Wham Bam Systems is dedicated to improving the 3D printing experience through innovation. Our first product line, the Wham Bam Flexible Build System, addresses the need for printers to have a more reliable build surface which is easy to install and makes printing and removing a breeze!
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Solid enclosure, just got my two in the mail and set them up. Very high quality. Makes my ARC and Vision enclosures look like absolute trash. Just buy the Wham Bam hot box, it's truly the best solution for the P1P.
Very helpful, thank you - Ive just picked up a flexi plate aystem for my Halot One Pro and this has given me the confidence I need to install it properly.
@whambamsystems Hello Peter, to print this 3D model, should we use PLA or PETG to get the best Isopropyl alcohol resistance?
@@robertom.5734 probably PETG is most resistant, or polypropylene if you’re able to print in that, but then again even PLA seems to last for many months
Hi Me again, I have some gauges on my build plate , I changed my nozzle with out lowering the bed and it gouged the PEX, can it be wet sanded to remove and even out? or will that completely remove the coating and should just be replaced? Please advise.
Sorry to hear that, please send an email to [email protected] for some advice on trying to reduce the damage or to get a discount code for a replacement.
did not know that my dualsided powder-coated textured pei plate had poor adhesion with petg? i use it for all petg prints and i have to flex the plate hard many times to get prints off it, cant say i agree with you on the "petg does not stick well to pei" part sir. on the contrary u can try yourself? u most likely got those gold colored ones too. i was flabbergasted at how well it does petg. will try this for funsies ;) but i think im going back to the texpei again for sure. the texture is nice too imo
Sorry, where do you feel we say that PETG has poor adhesion to PEI? our video is all about how to reduce the over abound at adhesion
@@WhamBamSystems 0:38 "have a lot of difficulties when it comes to printing on pex and pei" and it really doesnt. its painfree.. no chipped borosilicate, chunks of pex or g10.. i missed a word in translation. norwegian here, english is not best. meant too good as in not what one wold want. too good is also poor in norwegian. as u could understand from the rest of the text, clearly i was impressed with the adhesion and ease of removal from textured pei with petg... did try petg with whambam plate and its about the same tack as the textured pei. had to increase 12c more than pei to get same range of tack. love the plates for abs as they leave a flat surface for branding. the customers is always right yes? good thing we cleared that up then ;) good summer to you sir.
@@reyalPRON thank you too for the careful clarity in our language! My Norwegian is non existent!
@@WhamBamSystems I just re-read my initial comment and i must apologize. it got twisted in translation to come off as offensive. it was meant in opposite way completely! i have two of your pex systems and i completely adore them, i have only tested in a corner with petg as i do like to cook to petg to get the glossy finish and monster layeradhesion it gets. i do not want to risk the pex for petg. the texpei gold plates for petg is as amazing as abs is at 110c with your plates. i can do no brim on most prints even the ones with thin flat solid bases and sharp corners. its just mental how good the pex is. and the lifespan is so good i cant believe how you are making money. i meant to say that i have never had petg fuse with texpei plate as you say, i am curious to what temps and offsets used to fuse. so i can avoid this, as i do cook them good :) i also wonder what problems you had with petg and pei as i have had only good experience with petg. it cant be luck as im the most unlucky person in my town.😂
Has this been tested on 3D printers with an enclosure and glass door? Will it shatter the glass. Obviously, cleaning up glass is better than dealing with a burnt down building but I am curious.
It has not, it would be too subjective, what type of glass? How thick? How far from device? Is the door locked or free to swing? The Cloud has a brief detonation as you can see in the video so theoretically it could shatter your glass. Of course any result of glass breaking or not is still better than a full house or lab fire.
I am a big fan of Wham Bam. I was just looking for a thick build plate for printing ABS and ASA. That XTR would be an excellent choice for sure. I will be reaching out. Thanks for the always excellent quality products.
Thank you for the kind words. We look forward to your feedback on what printers you would like to see this on!
Maybe it's my system, but your audio is very low. May want to fix that. I've been a user of your stuff for a while and your company is great!
Thank you for being an awesome long time customer! We will check those audio settings too.
I heard that this would work with the p1s, but i am not sure how it would ? Could you confirm ?
Thanks for featuring the Mosquito Magnum+ in your Mutant Quick System! We love the ability to change nozzles and print heads for this exact reason - having purpose built setups for specific applications, an addition to the ease of use for maintenance.
i need this so badly
A €5 aliexpress flex plate world just a good
Is the Hotbox compatible with the X1C as well?
Can you do this video again with used/dirty IPA ? This way we can see the final product
do you have installation about m5s anycubic whambam? need video for that please.
Not specifically, but we can help, depends on your model, please send us an email to [email protected] and will be sure to give you a clear instructions
does it fit the p1s for extra insulation?
It will fit the P1S but you will have to remove the front glass door as it will not pass through the HotBox door
Man I have nightmares about sitting there adjusting a wheel with slight turns because the bed wasn't perfect. I got the Elegoo Neptune 3 pro and it's basically night and day. I don't mess with it at all, do the bed measurements and off I go. The only tweaking is done with z offset.
will this help a bed that's been ruined by using stock Bambu PETG settings? Wish the wham bam came with a warning to not use Bambu settings AT ALL or else you'll ruin it on your first print. :(
this is a great product, i can imagine a printer farm having these in every printer. I have a smoke alarm directly above each of my printers but am thinking I should get one of these now too
I just ruined my PEX with flexi plate combo for my X1C (forgot to use glue stick becuase I rarely print PETG) can I just replace the surface with the Build Surface sheet? how do I remove it?
Loved the nice simplicity I've also found a small plastic atomiser, such as the sort you get lens cleaner in, works wonders for minor touch ups. Check whatever you use for resistance to acetone first though. No heat required, although it can help dry your model out quicker if required, Word of caution. DO NOT OVER SPRAY! You can always fix not enough but to much is another story
My Saturn 3 Ultra build plate doesn’t look like that and I’m scared to sand it down that much. 😢
try to sand to break through the etched surface and open the pores, then clean well and install
Thanks for sharing! I've already applied the mag pad but I'll just cut through to access I think. M4 you say? One idea maybe would be to put a washer between the screw and spring if it won't fit around it. Brilliant though. Mainly I didn't know if they were threaded in apparently not. Answered my question!
thank you for the kind words!
The problem that I do not see being addressed in ANY of these videos is that following only removes solid material. It does nothing to remove the dissolved material. Distillation is the only truly effective method.
While true, but in my experience even somewhat dirty IPA still works for cleaning prints after using some simple filtering methods - you just dont want visible gunks sticking to your models.
Just so you all know, you don't have to heat it, it works just fine at room temperature. He says in the video it's very flammable and explosive and then is encouraging people to heat it... and some people may have open flame stove and not think about it. Just do it a little longer at room temperature, no need to put chemicals in a kitchen pan, fumes in your kitchen and in your house, higher risk of fire/explosion etc.
I’m starting to lose hope with the XTR flexplate on my Saturn 3 Ultra. I tried leveling 5 times already, but could never print anything. It’s either to low and the printer starts clicking when homing (although it didn’t when leveling), or too high and the print doesn’t stick to the XTR plate. I tried the method described in the description, as well as many others, but it just does not work (and yes, I did install the correct spacer). Sadly, I’m considering removing the magnet to get my printer back to printing.. Also, the set Z=0 function on the Saturn 3 seems not to function correctly (I know we shouldn’t use that, but I had to try too)
Hello, very sorry for your issues and your frustration. I can confirm that the XTR plate works very well on the Saturn 3 Ultra, let us help you to fix the issues. Please do send us an email so we can give you one-on-one support! [email protected] do send screen shots of your slicer, and let us know what is not printing? nothing sticks to the Flexi Plate, or prints are partially printed? also include screen shots of your models, photos of failures if possible. thanks! if you have no adhesion what so ever, you can increase base layer exposure up to 50s, or sand one side of your Flexi Plate with 400 grit wet dry sand paper and clean well with IPA and fresh paper towel. Also make sure lift distances are 7mms or higher and initial lift speed are 70mm/min or lower. Thanks!
That's so cool!!!👏👏👏
Seems like a neat concept, but for the price I would prefer to build my own toolheads running something like the EBB toolhead board or really any other CAN board, and with klipper this means I don't even have to flash firmware or worry about parameters at all. Your solution seems easier to set up and requires less knowledge, which is neat for a lot of people, but I wonder how applicable it is at the hobbyist level. I can't imagine many people have a reason to change filament size, and nozzle size is an easier swap than entire hotend even with the Mutant system. I'm interested in seeing reviews and long term performance, but always good to see new designs and ideas/implementations
Modifying my Mars 3 right now. Thanks for the amazing and concise explantion that should work for any model.
Where can I find those tools you push led through the hot end. I have three hot ends that are clogged up.
They are included in our Nozzle Maintenance Kit which can be found here: www.whambamsystems.com/products/nozzle-maintenance-toolkit
So the big thing is that stainless steel plate is excellent for both easy removal of prints and great for adhesion. You can use a sharp scraper on the stainless surface without worry of damaging the aluminum surface. I would consider just gluing the stainless plate onto the aluminum buildplate and forget using the magnet.
What would you do if your aluminium bed is not flat? Would you fill up the gaps with aluminium tape?
If it’s really a big bow, you might want to try to remove the build plate and bend it slightly over your knee. If it’s not so big, you could try some aluminum foil with Kapton tape
I hate bed levelling they got me whit the auto bed levelling
Same here! This video is 5+ years old, so much has changed in 3d printing since then. While this skill is still very useful, many newbies to the hobby may now never have to learn such an 'ancient' technique.
The support link gives 404 error.
thank you, it should now be updated!
Do you need to have the side fan and cpu fan installed?
Bambu does not recommend putting the P1P in an enclosure, but if you monitor your internal temps you should be fine, it does help to have a CPU fan on the back, or you can install a side fan and create current, sometimes just opening the door a bit helps control temps.
Why is it that all these videos seem to skip the initial tightening of the bed wheels?
Random association: your grids look like bottom nozzles from PWR nuclear fuel assemblies. Just something from my job.
Sounds like a compliment to us!
'PromoSM'
I actually find my P1S way noisier than the P1P. The enclosure makes every movement amplified, as it resonates with the panels. I tested fully opening my P1S and it's way quieter than open. Your Hotbox looks cool too
With that price? A blanket over it works just fine for 1/5th of a price.
How do you know if you have purchased the original or XTR? Just bought the plate for my Saturn 3 Ultra.
XTR has a thick magnet 3mms and says XTR, it looks like from your order you purchased the non XTR - FBSR thanks
@WhamBamSystems copy. Thank you for the reply. Out of curiosity can't I just change the Z=0 level and skip adding the spacer? Why is it even neccessary?
Despite following these instructions and sanding after doing what I felt was a pretty good leveling on 2 machines, both machines failed to adhere. I'll try to manipulate the settings and I ran a known good print last night we'll see but I'm skeptical that it adhered. I'll try releveling but... I was able to print out the box with the standard machine, was hoping this would be easy
Hi, we can help, do send an email to [email protected] include a screenshot of your settings and a screen shot of what you are printing, and type of resin. Typically if leveled and you are having bad adhesion on base layers (not supports breaking) then you just need to either up your base layer exposure or rough up one side of the Flexi Plate with included 400 grit wet dry sandpaper. but there could be other details in slicer to tune, so looking forward to your email
@@WhamBamSystems So, right after this, it did work. I have printed and adhesion has occurred scuffed and not scuffed. Now I just have to remember to put the bed back before hinting print!!!! ;) also fixing up my vat, replacing the FEP and new resin and using a heater helped return the printer to reliable.
Curious why you don't sell on Amazon, I understand they take 15% or so depending on category but seems the volume sold would offset the fees.
Coming Soon! But it will only be a fraction of our items carried.
A very interesting tutorial and cleaning kit. Most of my machines are direct drive and usually my jams are inside the extruder itself. It's a little tricky with the machines that come with the knock off / clone Bondtech BMGs and getting gunked up material out of the gears and teeth Maybe some ideas for another cleaning kit for extruders!
Thank you for your feedback, we will keep that in mind for future products!
I’ve got your new nozzle tool kit Peter, and it does a outstanding job
Excellent, thank you for your feedback!
Another excellent job Peter thanks for all the information it will help
assuming the power supply and control screen were outside the enclosure, would a 3D printer be salvageable after the use of one ot these? or is the whole 3d printer basically ruined?
Another outstanding product Peter