Thank you for your demonstration, there's a similar video placed by Eg4 (kzread.info/dash/bejne/oKGal7OcYLnVico.html). In my van I'm planning to install all 110V outlets GFCI, since this inverter does not have a dedicated protection ground for the 110V output, what's your suggestion on how to effectively install functional GFCI outlets stand-alone (batteries/alternator) and connected to the grid (considering that the grid had proper protection ground). PS. Can you share details on how to relocate the display panel and switches? Thanks
@asusreviewsКүн бұрын
I'm confused by why you installed it there. Isn't the property under construction currently and will be drywalled in so you can't see the lights or service it later?
@jackgoldman110 күн бұрын
thank you, just bought this set up.
@KeithDickey-e9h12 күн бұрын
could you mount the provided TV wall plate to the movable TV mount and the other provide TV plate to the TV so that you could slide off to take outside?
@SmithOffGrid6 күн бұрын
Oh, that’s a good idea! I haven’t tried it but that might actually work…
@thecannon8317 күн бұрын
Great product! Will this work for E Ride Pro SS?
@SmithOffGrid16 күн бұрын
I'd love to see if the talaria or surron brackets would fit but I haven't been able to get my hands on one locally yet to check. But I can let you know when I find out!
@bennetsmith468618 күн бұрын
Do you have the mx3 or is the sting only the mx4?
@SmithOffGrid18 күн бұрын
Yeah mine is the MX3
@Yungfoostackin29 күн бұрын
Is there a speed limiter on every single model that they sell?
@SirCapsalot727 күн бұрын
pretty much most performance ebikes, especially e-motos (which means electric motobikes) have usually brown or green wires that u cut the unlock the speed, or have a sequence of pushing buttons and pulling levers to unlock. search up a tutorial and take my advice with decent legitimacy, although i do have a bike for myself
@tannerbickley1683Ай бұрын
Will this work with a Burley bike cart?
@SmithOffGridАй бұрын
Yes, it should! I designed it to match the burley flex connector exactly. Burley is the kind of trailer I'm using
@SmithOffGridАй бұрын
But if you want to be sure, you can check the dimensions of the flex connectors from the photos on the product page and make sure it’ll fit in the shaft of your specific trailer. smithoffgrid.com/products/talaria-trailer-hitch
@jbw8471Ай бұрын
I didnt use the metal plate. It cost $100 which is ridiculous. Also installed mine inside my panel at the very bottom as thats where the only space for the 2 double 20 amp pole breakers are locbated. I cant see the SPD when i open the panel but the light shines through the spaces where the breaker is. Unfortunately i have the Fs-100 and not the 140. Is it worth switching out???
@SmithOffGrid3 күн бұрын
Yeah that $100 plate seems way expensive for what it is! I’d say any SPD is a huge step up from not having one. Comparing the FS100 and the FS140, the difference seems pretty minor. Personally I probably wouldn’t upgrade
@NicoleRodgers-vi7ibАй бұрын
This is awesome! Would love to have one!
@stapley1776Ай бұрын
That’s amazing!!! I need one now…
@sydneyfreeman7578Ай бұрын
It’s not a monster it’s a baby to me I love spiders I’ve got 30+ tarantulas 😉
@Mister_CleanАй бұрын
Looks like a wolf spider. They're pretty chill.
@sydneyfreeman7578Ай бұрын
I agree it’s just stressed out cause they put it in a container
@SmithOffGridАй бұрын
We see wolf spiders on our property pretty frequently, especially at night. I hear they're generally good to have around to get rid of garden pests. But never seen one this large before!
@sydneyfreeman7578Ай бұрын
@@SmithOffGrid ohhhh gotcha I would love to catch one did y’all put it back outside like was it in y’all’s house?
@SmithOffGridАй бұрын
Might keep it as a pet for a little bit! No it was just out in our shed, it ran by my foot when I walked in
@sydneyfreeman7578Ай бұрын
@@SmithOffGrid ohh nice 😊
@yocool4514Ай бұрын
i jus got one and what does the arrows do?
@SmithOffGridАй бұрын
The arrows set the regen level. With 4 being the highest regen and the most slowing ability when you let off the accelerator
@c216mohlАй бұрын
Hi there. To answer a question below. Yes, they should be connected as close as possible to the power source(Power Service Disconnect) coming into the panel, when possible. A thing I did was similar to what you did when I installed mine. I used a threaded 1/2" npt pipe thread to 3/4" PVC connection as well, the only difference is I cut the pipe part off so it was just like a nut on the end. I then put the threaded part through the knock out into the FS140 I have so the unit is flush against the bottom of my panel. What you did is not wrong, I just think it looks neater tight against the panel. Thanks for the video! Cheers.
@SmithOffGridАй бұрын
That's an awesome idea! Never thought of doing that. Yeah I bet it looks a lot cleaner that way. The shorter the better, that's great!
@user-nn5km9uy8wАй бұрын
А в мене 80+ їде стоковий
@warlockboyburnsАй бұрын
53 is still limited
@SmithOffGridАй бұрын
You can definitely push the bikes faster with a upgraded controller or battery but it's still a nice improvement!
@5etz3rАй бұрын
that meme of the guy running in the top right had me laughing hard man 😂 nice one
@OregonCrowАй бұрын
that's not a meme, that's a gif.
@5etz3rАй бұрын
@@OregonCrow yeah... I get it man.
@MikeStrine_RoatanStrineWay2 ай бұрын
Is this necessary to do when setting up a battery system for the home? I will have the AC input, for charging the battery in case of cloud cover. But primarily using solar to charge the battery, to power a Hybrid AC unit in the evening and on cloudy days. Thank You
@SmithOffGridАй бұрын
Well if it's wired into a home, the N/G bond should be in a panel so the bonding screw wouldn't be needed. Main reason to add it would be if you are powering loads and are frequently switching from AC input to self-powered
@Winnis-cx7zy2 ай бұрын
to unlock it does it work on talaria sting r mx4
@SmithOffGridАй бұрын
Not sure. If anyone has tried it please let us know!
@iiles12 ай бұрын
I just checked mine its oct 2022 and the screw is there already but is that a good thing ? From what I understand is if the bond is there and you plug in (shore power) then there is 2 grounds and I think they cancel each other out (I think thats why they just started leaving that screw out but the board is the same)? Why don't you design a switch for the neutral ground bond that switches off when you are plugged in and on when you are on solar power? If you designed that neutral switch I think they would take notice as when I called them about this issue they suggested I follow the steps of your video ie: theres a video that shows that hack on you tube...
@SmithOffGrid2 ай бұрын
So if the screw is there that means your unit should be able to bond and unbond automatically. The screw isn’t a permanent bond. It’s connected to a relay that does exactly what you’re suggesting, it unbonds neutral and ground when connected to grid and bonds when you’re running off solar and battery. The screw just gives the relay a connection to ground it can use. No switch is needed, it does it all internally with that relay!
@ChuckieQuinones-zs2rq2 ай бұрын
How long is the screw that you used
@user-xk5so7wb2t3 ай бұрын
Ty for the video. But. The wire gauge: 10 vs 12 is a total mute. *bc; the 10-gauge handles 600v. The 12-gauge handle 470v. It will trip the main breaker well before any wire/circuit damage occurs. So Gauge wire isn't a "plus" when comparing these 2.
@SmithOffGrid3 ай бұрын
When the device shunts power during a surge I’m more interested in the current carrying capacity than the voltage rating of the wire. Being built to handle more current can only increase device longevity and is still a win in my book. But I agree, both 10 and 12 gauge should be sufficient to do the job of tripping the main breaker.
@customerservice953 ай бұрын
Did the instructions indicate that the closer to the inlet voltage the better? Being in the bottom corner The Surge still has to pass all the other Breakers before reaching the bottom of the panel
@SmithOffGrid3 ай бұрын
I actually wondered the same thing but when reading through the instructions it didn't mention anything about that. It did specify to "use closest breaker to SPD" and "ensure leads are as short and straight as possible". Per their instructions, I'm assuming those two bits are the most important factors? But either way, with my panel I have network equipment on the upper right side and a transfer switch on the left. Plus the wires to the top breakers weren't left with hardly any slack so moving them lower into the panel would have been pretty messy with a lot of splicing. So the bottom seemed like the cleanest option for me. I'd say if you can swing putting the SPD at the top to go for that! It does seem like the most ideal location would be closest to the inlet with having it come directly out one side
@DustinDoesStuff3 ай бұрын
What is the installation method if the breaker box is recessed in the wall with drywall around it. Will the surge protector fit inside the breaker box?
@SmithOffGrid3 ай бұрын
I think it would technically fit inside, at least in mine, but it's not really designed for that. Siemens does make a flush mount kit that you can use to mount it recessed in the drywall next to your breaker panel There's also a more compact style of SPD that connects just like a breaker. That could be a good option if you have limited space. You'd just need to make sure you find one that matches the type of breaker your panel uses
@c216mohlАй бұрын
@DustinDoesStuff I am sure by now you have gotten your answer...but just incase. If your panel has enough space in it, it is perfectly fine to install it within. The only downside you have is you can not see the lights to be sure it's still working, but the PS140 also has an audible alarm too. Cheers.
@stevemelton36193 ай бұрын
FYI Thecspecvin the Siemens fs140 was only tested with the cable st 6 inches Siemens tech support told me when I asked. He explained that if any longer cable to the panel to shorten cable as much as possible. He slso said to twist the wires from the fs140 uniformly as muvh as possible before connecting to panel if I recall. I forgot exactly what he said butbif I recall, twisting the wires if using longer than 6 inches helped reduce the difference in the spec. I had the data somewhere after talking yltoma seasoned electrical engineer which showed me the Siemens spec was significantly worse in the specs if cable 36ninches versus 6 inches. Of course the Siemens manual doesn't discuss this but I sm positive via double checking with Siemens that the spec is for a 6vinch cable length only
@user-xk5so7wb2t3 ай бұрын
Yes twist wires. BC electric actually run around the diameter of the wire & NOT thru the wire. That's why the Gauge/Amp codes are in place. To small of wire to volt-amps will overheat, conduct & burn.
@Andrewxwilliam4 ай бұрын
I have this unit in an rv and when plugged into any gfci outlet, (which is most campsites) it trips the outlet after a few seconds. I installed the screw hoping it would fix that issue but it still trips. Anybody else with this unit have the same issue?
@SmithOffGridАй бұрын
If you have any neutral ground bonds downstream of a gcfi it will trip. I'm guessing you might have a neutral ground bond in your AC panel of the RV? If so you could unbond there and then if you add the screw the EG4 unit will bond automatically when you're self powering but unbond when you're plugged into shore power
@21trips4 ай бұрын
With NG screw in, will my 30A generator sense a ground fault or will it automatically unbound NG when connected and receiving a charge?
@SmithOffGrid4 ай бұрын
On mine I have the NG screw in and when I hooked it up to a generator it saw the power at the AC input and automatically un-bonded N and G
@21trips4 ай бұрын
@@SmithOffGrid Nice.
@chrislewis93454 ай бұрын
Having error code 19(no batt comm) I'm using just an ethernet cable from Walmart to connect to the batt. Do you think that's my issue? I didn't even look at the cables it came with lol! I will tho😅😅
@SmithOffGrid4 ай бұрын
Yeah you'll probably need to use the cables that came with the inverter! Communication will only work if the pinout matches exactly so I doubt other cables will work
@chrislewis93454 ай бұрын
@@SmithOffGrid yes that got the comms fixed but the main problem is I was under paneled. The least bit of shade stopped the charging. Put it in stand by mode and it will trickle charge but not in run mode. Have to add a panel lol
@jmrarickАй бұрын
It needs a minimum of 125v input to charge. It has a 500v max, so put your panels in one long series to achieve the required charging volts.@@chrislewis9345
@mikemorris59444 ай бұрын
I was told the fs140 was used on many military installs it does'nt list them because it's classified
@danieldow9385Ай бұрын
Yes, Siemens is a government and military contractor in the energy sector (and many others). So, they may not advertise military testing, but the military contracts them to provide energy services.
@rodruthel5 ай бұрын
I installed this unit in my home. I am not tied to the grid. I have power in from an outlet. I have check for the bond between ground and neutral but I get not signal meaning it’s not bonded. Do I need the bonding screw?
@SmithOffGrid5 ай бұрын
So you're supplying AC power into the unit from an outlet? Is that outlet coming from the grid? And are the neutrals and grounds from the outlet bonded?
@TKO675 ай бұрын
Thanks for that tip.
@williamirizarry11135 ай бұрын
That was my question. Thank you.
@wva50896 ай бұрын
Midnight solars SPD?
@SmithOffGrid5 ай бұрын
I have actually seen some of those in solar applications. I hadn't considered them for a whole home SPD though. From a quick search, the MNSPD-300-AC is their 120/240v rated unit. 80kA surge, MCOV 470V, VPR 1200V, 5 year warranty, response time <1 micro sec. Looks like a much less capable device from all the metrics I can see. It is cheaper though!
@quickquote15686 ай бұрын
That's what you get when you buy a cheap Chinese made high frequency inverter.
@SmithOffGrid6 ай бұрын
Very true... Honestly wish there were more options in this form factor and capacity
@ironborg64057 ай бұрын
Great video, ran into the exact same issues as you.
@petes-kj2uo7 ай бұрын
where did you terminate the ground on the ac output in the trailer?
@SmithOffGridАй бұрын
I ran the AC output lines including ground to the AC panel of the RV. It's connected to a grounding bar there and the grounding bar is also connected to the RV frame
@saxplayingcompnerd7 ай бұрын
Is the lug screw tight??? If the screw is not tight the screw does not have any connection to the terminal conductor..
@SmithOffGridАй бұрын
You definitely want it snug. Just wanted to call out not to over tighten it and strip the threads or crush the board
@nickrhee71788 ай бұрын
I am glad you made this video. Signature Solar tech support told me how to un-bond N-G bonding and they pointed out wrong screw- the one near by heatsink- they even sent me pictures with red circles around the wrong screw head. After watching your video the N-G bonding screw was at different location. Signature Solar's tech support is just pathetic. The unit that I got from them was already un-bonded. I needed to NG bonded when the inverter is in off-grid mode. When the inverter was NG unbonded my furnace emitted flashing error code - 'polarity was reversed' and the gas furnace did not come on. So I followed your instruction to bond NG and it worked as I expected. In grid mode the neutral is connected to the ground of AC-in but in off grid mode the neutral of AC output is bonded to ground of AC out. Nick
@stresstested8 ай бұрын
Did any of you successfully get this stupid wifi dongle working correctly with the app? OMG what a huge pain. So turns out you need to use the SmartClient app to set the dongle up with the house wifi credentials while connected to the wifi dongle in your devices wifi access point list. I got that to work. Then you are supposed to use SmartESS to do the rest. This is where I got stuck. I was able to add the datalogger but that's it. When you click the little icon to the right of the datalogger and scroll down it shows disconnected.
@mikemcdonald51478 ай бұрын
thank you for pointing out the different cables and settings. Im sure you have saved many headaches from happening by releasing this video. I have mine on order so this is good info to know.
@ianiliff69228 ай бұрын
Thanks! This helped me to solve my problem this evening!
@Bren399 ай бұрын
Is this the version 2 hardware.. Curved sides. That version should auto handle the bonding depending on input source in software without a screw. On your inverter, if you hardwired the screw and it's unbonded in case of ac source, it must be bypassing that connection internally. Thanks for the video and your comments.
@SmithOffGridАй бұрын
Yeah this is the v2 with the curved sides. It has the hardware (relay) to do it but mine was missing the ground connection to make it work. Adding the screw gives the bonding relay a way to connect neutral and ground. It's automatic, just missing that one piece. Not sure if they still have been shipping without that screw but it was need in mine.
@ubroberts55419 ай бұрын
Mine unlocked: 28 mph eco. 54 mph sport.
@MarcelLeonar2 ай бұрын
How do you unlock it?
@TinfoilYT2 ай бұрын
@@MarcelLeonarcut some wire
@SmithOffGridАй бұрын
I didn't have to cut any wires on mine but it seems like they all come a little different. There's some good unlock tutorials you can find.
@romppiainen16 күн бұрын
How did you unlock yours?@@SmithOffGrid
@egkingjr9 ай бұрын
What if I were to use a Honda 2200i pure sine wave generator as ac input. The Honda is floating neutral. Would the Ev 3000 “disable” the neutral bond in this case? I think with floating neutral ac input (and no earth grounded bonded ac load panel downstream) you’d still want the Ev 3000 in internal bind config right?
@SmithOffGrid9 ай бұрын
Yeah the 3000 EHV would see the AC input and disconnect the neutral-ground bond, even though the input has a floating neutral. If that’s a primary use case for you I’d probably get a generator bonding plug. Or if you don’t ever plan on connecting to the grid, and don’t care about the bond being dynamic, you could bond at your breaker panel and leave the bonding screw removed.
@jdawg68159 ай бұрын
Is it easy to remove from the swing arm? And transition back to the original mounting plate to put outside ?
@SmithOffGrid9 ай бұрын
Definitely possible but it wouldn’t be super quick. You’d need to unscrew the arm mounting plate from the TV and reattach the one that connects to the bracket outside
@johnyoung62549 ай бұрын
Ever helpful. Just ordered this system so watching videos on it. Sure thankful for the heads up!😅
@EricKolibas9 ай бұрын
They must have given me that 7,8 pin cable then, I kept getting error 19 I think it was. Doesn’t have a sticker label like that on it.
@SmithOffGridАй бұрын
So frustrating. Glad you figured it out!
@arnoldsolof10 ай бұрын
If in AC Bypass mode, the inverter disconnects the bond from the output neutral to the chassis ground, how is the output neutral ground bond maintained on the AC output? Is it just then passing the utility AC ground and AC neutral through to the output (which is already bonded at the house's utility panel)?
@SmithOffGrid10 ай бұрын
Yeah exactly. When there is AC input the neutral/ground bond is passed through to the AC output from your house panel.
@arnoldsolof10 ай бұрын
Spencer, exactly how did you verify the neutral-ground bond of the inverter disconnected when it was running on utility power?
@SmithOffGrid10 ай бұрын
I had to use a generator with a floating neutral. I could see continuity between neutral and ground when running on battery. Then when I hooked up the floating neutral generator I saw no continuity between neutral and ground which showed that the bonding relay was functioning properly and disconnecting when it sees AC input.
Пікірлер
Thank you for your demonstration, there's a similar video placed by Eg4 (kzread.info/dash/bejne/oKGal7OcYLnVico.html). In my van I'm planning to install all 110V outlets GFCI, since this inverter does not have a dedicated protection ground for the 110V output, what's your suggestion on how to effectively install functional GFCI outlets stand-alone (batteries/alternator) and connected to the grid (considering that the grid had proper protection ground). PS. Can you share details on how to relocate the display panel and switches? Thanks
I'm confused by why you installed it there. Isn't the property under construction currently and will be drywalled in so you can't see the lights or service it later?
thank you, just bought this set up.
could you mount the provided TV wall plate to the movable TV mount and the other provide TV plate to the TV so that you could slide off to take outside?
Oh, that’s a good idea! I haven’t tried it but that might actually work…
Great product! Will this work for E Ride Pro SS?
I'd love to see if the talaria or surron brackets would fit but I haven't been able to get my hands on one locally yet to check. But I can let you know when I find out!
Do you have the mx3 or is the sting only the mx4?
Yeah mine is the MX3
Is there a speed limiter on every single model that they sell?
pretty much most performance ebikes, especially e-motos (which means electric motobikes) have usually brown or green wires that u cut the unlock the speed, or have a sequence of pushing buttons and pulling levers to unlock. search up a tutorial and take my advice with decent legitimacy, although i do have a bike for myself
Will this work with a Burley bike cart?
Yes, it should! I designed it to match the burley flex connector exactly. Burley is the kind of trailer I'm using
But if you want to be sure, you can check the dimensions of the flex connectors from the photos on the product page and make sure it’ll fit in the shaft of your specific trailer. smithoffgrid.com/products/talaria-trailer-hitch
I didnt use the metal plate. It cost $100 which is ridiculous. Also installed mine inside my panel at the very bottom as thats where the only space for the 2 double 20 amp pole breakers are locbated. I cant see the SPD when i open the panel but the light shines through the spaces where the breaker is. Unfortunately i have the Fs-100 and not the 140. Is it worth switching out???
Yeah that $100 plate seems way expensive for what it is! I’d say any SPD is a huge step up from not having one. Comparing the FS100 and the FS140, the difference seems pretty minor. Personally I probably wouldn’t upgrade
This is awesome! Would love to have one!
That’s amazing!!! I need one now…
It’s not a monster it’s a baby to me I love spiders I’ve got 30+ tarantulas 😉
Looks like a wolf spider. They're pretty chill.
I agree it’s just stressed out cause they put it in a container
We see wolf spiders on our property pretty frequently, especially at night. I hear they're generally good to have around to get rid of garden pests. But never seen one this large before!
@@SmithOffGrid ohhhh gotcha I would love to catch one did y’all put it back outside like was it in y’all’s house?
Might keep it as a pet for a little bit! No it was just out in our shed, it ran by my foot when I walked in
@@SmithOffGrid ohh nice 😊
i jus got one and what does the arrows do?
The arrows set the regen level. With 4 being the highest regen and the most slowing ability when you let off the accelerator
Hi there. To answer a question below. Yes, they should be connected as close as possible to the power source(Power Service Disconnect) coming into the panel, when possible. A thing I did was similar to what you did when I installed mine. I used a threaded 1/2" npt pipe thread to 3/4" PVC connection as well, the only difference is I cut the pipe part off so it was just like a nut on the end. I then put the threaded part through the knock out into the FS140 I have so the unit is flush against the bottom of my panel. What you did is not wrong, I just think it looks neater tight against the panel. Thanks for the video! Cheers.
That's an awesome idea! Never thought of doing that. Yeah I bet it looks a lot cleaner that way. The shorter the better, that's great!
А в мене 80+ їде стоковий
53 is still limited
You can definitely push the bikes faster with a upgraded controller or battery but it's still a nice improvement!
that meme of the guy running in the top right had me laughing hard man 😂 nice one
that's not a meme, that's a gif.
@@OregonCrow yeah... I get it man.
Is this necessary to do when setting up a battery system for the home? I will have the AC input, for charging the battery in case of cloud cover. But primarily using solar to charge the battery, to power a Hybrid AC unit in the evening and on cloudy days. Thank You
Well if it's wired into a home, the N/G bond should be in a panel so the bonding screw wouldn't be needed. Main reason to add it would be if you are powering loads and are frequently switching from AC input to self-powered
to unlock it does it work on talaria sting r mx4
Not sure. If anyone has tried it please let us know!
I just checked mine its oct 2022 and the screw is there already but is that a good thing ? From what I understand is if the bond is there and you plug in (shore power) then there is 2 grounds and I think they cancel each other out (I think thats why they just started leaving that screw out but the board is the same)? Why don't you design a switch for the neutral ground bond that switches off when you are plugged in and on when you are on solar power? If you designed that neutral switch I think they would take notice as when I called them about this issue they suggested I follow the steps of your video ie: theres a video that shows that hack on you tube...
So if the screw is there that means your unit should be able to bond and unbond automatically. The screw isn’t a permanent bond. It’s connected to a relay that does exactly what you’re suggesting, it unbonds neutral and ground when connected to grid and bonds when you’re running off solar and battery. The screw just gives the relay a connection to ground it can use. No switch is needed, it does it all internally with that relay!
How long is the screw that you used
Ty for the video. But. The wire gauge: 10 vs 12 is a total mute. *bc; the 10-gauge handles 600v. The 12-gauge handle 470v. It will trip the main breaker well before any wire/circuit damage occurs. So Gauge wire isn't a "plus" when comparing these 2.
When the device shunts power during a surge I’m more interested in the current carrying capacity than the voltage rating of the wire. Being built to handle more current can only increase device longevity and is still a win in my book. But I agree, both 10 and 12 gauge should be sufficient to do the job of tripping the main breaker.
Did the instructions indicate that the closer to the inlet voltage the better? Being in the bottom corner The Surge still has to pass all the other Breakers before reaching the bottom of the panel
I actually wondered the same thing but when reading through the instructions it didn't mention anything about that. It did specify to "use closest breaker to SPD" and "ensure leads are as short and straight as possible". Per their instructions, I'm assuming those two bits are the most important factors? But either way, with my panel I have network equipment on the upper right side and a transfer switch on the left. Plus the wires to the top breakers weren't left with hardly any slack so moving them lower into the panel would have been pretty messy with a lot of splicing. So the bottom seemed like the cleanest option for me. I'd say if you can swing putting the SPD at the top to go for that! It does seem like the most ideal location would be closest to the inlet with having it come directly out one side
What is the installation method if the breaker box is recessed in the wall with drywall around it. Will the surge protector fit inside the breaker box?
I think it would technically fit inside, at least in mine, but it's not really designed for that. Siemens does make a flush mount kit that you can use to mount it recessed in the drywall next to your breaker panel There's also a more compact style of SPD that connects just like a breaker. That could be a good option if you have limited space. You'd just need to make sure you find one that matches the type of breaker your panel uses
@DustinDoesStuff I am sure by now you have gotten your answer...but just incase. If your panel has enough space in it, it is perfectly fine to install it within. The only downside you have is you can not see the lights to be sure it's still working, but the PS140 also has an audible alarm too. Cheers.
FYI Thecspecvin the Siemens fs140 was only tested with the cable st 6 inches Siemens tech support told me when I asked. He explained that if any longer cable to the panel to shorten cable as much as possible. He slso said to twist the wires from the fs140 uniformly as muvh as possible before connecting to panel if I recall. I forgot exactly what he said butbif I recall, twisting the wires if using longer than 6 inches helped reduce the difference in the spec. I had the data somewhere after talking yltoma seasoned electrical engineer which showed me the Siemens spec was significantly worse in the specs if cable 36ninches versus 6 inches. Of course the Siemens manual doesn't discuss this but I sm positive via double checking with Siemens that the spec is for a 6vinch cable length only
Yes twist wires. BC electric actually run around the diameter of the wire & NOT thru the wire. That's why the Gauge/Amp codes are in place. To small of wire to volt-amps will overheat, conduct & burn.
I have this unit in an rv and when plugged into any gfci outlet, (which is most campsites) it trips the outlet after a few seconds. I installed the screw hoping it would fix that issue but it still trips. Anybody else with this unit have the same issue?
If you have any neutral ground bonds downstream of a gcfi it will trip. I'm guessing you might have a neutral ground bond in your AC panel of the RV? If so you could unbond there and then if you add the screw the EG4 unit will bond automatically when you're self powering but unbond when you're plugged into shore power
With NG screw in, will my 30A generator sense a ground fault or will it automatically unbound NG when connected and receiving a charge?
On mine I have the NG screw in and when I hooked it up to a generator it saw the power at the AC input and automatically un-bonded N and G
@@SmithOffGrid Nice.
Having error code 19(no batt comm) I'm using just an ethernet cable from Walmart to connect to the batt. Do you think that's my issue? I didn't even look at the cables it came with lol! I will tho😅😅
Yeah you'll probably need to use the cables that came with the inverter! Communication will only work if the pinout matches exactly so I doubt other cables will work
@@SmithOffGrid yes that got the comms fixed but the main problem is I was under paneled. The least bit of shade stopped the charging. Put it in stand by mode and it will trickle charge but not in run mode. Have to add a panel lol
It needs a minimum of 125v input to charge. It has a 500v max, so put your panels in one long series to achieve the required charging volts.@@chrislewis9345
I was told the fs140 was used on many military installs it does'nt list them because it's classified
Yes, Siemens is a government and military contractor in the energy sector (and many others). So, they may not advertise military testing, but the military contracts them to provide energy services.
I installed this unit in my home. I am not tied to the grid. I have power in from an outlet. I have check for the bond between ground and neutral but I get not signal meaning it’s not bonded. Do I need the bonding screw?
So you're supplying AC power into the unit from an outlet? Is that outlet coming from the grid? And are the neutrals and grounds from the outlet bonded?
Thanks for that tip.
That was my question. Thank you.
Midnight solars SPD?
I have actually seen some of those in solar applications. I hadn't considered them for a whole home SPD though. From a quick search, the MNSPD-300-AC is their 120/240v rated unit. 80kA surge, MCOV 470V, VPR 1200V, 5 year warranty, response time <1 micro sec. Looks like a much less capable device from all the metrics I can see. It is cheaper though!
That's what you get when you buy a cheap Chinese made high frequency inverter.
Very true... Honestly wish there were more options in this form factor and capacity
Great video, ran into the exact same issues as you.
where did you terminate the ground on the ac output in the trailer?
I ran the AC output lines including ground to the AC panel of the RV. It's connected to a grounding bar there and the grounding bar is also connected to the RV frame
Is the lug screw tight??? If the screw is not tight the screw does not have any connection to the terminal conductor..
You definitely want it snug. Just wanted to call out not to over tighten it and strip the threads or crush the board
I am glad you made this video. Signature Solar tech support told me how to un-bond N-G bonding and they pointed out wrong screw- the one near by heatsink- they even sent me pictures with red circles around the wrong screw head. After watching your video the N-G bonding screw was at different location. Signature Solar's tech support is just pathetic. The unit that I got from them was already un-bonded. I needed to NG bonded when the inverter is in off-grid mode. When the inverter was NG unbonded my furnace emitted flashing error code - 'polarity was reversed' and the gas furnace did not come on. So I followed your instruction to bond NG and it worked as I expected. In grid mode the neutral is connected to the ground of AC-in but in off grid mode the neutral of AC output is bonded to ground of AC out. Nick
Did any of you successfully get this stupid wifi dongle working correctly with the app? OMG what a huge pain. So turns out you need to use the SmartClient app to set the dongle up with the house wifi credentials while connected to the wifi dongle in your devices wifi access point list. I got that to work. Then you are supposed to use SmartESS to do the rest. This is where I got stuck. I was able to add the datalogger but that's it. When you click the little icon to the right of the datalogger and scroll down it shows disconnected.
thank you for pointing out the different cables and settings. Im sure you have saved many headaches from happening by releasing this video. I have mine on order so this is good info to know.
Thanks! This helped me to solve my problem this evening!
Is this the version 2 hardware.. Curved sides. That version should auto handle the bonding depending on input source in software without a screw. On your inverter, if you hardwired the screw and it's unbonded in case of ac source, it must be bypassing that connection internally. Thanks for the video and your comments.
Yeah this is the v2 with the curved sides. It has the hardware (relay) to do it but mine was missing the ground connection to make it work. Adding the screw gives the bonding relay a way to connect neutral and ground. It's automatic, just missing that one piece. Not sure if they still have been shipping without that screw but it was need in mine.
Mine unlocked: 28 mph eco. 54 mph sport.
How do you unlock it?
@@MarcelLeonarcut some wire
I didn't have to cut any wires on mine but it seems like they all come a little different. There's some good unlock tutorials you can find.
How did you unlock yours?@@SmithOffGrid
What if I were to use a Honda 2200i pure sine wave generator as ac input. The Honda is floating neutral. Would the Ev 3000 “disable” the neutral bond in this case? I think with floating neutral ac input (and no earth grounded bonded ac load panel downstream) you’d still want the Ev 3000 in internal bind config right?
Yeah the 3000 EHV would see the AC input and disconnect the neutral-ground bond, even though the input has a floating neutral. If that’s a primary use case for you I’d probably get a generator bonding plug. Or if you don’t ever plan on connecting to the grid, and don’t care about the bond being dynamic, you could bond at your breaker panel and leave the bonding screw removed.
Is it easy to remove from the swing arm? And transition back to the original mounting plate to put outside ?
Definitely possible but it wouldn’t be super quick. You’d need to unscrew the arm mounting plate from the TV and reattach the one that connects to the bracket outside
Ever helpful. Just ordered this system so watching videos on it. Sure thankful for the heads up!😅
They must have given me that 7,8 pin cable then, I kept getting error 19 I think it was. Doesn’t have a sticker label like that on it.
So frustrating. Glad you figured it out!
If in AC Bypass mode, the inverter disconnects the bond from the output neutral to the chassis ground, how is the output neutral ground bond maintained on the AC output? Is it just then passing the utility AC ground and AC neutral through to the output (which is already bonded at the house's utility panel)?
Yeah exactly. When there is AC input the neutral/ground bond is passed through to the AC output from your house panel.
Spencer, exactly how did you verify the neutral-ground bond of the inverter disconnected when it was running on utility power?
I had to use a generator with a floating neutral. I could see continuity between neutral and ground when running on battery. Then when I hooked up the floating neutral generator I saw no continuity between neutral and ground which showed that the bonding relay was functioning properly and disconnecting when it sees AC input.
Wow! What a great idea!