Seems like the older series 80 chain needs you, the owner to oil it from a bottle of motor oil so it stoppes jumping. Used motor oil is fine.
@rancher96255 күн бұрын
I thank you for an interesting thought, but I can't find a reason to embrace the concept of used oil. Could it use more lube? Yes. If you have tried to use engine oil on chains, you have probably noted that it slings off, and the trend these days is to use the very thinnest oil to save fuel with an engine that has close tolerances. Chain Lube in a can or bottle has a very sticky nature to keep in on the chain, which is why motorcycles use a specific-purpose lubricant. Even heavy gear oil is better than engine oil because it will stay around a little longer. Used oil is no longer in service because it is no longer considered a good lubricant, and using that to avoid spending $5 on a machine worth thousands just not make economic sense.
@rancher96255 күн бұрын
The best practice to ensure chains operate optimally may be to lube them after a few (8?) hours of use and when the machine is stored between uses. Doing it before storage will keep condensation-based rust and corrosion at bay. If the storage is for a lengthy time, say over winter, another lube session before the season's first use would be very beneficial. Even with all of that, chains do stretch and will need replacement at some point. Hopefully it is a delayed point.
@Wonderboi671Ай бұрын
Well done Sir. Very helpful! Thank you.
@ThatNvidiaGpuАй бұрын
We where about to go get a new ignition and it fired right up, thanks for the video
@rancher9625Ай бұрын
So glad for you that you were able to find this beforehand.
@stevenpringle7813Ай бұрын
Outstanding video by the way.
@stevenpringle7813Ай бұрын
How many bales through your baler?
@stevenpringle7813Ай бұрын
I think you just said 10, 000
@toyotahilux22 ай бұрын
My old welger rp12 baled around 40,000 silage bales, my welger rp235 should do over 60,000, some mchale fusion balers have done 100,000 silage bales !! That's why no one hardly has new Holland balers here, built too light to last
@johnfranq4 ай бұрын
Hi great video, How did you determine whether the shim was required or not?
@rancher96254 ай бұрын
Good question. I assembled with the shim. When I tested the hub tightness, it was loose. Not terribly loose, but there was up/down play with the hub, which is equal to giving the top of the tire an in/out movement. This would mean that the upper and lower kingpins are too far apart. Remove the shim(s) and re-assemble to test again. Logically, I believe there should be zero movement, yet no stiffness with the hub in a "steering" motion which would indicate too tight. The kingpin bearings should not be subject to heat that would require a slight give like there is with a wheel bearing, therefore zero tolerance is desired.
@garywisdom1604 ай бұрын
Great video. Thank you.
@benjaminsowrheaver39908 ай бұрын
This may be common sense to some but don’t forget to take the belt off!!!
@WaylandHohertz-ph6fc9 ай бұрын
Do you know how too add presser to your bale tensioning systemi have a book it doesn’t explain it well it sure what size quick coupler is to make a hose
@rancher96259 ай бұрын
As I mentioned in the video, the bale tension system uses hydraulics, and is "closed" - meaning that it does not connect to your tractor. You may not need all of the details, but I will cover them here. First you connect that system to your tractor. I found a coupling behind the baler front pressure gauge (7:36). I purchased a special-sized coupling to match that connector, then made up a hydraulic hose with that special coupling and plugged the hose into my tractor SCV. From the tractor, I pressurized the baler's system, then released that pressure. Repeated that until I was certain there was no air left in the baler's hydraulics. I disconnected the special coupling. At this point, the system is ready to use. The valve in the rear of the baler (7:48) is used to control hydraulic pressure, thus control density. The more the valve is closed, the higher the hydraulic pressure. That pressure is shown by the front pressure gauge. It must never be completely closed. When the rear gate is opened (normal operating process via the tractor SCV), the pressure gauge shows the pressure setting, even when no bale is present.
@cedaroakfarm85969 ай бұрын
No need to drill if you use the nilight tube mounts, they are super.
@jacobfokkema964110 ай бұрын
🖒🖒🖒
@Coalbucketcd9111 ай бұрын
Would've been better if you were able to show removing the pump.
@johnjmcfarland321111 ай бұрын
what about the belt and pully?
@rancher962511 ай бұрын
I was hoping not to have to go to that level of detail. I take a 1/2" breaker bar and insert it into the tensioner pulley arm to relieve pressure, then pop the belt off. If you want video, I'm sure there are other YT videos for that.
@joshmackenzie9068 Жыл бұрын
Thank you, that was an excellent video
@powerram92 Жыл бұрын
I'm new to this hence why I'm watching this video. My question is if the chain is stretched enough can't you just take a link out and reset the tensioner?
@rancher9625 Жыл бұрын
Yes, that's possible. But a chain that has stretched will not fit the sprockets correctly, therefore the sprockets will wear faster. If the sprockets are worn enough, they can cause the chain to slip. You don't want to have to change the sprockets and chains.
@powerram92 Жыл бұрын
How do you know when a bearing goes bad or is on its way out?
@rancher9625 Жыл бұрын
Good question. Bad bearings would feel rough when turned, give off noise, or create heat. The first two symptoms would not be detectable on a running unit. I highly recommend an "infrared thermometer" gun. Harbor Freight sells them for $25. Run the baler for at least 15 minutes, then take the gun and point it at all of the bearings, looking for one that is warmer than the rest. A very common occurrence with balers is that they burn up in the field. For that, the cause is a bearing that has failed and gets so hot (red hot) that it ignites nearby hay dust or hay. Therefore a gun is a perfect tool to review bearing temperatures when stopped for a break or at the end of the day. I found a bad bearing by accident when I was brushing hay away from the chains and chain sprockets with my bare hand, therefore I could feel that one area was warmer than the rest.
@Lepercon777 Жыл бұрын
Thank you some nice camara shots of the cp3bolts.
@rancher9625 Жыл бұрын
You're welcome
@loganmanter9836 Жыл бұрын
Thanks man, great tips
@tylerhall6455 Жыл бұрын
Wondering with that nice machine and indoor shop you don't have air tools, mainly a air hammer to help you get this done? Thanks for the vid. Trying to prep for doing the front axle on my case 580 super k.
@rancher9625 Жыл бұрын
The tractor was at property with a roof-only barn. Regarding anything except a portable generator, I didn't think I needed other equipment, so I didn't haul the extras there for the work.
@eliseoebarahona9486 Жыл бұрын
Our Kubota 1100 has 2 filters in the back underneath the bed. I thought one of those was the oil filter...
@dougmiddaugh3472 Жыл бұрын
If you are referencing the filters in the very back where you have to take off a rear shied they are both hydraulic filters. I believe they are both for the transmission. The engine oil is not as obvious. Good video showing where it is.
@kennethperian4370 Жыл бұрын
Yes good job showing and telling,so if I get one like yours there I’ll know what to look for.and Thay sure are a lot of parts to look at thanks again for showing telling and keep up the good work showing will see ya next time see ya bye .
@raywilliams9808 Жыл бұрын
Not greaseable then?
@rancher9625 Жыл бұрын
Grease? - Yes and no. The bottom can be greased with the zerk fitting I added (see 5:45), but the main purpose is to be able to push grease through it to expel possible dirt or water because the bottom seal is no longer perfect. The top is to be greased then assembled, which is the original design. Apparently JD did not believe it necessary to add grease during the lifetime of the bearings, or that the need is very infrequent. The kingpin bearings only move when steering is turned. In comparison, axle bearings move all of the time, but they are similar in that they are only regreased periodically.
@danryan3146 Жыл бұрын
Great advice, thanks
@jacobgould2672 Жыл бұрын
Great tutorial
@rancher9625 Жыл бұрын
Thanks for the encouragement.
@markbyfield7050 Жыл бұрын
Thank you! Very informative 👍
@bumintheditch4960 Жыл бұрын
youtube to the rescue again - exactly what my problem was - thanks!
@johnsonfishin999 Жыл бұрын
I have a 7ft opener on my 8ft door i got a chamberlain PD752d 3/4 hp ac chaindrive i just took the stop bolt out and brought the travel up 6 inches and it only its 4 inches below the header it clears what i need it to clear and gets the job done flawlessly
@DavidJones-to5id Жыл бұрын
A big thanks for that tip. God Bless you!
@Barrelracer77 Жыл бұрын
How much oil do you put in?
@rancher9625 Жыл бұрын
I'm not sure which engine you have. But even without looking it up, I add an amount of oil that looks like less than what came out. Then pull out the dipstick, clean it off withe a rag or paper towel, insert back in all the way, remove it again but keep the tip horizontal, so oil on the stick does not run one way or another. Look carefully to see if it shows any signs of oil on the marks. Add more oil if it is not close to the Full mark. Repeat all of this until it is. Since your filter will be new, the filter will hold/take some of the new oil once the engine is restarted. Therefore, once I see the first signs of oil on the dipstick, I start the engine and make sure the oil pressure gauge shows pressure. But on the Kubota it is just a light, so wait until the light goes out, which should be around 15 seconds after starting. Turn off the engine. At that point the filter will be full of oil. I then finish filling to the level I just described.
@johnwoitena2924 Жыл бұрын
WOULD YOU KNOW THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE 644 AND 654 NEW HOLLAND BALER? GREAT VIDEO BY THE WAY
@rancher9625 Жыл бұрын
I do not know the difference. When I look for specs, both are 1994-1998 models, and the specs suggest more power to run the 654, but pickup width and bale size appear to be the same. Sometimes balers have an option for slicing - maybe that's the difference?
@xltsks43 Жыл бұрын
644 is 4x5 and 654 baler makes a 4x6 ft bale
@joshdressler136 Жыл бұрын
Another vote for this video, dude kicks ass!
@bigredjohnson6921 Жыл бұрын
I've done exact same thing, hose stays on and snake it through, I've also just cut that line on vehicles that I was replacing that line at same time. Great vid!
@bnorby213 Жыл бұрын
I’ve got a stripped out bolt on the regulator I need to change out…shoulda stuck to Cummins
@geojerome461 Жыл бұрын
Great video sir! But a word of caution....never use cinder blocks, we have seen many accidents and one death due to crushing blocks. They can even have a crack that you may not see, then fall apart under pressure. No disrespect, just concern. Thanks again.
@rancher9625 Жыл бұрын
Great point. That's why you see that I add jack stands under the axle.
@jgrudenicstrumpet4369 Жыл бұрын
Awesome and brilliant. Thank you.
@gtl099 Жыл бұрын
Great video, thanks! I too have something plugging up the tank, will have to remove it and see what it is. My RTV-X1100C its a 2015 model, do you know when the recall was issued?
@rancher9625 Жыл бұрын
I bought our in December - I am pretty sure it was 2014. It wasn't long before that recall came out - less than a year. However, I had the exact same plugging happening in 2021, long after I made this video. Therefore I can't blame the dealer for that one, so I guess I shouldn't blame them on whatever caused the plugging for this video.
@user-zx5nr2fc1i Жыл бұрын
Very good explain thank you alot for this really very useful advicied to baying used machine. Thank you again.
@chrisiglehart Жыл бұрын
Remove the inner fender well and the intercooler-to-turbo ductwork, it takes little effort and makes this job easier.
@rancher9625 Жыл бұрын
I ended up removing my pump three times. It took me more time to record the video than to do the job. The fender well and duct are untouched, so I do not understand how messing with them makes it easier.
@justinlepp967 Жыл бұрын
nice informative video. i need to watch yearly to remember it all. thank you
@steveperchinsky5833 Жыл бұрын
Hi so I pulled the fuel pick up tube on the out side of the tank and the screen on it was almost completely plugged its hard to believe the mower would even start at all, I Cleaned it all out and reinstalled the tube. Mower ran like a champ. Thanks for the input it helped.
@rancher9625 Жыл бұрын
Yep. Exactly.
@steveperchinsky5833 Жыл бұрын
Hi great video So my 997R starts, runs and after lets say 5 minutes it'll die down if i stop the deck it'll recover as though its looking for fuel i pumped out all the fuel, changed the screw on filter added diesel cleaner and it's still doing the same thing. is there another filter beside the screw on filter??
@rancher9625 Жыл бұрын
I think you missed the two places in the video that it mentions the screen in the tank. Might want to check that if you haven't addressed it.
@adie5271 Жыл бұрын
Thanks for this. I have the same issue. I've done some digging and have found I have diesel bug. I'd never heard of it.
@cortezarmandotoro Жыл бұрын
Wath year is please
@rancher9625 Жыл бұрын
CP3 was used 2001 to 2010. Mine is 2003.
@williampockoski5029 Жыл бұрын
Thank you for the information
@hubertrobinson8825 Жыл бұрын
Thanks for posting this video what I usually do is after disassembly I clean everything with brake cleaner and deglaze the metal parts with medium emory cloth
@saltybottom Жыл бұрын
Thank You !! Thank You!! I never would have looked there. Thank You ! Thank You!!
@genechronister7085 Жыл бұрын
Ouch
@jamesmorrison1884 Жыл бұрын
Hello good video. Your pto cover needs to be replaced. It's a working component that it not working like it is. Just a thought have a great day.
@rancher9625 Жыл бұрын
You're right. If replaced each time it is/would be damaged, I'd be replacing it a few times each year ... at $130+ each time. Instead, I avoid being in the area when it is turning.
@jamesmorrison1884 Жыл бұрын
@@rancher9625 Guess I'm just lucky I've never wrecked pto yet but have a great day thanks your reply
@justinwylie7957 Жыл бұрын
Thanks for taking the time to make this video! You just saved me lots of time. Thanks to your time I was able to diagnose the issue within minutes!
Пікірлер
Seems like the older series 80 chain needs you, the owner to oil it from a bottle of motor oil so it stoppes jumping. Used motor oil is fine.
I thank you for an interesting thought, but I can't find a reason to embrace the concept of used oil. Could it use more lube? Yes. If you have tried to use engine oil on chains, you have probably noted that it slings off, and the trend these days is to use the very thinnest oil to save fuel with an engine that has close tolerances. Chain Lube in a can or bottle has a very sticky nature to keep in on the chain, which is why motorcycles use a specific-purpose lubricant. Even heavy gear oil is better than engine oil because it will stay around a little longer. Used oil is no longer in service because it is no longer considered a good lubricant, and using that to avoid spending $5 on a machine worth thousands just not make economic sense.
The best practice to ensure chains operate optimally may be to lube them after a few (8?) hours of use and when the machine is stored between uses. Doing it before storage will keep condensation-based rust and corrosion at bay. If the storage is for a lengthy time, say over winter, another lube session before the season's first use would be very beneficial. Even with all of that, chains do stretch and will need replacement at some point. Hopefully it is a delayed point.
Well done Sir. Very helpful! Thank you.
We where about to go get a new ignition and it fired right up, thanks for the video
So glad for you that you were able to find this beforehand.
Outstanding video by the way.
How many bales through your baler?
I think you just said 10, 000
My old welger rp12 baled around 40,000 silage bales, my welger rp235 should do over 60,000, some mchale fusion balers have done 100,000 silage bales !! That's why no one hardly has new Holland balers here, built too light to last
Hi great video, How did you determine whether the shim was required or not?
Good question. I assembled with the shim. When I tested the hub tightness, it was loose. Not terribly loose, but there was up/down play with the hub, which is equal to giving the top of the tire an in/out movement. This would mean that the upper and lower kingpins are too far apart. Remove the shim(s) and re-assemble to test again. Logically, I believe there should be zero movement, yet no stiffness with the hub in a "steering" motion which would indicate too tight. The kingpin bearings should not be subject to heat that would require a slight give like there is with a wheel bearing, therefore zero tolerance is desired.
Great video. Thank you.
This may be common sense to some but don’t forget to take the belt off!!!
Do you know how too add presser to your bale tensioning systemi have a book it doesn’t explain it well it sure what size quick coupler is to make a hose
As I mentioned in the video, the bale tension system uses hydraulics, and is "closed" - meaning that it does not connect to your tractor. You may not need all of the details, but I will cover them here. First you connect that system to your tractor. I found a coupling behind the baler front pressure gauge (7:36). I purchased a special-sized coupling to match that connector, then made up a hydraulic hose with that special coupling and plugged the hose into my tractor SCV. From the tractor, I pressurized the baler's system, then released that pressure. Repeated that until I was certain there was no air left in the baler's hydraulics. I disconnected the special coupling. At this point, the system is ready to use. The valve in the rear of the baler (7:48) is used to control hydraulic pressure, thus control density. The more the valve is closed, the higher the hydraulic pressure. That pressure is shown by the front pressure gauge. It must never be completely closed. When the rear gate is opened (normal operating process via the tractor SCV), the pressure gauge shows the pressure setting, even when no bale is present.
No need to drill if you use the nilight tube mounts, they are super.
🖒🖒🖒
Would've been better if you were able to show removing the pump.
what about the belt and pully?
I was hoping not to have to go to that level of detail. I take a 1/2" breaker bar and insert it into the tensioner pulley arm to relieve pressure, then pop the belt off. If you want video, I'm sure there are other YT videos for that.
Thank you, that was an excellent video
I'm new to this hence why I'm watching this video. My question is if the chain is stretched enough can't you just take a link out and reset the tensioner?
Yes, that's possible. But a chain that has stretched will not fit the sprockets correctly, therefore the sprockets will wear faster. If the sprockets are worn enough, they can cause the chain to slip. You don't want to have to change the sprockets and chains.
How do you know when a bearing goes bad or is on its way out?
Good question. Bad bearings would feel rough when turned, give off noise, or create heat. The first two symptoms would not be detectable on a running unit. I highly recommend an "infrared thermometer" gun. Harbor Freight sells them for $25. Run the baler for at least 15 minutes, then take the gun and point it at all of the bearings, looking for one that is warmer than the rest. A very common occurrence with balers is that they burn up in the field. For that, the cause is a bearing that has failed and gets so hot (red hot) that it ignites nearby hay dust or hay. Therefore a gun is a perfect tool to review bearing temperatures when stopped for a break or at the end of the day. I found a bad bearing by accident when I was brushing hay away from the chains and chain sprockets with my bare hand, therefore I could feel that one area was warmer than the rest.
Thank you some nice camara shots of the cp3bolts.
You're welcome
Thanks man, great tips
Wondering with that nice machine and indoor shop you don't have air tools, mainly a air hammer to help you get this done? Thanks for the vid. Trying to prep for doing the front axle on my case 580 super k.
The tractor was at property with a roof-only barn. Regarding anything except a portable generator, I didn't think I needed other equipment, so I didn't haul the extras there for the work.
Our Kubota 1100 has 2 filters in the back underneath the bed. I thought one of those was the oil filter...
If you are referencing the filters in the very back where you have to take off a rear shied they are both hydraulic filters. I believe they are both for the transmission. The engine oil is not as obvious. Good video showing where it is.
Yes good job showing and telling,so if I get one like yours there I’ll know what to look for.and Thay sure are a lot of parts to look at thanks again for showing telling and keep up the good work showing will see ya next time see ya bye .
Not greaseable then?
Grease? - Yes and no. The bottom can be greased with the zerk fitting I added (see 5:45), but the main purpose is to be able to push grease through it to expel possible dirt or water because the bottom seal is no longer perfect. The top is to be greased then assembled, which is the original design. Apparently JD did not believe it necessary to add grease during the lifetime of the bearings, or that the need is very infrequent. The kingpin bearings only move when steering is turned. In comparison, axle bearings move all of the time, but they are similar in that they are only regreased periodically.
Great advice, thanks
Great tutorial
Thanks for the encouragement.
Thank you! Very informative 👍
youtube to the rescue again - exactly what my problem was - thanks!
I have a 7ft opener on my 8ft door i got a chamberlain PD752d 3/4 hp ac chaindrive i just took the stop bolt out and brought the travel up 6 inches and it only its 4 inches below the header it clears what i need it to clear and gets the job done flawlessly
A big thanks for that tip. God Bless you!
How much oil do you put in?
I'm not sure which engine you have. But even without looking it up, I add an amount of oil that looks like less than what came out. Then pull out the dipstick, clean it off withe a rag or paper towel, insert back in all the way, remove it again but keep the tip horizontal, so oil on the stick does not run one way or another. Look carefully to see if it shows any signs of oil on the marks. Add more oil if it is not close to the Full mark. Repeat all of this until it is. Since your filter will be new, the filter will hold/take some of the new oil once the engine is restarted. Therefore, once I see the first signs of oil on the dipstick, I start the engine and make sure the oil pressure gauge shows pressure. But on the Kubota it is just a light, so wait until the light goes out, which should be around 15 seconds after starting. Turn off the engine. At that point the filter will be full of oil. I then finish filling to the level I just described.
WOULD YOU KNOW THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE 644 AND 654 NEW HOLLAND BALER? GREAT VIDEO BY THE WAY
I do not know the difference. When I look for specs, both are 1994-1998 models, and the specs suggest more power to run the 654, but pickup width and bale size appear to be the same. Sometimes balers have an option for slicing - maybe that's the difference?
644 is 4x5 and 654 baler makes a 4x6 ft bale
Another vote for this video, dude kicks ass!
I've done exact same thing, hose stays on and snake it through, I've also just cut that line on vehicles that I was replacing that line at same time. Great vid!
I’ve got a stripped out bolt on the regulator I need to change out…shoulda stuck to Cummins
Great video sir! But a word of caution....never use cinder blocks, we have seen many accidents and one death due to crushing blocks. They can even have a crack that you may not see, then fall apart under pressure. No disrespect, just concern. Thanks again.
Great point. That's why you see that I add jack stands under the axle.
Awesome and brilliant. Thank you.
Great video, thanks! I too have something plugging up the tank, will have to remove it and see what it is. My RTV-X1100C its a 2015 model, do you know when the recall was issued?
I bought our in December - I am pretty sure it was 2014. It wasn't long before that recall came out - less than a year. However, I had the exact same plugging happening in 2021, long after I made this video. Therefore I can't blame the dealer for that one, so I guess I shouldn't blame them on whatever caused the plugging for this video.
Very good explain thank you alot for this really very useful advicied to baying used machine. Thank you again.
Remove the inner fender well and the intercooler-to-turbo ductwork, it takes little effort and makes this job easier.
I ended up removing my pump three times. It took me more time to record the video than to do the job. The fender well and duct are untouched, so I do not understand how messing with them makes it easier.
nice informative video. i need to watch yearly to remember it all. thank you
Hi so I pulled the fuel pick up tube on the out side of the tank and the screen on it was almost completely plugged its hard to believe the mower would even start at all, I Cleaned it all out and reinstalled the tube. Mower ran like a champ. Thanks for the input it helped.
Yep. Exactly.
Hi great video So my 997R starts, runs and after lets say 5 minutes it'll die down if i stop the deck it'll recover as though its looking for fuel i pumped out all the fuel, changed the screw on filter added diesel cleaner and it's still doing the same thing. is there another filter beside the screw on filter??
I think you missed the two places in the video that it mentions the screen in the tank. Might want to check that if you haven't addressed it.
Thanks for this. I have the same issue. I've done some digging and have found I have diesel bug. I'd never heard of it.
Wath year is please
CP3 was used 2001 to 2010. Mine is 2003.
Thank you for the information
Thanks for posting this video what I usually do is after disassembly I clean everything with brake cleaner and deglaze the metal parts with medium emory cloth
Thank You !! Thank You!! I never would have looked there. Thank You ! Thank You!!
Ouch
Hello good video. Your pto cover needs to be replaced. It's a working component that it not working like it is. Just a thought have a great day.
You're right. If replaced each time it is/would be damaged, I'd be replacing it a few times each year ... at $130+ each time. Instead, I avoid being in the area when it is turning.
@@rancher9625 Guess I'm just lucky I've never wrecked pto yet but have a great day thanks your reply
Thanks for taking the time to make this video! You just saved me lots of time. Thanks to your time I was able to diagnose the issue within minutes!