Great work there, I have started printing the R2D2 v3, I am confident with all the printing and assembly that's required but the Arduino set up is going to be a challenge with my Zero experience lol.
@TheEebel25 күн бұрын
Don’t worry, there is a lot of information on Arduino programming available.
@wrxsubaru02Ай бұрын
How does it do now? still the same or has there been updates that make it even faster? I keep searching for machine speed test and speed benchy but cant find any that show it moving really fast.
@TheEebelАй бұрын
I’ll test v6 firmware and report back.
@LittleHistory7059Ай бұрын
WOOOOAOOAOAOAOAOAOAOAOAOAO
@TrollandErrorАй бұрын
If he detects the Dark Side, who's he gonna call?
@TheEebelАй бұрын
SithBusters!
@user-df2yg5pv1oАй бұрын
Take all my money.
@GunnerAl9Ай бұрын
Thank you for sharing this. I was hoping you would have demonstrated the difference in movement between the normal R2D2 Droid Movement and the tank movement. Not 100% sure of what the difference is and how it appearance on the droid. I'm new to the droid channel mixing and I have my R2 set up for movement so I'm apprehensive to try and re-program to tank mode.
@TheEebelАй бұрын
Tank mode is just the nomenclature of this style of mixing. It’s also called arcade style. If your R2 is driving fine, there is no need to change anything. This video was made to get someone new to RC to a drivable state. I searched all of the internet trying to figure out how to do a mix like this for my first RC droid and there was not a video for it. This video, hopefully, fills that gap.
@TrollandErrorАй бұрын
It's not about a difference in the droid's movement so much as a difference in how you get those movements from the radio. Tank mixing lets you combine the horizontal and vertical axes of a single gimbal in such a way that it can control both of the tracks (or wheels) freeing up the second stick for other purposes. This way, left/right on that stick rotates/steers the droid, and up/down moves it forward and reverse. The alternative control scheme is typically to use the vertical axis of the left stick to control the left track, and the vertical axis of the right stick for the right-hand track. With this method, you've simply moved the tank mixing off of the radio and into your brain. The main (only?) advantage of this second control scheme is that it's a bit more straightforward to implement ... each stick controls one motor directly. The downside is that separating the droid's movement inputs from each other like that can be sub-optimal, especially when your droid has other multi-axis inputs that should logically be grouped together and/or suggest use of a gimbal's vertical axis. For example, consider the droid in my profile pic, LD-F1. In addition to the tank drive, he can both nod his head front-back and tilt it left-right (he can also look to either side, but I use a potentiometer for that). Intuition suggests using a vertical axis for nodding and a horizontal axis for tilting, ideally on the same stick. I can easily do that with the gimbal left free by in-radio tank mixing. On the second control scheme, I'd be forced to not only split LD-F1's locomotion onto two different sticks, I'd also have to split his head motion as well, and I'd have to control the front-back nodding motion by moving one of those stick left-right. It doesn't make sense from a puppeteering standpoint. It can also be weird to control. Say I'm turning him, driving the right track forward by moving the right stick up ... but I accidentally nudge the stick a bit to one side. Suddenly, his head is also either tilting or nodding, depending which stick I mapped those to. Putting a bit of deadband on the sticks (so slight deflections away from the center of each axis won't trigger that axis to move) can mitigate that, but it's best to avoid the issue altogether by grouping related functions on one stick.
@GunnerAl9Ай бұрын
@@TrollandError Excellent explanation. I cut and pasted your explanation into my "Notebook" for programming for future reference. Thanks again. Easily understood what you provided.
@TrollandErrorАй бұрын
@@GunnerAl9 I should also note that some control systems don't necessarily even have two sticks to use with that second control setup. SHADOW, for example, can be used to drive a droid with only one single-stick PS3 Nav controller (you can also use two of them though). Tank mixing would be required for this setup, and would have to be programmed into the code running on the Arduino or whatever. When I did my first build (Artie Deco from Hardware Wars), SHADOW didn't have built-in tank mixing. It relied on the Sabertooth motor controllers to do the tank mixing for you. Since Artie uses regular R/C speed controllers that don't do that, I ended up having to code the tank mixing formula into it myself.
@HoboJardАй бұрын
Thanks Tim for the video, this really helps those who have to look up multiple videos.
@YoutubeHandleHaterАй бұрын
This is one of the coolest R2 model I've ever seen!!
@TheEebelАй бұрын
Thanks!
@SLAVKINGREDАй бұрын
what's he made with?
@TheEebelАй бұрын
He is made with PETG
@SLAVKINGREDАй бұрын
@@TheEebel Noice, what control system is he equipped with,
@TheEebelАй бұрын
@@SLAVKINGRED He is using Kyber Control
@SLAVKINGREDАй бұрын
@@TheEebel i see,
@SLAVKINGREDАй бұрын
this is awesome
@Fenyareal2 ай бұрын
👍👏
@danielwoolston2 ай бұрын
that's really cool
@Fenyareal2 ай бұрын
Баza
@Highly-grounded2 ай бұрын
That’s cool but can he fly?
@spimanflo2 ай бұрын
Can I buy one These are so cool
@clone_genius_992 ай бұрын
Who made chopper?
@francoisboutet23022 ай бұрын
Impressive
@GunnerAl92 ай бұрын
You lost me when you were programming the sequence to the button and you said it was sequence #5, but didn't explain why it was sequence #5. I'm not fully understanding the sequence count and where they are stored. You named the sequence gripper tool something, but on the screen I never saw anything that related it to the 5th sequence. Can you please explain? the video was awesome, I learned a lot as I'm about to program my dome panels in Kyber.
@TheEebel2 ай бұрын
When you write a sequence the Pololu program gives it a number. If using Kyber, you have to have an extra sequence at the beginning that will not get called(sequence #0). Look at the sequence script and you will see the sequence listed in numerical order. That is where you know which sequence is which.
@TrollandError2 ай бұрын
I'll probably do something like this on a couple of the droids on my list. Seems simpler than a full-fledged stewart platform that I've considered, especially if you don't need translation in the other axes.
@JamesR5D42 ай бұрын
That is so cool 😎
@stevehyt2 ай бұрын
Are you doing the animations with the Maestro?
@michaelrouse71863 ай бұрын
Nice video, Thank you.
@brodsfeet81543 ай бұрын
Sir, may i know how much is that thing??i mean R2D2 Robot???TNx for your reply
@brodsfeet81543 ай бұрын
pro build sir
@therealtiamat4 ай бұрын
I am about half way thru, this video is so motivating to keep up the progress till the wonderful final assembly result!!!
@schwarzerritter44514 ай бұрын
Good video
@paigemueller28764 ай бұрын
Your build looks awesome! I'm building my chopper now. Do you mind sharing the names of the paint you used for Choppers Base colors?
Thank you so much! Ill be sure to share pics once its done, still a long way to go. :) @@TheEebel
@TheEebel4 ай бұрын
It’s an FrSky X-20S. I’m running a LUA script called KyberPad.
@matthewborth39554 ай бұрын
Thank you so much for this video!! I just purchased this controller and am adding Kyber to B2emo. With little experience with radio controllers this gave me a great starting point to start setting things up!
@Dno_854 ай бұрын
Is this a FrSky Tandem X18SE Transmitter?
@jasonnix14234 ай бұрын
Where can I get one like this I've been wanting an R2D2 for years Anybody tell me where I could find one?
@TheEebel4 ай бұрын
Astromech.net is the on ramp for droid building. There are lots of ways to do it depending on your skill and budget. If you want to buy one, Disney sells them for $25K. They are substantially less costly to build. I have a video on this subject. kzread.info/dash/bejne/fZyhsdR9dsSZgs4.htmlsi=IaJkJPBzdAGuiMRZ
@iurycs4 ай бұрын
Hello! Would it be possible to share the arm base STP file for the two servo 82MG ? Due to taxes, it is prohibitive for me to buy them. Buyt i got some pretty cheaper, but i didn't see that the axis is not at the same position, so, i couldn't install them. If is not possible, do you have the parameters for the gears? I think if i use a smaller diameter it will work. I know that the movement will be restricted, but it is still a possibility. Thanks!
@TheEebel4 ай бұрын
Hit me up on Facebook and I’ll see what I can do. facebook.com/groups/timhebelsdroidfactory/
@pbjam21824 ай бұрын
Combine this with moder drone tech and youve got yourself a flying nightmare. Actually, the military should fully fund it. Imagine being a terrorist and 5 of these show up on the battlefield. Terrifying
@cperezotero5 ай бұрын
What run time are you getting with this setup?
@TheEebel4 ай бұрын
I usually run about ten hours a day at conventions. He is usually round 50% charged at the end of the day.
@stevenjones23715 ай бұрын
awesome work im working on R2 and a pit droid at the moment
@Autisticguywithacamera5 ай бұрын
Great work, Chopper is so cute!
@cperezotero5 ай бұрын
I'm in my R2 build at the stage where I will work on the electronics man Kyber is so tempting but $250 for the body board, plus a controller with a screen, is another $250 ... price is the only thing holding me back to from going with it and not ShadowMD
@TheEebel5 ай бұрын
I don’t sell Kyber. I stared my droid journey with SHADOW-MD. It was/is awesome! However, Bluetooth, although inexpensive has a fundamental flaw. It cannot survive today’s Bluetooth saturated conventions. My first taste of this was with my, at the time, Bluetooth R5. I was at a convention with 20,000 people crammed into a convention hall and he was uncontrollable. Just too many folks with phones.This saturated and jammed the Bluetooth frequencies. Modern Radio control transmitters are effectively immune to this problem because they use frequency hopping Yes, the is a cost to this tech and the controllers are big and visible to the audience(although if you are clever it is possible to mitigate this by standing behind the observer or use other ‘magician’ techniques. You can certainly start with Bluetooth. However, in the long run, if you find that you are passionate about this hobby/profession, RC is really the best tech.
@cperezotero5 ай бұрын
@@TheEebel very good points given the use cases
@TemporalCoder5 ай бұрын
Love the Rick Wave button! :)
@scarymuttstudio6625 ай бұрын
Awesome work!
@Susanne16645 ай бұрын
Great job bro
@bycsby5 ай бұрын
Can i have the project instruction sir?
@stevehyt5 ай бұрын
I remember this tune from DragonCon!
@Karebear90016 ай бұрын
Cool! Do I spy an Edison home phonograph in the background?
@louierobotech29796 ай бұрын
Love it! nice remote. Defenelty getting one. Thanks!
@HoboJard6 ай бұрын
Awesome work, I saw the HCR site but not seen the actual hardware.
@lqqkout82146 ай бұрын
Great demo and exciting controls! Thank you for sharing :)
Пікірлер
Thanks for the lights mount! Hotglued on?
Yes
Take my wallet Wjere do I buy it
Are those magnets for the domes
Yes
Great work there, I have started printing the R2D2 v3, I am confident with all the printing and assembly that's required but the Arduino set up is going to be a challenge with my Zero experience lol.
Don’t worry, there is a lot of information on Arduino programming available.
How does it do now? still the same or has there been updates that make it even faster? I keep searching for machine speed test and speed benchy but cant find any that show it moving really fast.
I’ll test v6 firmware and report back.
WOOOOAOOAOAOAOAOAOAOAOAOAO
If he detects the Dark Side, who's he gonna call?
SithBusters!
Take all my money.
Thank you for sharing this. I was hoping you would have demonstrated the difference in movement between the normal R2D2 Droid Movement and the tank movement. Not 100% sure of what the difference is and how it appearance on the droid. I'm new to the droid channel mixing and I have my R2 set up for movement so I'm apprehensive to try and re-program to tank mode.
Tank mode is just the nomenclature of this style of mixing. It’s also called arcade style. If your R2 is driving fine, there is no need to change anything. This video was made to get someone new to RC to a drivable state. I searched all of the internet trying to figure out how to do a mix like this for my first RC droid and there was not a video for it. This video, hopefully, fills that gap.
It's not about a difference in the droid's movement so much as a difference in how you get those movements from the radio. Tank mixing lets you combine the horizontal and vertical axes of a single gimbal in such a way that it can control both of the tracks (or wheels) freeing up the second stick for other purposes. This way, left/right on that stick rotates/steers the droid, and up/down moves it forward and reverse. The alternative control scheme is typically to use the vertical axis of the left stick to control the left track, and the vertical axis of the right stick for the right-hand track. With this method, you've simply moved the tank mixing off of the radio and into your brain. The main (only?) advantage of this second control scheme is that it's a bit more straightforward to implement ... each stick controls one motor directly. The downside is that separating the droid's movement inputs from each other like that can be sub-optimal, especially when your droid has other multi-axis inputs that should logically be grouped together and/or suggest use of a gimbal's vertical axis. For example, consider the droid in my profile pic, LD-F1. In addition to the tank drive, he can both nod his head front-back and tilt it left-right (he can also look to either side, but I use a potentiometer for that). Intuition suggests using a vertical axis for nodding and a horizontal axis for tilting, ideally on the same stick. I can easily do that with the gimbal left free by in-radio tank mixing. On the second control scheme, I'd be forced to not only split LD-F1's locomotion onto two different sticks, I'd also have to split his head motion as well, and I'd have to control the front-back nodding motion by moving one of those stick left-right. It doesn't make sense from a puppeteering standpoint. It can also be weird to control. Say I'm turning him, driving the right track forward by moving the right stick up ... but I accidentally nudge the stick a bit to one side. Suddenly, his head is also either tilting or nodding, depending which stick I mapped those to. Putting a bit of deadband on the sticks (so slight deflections away from the center of each axis won't trigger that axis to move) can mitigate that, but it's best to avoid the issue altogether by grouping related functions on one stick.
@@TrollandError Excellent explanation. I cut and pasted your explanation into my "Notebook" for programming for future reference. Thanks again. Easily understood what you provided.
@@GunnerAl9 I should also note that some control systems don't necessarily even have two sticks to use with that second control setup. SHADOW, for example, can be used to drive a droid with only one single-stick PS3 Nav controller (you can also use two of them though). Tank mixing would be required for this setup, and would have to be programmed into the code running on the Arduino or whatever. When I did my first build (Artie Deco from Hardware Wars), SHADOW didn't have built-in tank mixing. It relied on the Sabertooth motor controllers to do the tank mixing for you. Since Artie uses regular R/C speed controllers that don't do that, I ended up having to code the tank mixing formula into it myself.
Thanks Tim for the video, this really helps those who have to look up multiple videos.
This is one of the coolest R2 model I've ever seen!!
Thanks!
what's he made with?
He is made with PETG
@@TheEebel Noice, what control system is he equipped with,
@@SLAVKINGRED He is using Kyber Control
@@TheEebel i see,
this is awesome
👍👏
that's really cool
Баza
That’s cool but can he fly?
Can I buy one These are so cool
Who made chopper?
Impressive
You lost me when you were programming the sequence to the button and you said it was sequence #5, but didn't explain why it was sequence #5. I'm not fully understanding the sequence count and where they are stored. You named the sequence gripper tool something, but on the screen I never saw anything that related it to the 5th sequence. Can you please explain? the video was awesome, I learned a lot as I'm about to program my dome panels in Kyber.
When you write a sequence the Pololu program gives it a number. If using Kyber, you have to have an extra sequence at the beginning that will not get called(sequence #0). Look at the sequence script and you will see the sequence listed in numerical order. That is where you know which sequence is which.
I'll probably do something like this on a couple of the droids on my list. Seems simpler than a full-fledged stewart platform that I've considered, especially if you don't need translation in the other axes.
That is so cool 😎
Are you doing the animations with the Maestro?
Nice video, Thank you.
Sir, may i know how much is that thing??i mean R2D2 Robot???TNx for your reply
pro build sir
I am about half way thru, this video is so motivating to keep up the progress till the wonderful final assembly result!!!
Good video
Your build looks awesome! I'm building my chopper now. Do you mind sharing the names of the paint you used for Choppers Base colors?
facebook.com/groups/timhebelsdroidfactory/permalink/754526082917458/
Thank you so much! Ill be sure to share pics once its done, still a long way to go. :) @@TheEebel
It’s an FrSky X-20S. I’m running a LUA script called KyberPad.
Thank you so much for this video!! I just purchased this controller and am adding Kyber to B2emo. With little experience with radio controllers this gave me a great starting point to start setting things up!
Is this a FrSky Tandem X18SE Transmitter?
Where can I get one like this I've been wanting an R2D2 for years Anybody tell me where I could find one?
Astromech.net is the on ramp for droid building. There are lots of ways to do it depending on your skill and budget. If you want to buy one, Disney sells them for $25K. They are substantially less costly to build. I have a video on this subject. kzread.info/dash/bejne/fZyhsdR9dsSZgs4.htmlsi=IaJkJPBzdAGuiMRZ
Hello! Would it be possible to share the arm base STP file for the two servo 82MG ? Due to taxes, it is prohibitive for me to buy them. Buyt i got some pretty cheaper, but i didn't see that the axis is not at the same position, so, i couldn't install them. If is not possible, do you have the parameters for the gears? I think if i use a smaller diameter it will work. I know that the movement will be restricted, but it is still a possibility. Thanks!
Hit me up on Facebook and I’ll see what I can do. facebook.com/groups/timhebelsdroidfactory/
Combine this with moder drone tech and youve got yourself a flying nightmare. Actually, the military should fully fund it. Imagine being a terrorist and 5 of these show up on the battlefield. Terrifying
What run time are you getting with this setup?
I usually run about ten hours a day at conventions. He is usually round 50% charged at the end of the day.
awesome work im working on R2 and a pit droid at the moment
Great work, Chopper is so cute!
I'm in my R2 build at the stage where I will work on the electronics man Kyber is so tempting but $250 for the body board, plus a controller with a screen, is another $250 ... price is the only thing holding me back to from going with it and not ShadowMD
I don’t sell Kyber. I stared my droid journey with SHADOW-MD. It was/is awesome! However, Bluetooth, although inexpensive has a fundamental flaw. It cannot survive today’s Bluetooth saturated conventions. My first taste of this was with my, at the time, Bluetooth R5. I was at a convention with 20,000 people crammed into a convention hall and he was uncontrollable. Just too many folks with phones.This saturated and jammed the Bluetooth frequencies. Modern Radio control transmitters are effectively immune to this problem because they use frequency hopping Yes, the is a cost to this tech and the controllers are big and visible to the audience(although if you are clever it is possible to mitigate this by standing behind the observer or use other ‘magician’ techniques. You can certainly start with Bluetooth. However, in the long run, if you find that you are passionate about this hobby/profession, RC is really the best tech.
@@TheEebel very good points given the use cases
Love the Rick Wave button! :)
Awesome work!
Great job bro
Can i have the project instruction sir?
I remember this tune from DragonCon!
Cool! Do I spy an Edison home phonograph in the background?
Love it! nice remote. Defenelty getting one. Thanks!
Awesome work, I saw the HCR site but not seen the actual hardware.
Great demo and exciting controls! Thank you for sharing :)
Love it! Can't wait to discuss in person.
Good work Tim !