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have you still got the stl file for that port you made?
dimensions ???
Nice rig.
Thanks. It was a fun little project that started from a bad online sale. Gen2 of this chassis is in the works.
@@Hardwareasylum I look forward to it. I haven't messed with computers for 25 years. id like to build a DX4-100 sometime. but right now I'm playing with some 300a cpu's on a slot 1 board.
I want to say: give it a wash and recap it. Great job to do. Greetings from Steven from the Netherlands
Thanks. that is the plan.
Very similar to the KX-P 1082 I unearthed last week. Even the yellowing. Was forgotten for at least 20 years but worked first try! 🤩
I'm pretty sure that is the same printer just for a different region. What concerned me the most about this repair was finding a new drive belt had it decided to break. Twould seem they choose correctly during the initial design.
My pet peeve with the board recyclers is the fact that many times on Ebay they do not include the I/O shield with the motherboard............why............why...........why not???
To be fair, the I/O shield is part of the case, not the board, it offers nothing in terms of recycled value and more often than not, the person selling the board on eBay (or whatever) combed through a pile of scrap looking for meth money and by then most everything of value had been removed. To be doubly fair, I have seen my fair share of builders forget the I/O shield when building new machines AND, baby AT motherboards had no I/O so there was no need for an I/O shield. Now, to completely shove the knife in and give it a nice twist. WE (everyone who used these products, and the scammers looking to reclaim lost metals) are at fault for the current state of affairs. The only reason we can even find this stuff is because there are people out there too lazy to throw stuff away. In a way we should be so lucky to find bits of obsolete history only to complain about the condition it was found. Of course, the purpose of this video was to bring up an annoyance and how I ended up solving the problem. It doesn't change the fact that it was annoying and that eventually the spare parts will dry up making Slot style systems completely unusable.
What is dimension of this box,
I believe it was around 1.5 sqft
Great video!, what is that bottom left hole in the front of the case for?
The hole you can see in the bottom right of the computer case is for a Keyboard DIN connection. There is a female plug that mounts there and runs a cable back to the keyboard din on the motherboard.
wow, lovely, this early slot one mainboard collection, I really enjoy seeing those - its right from the beginning from at to atx, and the whole layout speaks a lot more socket 5/7 than later slot 1 boards. its awesome! here in europe, as far as i know, its hard to come by these - most of my slot 1 boards already have the usual atx shape and layout. ty for the video, gosh, i really love this time period, good memories. a lot people really seem to be stuck in the late 1990s - and i think thats a good thing!
Thanks for watching!! I would have to agree, the 90's was a great time for computer hardware. Companies started to experiment with different configurations and the platform matured as a whole. I do have a socket 370 in Baby AT that I'll be doing a video on shortly, it was basically a board they produced to be backwards compatible, likely for and industrial application.
Qual é o nome dos componentes que formam o kit de refrigeração do water cooler? cada parte
To be honest I've been quite happy with tunings in the upper 30s unless I need to recreate those subwoofer testing songs. It can sound "powerful" just from the improved sensitivity. In that configuration of box you could probably fit a gentle port curve, up and around the back. Sharp bends in ports reduce their efficiency. Or you could use passive radiators.
Agreed, I had intended to do a folded port but, discovered it would be this long snake that was only a quarter of an inch tall. Would have been neat to see but ugly IMO. The box sounds amazing and looks pretty good too though I'll be diving into a new revision later this year. I'm thinking either a single driver or something of a bandpass variety. The intention will be that custom desktop monitors will pick up the slack and be the primary sound source. I figure I can then work on making the sub loud over smooth and equal.
Looks like EDO SIMM modules. I had Pentium 133 with 32Mb EDO RAM, Diamond 3D card running 800 x 600, ergonomic keyboard. Used to think that Pentium Pro makes game faster / more beautiful (^_^)
Correct EDO SIMM modules, I had always wanted one but I never learned about them until after I was already on P2, which was already better in every aspect. One of my first retro pc videos was a Pentium Pro 200 + Voodoo2 SLI build. The system was stupid fast and yet still painful to use.
MemoryMasters - Great stuff. I have 2x16MB of their FP modules in my 5x86-133 system.
Agreed, I believe they are just reclaimed memory but, I like how I was able to get matching sets at any speed I want.
For some reason i always assumed computer components was used at least 1 maybe 2 times. No matter how asmr the board smells
Awww, you noticed.
Interesting video!! 👍👍👍
Glad you liked it. been trying some alternative intro sequences to see what sticks.
Really cool
current electric output will not be able to support these massive data/ AI centers. NV is a bubble. Copper is also going to turn into an issue as theirs not alot of investment so expect a price increase as these data centers get built. Investments into energy are low also. All these AI/ Data centers services need a ton of energy . When energy prices go up the AI, digital coins etc will see a loss. Tech needs <mining supply <energy supply. If energy supply doesn't increase you wont get the mining increase to build and without cheap energy you wont have these massive data / AI centers.
! Great Video. The First sub with the Plate amp looked the best in my opinion. However I had the same problem Listening to those "Tinny" front computer speakers so I made a DIY Solution with some 6*9 speakers I already had and one of those Booster/Equalizers with the Spectrum analyzer display from the 80's. I'm just Using the Two Channels but it Sounds So Great. Not as low as the Subs but for a set of computer Speakers those coaxial 6*9's rock and especially sounds WAY better than the small Logitec style speakers. Perhaps you Might Consider the 6*9's or Similar instead of the circular "Bookshelf" Design for your build. Also 6*9's can be had for Cheap compared to buying Speakers online and Shipping etc.
Thanks for watching and the comments. The first box was nice but, largely unfinished and there are aspects of the current box that didn't turn out how I had expected. Never know, I may do a "done done" version of this box and ditch the 3d Printed port. As for the desktop speakers. I'm not sure I will go with a 6x9, I honestly never liked those back in my car audio days, mostly since every 6x9 was a coaxial and couldn't be tuned. However, in this instance they will simply be too big for my desktop. My initial thoughts were to keep things compact but expand the dynamic range over what you would normally get. so something like a 4"-5" Mid-bass coupled with a tweeter then focus on mid-range + tweeter or full-range on the center channel. The jury is still out on a final decision and I'll be sure to do a video introduction when it comes time.
It was mentioned that adding "indicators" to the charts would help. So, I have uploaded a new version calling out the points I mention in the video.
An Isobarak speaker has no ports...it is 2 speakers ,1 mounted on baffle the other mounted a calculated distance behind the baffle drive unit with a sealed volume of air between both forward facing drive units, one behind the other...can not port an Isobarak...an Isobarak speaker has another identical speaker facing forward behind the baffle mounted bass driver, trapped sealed air between the 2 drive units...look up Isobarak...this is just ported or reflex ported not Isobarak, Linn made Isobarak speakers,very expensive, real Isobarak speakers, gives deeper ,faster ,less distorted bass response.. If done properly like Linn the bass is unbeleivably extended,fast & less distortion than a single non Isobarak ported bass cabinet....
Thanks for your comment and watching the ENTIRE video. :) Isobaric loading describes how the speakers a coupled, They can be front to back, back to back, front to front and back to front. The only thing that distinguishes them is the sealed air chamber between them. Beyond this they can be vented, and many often are. Porting vs Sealed is determined by the speaker parameters, some work best in a ported enclosure, others, like the Linn speakers you mentioned prefer a sealed enclosure. I believe what you are getting confused is a brand name from Linn "Isobarak" VS. an actual speaker loading design. Here is another video from a channel that has been doing rather well in the speaker realm to explain. kzread.info/dash/bejne/dJh6mdCNhcK3f7Q.html
@@Hardwareasylum ....yes isobarak is a bass loading system, Linn called it the "Linn Isobarak" speaker which is what most people think of when the word isobarak is mentioned...we call that 'Clam Shell' in the UK...not strictly what the hi-fi world means when they talk about Isobarak..though it has been done... technically your right it is isobarak, the coupling of 2 bass units with trapped air between them...some bass players use clam shell loaded sub bass cabs, yes they are a ported Isobarak style & produce a lot of low end subsonic bass under 20hz..a bit to much but they are fast for the size of 2 x15" bass drive units....if you want the most musical sounding Isobarak bass my experience tells me the both firing forward, one on the baffle & one a calculated distance directly behind, sounds fantastic if done right...i used to design speakers but never got round to Isobarak loading as you need 4 high quality drive units with the right Thielle Small parameters & very little written back then about isobarak bass loading, no internet...yes i have seen ported clam shell isobarak speakers... imo transmission line subs are superior, fantastic just like transmission line speakers, PMC etc... the transmission line produces an amazingingly clean deep bass with a lot less distortion but can't go as low as an isobarak bass loading system ...if i could afford everything i would design a stand mount sized tranmission line 2-way speaker with a transmission line sub in a seperate enclosure underneath, if it's purely bass amount isobarak clam shell is the way to go... for hifi quality tranmission line loaded is my preferred option, depends on what your trying to acheive ,but hard to buy the right bass units...good luck
Bro out here 3D printing in 2024, still hsing a PC from 1993 with a floppy drive
I also have a '92 ZX7 and MV Agusta SPR but, whatever.
3:22 not sure if I can "see corsair ddr memory", but I can clearly see some bulging capacitors. That board cries for a re-cap!
You know, you are right, I'm certain you can see the logo, and I just assume that everyone knows that the KT266A chipset requires DDR memory. I mean, seriously, Corsair only released silver heatspreaders like this on their DDR line so, to me, it seems obvious. However, I will concede that I'm never quite sure how much hand holding I need to do with my audience while I try to strike a balance between my less than enthusiastic delivery of "amazing" content and the education value of my videos. Apologizes for my oversight, I will attempt to do better during the "recap" video. :)
I was a customer of Microscience back in the late 80s. The HH1060 was a fast drive for the day, I still have one or two of them. I got to know some of the guys at Microscience and they great. RIP Barry Waxman.
I always wanted to do an article on the company and see if I could interview some of the original members. The company did quite a bit to advance hard drive technology, at least from what I have seen, and they were one of the few not to be consumed by larger brands. On a related note, I'm working on a new 286 build and plan to revive another Microscience drive for the project.
@@Hardwareasylum Interviewing the old school drive guys would be really interesting. I always thought Microscience made a good drive and no idea why they went under. I think it maybe they didn't make the jump into 3.5 drives? It seems the guy you want to talk with is Peter Kevin Nagle, the CEO of Microscience (linkedin). I'd get to them soon because unfortunately folks of that era are dropping off. 😞 Happy to help if you need.
how many layers are there's between ineer and outer tank sir ?
I didn't bother counting, it is quite a few, enough to fill the gap but not enough to not fill the gap.
Looks as good as new - good job
Thanks!, Overall it turned out better than expected and I think will be stronger than factory. What I didn't include in the video is that the bezel is "off" a bit on the side that is broken. So when you try to install the cover there is a pinch point and I suspect that is what created the breaks. Not much I can do to resolve that issue short of trying to reshape the plastic with a heat gun, which can backfire quite easily. Thanks for watching!
I have used for a short while 75DRV4 in my retrobox (with Voodoo 3 2000) and was pretty happy with it. Caps on mine were in good shape. After a short time I've replaced it with MSI KT2 Combo based on KT266A too, but with P4 +12 V connector (better suited for newer PSUs) and USB 2.0. I think that I have 75DRV5 lying somewhere. I'm also looking for 75KAV (rev F1 or later), which I had in 2001. It was a nice board with KT133A chipset and ISA slot. One of first Soltek motherboards that received Red Storm Overclocking with BIOS upgrade. A good base for building Win 98 / late DOS machine.
very nice! I acquired a Voodoo 5 and Voodoo 3 in a box of parts that I am hoping to get running again. the V5 had some artifacts which I suspected was driver though could be memory, difficult to know at this point. I'm not sure if I have a KT133 board anymore, I'd have to look.
Ahh, Soltek. Still got one of their BEST mainboards out there running - the SL-75FRN2-RL "Golden Flame". Paired with 2x ADATA Vitesta DDR500 512MB and a PQI Turbo 512MB to activate dualchannel😎 As for cooling - modified Spire Falconrock II w/ red Titan LED fan. CPU under it is a mobile Athlon XP-M 2600+ @ 2.13GHz. Currently running a Radeon 9600 Pro on it but I got a sweet Geforce 7800GS AGP for it in transit.
Same, I had two of them, the regular golden and the version of onboard video but, I sold that one off years ago, never to be seen again. As memory serves, you only need two sticks to enable dual channel and adding a third would kick it back to single channel, or was just super super slow. Either way, not a bad build. I'll be revisiting that board and others in the coming months and may even pull out the Vitesta DDR and 9600 pro just to be "that guy"
@@Hardwareasylum Not really sure but whenever I boot it, there's a notice saying "Dual Channel Activated, 200MHz" right after the memory count, that being with the above mentioned config. It'll do dual channel regardless if the black DIMM slot is populated apparently - removed the PQI stick and it still said Dual Channel Activated. If you want to do the same, I would advise going with a 9700 Pro instead of 9600. I nearly pulled my hair out until I found Catalyst 6.2 (and its subsequent modded Omega driver) to work crash-free on nForce 2 chipsets in general. (mind you, I had 9600 crash across 4 different boards - Epox 8RDA6 Plus, ABIT NF7 v2.0, MSI K7N2 Delta-ILSR, and recently the SL-75FRN2-RL) 9700 runs right out of the box - you might even be able to squeeze some more out of those with the Omega drivers, since I noticed the Omega drivers kinda specifically target 9500/9700 GPUs. I'm currently awaiting a Geforce 7800GS AGP to see how will it fare against a 9700 Pro. I've done more silly stuff than that (P4 Northwood HT 2.8GHz paired... with a HD4870 PCI-E. Thank Asrock's crazy azz P4Dual-915GL mobo for achieveing that feat 🤣) so I suppose a 7800GS on an Athlon XP isn't too out of the ordinary lol Oh and I almost forgot - aside from the mobo and GPU recap, do an PSU recap as well. Those Enermax units are getting less and less common... and they aren't bad at all. Just watch out for conductive glue and bad caps in them, and you should be golden. I'm thinking of picking one Enermax as well to have a beefier "retro" PSU for those Socket A mobos - my 350W Seasonic SS-351FS ain't really young anymore, and my other unit, a Chieftec GPS-450AB-101, is quite overkill for the job. (ahh Delta, you crazy mfs, building a total bricc unit of a PSU 😂)
To know for sure about the memory, you'd have to run a memory benchmark, it is a night and day difference. Since "dual channel" was hardware based the notification will activate when those slots are populated, despite what the chipset does internally. As for the graphics card, I'm sure I have a 9600 laying around, if not I'll go with something NVIDIA based. The point of the "vault" videos is to use what I have, not buy new stuff that I'd never use. :) Thanks for the info, I'll look into the driver support when it comes time. I haven't looked at the 75FRN in years so, it might need a recap before it is fired up.
Soltek suffered from bad caps,but once they’re changed you’re good to go..
That is what I figured, considering the board works already there shouldn't be any surprises.
Nice,I just build a similar baby At with a Pentium 3 Socket 1 recently,love the mini form factor and the MHz displays and Turbo buttons are my favorite on these 😊 great video.
Thanks, the repairs have been coming along better than expected WITH some new surprises.
I like Soltek Boards... And Abit, iWill and Epox... Those were the days... Would love to own that... I currently dont have any KT266 board working correctly... Have a bunch of nForce 2, and a couple of KT133...
I used Epox on a couple of occasions, wasn't all that impressed. Abit had always been a diamond in the rough when it came to performance tuning. However, many of those pale when compared to Soyo, the marketing behind that company created some iconic designs that are still highly sought after to this day. DFI boards were also amazing but only after the designers came over from Abit.
@@Hardwareasylum Never bad messed with Soyo boards, except for a couple of socket 7 and 486 board... But their Dragon Ultra series were very cool boards... I have a Abit NF7-S and AN7 nForce 2 boards, and they are very good (except for the caps, but that is to be expected for the time frame)... Also have a SL-74KV+ (KT133), a White PCB Socket 478 Via board, and a purple Intel socket 478 board... All of them had to be recaped ... That Hercules GeForce card also needs caps! Nice video!
I think that you should recap and at least demo the overclocking if you feel like it.
The overclocking features would be an interesting video. If memory serves, the processor in the machine only did 146FSB stable despite it locking up at 152FSB on the video.
4500 rpm was rad
So much to digest with this comment :) I'm honestly curious to know what brand fan is on the cooler since I rarely kept with the factory options.
I am surprised that you turned it on with those caps like that. I bought two ECS motherboards off of a Tom's Hardware recommendation around this time for my and my wife Athlon XP builds. Both motherboards self-destructed, in the case of mine it killed everything that was attached to it, GPU, hard drives, PCI cards! It was the caps in both of them.
I am sorry for your loss. To be honest, I have killed a number of "retro" boards due to capacitors exploding, more often than not, the cap was perfectly fine, until it wasn't. That is part of the fun. :) Bulging caps can cause problems but in this situation they just prevented the board from booting until they got charged.
Wow bulgy caps. Great video
Thanks, The video card has them too, though I didn't show that. Just a sign of the times, and maybe being stored in a hot storage unit didn't help much.
A wash and recap would be nice. I've never seen an oldschool board with autoscan oc before. I got into pc's around 98.
Agreed, the RedStorm overclocking was rather simplistic but was a cool test you could run, even if it wasn't all that effective. Soltek, as a brand wasn't very well known however, they did have some very unique board designs along with a SFF cube called qBic.
That NCIX product sticker on the motherboard box... Oh the memories.
Ya I know right? I was working with a computer shop out of Florida who was sending me boards and stuff to review (before the actual Soltek sponsorship). Seems NCIX was where they sourced their components.
@@Hardwareasylum I live on Vancouver Island and NCIX was my go-to back in those days because cheap shipping would get orders from Vancouver to me in a day instead of waiting a week.
that graphics card is worth a bit - and thats a nice board with great Overclocking ability - definately recapp from me - cheers
a GF3 Ti200?? Maybe to the right person but, in the big picture "that" card is kinda slow. It has some bulging caps that I plan to replace but at least the fan is in good shape.
@@HardwareasylumI remember these being the more premium sought after cards though yours looks like it is missing a dvi connection, so I suppose it is a lesser model. Still, I bet its worth a hundo at least. Not bad.
@@ItIsNot1984 It is, and they are. However, from a performance standpoint, the Ti500 and regular GF3 are considerably faster (and rare). I'm fixing to replace the three caps that have expanded on this card and then do a Hercules 3D Prophet round up video. I currently have 3 cards that might make for some interesting content.
@@HardwareasylumCool. I don't remember models and all that from back then. I know that when you see things unpopulated, it usually means something better exists that does have it populated. I do remember that hercules was seen as the overclocker's card and fetched a premium though. Probably why I never had one.
@@Hardwareasylum I mean the hercules card - AGP - they are sort after
This PC build is fascinating and enjoyable to watch!
Thank you, I am glad you liked it!! Once I get the bezel fixed up I'll start on the build. it should be a good one.
o hi.. i am a bit late.. ah.. coffee.. hmm..cookie.. ah..also a nice video.. thank you.
Now *this* is a comment I can fully respect. No hidden agenda, no call outs to times gone by. Just honest speak, food and respect. Oh and thanks! I had fun building this rig and still use it from time to time.
I guess i missed the part where you tested pressure.
Holy necropost TRS!!. and yes, you missed that part.
@@Hardwareasylum where is it then?
so do you put power to the adapter card and power to the drive as normal - also same for a ssd?
Yes, it requires two power connections mostly because it is a bi-directional adapter and no power output I have some adapters that transfer the power to a SATA drive but I had issues keeping those connected to the drive.
I'm broke and playing old games. Still very cool podcast :D
Thanks for listening. I never would have figured "anyone" would listen to this show on KZread, much less leave a comment.
Why not?...
Why not what?
Вот это по нашему 😂😅
Nice work!
Thanks! it was a fun project and at least two more to come. Just waiting on parts.
1000x times easier is just use the "ext bat" port that usually is a 4 pin connector nearby and use a cell battery and stick it somewhere nearby with some velcro
You mean something like this? kzread.info/dash/bejne/iXt5spucgtipnbw.htmlsi=geoXS6qO-7J8ZeZX&t=311 It is a no brainier that an external battery is the way to go. That is the reason why motherboard makers included those headers as they knew the battery would eventually go dead and wanted to give consumers a way to continue to use their systems. The section of the video I shared shows how I converted an alarm system battery for use in a retro PC, of course simple AA batteries could work or even an external CR2032 would do the same. Either way, thanks for watching and leaving a comment. Truth be told, this was a pretty old video and something I wanted to try out. Given the chance, I would even do the mod again because I can.
Hello i have a Microscience hh-1050 with the same revision shown your video 33-307 however i do not have that wire that runs down in the ICs can you please show them so i can wire it? My drive isn't spinning up nothing is broken or shortened but i speculate it may have something to do with that wire
Microscience was a high quality manufacturer of drives at this time. Lovely example.
Need a flare on both ends
possibly, I have used "dual" flares in some of my previous designs and they didn't make much of a difference. For this project the only reason I added the flare was to dress up the exterior in preparation for the final design. I still have a few configurations I'd like to test out but, that will have to wait a few months.
I'd so want one, I'd find a way to run it on my debian Linux laptop in 2023.
That is extremely easy. you just need a wireless print server with a parallel port. OR, you could get a parallel to USB adapter.
Lookup Veronica Explains KZread. She has a great video explaining how to get Dot Matrix printers working under Linux. If you only have parallel ports, the HP Jetdirect 500x External Print Server J3265A (as she recommends) will help. I found a new old stock one on eBay for under £27. It allows up to three parallel port printers to be networked (Ethernet).