Welcome to Simon's utak. This is a channel for lovers of cameras, lenses and camera gear. It should be of particular interest to amateur and professional photographers who enjoy using film era lenses on modern digital DSLR cameras.
My name is Simon, but why utak? Because in some languages utak means "brain". To me, the camera/lens is like a brain for artistic endeavours.
The content is based on my film and digital photography experience over four decades using a wide range of lenses - including Carl Zeiss Jena, Takumar, Yashica, Tomioka, Helios, Pentagon, Fujinon, Pentax, Leitz and Meyer-Optik Gorlitz.
My photos on Flickr have attracted over 12 million views, here: www.flickr.com/photos/95859572@N06/albums.
If you'd like to donate to my channel, there's a link below.
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It's an addiction sure, but by this point, it's either GAS or snorting Thorium glass powder.
We did you get the geiger counter?
I bought it on Amazon.
Is this Jena Flektogon 35mm 2.4 Radioactive? Camerapedia only have Auto Not Radioactive. I see no other forum or video talking if it is radioactive. I see 3 Variant of this No Electric Text in Front (This Video) before the MC - MC Flektogon 2.4/35 The one with Electric text before the MC in the Front - Electric MC Flektogon 2.4/35 And Auto after the end of Flecktagon Text in the Front - Flektogon 2.4/35 Auto
The one in this video is not radioactive. Not sure about the others.
Ty for the response @@Simonsutak I was planning to buy this if not radioactive
Would the ones that are more radioactive fog film?
I've not tried it, but I believe that if you left the lens in front of film it might slightly yellow the film directly behind the lens - in the same way that it can yellow white paper.
Excellent test!
Thank you for enlightening us. It's wonderfull when someone can express their experience and knowledge so succintly and clearly, on something both technically complex and subjective.
Fantastic work. It is a shame that you don't include cameras used in professional and art photography. Popular photography certainly drives the market and a great deal of innovation, but I feel that there's really a major part of the story missing by omitting those parts of the puzzle.
@Simonsutak can you make a video comparing the SMC takumar and the super takumar 35mm f/3.5 lenses? would be greatly appreciated!
Hi Simon is the Canon FD 50mm f/1.4 S.S.C. Radioactive? One result on google from forum Denied it. Camerapedia have NO Record of it. Could you test it and make a Video?
I'm sorry, I don't know. Do you own this lens? I do need to choose a Canon fast fifty to buy/try - maybe this should be the one. (I was also thinking about an early f1.2, which I think is radioactive).
Late to the party, but is there a way to ACCELERATE the yellowing of radioactive lenses, and are there adverse effects to doing so? Like, it won't go critical or anything right? like i mean I'm single and all but like haha don't wanna diejustyethaha. Acquired a Canon FL 58/1.2 in super good condition and have been having alot of fun with it, but would love to have more of the vintage golden tint. Without dying of course. Haha.
I don't know how to accelerate the yellowing. But, like vampires, radioactive glass doesn't like light, especially UV light, so I'd keep the lens in the dark/a dark case.
@@Simonsutak Thanks for the reply. Been shoving it right at the edges of the sun for those lovely flares, kinda seem like I'm running on limited ammunition at this point. Hope mine won't lose the tint.
This is cool, unusual, and informative! I hope this gets a lot of views. So here is my long comment for it 👍
Thank you!
How would you compare it to the RE Auto Topcor 58mm f1.8 ?
Good question! I haven't used the Auto Topcor f1.8 long enough to give you an informed answer. But, purely in terms of using the lenses, I prefer the Topcor - it's a lovely lens to use and look at. And from the few photos I've taken, the results are excellent. I will post a review of the Topcor 1.8, and the Topcor f1.4 sometime in the future, once I've taken many more photos with these lenses.
@@Simonsutak I love my Topcor lenses , I have some of the cheaper UV Topcor lenses too . Looking forward to when you get chance to review the RE lenses .
I do enjoy your intelligent and well-researched videos, and there is an unexpected bonus - we live in the same neighbourhood. It's fun trying to identify your exact shooting position when taking your pictures. And the fact that you like Pentax gear shows you have excellent taste.
Thank you! So you haven't spotted me yet around Chiswick House and gardens?!
@@Simonsutak Not yet, but I shall keep an eye out for a man with a Takumar. I might even take one of mine on my K1.
For me, the Pentax Super A was the best-looking SLR ever made. It was also very functional.
A lot of the “digital optimisation “ debate is about diffraction limitations. It’s all misunderstood crap in my opinion. High quality modern lenses are simply more precise and better. But a good quality old lens will be good! Film look etc are statements made by people who don’t understand how to process a raw file. Use your old lens if it makes you happy.
Great video. I have all versions too. I bought that lamp on your recommendation and successfully deyellowed my SMC. Wow, what a difference!! It's by far the best lens (objectively) out of the bunch. It's more like a Zeiss lens now. The downside is it doesn't have as much character. The yellowed glass evidently affects a lot more than light transmission. My 8 elements version is still my favourite because it is special, but all versions are great. My recommendation would be to buy whichever good condition Takumar is cheapest.
Hello. I have a Helios-44M 2/58 that is extremely soft at all f-stops. The glass looks clean to me, so I was thinking of taking it apart to see if there was any obvious problem internally. Do you have experience with remedying this issue?
I don't have experience of this issue. These lenses are not very hard to take apart, and hopefully you'll find one of the elements is out of place or turned around. Good luck!
@@Simonsutak Thank you. Others have suggested that the front element is reversed, which looks like it may be the case. I plan to get the tools to try re-reversing it.
Are all Auto Takumar Radioactive? I see no information in the web
To my knowledge - none of the Auto-Takumars are radioactive. The radioactive lenses started with later version Super-Takumars and then Super-Multi-Coated Takumars. This is the best source of information on radioactive Takmars: camerapedia.fandom.com/wiki/Radioactive_lenses
Amazing video! Thank you for the extensive tests! 👌🏻
I recently acquired two strange lenses that I had never heard of, a Komura Sankyo Koki 135mm f2.8 in M42, with 15(!) blades, and a Sonagar 135mm f3.5 in Minolta mount with 10 blades. I got them both at a camera club sale, $5 for the Komura and $3 for the Sonagar. The Komura is a bokeh beast, while being very small and lightweight. I have really enjoyed shooting with this lens. It really does rival my Pentacon 135mm f2.8 (Auto MC version). The Sonagar is unremarkable, but it's the best $3 lens I own. I did notice that there seem to be quite a few Sankyo KOHKI lenses out there, but mine is spelled KOKI, which I find odd. I didn't know anything about it when I bought it, although I do own a Komura Komuranon 820 80-200 f4.5 zoom that performs very well, and I assume that the Sankyo Koki is a much older lens. it has been a joy to shoot with.
Best 100 and 105mm lens review. Just idea I really enjoy your videos. Thank you
Thank you! Excellent review. Glad to learn of the Gold effect options on the K-1. Really enjoy that look. Was considering this lens in comparison to the FA 50mm 1.7 and now understand that they are different enough from each other.
Bought mine new in Poland in 1976. Still going strong!
What about at night though?
So many of your observations had me nodding my head. One thing to add to the Flickr algorithm is it rewards frequent posting (365 projects for example). There is definitely a legacy glass fan base that lives there. Your contribution in the form of lens evaluation is adding value to that community.
I am a Contax/Yashica Shooter since 1990, and i must say, i really *dislike* that brightin star as brand is just cloning the Zeiss package box design hereby - it's very lame, and cheap, too.
Have you looked at the sun lately? Here in Madison, Wisconsin, and in other places around the United States the sun flare has been an octagon except it’s like a honeycomb? there’s been a lot of speculation and conspiracy theories about it and why the sun is so bright white and why there is always a constant haze and all of the storms in the Midwest. I just wanted to know if you have seen any honeycomb flares. They can easily be picked up by phones.
Great review! Everything you need to know, thank you. I bought the original smc FA 50mm f1.4 this morning for my K5iis. Coming from Fuji, I am enjoying the SLR experience again, but it is jarring to be so sensitive at the wider end for softness, as my modern lenses are simply… sharp. However, I am trying to stretch myself and embrace the soft, as I’m a bit over the optical perfection that is synonymous with current lenses, causing people to spend more on diffusion filters than my lens cost me. I have found in my testing so far that a slight back focus can masquerade as softness, and that when focus is good, the lens is plenty sharp enough.
Didn’t Leica license this lens to Minolta in return for being allowed to use the Rokkor 35-70mm design for the R System?
Thanks. Many years ago I was thinking about buying one of these.When it was still on the market. I always been sorry I didn't.
I love the jokes and the abundance of sample photos!
Hi Simon, Excellent review. So, using it on a FF camera would give you say a ~40mm equivalent view with the darkened corners nipped off?
Yes, I haven’t an accurate mathematical figure for the amount lost due to the darkened corners, but a 40mm equivalent view sounds about right if you take a FF photo.
If this lens is attached to a mirrorless camera, is the camera still mirrorless? 🤔
Neat video, I'm interested in this lens. I don't mind the donut out of focus areas, kinda like it. The zombie look is something to explore for sure. I have a Russian MTO 500/8 lens I enjoy using for astro on my Olympus cameras.
Quality and quantity... Top review, again..👍🙏👌
Interesting video. I owned a 500mm f/8 reflex lens from Nikon for quite some years. Manual focusing of long lenses with a DSLR was/is a pain in the back, for moving objects it's not what you want. For "static" images (landscape, architecture) it's a good alternative to non-reflex lens because of its low weight.
Akin to the question 'what makes a great roast dinner'... Always subjective. But your videos are the only ones IMHO that present Bokeh and vintage and some modern lenses as artistic tools.. and focus on that as opposed to technicals and charts... thanks, very refreshing and informative..🙏🙏🙏
One great thing for Pentax is, their body can adapt well with their history legacy lens, I still enjoy with takumar lens on my K1 today, the time gap between takumar lens & K1 body are almost 50 years.
Hey Simon. I've just picked up a Pancolar 50mm 1.8. Can I ask if you set the aperture blade to 1.8 and slightly depress the pin does the aperture slightly close down ? Thank you in advance
Hi. No my lens doesn’t do that - the blades stay wide open.
The Meyer-Optik Gorlitz Primotar 135mm F3.5 It reminds me a lot of the characteristics of my Rokkor _TC 135mm F4, both in the physical appearance and in the number of blades and especially the character and colors that I get with it on my A7III. It's strange, the aperture ring is like in Olympus lenses at the end of the barrel, I don't know of another Rokkor lenses like that.
Hi Simon, many thanks for this review! Try the Novoflex chest and shoulder pod or similar. It helps a great deal making photography more convenient with less missed shots. Magnificient images!! Best wishes, Ralf
Yeah, its great for global edits, but garbage for local. The control points and there lack of sharp precise control just isn't enough to be a one stop shop for B&W, unless of course the basics are all that is required, and sometimes that is the case.
I have this version in perfect condition and a Zebra 2.8 that needed a service. The Zebra feels much older and is actually 3.8/4 at 18cm focus. Worth remembering. I've used a lot of Takumar and Cosina Tomioka and Pentacon glass, the MC Flektogon is always my go-to lens. I even prefer my Tessar over some of my Takumar 1.4. Not necessarily because they are better, but have much more character. I love the feel of the Zebra over the MC but it just does not deliver to the high standard I always get from it. Are they worth the hype? Yes.
I have the Japanese version of the Tair 11-2 ......... Tokyo Koki Tele-Tokina 135mm f2.8 (15 blades). It cost me £12.50 ! This lens goes back to the early 60's. The Tokyo Koki name was dropped from the lenses in 1971. I also have a 'cousin' of the Tele-Tokina which was launched in 1960 and marketed by Hanimex - the Tele-Lens 100mm f4 Triplet bought as part of a bundle with Exakta RTL1000, MOG Oreston 50mm f1.8 & Unitor 35mm f2.8 for the exorbitant total of £50 !
I like the donuts, they make the background appear almost painted on, with a realistic subject superimposed on top of it, and I didn't know what a reflex lens was, the more you know!
Your city examples are very convincing arguments for this lens - thanks for sharing
5:45 sorry, the focus is not correct here 😤😤
Great video
My experience in dissaembling, fixing and cleaning the 1.8s is their are many different variations in how the aperture selection in particular is achieved, and most are very finicky and over engineered. One makes use of a sheathed tension cable to transfer the stop down pin to the blades which is the only time I've seen this (early non radioactive aus jena marking), very different from the pancolar non radioactive marked zebra 1.8, grease is a big problem as well as a brittle pin bracket fort he stopdown paddle
great review, thanks!