I have made this channel to try to show a different perspective or view of hay/forage farmers. I operate a small operation that is trying to grow and compete with larger grain farmers. I want to spread and share ideas with other farmers so we can all learn and progress as well as share information with non farmers so everyone can get a taste of the farm life and what work goes in to what we do. So please subscribe, like, share, and comment. If there are any questions or suggestions on content or anything just let me know and I will see what I can do. Visit the Franklin County Forage Facebook page at m.facebook.com/franklincountyforage.
If your interested in Franklin County Forage apparel here is the online store: shop.spreadshirt.com/franklin-county-forage/
Пікірлер
$100.00 per hour at least. I live in NY and do a few knotter repairs. I like New Holland square bailers. Last one I repaired was a Model 67. Just last week.
My knoter works perfect but wen te nife arm goes back at his normaal plas the twine coms on the rong side of the bilhook
Great videos. I mostly make hay and graze.
Thanks
I cringe every time I see tykes unsecure on tractors. Friends have lost young children in situation like this!
Looks like more lube would be beneficial after you get the new parts in.!!
Where does it look like we aren't getting grease to? The areas I point about wear don't get lubrication. If you did, chaff would stick to it and cause all kinds of issues.
Both knotters are lose on the mounting frames .
Then you're good. What issues are you having?
We used to stack our bales into heaps of 48s and lead them with a 48 56 bale carrier most of the time it worked but every now and again we had one little accident like maybe 3 bales left in the field mate its so interesting to see how you make hay in the States mate thank you for the education my friend
problem damp hay solution silage
Could be for someone.
I don’t get why you were hitting that piece with the hammer?
The knife arm? I was adjust it to rub on the billhook.
Is that pink bush hog a statement buddy?😳
I assume you have to be talking about the red discbine? It's not a bushhog, also it's custom faded red haha
This Guy Is A Real Life Hero, Fuck Soldier's. This Guy Feeds The Country 💗
Haha I'm not sure if you're being sarcastic or not, I appreciate it if not. If you're being sarcastic I don't glorify farmers, I think we all play our part. Not even sure I qualify as a farmer since I don't raise grains. Either way thanks for the comment
Nice basic explanation of why. Most people have no idea of the problems that can come from baling damp hay.
Thanks. Absolutely a complete loss if it's baled too high moisture.
Make hay while the sun shines
Right on!
Don’t need no tetter some foot this more they flat rake couldn’t bail it. You got it wide conditioner naturally you have to fluff it up and let it dry out more trips.
I thought horses n cows were supposed to eat green grass?
They eat green grass when it grows. However winter time things don't grow they go dormant so this is baled while it grows to get livestock through the winter months.
What’s the number of the tractor you’re using?
White 2-135
I have a Vermeer 9 foot cut. I just cut it. Let it dry unstoppable. Worry about no crimper. Don’t need a crimper Bell hunters acres a hay always dried good. I don’t need no tater to dry it back out. Usually a big crimper will put it in a big wind row and it won’t dry out so you gotta stand it back out re-rake it again, 9 foot three point laid out flat all kinds of hay and it always dried for me. The rake bailed up up wonderful
I struggle to make sense of your comment. But I will say everyone has their way of doing things. Crimper work. I can lay it out flat. The issue is the ground is wet. I windrow so the sun can dry it out before spreading with the tedder. This also keeps me from driving on the hay which it won't dry where I have driven on it and smashed it in the damp soil. Where are you located?
It’s a good idea to shut the tractor off when you get off don’t leave the power running. You don’t ever know when one of them will fly apart and hit you shut the tractor off before getting off unless you’re gonna look at it.
Ok. Say you’ve never run a tractor without saying you’ve never run a tractor. Or… say you work for OSHA without saying you’re a commie. Men have to work.
Don’t have to shut the tractor off, but shutting the pto off might be a good idea. I’ve seen pto’s come off and they will get thrown all over if there isn’t a guard
I knew this comment would come which is why I addressed it in the video. I was no where near the pto shaft or exposed moving shafts. As for turning off the tractor. You never just turn off something when running it under load without cooling off some. Tha KS for the comment though.
What size of white tractors on there I got a 222 I got 221-052-85 1650 1655 and 1855 and 1955. I like the white and Oliver got along real fine. They’re good for you, but what’s one on your on the video? Can’t quite see what brand it is.
It's a White 2-135 on the discbine. I bale with an Oliver 1650 diesel
Love the video and Marty singing!
Thanks. I like the good Ole stuff
I always figured a bale cart is the way to go.
When you say bale cart you're talking about one of those baskets that you dump at the barn? Or an accumulator?
Wyatt does pretty good for a 11-12 year old.
How long are your bales
About 36"
Good looking patch of hay. Raked up nice too
Thanks!
Great job I always look forward to your videos. I know it's a lot of extra work setting up the camera but it is greatly appreciated because my hay making days are behind me. Those were some big wind rows and your NH handled them. Thanks for sharing.
Glad you liked it. It is a lot of extra time and effort. I do enjoy it but it's tough to do it when it seems like no one watches sometimes. I hope to get a little better with my editing set up I'm going to start using before long.
What preservative are you using? I am considering setting up an applicator on my baler, same envirnmental conditions as you 30 miles away in Jackson County.
I use buffered propionic acid, I get mine from suchomski. It's an Agco product but about any buffered propionic acid will be the same.
@@thebalerman I have been thinking of using Silo Guard as it isn't corrosive.
My dad uses the silo king dry with a gandy box. I have thought about going to that. But I believe the acid works better to preserve but for borderline I think the dry is good and seems like it's good to put on everything. I don't like the corrosivness of the acid. I have really noticed much affect on the baler but where it drips on concrete it will make it break up and flake.
Hi, I’m not being funny, but where did you get your hat from, I think it’s really good to keep the sun off and with the vents it’s pretty cool to wear, do you know the name of it? Greetings from Wymondham,Norfolk , UK 🇬🇧
www.dadant.com/catalog/m01049-dadant-white-plastic-helmet They're the best sun hat there is. We call them safari hats. Some call them bee keepers hats and sometimes they're called sun helmets. They're plastic so the don't get soaked with swear and they wipe off if you get them dirty. Has an adjustable band to fit your head and holds it off your head which makes it cooler.
@@thebalerman Thank you for the reply and explanation, I loved it as soon as I saw it, many thanks for the url, link. 👍
No problem happy to help!
Sell that rake
You buying? I've been looking at rakes. But I can't complain about this one. It does good for what it is and I won't find one for less money.
A bar rake would do better we use a rotary rake to wide rows for your baler leave to much of your were closer I may
Yes I know. Just once you use a double wheel rake there is just no going back to spending all day raking. I'm by myself and can afford to spend all day raking then have no time to bale. Double rotary is way out of my price range. Been looking for a double hitch and a couple bar rakes. Or possibly one like my dad's but haven't found one close enough for the right price.
Hay can you do a video on how your squeeze is made like what’s it made out of I want to make one for my farm but there’s no one around that has one lol
I will try to make a video on it. I have quoted a few to build also. It may be a bit before I get a chance to. Check back in from time to time
Ross, I need to borrow that ripper around the end of August, 2024.
What size a tractor you got all that more is it a 2105
I run a 2-135 on my discbine.
I really do enjoy your videos, keep posting videos. Thanks
Awesome! Thanks for watching
Thank you for posting the videos, I just bought 326 and is eager to learn from your videos while it is also fun to watch.
Glad you enjoy them. Hopefully theybwill be helpfull to you.
Always enjoy your videos, glad to see some coming out here lately.
Nice video
Well, the best thing you could do is go get a 9 foot Disel lay the hay out flat no fancy Ted or anything leave a little bit of a stubble rake. Got that for years and conditions like that they bunch it up. Throw the pile get it all wet don’t dry out, you gotta get get it all sprung out sort of dry get 9 foot flat no crimper don’t need a crimper anymore
Well, the best thing you could do is go get a 9 foot Disel lay the hay out flat no fancy Ted or anything leave a little bit of a stubble rake. Got that for years and conditions like that they bunch it up. Throw the pile get it all wet don’t dry out, you gotta get get it all sprung out sort of dry get 9 foot flat no crimper don’t need a crimper anymore
If you want to supply a 9' disc mower I'm willing to do a side by side test and see which method dries better and faster. Put your money where your mouth is.
What is like them all over white tractors that are a good job for me putting pay good hay tractors
What is like them all over white tractors that are a good job for me putting pay good hay tractors
What?
That's what I was thinking but I wasn't gonna say anything
Do you like the JH rake or do you wish I that you would have bought rotary rake? Do you see a problem with moisture since it flip the hay in the middle windrow? And what don't you like about it? We're looking to upgrade our bar rake to a rake like this or a rotary rake. thanks.
Good job Cade, Ross and Dad!
Thanks sis
565
My first cut made over 100 bales/acre which is good but worked us really hard. My wife and I have baled 2960 bales so far. Finally done with first cut.
You guy's should wear ear protection, sounds like those machines are noisy
Yes we should. I wear ear protection when I'm working in the shop with loud stuff. But I always for get when I'm on the tractor because I'm bouncing between jobs and everything and forger and then I don't make time to get ear plugs. I'm going to do better though because I do think it's important to preserve our hearing when we can. thanks
It's common sense to grease every metal to metal component if you want to make sure they move smoothly and do not wear out.
Yes if it is something designed for grease. If not the lathering grease on the outside of a joint doesn't do any good. Oil would have been a better lubricant. But I wd handy and it did the job.
Why are farmers/ranchers so poor at maintaining and repairing their equipment? I thought these were jack-of-all-trades type of men who took pride in their work? Yet after working on ranches for years, I have sadly seen countless pieces of equipment in very bad shape because of lack of maintenance and repairs, thus making their job more dangerous and more expensive, not to mention the frustration level is much higher because nothing ever operates as well as it could.
Honestly if I were guessing it would be a combination of lack of understanding and insufficient time in the day. Farmers have a lot to do and the primary goal is to grow a crop or raise livestock. All the equipment is in support of the main goal. Obviously in a perfect world you would do all the preventative maintenance in the off season and never break down or have any issues while you're running. Im a big believer in preventative maintence and we do decent at preventative stuff but there will always be things that fail that you can't change preventatively. Of course grease and oil changes and everything is the easy standard stuff. But a lot of farmers aren't equipped to take on real in depth and technical repairs. Large farmers will generally have a dealer do that type of work. Small farmers simply can't afford to pay someone else to do a lot of that work. They do what the can and fix the rest as they go. I don't have a really good answer for you. But I would assume that you did the preventative maintenance and repairs on the equipment at the ranch you worked at since you saw the issues. If you're talking about the issues I was working on in this video specifically this was a preventative repair. That's the whole reason we brought the 2nd stacker over to try before we really get into the hay full swing. It is a new addition my dad bought at an auction. And in the end it doesn't matter how perfect your preventative maintenance is, if you are running equipment you will have break downs.
I don’t know how it is in the area on the ranches that you have worked at, but I have seen a lot of farmers who have older aging equipment that have been passed down to generation after generation and well passed the equipment prime regardless of maintenance. Farming equipment is used hard, and while yes, maintenance can help it last it gets to a point of no return. A lot of the equipment that is used is still working because of the ranchers or farmers know how to keep it running and it may not be necessarily that they got it brand new farming equipment is excessively expensive given the circumstance of how reliant upon farmers we are and unless you are a Megalithic farm that owns thousands of acres you make very little profit in order to buy new equipment. Let alone maintain your equipment properly the way it should be on my small farm. We have a few hundred acres and the equipment that we use dates back 40+ years a couple of tractors are from the 40s and they are still running. They are rusty but they run like a top And I would love to upgrade them, but I am not willing to pay the $30,000 plus price tag to do so. I’m sure there are farmers and ranchers out there who just flat out don’t maintain anything but for the most part small farms get by with what they have, and also they work full-time day jobs on top of doing the farming on their land.
@haroldblackwell3212 you're correct. What I feel is pretty late model equipment is from the 80's. Which is now 40 yrs old. My baling tractor is a 67 year model. My white is a 78 year model. I'm happy to run them because to replace with anything newer than 20 yrs old is between $50k-$100k. I can't justify that.
What size deutz do you have looks like a nice size is it a deutz or deutz Alice
It is a 6150 Deutz. About 50hp.
@@thebalerman thank you for getting back with that information
No problem
Good to see you had the bails tied down around where I live most round bail and people transport them with out tying them down and they end up on the side of the road or cause a accident last year one fell of a trailer and hit a real nice pickup and totaled it out
Thanks for watching. I have driven trucks and hauled equipment and everything. I always try to tie things down the correct way. I sure don't want to restack and we don't want to cause issues on the road either.
Forget about your tedder,,, and just rake it and bale it after a couple hours of being in the windrow,
With the rain we’ve been having, we’d be baling wet hay, without a Tedder.
I'd be more than happy to if you want to make an agreement to pay me for any spoiled hay I have.
My 276 makes a good bale But every 3-4 bales are only half bale size.Ever since I changed the friction disc that moves the trip it started doing this.Any help will be appreciated.. thanks...
When you say friction disc are you talking about the piece that moves the trip arm up as the hay moves through the chamber? It sounds like you are just barely catching th pawl that disengages the knotter mechanism. There are a few adjustments. One on them is the slotted holes that mount the star metering wheel and shaft, this adjusts the distance from the end of the trip arm to the pawl. There is also a piece that slides up and down and is what actually makes contact with the pawl. You need to adjust these items so when the arm trips I will allow the pawl past the stop and engage the knotter. But also contact the pawl enough to stop the knotter and not slip past anywhere else in the travel of the trip arm besides the trip point. Let me know how things go and if you're able to get it taken care of.