Will you make me a setup like yours? I just bought an 03 650L with 5k miles.
@jamespolucha87902 ай бұрын
Do you sell this as a kit ?
@fanatykCZ5162 ай бұрын
cool!
@jamespolucha87902 ай бұрын
Fantastic
@pmaly94733 ай бұрын
The good ol’ simple dayz captured on real film 🎥, no go pros needed! Most of these bikes filmed came with lights and license plates, a mirror, speed and odometer. All that came off for these demons of the dirt, and when they could earn, beg, borrow or steal, they splurged in a new tire, better grips, a fork brace or cooler looking exhaust. Riding these bikes hard taught them to enjoy motorcycles more than any other self propelled vehicles on the planet, even with only 8 horsepower. Thank you Jim for sharing this precious morsel of our Moto history! 🏁
@mdavis84303 ай бұрын
Damnit man I can't watch your video the camera shakes too much.
@mdavis84303 ай бұрын
hold the camera still
@billhamilton23663 ай бұрын
Well I'm back and have made a sprocket that incorporates the longer contact / purchase with the full length of the spline as well as the KTM spacer. Replace the seal. Slip on an O-ring to seal between the sprocket and the counter shaft next to the bearing race. Install the new sprocket with extended spacer attached. Button up the retainer disk and red Loctite the screws. Job done.
@robinsongguitars3 ай бұрын
Good job. Best to keep the splines lubed with moly grease. I usually my splines when I change the oil and filter every 1000 miles or so. Also check the valve clearance. As you ride and even go through water crossings, etc. the grease goes away and adds to the wear.
@kingoffunelvispresley2615 ай бұрын
I would like to see what Tools you Carry With You 🙏🏻 & i Would Also Love To See How You Moved The Battery & Were You Have it Mounted Sir 🙏🏻 & you Did A Lot of Awesome Upgrades To This XR 👍👍👍 Someone Ran into me on my 79 Honda CBX & i Had To go through 9 Surgerys Just To Walk Again😳 🤜🏼🤯🤛🏼 & i haven't Been On A Motorcycle Sence 2010 & I Said if i Ever Get Another Bike I'm going to be an Enduro so I can jump the curb or Ride over The Car in Front of Me , So No,one Can Ever Hurt Me Ever Again 🤗
@Surfonastilt6 ай бұрын
Hi; was wondering with the sprocket, did you tap the shaft or use an expansion bolt? If you tapped it do you mind sharing what thread? 1/2x20 seems like it might work, but with the hardened steel will probably be tough. I think its a great idea for eliminating the sprocket play that leads to wear!
@robinsongguitars6 ай бұрын
The countershaft can't be tapped as it is case hardened. I ended up machining a piece of SAE4130 steel with a knurl on the OD to slip inside the bore on the countershaft with about .030" clearance. Thread size is 3/8-16. This leaves enough wall thickness on the bushing. I cleaned everything well with acetone to remove all oils, etc, scored up the bore on the inside of the shaft with a Dremel to help hold the bushing in with JB Weld. NOTE: The bushing does not hold the sprocket on; it just is an anchor to hold the large cover with about .010" preload. The cover helps hold the moly grease on the splines and helps keep the sprocket face to run true.
@Surfonastilt6 ай бұрын
Thankyou for the reply! I figured you found a way to tap it, and thought that was a great idea, ill look into what you did. eliminate play and help eliminate wear!
@valroache92266 ай бұрын
what ktm model is the counter shaft spacer from thanks
@robinsongguitars6 ай бұрын
You can use the spacer from any KTM 125, 250, 350, 450 or 500 EXC, XC-F, SX-F, etc. These are not long enough to properly space the XRL sprocket. I just machined and heat treated a piece of SAE4140 steel and ground it to have the the outside face of the sprocket flush with the inside wall of the wide retention groove.
@russellsherbert48658 ай бұрын
I would love to see a video on how you did the oil cooler!
@bigmower9 ай бұрын
You can actually buy a sprocket for the XR650l that is designed to prevent the wear of the primary shaft and it costs less than 40.00. I just put one on yesterday and it is a perfect fit. What this guy is doing is silly and totally unnecessary. Way too many parts that could possibly loosen.
@robinsongguitars9 ай бұрын
Thanks for your response. I have researched all aftermarket sprockets for the XR650L and I run the Fritzco. Many are great, however they do not stop wear on the splines; they just slow down the wear. The sprockets can still rock on the splines resulting in eventual wear. Unless the sprocket is held tightly against a shoulder with a nut some rocking some will occur. Chain stretch, snatch, improper adjustment, wheel balance, etc. can cause rocking. Once it starts it will continue to worsen over time. The system I designed stops all rocking of the sprockets on the splines and helps keep the moly grease in and dryness/dirt out. My sprockets butt up against a shoulder to minimize rocking. Nothing has loosened on my system in over 15k miles. These bikes would benefit form a rear cush hub. Don't forget to keep your splines lubed with a good moly grease. Thx again for your view.
@bigmower9 ай бұрын
So far there is over 20 thousand miles on the bike and the wear on the splines looks normal, not even close to being worn down. Fritzco is a very good replacement instead of using the stock one it would seem.
@SASQUATCH20510 ай бұрын
You lost me at KTM sprocket spacer my friend......
@Crxpert110 ай бұрын
How did you make the steering lock work!? That's awesome
@robinsongguitars10 ай бұрын
During the CNC programming phase I measured the two 8mm threaded holes on the underneath side along with the bore where the ignition switch fits. I used a CMM (Coordinate Measuring Machine). Everything fit nicely. Upper triple clamp is probably 2-3x stronger than OEM. Doesn't get any better than this...
@ryanwessler14022 ай бұрын
@@robinsongguitars Would you be willing to share your cad files so we can also experiment and give this a try? Amazing work! super excited for you. I cant wait to get this done!
@wadenvern Жыл бұрын
where did you get the gnurled threaded bushing? I cannot seem to find one where the thread is the same size as the gnurl. I can only get a 1/4 inch hole in the output shaft and want the threads to be as large as possible...thanks!
@robinsongguitars Жыл бұрын
Hello, I machined a knurled sleeve that was threaded 3/8-16. I measured the depth of the bore in the end of the countershaft so the sleeve would be flush with the face of the countershaft. I then cleaned everything well with acetone and bonded the sleeve inside the countershaft with JB Weld. Be careful not to get the JB Weld in the threads. The sleeve does not hold in the sleeve. It just keeps the cap (Belleville washer) in place with about .015” preload. The hefty snap ring holds the sprocket on. This system overcomes the poor design.
@wadenvern Жыл бұрын
@@robinsongguitars Thanks so much for the info! What torque specs do you think I could use to tighten the bolt on to the threaded end of the sleeve? When you say preload, do you mean there is .015" space between the end of the output shaft and the inside of the bellville washer that the shaft faces? Thanks for the help and the info, it is greatly appreciated :)
@jl4093 Жыл бұрын
Strong coffee that day...
@fredclow9326 Жыл бұрын
Nice job, made a great bike even greater
@WILLY52368 Жыл бұрын
What a geniuses, any chance you make these parts for sale if not would you consider it? I could sure use this mod I'm really in need for this, I'm using KKBIKES sprocket mod but it didn't do much to tighten up the slack. I'm nowhere near machining spmething like that and finding someone that can do it good luck I wish. There's 3 motorcycle shops here on the island 1 never answers his phone and cannot leave a message because it's the other one never seems to have time and the 3rd is former Harley Davidson they don't deal with Honda is their excuse. So as a 650 owner myself if I knew about this when I first bought my bike I may have been able to prevent such wear back then if I knew what I know now. Please find it in your heart to share your talent by providing for the less fortunate, Aloha.....🤙
@robinsongguitars Жыл бұрын
It would be pretty difficult to mass produce this setup due to the different manufacturing tolerances of the parts involved. Your best bet is to buy Fritzco sprockets on eBay and keep the splines greased up with a good moly lube. A cush hub (not available) would also help. Keep your chain properly adjusted and lubed. That is not too tight and not too loose. Splines wear surprisingly quick if you run them dry and have an improperly adjusted chain. The fix is splitting the cases and buying a new countershaft and gasket set. Since you have the engine apart you may as well rebuild the top end and perform a valve job with new valve guide seals, and cam chain, etc. Pretty poor design on Honda's part to put something like this out to the public.
@WILLY52368 Жыл бұрын
@@robinsongguitars Like I said I barely have the skills to change my own tire so splitting the case would never happen in my lifetime. Although it probably will happen one day the way this is going but I'd like to prevent that as much as possible that's why when I seen your work I thought I'd ask. Would you consider making me that sleeve that you slid over the shaft, that could be very beneficial to my application prolonging my use.
@walkerskii Жыл бұрын
I just watched your xr650L 35 mods vid, thx for that excellent content! I commented there, if you have time to read it pls. My 3 prize possessions are: a 1978 Suzuki RM125, a 1980 Honda XL250s & a 1987 Honda 250 FourTrax quad (all are 100% original) I also have a modified 2002 Yamaha wr250-F (similar to the YZ250, very different to the WR250-r) & a wimpy 2014 XT250, which is the one I want to replace with a modified 650L like yours.
@walkerskii Жыл бұрын
Wonderful video! Thank you for your time I want to use your bike as a template for building one myself. I'm surprised you didn't go with larger foot pegs & I've heard people take out the snorkel, I believe that is a better air filter system? It's been three years since this video was introduced do you have an update video please?
@robinsongguitars Жыл бұрын
I have a few more videos on the bike. Search my channel: robinsongguitars. I have a later video with over 50 mods. Now there are about 60 mods, give or take. I did put larger footpegs as shown in a later video. The snorkel and oil separator were removed before I bought the bike. I ran a short extension on the crankcase vent hose under the seat and installed a 5/8" Uni crankcase filter. This also required blocking off the hose nipple on the front side of the airbox to keep dirt out. Works great. Thank for the comment.
@robinsongguitars Жыл бұрын
Recently received a correction on the top 10 finishers by Gary Bailey, who finished third and top American. Good job, Gary. Tim Hart #33 (Orange Montesa Cappra) was leading Gary (Greeves Griffon) for the first few laps and Gary edged him out on the last lap or two. RIP Tim Hart and Dave Bickers.
@MXprofessor11 Жыл бұрын
David is doing ok... as ok can be!! Till you are dealing with what he deals with every day you wouldn't understand. Awesome footage from back in the day......
@pmaly9473 Жыл бұрын
Well done 👍 Mr. Robinson!
@wolffo999 Жыл бұрын
a modern headlight will really freshen up the look
@XRacerify Жыл бұрын
It was sand and whoops followed by more sand and whoops. After racing there, anywhere with sand and whoops was relatively mild.
@erikeggenbakstad Жыл бұрын
Thank you! Another question, do you think you will bottom out with your shocks by half an inch difference? That is not much though. I think you will be fine 🙂 Have a 2002 XR650R and I happen to have a set of 2010 CR450R fork legs. But I don't have the triple clamps. Plan is to make a new stem, and mill away the steering stems and make new ones with counter sunk bolts.
@robinsongguitars Жыл бұрын
If you have the front and rear sprung correctly for your weight and riding style I don't think losing and inch of travel should be an issue unless you are riding at a high speed pro level. Some faster guys run the next step stiffer springs to make up for the lowering. I am in process of lowering my other bike (2010 KTM 530 EXC-R) 30mm (1-3/16") to help me swing my leg over the seat. Lowering the bike will also lower the CG. This makes the bike feel lighter, less top heavy, and easier (less effort) to ride in the tight stuff. Lowering the rear places the shock slightly farther into the leverage ratio at the first part of the travel. This means the shock will be slightly stiffer initially for the same amount of travel than without lowering. On most bikes this should barely be noticeable. Lowering the front affects the air spring slightly (towards the end of the travel). Remember: it is important to lower the front and rear the same amount. I may have extra triple clamps.
@erikeggenbakstad Жыл бұрын
@robinsongguitars Hi! I have lowered my XR also. Got a tri-link kit from Power-Barn as I am only 5.8 and it make the bike a bit challenging when riding tight forrest trails. Works great. Lowered the front same amount. Still need to test more. New metzeler 6mm dubbed tyres for winter riding. Not enough snow and ice yet though. Yes, I could be interested in your triple clamps if you have one laying around 😀 Pm? Cheers, Erik.
@mobiledetail4you Жыл бұрын
So cool to add the kick starter!
@etaunknown4024 Жыл бұрын
From what I can see it looks like thats a right sharp pig!
@NatsDADCrook Жыл бұрын
What a cracker .. nice vid man and hello from the uk 🇬🇧
@MrKmd27 Жыл бұрын
Wow, very impressive work and great mods.
@flhxs3057 Жыл бұрын
Then there is the rest of us, mere mortals! LoL Thanks, Jim!
@rjpeck9718 Жыл бұрын
I didn't understand a damn word lol
@patrickroach72892 ай бұрын
I have no issues.
@robinsongguitars Жыл бұрын
In order to do this successfully you need to have some machinist skills to accurately measure, machine and heat treat the parts. Due to manufacturing tolerances it would be next to impossible to mass produce these as a kit to sell. Wish I could. People have asked about the Superpinion sprocket. They seem like they will help slow down spline wear. What I don't like about them is they are very pricey and can't be run inside out. The attachment of the sprocket is definitely the weak point on the "L".
@kyles5997 Жыл бұрын
I have no fucking idea how to install that properly even after watching
@chad3601 Жыл бұрын
Have you looked into the kk bike sprocket from Italy?
@robinsongguitars Жыл бұрын
These sprockets seem to be good, although pricey. The only downside I can see is they are not reversible on the splines.
@JedediahSmith3422 жыл бұрын
Sounds fair enough to me dude 😎🇺🇸✌🏽
@riyaandrayplay68562 жыл бұрын
Can you make me a kit? I'll pay! I just have no way of crafting things out of titanium. Or what size the lock rings are etc...
@johnnykwest78192 жыл бұрын
It's been 8 months since your last vlog looking forward to more great vlogs.. any mods you don't recommend for XR650L?
@robinsongguitars Жыл бұрын
Haven't found any mod I wouldn't do on the "L". The two best are the 2nd+5th gear mod and the lithium battery relocate under the seat. The stock suspension on these is pretty bad for any serious off road riding. The stock bend-o-matic bars are way too low.
@allistairneil89682 жыл бұрын
You are one of the GOLDEN few who actually bothered to do a proper kickstart install. Others are reduced to cannibalising dommies (NX650)! Respect. Why don't they do this in the factory and slap a bigger tank on it while they are about it.
@zakaroonetwork7772 жыл бұрын
You could sell this as a kit... Id buy one.
@rickyj20132 жыл бұрын
“They’re incandescent so they’re really bright” what?!?
@tabryis2 жыл бұрын
King shit 💪
@bradwalters75112 жыл бұрын
Why doesn't Honda address these problems?
@robinsongguitars2 жыл бұрын
Good question. People keep buying the bikes. Most, if not all bikes have some bugaboos that never seem to get fixed. Some of the older Euro bikes were famous for putting out the same half-baked designs for years.
@billhamilton23662 жыл бұрын
I've watched this video about 10 times now and gathered much of the information I need to carry on with my own project.. I have a couple of questions about your application. How do you seal the clearance gap between the KTM spacer and the countershaft to prevent oily from leaking between the two and and leaving the engine at the joint between your manufactured ring and or the sprocket. I believe KYM uses an O-ring in a recess to stop that migration. My solution is to make a sprocket with an extended shoulder that engages the entire spline and whatever is left over to the countershaft bearing will be filled with a spacer made from 8620 steel and ground to fit. The locking plate will also be made to fill the entire width of the locking ring gap. before bolting it to the sprocket. My installation is on a DR650 which has a slightly different countershaft however and eliminates the small ring spacer you had to manufacture. ....I too have these skills. I liked your approach to using a snap ring on the end of the countershaft. I also have an XVR750 Africa twin on which I will be using a similar approach. great ideas eh? Great minds think alike / fools seldom differ.
@robinsongguitars2 жыл бұрын
I like the Fritzco sprockets as they are reversible when the teeth start to hook and have full width spline engagement. This is definitely the weak spot on these bikes. It is important to keep a good moly grease (CV Joint grease or similar) on the splines to keep moisture and dirt out. When the splines dry wear ramps up quickly. I use a split collar (SAE 4340 HT to 48-52 Rc) that fits snugly inside the wide groove where the OEM lock plate rests. This is held in place with a pretty stout snap ring. I carefully measured my lock plate groove and machined the split collar to fit with a thousandth or two clearance. Then I split it with a .014 slitting saw before HT. The gap on the snap ring at 90 degrees to the gap in the collar. This is actually what holds the sprocket on. The cover I use acts as a Belleville washer with a little preload to keep the sprocket from trying to rock on the splines. The cover also helps keep the moly grease in the splines and keeps out dirt and water. The standard KTM spacer uses a thin wall o-ring to seal the countershaft from the collar/spacer. These fit into a little counterbore on the end of the collar that is inserted onto the countershaft. You can actually buy these at your local hardware store as they are a standard size. Forgot what the number is. Pretty EZ to figure out. I have close to 10,000 miles on this setup and the splines still look new with no rocking of the sprocket. If, and when the KTM collar wears I will simply machine another the correct length.
@robinsauls45512 жыл бұрын
I was there, the very first race I ever attended. Hooked me and On Any Sunday reeled me in!
@billhamilton23662 жыл бұрын
This is the bain of everyone who has owned and serviced their motorcycle for years. Very good idea from a problem solver. Don't know why Honda would do this along with many other manufacturers. It would take very little to machine the sprocket to fit onto the countershaft splines properly in the first place. No other industry mounts drive sprockets so they float on their splines the way Motorcycle manufacturers do.
@robinsongguitars2 жыл бұрын
Yes, a pretty cheesy design form Honda in an effort to keep the manufacturing costs down. Another bugaboo is the big gap between 1st and 2nd gear. These big singles put out a tremendous amount of torque, which takes its toll on these splines. With dry splines open to the environment rapid wear is what happens. This is an EZ fix for Honda as they have a better suited 2nd drive gear in their NX650 bike. Honda could also put the 5th driven gear off the non-USA FMX650 to act as an overdrive. 5th gear is a little too close to 4th as is. This is the kind of engineering you expect from many Euro bikes.
@MXprofessor112 жыл бұрын
Results top 10 Kring, johnson, Bailey, Roberton, Bickers, Hart, ArneBonn, Hallman, Aberg, Stodulka, west
@robinsongguitars Жыл бұрын
Sorry for the misleading info. I tip my hat to you for coming in third. Thanks for the correction of the finish. How is David doing these days? He was unstoppable on the mighty CR500 in the Motocross des Nations in '86 with Rick Johnson and Johnny O'Mara. Sad that Dave Bickers and Tim Hart passed away a while back and more recently Andre Malherbe.
@M14armorer2 жыл бұрын
Wonderful old video
@rolandrodriguez38542 жыл бұрын
Yeah that's it, block airflow to the head. Oil cooler works. Head runs hotter. 🤨🤔
@robinsongguitars2 жыл бұрын
No air blockage to the head or cylinder. The oil cooler fins allow great air flow and don't block any fins or air flow. The scoop on the front of the cooler has a venturi effect and actually speeds up air flow through the cooler and past the engine fins. Overall, it is a clean job and wouldn't run this bike without it. The OEM front fender blocks most of the air to the cylinder and head. That is the real heat culprit. Want a cooler running XRL, put a vented front fender on...
Пікірлер
Will you make me a setup like yours? I just bought an 03 650L with 5k miles.
Do you sell this as a kit ?
cool!
Fantastic
The good ol’ simple dayz captured on real film 🎥, no go pros needed! Most of these bikes filmed came with lights and license plates, a mirror, speed and odometer. All that came off for these demons of the dirt, and when they could earn, beg, borrow or steal, they splurged in a new tire, better grips, a fork brace or cooler looking exhaust. Riding these bikes hard taught them to enjoy motorcycles more than any other self propelled vehicles on the planet, even with only 8 horsepower. Thank you Jim for sharing this precious morsel of our Moto history! 🏁
Damnit man I can't watch your video the camera shakes too much.
hold the camera still
Well I'm back and have made a sprocket that incorporates the longer contact / purchase with the full length of the spline as well as the KTM spacer. Replace the seal. Slip on an O-ring to seal between the sprocket and the counter shaft next to the bearing race. Install the new sprocket with extended spacer attached. Button up the retainer disk and red Loctite the screws. Job done.
Good job. Best to keep the splines lubed with moly grease. I usually my splines when I change the oil and filter every 1000 miles or so. Also check the valve clearance. As you ride and even go through water crossings, etc. the grease goes away and adds to the wear.
I would like to see what Tools you Carry With You 🙏🏻 & i Would Also Love To See How You Moved The Battery & Were You Have it Mounted Sir 🙏🏻 & you Did A Lot of Awesome Upgrades To This XR 👍👍👍 Someone Ran into me on my 79 Honda CBX & i Had To go through 9 Surgerys Just To Walk Again😳 🤜🏼🤯🤛🏼 & i haven't Been On A Motorcycle Sence 2010 & I Said if i Ever Get Another Bike I'm going to be an Enduro so I can jump the curb or Ride over The Car in Front of Me , So No,one Can Ever Hurt Me Ever Again 🤗
Hi; was wondering with the sprocket, did you tap the shaft or use an expansion bolt? If you tapped it do you mind sharing what thread? 1/2x20 seems like it might work, but with the hardened steel will probably be tough. I think its a great idea for eliminating the sprocket play that leads to wear!
The countershaft can't be tapped as it is case hardened. I ended up machining a piece of SAE4130 steel with a knurl on the OD to slip inside the bore on the countershaft with about .030" clearance. Thread size is 3/8-16. This leaves enough wall thickness on the bushing. I cleaned everything well with acetone to remove all oils, etc, scored up the bore on the inside of the shaft with a Dremel to help hold the bushing in with JB Weld. NOTE: The bushing does not hold the sprocket on; it just is an anchor to hold the large cover with about .010" preload. The cover helps hold the moly grease on the splines and helps keep the sprocket face to run true.
Thankyou for the reply! I figured you found a way to tap it, and thought that was a great idea, ill look into what you did. eliminate play and help eliminate wear!
what ktm model is the counter shaft spacer from thanks
You can use the spacer from any KTM 125, 250, 350, 450 or 500 EXC, XC-F, SX-F, etc. These are not long enough to properly space the XRL sprocket. I just machined and heat treated a piece of SAE4140 steel and ground it to have the the outside face of the sprocket flush with the inside wall of the wide retention groove.
I would love to see a video on how you did the oil cooler!
You can actually buy a sprocket for the XR650l that is designed to prevent the wear of the primary shaft and it costs less than 40.00. I just put one on yesterday and it is a perfect fit. What this guy is doing is silly and totally unnecessary. Way too many parts that could possibly loosen.
Thanks for your response. I have researched all aftermarket sprockets for the XR650L and I run the Fritzco. Many are great, however they do not stop wear on the splines; they just slow down the wear. The sprockets can still rock on the splines resulting in eventual wear. Unless the sprocket is held tightly against a shoulder with a nut some rocking some will occur. Chain stretch, snatch, improper adjustment, wheel balance, etc. can cause rocking. Once it starts it will continue to worsen over time. The system I designed stops all rocking of the sprockets on the splines and helps keep the moly grease in and dryness/dirt out. My sprockets butt up against a shoulder to minimize rocking. Nothing has loosened on my system in over 15k miles. These bikes would benefit form a rear cush hub. Don't forget to keep your splines lubed with a good moly grease. Thx again for your view.
So far there is over 20 thousand miles on the bike and the wear on the splines looks normal, not even close to being worn down. Fritzco is a very good replacement instead of using the stock one it would seem.
You lost me at KTM sprocket spacer my friend......
How did you make the steering lock work!? That's awesome
During the CNC programming phase I measured the two 8mm threaded holes on the underneath side along with the bore where the ignition switch fits. I used a CMM (Coordinate Measuring Machine). Everything fit nicely. Upper triple clamp is probably 2-3x stronger than OEM. Doesn't get any better than this...
@@robinsongguitars Would you be willing to share your cad files so we can also experiment and give this a try? Amazing work! super excited for you. I cant wait to get this done!
where did you get the gnurled threaded bushing? I cannot seem to find one where the thread is the same size as the gnurl. I can only get a 1/4 inch hole in the output shaft and want the threads to be as large as possible...thanks!
Hello, I machined a knurled sleeve that was threaded 3/8-16. I measured the depth of the bore in the end of the countershaft so the sleeve would be flush with the face of the countershaft. I then cleaned everything well with acetone and bonded the sleeve inside the countershaft with JB Weld. Be careful not to get the JB Weld in the threads. The sleeve does not hold in the sleeve. It just keeps the cap (Belleville washer) in place with about .015” preload. The hefty snap ring holds the sprocket on. This system overcomes the poor design.
@@robinsongguitars Thanks so much for the info! What torque specs do you think I could use to tighten the bolt on to the threaded end of the sleeve? When you say preload, do you mean there is .015" space between the end of the output shaft and the inside of the bellville washer that the shaft faces? Thanks for the help and the info, it is greatly appreciated :)
Strong coffee that day...
Nice job, made a great bike even greater
What a geniuses, any chance you make these parts for sale if not would you consider it? I could sure use this mod I'm really in need for this, I'm using KKBIKES sprocket mod but it didn't do much to tighten up the slack. I'm nowhere near machining spmething like that and finding someone that can do it good luck I wish. There's 3 motorcycle shops here on the island 1 never answers his phone and cannot leave a message because it's the other one never seems to have time and the 3rd is former Harley Davidson they don't deal with Honda is their excuse. So as a 650 owner myself if I knew about this when I first bought my bike I may have been able to prevent such wear back then if I knew what I know now. Please find it in your heart to share your talent by providing for the less fortunate, Aloha.....🤙
It would be pretty difficult to mass produce this setup due to the different manufacturing tolerances of the parts involved. Your best bet is to buy Fritzco sprockets on eBay and keep the splines greased up with a good moly lube. A cush hub (not available) would also help. Keep your chain properly adjusted and lubed. That is not too tight and not too loose. Splines wear surprisingly quick if you run them dry and have an improperly adjusted chain. The fix is splitting the cases and buying a new countershaft and gasket set. Since you have the engine apart you may as well rebuild the top end and perform a valve job with new valve guide seals, and cam chain, etc. Pretty poor design on Honda's part to put something like this out to the public.
@@robinsongguitars Like I said I barely have the skills to change my own tire so splitting the case would never happen in my lifetime. Although it probably will happen one day the way this is going but I'd like to prevent that as much as possible that's why when I seen your work I thought I'd ask. Would you consider making me that sleeve that you slid over the shaft, that could be very beneficial to my application prolonging my use.
I just watched your xr650L 35 mods vid, thx for that excellent content! I commented there, if you have time to read it pls. My 3 prize possessions are: a 1978 Suzuki RM125, a 1980 Honda XL250s & a 1987 Honda 250 FourTrax quad (all are 100% original) I also have a modified 2002 Yamaha wr250-F (similar to the YZ250, very different to the WR250-r) & a wimpy 2014 XT250, which is the one I want to replace with a modified 650L like yours.
Wonderful video! Thank you for your time I want to use your bike as a template for building one myself. I'm surprised you didn't go with larger foot pegs & I've heard people take out the snorkel, I believe that is a better air filter system? It's been three years since this video was introduced do you have an update video please?
I have a few more videos on the bike. Search my channel: robinsongguitars. I have a later video with over 50 mods. Now there are about 60 mods, give or take. I did put larger footpegs as shown in a later video. The snorkel and oil separator were removed before I bought the bike. I ran a short extension on the crankcase vent hose under the seat and installed a 5/8" Uni crankcase filter. This also required blocking off the hose nipple on the front side of the airbox to keep dirt out. Works great. Thank for the comment.
Recently received a correction on the top 10 finishers by Gary Bailey, who finished third and top American. Good job, Gary. Tim Hart #33 (Orange Montesa Cappra) was leading Gary (Greeves Griffon) for the first few laps and Gary edged him out on the last lap or two. RIP Tim Hart and Dave Bickers.
David is doing ok... as ok can be!! Till you are dealing with what he deals with every day you wouldn't understand. Awesome footage from back in the day......
Well done 👍 Mr. Robinson!
a modern headlight will really freshen up the look
It was sand and whoops followed by more sand and whoops. After racing there, anywhere with sand and whoops was relatively mild.
Thank you! Another question, do you think you will bottom out with your shocks by half an inch difference? That is not much though. I think you will be fine 🙂 Have a 2002 XR650R and I happen to have a set of 2010 CR450R fork legs. But I don't have the triple clamps. Plan is to make a new stem, and mill away the steering stems and make new ones with counter sunk bolts.
If you have the front and rear sprung correctly for your weight and riding style I don't think losing and inch of travel should be an issue unless you are riding at a high speed pro level. Some faster guys run the next step stiffer springs to make up for the lowering. I am in process of lowering my other bike (2010 KTM 530 EXC-R) 30mm (1-3/16") to help me swing my leg over the seat. Lowering the bike will also lower the CG. This makes the bike feel lighter, less top heavy, and easier (less effort) to ride in the tight stuff. Lowering the rear places the shock slightly farther into the leverage ratio at the first part of the travel. This means the shock will be slightly stiffer initially for the same amount of travel than without lowering. On most bikes this should barely be noticeable. Lowering the front affects the air spring slightly (towards the end of the travel). Remember: it is important to lower the front and rear the same amount. I may have extra triple clamps.
@robinsongguitars Hi! I have lowered my XR also. Got a tri-link kit from Power-Barn as I am only 5.8 and it make the bike a bit challenging when riding tight forrest trails. Works great. Lowered the front same amount. Still need to test more. New metzeler 6mm dubbed tyres for winter riding. Not enough snow and ice yet though. Yes, I could be interested in your triple clamps if you have one laying around 😀 Pm? Cheers, Erik.
So cool to add the kick starter!
From what I can see it looks like thats a right sharp pig!
What a cracker .. nice vid man and hello from the uk 🇬🇧
Wow, very impressive work and great mods.
Then there is the rest of us, mere mortals! LoL Thanks, Jim!
I didn't understand a damn word lol
I have no issues.
In order to do this successfully you need to have some machinist skills to accurately measure, machine and heat treat the parts. Due to manufacturing tolerances it would be next to impossible to mass produce these as a kit to sell. Wish I could. People have asked about the Superpinion sprocket. They seem like they will help slow down spline wear. What I don't like about them is they are very pricey and can't be run inside out. The attachment of the sprocket is definitely the weak point on the "L".
I have no fucking idea how to install that properly even after watching
Have you looked into the kk bike sprocket from Italy?
These sprockets seem to be good, although pricey. The only downside I can see is they are not reversible on the splines.
Sounds fair enough to me dude 😎🇺🇸✌🏽
Can you make me a kit? I'll pay! I just have no way of crafting things out of titanium. Or what size the lock rings are etc...
It's been 8 months since your last vlog looking forward to more great vlogs.. any mods you don't recommend for XR650L?
Haven't found any mod I wouldn't do on the "L". The two best are the 2nd+5th gear mod and the lithium battery relocate under the seat. The stock suspension on these is pretty bad for any serious off road riding. The stock bend-o-matic bars are way too low.
You are one of the GOLDEN few who actually bothered to do a proper kickstart install. Others are reduced to cannibalising dommies (NX650)! Respect. Why don't they do this in the factory and slap a bigger tank on it while they are about it.
You could sell this as a kit... Id buy one.
“They’re incandescent so they’re really bright” what?!?
King shit 💪
Why doesn't Honda address these problems?
Good question. People keep buying the bikes. Most, if not all bikes have some bugaboos that never seem to get fixed. Some of the older Euro bikes were famous for putting out the same half-baked designs for years.
I've watched this video about 10 times now and gathered much of the information I need to carry on with my own project.. I have a couple of questions about your application. How do you seal the clearance gap between the KTM spacer and the countershaft to prevent oily from leaking between the two and and leaving the engine at the joint between your manufactured ring and or the sprocket. I believe KYM uses an O-ring in a recess to stop that migration. My solution is to make a sprocket with an extended shoulder that engages the entire spline and whatever is left over to the countershaft bearing will be filled with a spacer made from 8620 steel and ground to fit. The locking plate will also be made to fill the entire width of the locking ring gap. before bolting it to the sprocket. My installation is on a DR650 which has a slightly different countershaft however and eliminates the small ring spacer you had to manufacture. ....I too have these skills. I liked your approach to using a snap ring on the end of the countershaft. I also have an XVR750 Africa twin on which I will be using a similar approach. great ideas eh? Great minds think alike / fools seldom differ.
I like the Fritzco sprockets as they are reversible when the teeth start to hook and have full width spline engagement. This is definitely the weak spot on these bikes. It is important to keep a good moly grease (CV Joint grease or similar) on the splines to keep moisture and dirt out. When the splines dry wear ramps up quickly. I use a split collar (SAE 4340 HT to 48-52 Rc) that fits snugly inside the wide groove where the OEM lock plate rests. This is held in place with a pretty stout snap ring. I carefully measured my lock plate groove and machined the split collar to fit with a thousandth or two clearance. Then I split it with a .014 slitting saw before HT. The gap on the snap ring at 90 degrees to the gap in the collar. This is actually what holds the sprocket on. The cover I use acts as a Belleville washer with a little preload to keep the sprocket from trying to rock on the splines. The cover also helps keep the moly grease in the splines and keeps out dirt and water. The standard KTM spacer uses a thin wall o-ring to seal the countershaft from the collar/spacer. These fit into a little counterbore on the end of the collar that is inserted onto the countershaft. You can actually buy these at your local hardware store as they are a standard size. Forgot what the number is. Pretty EZ to figure out. I have close to 10,000 miles on this setup and the splines still look new with no rocking of the sprocket. If, and when the KTM collar wears I will simply machine another the correct length.
I was there, the very first race I ever attended. Hooked me and On Any Sunday reeled me in!
This is the bain of everyone who has owned and serviced their motorcycle for years. Very good idea from a problem solver. Don't know why Honda would do this along with many other manufacturers. It would take very little to machine the sprocket to fit onto the countershaft splines properly in the first place. No other industry mounts drive sprockets so they float on their splines the way Motorcycle manufacturers do.
Yes, a pretty cheesy design form Honda in an effort to keep the manufacturing costs down. Another bugaboo is the big gap between 1st and 2nd gear. These big singles put out a tremendous amount of torque, which takes its toll on these splines. With dry splines open to the environment rapid wear is what happens. This is an EZ fix for Honda as they have a better suited 2nd drive gear in their NX650 bike. Honda could also put the 5th driven gear off the non-USA FMX650 to act as an overdrive. 5th gear is a little too close to 4th as is. This is the kind of engineering you expect from many Euro bikes.
Results top 10 Kring, johnson, Bailey, Roberton, Bickers, Hart, ArneBonn, Hallman, Aberg, Stodulka, west
Sorry for the misleading info. I tip my hat to you for coming in third. Thanks for the correction of the finish. How is David doing these days? He was unstoppable on the mighty CR500 in the Motocross des Nations in '86 with Rick Johnson and Johnny O'Mara. Sad that Dave Bickers and Tim Hart passed away a while back and more recently Andre Malherbe.
Wonderful old video
Yeah that's it, block airflow to the head. Oil cooler works. Head runs hotter. 🤨🤔
No air blockage to the head or cylinder. The oil cooler fins allow great air flow and don't block any fins or air flow. The scoop on the front of the cooler has a venturi effect and actually speeds up air flow through the cooler and past the engine fins. Overall, it is a clean job and wouldn't run this bike without it. The OEM front fender blocks most of the air to the cylinder and head. That is the real heat culprit. Want a cooler running XRL, put a vented front fender on...