I'm an automotive enthusiast with a penchant for BMW's. I work in the automotive industry. This channel is dedicated to my projects as well as my own development. I'll have plenty of videos and content surrounding project cars and other things related to cars.
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Thanks for posting this! Learned a lot and definitely put me on the right track to repair the threads on my ‘07 Yaris Axle - very much appreciated Sir!
This was great help . Thank you
gonna do this to my barra
Wtf my 1 brain cell is trying to figure out how to do it 😂💀💀
Dog please let me buy that front install tool lol I'll send it back 😅
I may need a similar Die for my 09 ml350 w164, not sure if this works! any tips or idea ? great video man!!
The foam is there to prevent explosions..
Pro tip for those that haven’t done this yet. To get the factory sunroof seal to come off without having to scrape is use a heat gun on the whole seal or as you go and it all comes off like a charm. Removes clean as a whistle
Perfect and thorough demonstration, bro's a chad. Thanks man
Could the speed sendor also not put on active cruise control?? Cruise vontrol failes while driving but if i press brakes it does turn on and there is no fault codes
Thank you, Sir!
Anyone really interested in doing things right: This is a BAD idea accompanied with wrong information. First of all, safety wire strength has nothing to do with the number of twists or wraps (depending on your terminology). It’s an FAA regulation with the strength and durability factors already pre-determined. Too many wire wraps will actually decrease the strength, and increase the chance of failure. Secondly, in this case everytime the engine is started or revved, the applied torque due to the increase and then decrease of throttle will eventually take its toll, and the wire will shear at the timing gear, or the bolt hole that you may have forgotten to deburr. Either way, this can lead to a very expensive lesson, and is most definitely, bad advise. If not licensed or trained in aviation via the military you might not have known. Now your Patreons have an advantage.
Fortunately for the aviation world I'm not responsible for keeping airplanes in the sky. What I am responsible for is keeping the oil pump sprocket retaining nut in place which in turn keeps my engine from killing itself. It's been 4+ years and it's still there, along with the safety wire.
Thanks a ton for this, saved my butt at work today 🎉
My cams havent moved since i took the head off. But the cam locks dont line up perfectly with the the edge if the head? Is that what determiens they are perfectly at top dead centre? The holes in the cam sqaures are up and the lobes on cylinder 1 are pinting towards each other although not perfectly but towards each other no less
Do you know the reason for these sensors to fail, even the original Ate ones that came with the vehicle? And seems that everybody replaces sensors every year/ every 2 years or randomly. Why?
Very clear explaining. Thank you.
Just curious, if the cap says 15 PSI max when PRESSURE testing for leaks, would u also recommend not exceeding that psi on cap when vacuum filling for fear of damaging plastic reservoir tanks from "collapsing" when drawing a vacuum?
What course petrol to enter the engine oil
Thanks
can u re-upload the video for better quality?
Its always great when a video from 4 years ago comes in clutch when u need a hand when things go wrong
I love you
Great video. I can't even get mine started. First 1-2mm compromised. I was thinking a.file, b.hacksaw Thoughts? Thanks.
will this tool work with a cheap 6 gallon pancake air compressor?
How much weight did you save?
I can’t agree more with above commenter. This is the first of the series I’ve seen but is very detailed and helpful for those of us doing it for the first time. Thank you :)
The throw you have it adjusted to is perfect, exactly what I’m looking for myself, it’s direct, no slop and perfect amount of throw to time your shifts with your clutch
Mother ... :( I did the same thing today but oh well! I guess this is how you learn, Bought some large dies and will fix like you did thanks for the video!
Awesome video! The same happened to me today as I was trying to push back the shaft and get the hub and bearing out on my E70 X5. Can you tell me which size die it’ll be for the X5? Thanks!
just took mine out thank you was starting sweat it lol my air hammer just wasnt cutting it
Perfect. Thank you for not going on and on and on before you performed the task. Excellent video Sir!
I have that same problem rn bro, 🙄
Same here!
A New nut, a chaser die nut & cutting fluid almost $50 bucks! I could have got a new axle for $54!
I also forgot to mention, cars are a pain in the ass. Just to put it nicely.
Are they all right hand threads?
Does anyone know what that small rubber piece is for? I cant seem to find anything about it and it doesn't seem to fit anything
Great video; thanks Gareth !!!!!
How do you do it without the axle spinning
Both nuts spinning for me, stud not moving at all. 😢
Chase the threads first
Question: Can I use the dye to replace a stripped nut...particularly if the threads are not aggressive enough on the replacement nut, and the axel although repaired, still has shallow threads.
you actually need to follow the PSI on the cap, recommend by the manufacturer, but other than that, I like the vid
Yes, correct if you were performing a pressure test on a cooling shstem. But this tool pulls a vacuum to help prevent air locks with the system is refilled.
Other than genuine what other Abs sensor can be used on bmw 528i x drive
Anyone you can get from FCP EURO they literally cost a few dollars.
This was super helpful thank you so much
Saves me £40 on buying a special tool!
I watched this video...then immediately hit the "Subscribe" button..
I made the same mistake in my M37X
Could I install that Hydraulic Chain Tensioner in my M50TU? If so, do you have a part number for reference?
you're a god
Thanks dude, appreciate the info. I just had this issue today, will troubleshoot tomorrow. I hooked up bimmer geek protool to diagnose and the front left wheel was not registering speed or direction. In my car the side effect was weird. I was driving my car to a store, I slowed down to make a right hand turn at slow speed and my ABS started pulsing. I guess because the front left wheel read no speed the ABS system thought my right hand turn caused my left wheel to loose traction completely. I suppose that makes sense. Just took it for another test drive and sure enough right hand turns are causing ABS to kick in. I will swap the sensors like you suggested because no point ordering a new part if that part isn't the issue. Simple enough to verify by swapping left and right. Regarding a scope. I bought a portable, battery operated scope off amazon for $100. It's pretty basic in function but I've used that in the past to verify whether or not my can bus wires were getting signal at all when trying to diagnose some after market retrofits. Also it's sometimes hard to know which wire is can-high and can-low, a scope helps figure that out too since the waves are inverted for high and low.
the wheel bearing tool is a life saver thank you!!
Heh heh heh heh… Hey Beavis, he said “take two nuts and jam them together…” heh heh heh heh
i have a front left abs sensor NOT reading any values at all when i move the car. is this possibly due to oepn circuit? or simply bad sensor. the sensor was replaced with original BMW ATE by dealer. and i cannot believe it is now faulty as it is hardly 12000 km of use. less than 2 years. I am thinking of using a good rear ABS sensor for the front. are the front and read sensors same other than lengths? If this does not solve the problem, is it possible that ABS fuse is faulty? not sure if there is a fuse for each sensor.