Everything about Audio electronics and oldschool stuff. Stay tuned for Rockford Fosgate punch car audio Amplifier power tests ( amp dyno ) , repairs or restaurations of audio devices and reviews.
I am not only interested in car audio, i also like home hifi, vintage hifi, pro audio, speakerbuilding, home cinema theater stuff, subwoofers and bass loudspeaker design ( speaker building )
And also marine boat related topics of speedboats outboards inboards powerboats and performance propellers
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Old Fosgates are the shit. Newer ones don't compare. I used to run two 15's and two 8's of a Punch 45x2 back in the late 80's. Never tested the output, but it was loud as hell and the s ubs moved
I had Rockford Fosgate 300 4-channel. With fan built in it. And great power and sound the more you added the better it did.
I think you talk about early 90s RF amp? I never had one of these, but heard they are impressive 👍
Are all Hifonics amps so bad in efficiency ?
Around 60% or more is typical for a class AB amp I had tested so far. I tested other class AB amps which had >70% . Different thing is class D with more than 80%.
Strange the amp needs 55v to do 100+ watts..the power 650 rockford has 55 v rails and does 175 watts..that means the chinese hifonics amp is current limited.
I quickly checked this video and it looks like at 55 volts it does 175 Watts just like you're saying the power 650 does. So, it's basically the same power output at the same voltage. What exactly do you mean by the Hifonics being current limited? Do you mean a regulated power supply section?
@@JasonWW2000I need to rewatch the video..because you called to my attention ... I might have put my mouth in gear before my ears had the info..haha. about my ohms law based decision I can tell you that you can manipulate resistor values and design the amp to work better at different imp loads and also b+ voltage level..regulation is mostly unrelated . Thats where the designer picks a voltage ...and anything above that gets thrown away. The purpose of this is under load the voltage of a basic car will swing with the beat of the music..with regulated amps..it doesnt matter if the voltage swings from 12v-13.8..the amp will get ( 12v..) when in theory..a non regulated design..with an upgraded alt and wire and battery bank.. will work way better with 15v stable.. but you must have the power..or chances are..youll blow up the amp..and or smoke the woofer.
Nicht nur die Leistung ist eine wichtig Metrik, Klirrfaktor ist auch wichtig. Kann dein Oszi das messen?
Moin👋 Das stimmt natürlich , allerdings lasse ich das aus mehreren Gründen weg und teste nur bis zur clipping Grenze . Der erste Grund ist der Mehraufwand, mit fehlt einfach die Zeit. Der zweite Grund ist , dass ich mal einen selbsttest mit Musik durchgeführt hatte und musste mit erschrecken feststellen, dass ich es erst bei ca. 4% heraushören konnte. Bei purem Sinus natürlich eher. Dritter Grund ist, dass man mittels Ruhestrom Justage den Amp besser oder schlechter dastehen lassen kann also mehr ruhestrom: mehr Wärme aber weniger Verzerrungen. Daher: einfach ein paar Watt abziehen dann wird’s weniger 😂 ich habe das mal durchgeführt mit einem anderen Amp und bis zur Clip Grenze liegt man meistens unter 1%, das sieht bei den burst Messungen anders aus, da lasse ich bei den letzten cycles auch mal 5 gerade sein 😄
Good morning(dyno) 😂😂👍🆙️😉🥳
You're going to have to tell us how it sounds. What is your opinion on it?
Hey watch the video again - the sound test is also included 😂😂👍👍
@@audiokeller1975 You can't do a sound test through KZread due to its various forms of compression and manipulation. Plus the speakers I'm listening to it through are not exactly the greatest. I never understood why people think you can do a sound test over youtube. You literally can't. Especially not an amplifier test where it's very difficult to hear the subtle nuances. Basically all amplifiers sound the same through KZread.
My guess is that it's going to sound just fine considering it's a decently priced class A/B design.
That’s absolutely correct, the limitations of KZread make it impossible to tell how an amp sounds, you can just compare them all with this limitations. On the other side: room size and speaker placement will do much more differences than KZread can ever create and it’s also a different situation in a car especially in the deeper frequencies. All that was the reason I asked if I should quit the soundtests.
@@audiokeller1975he's asking you on your experience, how do you think the amp sounds? It sounds good as rockford?
I'm curious too😬😬😬😬👍🆙️
Great video! What is that electric box at 11:44 called and is idle current always done checking distortion or is that set by manufacturer for some amps ?
Thanks 😊 I think you mean my small power supply? With this thing I limit power consumption and check the idle current or do trouble shooting avoiding too much current flow if there’s still something defective. I don’t know how manufacturers set the bias. Sometimes Rockford set the bias a little high which is good for soundquality but generates more heat. Setting it lower just to the point where distortion disappears produces less heat. You can also set it without scoping the output signal but watching the idle current. Run the amp very hard after setting the bias and let it cool down if the amps bias isn’t drifting away all is fine 😀
@@audiokeller1975 awesome! Thanks
Servus kannst du mir einen Link schicken von den Widerständen schicken ?
Moin 👋 jetzt hast du mich erwischt, das ist schon sehr lange her. Ich suche mal aber das war in einem amerikanischen online Shop, der auch nach D liefert. Entweder mouser oder digikey..
Also der Hersteller nennt sich te connectivity , die Bezeichnung lautet für den 3.9 Ohm : te1000b3r9j , Musst du mal sehen wo du den herbekommst, preislich waren die ca. 70 bis 95€ pro Stück, den gibt es auch als 1 Ohm, aber ich habe die Rechnung nicht mehr.
I have two but one says punch, any other ones says power 360a2 and 360a11
@@zephmattix438 if there is the same amp with power instead of punch you have beefier power terminals and the filters have a slope of 24db instead of 12db.
I have two but one says punch, any other ones says power 360a2 and 360a11
Ich habe da so ein ähnliches Problem mit dem Airfryer des Typen HD9240. Er heißt aber der Lüfter will nicht laufen. Hab neue Platine geholt und auch neuen Motor der Motor bekommt auch Spannung läuft aber immer noch nicht woran kann es noch liegen?
Moin! Der Motor bekommt Spannung und läuft nicht? Ich hätte jetzt ein Relais vermutet, welches vermutlich den Motor ansteuert aber wenn Spannung da ist und sich der Motor nicht regt, liegt es am Motor - bist du dir ganz sicher mit der vorhandenen Spannung?
Die H 400 hatte ich auch mal im Auto. Ich weiß aber nicht mehr ob es die Esprit war oder eine andere Version. Ich mochte das Teil, auch schön anzusehen mit den Spiegeleitransistoren (TO-3 Bauform) und den LEDs auf dem Board. Danke für das Video!
Gern geschehen, die ist wirklich zu schade um sie versteckt zu montieren👍
i found two in my closet i bought new in 1999 or 2000 forgot i had never usedlol!
I dont do it like that. I put flux on the back of the fet and heat the strip slowly until i see the solder flow then i push the part down and hold the part on top with pick tool making sure its tight against the strip then I slowly let cool
I don't know if you're looking for advice or tips. A couple things I would do different would be to use a little more soldier under the mosfets so that you can clearly see it come out all sides. Second would be to use flux. The small amount of flux in your solder will quickly get burned away within a few seconds. Third would be to heat the mesha a bit slower so that the heat can more evenly spread. In the video it looks like you heated one area very quickly. Forth, be careful to not push down too firmly on those resistors. They are quite easy to snap in half. Good job. I've never really looked at this generation of amps. Internally it basically looks just like their older DSM and black and grind amps. Probably just a few small differences in the preamp. section.
All hints and tips are more than welcome 👍 I used multicore flux solder which I still own from the 90s 😄 to keep the video. Little shorter I made a cut , I heated the Mehsas slowly.
@@JasonWW2000 yes. Basically a dsm with xover .. and i agree..i never heat a part enought to melt solder on its tab..not directly. The part will be compromised..
Awesome video
Thank you ☺️
Wie cool ist denn bitte, bei der Reparatur dabei zu sein... Man fiebert richtig mit..zumindest ging mir das so😬 This Rockford Amp will survive for a long time... really good job, dude!!! Solche Videos kannst du gerne öfters machen... Meine besten Grüße auch an David Stevens 🫡
Thanks 😊
So if I understand it well, the amplifier puts out about 1000w rms at 8 ohms per channel?😳
Yes, both channels driven 950 Watts , single channel driven 1050 Watts 👍
Thanks for sharing this with us, always appreciated 👍 old school RF FTW
Very cool. Back in the 90s I was friends with a somewhat successful drug dealer who had a major car audio addict. Used to get all sorts of free stuuf from him because he was constantly upgrading and trying new stuff. GOt a couple of round 12" SoloBarics a Punch amp, and there was an MTX amp, forget the model, but it was a cheater amp and was designed by an engineer their hired away from Fostgate or maybe Kicker, used to really pound
Sounds like it was the MTX amp i really want to dyno - MTX thunder 2300 ? There is a nice video made by Dereck- oldschoolstereo.com
@@murrayshekelberg9754 the amp was to be the punch 300. But the designer went down the road to mtx and it bacame the ta2300..yup my friend john pleitz
@@audiokeller1975 I've been wanting to find a Thunder 2300! Great video btw, Loved seeing the repair process. I have a punch 100dsm that needs work.
@@jodyzung6455 what’s wrong with your 100DSM? Is it the older DSM or Punch 100 ix DSM ? The older ones feature additional boards with SMD devices on it. I had one of them repaired and it happens very often that the silver SMD capacitors leak out and create damage. They are 10uF 16V.
@@audiokeller1975 It's an original 100 DSM. I bought it used for cheap because the seller said one channel didn't work. That's all I know at the moment. I'll hook it up soon and see what happens. Hopefully I won't damage it further :)
Thanks for the cool video. I have a few 1995 punch amps that need repair, no burns on boards. I don't know what is wrong. Thank you for your informative videos.
Maybe mosfets?
MosFets, drivers - first check them properly to know if it’s worth fixing. In most cases it was worth it 👍
@audiokeller1do you have a video on how to check mosfets and drivers?, thank you buddy.
@jsnjcnt infinity think so , but it’s easy if you have an meter with diode check. Check MosFets and drivers at power supply section and also drivers and mosfets in output section. Get a small power supply with current limiting and limit the current to around 3-5 Amps. Connect amp and check how many amps it pulls. Turn all bias pots full ccw and recheck 👍
Ok, awesome I have a Fluke multimeter. I think it has diode check. I need to get a variable power supply. Thank you for the help.
Thought this video was about a Gpu
I don’t remember that hifonics made GPUs 🤔 I still own a 1080ti 👍😄
That's one damn good-looking gunshot of internals right there best quality built right there
Man you sure find some really good Rockford fosgate amps do people send you those in for free for you to do a dyno test on them do they donate the ants to you to keep?
This amp is from one of my best supporters and I love fixing them if still possible. Right now I am editing the repair video 👍😊
Dyno...dyno...dyno...😬😬😬 i'm really exited ...🥳🥁🥁🥁😎
I sink i can hear a german aksent
That’s correct 👍 More than 30 years ago in school was the last time trying to sound like a British or American guy 😂😂
I think you will fix it🤓👍🆙️
Does this amplifier say made in Korea?
I inspected the amp but there is no hint where it was made , just „ hifonics USA „ is printed on it
Ou ha..... da gab es mal einen Equilizer und Tuner(die hatten etwa die Größe einer Audio Kassette...nur dicker) je an einem Schwanenhals...und sollte um um bei 1985 gewesen sein. Also hast du da ein krass altes Teil... das war noch kurz vor meiner Car Audio Infizierung... Bin gespannt was da rauskommt wenn sie läuft...oder laufen wird Daumen werden gedrückt👍👍
😊
🤩✌️
I have several of these Infinity reference amps. I have this one in the video, I also have a 7541a brand new in the box. I also have BNIB a 7520a, and a 310a.
Can you show me inside please
I will send you pics when I am on the amp next time.
Rockford fosgate DSM amplifiers seemed like one of the best series. Along with the 25 to life series amplifiers. Another dream amp is the anniversary series 25 to life
I wish I will get a power series amp from very early 90s in future . I saw a test in a german car audio magazine and they called it something like perverted 😂👍
I have a 401s that I haven’t used for 20 years. I took off back plate. I saw these dials. I thought they were gains. Is there a way I can adjust these back to correct position without a scope?
Yes, there are several ways i tested and worked ok. Turn both pots completely counterclockwise. The first is by ear: get a frequency generator app and connect it to the amp, start with only one channel and apply a 50Hz signal for example. Adjust very slowly clockwise and stop after the sound sounds undistorted. Test again with a higher frequency. Then do the same with the other channel. Another method is that you turn the pot until you see a rise of 50mA for each channel. Example: amp pulls 1A if both pots are set completely counterclockwise. After adjusting the amp pulls 1.1 A. you can also measure DC milivolts over the big source resistors on the outputs, adjusting it to 1mV should be good enough. Hope that helps 👋
I’m actively looking for this model amp in the P8002 and P4004. Seeing how this video isn’t that old, I figured I’d ask you about them. Trying to recreate an old system I had in my Monte Carlo back in the day.
In my location they are even harder to find than the mid 90s RF amps. There is only one p4004 for sale. I guess they weren’t produced for a long time like the mid 90s amps. Good luck 👍
🤘🤘🤘 yeeah....👍🆙️
Guessing at 2 ohm mono it will punch around 1,000 watts dynamic minimum. Very unrated amplifiers
Underrated *
I have a few of these amps. I have the 6 channel, the 4 channel, and the mono. The 4 channel and the mono one I have are both BNIB.
I have one of those amps right now I had it repaired but I still don't get no sound the guy Jason at Freeman car audio in North Carolina don't want to deal with it no more
Yellow punchs are sweet man
What would you recommend to run with the peanut
Nice fan cooled like classic power 300 rockford
Haha..you do know that I worked at rockford back then and hand made amps and repaired returns..wheee. you just mentioned one of my children ..so to speak..
We really had fan cooling down pat..the rodek or anyone else cool all the parts evenly.. I would tell of secrets..but..I know every design and every designer from the past that mattered.. Thank you for this VIDEO PAGE!! you show the truth .
I think the first Rockfords amps which I know of back then were made in the mid 90s. I never heard of fan cooled amps made by Rockford, so I guess the earlier ones have fan cooling? Let me know more details, I am not here to teach, I am here to learn more about historic amps. I never saw a silver Rockford amp in person and I think I never will 🥲
@@audiokeller1975 the power 650 mosfet . And the power 300 mosfet..and soon after the power 1000..
kzread.info/dash/bejne/f3mpp8SufsXJeMY.htmlsi=-Q7mWRLIw7Msr7US
Drücke alle Daumen... 🤩🤩🤩 Bin gespannt was das Biest leisten wird👍🆙️🙋♂️🍻
Was there any particular reason the series 1 had red dust caps and white one's? I see the red one's most often (the one in your video) but not so much the white one's?
I also didn’t see any white ones, but sometimes they used dust caps which are heavier which affects the free air resonance which will go down if heavier cone or caps were used.
Lift the front of rca terminal and tin the brass tip thats broken..use a discarded leg from resistor and solder to the shield wrap it around end of board and solder to pad underneith the board. Done..I mod all amps with this terminal type
That sounds *really* good 😳 I usually can't be bothered with YT "sound tests", but man, that actually does sound as sweet as honey. That efficiency is almost unbelievable too. You would be pretty happy to own that beauty, I wouldn't waste it on running a sub
Thanks bro 👍 I usually see no sense of making soundtests because KZread crops the quality also a little bit. I made an opinion poll on soundtests here on KZread because I sometimes thought they are useless but most people seem to like it so I continue making soundtests. 😃
@@audiokeller1975 You must not only have a really good recording setup, but it tuned well too. To be able to really hear what the amp and speakers truly sound like, they have to be the worst quality products in the recording and playback pipeline, and I wouldn't think many viewers have a full separate component DAC + power amp + speaker setup. And even if you do have a somewhat nice high-ish end system, yes the KZread compression is pretty horrible to the audio. Well, I will say that Big D's (Williston Audio Lab) recordings of his Elac bookshelves on his amp listening tests have not a glint of the quality and character that I got from listening to your video. I don't know what speakers you are using but the tweeters seems super nice, airy and light, speedy, ribbon like but without the obvious lack of the lower end. Maybe it's the mastering of the song, but I doubt it. Keep the videos coming. I would also love to start a amplifier testing channel one day!
Back in the early 90s the Rodek amplifiers were expensive. The shop said they were very good. Sentrek was the low end and rodek was the high end at the shop.
I heard about Rodek speakers back then, they were a nice set for doors. But I never heard of Sentrek 🤔
@@audiokeller1975 sentrek was the cheap stuff. Well not cheap but cheaper than all the name brand stuff. Even flea market brand car audio was expensive then.
My 1997 power 500.2 does 340w@4ohm 675w@2ohm 1475w@4ohm bridged i never tried hooking it up to anything lower than it recommended ohm load.
There is another 500.2 out there with lower output power. I would love to dyno the bigger 500.2 but it’s hard to find ☹️
@@audiokeller1975 that would be the 500@2 it's 125 at 4 ohms 250 at 2 ohms 500 at 4 ohm bridged
@michaellarcom yes, and there is a 500.2 with 125W at 4 Ohms, check my dyno video of it , it’s a newer generation amp i guess around 2000-early 2000s 👍
Which power mosfet does it use please as in prime r150-2 you where repearing
I forgot it, sorry but if I remember correct I wasn’t on the MosFets, the fault was in the preamp section 🤔