sen Err" but not heat at all. Anyway couldn't find those Mosfets you mentioned for reasonable postage costs - but I found a fds4935bz on a scrap playstation 3 motherboard - and it works perfectly :) fds4935bz is -6.9 A, -30 V Thanks for the pointers to get my soldering iron working again!
Nice fix! Salvaging from old electronic parts is even more Mad Max 😎 …and wow, the tip fits backwards… that’s a design fail par excellence 😅
Love the color scheme.
Thanks ☺️
Lovely work on this T !
Thanks Marti :)
💥 S 💨 A 💨 V 💨 A 💨 G 💨 E 💥☮️ Steuerkettenspanner? 🤞🏻👍🏻🍻🕊☮️
Ne, der war’s nicht. Hatte schon sehr früh das TBKS verbaut gehabt, daher war jenes Problem beseitigt. Es war tatsächlich das Ausgleichsgewicht was eine Unwucht hatte.
@@tamasgal_com Immerwieder spannend, diese "Big Singles"! Danke für die Antwort!👍🏻
@@michaelelse9328 definitiv 😅 Gerne!
@@tamasgal_com Na dann, eine schöne Saison!🌞🏍💨💨💨 Cheers 🍻
Ebenfalls! Fuer mich ist das ganze Jahr Saison ;)
I really love those modules color :D
Thanks! 😃
I really love those modules color :D
Many thanks 😊
Lovely work on this T !
Thanks 😃
Tomika mit tud ez az általam ismeretlen komplikált szerkezet bányai mami
Na szia Mami, te meg mit csinalsz a KZread-on? 😆
Ever seen red soldering tip? I have :D same issue and powerful PSU.
Oh no 😅 get rid of the faulty tip and replace the MOSFET! 😜
Please more more video on Woozy
I'll try to spend more time on that! So many things have piled up on my todo list 🙈
Great job on completing your modular case! I found your blog post about the 4x3 buffered multiple and I’d like to build it. For the value of R4, R6, R13 and R19 it says "1K Depending on the type of LED", does that mean that 1K is good for a typical bi-color LED? What are the specs of your LEDs? I love your panel designs btw :)
Thanks Zlatko, appreciated! Yes, I use 1k for the blue/red bi-color LEDs. Let me explain a little bit this LED/resistor thing. The LEDs in the 4x3 buffered multiple are driven by an opamp-buffer where the input signal is the actual signal fed to the inputs (CV, audio, whatever) and it's simply "buffered" (decoupled) and forwarded to the LED, in the same manner it buffers the actual signal it multiplies. This means, whatever you put it, you get it out but it will have a very low impedance, so you can draw a lot of current and the opamp will drain their supplies (typically +12V and -12V or +15V and -15V in modular synths). (Hot) audio signals are often a few V (centerred around 0V) and CV is somewhere between -10V and 10V. These are the two types of signals which are usually buffered with this module. So the maximum voltage in that LED sub-circuit (resistor + LED) is 10V respectively -10V. Now it's important to know that LEDs have a forward voltage, below which they simply do not emit light (and barely let current pass). You can use a cheap multi-meter in diode-mode to measure this forward voltage. Given that the maximum expected voltage is 10V and let's say you measure 1.5V as forward voltage for you diode, you now need to calculate the resistor value based on the fact that you want to get another 8.5V and(!) limit the current to the maximum current the LED can handle. This you can find in the datasheet, but it's usually around 20mA. The higher, the brighter the LED but also the shorter its lifetime. The lifetime shrinks pretty quickly above this threshold ;) Alright, given that we need to get 8.5V on the resistor, now you can calculate its value with the current you want to have (20mA = 0.020A) with the famous R=U/I formula. In this example, R = 8.5V / 0.020A = 425 Ohm. If you pick a higher value, the LED will be a bit dimmer and will life much longer. I picked 1k because it works for most of the LEDs fine but the most important thing is to not go with a lower resistance (which results in higher current). Hope this helps! Maybe I should extend my blog post with this information ;)
@@tamasgal_com That answers my question most precisely. Thank you for the thorough explanation, I appreciate the time and effort you put into explaining things so clearly. I'm excited to gather all the necessary components and get started!
the next sponsored video is in the making 😅
Noice!
Oh wow, was fuer eine Ehre, ich liebe deine Videos :D
@@tamasgal_com ach was, das ist doch keine Ehre ehe andersherum dass die dir gefallen
Gorgeous tones & textures... brilliant work on this Tamas !
Many thanks Marti, this means a lot to me :)
niice
Thaaaanks :D
i have this polar RC3 can i send to you see if you can repair it
You can drop me a mail: [email protected]
I bought my ts100 a few months ago, tried it out and it immediately did the same thing, although I didn’t notice the problem until the tip was literally red hot, do I need a new tip? It seems a bit charred. I hope I didn’t destroy anything in the TS100 itself, I want to do the Mosfet fix too, but fear that something else may be broken too. But from your video it seems to just have the same symptoms as mine, no more and no less symptoms. I’m gonna open mine to see if any other components show any signs of damage, other than the mosfet.
I am pretty sure that you have a faulty tip. Get a new one and replace the MOSFET, that should do it. Regarding the schematics, I don’t think that other components are affected! Let me know if you need further help :)
Do you share the schematics/build process? Awesome work
Yes I am planning to document and share all details of the creation process soon, from schematics to the finished painting, coating and mix-in. :)
Btw. you can find more pictures on my Patreon page if you are interested (all for free): patreon.com/tamasgal
@@tamasgal_com nice, thanks!
Nice, You just have changed case right? I love how you custommize them with those lovely colors. Really beautiful and nice Jam ❤
Thanks! Yes, that’s the bigger case now, but already working on the next case 😅
Pretty nice! 😁😁
Thanks :D
Hey !!! 😀very nice set up !
Thanks! Ridiculously tiny compared to yours 😆 but it takes shape very slowly :)
@@tamasgal_com the important thing is the sound not the size 😋
I'd like to thank you so much because doing exactly the same things suggested in the video I fixed my sequre iron soldering which is a sort of clone of TS - 100. Ciao my friend!
Happy to hear! Many thanks for your comment too, I appreciate any kind of feedback :) Have fun tinkering!
What brand of Flux did you use? Thanks a lot!
There is nothing special about it, I use all kinds of fluxes, whatever I finde in local shops :) The one in the video is I think "Chip Quik" if I remember correctly. Search for "no clean flux"!
@@tamasgal_com thank you so much! I've the same problem. Hope with new mosfet can fix it... Thank you again
@@gabrielemoro1 I am pretty sure you will, let me know if you need further help :)
sau cool 😃👍
😅👍
Cool 😀 !!!
Bonjour quel outil faut il pour enlever les petites vis ?
nice🙂
Флюса знатно лупанул))
Good video!
Glad you enjoyed it
Mine took a few years to break. Anwyay, thanks a lot for this video
Both of my TS100 are still working after like 3 years, fortunately, but I don't change the tips too often. As it turned out (see the pinned comment), the most likely reason that a MOSFET is burnt in a TS100 is due to a bad tip. I use my iron almost every day and luckily the tips are really heavy duty, so I only changed them I think once or maybe twice the past three years. Of course, the more often you change those, the higher the risk that you pick up a faulty tip and kill your iron ;) Anyways, happy soldering and many thanks for your comment.
wonderful
Thank you! Cheers!
Bro, I can't find any of those mosfets, can you help me? :(
Where do you live?
@@tamasgal_com Italy
@@axolaxol1619 What about eBay.it? I found this one: www.ebay.it/itm/191652047199?hash=item2c9f5a295f:g:Az8AAOSw~gRVv9tx
@@tamasgal_com It does not ship to Italy :/ Edit: ok, i contacted them. Now I can buy it. Thanks! :D
@@tamasgal_com Is FDS6630A okay?
Those modules look so beautiful!!
Thanks! :D
Creative man. I've thought to get sounds from many things, but not a stepper motor.
Hey I am super interested in your setup but it was kinda hard to hear anything :P
I’ll prepare a video with a bit of more explanation and also better audio quality ;)
@@tamasgal_com Awesome I'm looking forward to that!
@@DECIMA1 But don’t expect too much yet, I started to build Synth nodules only a couple of weeks ago and my modular compared to your setup is a joke 😅
@@tamasgal_com that's not my setup it's a friends, mine is so much more humble 😅
woow, nice!
Two broken mosfets straight out of the factory.. Seems sus