Hi love your vids. I have got hold of a few boxes of very old 4x5 slide film and if they won’t look great as slides when you cross process them in C41 do you process them as normal C41 time and temperature? And also should I expose them based on their age like I would a c41 film Thanks
@Bean420782 күн бұрын
caffenol
@clavdiolizarraga10754 күн бұрын
Being aware of Rodinal lasting forever, I didn't hesitate to go for my old 10ish year old bottle... looked good, went for 1+25 and ran some HP5 tgrough it, film came out BLANK, no developing action AT ALL, fixer took away everything and only thing I was left was the acetate
@Alfred.Petersson5 күн бұрын
I managed to develop a roll of Agfa Isopan ISS that I found in a camera that I estimate was exposed in the mid 50's. There were images, I wasn't really expecting anything, but there are actual images with identifiable subjects. Which honestly shocked me. Now that was thankfully b&w which tends to age better.
@pierrecrampagne68267 күн бұрын
Votre vidéo est très bien faite, avec les couleurs (gamme) et vos prises de vues ensuite, en 6 X 6 du plus bel effet en diapositive.Vous montrez ensuite des planches contact en 35 mm, mais ici, les couleurs paraissent fanées,vos photos en extérieur sont très biens. Si vous développez votre diapositive comme un négatif couleur,vous aurez un négatif sans le filtre orange, et si vous allez à l'agrandisseur, il faudra sur filtrer en jaune.Un film négatif, développé comme une diapositive, vous aurez une diapo avec le filtre orange, et après tirage sur papier, vous aurez un négatif.Avant la fin de la vidéo, qu'est-ce que vous avez voulu dire avec la planche contact sans vraiment de couleurs et les dominantes sur les photos. On a l'impression d'avoir un bain de négatif qui n'aurait pas atteint la température réelle du révélateur.
@RiverRiley698 күн бұрын
You should red scale the film and cross process in E6 so the film is color balanced a bit better
@Jerry1093910 күн бұрын
Shooting at 800 for everything to me is stupid. I was an Army photographer back in the Neolithic film age. I did mostly photojournalism work and the primary film I used was PlusX 125 ISO. Developed in Microdol-X. It had really fine grain, great tone and dynamic range with good contrast. If it was a darker overcast day. I might use TriX 400 ISO film. We did use a lot of FP4 and some HP5 but it doesn’t give the same results as PlusX with the developer I used. I never pulled film. There was no need for it. If I wanted slower like 25 ISO it was because it was the finest grain. You do this because it has the sharpest image with the most dynamic range and with 35 mm film you can make a poster sized print with little to no grain. And I don’t know what you are metering for but on a sunny day you can shoot 25 ISO film at 1/125 at f/8 or 1/1000 at f/2.8. What lens are you using? Are you using a lens with a maximum aperture of f/3.4 or something. Cause if you are your TTL metering is going to be off by two stops, use a handheld meter. A good one. If you are shooting color film and want a little bit of a pastel look, yes, pull it one maybe two stops tops for artistic sake but not with B&W. 800 ISO has no reciprocity for daylight, unless you use a camera with shutter speeds over 1/4000. Film isn’t digital so you shouldn’t try and shoot it speeds it wasn’t made for. Especially since there are film speeds made in that ISO. In the past TriX was rated at 200, and some cameras only went up to 1/500. And the standard film used was 64 ISO. Use the slowest film for the lighting conditions for best results, I usually start at 100 ISO for daylight, but will go for 25 to 64, if I want more reciprocity. I use 400 and higher only for lower lighting conditions, if I don’t use a flash.
@oscargarcia820411 күн бұрын
from the creators of "can it run Doom?" comes... "can it trichrome?"
@joshuagaude608412 күн бұрын
When those turn out, they look great. A color infrared one would look killer if nailed.
@chanalogfoto12 күн бұрын
Hey, just wanted to drop you a note sunce I think we're in the same town. Not sure why I'm only finding your channel now. I guess the algorithm is finally working.
@chanalogfoto12 күн бұрын
Gah! I should have watched this before underexposing and underdeveloping my roll.
@darcangelomauro13 күн бұрын
"I use Rodinal 1:25 at 100°C for about 5 seconds" just great
@adrianvalella685415 күн бұрын
can you redscale this film please (or any Aerocolor IV film)? since it has a clear base I would like to see how it looks with the red layer first and the blue layer last
@saulekaravirs658516 күн бұрын
I know I'm over 3 years late to the party and you probably won't see this, but... Maybe two of my questions can be answered at once with this suggestion if the rolls are still waiting on ideas... they probably aren't. Is it possible to do bleach bypass in E6? Or is that just a C41 thing? If you can, my, probably ridiculous, idea is to shoot it red scale and then cross process it in E6 with bleach bypass if possible... I think my punctuation in that sentence was correct. Weird sentence to write out.
@atticdarkroom15 күн бұрын
Technically it's possible. But the problem is with the E6 process silver is left on the entire frame. So if you skip the bleach step you're left with a thick, nearly totally opaque, layer of silver, making the film pretty much unusable. The image would be developed, but just unviewable.
@saulekaravirs658515 күн бұрын
@@atticdarkroom That is quite interesting. I had been wondering if it would do the same thing in E6 that it does to C41 with adding contrast and reducing color. But with what you say, E6 sounds like it is somewhere between color and BW. Now I guess the same thing would happen if you were to bleach bypass a BW process as that also leaves silver behind normally. Also, I just discovered your channel last week and have been binging it after work. Your very entertaining videos have pushed me into wanting to develop my own film. There is so much cool stuff you can do. Keep up the hard work, your videos are awesome.
@sednoid19 күн бұрын
This tracks with my experience with expired Lucky color. I shot three rolls from three different sources and they ranged from "completely unusable" to "almost not terrible". Plus two of them had fungus growing in the emulsion, which I only ever experienced with badly stored film from the 1970s before.
@RubberKid10020 күн бұрын
The labels on the backs made me irrationally angry lmao
@HikingwiththeBlindBoomer20 күн бұрын
What not to do with this film? Buy it. I had a roll come out loosely wound from the camera. I'm expecting light fogging. I haven't had that problem with other brands of film.
@awsumpchits22 күн бұрын
UNFATHOMABLY based
@chunsanglum613122 күн бұрын
I had escura from kick starter was kinda disappointing and I got this as well. If the could clear out the black frame and fully cover the install square would be great. My dark slide was also scratched due to the crank as well. Manual ejection for me is good so I could be creative with multi exposure
@RubberKid10022 күн бұрын
I enjoy the idea of single digit ISO film that is this sharp. Good, logical tradeoff. 10/10 would try.
@firstletterofthealphabet730822 күн бұрын
Asides from my previous comment, I liked the third roll of 204,800 ISO push. It looked much better from the other 2 tries and… kinda workable?
@firstletterofthealphabet730822 күн бұрын
c h i r o p r a c t o r
@sednoid23 күн бұрын
I found an unopened bottle of Orwo R09 from the late 80s (the East German equivalent of Rodinal, supposedly using an older formula) in the attic last year. It's been sitting there for over 30 years, going through big temperature changes in all this time and... it's fine. Somehow doesn't even have any solids on the bottom of the bottle as far as I can tell. The concentrate is pretty much black but seemed to work perfectly well on the short test I've done, I really should do more with it.
@pawetarnawski953226 күн бұрын
For a moment, when you were talking about having plastic development tanks, I thought you just put the film in a pot in the darkroom and poured developer into it xdd.
@jaywhangmakes28 күн бұрын
4:21 this cross-processing would make fitting images for emo-punk rock album.
@rg177629 күн бұрын
4:39 made my jaw drop
@dominikkarkowski29 күн бұрын
I had good results pushing those films during development.
@gnalkhere29 күн бұрын
Lucky Super 100 was all I used in 2012/3, and it suuuuuuuucked
@electroncraz91Ай бұрын
use adox adotech 4 for better contrast (its used for CMS 20) or if you want to push process, use paper developer like dektol, interesting that it doesn't seem to have anti-halation by the translucency of it but outdoors that ortho looks really crisp!
@yellowcrescentАй бұрын
Eterna RDS 4791 is the only "cinema" film that Fuji still carries as of 2024 (granted... it's a technical separation film, but still). I'm guessing you have to order it in bulk directly from Fuji, since I've never seen it at B&H or other places. I am curious if Fuji produces the film themselves in their Ashigara plant or if someone else produces it for them. Have thought about buying some off of ebay... but I didn't realize that it was orthochromatic. Still, a good looking film -- like an Ortho version of Fuji Acros.
@gavinjenkins899Ай бұрын
any sort of copy film NEEDS to be stand developed to have any hope of taming contrast. Or 2 bath developed, same idea
@ale_s45Ай бұрын
We got internet
@SeanMcGownАй бұрын
I bet that would be awesome for a half frame camera.
@brs8285Ай бұрын
4:24 wow, they look like Meteor M satellite HRPT imagery, I guess using 2 channels for RGB gives the same color scheme
@arachnenet2244Ай бұрын
Once this stuff works it looks amazing! That first roll really caught me off guard!
@erchataАй бұрын
Que grandes fotografias me ha encantado la de la botella y su huella chapo me quito el sombrero, haber yo no soy quimico , soy aficionado dentro de ese paquete hay los quimicos como el Metol y el Sulfito de sodio por este lado es posible que sean los quimicos y el factor decisibo es el Metol y el sulfito de sodio ya que parece ser que la hidroquinona dejo de funcionar debido a la oxidacion, bien hay un tipico revelador Kodak no comercializado que es D-23 si nos fijamos solo son 2 componentes 7,5 g de Metol y 100 g de sulfito de sodio, hay un curios baño de el señor Stoeckler de 2 Baños con casi los mismos quimicos, formula 2 baños - Baño A metol 5 g sulfito de sodio 100 g 1´ m 1 litro water- Baño B Borax 10 g 1´ m 1 litro water y funciona eso quiere decir que en realidad el D-76 funcionara ya que dispone de un revelador que es el Metol es mi humilde opinion, por cierto suelo usar esos reveladores tanto D-76 como mi queridisimo D-23 un saludo desde BARCELONA ESPAÑA.
@wojciechneprostipotockiАй бұрын
Polecam spróbować Kodak estar 1241 to jest mikrofon dokument ISO 6 albo 3 zależy jak i w czym jest wywoływany. Kontrast można zmniejszyć rozcieńczanie wywoływacza
@RedStarRogueАй бұрын
I have a roll of RDS sitting in my freezer.
@BriManeelyАй бұрын
Attic Darkroom: in case you thought you knew about every film stock in existence.
@PrebleStreetRecordsАй бұрын
Think ISO 12 is slow? I've got about 500' left of some Kodak print distribution color film that's ISO 3-6 and tungsten balanced. It's ECP-2E but there isn't any remjet, so you can do it in C-41. I'll spool up some rolls and send them your way.
@pd1jdw630Ай бұрын
Looks cool though.
@RJMPicturesАй бұрын
Reminds me a lot of Kodak 2237. Nice vid as always
@nickloproАй бұрын
The master tinkerer. Love how you can make such a black hole of an exploration in niche timesinks so entertaining. Hope you enjoy making thisbstuff as much as i always look forward to the next one😅
@67ratsruleАй бұрын
Cool video. The film looks a bit like the FPP Super Positive film. I think that is ISO 1.6. I love your channel, always a hoot to see what you are trichroming next.
@ethanpschwartzАй бұрын
Trichroming with orthochromatic archival film is the kind of wacky fun I subscribed for.
@nickbell5025Ай бұрын
Every single video I wait for the inevitable "this film would suck for doing trichromes so I went ahead and trichromed it"
@j03cs14Ай бұрын
How clear is the base ?? Candidate for B&W reversal ??
@75cafexsАй бұрын
The color is most likely from staining from Rodinal. This was a copy film and will likely have a clear, or damn near clear (so like suuuuuuuuper light grey) that it won't really be that noticeable. Good normal speed films for reversal would be to Rollei Retro films (80s and SuperPan 200) since they're on a completely clear base. The downside to clear base films (and thin emulsion archival films like the one in the video) is light piping.
@jayc6170Ай бұрын
Looks just like lithography film. Kodalith also has a similar-ish ruddy red/brown base color and yields what I would consider similarly contrasty and nearly grain-less results at around 12ISO.
@QARIB_JEWELRYАй бұрын
It looks like you have a micro film in your hand, I have worked with Fuji micro film, I recommend the Kodak D19 developer.
@koltinnАй бұрын
3:48 put it together?!?!? NAH you lit the runway up!
@my-spinning-wheelАй бұрын
Idk what you’re talking about half the time but you’re the man
Пікірлер
Hi love your vids. I have got hold of a few boxes of very old 4x5 slide film and if they won’t look great as slides when you cross process them in C41 do you process them as normal C41 time and temperature? And also should I expose them based on their age like I would a c41 film Thanks
caffenol
Being aware of Rodinal lasting forever, I didn't hesitate to go for my old 10ish year old bottle... looked good, went for 1+25 and ran some HP5 tgrough it, film came out BLANK, no developing action AT ALL, fixer took away everything and only thing I was left was the acetate
I managed to develop a roll of Agfa Isopan ISS that I found in a camera that I estimate was exposed in the mid 50's. There were images, I wasn't really expecting anything, but there are actual images with identifiable subjects. Which honestly shocked me. Now that was thankfully b&w which tends to age better.
Votre vidéo est très bien faite, avec les couleurs (gamme) et vos prises de vues ensuite, en 6 X 6 du plus bel effet en diapositive.Vous montrez ensuite des planches contact en 35 mm, mais ici, les couleurs paraissent fanées,vos photos en extérieur sont très biens. Si vous développez votre diapositive comme un négatif couleur,vous aurez un négatif sans le filtre orange, et si vous allez à l'agrandisseur, il faudra sur filtrer en jaune.Un film négatif, développé comme une diapositive, vous aurez une diapo avec le filtre orange, et après tirage sur papier, vous aurez un négatif.Avant la fin de la vidéo, qu'est-ce que vous avez voulu dire avec la planche contact sans vraiment de couleurs et les dominantes sur les photos. On a l'impression d'avoir un bain de négatif qui n'aurait pas atteint la température réelle du révélateur.
You should red scale the film and cross process in E6 so the film is color balanced a bit better
Shooting at 800 for everything to me is stupid. I was an Army photographer back in the Neolithic film age. I did mostly photojournalism work and the primary film I used was PlusX 125 ISO. Developed in Microdol-X. It had really fine grain, great tone and dynamic range with good contrast. If it was a darker overcast day. I might use TriX 400 ISO film. We did use a lot of FP4 and some HP5 but it doesn’t give the same results as PlusX with the developer I used. I never pulled film. There was no need for it. If I wanted slower like 25 ISO it was because it was the finest grain. You do this because it has the sharpest image with the most dynamic range and with 35 mm film you can make a poster sized print with little to no grain. And I don’t know what you are metering for but on a sunny day you can shoot 25 ISO film at 1/125 at f/8 or 1/1000 at f/2.8. What lens are you using? Are you using a lens with a maximum aperture of f/3.4 or something. Cause if you are your TTL metering is going to be off by two stops, use a handheld meter. A good one. If you are shooting color film and want a little bit of a pastel look, yes, pull it one maybe two stops tops for artistic sake but not with B&W. 800 ISO has no reciprocity for daylight, unless you use a camera with shutter speeds over 1/4000. Film isn’t digital so you shouldn’t try and shoot it speeds it wasn’t made for. Especially since there are film speeds made in that ISO. In the past TriX was rated at 200, and some cameras only went up to 1/500. And the standard film used was 64 ISO. Use the slowest film for the lighting conditions for best results, I usually start at 100 ISO for daylight, but will go for 25 to 64, if I want more reciprocity. I use 400 and higher only for lower lighting conditions, if I don’t use a flash.
from the creators of "can it run Doom?" comes... "can it trichrome?"
When those turn out, they look great. A color infrared one would look killer if nailed.
Hey, just wanted to drop you a note sunce I think we're in the same town. Not sure why I'm only finding your channel now. I guess the algorithm is finally working.
Gah! I should have watched this before underexposing and underdeveloping my roll.
"I use Rodinal 1:25 at 100°C for about 5 seconds" just great
can you redscale this film please (or any Aerocolor IV film)? since it has a clear base I would like to see how it looks with the red layer first and the blue layer last
I know I'm over 3 years late to the party and you probably won't see this, but... Maybe two of my questions can be answered at once with this suggestion if the rolls are still waiting on ideas... they probably aren't. Is it possible to do bleach bypass in E6? Or is that just a C41 thing? If you can, my, probably ridiculous, idea is to shoot it red scale and then cross process it in E6 with bleach bypass if possible... I think my punctuation in that sentence was correct. Weird sentence to write out.
Technically it's possible. But the problem is with the E6 process silver is left on the entire frame. So if you skip the bleach step you're left with a thick, nearly totally opaque, layer of silver, making the film pretty much unusable. The image would be developed, but just unviewable.
@@atticdarkroom That is quite interesting. I had been wondering if it would do the same thing in E6 that it does to C41 with adding contrast and reducing color. But with what you say, E6 sounds like it is somewhere between color and BW. Now I guess the same thing would happen if you were to bleach bypass a BW process as that also leaves silver behind normally. Also, I just discovered your channel last week and have been binging it after work. Your very entertaining videos have pushed me into wanting to develop my own film. There is so much cool stuff you can do. Keep up the hard work, your videos are awesome.
This tracks with my experience with expired Lucky color. I shot three rolls from three different sources and they ranged from "completely unusable" to "almost not terrible". Plus two of them had fungus growing in the emulsion, which I only ever experienced with badly stored film from the 1970s before.
The labels on the backs made me irrationally angry lmao
What not to do with this film? Buy it. I had a roll come out loosely wound from the camera. I'm expecting light fogging. I haven't had that problem with other brands of film.
UNFATHOMABLY based
I had escura from kick starter was kinda disappointing and I got this as well. If the could clear out the black frame and fully cover the install square would be great. My dark slide was also scratched due to the crank as well. Manual ejection for me is good so I could be creative with multi exposure
I enjoy the idea of single digit ISO film that is this sharp. Good, logical tradeoff. 10/10 would try.
Asides from my previous comment, I liked the third roll of 204,800 ISO push. It looked much better from the other 2 tries and… kinda workable?
c h i r o p r a c t o r
I found an unopened bottle of Orwo R09 from the late 80s (the East German equivalent of Rodinal, supposedly using an older formula) in the attic last year. It's been sitting there for over 30 years, going through big temperature changes in all this time and... it's fine. Somehow doesn't even have any solids on the bottom of the bottle as far as I can tell. The concentrate is pretty much black but seemed to work perfectly well on the short test I've done, I really should do more with it.
For a moment, when you were talking about having plastic development tanks, I thought you just put the film in a pot in the darkroom and poured developer into it xdd.
4:21 this cross-processing would make fitting images for emo-punk rock album.
4:39 made my jaw drop
I had good results pushing those films during development.
Lucky Super 100 was all I used in 2012/3, and it suuuuuuuucked
use adox adotech 4 for better contrast (its used for CMS 20) or if you want to push process, use paper developer like dektol, interesting that it doesn't seem to have anti-halation by the translucency of it but outdoors that ortho looks really crisp!
Eterna RDS 4791 is the only "cinema" film that Fuji still carries as of 2024 (granted... it's a technical separation film, but still). I'm guessing you have to order it in bulk directly from Fuji, since I've never seen it at B&H or other places. I am curious if Fuji produces the film themselves in their Ashigara plant or if someone else produces it for them. Have thought about buying some off of ebay... but I didn't realize that it was orthochromatic. Still, a good looking film -- like an Ortho version of Fuji Acros.
any sort of copy film NEEDS to be stand developed to have any hope of taming contrast. Or 2 bath developed, same idea
We got internet
I bet that would be awesome for a half frame camera.
4:24 wow, they look like Meteor M satellite HRPT imagery, I guess using 2 channels for RGB gives the same color scheme
Once this stuff works it looks amazing! That first roll really caught me off guard!
Que grandes fotografias me ha encantado la de la botella y su huella chapo me quito el sombrero, haber yo no soy quimico , soy aficionado dentro de ese paquete hay los quimicos como el Metol y el Sulfito de sodio por este lado es posible que sean los quimicos y el factor decisibo es el Metol y el sulfito de sodio ya que parece ser que la hidroquinona dejo de funcionar debido a la oxidacion, bien hay un tipico revelador Kodak no comercializado que es D-23 si nos fijamos solo son 2 componentes 7,5 g de Metol y 100 g de sulfito de sodio, hay un curios baño de el señor Stoeckler de 2 Baños con casi los mismos quimicos, formula 2 baños - Baño A metol 5 g sulfito de sodio 100 g 1´ m 1 litro water- Baño B Borax 10 g 1´ m 1 litro water y funciona eso quiere decir que en realidad el D-76 funcionara ya que dispone de un revelador que es el Metol es mi humilde opinion, por cierto suelo usar esos reveladores tanto D-76 como mi queridisimo D-23 un saludo desde BARCELONA ESPAÑA.
Polecam spróbować Kodak estar 1241 to jest mikrofon dokument ISO 6 albo 3 zależy jak i w czym jest wywoływany. Kontrast można zmniejszyć rozcieńczanie wywoływacza
I have a roll of RDS sitting in my freezer.
Attic Darkroom: in case you thought you knew about every film stock in existence.
Think ISO 12 is slow? I've got about 500' left of some Kodak print distribution color film that's ISO 3-6 and tungsten balanced. It's ECP-2E but there isn't any remjet, so you can do it in C-41. I'll spool up some rolls and send them your way.
Looks cool though.
Reminds me a lot of Kodak 2237. Nice vid as always
The master tinkerer. Love how you can make such a black hole of an exploration in niche timesinks so entertaining. Hope you enjoy making thisbstuff as much as i always look forward to the next one😅
Cool video. The film looks a bit like the FPP Super Positive film. I think that is ISO 1.6. I love your channel, always a hoot to see what you are trichroming next.
Trichroming with orthochromatic archival film is the kind of wacky fun I subscribed for.
Every single video I wait for the inevitable "this film would suck for doing trichromes so I went ahead and trichromed it"
How clear is the base ?? Candidate for B&W reversal ??
The color is most likely from staining from Rodinal. This was a copy film and will likely have a clear, or damn near clear (so like suuuuuuuuper light grey) that it won't really be that noticeable. Good normal speed films for reversal would be to Rollei Retro films (80s and SuperPan 200) since they're on a completely clear base. The downside to clear base films (and thin emulsion archival films like the one in the video) is light piping.
Looks just like lithography film. Kodalith also has a similar-ish ruddy red/brown base color and yields what I would consider similarly contrasty and nearly grain-less results at around 12ISO.
It looks like you have a micro film in your hand, I have worked with Fuji micro film, I recommend the Kodak D19 developer.
3:48 put it together?!?!? NAH you lit the runway up!
Idk what you’re talking about half the time but you’re the man