Apprentice at the American bladesmith society. Been doing bladesmithing for about a year now. Improving and learning every single day. Mostly from my mistakes. Created the channel to follow my journey of pursuing Journeyman Smith level. Also, to gain recognition within the bladesmithing community.
Follow my on Instagram at @v_forged_custom_knives
Пікірлер
Nice job! No bone chop? Kidding. Forge On.
Nice edge, then you whack it into wood. Don’t make sense.
The point of that, is to ensure edge retention and proper heat treatment was done. If heat treat was done correctly, wood is no match for the hardened steel and will not dull the edge. Hence, still being able to cleanly cut the paper after several whacks.
@@v_forged_custom_knives okay Ron Popeill.. set it and forget it
? I'd rather the knife take damage here with me, than to have it chip or glint once it's in the customers hands.
It would make sense if you had the smallest fraction of a clue, but you do not. You must be proud of your ignorance since you spread it everywhere. Try to learn instead of criticizing things you dont know about. You will respect yourself in the morning.
@@jmbstudio6873okay snowflake
Nice
Let the carne asada prep begin! Nice job!
Too hot ?
I heated it to just beyond magnetic. For some reason with Mr. Volcanos parks AAA, I seem to always get a ball of fire. Very rarely does it happen with the parks 50. I need to get a more reliable reading though, maybe a heat treat oven :)
Most quench oils flash at 300F. Im guessing the big ol cleaver heated the oil more than usual.
"HUNGERRR" Gears of war 3 Butcher
U quenching it in oil?
Yes sir, the steel is 5160, so I use a medium fast oil, parks AAA
Nice job.
nice
Thank you :)
I'm guessing this was just an aesthetic choice, but there's a real reason for the clay backed quench. It keeps the spine of the blade softer than the edge, allowing it to flex a bit more, making the whole of the knife stronger. The hamon is a side effect.
While it is aesthetically pleasing and I am trying to hone in my hamon line skills. I thought it would serve well for this particular type of knife. Being a meat cleaver that is going to take a lot of impact and stress from chopping. Having a spine in the mid to high 30s HRC will hopefully make it last forever, if the owner properly takes care of it.
Git R Dun!
Nice job!
I'm glad people are still forging knives by hand. My father use to be a bladesmith, W2 wasn't as scarce back then.
That's a really pronounced hamon line. You did one hell of a good job!
Thank you! Rutland fireplace mortar is what I used. It was the first time using it, and it worked well
Beautiful knife
Thank you :) appreciate it. Working on a few others from that same Damascus billet.
Nice job man! Neighbors be damned. Forge On!!!
The 12 ton press makes life uber easy. Nice job! The kerosene thing is interesting. Ive seen it a few times and wonder who the first KZreadr was to actually do it. If the material is properly cleaned with lacquer thinner then why contaminate it with kerosene and soot? I use LC then heat to red and flux, this keeps all the oxygen out every time. Fads are funny cuz it proves we are mimicking primates. Just like all the stock removal people who never forge to shape, it is silly to waste all that material, imo not to mention belts arent cheap. Forging to shape takes you to the next level as there are no center lines to follow, it is all by eye and feel. Ive seen journeyman bladesmiths who cant forge to shape. They use their hyd press to make a brick then grind to shape. Silly to never up your game, imo. If Jason Knight had a dollar for everyone who adds a shark fin to their spine he would be a rich, rich, rich man. Forge On!!!
Lol ouch. Kerosene is simply used to coat the steel and burn off in the forge and leave behind a small layer of carbon, to prevent any oxidation. I sometimes do it, sometimes don't, same with WD-40. One thing I always do, is flux. I'm not rich, and 15n20/1084 ain't cheap. So Id rather not risk delaminations. And while I would love to forge everything to shape, (which I used to do, and can do) I live in an HOA community, in a culdesac and have gotten complaints about the noise. Hydraulic press and grinding are far less loud. So in lieu of not being fined, I stick to stock removal of the shapes. Clip point wasn't my design. But rather the customer wanted that shape, and so I did as they asked.
Sorry about your griping neighbors. That sux. Kerosene or WD40, I was just saying if it is clean, why put something else on it that might contaminate it? Im on limited income so I cant waste money either. New Jersey Steel Baron is where I get my pattern welded steel materials....also Speedy Metals for brass, copper and other stuff. I use my press mostly to forge to shape, the hammer is just for mild adjustments these days. Im fortunate as I live in a densely populated neighborhood as well, but Im the neighborhood fix it guy/mechanic so no one complains or no more fixes for them. Forge On!!!
Nice work as always 👏👏
Thank you, sir. To you as well. Those are some sweet, repurposed steel knives
Nice
beautiful design
Thank you sir!!
Needs a guard, don't let it slip
Normally, for a full blown Bowie, yeah. But customer wanted a camp knife, with a clip point. Hopefully he doesn't try to stab through a barrel lol
#customchefsknife
Hi 👋 there man?! Hmm I think, it came out gorgeous 😍 knife 👌 🔪
Thank you! I appreciate the feedback! I'm glad you enjoyed watching the process
Nice job!
Thank you! Idk if you noticed, but on the third and final forge weld, I restacked it incorrectly for how I wanted to draw it out. Almost wasted a good amount of steel and hours of time. But I was able to square it up and successfully draw it out without shearing the welds
Its Seax not Saex.
Said the spelling police with absolutely no forging skill whatsoever. Thank you so much for policing spelling on the interweb. Super important job! Now go do something productive, you might respect yourself in the morning.
I'm sure the fallen warriors in Valhalla will forgive my dyslexia and appreciate the steel quality and versatility. But in light of being grammatically and historically correct, I'll edit the title.
No heat treat?
Nah, there's no need, I prefer my knives super brittle. Lol. Yeah I did, just forgot to record it. Since it was a quick knife for myself for work. I only did two 1 hour cycles at 400. Normally I do the standard two 2 hour cycles. Usually at 400, depending on the type of knife
Wonderful
Thank you good sir
Not gonna lie man, beyond the forging, you’re getting damn good at video editing and shit like that 👏🏻👏🏻
Beautiful
Thanks man :)
Awesome! You selling these? I'd buy one just knowing you filmed the whole process
Awesome
Thank you!
❤
Nice work! How much do those run?
depending on what kind of handle material and type of guard material. roughly 175 with handmade and handstitched leather sheath. Damascus blade would be a bit more because of the time and cost of materials. Everything is forged here in my garage lol.
IS THAT A JOJO REFERENCE !??!?!? HAMONNNN OVERDRIVE 👹👹👹🗣🗣🗣🗣☠️☠️☀️☀️☀️☀️☀️🫧🫧🫧🫧🫧👺👺👺👺👺👺
Beautiful knife
Well damn came out real nice
Well damn came out real nice
Thanks bro :) quick little knife for my dad's Best Friend.. I appreciate the compliment
cool knie
Thank you!
Was not expecting that reveal, very nice!
Nice!
beautiful work my friend! I love that handle work!
I thought I was still on the edible with that transition 😅😅
Have you ever tried etching at a 400 grit instead of such a high polish?
I usually go to 600. This case, I went to 600 and then for fun, hit it with 1000 and buffed it.
@@v_forged_custom_knives It looks good. I always get weird etching at a high polish. Keep up the good work.
STUNNING WORK! WELL DONE!! 👍👍👍👍
That thing is beautiful!!!!
Gorgeous.
Thank you! Cheers!
With the TEMP delta, I assumed the copper would get squeezed out in trip hammer. Other videos that detail the whole process?
Thats why the prep is so important on copper damascus. got to make absolutely certain the copper is completely sealed into the billet. Welding that small bit took more than 30 minutes. mainly because copper does not take the weld well at all. When drawing it out, you cannot let temp get above 1600. if it does, have to let it cool down a bit before squeezing or hammering on it. I'll find some of the videos I took on the process!
I want it
Im going to try my hand st damascus soon. Is there a reason you did stock removal rather than forging it out to save some materials? Is it because it'll mess up the pattern?
It's basically a combination of not wanting to disrupt the pattern so I can get the uniform pattern on the bevels. But the biggest reason, is I live in a cul-de-sac and my neighbors would hate me if I was hammering away lol.
looks like a shit
I think you can do better