Пікірлер

• 
  @keith39702 ай бұрын

  I hate seeing a bike kicked while on the sidestand.

• 
  @MrAbilowo2 ай бұрын

  Makin tua makin josss nih vespa

• 
  @dmystify1381 Жыл бұрын

  ...........❤💯

• 
  @chuckthebull Жыл бұрын

  Im building my flathead engine to go into an all souls custom frame but i love that bike you featured too.

• 
  @leestimson12 Жыл бұрын

  Hearing that 45 makes me long for my old my old Servicar.

• 
  @nordland22352 жыл бұрын

  I luv it.

• 
  @ernesthenderson9812 жыл бұрын

  Paint and chrome won't get ya home. That Ole 45 sounds rock solid.

• 
  @jeanjeudi11112 жыл бұрын

  You can really shuffle that bike around ! I thought it would be slow but it's quick and nimble with you on it anyway. It popped right off, engine sounded perfect.

• 
  @cjbriggs70442 жыл бұрын

  Hello, I am going to run a magneto on my 45. How did you enable the lights to continue working without a battery please? Thanks for your time.

• 
  @grapefruitsmoon2 жыл бұрын

  Can I still buy this thunderbird?

• 
  @dulichion2 жыл бұрын

  sick bike

• 
  @Smarterthanyou-mthrfkr2 жыл бұрын

  Never restore that!.

• 
  @amaliacitra27392 жыл бұрын

  Joozzzzzzzz

• 
  @amaliacitra27392 жыл бұрын

  Jozzzzzzzz

• 
  @limroberts2 жыл бұрын

  For sale?

• 
  @GeneGrey3372 жыл бұрын

  Almost anyone can understand this because the steps are shown not said. Unless one is literally blind or incompetent, like one of the idiots in this comment section. Thank you for sharing. Your videos are very interesting. And I know it's been years but my condolences 🙏🏼. Sorry about your friend.

• 
  @JohnJohnson-hk7cj3 жыл бұрын

  Cool and sounds sweet as!!

• 
  @GeneGrey3373 жыл бұрын

  Beautiful 😍. Thanks for sharing.

• 
  @shanecrawford60233 жыл бұрын

  So, how much did you let it go for. I have a similar one here in Canada.

• 
  @bigdawg46513 жыл бұрын

  What kind of film should I get?

• 
  @alanajaty3 жыл бұрын

  gr8

• 
  @AS-mr5uv3 жыл бұрын

  Kaha milegi aisi scooter

• 
  @andybigbs94663 жыл бұрын

  Wow where did you find this sx200?

• 
  @wayneblue42483 жыл бұрын

  How much???

• 
  @wayneblue42483 жыл бұрын

  IT already sold?? well hell!!!

• 
  @victorslowik37864 жыл бұрын

  I would listen!

• 
  @victorslowik37864 жыл бұрын

  If CYCLES could talk about their history?

• 
  @johndragon39004 жыл бұрын

  Love sounds good

• 
  @devodave054 жыл бұрын

  thanks

• 
  @Mytuberify4 жыл бұрын

  Super cool flathead🍻

• 
  @devodave054 жыл бұрын

  appreciate it, I'm building another one now

• 
  @papichulo55523 жыл бұрын

  @@devodave05 will the new one be for sale?

• 
  @edcass94 жыл бұрын

  What a great original bike, shame the engine number was changed. I hope whoever bought it, left it looking original.

• 
  @Kevin-ps9yf4 жыл бұрын

  0:34 that car looks cool But what car is that?

• 
  @CarltonPhillupBanx4 жыл бұрын

  Who won? Did they announce a winner?

• 
  @aslamKhan-nj1vg4 жыл бұрын

  Call me 9770591203 for sale

• 
  @forquetwo644 жыл бұрын

  Looks mostly there , I have been looking for a similar project myself . Good luck bringing her back to life

• 
  @amyxoxo89354 жыл бұрын

  Where can I buy this and what’s ur details so I can contact u and my name is Anthony

• 
  @xanderm73384 жыл бұрын

  Jake Lloyd brought me here.

• 
  @sampraz1990 Жыл бұрын

  me too lol

• 
  @AhmedMir-nt5iq4 жыл бұрын

  im interested

• 
  @atcjoe16004 жыл бұрын

  She moves for a 45”, sounds great!

• 
  @pip110.54 жыл бұрын

  Sounds so sweet.

• 
  @soldtobediers4 жыл бұрын

  I can picture every move that a man could make Getting lost in her loving is your first mistake -DU69160

• 
  @devodave054 жыл бұрын

  Sundown -

• 
  @matthewcoldicutt59513 жыл бұрын

  Did you have a bad experience with a Thunderbird?

• 
  @soldtobediers3 жыл бұрын

  @@matthewcoldicutt5951 Matthew: remember who you are talking to... Triumph Riders never have a bad experience with them... Like wives; just many agreements to understand overcome their needs.

• 
  @matthewcoldicutt59513 жыл бұрын

  @@soldtobediersI'll go with that

• 
  @bikeluversusie25224 жыл бұрын

  I love this! Father and son jammin!

• 
  @lunaranny4 жыл бұрын

  submusic

• 
  @ManojYadav-nl4nx4 жыл бұрын

  Was you have class coupe take a nap i have a number may have number busy

• 
  @Tonetwisters4 жыл бұрын

  I have this same year Twin. Even though it has been "blackfaced," I have never been happy with that amp ... It just has no warmth or sweetness about it, at all ...

• 
  @devodave054 жыл бұрын

  I like to turn my treble to almost zero!

• 
  @mikecamps72264 жыл бұрын

  these are the changes you need to do. First you need to go in to the cap pan underneath and adjust the power rail voltages. First you check the phase inverter tube plate voltages and if they are not close to about 235/240 volts on the plates there...you need to adjust the power resistor to get in to that range for that power rail node. The PI will not have the same voltage on each half of the tube which is normal. Then down stream from the PI the next power resistor will need to be adjusted to a higher value and the same wattage....all the power rail power resistors should be 2 watts minimum.....3 watts is better. The down stream resistor feeds the pre-amp tubes and you want to adjust the plate voltages to get around 140 volts on the plates of V1 & V2. The fender plate voltages for those tubes is usually up around 225 volts which makes the response very linear and sterile.....has lots of clean headroom but no flavor for a juicy guitar sound. SO dropping the plate voltage will get it in to the range that the 1950's amps typically ran at. The next operation is the pre-amp tubes in the various positions. The V1 & V2 are the primary source of your sound. V2 is the reverb side tube. V1 is the dry side channel. V3 is the reverb driver tube and V4 is the reverb recovery gain stage. Change V3 to a EH 12at7 regular tube (electroharmonic's also makes a 12at7 wc type tube that has a very bright response and the regular version is warmer and even and not with a bright emphasis), as this will give a great even reverb response. Change V4 to a EH 12ay7 first to try it as you will be determining the gain of the signal you need. The V4 12ay7 will have less gain than a 12ax7 that is called for and thus it will make the reverb much more clear...the clarity of the reverb will result in better note articulation. The EH 12ay7 is an even response tube. Alternatively for a bit more gain if you need it and retaining the clarity is to use a 12at7 tube......the choices are the EH 12at7 as in the reverb driver V3 position or using a JJ 12at7 tube as the JJ will be a bit more warmer in response to the EH version....the EH and the JJ have their own quality to them and its your ear at the end to determine what you prefer. My clients prefer either the EH types with even response and emphasis. The V6 PI tube is subjective as it drives the power tubes.....and you should choose according to the end result for emphasis in the sound shaping there.....but its not as dramatic as the other pre-amp tubes in front of it. The V2 is the primary sound shaping tube, and that's the position you need to concentrate on after all the changes have been made. There are a variety of 12ax7 modern tubes as well as NOS varieties. I suggest using modern available tubes as when it eventually dies, you'll be able to find the exact same tube readily and cheap as compared to searching for a NOS exact replacement as the prices continue to rise due to supply getting scarce as time goes on. I'd suggest starting with a EH 12ax7 as they have long plates....alternatively to try is the LPS version from EH/sovtek. The Sovtek 12ax7 wa is a standard stock issued amp tube in modern amps as they are cheap. And the JJ 12ax7 is also cheap and popular. But each of these tubes will have a particular sonic signature and response as you play them and its selecting by ear which one you find that gives you the best of the best in the dynamic response with the guitar you are using as the guitars pickups are also a part of the equation. You mention that the amp was converted to the Black Face specs which mainly involves the phase inverter......but it should also involve the biasing circuit so the power tubes can be biased correctly. You want to bias the power tubes so they get at least 35ma to 45 ma per tube which will be in the hot bias range. The bias will also affect all the power rail voltages that I mentioned to adjust.....so your bias need to be set properly. The master volume pot with the pull out switch for the distortion circuit....that distortion is useless and should be removed totally from the bard and circuit....the switch on the pot is ok to remain as it won't work with the guts removed...don't be tempted to use it as a switch for anything else as the pot might cause a coupling to other parts of the circuitry even though its not directly connected by the switch if you use the switch to do something. The premise in using the amp is to dial up the pre-amp volume to get the preamp to give you the primary sound and how much breakup you want and need, and the master volume is the gate way to the power tubes and the over all loudness of the amp. Generally I say when the bias is up and hot, that on the master volume dial....zero to about 3 the amp gets louder as you dial up but at a clean kind of response. Between 3 to 7 is where the amp comes alive and the power tubes get juicy. And 7 to wide open is Jimi Hendrix territory......all without dropping down your preamp volume setting...once dialed in with the preamp....never change it. If you want more character to the amp, the phase inverter circuit can be tweaked. The input cap is usually a .001 disk cap that should be changed to a .02uf/630 volt polyester type cap but not an orange drop. Orange drop caps are too sterile. But the place for an orange drop cap is at the end of the PI where it connects to the power tubes...the last pair of coupling caps at the end of the circuit board.....they can be swapped to a .1uf/630 volt orange drop cap as they seem to add a bit more low end overall and clarity when everything else is adjust prior as I direct here in what I write. The caps act as a filter and changing the PI input cap to a .02uf will let more frequency pass thru. If you find it to be too much, then you can scale back to a .01uf, but don't go more than a .02uf. If you still need a bit more character from the amp, the fender factory feedback resistor is a 820 ohm resistor off the PI to the speaker jack. Raising the value will open up the amp and make it more aggressive in response as opposed to being refined as it is set from the factory. So try a 2.7K resistor first and you can scale up from thre to find your sweet spot.....as you go higher...the amp will start sounding louder overall and more dynamic but the listening point is when the master volume is above 3 on the dial where the power tubes are coming alive in response...its going to get loud. For the speakers in the amp.....I'd recommend 2 EV's....evm-L's or on the cheaper end...eminence delta 12's are they sound similar and are heavy duty with big voice coils and a good dynamic response. If you want to further the amp for response, you want to add reverb to the dry channel so you can bridge both channels as that will give you a way thicker sound than just using the reverb channel as is with it a single channel.....2 signals driving the power tubes yields more richness. When you look at the V2 preamp circuit on the board.....you'll see a 500pf disk cap coming off the V2 circuit which feeds the reverb circuit.....the cap coming off the V2 preamp circuit goes right to the 500pf cap.....and you want to look at the V1 preamp circuit and see that same cap where it has a wire going over to a 220K resistor pair at the master volume pot wire going to the board be the PI circuitry.....the PI input just ahead of the .001uf disk cap I mentioned to change to a .02uf cap. You would remove the wire at the 220K resistor and move it over to where the 500pf cap is off the V2 cap feeding the 500pf cap that is the nput to the reverb circuitry......very simple move of that one wire and where its connected in the circuitry. Having reverb on both channels means that they are both in phase with each other and can be jumpered at the input jacks. If you normally plug in to the #1 feed on the reverb channel, you would use the #2 next to it to plug a jumper wire in to and then plug the other end of the wire in to the "dry" channel #1 input jack...and set the controls the same as you have the reverb channel controls. If you plug the jumper to the other input #2 on the dry channel it will reduce the combining effect slightly.....the primary place you plug your guitar in to is the dominant channel and the jumper goes to the slave channel. Start with the slave channel set exactly as the reverb side.....then try turning down the treble pot on the slave side and you'll hear the dominant side get much more richer in the low end.....and a thicker response and sound...you can play with the settings to dial in...its a whole new world that way....and you'll be amazed at the tonality that's been hiding from you. BUT ITS GOING TO GET LOUD......protect your ears

• 
  @steveseifertsr.81204 жыл бұрын

  Left tank,(gas) is from a '46 or earlier because of the shift gate,transmission is also not a 1950,it 's shift pattern,(1sr gear all the way forward),is backwards!!!

• 
  @devodave054 жыл бұрын

  thanks or pointing that out. I never knew that. This was a 3 speed, with out reverse. Is that possible? Thanks man

• 
  @steveseifertsr.81204 жыл бұрын

  @@devodave05 Yes that is possible,those with a sidecar did have reverse tho'...I have a 1950 with reverse,but don't have the sidecar,1st gear is all the way back to me,then neutral,2nd and then 3rd being all the way forward...The shifting drum is the only difference in the transmissions on the shift pattern...Also your front brake lever is on the wrong side,should be in the throttle side of the handlebars...

• 
  @steveseifertsr.81204 жыл бұрын

  The front fender is incorrect also,it is off a Harley trike or a big twin Harley...(74 cu in.).

• 
  @devodave054 жыл бұрын

  @@steveseifertsr.8120 Hey Steve - the front fender was off a later trike. But in 1950 all the fenders for WLs were changed to this stream lined style. The fender is correct but the braces were off a 3 wheeler.

• 
  @devodave054 жыл бұрын

  @@steveseifertsr.8120 This was an earlier transmission too. Not a two bolt, but the transmission was a pre 40 I think. The top trans cover is the older style that was changed in like 1940.

• 
  @Klassiccycles4 жыл бұрын

  Did this sell?

• 
  @devodave054 жыл бұрын

  Yes this bike sod last summer, if you are wondering $14k

• 
  @devodave054 жыл бұрын

  Also, I have another one I am building now :)

• 
  @Klassiccycles4 жыл бұрын

  @@devodave05 14 seems about average. I'm shopping for a WL now. We will see what happens.

• 
  @kjerstenwoodward4344 жыл бұрын

  Is this for sale?

• 
  @devodave054 жыл бұрын

  It was, sold it this Sumer 2019

• 
  @richardpope68215 жыл бұрын

  That sounds perfect. You’ve got that thing down.

• 
  @davedave58235 жыл бұрын

  Cut it dowm paint it mat black ☻☻

• 
  @dboy64005 жыл бұрын

  Just found out that the vibrato won't work unless the footswitch is plugged in on the rear panel OR the RCA jack is shorted! For years I thought my Twin had a defective vibrato. Look about halfway down this parts supply page- www.amprepairparts.com/fendersf.htm#vibrato. Don't need to buy it, just short an RCA jack.

• 
  @auknu5 жыл бұрын

  For me; a perfect little beauty.