Welcome to Black Lab Garage…where being poor is nothing to be ashamed of, it’s just unhandy as hell lol. We work on a little bit of everything here so stay tuned! You can email me at [email protected]. Follow us on Instagram at instagram.com/blg_2023/
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Awesome as always!
ISKY
Great video!
Thank You!
Also tractor 🚜 are like dogs, I've had good ones n bad ones, lol 😆 Jason B 😆
Well you can see I bleed red and silver! I have never had a bad Massey Ferguson. It’s hard to beat a Perkins diesel!
🎉, Brother, man tractor videos bring back my child hood, I was born in early 70s the good old muscle car day, in love ❤️ the FORDS n Dodge n Mopar lol, I was born in Waterloo, Iowa, family farmers,my dad a machinist a few uncles grandpa, worked for John Deers, in Waterloo, keep them coming 👍 👏 Jason B, Wichita, Ks
Want to know a secret? I work for Deere and Company myself. I’ve worked for them for over 25 years😉
Well nice job. Lovely country.
Thank you! I hear that a lot. I never pay attention to it I guess because I grew up looking at it lol
Been there done that. Your tractor alone is more than 1k.
That’s why I said $1000 in equipment. Most people that have a tractor has a 35hp tractor or bigger but no hay equipment because they think they have to have a bigger tractor.
@@BlackLabGarage your tractor is considered equipment
@@richardfawbush3897around here you have tractors and you have machinery or equipment that attach to the tractor. But if you want me to count the tractor I can and it would still be the same. I fixed a wrecked car for it. They furnished the parts for the wreck. I didn’t buy it and have no money in it. So still the same price lol
better yet, if this stuff does break down, you can get it back and going in an afternoon..... all that new fancy stuff..... good luck. You could be out for weeks waiting on parts. They did it this way for over a hundred years. It might be slower, but it get's the job done up right. Good Stuff My Friend!
Thank you! One thing about it is that since I don’t have equipment payments, it lets me sell my hay at a lower price to help people out. I would rather take less money and know an animal didn’t go hungry because their owner couldn’t afford to buy hay for them.
You mean good luck finding parts for that old antique equipment
@@richardfawbush3897like what? What can I not find parts for? Ford sold a million of those sickle mowers. You can still get any part you want for them. The Massey hay rake, you can still get parts for them. I actually have an older Ferguson rake and you can still get parts for it. The baler is actually a Vermeer 504C just painted red with Massey decals. You can still get parts for them also. My haybine is broke but it’s a New Holland 488. You can get any piece you want because they still build brand new 488 haybines to this day. My square baler is a New Holland Hayliner 68 that was built in 1956 and you can still get any part you want for it. So I don’t know where you’re getting this you can’t get parts for this stuff at? If it was an old Oliver baler or something I could see it.
@@richardfawbush3897 Most of that old stuff is easy to "make do" with simple fabrication repairs. Back in the day when I was in high school, you had to take and pass Ag Classes before you could take Welding. I thought that was weird until I got out into the world.
Where did the kit come from and whats the P/N?
It came from Amazon. The link is in the description.
I was sitting here yelling at the tv that it was stuck to the screwdriver. 😂😂😂😂. Cool vid. Good info. 👍
@@Jason78400M thank you for your kind words! Yeah…stupid magnetic screwdriver tips😂
WE have had excellent service life from Clay Smith Cams. They also grind an couple thou taper then most cam mfrs. They have a wide range of ramp rates as well. Plus a mom and pop store. Thanks
@@Scubasteve22 I haven’t ever used them but I have never heard anything bad about Clay Smith Cams. They probably do have better quality control over their camshafts since they actually grind their own in house rather than someone else grinding them and boxing them up like Comp does.
Can I covert my 78 f150 round lights to square?
You sure can. I did it to my 1978 F-150. It’s in this video kzread.info/dash/bejne/mWqbq8mzecybfMo.htmlsi=X6LTPNXPCQ8QAU2h
when people say to me checking timing is checking this???
Well it depends. If it’s an older engine that has points and condenser, you have to set the points gap so they open and close at the right time and you have to have a good flywheel key which times the crankshaft to the flywheel. If the flywheel key shears on a points system you will have no spark. If it is the more modern electronic ignition even with the key sheared it will still have spark. It will just be sparking at the wrong time.
@@BlackLabGarage i dont understand what you are saying but i fixed it already 😉👍👍
@@Izabella_playz I’m glad you got it fixed
Wow that was a lot of work you handled it like a Boss 🌟🌟🌟🌟 4 Gold ones for you . I have the same poly kit and I see why you put another bushing inside the front washer it has those nubs that fit inside the factory bushing and there not made to be removed the lil nibs keep the bolt from moving around totally stupid design in my opinion . I managed to get them off without breaking them but the looked like a mushroom after removal question for you I have already put the rear upper cab mount in now I need to lift the front of cab to install the upper front and upper radiator support bushings is it ok to lift the cab just enough to get the bushings out without removing my steering Rag joint or anything else ??? When I did it in the rear of cab I didn't need to remove or loosen anything I just seen the added stress on the front bushings .
I’ve only ever did the radiator support bushings by taking the radiator support off but that was because they usually needed other work also. If you have a way to raise both at the same time you should be able to do it. I wouldn’t want to raise the front of the cab with the radiator support not raising up with it. If you have to just unbolt the steering box from the frame so it can come up as you raise the cab and you don’t have to take the steering shaft loose and all that stuff.
Do you know what size bushing you found at the hardware store I'm having the same issue the factory sleeve is smaller than the prothane hole diameter
It's kind of a strange design using small bolts and putting sleeves inside like they did
@@TheThirdWheel618 I honestly do not remember what size it was now. It was a bushing that they had on the shelf at Ace Hardware. It wasn’t anything special
@@TheThirdWheel618 yeah, I’m not sure what their thinking or reasoning was behind that
🎉❤Jason B, Wichita, Ks here again. Lol ♻️ hay brother on wiring ,could u do must n how toos on Fords ?? But 1st on Usually passenger fenders,AKA,The right side of vehicle. Thats is if you're looking forward in drivers side or the steering wheel 🎡. Iam 52 ,lol born in Waterloo, Iowa. I'm Dislexic. On the Starter Sillanoid / some are 2 or 3 center smaller bolts 🔩, what are the Most??? I've seem butchery lol 😆 way too many wires attached to these over the years, I know the 1st main side both is Positive, n 2nd is the Positive Wire to the Starter. So in some , Applications, the smaller middle ones can be either a 2 post.Or three post, so on my 1979 Wife's Alisha Bronco, it was a 3 wire, it was used as a old Ks Snow removal Plow truck.so it's 3 post ,the Hydraulics were removed, But Left a wiring mess, I think the 1st bolt closest to fire wall is,"were talking middle " is to 12 volt ⚡️ Starter? " On a 2 bolt Starter Sillanoid system" The 2nd or closest the grill goes to ?? Some The alternator period and another goes to the coil Is ignition coil " That's on a points Style system, not into a newer factory Ford Derrow spark box" ?? I've seen that 2nd wire going to a to both wire Alternator and off Alternator then going to the HEI distributor. It gets Confusing to me , I think sometimes Chevy's wiring is easiers .on trucks n old blazer wiring. Ever one has its place, I watch Vise Grip Garage n Polo Barn Garage, n Junk Yard Digs, Mortsky Repair, n lol Puddins Fab Shop, on their get it running n driving Utube channels, YOU N JUNK YARD DIGS, LOL Kevin's from.Iowa lol like me, U too Ford Brothers I watch because Not Alot on info on Old Ford F150 / F250 4x4 stuff out there , U guys I watche all the time Info or stuff my old Fat Ass ,forgot to know, Thanks again 😀 for u channel n info n the getting back with a watcher n lover of your channel, Jason B, Wichita, Ks ❤❤❤❤🎉😅😅😊😊
I’ve never seen a solenoid with 3 posts in the middle. I’ve only ever dealt with the 1 and 2 smaller posts in the middle of the solenoid. The smaller posts are usually labeled. The S post connects to the wire from the key switch. It’s the post that gets 12 volts from the key switch to activate the solenoid and causes the vehicle to crank. The I terminal hooks to the + side of the coil and sends a full 12 volts to the coil when cranking. When you let off the key the coil is then powered by the wire coming from the key switch that has the ballast resistor in it so the coil only gets 6-9 volts. They crank on 12 volts but run on 6-9 volts.
@BlackLabGarage thank u again on my remember n issues Jason B
@@JasonBackes you’re welcome. Feel free to holler at me anytime
I going to have to say something here. I have a couple of 460s. One is in my. 96 F350. I like them they are robust. But the OEM heads. Suck. Only 135. Cfm on the exhaust. A FE 390 flows 176. Big difference. And telling people you have to cross bolt a 390. For just 400 - 500 hp. In not true. My poor man's jet make over 600 easy. Spun it 7100. For years in my 82. Fox body. Drag car. Just a Standerd. D4-te. 2 bolt block put around a 1000 passes on that block for years. Ran 6,50s at 104.mph. 1/8 Mile Through a C6. Trans. No fretting on the mains at all. Bearings looked great seen OEM. 390 cranks hold over 800 hp at over 8k. In super stock they are just as strong as a 429-460. Crank. Not much difference between them over all. My FE powered fox is called Tick Turd. Well known In The FE forums. Again I'm not knocking the 385 series motors. I like them. With the big aftermarket heads they rock. I'm just throwing it out there that a 390 2 bolt block has no issue spinning up to 7k. And making 600+. I've done it for years. As a budget racer. And been using 1964. 390 heads to run those times. Just my 2 cents 🖖
Well Scotty over at Parkland Automotive/ Reincarnation High Performance gets some really good power out of the fuel injected 460’s. With a valve upgrade, some porting, and a slight camshaft upgrade his fuel injected 460’s are putting out 414hp and 523lb ft of torque! That’s using the factory fuel injected intake manifold. The fuel injected heads may not be the biggest flowing head but they have more velocity than the earlier heads have. As far as crossbolting the FE’s Ford felt it was necessary. You are using a later model block with the extra main web reinforcement. That helps…but I wouldn’t try to turn a lot of rpms constantly with one of the earlier blocks that aren’t reinforced or cross bolted. Don’t get me wrong, I like the FE’s. But dollar for dollar you can build a 385 series that will walk all over an FE simply because it’s more cubic inches and a better designed engine. Everyone’s first suggestion for an FE is to put a stroker kit in them. The 429/460 already has the cubic inches in stock form.
@@BlackLabGarage the reason why ford went with cross bolting is because of NASCAR they found in the draft they ran 10 mph faster that unloaded the cranks and by the same token. You don't see any. 460s. Turning constant hi rpm either instead. short burst. Is what they see if any rpm is involved their true advantage is. Bore size. But I have found in 1/8. Mile grudge a FE. Works just fine. Out ran a few. 460s. One even had. D00ve. Heads. Big roller my combo was D4-te. Block. 1ub. Crank OEM bore. C4ae 6090. Heads just old junk and a 150 lighter where the 460. Shines is in the big cid stroker and the big. Aftermarket heads that's now available now those are real monsters been to engine systems in Tucker ga. He builds true 385 monsters Ted admitted 400hp out of. a. 390. Is to easy now I love my F350 XLT. 460. Electronic overdrive. But it's not as strong as I feel it should be the engine is ford replacement only 106.000 on it. Runs great. Quiet. But lacking in power at this point I would be happy if I could just get it up to mid 60s. 390. Hp levels. And keep the fuel injection and electronics if you have some advice there or could point me to someone that does. I would be appreciative. I only commented because you were being a little harder on the FE. Then they deserve and some of the information on them. Was not accurate if you would like to talk more about them. Pros. Cons. In private I would be glade to go to anything FE. Fb. Forum. And ask the admin or a moderator about the FE. Fox. And they will contact me and we can talk in messenger. I like your videos and like I said I have both engine plate forms. Used both for decades. Take care 🖖
@@dce428 if I was choosing a 385 series for drag racing it would be a 429 instead of the 460. Big bore and shorter stroke. Now if I had quite a bit of money to throw into an engine for drag racing like I did years ago, I know what it would be. It would be a stroker Cleveland. As far as the FE’s the biggest point I was trying to make is the first thing everyone does is add a stroker kit to them. That’s over $2,000 and you still don’t have the cubic inches of a 460. You have to have a love for FE’s to spend a lot of money to build one because they cost a lot more to build than other Ford engines. As far as the fuel injected 460’s, I have one in waiting right now. Down the road I am going to pull the 400 from my F-350 and put the fuel injected 460 engine in it but using a carburetor. It will use the factory fuel injected manifold and stuff but have a carburetor bolted down on it. You’re kind of limited to what you can do to your truck because it’s speed density isn’t it? You didn’t say what year your truck was. The F3 460 head was better than the E7 head because they have a bigger intake valve. The 1993 and up 460’s also have a taller compression height piston which helps get them up out of the hole.
@@BlackLabGarage my. F350. XLT. Is a. 96. With electronic overdrive E40d. Which uses the TPS among with several over sensors I believe I'm stuck in a box on this one for now
@@dce428 well for starters you could find a tuner that can tune the speed density computer or, get the computer and mass air meter from a 1996 California truck with a 460. They had mass air. That will let you do a lot more to it easily
Roller cam
Roller is great but they have their problems also. I’m not scared to run a flat tappet camshaft. Matter of fact my newly rebuilt 460 on the engine stand is getting a Howard’s hydraulic flat tappet camshaft
Good video! 1972 429 didn’t have a retarded timing gear set. But my stupid parts man gave me a retarded set , I found out after I had installed it in my 1972 Tbird. It was a tire burning monster and lost all its low end power and wouldn’t spin the tires at all with the stupid retarded gear set!
I had my all original 1975 F150 460 engine blow up just driving at highway speed the rod blew apart!
Where do you get the NOS parts?
eBay, flea markets, car and tractor shows,etc…
Yes original Ford parts are best! The original Ford 2v Carburetor is the best 2v Carburetor ever made I would never put any other 2v Carburetor in it place! What I would do is switch to a 4v Carburetor and intake with a Rv Camshaft if you want to really wake up your sleepy 400
I like the Autolite/Motorcraft 2V carburetors but I like my Holleys also! That was a Chinese Motorcraft clone that was on that truck. It had a remanufactured sticker on it, so apparently places are selling new Chinese carbs as remanufactured originals. I haven’t had good luck with the clone carbs so I switched it to a Holley. The 400 in my 1978 F-150 I did upgrade the camshaft and put a 500cfm Holley 2V on it. It did wake it up but for what you would spend on an intake manifold and carb for a 400, you can put a 460 in them instead. Which is what I’m doing. Better engine design and uses less gas than a 400 when built properly.
How does the flex plate with weight need to be oriented in relation to the hatchet weight?
The flex plate will only bolt up one way. Two holes are closer together than the other holes. You can only get all the bolts in, in that one position
Thanks
Thank You! Me and the pups greatly appreciate it!
Thanks for the info. man!
You’re welcome!
At this point in time, I wouldn't buy comp mudflaps for my wheelbarrow.
That's one of the best comments I have seen about Comp but its totally true🤣
What about the hardness though? and surface finish(porous vs polished)?
Everything I have seen, the hardness of the lifters is fine. I have used lifters that had the swirl grind marks on the bottom and some that looked polished and had no problems with either one.
What are your thoughts on elgin lifters? Thanks for taking time to respond
From what I have seen on the boxes, they are made in Mexico so it’s a gamble
Thank you for the imput
@@dougdier3104 you’re welcome!
Quality control is different from each manufacturer. The basic body may be made in the same location, but machining is done at specific locations. Get the diameter of the internal clearances. Amd the heat treat is also different. Some are flame kissed and others treated by electrical current.
They are all 832 lifters... It could be materials or the hardening process, or just more people unaware of how to properly break in a cam....But here is the golden ticket for success, if success is going to happen. 1. Clay smith cams puts an xtra couple thou taper on their flat tappet cams. They arent having failures.. 2. Use johnson lifters. I also like crower x series with flat spot on the side to lube the lobe. 3. Make sure to hone the lifter bore so it will spin freely. 3.1/2. If you can use low ratio rockers or take out the inner spring if duals,that would help.. 4. Use a break in straight 30 oil. Joe gibbs, amsoil, royal purple etc. Not reg oil with an additive.. 5. Run the engine for 10 minutes at a time during break in. Vary the rpm, dont set the idle screw at 2200 and walk away.. Let it cool a bit , check everything and repeat. 2,000-2500. 6. Change oil, put break in oil back in... 7. dont let it idle excessively until it can be put on the dyno, or in the vehicle... Any questions, let me know. Good luck!
I personally haven’t had any problems using flat tappet camshafts. As far as Johnson lifters you have the argument over Hylift Johnson and Johnson over who is the original. From my research Hylift Johnson is the original and still makes their own lifters. I always use SAE 30 for break in. I think valve springs also contribute to the cam failures. The Xtreme Energy camshafts from Comp have lived that are too aggressive and require very still valve springs to keep the lifter on the lobe of the camshaft because of the aggressive ramps. Very stiff springs combined with lifters that may be slightly out of spec equals wiped out camshaft. I only use enough valve spring that will take me to the rpms I’m going to run the engine. I use camshafts with slower ramps, and just enough valve spring to do the job and that’s it. Knock on wood I have not had any problems. I also agree with honing the lifter bores
Put a direct drive.
I’ve never messed with a gear drive
Also beware comp cams has bought other camshaft names and grinds them. Like lunati and a few others
Well if it’s an off the shelf camshaft Comp doesn’t grind them themselves. They are ground by Camshaft Machine Company or one of the others and simply reboxed. Comp does grind custom camshaft themselves, but the standard off the shelf Xtreme Energy, Magnum, or one of the other series camshafts they sell that you buy from Summit or Jegs they do not grind themselves. Comp, Lunati, Edelbrock, and some others are all owned by IOP. Industrial Opportunity Partners. Comp doesn’t even own themselves anymore
I bought Summit flat lifters for my FE & they are, or appear to me anyway, identical to the lifters that came with my mellings camshaft for a FE.
They are probably sourced from the same place in Mexico more than likely
On my 1978 Ford Bronco build, u have any input on motor mounts,?? Also is the a good Thumper can I could easily but in my 460? Me n my wife pulled the 460 out of a 1978 Ford Van RV?? I did grab the motor mounts from them Van Rv. So I haven't got to it yet, lol Also my wife has her yellow n white 1979 XLT auto she ,well THE BOSS WANTS 1ST LOL ,THANKS, Jason B, Wichita, Ks
You can use L&L mounts to drop the 460 into the bronco or Jeff’s Bronco Graveyard has some extreme duty mounts that has the rubber part that is replaceable. I believe Trans Dapt also makes a mount to drop a 460 into a bronco or F-150. As far as the Thumpr cam my advice is don’t do it. Those cams are ground purely for sound and that’s it. Broncos are heavy and you won’t be happy with how it runs and pulls. I’ve been down that road. I didn’t use a Thumpr cam but I used a Lunati cam that is similar sized to the Thumpr and ground on a 108 lobe separation. I also had flat top pistons in that 460, a 2800-3000 stall converter and 4:56 gears. I ended up removing the Lunati camshaft and I put the stock camshaft back in it. You have to remember that you have low compression which will makes yours even worse on the bottom end. The 360hp 460 rating was using the stock camshaft that remained the same until the end of the 460. Unless it was a Cobra Jet or a marine 460 they all used the same camshaft. My advice is stay with the stock camshaft or just slightly bigger and use a straight up timing set.
@@BlackLabGarage thank u for your feedback, I really do appreciate 🙏 it, Jason B, Wichita, Ks
@@JasonBackes You're welcome! I know it isn't what you wanted to hear but I was just being honest with you. For example the cams I have for my 460's now are based on my past experiences having to run stall converters and low gears to compensate for camshafts that were too big. For my 1978 F-150's 460 I picked the Howards cam that has 215 intake and 223 exhaust duration @.050. That is about as big as you can go and not need a stall converter and also keep in mind that I put flat top pistons in that 460 and zero decked the block so it's compression is 9.5:1 or a little more. Would I install that camshaft in a stock low compression carbureted 460? Absolutely not! The other 460 I have set back is for my 1979 F-350. It is a 1995 model fuel injected 460. I will be installing a carburetor on it but keeping the fuel injected heads. Those engines had 8.9:1 compression but I need more low end pulling power than my F-150 so for that engine I have a NOS Lunati camshaft. It was made way before they were bought out. Because of the lower compression of the fuel injected 460 and because I need more pulling power that camshaft has 205 intake and 215 exhaust duration @ .050. Hopefully that gives you some ideas on what you can use in your 460 but keep in mind your 460 will only have7.5-8:1 compression if it still has the carbureted dished pistons. The C8SZ-6250-A camshaft which came out in the 429 Thunderjet engines and was used as the stock camshaft for all 429/460 engines unless they were Cobra Jets, marine engines, or similar had 193 intake and 206 exhaust duration @ .050. So it doesn't take much camshaft to go bigger than stock. Also keep in mind that you get into retainer to valve guide clearance issues when you get around .530"-.540" of valve lift. Have to measure to be sure.
You're best bang for the buck on a stock 460 is to port the exhaust side of the heads, install a straight up timing set, and recurve the distributor. You will gain 30-50hp depending on the rest of your set up and the cost is less than $100 in parts and some of your time. The straight up timing set alone will gain you around 20hp or a little more. Get a timing set for a fuel injected 460. They are straight up, cheap and double roller. Just have to discard the flat oil slinger on the crankshaft when you use a double roller timing set on a 460.
@BlackLabGarage on rear breaks I have redo whole rears on my wife's 79 Ford Bronco, is it cheaper to get all at local parts chain,or rockauto? Or I seen on Bronco graveyard the whole rear kit for 170.00 bucks, but with shipping to ks would it be better by all parts at local parts stores?? Thanks for all u feed back
The Summit lifters look identical to the lifters that came in my ATK/VEGE 351W long block. The grind looks the same as well. They survived being run on a sim tester and the cam I took out looks good but I'm going to use my NOS F1DZ-6500-A lifters. You suppose there would be an issue reusing those new lifters on a different cam after being run on a sim tester? they look like they were never on a cam lobe at all and they all passed the crown test. I've seen some NOS Ford FE lifters on Ebay with the same type of grind pattern, must be a different grinding method used or something compared to the grind pattern on the Howards or Comp.
Well I’m supposed to say no on reusing lifters even if they have had very little run time or in your case simulator time. But have I done it? I sure have. I didn’t have any problems reusing mine and they had maybe 20-30 miles of driving on them. But of course it isn’t recommended but I’d say a lot of us have done that at one point or another
@@BlackLabGarage Yeah I think they'd be ok there is barely even a witness mark in the phosphate finish on the cam. I don't think the sim testers run very long or very fast.
@@MattsRageFitGarage I've heard about the simulation testers but I don't know much about them. Nobody around here has one
No dont use this crap buy NOS lifters
I have a bunch of NOS lifters but if I was to buy new ones they probably would be from Howard’s
To bad if you get hate... Let the haters hate....you did the right thing Howards would be my choice having the correct crown is as important as how the lobes on the cam are machined.... I've always placed the nose of the lifter on the side of another lifter to check for wear of the crown on used lifters works with new as well, since the bodys are suspposed to be straight... But who knows today 😊.... Thanks for the video I stole the lifters from a NOS purple cam kit now I have to get new ones so howards or hughes will have to be my choice...the comps are way to scary.
Crown and r heat treating sucks on New chinacrap
@@Haffschlappewell yeah... But it's our fault for letting it happen...don't buy the crap!... China can make anything it's the companies share holders insane lust for profits that has screwed us...and it's not just automotive parts it's everything! .... Just bought a 2011 impala for a beater car...was doing work to it under dash.. All the stickers on everything says made in China!... Glad I only paid $1500 for it and even then I feel I over paid!
Just keep watching eBay. I scored that NOS set of Crane lifters for $27. So the deals pop up on there from time to time
@@BlackLabGaragecool 😎
Good episode. I have been fooling with engines since I was 10 and flatheads were the norm. I'm over 3/4 of a century now and I still don't trust Comp ... From the get go, they wanted to be the "sales leader" so mass MFG. Have used Howard's many time w/o a failure (so far ...). Have also used Doug Herbert and a few others from time to time. Our last BBC build for a jet boat w wet exhaust was a Howards cam and Rhoads lifters because the cam was ~280* and I needed the lifters to retard at idle so we didn't get reversion. In discussion with Rhoads they absolutely confirmed that their parts are made by Johnson Controls in the US. I trust them and so far all is well. So my choices are Howard's Direct Lube, or Crower Cam Saver (same idea), or Rhoads. Not going anywhere else for flat tappet stuff. But bottom line is always inspect your lifters to make sure they have crown and a decent grind pattern. And check your cam for taper. If it's not tapered enough (~0.003") you'll loose it all. And the right oil, and cut open that filter at the first change (~100 miles) 😅
In Germany we use Sae30 Lawnmower4 stroke oil for old OHVs plus 4% Mos2 additive
When I build my Pontiac engine, more than likely I will use Rhoads lifters in it
Make sure you don't buy the cheap Crower cam savers, I bought a set of those and the grind was so bad it looked like it was done freehand with an angle grinder. I sent them back.
@@MattsRageFitGarage cheap Crower cam savers? Does Crower have two different lines?
@@BlackLabGarage Yep I found that out after I bought them. A cheap set and another version made by Hylift Johnson.
Will they only ruin the cam if the bottom is cut wrong? Is it the only factor that can really cause lifter failure in the actual construction of the lifter?
Heat Treating too Soft and crown wrong
Well no…several other things can cause lifter failure. If the lifter bores are worn too much it will make the lifter cock sideways under load and bind up. Every lobe on the camshaft is ground at an angle to make the lifter spin. If the cam has no angle or the wrong angle the lifter will eat the camshaft in no time. Does it ruin just the cam if the lifters are ground wrong on the bottom? No…when the lifter goes out all the pieces of the lifter and camshaft go thru the oiling system and usually destroys the crank and bearings in the process.
🎉❤Another great video 📹 on one of your videos you drilled out a Carb spacer on a holley carb, from.a old machinist if no drill press stop, I use a piece of gray Bird Tape, for my depth, 😊 Jason B, Wichita, Ks
Thank you for your kind words. Tape works or I have some of those kind that slip over the drill bit and tighten with an Allen screw. I was just drilling it deep enough for those Allen head bolts to be slightly recessed and not cause a vacuum leak
Thanks
Thank You! Me and the pups greatly appreciate it!
Yeah I like use a breather on valve cover on one head and a PCV on the other side hooked up to intake or carb. No major oil leaks. Good stuff. Keep it comin'!
That’s the way it should be done. Clean filtered air coming in as the pcv system pulls the stuff out. Thank you for your kind words
The pcv system is better than nothing but it also causes problems such as carbon buildup and clogging millions of catalytic converters. The pcv system alone is not good enough alone and needs to be used with a catch can or similar device to catch all that crap instead of putting that crap back into the engine.
Especially in the case of high mileage engines
Yonyu, ddr is the factory, its a copy of an old dart pro 1 170cc casting with some port work done. There closer to 180cc then 190 as cast..
Yeah I posted a link to their website in the comments
Anyone you have to explain this to is either to old and draft tube Veteran or to young and V-Pump user. Mid 60's-80's or so Folks need to pay attention! They were there for a good for Damn Good reasons!
I agree with you. Unfortunately there are still people who say to just run two breathers and you will be fine. Then they wonder why their new engine blows oil all over the valve covers and has oil leaks
The old 1st gen FE's.... sweet man!
That one firing up and running as good as it did really surprised me after being stuck like it was
Handiest shop tool you can possibly own!
I agree. A tractor and an acetylene torch are two of the handiest tools you can have! I have already rehomed the Ford tractor to a good home where it is being used and is also a father son project to paint it up.
Looks like an Autolite from the late 60's, I think they were made by Holley, but were used on the 385 (small) spread bore Fords. But I could be totally wrong as well.... lololololol.
Those Autolite 4300/Motorcraft 4350 carbs were horrible lol
When I started mechanicing the PCV system became mandatory and Hot Rod Magazine always recommended removing the PCV system. They claimed 5 HP gain or something stupid like that. I had one guy bring his nicely done Chevelle in because it kept blowing oil out of gaskets. He removed the system as recommended by Hot Rod in an article with no alternative ventilation. His first lesson in don't believe everything you read or hear.
Yeah take anything Hot Rod says with a grain of salt lol
Thanks!
Thank You! It is greatly appreciated!
Back in HS shop , i built a .30 over 460 and added 69 Dove 429 heads , 280 magnum cam with port o sonic intake .. slapped it in a 1969 cougar ..
I bet that was a tire roaster lol