GeneralPelle - Scale Models & Dioramas
GeneralPelle - Scale Models & Dioramas
Hi, i'am GeneralPelle. I'am building scale models & dioramas. Have fun watching!
Follow my current build progress on Instagram: instagram.com/generalpelle/
Buy me a coffee: www.buymeacoffee.com/generalpelle
Website: modellbau-pelle.ch (german text only)
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What was the grey you used for the upper Hull after the preshading and chipping fluid?
light compass ghost gray from ammo mig.
@@GeneralPelleScaleModels Thank you 👍
@@stevejones6346 You're welcome :)
Keep up the good work
@@RubenPratt-cq6en thanks mate. Unfortunately the video is quite old, and the drawing was 3 years ago…
Hello how long should you wait before applying the activator. LG
Hallo, aufgrund deines Namens und dem LG gehe ich mal davon aus, dass du deutsch sprichst, daher verzichte ich mal aufs englische und wechsle in meine Muttersprache ;) (if my assumptions are wrong and you don’t speak german, please let me know). Die Paste trocknet meistens innerhalb von 30 bis 60 Minuten, das hängt jedoch davon ab wie dick du sie aufträgst und wie hoch die Luftfeuchtigkeit ist. Man kann aber ganz gut sehen, ob sie noch feucht ist. Die Farbe ist dann ein wenig dunkler, sobald sie sich aufhält und die nassen Flecken verschwinden, kann der Aktivator aufgetragen werden.
Audio is great. I am truly in awe of your skills!
Thank you very much, glad you like it :)
12:25 Is my favorite part of the video.
Wow just wow, beautiful model, superb narration, really informative and excellent music choice, I've just started a 1/72 gato class and this video has give n me more information than the last 20 i have watched put together, please keep the format for the rest of your video's. SUBSCRIBED 👍
Thank you very much and welcome on board. I did indeed kept the format for the next two released videos so far, but please keep in mind that KZread might show you some older videos now that doesn’t have it. Please don’t be disappointed :) And happy building with the gato class. That’s a huge beast in 1/72!
David R Lentz, Columbus, Ohio, USA (Sunday, 23 June, 2024). Updated I take delight in watching your video build of the Border Model 1:35th-scale plastic model kit of the conning tower and a 66-cm segment of the hull of a Deutsche Krieksmarine Typ VIIc Unterseeboot (U-Boat). Had I the resources, I would do similarly, except that I would display as it succumbs to the fearsome blast of a pair of 160-kg U.S. Navy air-dropped depth charges. These would descend from the forward bomb bay of the Hong Kong Models 1:32nd-scale kit of Consolidated’s B-24D Liberator USAAF Heavy Bomber, which I would convert to a replica of a Consolidated PB4Y-1 Liberator U.S. Navy Maritime Convoy Patrol Bomber, positioned airborne, its four propellers spinning, the aeroplane painted in the USN tri-colour camouflage scheme of gloss dark sea blue on the upper wings, flat dark sea blue on the upper fuselage, intermediate blue on the vertical surfaces, and gloss white on the ventral surfaces; it might have some minor alterations in electrical equipment here and there, as well. I also would endeavour to extend the submarine’s submerged hull sufficiently enough to equal the wingspan of the formidable bomber: 33.528 metres, which in 1:32nd-scale would be 104.775 cm, and in 1:35th-scale 95.794 cm. (As I am a word nerd, though NOT a maths whiz, I cannot infer which would have a more realistic appearance.) I would include the deck figures, adding a second set posed in recoil from the explosion washing away some of them. If you would like, you could use my idea herein for a future project. I suggest an aircraft because I doubt if a destroyer escort or similar in 1:35th-scale would be affordable or physically practical; the full hull of this Typ VIIc U-Boat would be nearly two metres in length! Revell Germany makes this submarine in 1:144th-scale e (05100). The company had produced a U.S. Navy Fletcher-class destroyer (over 114.6 metres in the actual), in this scale a significant 79.58 cm (05150)! The sub, 67.056 metres in the actual, and 46.567 cm in 1:144th-scale. The pair in combination would make for a dramatic display. I would create displays of aircraft, ships, vehicles, figures, buildings, etc., in different scales for an immensely intriguing forced perspective diorama. A half metre or so behind that USN destroyer and DKM U-boat combination-one would have to look at the completed models to evaluate the actual placement-one could place Liberty ship replicas and models of their escorts in 1:700th-, 1:500th-, 1:350th-, 1:200th-, and other scales, the larger reproductions to the fore. Matchbox made a 1:72nd-scale kit of a Flower-class Corvette (PK-901) that one could set in the fore of the USN destroyer, itself contesting a Revell Germany model in the same proportion of a DKM Typ VIIc “Wolf Pack” U-Boat (05015). The following is my reply to your recent response to an earlier comment of mine: Oh, some certainly do earn significant incomes with 1) model-making, dioramas, figurines, buildings (some of historical interest, others of prospective designs for architects and their clients), most scratch-building in very large scales replicas of ships, aircraft, etc., on the staff of historical museums; 2) European miniatures that professional artisans long have crafted to astounding precision and fidelity; these miniaturists live and work at the beating heart of a centuries-old tradition in France, Italy, Germany, etc., extending back into the High Middle Ages; 3) motion picture productions of highly intricate settings, three-dimensional backdrops, etc. If you have The Lord of the Rings trilogy Extended Edition Blu-ray set, some of the discs present these very processes video recorded in progress; the staff had built some “miniatures” that were so ornate or intricate, so huge, that one senior designer-builder, Mary MacLachlan (if I recall correctly that spelling), called two statues fashioned of ceramic towering an actual seven feet “bigatures”! Hogwarts Castle is over fifteen metres across, much of it lit internally. Thank you also for appreciating my brainstorming. I have lots of ideas, though no means to implement them. Had I great wealth, I would plan them, hiring talented modellers to execute the projects. Shortly after the Second World War one foggy morning, a North American Aviation B-25 Mitchell USAAF Medium Bomber crashed into an upper storey of the Empire State Building. To reproduce that with a Hong Kong Models 1:32nd-scale kit would require a replica of the iconic edifice over 14 metres tall!
Hi David, that’s sounds like a nice idea. I doubt the size difference matters that much in that case, you could please the bomber more far away for a forced perspective. Would love to build something like this, but i honestly don’t have the space for it. There would also be a 1/72 variant (full uboat model), which maybe a better choice considering the size of such a project. Anyway, if you build it, make sure to send me some pictures please :) Greetings from Switzerland.
A little tip for everyone for realism... the top cover for the instruments pod and the cockpit surfaces in general is YELLOW when the black paint is worn through! The same goes for the air frame. This is because the aircraft is coated with a YELLOW or Light BLUE-GREEN protective surface treatment for the aluminum. You seldom have wear so deep it gets through the paint and the surface treatment. Even if you did, these is almost no chance there is zero yellow (or blue-green) and all silver in the chipping and wear. This is true even for very heavily used and worn down F-16As going in for their F-16V (aka Block 20 AM) overhaul at AIDC Taiwan. Don't take my word for it. Take a look at photos or ask anyone on the flight line.
Thanks for the tips :)
Thats a Masterpiece 🫡
Thank you very much 🙏
You did a fantastic job !!! And the chips were very realistic...
Absolutely the best Viper i've ever seen , except for the chipping ! Sorry....Was in Afghanistan in summer with several Dutch Vipers , they were dirty and greasy but no chips....
Thank you very much. Well, I wasn’t sure about the chips either. As said to others, I like them by now. Might be not realistic, indeed….
好帥
谢谢你的夸奖!
Awesome weathering!
Thanks mate :)
Impressive!
Thanks :)
Got a question, what are you using for painting small parts? Is see you stick something like clay on it?
That is Blu Tack. Quite easy to remove and can be used again after that. Can also be used to create soft line camouflages ;)
If he go any further, this thing will fly.
Hehe, thanks mate
Your build and painting technique seems fine to me, you will improve your techniques as you go along, although you're always going to get comments from people I suppose. Hopefully I can aspire to your level one day. Thanks for the video and the ideas, once my pension comes in I'll check the pennies and see what I can get. 👍
Thank you. I’m trying out new techniques with every project, and at least I think, I’m getting better at it that way. And I think that’s one of the most enjoyable things about this hobby. Wish you happy building :)
Love the voiceover
Thanks mate, glad you like it :)
Ein wunderschönen Tiger-1 , sehr gute Arbeit 👍🏻❤️
Freut mich, dass er dir gefällt :) Vielen lieben Dank 🙏
The mud and splatter look great.
Thanks mate :)
Did you base it on a refpic (reference picture)?
Not really. I usually don’t base my work on a single reference picture. I see scale modeling more of an art, rather than a replication of reality. That said, I use refpics from time to time to check the color of particular parts. For this build I didn’t use any, most pictures are black and white anyway and if they are in color, it’s not really accurate.
General Greetings. Let me say that my suggestion comes from my experience as an tank crew memeber for more than 20 years. As for the chipping, the work you did on the winter camouflage is more than realistic since the white was rendered with washable paints that are less resistant than the original ones. Less realistic is instead chipping the armored plates painted with original schemes (desert yellow, olive green, German grey) as they are very resistant. Other metal parts in iron, aluminum etc. (tool boxes, equipment, etc.) can realistically be chipped. As for the tracks, they are made of special steel, so the spare ones are covered in (moderate) rust, while the running gears are not rusty. A more realistic way is to use a color obtained by mixing dark gray with a few drops of dark red as a base and then dotting the entire track with dark browns and dark grays to reproduce the different hue of the "used steel". The edge part and the inside ones where the wheels turn can be highlighted in silver as you have done realistically. I hope I have been of some help. Happy modelingoil
Again, thank you very much for your detailed writeup. I defensively will take this into consideration when doing my next tank, which unfortunately won’t be anytime soon, as I’ll concentrate more on aircrafts for the next few builds. But I’ve an Abrams tank in my stash, where I’ll try to make the tracks as you described. Regarding this, I guess some dust makes sense here (tank will have a desert camouflage)…?!
@@GeneralPelleScaleModels dust is the best choice for desert camouflage . Go On !!!!
Ignore buddy. Fantastic piece of work. There's always one !!! I'd like to ask him about his service of 20 years ! whats his secret ? He's doing well considering his time in the Tiger was years ago. So he's doing well. Especially with his major expertise of this WORLD WAR TWO Tank. I ask as with him knowing EVERYTHING( very loose term) about the tank, then he was obviously there. Ignore my friend. You are a magician truly brill. Stay safe and hold your head high, brilliant.
Fantastic and brilliant analysis. Probably you never see a real tank . It was not a critic to an artistic job just a comment
Good Day Modelcomrade A nice Winter Beast.. 😊 Great build and exelent Camouflage ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐from me for the Tiger Greets from Christian at Germany
Na das freut mich doch. Vielen lieben Dank.
@@GeneralPelleScaleModels da hätte ich auch auf Deutsch schreiben können.. 🤭🤭🤩🤩
@@christianrudolph1138 Durchaus, aber da mein Kanal ja auf Englisch ist kannste das ja kaum ahnen ;)
@@GeneralPelleScaleModels das stimmt wohl 👍
General greetings. I really liked your beautiful artistic painting work. Since you are recreating as real as possible a battle-worn Tiger, allow me to humbly add a couple of comments that I think are helpful in underlining the reality of tanks. First of all the tracks are not rusty at all in a working tank. The terrain with all its rocks, stones, pebbles and hard debris helps keep the tracks clean by preventing rust from accumulating. The second point concerns the massive use of chipping. I know it's a fabulous artistic technique for enhancing the visual effects of the paint job that we model makers are used to producing, but it's quite unrealistic on a tank's armor. Dirt, dust, grease and oil dots are much more realistic effects to use to replicate real life effects. Camouflage-colored chips are best suited to equipment or metal parts (not armor plates). This is not a criticism of your modeling techniques but just a note from an experienced tanker. Happy modeling
Hey, thank you very much and also thanks for your kind suggestions. I’m usually not a tank modeler, so feedback is appreciated as always. I wonder which technique I should use for the tracks? Any direction you can point me to? This time I looked pretty much at the artwork at the box, they also had this „rusty“ color on the tracks. That said, artworks are of course not the best reference but unfortunately there aren’t many colored photos from WWII. The chipping is indeed more of an artistic choice. That said, reference photos showed that the white paint was chipped away pretty much on the original subject, so I choose this method to replicate it somehow (others did it with chipping fluid, but that would caused much bigger chips at the end of the day). Again, your feedback is very much appreciated. Thanks for that.
David R Lentz, USA Oh, absolutely masterful in your artistry, sir! Your knowledge of your subject matter shows. You ought to be earning well into six figures professionally doing displays and dioramas such as these. Another treat is the elegant manner and the polished diction of the narrator. Not till well into your presentation had I learnt you were one and the same! Well, then, a professional twice over, you are! In a very general sense have I had aspirations to displays much as this. Another way one might simulate lightning’s occurrence is through using any of the phosphorescent or photo-electric materials in rod form that 1) when an electric current passes through it (possibly attenuated with a rheostat), it incandesces white, process blue, yellow, red, green, and possibly other bright hues, depending upon the type one acquires, 2) one can bend the supporting wire in various positions, which the material will hold, 3) it is a thermically cool medium, avoiding the risk of combustion. In them, I also would use translucent plastic panelling that one can 1) form in a gentle curve, 2) stain into an assortment of colours, 3) paint to suggest an overcast sky, or 4) perhaps even display a photographic backdrop (in this case, a dynamic sunset with slate grey clouds limned in bright oranges, simmering vermilions, cooler magentas, all blending into one another) . . . . Behind this one could set one’s simulated lightning, masking their appearance.
Hi David, first of all thank you very much for your nice comment and your interesting ideas on how to create thunderstorms for dioramas. That are some great tips i probably gonna try out in the future :) I added at least a high quality photographic backdrop to my diorama, which isn't visibile in the video. Well, i don't know if somebody on this planets earns six figures doing dioramas, i honestly doubt it. I already would be pretty happy if my channel had a six figures subscriber count, but even that is probably unreachable for me. Five figures seams much more reasable, but well, maybe next year ;)
David R Lentz, USA Oh, absolutely masterful in your artistry, sir! Your knowledge of your subject matter shows. You ought to be earning well into six figures professionally doing displays and dioramas such as these.
Those markings are nonsense.
Great build, but I don’t understand the Red Cross. They didn’t do that
Thank you. Oh well, probably not. It would indeed hurt stealth.
Freaking awesome mate!!!! What a work!!! Congrats
Hehe, thank you my friend
....very nice 👍👍👍🙄👏
Thank you very much :)
fantastic work my friend
Thank you very much mate. Glad you enjoyed it :)
Is that your voice?
No, please take a look at the last paragraph of the description for more informations.
Magnifico tutorial ,le a quedado increíble el tiger ,muy bien explicado todos los pasos
Muchas gracias! Me alegra saber que te ha gustado el tutorial y que encontraste las explicaciones útiles. ¡Espero que te inspire a crear algo asombroso!
Nice paint and weathering job buddy. Looks cool . Keep on the good work and model on :)
Thanks mate. Sure I’ll will, the next build is just around the corner :)
Good morning General, the Tiger turned out absolutely spot on, your weathering was donevto perfection, congratulations on a job very well done, best regards from Australia, Les
Hi Les, thank you very much for your kind comment. It’s always noch to hear from you and I’m glad you liked the little tiger :) Have a wonderful weekend.
Good afternoon, we’ve talked together on Ricardo, I was wondering if you would offer your services for some work to do? (Relatively easy I would say) please let me know if you might have some interest for it. I’m in Switzerland too. Regards. N
If you were going for a non commissioned U-boat look. We're the U-boat has been in dry dock for around 10 or more years with nothing being done to it. You hit your project correctly. But if this is an active U-boet. It would not look like that. The condition of the U-boat was very important to the crew. That was their home in the middle of the ocean. A U-boat crew would not have allowed their sub to get into such a rough state. They would not allow any rust on their boat. Even a minor amount of rust could have been missed and with the salt water. It would have grown and caused a problem for them at sea. Before you start weathering something you need to do a little more research about your item. You do great work but like I said a U-boat would not be in such bad shape if it was active. By no means am I criticizing your work. You do excellent work. I just thought you might appreciate knowing a little bit of history on the U-boat.
Thank you for your thoughtful comment and the interesting historical insights you shared about U-boats. I truly appreciate the depth of your knowledge and your willingness to engage in a constructive conversation about model building. As a model builder, my approach often involves a mix of historical accuracy and artistic freedom. While I strive to maintain certain realistic elements, I also enjoy the creative aspect that allows for interpretation and personal expression. This is similar to how artists like Picasso or Van Gogh approached their art. They often diverged from strict realism to convey deeper emotions or abstract ideas, which didn't necessarily diminish the artistic value of their work; rather, it added a unique voice and style that we now celebrate in art history. In model building, like in painting, realism can be a goal or a starting point, but the journey can also take us into realms of what could be, rather than just what was. This creative liberty is what keeps the hobby vibrant and endlessly fascinating, offering both builders and viewers new ways to envision and understand history. Your point about maintaining historical integrity in models meant to represent active service is well taken and provides a wonderful reminder about the diversity of approaches within our community. It's discussions like these that enrich our hobby, allowing each of us to learn from one another and expand our perspectives. Thank you again for your comment. I look forward to more such enriching exchanges and hope to continue sharing our passion for both history and model building!
This is an art! I have my Tamiya F-16 1:48 sitting and waiting. It will be tough to do anything even close to your work. But since I served IDF as a ground technician at t he airbase where we had squadrons of AH-64 and F-16 I can say they were kept in much better shape :)
Hehe, I believe you that, I guess the US military keep their airplanes also in better shape then I portrayed them. But as you mentioned, it’s kind of an art. And I personally think these models look better with a bit of dirt and grime on them. It’s the scale effect which makes a model look like a toy when it’s to clean, but as said, that’s just my opinion. Funny, I’m currently building an Apache helicopter (but with a dark green camouflage). I’m glad you liked my build and I wish you happy building yours. It’s a great little kit :)
You did an amazing job man and I love the hard weathering on this plane. She's old. She's goy some miles on her and she's still a bad ass plane. Great work. I'm about to paint my 1/32 F-16 from Tamiya and you have that same look I'm going after. Great work man
Hehe, yes I like them dirty :) Glad you liked it, mate. I’m always playing with the idea to get a jet in 1/32, the details on them must be amazing. But space is unfortunately an issue, even though the f-16 isn’t the biggest plane in the world. Happy building, hope it turns out great!
Weathering masterclass.
Thanks mate :)
Hello, great presentation, everything explained thoroughly and calmly, including preparations. revelation. I have a question about the effects you create with oil paints. Can this effect also be achieved with acrylic paints, e.g. Vallejo MC? Greetings from Poland
Hi, first of all thank you for your kind words. Yes, these effects can also be archived with acrylic. Also it’s more challenging and the results may differ. Oil paints dry very slowly, around one day of drying time. This enables the modeler to work carefully and build up the effects I shown in this video. Acrylic paints on the other side dry (to the touch) in minutes and then they can’t be manipulated anymore. This means you’ve to be much more quicker and can only work in small areas part by part. Also you’ll need a different varnish, e.g. an lacquer based varnish otherwise you’ll risk to lift the underlining paint (if it’s acrylic too). With Model Color from Vallejo I would suggest a good amount of glaze medium (makes it more transparent) and airbrush thinner. Also you should invest in a retarder, this gives you a few minutes more working time. The technique is more or less the same then, but you’ll have to work with a different thinner solution, again airbrush thinner from Vallejo isn’t bad for that job. Model color is pretty thick color, so just use a little bit and a lot of thinner / glaze. And I would suggest trying it first on some spare parts before using this method on the real subject. So you can practice a bit and get a hang of how to do it with acrylics. It’s doable, but to be honest it’s much more challenging. This why modelers usually prefer to use oil or enamel paints for that kind of job. It just gives you much more working time and it’s fully removable when something goes wrong. Oil paints are also not really expensive, super-hobby (big hobby online shop based in Poland) have a great collection of it in stock. Give it a try ;)
@@GeneralPelleScaleModels Hello, thank you very much for your comprehensive answer. I will follow your advice. Thank you again and best regards.
@@user-vb7ds8bt5f you’re welcome :)