Trevs-Shed
Reviews, Repairs, CNC with a 3018, 3D Printing with a heavily modified Ender 3 Pro and CR10 Smart Pro.
Laser cutting and engraving with the Red Dragon RDL4040, Central heating installation, hot tub installation and maintenance and plenty more.
All filmed off the cuff with cockups and corrections, learning as we go.......
Latest and future planned videos will cover the XBox Series X and Microsoft Flight Simulator, Mostics 3018 CNC, Red Dragon CO2 Laser engraver system and more repair videos........
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Seen that type of heater before, from memory they are PTC heaters so as temperature increases so does resistance so they will stabilize at a fixed temperature, the worst fake i had years ago basically had 2 of those and a switch with no electronics. Was hoping the fake days were past but it may have just begun :(....again
think you will find that heater in your hotplate as you use the same one as me
Certainly slowed down as the higher temperature was reached. I have never seen this type of element before and have no knowledge of them but that makes perfect sense.
@@KevsElectricalWorkshop Good point.
Ceramic resistors are common, cheap to make, and reasonably reliable, as they will crack but keep on working, and then whaen they crumble to dust the plates short out, and blow the traces off the PCB, or blow the cable. Note they seem to have forgotten about the plug fuse as well, though I would say the wires only have 5 strands of thin copper like material in them, either CCA, mystery copper or steel.
They did the wrong model number because they have a few reels of the old fake part number stickers, so want to use them up first, as after all making that fake reel of labels cost money, and buyers will only complain after the sale by a few months, long enough to have gotten a few thousand more sales. Poor castings and mouldings, because they used 3D scans of the originals, so they have resolution problems on the making the moulds, and also the poor resolution shows up as the poor dots in the logo, and the poor finish inside because fixing that takes time. Sold in bulk to the poorer countries, tying in to the GHD brand, but at a much lower price, so they are moving thousands a month. Very popular by me, and you see them advertised by all sorts of sellers, which means the genuine part does not sell at all, because the fakes are a third the price, and probably last a year in use before failing, then get replaced with another fake one.
Interesting Sean. Likely that only a few made it to the UK then.
How does it work? I tried digging through 9 years of video to figure out how this worked out for you but couldn't find anything.
Just a cheap entry level Control Panel I have the same one
hi, just wondering where you got your gloves if you don't mind me asking please? missed these very informative videos of yours. please keep the videos coming. thank you x
Hi amzn.to/3zJS6Wg
Can I use this box without the internet as I don't have it? I only want it to record TV programs and watch those.
@@elizabethblack3863 Yes. You can.
Máquina ruim. Não tem peças para reposição. Totalmente descartável.
Still working when needed for me. Tell me any machine that has spare parts available for it?
Amazing little printer. Its unbelievable but a lot of these are still in use today.
It's padel tension cover...i fit there...
what setting on the multimeter have you tested the thermal fuse on ?
Ghd straighteners mk5 no heat bleeping sound but no red light have checked thermal fuse heater pads resister r8r11 cable and are all ok what do you think thanks
@@gerardwebb-kd3xv thermistor or pic processor
If you don’t mind could you please share your dimensions for the roller replacements
Hi Just download the file from Thingiverse
Have you been running into issues running your kiln, (I did the heating cycle in the beginning, yet I keep running to random issues and none of the warning lights or anything, I’m getting a bit stumped) I Honestly tithe manufacturers have sent me a broken kiln twice.
Hi Trevs, with your help I was capable to disassemble and re-assemble the GHD Pro Max which was not working due to red beeps... It seems that it was a fault contact problem, because once tear down, the plates and the thermistores were working. Again thanks for your video! Kind regards Andrea
Backrest setup name pls 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻 very nice bike
Hi The back rest is part of the Genuine Ducati panniers kit.
How active duty cycle ??
hey Trev, im having issues connecting my m1 to pc. i keep getting a software error. any help is appreciated. mahalo
Not a good tech handling. Use a smaller solder iron tip, and "clean". Your dirty and large tip made a mess on board. Use a paste style of solder flux, like 8341 No Clean Flux Paste from MG, instead of wet all board with liquid ones, another mess. Don't need to apply so much Chipquik low temp melting solder, just a fine line, don't waste time - lift the chip as soon both sides are melted, immediately, with tweezer, not pliers. In some cases when the chip is very thin and difficult to grab with tweezers I glue a sewing thread with super glue (just a small dot) on center of the chip, and keep pushing gently, when the chip is ready it will lift easily.
THANK YOU!!!
Thanks for this presentation! Was just wondering how well the mic button works, it's the only one you haven't tested...! It's the Google Assistant, right? And what physical mic does it use, the car mic or the phone mic? And the audio answer is delivered on the car speakers I guess? Thanks in advance!
My GHD curling iron has a red light blinking. Is there a fix for that?
What's the model number.
Great video. Thankyou! 10/10
Love how the UK plugs are decently made and fused. Thanks for the look! I ordered one of these cheap things to come state side. Obviously quality control is - Non-existent. Will go through it and make sure everything is grounded properly. You shouldn't need the internal fuse after adding the new fused plug, but no harm in leaving it. I'll probably open mine up and change out the cord.
aloha Trev, i cant seem to connect my m1 to my pc. i keep getting a software error. any help is greatly appreciated
Hi I need far more info. M1 or M1 Pro? What software are you trying to use? What is the error?
i wont forgive you doing fking asmr with your nails 🤢🤮
Is this be screen touch?
Yes.
Did you follow up with Peak Electronics on the issues you found with the low wrong readings ?
Sorry. No idea. This was years ago.
Your two readings of 27 ohms and 15 ohms between each the thermal fuse pad and its associated element wire tell me that the thermal fuse pads are connected between a split element. ie 27 + 15 = total of 42 The Platinum + that I have here appears to have a similar 4 wire Element/Thermistor arrangement. ie. I measure 40 ohms for the element and 490 ohms for the thermistor. The thermistor appears to be a PTC type. Do you have any info on the specs for the internal Thermistors at all ?
Hi I will only share the information that it is not a thermistor. The elements are the same on the Gold, Max and Platinum Plus
@@Trevs-Shed Wow , that is interesting. Maybe some type of nichrome wire resistor then ?
@@Trevs-Shed It looks like it uses an RTD arrangement. Am I correct ? Edited: Platinum RTD that is ?
Hi Trev, What should the resistance reading be of my thermistors, at 25 degrees celcius ? Many thanks.
100K Ohms at 21 degs or thereabouts.
I can't even turn on the hair straightener. Is it the fuse problem?
Hi Dead on this model is a faulty PCB usually. Check the plug top fuse first, 3 or 5 amps fuse should be fitted.
Have you seen the new ms5.0 with the two clips on top of the thermal fuse which looks like the top cover needs to come of?
How do you get a microscope over that
You seem to be using an older apk software. I bought a B41T+ meter and the software seems to have changed to iMETER apk which i believe is valid also for the OW18E. The iMETER software is missing numerical values on horizontal and vertical scales on data graph which makes the whole point of a graph useless. The old software does not seem to appear on site or Playstore.
Screws that are supplied are prepacks made by the cheapest supplier. I almost invariably never use them at all, using either chipboard screws or drywall screws, bought from Pelican MIS, as those are the strongest screw you can get. They will self drill, even though they are not actually self drilling, and will go into 2mm steel tube no problem.
I imagine that you would be able to sell this service for £50 a go. Still cheaper than the garage.....
Great. It will be interesting to hear what happens when you connect to the car.
This video was certainly very helpful even if old! Unfortunately, half of the teeth on the turning cog in my tow bar were missing! Also the outer pin that is supposed to get pushed up seems to have seized completely in the bar itself and I'm not sure how to get it unstuck without breaking it. These bars seem to be pretty low quality. I don't think I will be able to salvage mine to get through yearly inspections (I wonder how my car passed last year before buying it?) and I have no clue where to get a new one of these.
Wow! That is dinky; the Amazon listings I saw before watching your video make it look deceptively larger.
Hi, can you tell me if it makes a high pitched buzzing at the base? My news ones do which I’m told is normal?!
Hi What do you mean by "the base"?
The wishbone hinge
Small claims court I'm sure will not entertain their diagnostics shenanigans - not expensive, do it online, get your costs back.
Thought I'd mention, at 2:44 you talk about Honda not locking doors automatically when you drive away. They do actually do this, it just may not be turned on in your car. It's been a minute since I knew my way around their infotainment, but the way it *used* to be set was in the Settings, Vehicle Settings, Door Lock Settings. Looking at the manual for a modern one, it looks like in the dashboard settings there's a "Door Setup" setting. Either way, you're looking for "Auto Door Lock" and you can choose to have it Disabled, With Vehicle Speed (over here in the states it was 10mph), or Shift From P. It was literally my job to know the settings and systems of the vehicles. That's all I did, was show people and help people set things up or understand how to use the tech or other things in the cars. I always advised against the extended warranties. Dealerships suck, full stop.
Thanks for the detailed reply. This feature is not available to UK customers. It's US only.
@@Trevs-ShedWhat an odd thing to omit. I'd assumed the software, like the rest of the car was a global platform with whatever regional differences. Esoecially considering the manual from Honda UK for the 16-21 model years even includes it (which I did check before posting.) Go figure. I imagine you've tried it, but the old-school method of park (or neutral maybe, if stick), e-brake, brakes, ignition, out of P/N, hold Lock button. It's quite confusing and poorly documented, but its how they used to set it before the big screens were added. Sorry for giving you bad information earlier. What a load of nonsense. Infinite wisdom of Honda indeed.
Stopped watching at 03:00. * hands him a bar of soap *.
What’s with the writing all over your mitts? Aww, nvm, they're some kind of tosser gloves? Sheesh 🙄
I guess it's a bit of a tradeoff between getting rid of a nasty neighbour and putting off potential new neighbours by making sure that the disputes are known about.
So really its a glorified coffee mug warmer then lol
Same problem with my glass bed. 1st time it happened after forcefully removing printed part while still hot. But now the same happened again when taking the fully cooled down part without any force. However, I am using 90 degrees for first layer and 80 for remaining part to get reliable adhesion with PETG (which I could not achieve with lower temperatures). Cleaning always with isopropyl. And I don't know how to get the glass bed removed from the heat plate.
That is a scam!
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Hi Stu Didn't know you watched my ramblings...
Hi Trev - do you have a link to the pads and discs that you used for your Diavel? About to do mine. Thanks in advance