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Hi the STL file for the case for the controller in your GITHUB doesn't have the holes for USB, SDCard etc unlike the one in the video.
This installation direction is bad, since you're working against gravity. The spring is pushing up on the gantry, but the gantry's gravitational force is larger than the maximum spring force. If you have any possible real backlash because the Z axis is riding up occasionally due to say unevenness of wheels or rail surface, this installation direction will only exacerbate the issue slightly rather than help solve it.
my friend, where i can find the stl for this upgrade?
Description Updated ;)
@@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting thanks for your answer, greetings from Colombia
problem wirh talking?
merci pour cette vidéo
Thanks for guiding me through the upgrade. It was extremely helpful
Hi again and thank you for this great project instructions. I'm actually working on step motor configuration. Could you please copy & paste your configuration under dlc_cfg.txt file from MKS DLC 32 firmware? I have 2 issues with step motors: - Step motors only turn in one direction - Step motors jump steps; maybe caused by high speed configuration. Thank you again for all
Hi again! I've copied the configuration values from my dlc_cfg.txt file for the MKS DLC 32 firmware below. Hopefully, these settings can $0=6 $1=25 $2=0 $3=5 $4=0 $5=1 $6=0 $10=1 $11=0.010 $12=0.002 $13=0 $20=0 $21=1 $22=1 $23=5 $24=300.000 $25=1000.000 $26=250.000 $27=1.000 $28=1000.000 $30=1000.000 $31=0.000 $32=1 $50=0 $38=0 $40=1 $100=80.000 $101=80.000 $102=80.000 $103=100.000 $104=100.000 $105=100.000 $110=6000.000 $111=6000.000 $112=6000.000 $113=1000.000 $114=1000.000 $115=1000.000 $120=500.000 $121=500.000 $122=500.000 $123=200.000 $124=200.000 $125=200.000 $130=450.000 $131=450.000 $132=50.000 $133=300.000 $134=300.000 $135=300.000 Regarding your issues with the step motors: Step motors only turn in one direction: This might be due to the direction invert mask setting ($3). In my configuration, it is set to 5. Make sure that matches your hardware setup. Step motors jump steps: This could be related to high speed settings. You might want to try lowering the maximum rate ($110, $111, $112) and acceleration ($120, $121, $122) settings to see if that stabilizes the movement. Feel free to adjust these settings and see if they help with your issues. Let me know if you need any more assistance! Best of luck with your project!
Could you also please note what power supply are you using for board and Nesa 17 motors? Watts and amperes 😊
@@Kerchack Choosing the right power supply depends on the specific components of your setup, particularly the laser diode. The MKS DLC 32 can support up to a 20W laser diode, which at 12V would require around 1.67A (20W / 12V ≈ 1.67A). For the Nema 17 stepper motors, the power usage can vary, but assuming each motor uses around 4.8W, and you have 5 of them, you would need approximately 2A (5 motors * 4.8W / 12V ≈ 2A). In total, for the laser diode and the stepper motors, you would need a power supply that can provide at least 3.67A (1.67A for the laser diode + 2A for the stepper motors). However, to be on the safe side, I would recommend using a power supply with a minimum of 5A to ensure stable operation and to account for any additional power needs. Personally, I am using an overkill 12V 30A power supply. This power supply not only powers my laser engraver but also two 20W LED lamps under my desk. If my calculations are correct, this setup should be more than sufficient for your needs. Please feel free to correct me if I've missed anything or if you have any further questions!
@@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting Thank you so much! I've got another question for you. I'm still having issues with step motors but I think it is related to board micro-step settings. For a TMC2209 driver what is the switch configuration for M0 - M1... Thank you in advance.
My next upgrade. Done dual z a couple of weeks ago :-)
Do I need the display to test this or can I control it with a laptop?
If you are using makerbase FIRMWARE you need to have the display but if you install FIRMWARE you dont need to have the display ;)
@@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting I installed Open Builds Control software and it immediately recognized the card and allowed me to control it with my laptop. I never hooked up a dosplay to the board.
Could you put a link to where you are getting your printed parts or what parts you are printing? I'm not good a making my own models, yet.
Where can you get the stl that holds the timing belt? Thank you for sharing this great project.
if you are asking about "Belt Tensioner" the link it is in the description ;)
@@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting yeah, that's it! Thank you!
hey thanks for the videos! I've been using them to help me upgrade my Neptune X and Im about to do this mod, question however, do you have a video or link for the fan wiring harness? I assume you basically made one that can take 3 fan inputs and plug into one header
Thanks for reaching out, and I'm glad to hear that the videos have been helpful for your Neptune X upgrade journey! As for the fan wiring harness, while I don't have a separate video or link for it, I did include some explanations starting from around the 3:00-minute mark in the video. Hopefully, that gives you some insight into how to create one. If you need any more assistance or clarification, just let me know-I'm here to help! ;)
@@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting Thank you so much! Ok I can def do this harness, i was skimming to the bl touch setup which is why i missed it. What gauge wire are you using?
I used 22 AWG 2-pin wire, which I happened to have on hand. :)
Great video. Might try this upgrade to my 2s looking forward to follow up video.
i'm liking this too for mine!
kzread.info/dash/bejne/i6Fo06mros-qgdo.htmlsi=IYyLDovSuZVu_5iP
Здравствуйте, поделитесь пожалуйста файлами для печати, тоже хочу собрать такой гравёр
Links are in the description ;)
Amazing design. I'll try to build one for myself. Thank you for sharing this project
thanks
dadash . let us know how to calibrate the axis. you didnt mentioned it in the video. could you please tell me your phone number so i need to ask some questions.
Which type of supply you have used for the mks dlc. Please can you tell me about that
In this video, for my testing, I used a 12V 3A power supply. However, for regular usage, I require a 12V 30A power supply, which is overkill. I need to mention that I am using this power supply to light two 20W lamps. ;)
Can't get this to work for the life of me. I get all the way to the end, but the wifi screen on the Neptune always shows "TP-LINK_MKS" as the Wifi network, and STA disconnected as the status. Cannot get it to work. I'm using the bigtreetech mks module which for some reason has the colored connector rails reversed, but I assumed that BTT is wrong, so I based my connection on orienting the onboard chip correctly.... I have another chip brand coming tomorrow. Hopefully that's the issue. Frustrating.
I am thinking of building this to replace my "3018 CNC" based laser - out of interest what is the maximum speed you are getting, i.e. your $110 and $111 settings? Thanks
I'm using cheap bimetal heatbreak for a few weeks with enclosed printer (ikea lack enclosure). It works great as long as I keep the front acrylic door of my enclosure open. Once I closed the door, I get heat creap in less than 5 minutes, end print will fail. That is with Petg. Abs works incredibly well, specially if door is closed, but I don't like the fumes. Do you have any idea for fan (or fan mount) upgrade, for better cooling of the heatsink?
Your observation makes a lot of sense! When the temperature increases inside the enclosure, it affects the heat sink's performance by reducing its ability to dissipate heat due to the warm airflow. This, in turn, causes heat creep up to the heat break, leading to print failures. In the meantime, I'd suggest adjusting the retraction settings from 5mm to 2mm, especially if you have a direct drive setup. This might help alleviate some of the heat creep issues.😊
@@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting yes, I'll do more experiments now with the retractions settings. I just printed something in vase/spiral mode with 2mm retraction, and for first time I got big filament blobs/bubles at random spots of the print. Maybe it was due to something else. I really messed up my retraction settings, I though I was using 2mm all the time, but it was set on 5mm last time I checked, so now I'll have to experiment. I'm still using bowden setup. Thanks again, I really appreciate your answer.
Khodaaaaaa
Hello friend🎉 Can this machine cut mdf and acrylic or it just for engraving?
Hello! The machine's capability to cut through MDF and acrylic depends on the laser head used. Higher power laser heads can cut through thicker materials. For instance, a 10W laser head can cut an 8mm MDF with 2-3 passes, while a 40W laser head can typically cut it in a single pass.
@@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting thanks bro I like your channel you're the best❤
Is this bord suitable for 90 watt laser module??
Most likely, you can use the MKS-DLC32 board for a 90-watt laser module, but it requires an external power supply and a daughter board in between. It's important to note that this board supports up to 20W, so for the 90W laser, you'll need an additional power board. Please be aware that the wattage mentioned refers to the input power, not the actual power output from the laser head.
Where do you order the hardware to do this?
I made the purchase on Amazon, but you may also check AliExpress for the same item.
Hello. What power supply did you use for 3 step motors and a 3 amp laser?? How many amperes was the power supply?
For initial tests, I used a 12V 3A power supply. However, for extended use, I upgraded to a 12V 30A power supply. It might be an overkill, as a 10A supply is sufficient for the 20W consumption of the laser head.
looking forward to your moded files what would estimate the cost of this unit be , would it be upgradable to 20W or more? also have you seen any project with CNC laser and perhaps 3d printer all in one.. since they all use the same frame and motor and just need different heads for CNC, laser or 3d extruder
Thank you for your interest! I'm currently working on providing modified files. As for the cost estimation, I'll include that in my upcoming video. I've successfully tested 20W and 40W laser heads on this unit. However, to control a laser head with power exceeding 20W, a daughter board and an external power supply are required. Your suggestion about attaching a CNC head (spindle) is excellent, but it would involve some modifications. The current version lacks the ability to move the head up and down, a crucial feature for CNC. Additionally, the firmware would need adjustment to accommodate the different functionalities.
@@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting the ultimate machine would have the 3D printer, CNC and 40w laser all in one.. the 40W laser is exciting looking forward to your next video
Thanks! This has been helpful.
very interesting, thanks for well explained video
❤❤
I performed this upgrade, however my printer is not properly utilzing the Z Offset. I perform the leveling, it goes to the center and I adjust the Z Offset (to barely allow the paper to pass between the printhead and the heatbed. I then load a test print and it is obvious the Z Offset adjustment is NOT applied as the printhead is scratching the heatbed. Any ideas?
Hello! It seems like there might be a discrepancy in the Z Offset adjustment. To address this, manually adding up to 0.2mm to the current offset. This should bring the nozzle up to the correct level. Sometimes, issues like this can arise as the Z Offset distance matures or changes over time. Give this adjustment a try, and it should help prevent the printhead from scratching the heatbed during your prints. If the problem persists, consider recalibrating or checking for any other factors that might be affecting the Z Offset. Hope this helps!
Did you find a solution, I have the same problem but in the opposite direction, mine doesn't touch the bed on the first layer and just slightly hovers above the bed. Seems like some sort of bug, I am planning to re flash the firmware I just need an SD card
How to connect a camera with the printer?
Unfortunately, the Elegoo Neptune2S does not have the capability to directly connect to a camera. However, you can utilize external sources such as a Raspberry Pi or other cameras specifically designed for this purpose. Stay tuned, as I may create a video tutorial on how to set up this connection!
Can you tell anything about results you had with it? Have you tried Petg?
Absolutely! The bi-metal heatbreak was a game-changer for me-it's a must-have upgrade. As for PETG, no issues at all; I've been consistently getting great results with it.
@@UnlimitedIdeas3dprintingthanks, I'm gratefull that you replied. You convinced me, I will order one tommorow. I'm reading reddit and various sources, but couldn't get the answers I was looking for. Do you use something like Slice Engineering or more generic type of bimetal heatbreak? Sorry if I missed that in your video. You think it could work well with a hardened steel nozzle for petg? Thanks again, and sorry for too many questions.
@@ww4102 No problem at all! I personally use a generic bi-metal heatbreak and haven't faced any issues. While Slice Engineering is known for high-quality products, a generic one has worked well for me. And yes, a hardened steel nozzle is a great choice, offering longevity. Although PETG isn't highly abrasive, the hardened steel nozzle adds extra durability to your setup.
@@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting I couldn't find those answers anywhere. I believe most of the negative opinions about bimetal heatbreaks are user error, but you're showing how to do it right. Your videos are reliable source of information, instead of being some entertaining bullshit.
Any idea on how to use this board along with VFD /1.5 kw spindle . Thanks
Thank you for your comment! While I don't have direct experience with a spindle as powerful as 1.5 kW, I can offer some general guidance. The MKS DLC32 board should be able to handle a spindle of that size. Typically, machines with such powerful spindles have an external stepper motor driver to control the spindle. You may consider replacing the existing control board with the MKS DLC32, ensuring compatibility with the external stepper motor driver. However, it's crucial to consult the documentation of both the MKS DLC32 board and your spindle to ensure proper integration. If possible, reaching out to the manufacturers or online forums specializing in CNC machines might provide more specific insights from users with similar setups. Best of luck with your project!
Now, I would like to see a video about some longer term testing various shapes and sizes, with other materials like abs or petg. It would make it easier to judge if this upgrade has more advantages than flaws. Thanks for your tests so far
Very interesting, I need to save this video in case I want to try this direct drive mod. Thanks for the video.
where are the stp files you modified ?
finally I find some times to have more adjustments, shortly I am going to release my changes ;)
great video - straight to the point. simple and easy to follow. there is one thing I could not find in the files. the small red spacers. do you know how big they need to be?
Thank you for the feedback! I'm glad you found the video helpful. Regarding the small red spacers, they should be the '05 V-Wheel Bushing v1,' and you can locate the file in the MokeyLaser_v1.1 directory
I found it in the end. My brain was working properly. @@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting
باید محتوای یک ایرانی رو به زبان فارسی ترجمه کنیم تا متوجه بشیم 😆
Can u give stl file of all 3d printed parts
You can find the original GitHub link in the description; however, I have made some improvements in certain parts, and I will be sharing them with you very soon.
@@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting Is there a full materials list?
Is it can cut the sheet too??
Cutting through material depends on the laser head we are using and its power
Great video, just what I need right now
داداش تو ایرانی نیستی؟؟؟
Hi, can you share the link and part number where you purchased it? can you also share the configure file? or where I can download it?
Hi, You can find the module in Amazon or Aliexpress look for "MKS Robin WIFI module V1.1" it has green pin header, if you follow the video and still you have issue please let me know
Hi can i use this to upgrade my desktop laser to standalone? Is it a gbrl ready board? Thank you
The MKS-DLC32 is an offline engraving master control kit developed for desktop engraving machines. The hardware is equipped with a 32-bit high-speed ESP32 module, integrated WIFI function, and it is supporting GRBL, usually board is coming with CNC firmware you need to update it
the MKS DLC32 is capable of running standalone. You can copy GRBL files to the microSD card for engraving.
Can you help set up my SLC32 v2 .1 ???
I just bought doc32 v2.1....I don't know how to configure my machine size...pls can you help
To update the machine size on your MKS DLC32 board for your laser engraver while considering limit switches, follow these steps: Open the 'dlc_cfg.txt' file. Locate the parameters for X-axis ($130) and Y-axis ($131) maximum travel. Set these values to your desired size, e.g., $130=300.000 and $131=300.000. Ensure your limit switch positions are also adjusted to match the new machine size. Save the 'dlc_cfg.txt' file. Copy the updated file to the root directory of an SD card. Insert the SD card into the MKS DLC32 board. Alternatively, you can also update these values using laserGRBL or the firmware webpage interface, while verifying limit switch settings. Always consider your limit switch positions to prevent any potential collisions and ensure safe engraving. After updating, your laser engraver should reflect the new machine size. Remember to double-check your values and limit switch configurations for accuracy.
@@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting thanks....I will try and come back with feedback...
@@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting for example, $ 130=300.000 Where's the 300.000 measured from...is it from the center of the axis ( I mean , if my overall x-axis work area is 1000mm, the $130=500.000, and the limit switch should be placed in such a way that at this 500.000....the physical part of the moving x-axis should activate the switch) this what I understand by your reply....please correct me if my understanding is wrong...thanks
Based on what I know, Your understanding is correct! The value you set for parameters like $130 or $131 in the configuration file corresponds to the maximum travel distance of the axis. This value is typically measured from the origin (usually one end of the axis) to the point where the axis should stop moving. In your example, if your overall X-axis work area is 1000mm, setting $130=500.000 would mean that the X-axis will travel up to 500mm from its origin point. This aligns with your interpretation. The limit switch should indeed be placed in such a way that when the physical part of the moving X-axis reaches the position of 500mm, it activates the switch, signaling the controller to stop further movement in that direction. Always ensure that your limit switch placements match the values you set in the configuration file to prevent collisions and ensure safe operation.
@@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting thanks.....feedback later