Пікірлер

• 
  @emiregricesu594216 күн бұрын

  so cool

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  @kennethstensrud669Ай бұрын

  It's not only the thread, but also the needle. If you use a jeans/denim needle, you should use a heavier/ stronger thread.

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  @charlesfreeman-core3525Ай бұрын

  Hi LarpWright - very interesting - but you miss out telling us something important: what is the weight of the finished product compared to the starting product (the canvas without the proofing)? This is obviously important for anyone wishing to use a canvas tarp for backpacking. I calculate from what you do tell us (and assuming all the white spirit/mineral alcohol evaporates off) that you end up with a weight that is roughly twice what you began with. But it would be nice if you could confirm this. (Commercial canvas oilskins seem to be able to get away with a finished product roughly one and a half times the starting weight of canvas, but it is not likely that a DIY product can compete with that.)

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  @michalurbanfulАй бұрын

  Nice guide, thanks! :)

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  @neoaliphant2 ай бұрын

  very interesting video as my ranger chatracter im researching currently has ruana, shortbow, tomahawk + knife dual wield..and a pack goat carring tarp and a thick blanket.....one thing you didnt show was any cooking vessels....

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  @mauriceupp93812 ай бұрын

  Would you not simply lay the two fabrics together so the edge fold it over and sew it a second time that way you don't have to push all that fabric through the inside of your sewing machine

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  @AzraelThanatos2 ай бұрын

  As a suggestion for this kind of thing, grab some strips or leather and stitch them around the ropes to make an easier place to hold onto that isn't going to damage your hands in the process of hauling it around, ropes can do some damage if things shift on you

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  @ninajager.-.-2 ай бұрын

  I‘ be done one with lineseedoil…beeswax…..orangeoil….pinetreetar (10:6:4:1). Without any non natural ingredients.

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  @caminodantoo2 ай бұрын

  Larpwright, you’ve got me thinking, you’re almost relying on a single application, rather than multiple applications. Maybe your 2/1 oil wax preparation should have been a base layer. Also, did you shrink your clothe before treatment?

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  @romar15812 ай бұрын

  Use boiled linseedoil (Leinöfirnis) and beeswax melted together in a 1:1 ratio. Bring it to the required consistency with mineral spirits ( Waschbenzin) or paint thinner. Apply with a broad brush, like the one used to apply paste to wallpaper. Hang to dry for at least two weeks or until the smell of linseedoil dissipates. Beeswax can be obtained from beekeepers quite cheaply, but must be cleaned by boiling it with water and scraping off the grime from the underside of the solidified wax. Refined beeswax is quite costly. Boiled linseedoil is sold in home improvement stores.

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  @romar15812 ай бұрын

  This recipe comes from a 19th century manual, the only difference is the mineral spirits which replaces the oil of turpentine in the original. You can also add pigments like lampblack, iron oxide pigments ranging from ochre over brick-red to brown or a mix of ochre and lampblack 97% + 3% for olive.

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  @caminodantoo2 ай бұрын

  Isn’t that the difference when dealing with the waxy feel. That turps breaks down the waxy feel, whereas, mineral spirit and isopropyl alcohol, help to apply the wax oil mixture before evaporating.

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  @barbybushcraftskills3 ай бұрын

  show! Farei um assim também. Parabéns e boas vibrações

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  @ucaree.3 ай бұрын

  hope you're doing well

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  @ricdonato43284 ай бұрын

  It is often suggested first washing the cloth in hot water, allow to dry. This will cause the hot wet fabric to swell closing gaps in the weave. When it is dry it will have a tighter weave helping with water proofing of choice. Using wax may not be a good choice, one reason is when cold it will crack and sluff off exposing the cloth. For that reason they originally used whale/fish oil and linseed oil on the cloth, as in the name Oilcloth or Oilskin. Yes, one can use wax such as paraffin, however it should always be melted into the fabric, still when cool or cold waxed cotton is more stiff than Oilcloth and Oilskin, and less breathable.

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  @pandemonicpixie5 ай бұрын

  I liked watching this and the ruana cloak build. It makes me miss larping and cobbling together outfit designs.

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  @screenem36725 ай бұрын

  This is literally perfect, thank you so much ❤

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  @bricks28505 ай бұрын

  Great vid, very useful project but absolutely dreadful music! - Thanks

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  @jillvecore39845 ай бұрын

  Thanks so much for your video. It was very helpful.

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  @Dakota-ro4wy5 ай бұрын

  Is it stab proof though

• 
  @clairbear79195 ай бұрын

  This is exactly the type of cloak i have been looking for i couldnt work out how to get the style of putting it over the shoulder with other cloaks! Did you manage to attach a hood like you mentioned could you tell us how you did it

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  @larpwright5 ай бұрын

  I made a hood, but stand alone, as that gives more flexibility. I put on the hood, and throw the cloak over it. kzread.info/dash/bejne/dJuHtruPYLK0mNo.htmlsi=wqFR6Cobloe0PT4t

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  @hewolfshamanic6 ай бұрын

  thanks very much for this my friend. 'im making the new Zorro serie from prime cape, and its exactly like that.

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  @AgentWashington286 ай бұрын

  This whole channel is a hidden gem

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  @davidvaughn77526 ай бұрын

  Thank you! I just got a Hudson Bay wool blanket which is huge and perfect for this kind of rucksack. I like this geometry better than others I've used. I found that rope digs into my shoulders after hiking for a while, since I'm in to traditional Trapper and Mountain Man gear and go on hikes. I use 1 inch wide polyweb for the shoulder strap instead and it's a little easier on the shoulders (alao known as "Mule Line" here in the States). Thanks again!

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  @nevetsdagur-fr9wx6 ай бұрын

  The Ruana is actually from Colombia not Ireland

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  @92Pyromaniac7 ай бұрын

  Nice test! It's not very common to use 100% beeswax for waterproofing because it can be very stiff. Most recipes use 10% beeswax and 90% paraffin wax. I personally prefer around 20% beeswax, 70% paraffin wax and 10% vaseline (this is really just a mix of mineral oil and paraffin wax but cheaper and easier to get in the UK than pure mineral oil). The mineral oil component really helps to soften the final mix once cooled. Also worth noting that the ratio may change depending on climate - in very cold climates the wax will be firmer so you may need to increase the percentage of oil.

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  @rafaeldelapiedra60307 ай бұрын

  ESO ES TRAMPA!!

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  @KB-qp7gk7 ай бұрын

  Thank you for the experiment! This is exactly what I was looking for! :)

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  @jonahsimmons36458 ай бұрын

  i've never heard of that dying technique before. thanks for the video

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  @markraciborski42898 ай бұрын

  Better way, line the ground cover so the pointy ends, one will be at your head, other feet. Align blankets to match. Basically, you are going to rotate yourself 45 degrees from where you normally would lay on a blanket. Head at a point, feet at a point. Pull the extra blanket point material up around feet, ankles, etc, and try to tuck it in between legs. This adds extra material to cold feet. Grabbing right blanket point, rap, folding it around you, tucking it, under you. Do the same for the left side. You will look like an egg roll. Now do this the same way with your canvas cover. You should have extra material around your head, a hoodie, to use as a cover up, over your head, if necessary. It basically squeezing out a bit more length out of blanket and cover. You do the same in a hammock, a proper hung hammock looks like a banana, hung at 35 degrees, you lay on a hammock diagonally as much as possible. This gives more room and makes a flat bed.

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  @richarddavies7988 ай бұрын

  Hi, I make my water bottles using bovine thin veg tan. I assemble using evostik glue around the edges & saddle stitch together. I preheat the leather to hand hot in readiness for the sealing process. I melt & Mix " WW Grade Pine Rosin/Resin/Colophony" with beeswax on a 50/50 ratio. Whilst keeping the leather hot I pour in the mixture & rotate the leather & view where the mixture soaks through the leather & the seams. I repeat this until all the leather is the same wet/dark colour, then pour out the remaining mixture. Using a hot air gun I heat the outside & wipe off all excess mixture at the same time draining any internal droplets. I insert the stopper so that while everything cools/cures a shrink tight nozzle holder is formed. A higher ratio of the resin to beeswax can be initially used to get a thicker seal through the seams & this can be varied to obtain differing levels of flexibility in the waterskin.

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  @ziggypop47688 ай бұрын

  I'm working with what ever I have around me as thread and needle etc lol

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  @ziggypop47688 ай бұрын

  I have something I plan to craft shield as well.

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  @ziggypop47688 ай бұрын

  Very nice. I'm trying to learn more . I recently skinned my leather furniture set of it's soft leather before I left it in an apt I was getting kicked out of. So got lots of leather . Time to learn crafting. I have a short type sword and made a sheath but I don't want the blade to eventually start to cut the binding of sheath. Try to protect sheath from coming apart due to using it with sword

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  @richardpearson93378 ай бұрын

  Brilliant like the colour as well.

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  @Anglo-NormanWarlord8 ай бұрын

  what kind of square are you using with the curved side? I need to get one of those lol

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  @larpwright8 ай бұрын

  it's a tailor's triangle.

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  @jessewier98399 ай бұрын

  why such thin leather?

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  @eddavanleemputten923210 ай бұрын

  I never realised his was called a ruana cloak. Close to 20 years ago these were all the rage where I live, made out of thin(ish) synthetic wool-like fabric with fringes at the short ends. They were sold under the bale of “poncho” or “poncho-shawl”. I still have a burgundy one I absolutely love in winter at the office: I’m always cold and can wrap myself in it. The long edges are finished (very narrow hem). I’ve frequently considered making myself a hew one as the one I have is becoming a bit tatty. I’m in temporary housing right now (renovations, ugh!) but as soon as I have my sewing supplies and good scissors out of storage I’m taking the plunge and making myself a new one. I still have loads of very fine, soft wool fabric in my stash that would work perfectly for this. It’s got a lovely drape to it and I was saving it up for sole reason or other. Not anymore! I’m even considering some light embroidering along the edge of the cut in the middle and around the neck. Maybe. Alternatively perhaps something along the bottom edges that wouldn’t only fancy it up, but might slightly weigh down the undersides to help with wear and drape. Not sure yet. That can always be done once the basic cloak is finished. Thank you!

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  @bunkyman80979 ай бұрын

  I am a knitter and crocheter and a ruana is easy peasy to make and oh so stylish!

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  @shepherd371610 ай бұрын

  Looks just like the cloak's the hobbits were wearing in Lord of the Rings

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  @Craftypants710 ай бұрын

  Try Silicone and mineral spirits, it’s the best waterproof mixture.

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  @mustamuri10 ай бұрын

  ✨😳✨ 👶👏🏕️

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  @SvRijswijck10 ай бұрын

  As someone who wears barefoot shoes in everyday life, ambient and/or historical boots are almost the same when you compare the sole. I've bought many different boots for LARPs over the past years, I think I've finally found my personal perfect boots. I stress the importance of personal. These boots are perfect for me and what I want from my boots.

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  @sierra536010 ай бұрын

  My boy here is an honorary Boyacense! Sumerce!

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  @benjammin550810 ай бұрын

  Totally awesome I'm doing it .Thanks

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  @hearjimmyjam11 ай бұрын

  Hey you mentioned talcum powder at the end there. What do you use that for?

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  @larpwright11 ай бұрын

  Talcum is used to powder latex weapons, to make them non-sticky and non-shiny. You can use silicone spray as well, but that will make the latex shiny.

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  @OakAthainNerin11 ай бұрын

  Awesome! Thank you so much. How tall are you? I’m 6 foot even, Just curious if I should add that extra 20 like you or not.

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  @larpwright11 ай бұрын

  6.2 feet.

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  @OakAthainNerin11 ай бұрын

  @@larpwright thank you man! Just made a nice ruana cloak from this video for viking fest here in California. Much lighter material tho given the climate.

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  @KaiBuskirk11 ай бұрын

  so cool!! danke!

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  @johnndavis764711 ай бұрын

  Things are either animal, vegetable or mineral. In this case cotton, a vegetable, so we want to treat it with a vegetable. Linseed oil, turpentine, alcohol, beeswax artist oil paint made of linseed oil base with tint are all ok. Any kind of petroleum product or mineral spirits is mineral and it will attack the fiber and weaken it over time. Good job here. Thanks for the video

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  @user-fu9vj9ix3g10 ай бұрын

  You can use naphtha mixed with silicone. The silicone dissolves into a solution that is carried into the threads by the naphtha. The naphtha evaps completely in about 2 hours, leaving just the silicone, which is inert and does not harm fabrics. Also, it will be ready to use in about 4 hours of drying. I recommend an addtional coating be applied by roller onto the "out" side while the tarp is setup and stretched normally, to fill any crossover holes and any stitches. Emphasis on the stitch lines, as you would with any seam treatment. I have made about a dozen tarps, both canvas and cotton sheets using boiled linseed oil/mineral spirits/toilet ring "wax". They have covered my sailboats, and served well as camp tarps, and firewood covers, as well as camping table covers and a couple rain coats for my dog. This, over the last ten years. None of them has ever degraded whatsoever, and, once fully cured, they do not catch fire. NOTE: NEVER tightly roll up or fold and store any fabric treated this way until fully cured out. This can take up to several weeks. Until it is fully cured, it CAN combust on its own. This is why I recently switched to using the silicone/naphtha solution.

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  @johnndavis764710 ай бұрын

  @@user-fu9vj9ix3g They have banned napha now. I think guys are using acetone instead.

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  @charlest25310 ай бұрын

  @@user-fu9vj9ix3g Can you provide a link to where you purchased the silicon, please and thanks!

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  @charlesfreeman-core3525Ай бұрын

  Not sure about your logic here: isn't petroleum derived from plants - even if very ancient plants and over millions of years of extreme conditions?

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  @johnndavis7647Ай бұрын

  Vegetable was treated with mineral and eventually became mineral. Same as when you over oil a rifle or shotgun action and the oil seeps into the stock and eventually mineraluzes the wood changing the grain structure and weakening it

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  @mj04f11 ай бұрын

  Are you using boiled or regural linseed oil?

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  @larpwright11 ай бұрын

  Boiled

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  @nouchkadevries465911 ай бұрын

  men that can sew are the hottest thing ever and u can not change my mind about it

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  @matador111111 ай бұрын

  is there a reason that youre not including iron oxide in your mixture?

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  @larpwright11 ай бұрын

  I didn't want to color the samples.

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  @guano524 Жыл бұрын

  FYI the Ruana is not Irish or Celtic, it's a cultural garment native to Colombia/Venezuela. For some reason people don't like to do a simple Google search anymore.

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  @rooftile_mcgee5 ай бұрын

  It is tho - well, sort of. When a lot of people say ruana they're actually referring to the very similar irish walking cloak, which has celtic origin. You are correct, the name ruana (and the actual garment) is from south america, people just call each thing the same name, despite them being different