Welcome to Old Man Adventuring where I'll be taking you along for a journey through some of the adventures I am passionate about. We'll be hitting the road and adventuring on some of my favorite and new mountain bike trails, meeting and making new friends, and testing out what this Old Man can still endure.
Additionally, we'll be broadcasting a few new series on this channel which will include several renovation projects on our beautiful home as well as the sport of hunting which I am now fully invested in and finally An Old Man Cutting Trees down!
We'll also continue to broadcast from various locations where you'll see the series continue to grow. We may even throw in some personal tidbits for some added flavor.
So .............., if your up for it, come along for the adventure as I reboot this journey and we'll see where it ends up!
And on that note: This Old Man ..................... IS ALL IN!
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Wonder how long it will be before he catches his truck on fire
I have the same one. Raise the handle as hi as you can that way your using your weight instead of brute strength. Also I plunge cut from left to right. It's a lot less movement that way. 👍
That monkey beaver harness though!!!
Where did you get the stuff from?
All we need know is the cost sir
A 27" bar is literally into the special use category and for 99" of people has no practical application. That said, why not?
Will that supply enough juice for a 14 ton winch?
awesome job, very well engineered. How about long-term review?
Looking forward to 'How to use toilet paper'...........
LOL, nice! Imagine all the album names one could use to reference a "How to ......." video.
You should show folks how to store the darn thing after you get to where you are going. They are a mess when you are not using them.
This is a great Idea!, I may just do a follow up to this one as I do store them neatly. Thanks!
There's also a need way to store the long strap rolled up in compact form, should have shown that to make a complete video.
Yep, there are several different ways to roll the excess strap up. I showed just a quick and easy way to do it :)
READ THIS: “In through the out door” is the name of led zeppelin’s last album + a way to remember how to use a ratchet strap completely normally. Saved you 4 minutes of literally nothing. The other 5.5 minutes are a demonstration if you want.
I’ve always been told that you shouldn’t pull all the slack out before you begin ratcheting. It takes that drum at least 3 revolutions before it will hold to specs.
Yeah, that makes sense. What I usually do is still pull the strap so there is some tension and then as I ratchet it up, I let enough slack out to engage the cylinder turning.
Here I was thinking that you were going to show us some better or easier way to use a ratchet strap. Nope, this is just the regular way to use feed a ratchet strap.
Yep, its a "How To" video :)
But it's not the regular way, bro. It's the Led Zeppelin method?
@@marcuspetford1098 I appreciate the feedback, thanks for watching.
I just pull mine thru. Is your method better? Also. I typically use the tail either as additional ties or just tie the end.
The method I show here is not necessarily better. There are a few different ways you can use these. I have seen some people go over the top of the cylinder first and then bring the strap back through the slot. If how you are using them now works, just stick with that. Yes, using the tail end as another way to strap items down works also.
I heard Led Zeppelin broke up over their frustration of using a Ratchet Strap
ROFL, Brilliant!
Until the plastic box cracks and than everything is flying around. The box. The papers and the ratchet also. And there are way better ways to bind the rest of the band.
Haha true, that box would normally be sitting in the back seat.
@@oldmanadventuring kzread.info/dash/bejne/fJujmpShpN2TeLA.htmlsi=fiVfFEGH8aCqiIpF
What's a better way to bind the loose band? I would have just rolled it up as close to the ratchet as possible and used a zip tie
@@donmiller2908 Yep, that works too especially if you you don't use them that much. Whatever works!
I bought the same one. Haven't opened up the crate yet. I'm 70 years old,looking forward to getting rid of many stumps and cypress knees. Good luck with yours.
What was the cost of it?
Damn I paid 2 euro each for the handles from Burton Europe. Honestly though, even if I paid what you paid it would still be worth it as they are the perfect handle for the hack.
Good job. I learn something. Yhank you.
If this was routed similar to the Clew’s I think it would work easier
Would this work with a 12000lb winch?
just tried it...just waiting on the fire dept
Great to see your ride. I was there last week and I'll be out there this weekend too. Keyauwee is one of my favorite trails.
Thanks, Yeah, Uwharrie is a great trail system!
What chain are you running? Semi/safety chain?
How’s the 360 still treating you?
Hey my Home state wv we have great mtb biking to 🚲👍👍👍
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Awesome job 👍👍👍👍
I did something similar but I didn’t think to use bike cables. I grabbed some some metal straws from and ran Dyneema kite string (rated at 100lbs) through it. I made the handle just from thin silicone tube. I used knots and shrink tube to anchor the lever and handle. Probably won’t be as sturdy as yours but seems to do the job. Cost about $12
The winch should be run with 10 ga wire directly from the battery per the specifications on the HF website. Read your owner's manual on that winch. The winch draws 25 amps for each 500 lbs it has to pull. At a full 2500 pull, it can draw 132 amps! And that's only if you have ONE layer on the capstan. The current draw goes up from there for each layer of rope. 12ga chassis wire may overheat and blow like a fuse when under heavier loads or if the winch encounters resistance to pulling. That winch has one powerful labor union. Work for 45 seconds, then take a 14m:15s rest break. The labor union may allow the winch to work a few seconds longer with that stump grinder as it probably isn't a full load on the winch.
Can you Clew me in.
My buddy did the same. Works great.
well yur learning. Keeping a saw at optimum operating speed does wonders for cut time, pushing too hard and letting the bar bury beyond the saws power band is a no go. Maybe the muffler mod was a plus, lots of people say it works for all saws but did it now make the muffler non spark arrestor equipped? I would caution to be sure and thoroughly blow out, clean the muffler after that "surgery" as any hard particles can be drawn back in with the engine pulses. My personal view is that some opening up may help but it seems to me people get carried away with that process and go farther than there is a payback for performance. I have looked at a lot of saw mufflers on saws I collect and it looks to me like the supposed restrictions are pretty small in magnitude, the single biggest is the outlet opening shape and diameter. I would be for leaving the internals alone and work on increasing the opening size and air flow capability. Judging from the sound of the engine and the cutting action of the chain you could gain a heck of alot of performance by better carburetor tune and getting that chain to optimum cutting form, more payback there than anywhere else in fussing with saw performance.
I switched mine to the inside position. Burton should be watching this for it's next iteration. Great mod.
Hi , did something very similar a couple of years ago & used mtb rivet on cable guides . I found at that height in France - Italy they interfere with the chairlifts & are easily kinked . I dropped mine right down & used 1” mini pool balls , red & green ( port / starboard ) way cooler & keeps them out of harms way , good work though 🤘
Awesome! I figure anything you can do to make the release easier makes all the difference in the world.
Nice !!
Was much louder after the mod?
Definitely get better chains
Dull chain ?
I have done the carb mod that allows you to lean the carb out. It requires a new main jet inside the carb. It is absolutely required if you run these saws at 6-12 thousand feet. FYI those are the easiest saws to work on with most of the screws the same size and torx number. Never use a screw gun to assemble them because you will over tighten and strip screws. Just snug screws on all plastic saws.
Dude, all you’re doing is walking and you sound like you’re worn out you ain’t never gonna drag your deer back you’re gonna be fucking dead by the time you get it back to your vehicle
No reason for that shot ahole,have some respect for the deer,some hunter you are.
I get mistakes happen. However you should invest in some binoculars. And correct me if I'm wrong a legal buck must have at least 3 points.
Thanks for the feedback. It really wasn't a mistake per se. I did have an unrestricted buck tag that allows me to hunt any size buck. I also have "Antlerless" (AKA: doe) tags which I was hoping I could have used here. There are also restricted buck tags available but I didn't purchase those as my initial tags. I am now out of Unrestricted Buck tags and had to purchase a restricted buck tag to continue hunting bucks. The threshold for restricted buck hunting is 4 points on each side or a minimum of a 12" spread between the antlers. As far as binoculars, I probably should use those and I have a pair but I figured I didn't need them. Looks like I was wrong on that. Hope this helps :)
Depends what state your hunting in
I appreciate what you did here. With infrequent use, short bursts, light and unbound loads, you MIGHT be ok. You are gambling with your truck's wiring harness. 6-10 ga battery quick connect terminals in the bed, or even terminal on 1 end of extended jumper cables, would be worlds better. A heavy rubber mat would save your bed. DO NOT run things in close with that wireless control, there are times when you left off that wireless control and it keeps running for 1.5 seconds or so, it can be very destructive to things or tear itself apart. The wired control response is instant. A piece of hard plastic would save the top rail of your ramp from the cable. If it is ever going to be in the rain, disassemble and seal that control box. Spray conformal coating on the guts of that wireless fob to get a longer life out of it in the rain. Keep the vids coming.
Thanks for the feedback. I like the hard plastic suggestion. I did notice some scratching. Fortunately, This is getting infrequent use and so far its been working great!
That 60 watt iron should be able to heat the wires to solder them. Apply FLUX (not acid for plumbing) to the wires and apply heat with a small bit of flux core 60/40 solder to help xfer the heat to the wires from the iron tip. Hold the iron on place for a LONG time, until you can melt the solder slowly ON the wire, NOT on the iron. Apply a bunch. Hold the iron on the joint for 10 seconds after the last application of solder to heat the entire joint. Your un-soldered joint is going to heat up as it oxidizes and corrodes and as its jiggles loose. This is a fire waiting to happen - at worst. At best, your current flow will be badly compromised.
Thanks for the advice! Definitely one of my issues is that I didn't have any patience to do anything you suggested. I also didn't have any flux. Lessoned learned and now I know. Thanks again for the education!