HI, einen runden Lichtpunkt macht er aber nicht. ist das normal? In die Mitte habe Ihn bekommen wenn ich eine 360 -grad Drehung mache, nur der Laserpunkt ist nicht von der Abbildung scharf wie er eigentlich sein sollte. ich hoffe ich finde den Polaris und hoffe auch dass die Leuchtstärke zum Auffinden reicht. CS Rudi
@williamhanrahan92115 күн бұрын
Awesome video! I have two questions. What is the little round rubber plug on the top of the Nomad? Mine is a bit loose and feels like it could be pulled out. Also, my Nomad's plate does not have a set screw. There is a hole on mine where yours has a set acrew, but it's way too large for a set screw (several times larger), it's a weird (not perfect circle) shape, and has no threads. The photos of the Nomad on MSM's website look like mine, so compare those to yours to see what I'm talking about. Do you know why this is?
@EdBPhoto8 күн бұрын
Re-Edit... for me at least.
@richcower8 күн бұрын
This is the best video I’ve seen on this subject. Great job! I’ve subscribed, you really know this material and you do a phenomenal job of explaining it to a neophyte like myself. Thanks
@pinosoto7711 күн бұрын
Excellent video Alex, I already subscribed to learn more. Any suggestions for a good tripod for the Nomad?
@dominiclester323211 күн бұрын
What a great video, thanks! Such a fair and reasonable conclusion 👏👏👏
@chasingluminance11 күн бұрын
Thanks for the comment
@scrptwic12 күн бұрын
I bought the Sirui AT 125 that camera with the video head I have used my 150- 450 wildlife lens I also bought the SL200 center column extension it screws on to the center column and extended additional 2ft 6" for $ 20.00 and it is carbon fiber with the 22 pound capacity. I needed the additional height for my gimble to work properly on the tripod
@isbestlizard14 күн бұрын
I don't see any more detail or contrast on the 600mm just more background blur. I guess if you're only shooting with ~20MP go with the MFT version but for higher resolution maybe the 600 has a benefit? Not $10k of benefit unless you're literally shooting for National Geographic >.>
@chasingluminance11 күн бұрын
A few of the owl photos look better on the Canon
@MartinFransson15 күн бұрын
Does this work now when most lamps are LED?
@chasingluminance11 күн бұрын
Not as well
@weirfpv66915 күн бұрын
Hi, I enjoyed your video, however I wanted to mention that when using the polar alignment scope, the celestial pole is what is centered in the crosshair not Polaris itself as the star is offset slightly from true celestial pole. Using various apps will assist with aligning Polaris to the correct position for your location and time.
@chasingluminance11 күн бұрын
Correct. I was just using those criss hairs for calibration
@CleanSlateFarm17 күн бұрын
Fabulous instruction video. Well worth the 25 minutes for this very thorough guide. Thanks! Now all I need is for the cloud cover to move out and I'm off to the races.
@chasingluminance17 күн бұрын
Well thank you. Hope the clouds clear
@joaquintrigueros20 күн бұрын
Super-pro Andy Rouse switched from Canon to Olympus (OM Systems now) years ago. He hasn't looked back. Super-super pro Sebastian Salgado used to maximise depth of field (opposite of subject separation) "because that's how the human eye sees". He often used a Canon 70-300L at f11 to capture things as he thought they should naturally look. No need for large apertures or massive teles.
@jameswong310521 күн бұрын
After using the 300mmf4 pro for 2 years, i enjoyed the om system so much I upgrade to the 150400pro instead of going FF.
@chasingluminance11 күн бұрын
Great choice
@1duesy23 күн бұрын
Great video! A few questions: How far away do you place light from subject? Should light placement be same distance from subject as the camera? Instead of moving light closer to subject, why not just increase intensity? What setting variables do you use for stacking? Thank you!
@chasingluminance11 күн бұрын
I place the light fairly far away... maybe 75 feet so it has a nice wide cast. Setting variables?
@palpacher196824 күн бұрын
Nice video, completely agree with you. The difference is minimal and mostly in the background blur in some images and a bit in noise. In fact for some images I preferred the Olympus setup, for others the Canon. For me the portability and flexibility is more important than maybe 10% extra in image quality. In addition, for extra 10K you can travel to many amazing places.....
@chasingluminance24 күн бұрын
Agreed
@cconnerolson26 күн бұрын
For focus, wouldn’t you just want to focus to infinity?
@chasingluminance24 күн бұрын
Usually, infinity isn't quite perfect
@cconnerolson23 күн бұрын
@@chasingluminance didn’t realize, but yeah that makes sense. Just shot a roll of Aurora 800 on a FE-2 with 24mm 2.8, pushing +2 so time will tell if I nailed focus haha
@chasingluminance23 күн бұрын
@@cconnerolson let's hope!
@kynio343326 күн бұрын
Flippy screen is the most annoying thing when shooting handheld wildlife. Especially when you have a camera strap.
@chasingluminance24 күн бұрын
View finder
@kynio343324 күн бұрын
@@chasingluminance Stupid
@denisecooper885229 күн бұрын
Thank you for all your guidance! Love your work!
@chasingluminance24 күн бұрын
Thank you!
@davidthompson3136Ай бұрын
Are the Nomad batteries Lithium? Can they be replaced - consumer standard?
@Mike-vd2qtАй бұрын
Great video! Good ol' #399 is the most photographed grizzly alive. Do you know why she is always found near the road with her cubs?
@chasingluminance24 күн бұрын
A lot of the bears cross the road... 399 is just the most infamous. 610 and falicia are really photogenic too
@lizheard9063Ай бұрын
I would be interested to know what the total weight was for you heaviest lens and what the success rate was for that set up.
@FieldingSmithАй бұрын
Both my laser and scope are so loose in their mounts that this has been a pita for me. And as soon as I think i get the scope centered, I use the laser pointer without the scope mount and its a good 6in off at 50ft. /sigh. And both the cell phone holder scope mount and the regular scope mount don’t point in the same place… about to throw them out and order a set of “calibrated” ones… but now I have trust issues lol
@FierceSleepingDogАй бұрын
Moved to OM Systems/Olympus last year from Nikon DSLRs. My D500 and D850 with pro glass have served me well and I occasionally still use them, but I have more fun with the MFT gear. Smaller, better computational features, weather sealed, less expensive lenses without a loss in quality. The Oly 300mm f4 is the sharpest lens I own. An example of excellent engineering. The Oly 150-400 would be a dream lens to own...maybe after my kids complete college and I payoff my home mortgage....LOL
@MrElectikАй бұрын
Agree. Optical bokeh is dead
@PinoAstroАй бұрын
Great overview of these trackers! I had the SAM, but later upgraded.
@chasingluminanceАй бұрын
Thank you!
@vsk0709Ай бұрын
Hi Alex, Do you have a tutorial where you show how to do a panorama of the Milky Way, say a single row, with the MSM tracker? If not, can you do that? Thanks
@@chasingluminance thanks for this, what I was looking for is how to level and pano on the tracker, I use a ball head on the tracker and the knobs come in the way after some shots.
@adarsh2919Ай бұрын
Hey man, I'm planning to buy a nomad and your video helped alot here, thanks alot mate 🎉
@chasingluminanceАй бұрын
Glad it helped. Make sure to use the code ALEX
@azza9304Ай бұрын
What a super helpful guide, thank you for sharing this kind of insight
@chasingluminanceАй бұрын
Glad you enjoyed
@JIMSMNTLABАй бұрын
I prefer Tabeguache No. 2. Both great pictures, but the fire reflection doesn't overtake the rest of the elements in No. 2. I enjoy your videos. I live in Northern Colorado and just received my first "upscale" camera a used OMD E-Mii. Just getting into astrophotography. I'm learning a lot from your videos! The adventure side is super helpful for when I plan on going out and the images are inspirational to my own potential projects. I look forward to seeing the 14er book when it comes out!
@chasingluminanceАй бұрын
Thanks for the comment. So many more mountains to go
@azza9304Ай бұрын
Been learning a lot from your channel, I just bought the nomad and I will be going through your playlist dedicated to it. I was wondering just how long an exposure can you hope to make with a 20mm 1.8 lens with a rough polar alignment with a laser. Is a 2 to 3 minute long exposure a reasonable expectation?
@chasingluminanceАй бұрын
2-3 minutes is very possible with a proper set up. Oh, and thank you
@jonerikrolf2029Ай бұрын
I have used all the excellent lenses and the 2x TC in this video report. I am surprised that the 1.4x TC wasn’t included as it is a superb way tho add flexibility to the 40-150 and the 300mm lenses without loss of image quality or a big boost in ISO. Fow myself even at 82, I carry the 40-150mm f/2.8 and the 150-400mm when photographing/videoing wildlife.
@chasingluminanceАй бұрын
I need to get a1.4
@kirkguida984Ай бұрын
Tried using the link for your workshop and got an error?
I like the color better on the OMS stuff better too. I have an R5 system and an OM-1 mkII system. When I go out the door, I tend to grab the OM-1. ps: I also have the 150-400 f/4.5 and will probably be buried with it as I will never let it go.
@atanuhalder7750Ай бұрын
The comparison is little unfair. 600mm f4 is much faster and light gathering than 300f4 ( equivalent to 600f8). You should have compared with at least Nikon 600mm f6.3 which is faster and same weight than 300mm f4. Nikon 400 f/4.5 on a crop body is even cheaper and lighter and ff-equivalent to 600mm f6.75.
@chasingluminanceАй бұрын
No it's not... the "f8" only affects depth of field.
@atanuhalder7750Ай бұрын
@@chasingluminance And light gathering capability. Light gathering capability of a lens depend on physical diameter = focal length/f-stop. Diameter of 300mm f4 is 75mm same as 600mm f8. 600mm f/6.3 has more diameter. For mft, 300mm, f4, ISO 200, Shutter Speed 1/500 would be equal to ff 600mm f8, ISO 800, shutter speed1/500. See how I kept shutter speed and physical aperture (focal length/diameter) same. This allows same dof and same noise. ISO 200 on mft and 800 on ff would give almost same noise because same amoount of light is gathered. You can do the experiment yourself to verify or check some videos from Tony Northrup.
@chasingluminanceАй бұрын
Nope, wrong again
@atanuhalder7750Ай бұрын
@@chasingluminance can you point out what is wrong here? Btw, I have a phd in aerospace engineering and I understand lens optic. Not trying to brag, but when you say I’m wrong I expect some logical answer.
@sandbilly10021 күн бұрын
@@atanuhalder7750aerospace engineering and optics? Not seeing the connection here or are you assuming that the rest of us don’t have a science background therefore your tenuous connection to optical engineering trumps anything we have to say ?
@HuFilmsАй бұрын
Nice one. These lenses on a GH7 would be interesting.
@chasingluminanceАй бұрын
For sure
@stevematadobra6117Ай бұрын
Thank you Alex. I am purchasing the NOMAD this week. So this may be a silly question but is there an on/off switch on the NOMAD? Also - 35mm....looks like you got a lot in the frame. Can the NOMAD withstand the weight of a 70-200 f2.8? Again, thank you.
@chasingluminanceАй бұрын
Yes and yes. The switch goes between north off and south. And it can handle a 70-200... maybe not 4 minute exposures, but it can do 30 seconds to 1 minute pretty well
@l.m2517Ай бұрын
You know you found the review you were looking for after the first two minutes. Of course I liked and subscribed immediately ! Keep up the good work!
@chasingluminanceАй бұрын
Thank you!
@kevinashley478Ай бұрын
I am about to watch this video, but I have some questions. If the video answers it, just ignore it. So I have a Star Adventurer 2i and a Pentax K1000 35mm film camera. How do you go about using the shutter release cable without shaking the camera? How do you expose for an hour and not wash out the image? I know you can astro mod a DSLR, would a film camera need a similar modification to get more Ha emission, or is that mod only relevant to DSLR's? I am sure I will have more questions. Thank you for your time.
@ForrestWestАй бұрын
Not going to watch the video because the title is ridiculous and you misspelled Canon.
@chasingluminanceАй бұрын
Or did i?
@ElBoyoElectronicoАй бұрын
This was a very helpful and interesting video! The differences in your comparison really seem rather small, which is quite surprising. However, I do think this is partly due to the time of day you were shooting, with a lot of bright and sunny pictures, as well as pictures where the subjects were quite far away. The 600mm f4 shines mostly in the early hours of the day and when it gets dark. I did notice that the highlights in the 300mm shots were often close to being blown out, while the 600mm shots maintained better exposure. You did make a great point about the differences between these setups being rather small given the enormous price difference. As I am a Canon shooter, I would always go with the 600mm f4 if I had the money, but right now, I am quite happy with my RF100-500, which is a fantastic compromise for Canon shooters.
@chasingluminanceАй бұрын
The bear in the field was after sun dropped behind low heavy evening clouds and the owl and bison was dumping snow...
@danender5555Ай бұрын
When you finish an alignment to Polaris... how you move camera to the object you want to capture? Once you move the camera, the Polaris alignment is gone.
@chasingluminanceАй бұрын
I use the ball head on top of the tracker to adjust the orientation of the camera. This does not effect the alignment
@robalexwarАй бұрын
The 300 in the the om1 is good but the bokeh and isolation on the the 600 is outstanding.
@chasingluminanceАй бұрын
Truth
@joaquintrigueros20 күн бұрын
Isolation is a late concept in the history of photography. Photographers would try to get as large a depth of field as possible. Some super-pros like Salgado still advocate for this.
@chasingluminance20 күн бұрын
@@joaquintrigueros I like isolation sometimes. In closeup "animial portraits"
@JIMSMNTLABАй бұрын
Alex, I am new to astrophotography but your video is very helpful! I'm working with a OM1-Mii. Lots to learn, lots of fun. Thanks!
@chasingluminanceАй бұрын
Glad you enjoyed
@carollemarchand1299Ай бұрын
It would have been nice to compare the ISOs used. I own a G9 and a G9 II. MFT is a great format to shoot birds because you get a greater depth of field. However the compromise is that, if you need to crop in, you will have to denoise the resulting image. Not a big deal but it's an additional step in my workflow. Finally the lighter, cheaper gear is a WIN_WIN for me. How about you? Looking forward to more content from you. :))
@chasingluminanceАй бұрын
We did our best to use all the same settings... we missed it a few times.
@RickLincolnАй бұрын
Nicely done. You have inspired me to look at the invariance on my own R5.
@chasingluminanceАй бұрын
Awesome
@riddleunccАй бұрын
what a great review! The 300mm had a great showing.
@chasingluminanceАй бұрын
Thank you!
@DR-fy7qyАй бұрын
Thanks for this video. How do you align the Nomad Star Tracker with Polaris when it is not visible during a hazy day or night sky?
@chasingluminanceАй бұрын
The phone bracket would help
@PatrickSmeatonАй бұрын
It's not magic. That 300mm f/4 is not a 600mm f/4 in any way. They may give you the same field of view in their respective formats, but they are NOT the same magnification. Conversely and strangely, nobody ever compares the formats in this way: The Nikon 400mm f/4.5 lens is a "field of view" 4/3 equivalent to a 200mm lens. If you're using a Nikon Z8 or Z9, you can crop your image to the 4/3 equivalent field of view of 400mm and still make a better print than you'd get from a print from that OM camera (it's been proven). So, via cropping, you have a considerably cheaper and lighter, theoretical 200mm - 400mm f/4.5 zoom lens. And no, I'm not a full frame or Nikon fan boy. I was very recently in the market for a completely new camera system, and had my choices narrowed down to OM Systems (because of the 150-400mm lens) and Nikon. I simply finally decided on Nikon for the above reasons.
@chasingluminanceАй бұрын
Yes, 45.7 megapixels is more than 20.
@PatrickSmeatonАй бұрын
@@chasingluminance, but here's the real kicker: Nikon Z8, 24-70 f/4, and 400 f/4.5 is 5.65 lbs and $7100.00 OM1 MkII, 12-45 f/4, and 150-400 f/4.5 is 5.85 lbs and $9500
@chasingluminanceАй бұрын
@@PatrickSmeaton and I'd take the om1 set up every time
@PatrickSmeatonАй бұрын
@@chasingluminance, oh and I forgot to mention that pixel peeping images/files of different sizes at 100% on a computer does not give you a real representation of the image quality. If they're both at 100%, the large image/file will be a larger photograph.
@chasingluminanceАй бұрын
@PatrickSmeaton well obviously a sensor with more pixles will create a larger file. And you could see that represented in the images. A 100% on the cannon was not the same as a 100% on the O. M... but still the best way to compare them
@robertvanempel5810Ай бұрын
I just returned from a trip to Europe and had the 300, 12-40, 40-150 and OM-1 plus other stuff in my carry-on backpack, weighing 7kg total.
@chasingluminanceАй бұрын
Exactly
@FierceSleepingDogАй бұрын
Bingo. MFT = Lots of capabilities in a very small and lightweight system. If you want the very best IQ and low light capabilities then FF is the route, but you will need more bulk/weight. Physics is physics. A larger sensor means more glass up front. Personally, the incremental difference in IQ between FF and MFT is not worth the extra weight, bulk, and cost IMO.
Пікірлер
HI, einen runden Lichtpunkt macht er aber nicht. ist das normal? In die Mitte habe Ihn bekommen wenn ich eine 360 -grad Drehung mache, nur der Laserpunkt ist nicht von der Abbildung scharf wie er eigentlich sein sollte. ich hoffe ich finde den Polaris und hoffe auch dass die Leuchtstärke zum Auffinden reicht. CS Rudi
Awesome video! I have two questions. What is the little round rubber plug on the top of the Nomad? Mine is a bit loose and feels like it could be pulled out. Also, my Nomad's plate does not have a set screw. There is a hole on mine where yours has a set acrew, but it's way too large for a set screw (several times larger), it's a weird (not perfect circle) shape, and has no threads. The photos of the Nomad on MSM's website look like mine, so compare those to yours to see what I'm talking about. Do you know why this is?
Re-Edit... for me at least.
This is the best video I’ve seen on this subject. Great job! I’ve subscribed, you really know this material and you do a phenomenal job of explaining it to a neophyte like myself. Thanks
Excellent video Alex, I already subscribed to learn more. Any suggestions for a good tripod for the Nomad?
What a great video, thanks! Such a fair and reasonable conclusion 👏👏👏
Thanks for the comment
I bought the Sirui AT 125 that camera with the video head I have used my 150- 450 wildlife lens I also bought the SL200 center column extension it screws on to the center column and extended additional 2ft 6" for $ 20.00 and it is carbon fiber with the 22 pound capacity. I needed the additional height for my gimble to work properly on the tripod
I don't see any more detail or contrast on the 600mm just more background blur. I guess if you're only shooting with ~20MP go with the MFT version but for higher resolution maybe the 600 has a benefit? Not $10k of benefit unless you're literally shooting for National Geographic >.>
A few of the owl photos look better on the Canon
Does this work now when most lamps are LED?
Not as well
Hi, I enjoyed your video, however I wanted to mention that when using the polar alignment scope, the celestial pole is what is centered in the crosshair not Polaris itself as the star is offset slightly from true celestial pole. Using various apps will assist with aligning Polaris to the correct position for your location and time.
Correct. I was just using those criss hairs for calibration
Fabulous instruction video. Well worth the 25 minutes for this very thorough guide. Thanks! Now all I need is for the cloud cover to move out and I'm off to the races.
Well thank you. Hope the clouds clear
Super-pro Andy Rouse switched from Canon to Olympus (OM Systems now) years ago. He hasn't looked back. Super-super pro Sebastian Salgado used to maximise depth of field (opposite of subject separation) "because that's how the human eye sees". He often used a Canon 70-300L at f11 to capture things as he thought they should naturally look. No need for large apertures or massive teles.
After using the 300mmf4 pro for 2 years, i enjoyed the om system so much I upgrade to the 150400pro instead of going FF.
Great choice
Great video! A few questions: How far away do you place light from subject? Should light placement be same distance from subject as the camera? Instead of moving light closer to subject, why not just increase intensity? What setting variables do you use for stacking? Thank you!
I place the light fairly far away... maybe 75 feet so it has a nice wide cast. Setting variables?
Nice video, completely agree with you. The difference is minimal and mostly in the background blur in some images and a bit in noise. In fact for some images I preferred the Olympus setup, for others the Canon. For me the portability and flexibility is more important than maybe 10% extra in image quality. In addition, for extra 10K you can travel to many amazing places.....
Agreed
For focus, wouldn’t you just want to focus to infinity?
Usually, infinity isn't quite perfect
@@chasingluminance didn’t realize, but yeah that makes sense. Just shot a roll of Aurora 800 on a FE-2 with 24mm 2.8, pushing +2 so time will tell if I nailed focus haha
@@cconnerolson let's hope!
Flippy screen is the most annoying thing when shooting handheld wildlife. Especially when you have a camera strap.
View finder
@@chasingluminance Stupid
Thank you for all your guidance! Love your work!
Thank you!
Are the Nomad batteries Lithium? Can they be replaced - consumer standard?
Great video! Good ol' #399 is the most photographed grizzly alive. Do you know why she is always found near the road with her cubs?
A lot of the bears cross the road... 399 is just the most infamous. 610 and falicia are really photogenic too
I would be interested to know what the total weight was for you heaviest lens and what the success rate was for that set up.
Both my laser and scope are so loose in their mounts that this has been a pita for me. And as soon as I think i get the scope centered, I use the laser pointer without the scope mount and its a good 6in off at 50ft. /sigh. And both the cell phone holder scope mount and the regular scope mount don’t point in the same place… about to throw them out and order a set of “calibrated” ones… but now I have trust issues lol
Moved to OM Systems/Olympus last year from Nikon DSLRs. My D500 and D850 with pro glass have served me well and I occasionally still use them, but I have more fun with the MFT gear. Smaller, better computational features, weather sealed, less expensive lenses without a loss in quality. The Oly 300mm f4 is the sharpest lens I own. An example of excellent engineering. The Oly 150-400 would be a dream lens to own...maybe after my kids complete college and I payoff my home mortgage....LOL
Agree. Optical bokeh is dead
Great overview of these trackers! I had the SAM, but later upgraded.
Thank you!
Hi Alex, Do you have a tutorial where you show how to do a panorama of the Milky Way, say a single row, with the MSM tracker? If not, can you do that? Thanks
kzread.info/dash/bejne/i3tm0cebaJmXYNo.htmlsi=5kvZfp8H2QHiopK-
@@chasingluminance thanks for this, what I was looking for is how to level and pano on the tracker, I use a ball head on the tracker and the knobs come in the way after some shots.
Hey man, I'm planning to buy a nomad and your video helped alot here, thanks alot mate 🎉
Glad it helped. Make sure to use the code ALEX
What a super helpful guide, thank you for sharing this kind of insight
Glad you enjoyed
I prefer Tabeguache No. 2. Both great pictures, but the fire reflection doesn't overtake the rest of the elements in No. 2. I enjoy your videos. I live in Northern Colorado and just received my first "upscale" camera a used OMD E-Mii. Just getting into astrophotography. I'm learning a lot from your videos! The adventure side is super helpful for when I plan on going out and the images are inspirational to my own potential projects. I look forward to seeing the 14er book when it comes out!
Thanks for the comment. So many more mountains to go
Been learning a lot from your channel, I just bought the nomad and I will be going through your playlist dedicated to it. I was wondering just how long an exposure can you hope to make with a 20mm 1.8 lens with a rough polar alignment with a laser. Is a 2 to 3 minute long exposure a reasonable expectation?
2-3 minutes is very possible with a proper set up. Oh, and thank you
I have used all the excellent lenses and the 2x TC in this video report. I am surprised that the 1.4x TC wasn’t included as it is a superb way tho add flexibility to the 40-150 and the 300mm lenses without loss of image quality or a big boost in ISO. Fow myself even at 82, I carry the 40-150mm f/2.8 and the 150-400mm when photographing/videoing wildlife.
I need to get a1.4
Tried using the link for your workshop and got an error?
Oh no! It must be broken. Email me at [email protected]
I like the color better on the OMS stuff better too. I have an R5 system and an OM-1 mkII system. When I go out the door, I tend to grab the OM-1. ps: I also have the 150-400 f/4.5 and will probably be buried with it as I will never let it go.
The comparison is little unfair. 600mm f4 is much faster and light gathering than 300f4 ( equivalent to 600f8). You should have compared with at least Nikon 600mm f6.3 which is faster and same weight than 300mm f4. Nikon 400 f/4.5 on a crop body is even cheaper and lighter and ff-equivalent to 600mm f6.75.
No it's not... the "f8" only affects depth of field.
@@chasingluminance And light gathering capability. Light gathering capability of a lens depend on physical diameter = focal length/f-stop. Diameter of 300mm f4 is 75mm same as 600mm f8. 600mm f/6.3 has more diameter. For mft, 300mm, f4, ISO 200, Shutter Speed 1/500 would be equal to ff 600mm f8, ISO 800, shutter speed1/500. See how I kept shutter speed and physical aperture (focal length/diameter) same. This allows same dof and same noise. ISO 200 on mft and 800 on ff would give almost same noise because same amoount of light is gathered. You can do the experiment yourself to verify or check some videos from Tony Northrup.
Nope, wrong again
@@chasingluminance can you point out what is wrong here? Btw, I have a phd in aerospace engineering and I understand lens optic. Not trying to brag, but when you say I’m wrong I expect some logical answer.
@@atanuhalder7750aerospace engineering and optics? Not seeing the connection here or are you assuming that the rest of us don’t have a science background therefore your tenuous connection to optical engineering trumps anything we have to say ?
Nice one. These lenses on a GH7 would be interesting.
For sure
Thank you Alex. I am purchasing the NOMAD this week. So this may be a silly question but is there an on/off switch on the NOMAD? Also - 35mm....looks like you got a lot in the frame. Can the NOMAD withstand the weight of a 70-200 f2.8? Again, thank you.
Yes and yes. The switch goes between north off and south. And it can handle a 70-200... maybe not 4 minute exposures, but it can do 30 seconds to 1 minute pretty well
You know you found the review you were looking for after the first two minutes. Of course I liked and subscribed immediately ! Keep up the good work!
Thank you!
I am about to watch this video, but I have some questions. If the video answers it, just ignore it. So I have a Star Adventurer 2i and a Pentax K1000 35mm film camera. How do you go about using the shutter release cable without shaking the camera? How do you expose for an hour and not wash out the image? I know you can astro mod a DSLR, would a film camera need a similar modification to get more Ha emission, or is that mod only relevant to DSLR's? I am sure I will have more questions. Thank you for your time.
Not going to watch the video because the title is ridiculous and you misspelled Canon.
Or did i?
This was a very helpful and interesting video! The differences in your comparison really seem rather small, which is quite surprising. However, I do think this is partly due to the time of day you were shooting, with a lot of bright and sunny pictures, as well as pictures where the subjects were quite far away. The 600mm f4 shines mostly in the early hours of the day and when it gets dark. I did notice that the highlights in the 300mm shots were often close to being blown out, while the 600mm shots maintained better exposure. You did make a great point about the differences between these setups being rather small given the enormous price difference. As I am a Canon shooter, I would always go with the 600mm f4 if I had the money, but right now, I am quite happy with my RF100-500, which is a fantastic compromise for Canon shooters.
The bear in the field was after sun dropped behind low heavy evening clouds and the owl and bison was dumping snow...
When you finish an alignment to Polaris... how you move camera to the object you want to capture? Once you move the camera, the Polaris alignment is gone.
I use the ball head on top of the tracker to adjust the orientation of the camera. This does not effect the alignment
The 300 in the the om1 is good but the bokeh and isolation on the the 600 is outstanding.
Truth
Isolation is a late concept in the history of photography. Photographers would try to get as large a depth of field as possible. Some super-pros like Salgado still advocate for this.
@@joaquintrigueros I like isolation sometimes. In closeup "animial portraits"
Alex, I am new to astrophotography but your video is very helpful! I'm working with a OM1-Mii. Lots to learn, lots of fun. Thanks!
Glad you enjoyed
It would have been nice to compare the ISOs used. I own a G9 and a G9 II. MFT is a great format to shoot birds because you get a greater depth of field. However the compromise is that, if you need to crop in, you will have to denoise the resulting image. Not a big deal but it's an additional step in my workflow. Finally the lighter, cheaper gear is a WIN_WIN for me. How about you? Looking forward to more content from you. :))
We did our best to use all the same settings... we missed it a few times.
Nicely done. You have inspired me to look at the invariance on my own R5.
Awesome
what a great review! The 300mm had a great showing.
Thank you!
Thanks for this video. How do you align the Nomad Star Tracker with Polaris when it is not visible during a hazy day or night sky?
The phone bracket would help
It's not magic. That 300mm f/4 is not a 600mm f/4 in any way. They may give you the same field of view in their respective formats, but they are NOT the same magnification. Conversely and strangely, nobody ever compares the formats in this way: The Nikon 400mm f/4.5 lens is a "field of view" 4/3 equivalent to a 200mm lens. If you're using a Nikon Z8 or Z9, you can crop your image to the 4/3 equivalent field of view of 400mm and still make a better print than you'd get from a print from that OM camera (it's been proven). So, via cropping, you have a considerably cheaper and lighter, theoretical 200mm - 400mm f/4.5 zoom lens. And no, I'm not a full frame or Nikon fan boy. I was very recently in the market for a completely new camera system, and had my choices narrowed down to OM Systems (because of the 150-400mm lens) and Nikon. I simply finally decided on Nikon for the above reasons.
Yes, 45.7 megapixels is more than 20.
@@chasingluminance, but here's the real kicker: Nikon Z8, 24-70 f/4, and 400 f/4.5 is 5.65 lbs and $7100.00 OM1 MkII, 12-45 f/4, and 150-400 f/4.5 is 5.85 lbs and $9500
@@PatrickSmeaton and I'd take the om1 set up every time
@@chasingluminance, oh and I forgot to mention that pixel peeping images/files of different sizes at 100% on a computer does not give you a real representation of the image quality. If they're both at 100%, the large image/file will be a larger photograph.
@PatrickSmeaton well obviously a sensor with more pixles will create a larger file. And you could see that represented in the images. A 100% on the cannon was not the same as a 100% on the O. M... but still the best way to compare them
I just returned from a trip to Europe and had the 300, 12-40, 40-150 and OM-1 plus other stuff in my carry-on backpack, weighing 7kg total.
Exactly
Bingo. MFT = Lots of capabilities in a very small and lightweight system. If you want the very best IQ and low light capabilities then FF is the route, but you will need more bulk/weight. Physics is physics. A larger sensor means more glass up front. Personally, the incremental difference in IQ between FF and MFT is not worth the extra weight, bulk, and cost IMO.
Nice and detailed ❤