Пікірлер

• 
  @JohnSmith-sf8gjКүн бұрын

  Ya lost me at Vertex rotary, the sine plate, and angle plate. As much as i'd like to make a shell mill out of scrap, it'll be far less to buy the 50 buck import! Great video, very informative, thanks for sharing.

• 
  @alanshomeworkshopКүн бұрын

  There was a bit of head scratching and high school trigonometry :) End result was very pleasing though and I have found the cutter to be a useful addition to my toolkit. Thanks for watching John. Cheers.

• 
  @krishnaengg77174 күн бұрын

  Very good

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  @alanshomeworkshop3 күн бұрын

  Thank you

• 
  @user-xm8ud3nn6m6 күн бұрын

  Como conseguiste los planos

• 
  @alanshomeworkshop6 күн бұрын

  Greg's Machine Shop: KZread - ‪@gregsmachineshop‬ Website - gregsmachineshop.com/

• 
  @user-xm8ud3nn6m6 күн бұрын

  @@alanshomeworkshop gracias

• 
  @graedonmunro179310 күн бұрын

  really ,, really good mate!!!

• 
  @alanshomeworkshop9 күн бұрын

  Thanks Graedon. I'm certainly getting plenty of practice at fixing mistakes :)

• 
  @christophercullen123612 күн бұрын

  Honda engines are dropping out of F1 i believe they need a machinest and engineer to safe them ! Kit from up north

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  @alanshomeworkshop12 күн бұрын

  Thanks Kit.

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  @improviseddiy12 күн бұрын

  A great save! 😅

• 
  @alanshomeworkshop12 күн бұрын

  Thank you.

• 
  @paulrayner451412 күн бұрын

  well done. How come I never come across offcuts that long!

• 
  @alanshomeworkshop12 күн бұрын

  Good'ay Paul. There's a steel supply store near me and they have an offcuts "bin" for pieces under a meter. I cruise through from time to time and check it out. My good mate Murphy ensures that I'll never find a good offcut when I need it, so I go looking when I don't :) Thanks for watching.

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  @paulrayner451412 күн бұрын

  @@alanshomeworkshop Murphy's always hanging about somewhere, sticking his oar in😁

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  @alanshomeworkshop12 күн бұрын

  @@paulrayner4514 Are you familiar with some corollaries to Murphy's Law that are particularly relevant in the workshop ? A dropped object will always land where it can cause the most trouble Where there's a possibility of multiple failures, the most damaging will occur The probability of the loss or breakage of any part is directly proportional to the difficulty of getting a replacement part. Material will be damaged in direct proportion to its value. And one of my favorite aphorisms: - And a voice from the gloom said smile for things could be worse; so I smiled and, yes, things indeed became worse.

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  @paulrayner451412 күн бұрын

  @@alanshomeworkshop oh yes, Mr Murphy is quite prolific in my workshop, I'm beginning to wonder if he's using my workshop to train his offspring in the mystical art lately.😁

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  @redmonarocv813 күн бұрын

  Great job Alan, well saved.

• 
  @alanshomeworkshop12 күн бұрын

  Thanks Henry.

• 
  @RB-yq7qv13 күн бұрын

  Lovely job Alan. Very well explained.

• 
  @alanshomeworkshop13 күн бұрын

  Thank you.

• 
  @rrsrsamsung362315 күн бұрын

  Excellent detailed video. Thank you very much. I have a similar hoist with trolley and have mounted the same on a Ibeam which is 4 inches (3.5inches inside area) x 2 inches. The trolley along with the hoist is moving back and forth by hand push but not motorised. Do you think I need a bigger I beam ? What are the dimensions of your I beam. Did you mount the trolley first and then attached the hoist to it ? I have a similar weight problem as my hpist is a 750/1500 hoist and weighs 27 kgs. Very difficult to handle. My mounting height is only 6feet though.

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  @alanshomeworkshop14 күн бұрын

  My I-Beam is 6"" deep by 3" wide with tapered flanges (the modern Universal Beam or UB profile has parallel flanges). This was the minimum width recommended for the trolley. If it is fitted to a narrower beam, the wheel flanges cannot be set close enough together to track correctly. I did mount the trolley to the beam first and then bolted the hoist up to it: kzread.info/dash/bejne/fX6MxLGSorKzqKw.html Thanks for comment and I hope the video helps you achieve your project. Cheers, Alan.

• 
  @RustyInventions-wz6ir25 күн бұрын

  Very nice work. I need to invest in a milling machine.

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  @paulrayner451429 күн бұрын

  nice work. you will have to get a jewelers loop to see, I keep going to buy one but never do😁

• 
  @alanshomeworkshop29 күн бұрын

  Thanks Paul. I've tried a few different magnification options with varying degrees of success. I currently use a USB microscope (eg for the valve stem photo), and a headband magnifier with 5 lenses for work in the lathe. The microscope is ok and more useful after I made a taller column for it. This is my "go to" tool for metal splinter removal. The headband magnifier was ok but the lens retaining clip is cracked and the lenses are prone to falling out. It also requires me to get up close and personal with the target - not always desirable with the lathe. But I shouldn't keep whining about it, there are people much worse off than me :) Cheers.

• 
  @markneedham75229 күн бұрын

  ​@@alanshomeworkshop Somewhere, a mobile phone was used as a magnifier. Not sure, me I do not own one, and never will.😊

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  @paulrayner451428 күн бұрын

  @@alanshomeworkshop I know what you mean with the head bands, i've got 4 of them. what appeals to me is I've see Joe pie using a loop and he puts the loop close to the work with his head away. like a normal magnifying glass I suppose.

• 
  @howder195129 күн бұрын

  Nice, nice, very nice!

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  @alanshomeworkshop29 күн бұрын

  Thank you.

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  @RustyInventions-wz6ir29 күн бұрын

  Very nice work sir

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  @alanshomeworkshop29 күн бұрын

  Thank you.

• 
  @rok147529 күн бұрын

  A really useful addition to a 4-facet grinding jig is an inexpensive old analog CCTV camera with microscope lens (from China via eBay) mounted in such way that if you slide the jig to the side, the tip of the drill presents itself to the camera lens and shows up on a monitor connected to the camera at 5-10x magnification. You see everything nicely and can make any corrections as you go.

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  @alanshomeworkshop29 күн бұрын

  A magnified view of the drill tip in situ would be really useful - especially to old eyes :) Thanks for watching.

• 
  @user-jj6ty2vt2xАй бұрын

  nice work Alan

• 
  @alanshomeworkshopАй бұрын

  Thanks Philip.

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  @graedonmunro1793Ай бұрын

  lots of intricate machining there Alan,, well done very enjoyable cheers

• 
  @alanshomeworkshopАй бұрын

  Thanks Graedon.

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  @shedplace8702Ай бұрын

  Nice job Alan, well thought out and nicely executed. I have the same press and struggle when moving the table. I'm going to copy what you have done. Can I ask you where you sourced the pulleys and what size are they? Thanks for your channel. Best regards from South Gippsland, Victoria.

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  @alanshomeworkshop29 күн бұрын

  The pulleys are cast iron and were sold as rope sheaves ~3" diameter with 3/8" rope groove. There is no inserted bearing and, as bought, the pulley runs on a 12mm steel pin supported between side plate straps pressed into a "Z" pattern. I would have bought them from ePay, but the only listing I could see today was from a US seller with expensive shipping. Thanks for watching and good luck with your project - it'll transform the press and make it much easier and safer to use. Cheers. PS: the winch and cable came from Bunnings

• 
  @piclife1178Ай бұрын

  The extra pressure held in the cylinder changes the atmospheric inlet valve timing slightly (holding it closed longer) causing a more optimum mixture at the particular carb setting. (Only a guess)

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  @alanshomeworkshopАй бұрын

  Sounds plausible to me. Thanks for watching.

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  @piclife1178Ай бұрын

  @@alanshomeworkshop I have a Webster engine I built a few years ago. It runs up to about 3500rpm which seems quite something when you consider the inlet and exhaust share one tiny little hole into the cylinder. I leave mine running about 1000rpm for about 45 minutes, I used an enlarged head with fins but everything gets pretty hot... I stop it if the oil starts smoking lol.

• 
  @alanshomeworkshopАй бұрын

  @@piclife1178 The longest I have run mine for is about 5 mins - its only a desk ornament :) However, when revving it up for a mate's amusement recently, the intake valve threw out its retaining pin and dropped into the manifold. Fortunately no damage was done but it could have been quite nasty as cylinder compression vented through the fuel tank until the engine stopped turning. Amazingly I found both the pin and keeper on the engine deck, so I just reattached them and all good again. I should probably make new keepers with deeper recesses to prevent this happening again...

• 
  @stewartfryeАй бұрын

  Very enjoyable, thanks for sharing

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  @alanshomeworkshopАй бұрын

  Thank you Stewart

• 
  @brucenicholls5330Ай бұрын

  Hi Alan. I am really enjoying the series and you have been an incredible inspiration. What points have you used for your ignition? Regards Bruce

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  @alanshomeworkshopАй бұрын

  Thanks for that feedback Bruce I really appreciate it. I think I kept the part no for the points and will look for it - but I just went with what was available. Car parts stores in Adelaide have stopped stocking them...

• 
  @dieselmow773Ай бұрын

  G'Day Alan, Thanks for the video. I am waiting for delivery of my Gosan 1440 from Chris T in Mt Gambier SA. I will be following in your footsteps from Vic. All the best.

• 
  @alanshomeworkshopАй бұрын

  Thank you. I'd be happy to stay in touch and share notes re the lathes. Cheers.

• 
  @christophercullen1236Ай бұрын

  Allan I services all my own cars I keep the automatic transmission fluid which I use in my power handsaw cut of machine . It cools and works as a cutting fluid works for me Kit from up north

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  @alanshomeworkshopАй бұрын

  Good idea - "waste not, want not" Cheers.

• 
  @karlmeredith710Ай бұрын

  depth gauge on end of caliper ?

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  @alanshomeworkshopАй бұрын

  Thanks for the suggestion Karl, but I have trouble getting consistent readings when using the tail of the caliper as a depth gauge. I find that the readings are quite sensitive to how I hold and position the calipers - I expect my technique isn't very good. I will use the calipers this way if I have no better option, but I have to take several measurements before I have any confidence in the reading - I'm much happier with micrometer readings :). Cheers.

• 
  @karlmeredith710Ай бұрын

  i made a similar motor (smaller and two stroke)in trade school in late 80s as a mechanic with well worn lathes and drill press we had to file conrod and crankshaft , great memories watching you

• 
  @alanshomeworkshopАй бұрын

  Thanks for watching Karl.

• 
  @mathquir190Ай бұрын

  Nice I've found one right from the garbage. It wasn't working but that was just a screw that the guy pushed too far that blocked the mechanism. I'll make some sort of jigs for it and surely use that video to make it until I lost the angle table support so I have to build one completely from wood. That'll be great to sand off some pieces square faster.

• 
  @improviseddiyАй бұрын

  I like your attention to detail, Alan!

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  @alanshomeworkshopАй бұрын

  Thank you. I always try for a good result - but I have learnt to be happy with what I can achieve :) Cheers.

• 
  @graedonmunro1793Ай бұрын

  this is a complex little build mate, more to it than i could handle so i will continue watching!!! cheers Alan.👍👍

• 
  @alanshomeworkshopАй бұрын

  Some of the setups have presented interesting challenges, but I have yet to decide how I will machine the exhaust port at 17.5 degrees to its flange face :) Thanks for watching Graedon.

• 
  @RustyInventions-wz6irАй бұрын

  Very nice work sir. The engine is coming together.

• 
  @alanshomeworkshopАй бұрын

  Thank you.

• 
  @paulrayner4514Ай бұрын

  Lots of progress this week Alan, Well done with the bolt holes, good accurate machining there👍

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  @alanshomeworkshopАй бұрын

  Thanks Paul. Such feedback is very encouraging. Cheers.

• 
  @paulrayner4514Ай бұрын

  @@alanshomeworkshop credit where it's due mate, We all learn from others, and I for one am thankful to you for taking the time for sharing your journey, the good, bad and the ugly we all learn from it. Thank you👍

• 
  @jirvin4505Ай бұрын

  Thankyou for your detailed explanations

• 
  @alanshomeworkshopАй бұрын

  Thanks for watching Jeffrey - glad you found it useful. Cheers.

• 
  @redmonarocv8Ай бұрын

  Great job Alan, keep up the good work.

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  @alanshomeworkshopАй бұрын

  Thanks for your support Henry. Cheers.

• 
  @mk6595Ай бұрын

  Alan, very nice to see more progress on this. You might check out Joe Pie's video about not using the back of the tap handle with the tap guide. Titled "Machinists.....Tapping a thread on a Mill or Lathe?...Don't Do This !!!", from 1 month ago.

• 
  @dennythomas8887Ай бұрын

  That was an excellent "Shop Gem" from Joe. I did that test myself and was really surprised at how far out it actually was.

• 
  @alanshomeworkshopАй бұрын

  Thanks for that link Mike. I was aware of the concentricity issue that Joe Pie raises and have been wary of it. Most of my T-handles have two sets of gripping jaws - one at the tip and another smaller set further back in the chuck. When the square end of a tap is engaged in the inner jaws the tap shank gets additional support from the forward section of the chuck and concentricity is better. My spring loaded tap follower (Brown & Sharp) looks identical to the one Joe Pie was referencing and I didn't know that the centre shaft was double ended. I'll certainly be using that feature in future - not least because direct driving the tap needs less height under the quill. I'll also round up some weaker springs for use with my smaller taps. Thanks again.

• 
  @piclife1178Ай бұрын

  On most model engines the head clamps to the liner and usually a large gap (0.5mm or more) is seen between the head and cylinder body such that the head has no chance to bottom out on the cylinder body when the head bolts are tightened. However, usually the liner has flange at the top to increase the contact area between head a liner a bit. Whatever, I am sure you can adjust things to get a good head seal. Good video thanks.

• 
  @alanshomeworkshopАй бұрын

  Interesting, thanks for that info.

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  @gregsmachineshopАй бұрын

  This is a very good comment. On my last engine built I had the flange on the cylinder sleeve fit into a groove in the cylinder, then I flycut the top of the cylinder with the sleeve installed to create a uniform flat surface. The combustion chamber was a pocket in the cylinder head and a gasket covered a large area including the cylinder and the cylinder sleeve. My thinking on this engine was to have the groove in the cylinder head instead of the cylinder to make the path for the compressed ignition gasses longer. I agree with the commenter and your thinking that we need a gasket on only one of the two surfaces, the larger flat of the cylinder/cylinder head interface or just where the cylinder sleeve flange touches the cylinder head. The problem with the latter is that the area is quite small and a blow out would be more likely (I think). All of that said, I think the best course of action is the one you suggest; use a gasket fitted to the largest contact patch, the face of the cylinder rather than the face of the sleeve.

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  @carlhitchon1009Ай бұрын

  Nice work. Your a good problem solver.

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  @alanshomeworkshopАй бұрын

  Thanks for the compliments Carl. Cheers.

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  @paulrayner4514Ай бұрын

  fantastic job. everyday is a school day as they say. I concur with the other guy, use a brake cylinder hone and lots of WD.

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  @alanshomeworkshopАй бұрын

  Thanks Paul

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  @freon500Ай бұрын

  Thank you for sharing your shop tips and tricks, making the videos and posting them. They are very helpful to me.

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  @alanshomeworkshopАй бұрын

  Thanks William. It's rewarding to hear that my videos are helpful to others.

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  @dennythomas88872 ай бұрын

  "(paraphrasing) I'm an amateur and make mistakes, but half the fun correcting those mistakes" That is the perfect analogy of a hobby machinist. The Lnyx is coming along nicely Allen. On personal note, I've always found it easier to use a break cylinder hone than a diamond lap.

• 
  @alanshomeworkshop2 ай бұрын

  Cheers Denny. I might get better a surface finish if I had honing stones with a finer grit and will look into that. I didn't show it in the video, but I also gave the bore a polish with a buff and some sort of red compound that was included in a Dremel kit - that made a noticeable improvement. Thanks for watching.

• 
  @stephenwebb19782 ай бұрын

  Question Allen. As a hobby machinist, somehow, I know not to oil the tapershanks before using. However, just how clean should they be? Example, if I have a small film of oil on my hand and I wipe off the tapershank to remove any debris, would that have a detrimental effect on the tapershank holding still, or should I use a cleaning solvent to clean it every time? Thanks in advance.

• 
  @alanshomeworkshop2 ай бұрын

  Well, I'm a hobby machinist as well and can only comment based on my experience. I have no training or credentials to support my opinion and, for context, my hobby activities rarely generate any heavy machine or tool loads. The only time I have observed slippage in a MT shank is when I started using a 30mm twist drill with a 3MT shank. That occurred because I did not preload the the drill in the socket with an axial tap from a copper hammer. Now to your question Stephen, I wipe the MT shank before use with the "clean" rag currently in my pocket and then with a wiped (but unwashed) hand. When returning the tool to storage I apply some Inox MX3 (similar to WD40) to the shank. I probably should be more rigorous and disciplined about this, but that is my approach and it has worked for me - so far :) Thanks for watching.

• 
  @TangentJim2 ай бұрын

  Alan - Well Done . Two Thumbs Up . -- Jim

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  @alanshomeworkshop2 ай бұрын

  Thanks Jim - the project was made easier by your compound rest sine bar :) Cheers.

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  @acreations7992 ай бұрын

  What is the glue... Can you recommend a glue

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  @alanshomeworkshop2 ай бұрын

  Gorilla Super Glue: kzread.info/dash/bejne/fKeLzbKElMunZag.htmlsi=hyaG5zhFzD1RXzTc&t=212

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  @acreations7992 ай бұрын

  @@alanshomeworkshop I have to stick synthetic rubber (poly) belt. Is gorilla super glue suitable ?

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  @alanshomeworkshop2 ай бұрын

  @@acreations799 Sorry, I don't know. However, the glue is quite cheap so I suggest you make up a test piece and check it out on your material. Cheers.

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  @ToBeeOrNotToBeHoney2 ай бұрын

  Aluminum soda cans are super consistent on the thickness and make a reasonable insert for reducing marks on steel. For the copper you might have to skim a little off of them to make them consistent, similar to how people do for custom soft jaws. I would guess that the thickness of the copper is more variable AND that the bend is not as predictable. Cool project!

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  @alanshomeworkshop2 ай бұрын

  Thanks for the soda can tip - I'll give it a try. Cheers.

• 
  @rojer95422 ай бұрын

  I like how your tray sits under the saw in the angle iron frame, may have to steal that design.

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  @alanshomeworkshop2 ай бұрын

  Thanks Rojer. I have been using the saw with these modifications (see playlist) for nearly 2 years now and can report that they worked out really well. As the saying goes, you can't turn a pigs ear into a silk purse, but the mobile stand and recirculating coolant system have made the saw much easier to use and live with. Cheers.

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  @DavidR82 ай бұрын

  I've been following along Alan as I have grand ambitions of build a Webster. I hope to meet the high standard you've set!

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  @alanshomeworkshop2 ай бұрын

  The Webster design is quite forgiving and there are not many critical dimensions. It is also very modular - no multi-process pieces that can be spoiled after many hour of work :) I see you built a plasma cutter, so I am sure you'll be able to build a Webster. Good luck with that project David, and thanks for watching. Cheers.

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  @christophercullen12362 ай бұрын

  The new Max Grant nice work , your videos are still one of the clearest on KZread. Kit from up north

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  @alanshomeworkshop2 ай бұрын

  Thanks for the kind words Kit, and for your long standing support. Cheers.

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  @mk65952 ай бұрын

  Good to see some more progress over a cup of tea.

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  @alanshomeworkshop2 ай бұрын

  Thanks Mike - I was a bit worried that the extra video length would not be appreciated. Glad you enjoyed it.

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  @graedonmunro17932 ай бұрын

  G'day Alan, there was a lot of work in that! your boring head looks better than the piece of crap i have,,,, i noticed you have a lot of Vertex on your table. cheers

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  @alanshomeworkshop2 ай бұрын

  I was a bit surprised at how much time it took me to make the connecting rod - it looks like a fairly simple piece. I expect an experienced machinist would have found a better way to make it, but I needed many operations, non-trivial setups, lots of tool changes and repetitions. I heaved a sigh of relief when I finished it without messing up :) I have found Vertex gear to be of pretty good quality. It isn't cheap, but it is well made and generally offers consistent accuracy. That boring head is a joy to use. It can reliably cut to 0.01mm on the diameter - 0.005mm can even be finessed with care (and a bit of luck). It can also perform facing operations. The only issue I have had with Vertex gear has been the excessive runout of the MT3 socket in the rotary table. Thanks for watching Graedon.

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  @pault45132 ай бұрын

  Infrared temp guns have emissivity settings that change on shinny objects so that gun may not be accurate for that part Temp chalk would be more accurate

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  @alanshomeworkshop2 ай бұрын

  Thanks for pointing that out Paul. Can you recommend or suggest a suitable product ? (Just had a quick look at Tempilstiks and they seem quite expensive ~A$50ea) Cheers.

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  @mk65952 ай бұрын

  Is that a carbide or HSS end mill?

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  @alanshomeworkshop2 ай бұрын

  The 6mm end mill is HSS. Thanks for watching.

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  @kennethsoderlind55782 ай бұрын

  😀👍Very nice !

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  @alanshomeworkshop2 ай бұрын

  Thank you Kenneth.