We are Phoenixtypewriter.com We have been repairing, servicing, restoring, typewriters for over 35 years ! We are Professionally Trained on IBM, Adler, Brother, Royal, Smith Corona & highly trained on most all other Brands. Our specialization is with Vintage, Mid Century & Antique typewriters, But we also repair Printers, Transcription units, fax machines & other office machines. Just call us directly for anything business machine related, especially old typewriters ! Leave comments, Subscribe, leave "likes" , Etc . . . . thanks, Duane Jensen ( owner/president )
Phoenixtypewriter.com is J.C. Business Machines ( since 1979 ), Phoenix, AZ.
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Hi - do you have any IBM Electric II's for sale? Please give me your contact info and I will also try to reach you.
Such useful knowledge
How long should the belt be for the typewriter
Belt ? do you mean Draw String (band) ? I don't know, never measured, just figured it out from the attachment points www.ebay.com/itm/196374339695
Exactly what I was looking for! Thanks for sharing.
My heart was in my throat watching this. 😂 I need to do this with the @ key to have a fully working keyboard (I have the bar, it’s just not attached), but I’m so scared of breaking something trying to get that rod out.
Love that Hungarian key layout!
i love it, really stands out
JB Weld!
My 1950s Remingtons have a distinctive aroma which I like. Maybe old grease and eraser shavings, one of them I pulled a lot of eraser shavings out.
Clever reinforcement! I was thinking of pooling some epoxy inside, but metal should be much stronger.
Clever reinforcement! I was thinking of pooling some epoxy inside, but metal should be much stronger.
Epoxy alone might not hold it well enough. One method would be to stick short pieces of wire into the plastic, then pour the epoxy over.
This method has proved to be a very handy thing to know. I’ve used it to repair knobs for typewriters and other plastic parts. Thanks for spreading the word about “melding “
The key here is to heat the metal sufficiently above the melting point of the plastic that it can sink into it without burning it and also without it going through, If you go too deep, you just cut a hole in the plastic with the ring and now you've made yourself a much bigger problem. So a single loop of a key ring is probably better. Thin, but still metal and enough to give extra support to the bond. Temperature, depending on the plastic, is probably 50 degrees F above the melting point. So that when you get it in there, it sets pretty quickly around the reinforcing ring. For many such things, clear epoxy may be the better choice. After all, if it breaks again, you can use a dental pick to remove the old epoxy and then try a new method.
First! I was looking for a way to mend plastics. Thank you very much. 😊
So how does the roller get inked? Seems like it wouldn't store enough ink for one page. Is there a reservoir that feeds it? Also, how does inking actually work? Does it turn the next letter down to dab on the roller before it strikes, or is it just rolling ink on all the "petals" as they come around?
Thank you! I just picked this exact typewriter up at a thrift store. It’s filthy and the keys don’t come all the way up to hit the ink ribbon, but I’m hoping to at least do some proper cleaning and see what comes of it. This video is exactly what I needed!
Never even thought about using this method to test ribbon lift height. Sometimes we think in too direct a manner and don't take advantage of obvious helpful clues!
Identical problem, identical grey Royal. Thank you so much for this video! Now where’s my bender tool
🎉
I just got one of these last week because they have rare Hosiden key switches! Such a beautiful typewriter
GIVE THIS MAN 1 BILLION DOLLARS NOW! Thank youuuu
THAAANK YOUUUUUU
buy where from?
retired typewriter mechanics sell their old tools on E-bay
This is a fascinating find. Thanks for the tip. In looking at my own '49 5 series Clipper I notice that the manual adjustment with the H 6-2 L lever attaches to a short spring, then a small plate, and from there to an arm attached to the universal bar. None of the settings on my machine effect any actual change because the entire assembly is loose from start to finish. Your machine in the video does much the same as I can see the spring attached to that lever hangs loose as you move from the L to the H settings. Given the screwdriver settings you're showing, I'm wondering if that Touch Selector is a vestigial appendage from the 4 Series days? I do notice another nearby unused arm on the universal bar with a hook-like end on it that the spring might have been attached to to provide actual tension. Unfortunately I only have a few 4 series machines to compare with (and their assemblies are dramatically different) and don't have any other 5 series machines to see what the proper connection setting for the manual touch selector should be. As far as I can tell, no one's done a proper video of the manual touch selector assembly on the 5 series machines, if in fact they ever worked at all. Perhaps something to add to the list of videos to produce the next time a 5 series Smith-Corona comes through.
I love the branded shift key!
i ain't doin all that
Esa no es la tecnica correcta. Eso es de una persona sin estudios
I've never seen one that bad or thought to try heat
Hi! Love the videos you share! I have a Coronet Electric 12 which the motor makes a bit of noise. I haven't investigated yet, but I'm wondering, are these motors or their bushings still available? Is the motor repairable or do you normally just seek out a donor from a typewriter with less wear?
Bearings do wear out, but rarely. These motors, centrifugal clutches, belts, impression mechanism all contribute to the noise, rebuild clutch, drop of oil on bearings, make sure the belts are not out-of-round, motors rarely go bad.
This corrects the up-and-down position of the loose dog. I am having what appears to be a back-and-forth issue with mine. When I press a key (or the space bar), the loose dog goes forward too far, and when the loose dog is trying to come back, it gets out caught on the star wheel, causing the carriage to freeze. Have you seen this before? It seems like I should be able to make an adjustment, so the loose dog doesn't go in quite so far.
That's the problem with loose screws on a drive shaft. They can't help but cut a groove and once you get that, it's hard to get things to behave properly without replacing the screw and the shaft. Glad there was enough room to shift this over. Saw that on an old CRAC air handler. Only it's quite a different thing when the drive shaft is four and a half feet long!
This doesn't seem too hard, just time-consuming. Would Acetone work in place of Lacquer Thinner
It's hard to tell from the angle, but when you re-install the trip arm assembly does the restoring stud have to be completely over that nylon eccentric cam on the cycle clutch, or can it be offset a little? I recently did a hub replacement (my first major Selectric surgery), and when I got everything buttoned back up the stud was only riding 2/3rds to 3/4ths of the cam. I couldn't find anything mentioning it in the service manual, and I want to make sure I'm not going to wear down that cam the way I have it.
Excellent hack. The issue on my 6784 was that the keyboard ribbon connector came slightly loose. On those machines (Wheelwriter 6 Series II in the US) the keyboard error is displayed as the first three lights (1, 1/2 and 2) flashing continuously while the machine beeps 6 times on startup (and upon any keystroke it does register). Hope it helps someone.
Meh... just start using Ss for Zs. It'll be fiiiine! 😄
Hi I have restored a 6787 Wheelwriter but… I did not take a photograph of the battery connector location and I have J4 and J7 which both seem suitable however none works… because the machine gives me the battery depleted icon on the lcd screen. Maybe you can help me?
Had a WW30 years ago that the batt icon would never go off, never figured it out, it was retaining memory. So I don't know, I also no longer have anybody that might know or know anybody that might know
@@phoenixtypewriter2136 thanks! I used the jumper J4 and it retains memory even though the battery icon doesn’t go off.
To me, it's a parts machine. The plastic warping is probably different batches of plastic with different characteristics and the effects of summer heat, probably exacerbated by the storage shed or whatever. It's a good machine overall (the design, I mean) but the condition relative to the market value and the number still in working order make it an investment with no return or even a loss. If it is for personal use, then maybe clean it up and make it a longer term project to replace the plastic bits, starting with the space bar so you can use it. Otherwise, it's more valuable in pieces.
How do I unlock the carriage on a smith corona 1930's typewriter?
Are you talking Glossy Flat Top model ? Push carriage to the right . . . .
good d
What type of oil do you use?
Primarily "Red Oil" - Marvel Mystery Oil, found in automotive stores, or even Amazon
How do you recover your feed rollers?
I have a Swintec 3000 (I beleive a rebranded Olympia from Japan). Same issue. So glad I ran into this video.
59 sec. Mine does not have these levers. And it is constantly hammering and the ribbon/ball is stuck on the left, so I can’t get in. Suggestions?
10+ years servicing Selectrics and never had a need to create a hand cycle tool; original IBM issue worked great, and the real test of a user was to install the tool while machine is running. Yes it's possible.
Still have a few originals, I like the one in the beginning of the video best, OEM were a little small for my big hands, Selectric II knob style I used for 20 yrs until I found the one in Video. I would like to see how to install the tool while on or is this a trick question.
@@phoenixtypewriter2136 not a trick question. I was successful a few times, some peers were every time. Shaft inline with receiving hold and spun slightly faster than the Shaft. Try it, you'll like it
Thank goodness for KZread! Just found one of these for $30 at a thrift store and the only real issues are a sticky spacebar and shift keys.
Thanks! This helped with an issue i was having with my typewriter. Not the one featured but still! Glad i found your channel.
you typically not knowing 🦯
go ahead you known for that
wail that's a great idea
ain't that your partner there
awaiting reflective to continue