Thanks for sharing. What is the liquid that you are spraying?
@QUIX4U7 сағат бұрын
OK, how's about what a homeowner (not a plmber) can do, after discovering PB is the grey plastic piping used extensively throughout this 1946 house, that we bought in 2003, that obviously will need to be replaced by either copper, (which splits if frozen, like it does here in Central Otago) or PEX which I know stuff all about, except to know it's far better than PB. I know that a simple replacement of all the PB pipework underneath (yes I did say underneath) the TWO (wetback boosted) Hot Water Cylinders, a 180 electric with a 4kW booster wetback (from a 16kW Logfire) - and a standard 135L electric, coupled together so that either can be the main cylinder for the house (with the other stopcocked off, and even drained to replace the elements if needed, or simply drained if not to be used for some time, such as through a long cold (potentially frosty) winter, if the house was left unoccupied in the depths of winter.. Or they can BOTH be run in series/parrallel, when the 4 stopcocks are opened totally (two above and two below) allowing both to be controlled either by one element, both elements, or just the wtback (if the fire is driven hard on cold day/nights. The situation often arises where the hot water CIRCULATES from the top of the wetback 4kW cylinder across into the top of the 135L to push colder water out the bottom, back across to the inlet of the 180L to replace the heated water that went out the top pipe. NOW, when it all gets superheated and starts to BOIL iside both cylinders, as well as pulsate roof vented spurts, I KNOW the PB underneath the two cylinders - has often had extremely hot water running along that pipework. I only just found out a couple of nights ago, that when I told the plumber 20 years ago - to install the copper pipe I had already BOUGHT for the job, (myself) he refused to use it stating that this plastic pipe was the recommended pipework for the freeezing conditions we have here in central Otago (yet made no mention that PB was to NEVER be used anywhere near any HWC's, nor on a self-reticulating boiling water circuit, below two large cylinders (interconnected to freeflow between themselves). I knew at the time, he was a nearly retired stubborn old sod, but what can you do? You need a registered plumber, so have to abide by their recomendations. He couldn't give a stuff, as he was about to retire (and died several years after that - so getting any gaurantee back from him now, is impossible) We thus have PB underneath a new concrete floor (well it was new in 2003/2004) which feeds the mains from the street, to the pressure reducing valve and "all" of the interconnecting pipework & cylinder drain pipework, underneath a barely accessible space underneath both cylinders of about ? 350mm max. Laid down on one's side, trying to fix any problem such as cleaning the rust/grit out of the inlet valve strainer, is so bad my arthritis gives me hell for days afterwards. I'd hate to have to redo all that pipework in PEX (even if fit enough, which I am not, even if I could as a "not a plumber" could maybe do, so a plumber would need to do all that. Possible yes, but very expensive. THEN, there is all the HOT & COLD pipework that comes from the rising mains that enters underneath the laundry sink, and which goes underneath the wall/floor of the next-room zero (below floor) crawl-space, wet area shower "room" and up the wall into the dual mixer for the shower pipework above? Then it goes all the way underneath the wet area shower, or maybe it goes around the stone wall, behind the wet area shower panels (I don't know) to come up into the back of the washbasin, (then thanfully it comes via flex hoses to the new mixer sink tap) but the COLD - also continues on around the far wall, to exit via a small hole below the toilet cistern's tank, then upstands a piece of PB and elbows into the float valve... NO TAP to turn the tolet cistern feed off, to replace anything in the cistern itself, (float seal or rubber gaskets etc) So maybe it will be a MASSIVE undertaking, to route the piping where it used to go, or maybe we could "surface run" PEX so that we don't have to replace an entire three walls of the walk-in-shower's wet-area. Your thoughts coud prove invaluable. Oh & we are two older type superannuitants, without extensive finances behind us, yet all our current bills are (mostly) paid off... It's just that now with every rising cost and our rates increasing over 35% this year - our cashflow isn't very good, if it flows at all....
@Kweesh16 сағат бұрын
I love bbq on my own dick
@keesheaslip4966Күн бұрын
I go to blenim school and my name is kees
@ellengarcia4041Күн бұрын
Thats NOT a laundray MAKEOVER!!!
@Mental_EggКүн бұрын
That is a laundry flat!!
@lisaschreiber2893Күн бұрын
great job! ❤
@mitre10nzКүн бұрын
Glad you like it! ^Cam
@Red_zookeeperКүн бұрын
you have cool trolleys
@willholland3886Күн бұрын
Stans the man
@alikorkmaz97322 күн бұрын
Doesn't the tree pole rot?
@metv68583 күн бұрын
Brilliant work sir 👌🏻
@mitre10nzКүн бұрын
Thank you! Cheers! ^Cam
@Curraghchase4 күн бұрын
I like the way he says deck. I have the humor of a 10-year-old.
@Outright_Mike4 күн бұрын
Thank you from Canada 🇨🇦
@sab3arisas4 күн бұрын
Who in nz has a laundry room that big? Mine is tiny! And others are in garages
@joseelie87534 күн бұрын
Useful video
@mitre10nz4 күн бұрын
Glad you think so! ^Cam
@mitre10nz4 күн бұрын
Another awesome community project with a local store. Here's Mitre 10 Mega Henderson, teaming up with The Kindness Collective & Mitre 10 Helping Hands
@willholland38865 күн бұрын
This is a big laundry room!
@sammysmith57925 күн бұрын
Could u do a laundry room a quarter of this size. I can’t relate to this one
@brumby925 күн бұрын
Her accent is so charming.
@koolguyIII5 күн бұрын
Where does the drainage tube go? It didn’t look like you sloped it anywhere…
@mitre10nz4 күн бұрын
We've had ground water drainage installed behind the wall with a drain layer, this is required for block walls over 3 layers, or around 300mm high. ^Cam
@atalbiharibaddar93127 күн бұрын
Very impressive style and a professional video explaining installation. Keep it up.
@mitre10nz4 күн бұрын
Thank you very much! ^Cam
@Hades_Z38 күн бұрын
they where in my scool
@raulfuasa30218 күн бұрын
Nice
@blackstumpdrilling11 күн бұрын
Have you got a video on installing a Weiss home ventilation system ?
@mitre10nz10 күн бұрын
We love the suggestion, we'll pass this idea onto the team! ^Cam
@BeyondPL00112 күн бұрын
Every things are great Except the plastering No body will except that bro because you should do another two coat after the paint 😅
@mitre10nz11 күн бұрын
3 coats of setting compound, with some sanding and it's ready to paint! Would never do it over paint! ^Cam
@dimap8112 күн бұрын
This video unjustly leaves out older users, whose decks are not hard wood anymore!
@mitre10nz11 күн бұрын
What style of decks would you like to see? ^Cam
@dimap8111 күн бұрын
@@mitre10nz sorry, that was an attempt at a joke, because "deck" sounds a bit ambiguous with your accent :) the video is excellent, do not pay attention to me.
@muhammadyounas234614 күн бұрын
But this type of spring is not available in Pakistan😮
@QUIX4U14 күн бұрын
OK, so what about one that' positione at the END of a 7.5M wide building, that is no more than 4M to the BASE of a very high concrete wall, on top of which is an extra height corrugated iron rence? Making the pad at the end of the house 4x 7.5 = 30sq M exactly. The PERGOLA would thus be UNDER the height of the top of the fence, (which borders a road/street) and thus is thoroughly inside the confines of the property at the end of the house, meaning it's height "above" any existing structure would be a MINUS figure, so could it therefore butt hard up against the base of the concrete wall itself? The top of the wall "leans towards the road, as it is NOT a parallel structure, but wider at it's base and thinner at the top of the concrete which is a minimum (up there) of 150mm on top of which sits a 125mm thick post and corrugated iron fence. The concrete pad (as that's all that grows there) is fully from the house to the base of the concrete, (4M) with a faint fall towards the wall, so that rain/snow etc cannot drain towards the house, but away from it, to then run down along a gutter at the wall, before draining down the driveway away from the wall, past the house, into the back garden where it soaks in. We also get rain draining in from the street, to join at the end of the wall. As an aside, as I am now in a wheelchair, so we "park" the car such that I can transfer from the car into the house (as easily as possible with one leg), to get into my "chair" inside the door. Oh and the view is irrelevant as there is a dirty great MOUNTAIN directly across the road from the house so sunlight/sky views aren't all that great after 4pm. So having a pergola "blocking" that view is also irrelevant. Nothing on the hill, except scrubby bushes, lots of rabbits, a few tame and stray cats and farmed GOATS, yeah they run goats on there as it's too steep for anything else. Hence why we wanted a pergola (roofed with clearlight) to avoid the adverse weather when I go to & from the car/wheelchair. Thus - what's your view? 30square meters at the maximum, footed directly onto an existing pad, Oh and yes, we are resident in the best part of NZ - at it's mainland center.
@nickanthony9015 күн бұрын
Wow measuring in metric sounds so much easier than our retarded American standard system. Half of one meter = 500 millimeters vs half of one foot = 6 inches. Who makes up this dumb shit?
@ryangleeson591615 күн бұрын
The stickers telling me the right side up have come off in storage. Is there a way of knowing what the correct way up is now ?
@mitre10nz11 күн бұрын
Best to check with your in-store team to get the right answer for you Ryan! ^Cam
@miiitchhh22515 күн бұрын
For a sheeid
@mbmii177818 күн бұрын
Legend fella
@zenithnardin18 күн бұрын
Not very happy putting the wood straight in the concrete
@rocknrobin402218 күн бұрын
If you get a driving wind its going to push water right up under that flashing, theres no sealed water barrier that I seen installed 😮
@mitre10nz18 күн бұрын
Full guide: www.mitre10.co.nz/guides-and-advice/guide/how-to-pick-the-right-drill-bit
@tamanimaiesia534418 күн бұрын
Mr. Rightyio!
@tonycooper368719 күн бұрын
Thank you so much for putting your valuable time to show us & i totally agree with the comment made by @pinkows 6 years ago . Thank you again keep up the good work. Ben from downunder 😉
@mitre10nz15 күн бұрын
You are so welcome, thanks so much for watching Ben! ^Cam
@willholland388619 күн бұрын
What ever happened to this guy he is great
@minxythemerciless24 күн бұрын
5mm fall in 10m?!! The standard is 1:500 so 1cm in 5m
@AridersLifeYT21 күн бұрын
depends on the country
@dilligaf238625 күн бұрын
So is it safe to rest the splashback on the worktop I'm reading you shouldn't some say its OK?
@mitre10nz22 күн бұрын
As long as there isn't any freestanding appliances like an oven, then you should be sweet! Just need to ensure your bench can hold up the weight of your splash-back :) ^Cam
@Mr.C-Mister25 күн бұрын
So the hinge portion goes against the post and the tongue sticks out. I thought that it would go in the middle of both of them. Great video.
@dimsumlite26 күн бұрын
5:32 "Off my dick" Thank me later.
@brackishnz26 күн бұрын
very nice, def wouldn't call it easy as tho
@brackishnz26 күн бұрын
Wanting to build a medieval gothic style cathedral? It's easy as, you can knock one up in a few years.
@brackishnz26 күн бұрын
Looks great, but she aint gonna be cheap with that many blocks
@James-mv9qx27 күн бұрын
Do I put the dead mice underneath or on top of the insulation? Instructions unclear
@jessthebarber28 күн бұрын
Off your what 5:32
@solaceten770728 күн бұрын
I did this and it is really nice to be able to transfer the heat, however, the wood fire does generate a fair amount of smoke and dust / soot which is normal for any wood fire. To try to counter this, I installed a 2mm carbon filter screen at the lounge inlet vent, so that it won't suck up the dust and soot and smoke. It worked great, BUT after doing that I noticed the system heat transfer is about 50% less effective. Basically, anything filtering the air reduces the heat transfer - so you have a choice to make, transfer everything including the soot, or transfer the cleaner air, but only half the heat... ;-( Overall, this system is not really ideal - but it is cheap. If you can afford it I would recommend a better way to go with clean heat pumps ducted. More expensive, but cleaner.
Пікірлер
Thanks for sharing. What is the liquid that you are spraying?
OK, how's about what a homeowner (not a plmber) can do, after discovering PB is the grey plastic piping used extensively throughout this 1946 house, that we bought in 2003, that obviously will need to be replaced by either copper, (which splits if frozen, like it does here in Central Otago) or PEX which I know stuff all about, except to know it's far better than PB. I know that a simple replacement of all the PB pipework underneath (yes I did say underneath) the TWO (wetback boosted) Hot Water Cylinders, a 180 electric with a 4kW booster wetback (from a 16kW Logfire) - and a standard 135L electric, coupled together so that either can be the main cylinder for the house (with the other stopcocked off, and even drained to replace the elements if needed, or simply drained if not to be used for some time, such as through a long cold (potentially frosty) winter, if the house was left unoccupied in the depths of winter.. Or they can BOTH be run in series/parrallel, when the 4 stopcocks are opened totally (two above and two below) allowing both to be controlled either by one element, both elements, or just the wtback (if the fire is driven hard on cold day/nights. The situation often arises where the hot water CIRCULATES from the top of the wetback 4kW cylinder across into the top of the 135L to push colder water out the bottom, back across to the inlet of the 180L to replace the heated water that went out the top pipe. NOW, when it all gets superheated and starts to BOIL iside both cylinders, as well as pulsate roof vented spurts, I KNOW the PB underneath the two cylinders - has often had extremely hot water running along that pipework. I only just found out a couple of nights ago, that when I told the plumber 20 years ago - to install the copper pipe I had already BOUGHT for the job, (myself) he refused to use it stating that this plastic pipe was the recommended pipework for the freeezing conditions we have here in central Otago (yet made no mention that PB was to NEVER be used anywhere near any HWC's, nor on a self-reticulating boiling water circuit, below two large cylinders (interconnected to freeflow between themselves). I knew at the time, he was a nearly retired stubborn old sod, but what can you do? You need a registered plumber, so have to abide by their recomendations. He couldn't give a stuff, as he was about to retire (and died several years after that - so getting any gaurantee back from him now, is impossible) We thus have PB underneath a new concrete floor (well it was new in 2003/2004) which feeds the mains from the street, to the pressure reducing valve and "all" of the interconnecting pipework & cylinder drain pipework, underneath a barely accessible space underneath both cylinders of about ? 350mm max. Laid down on one's side, trying to fix any problem such as cleaning the rust/grit out of the inlet valve strainer, is so bad my arthritis gives me hell for days afterwards. I'd hate to have to redo all that pipework in PEX (even if fit enough, which I am not, even if I could as a "not a plumber" could maybe do, so a plumber would need to do all that. Possible yes, but very expensive. THEN, there is all the HOT & COLD pipework that comes from the rising mains that enters underneath the laundry sink, and which goes underneath the wall/floor of the next-room zero (below floor) crawl-space, wet area shower "room" and up the wall into the dual mixer for the shower pipework above? Then it goes all the way underneath the wet area shower, or maybe it goes around the stone wall, behind the wet area shower panels (I don't know) to come up into the back of the washbasin, (then thanfully it comes via flex hoses to the new mixer sink tap) but the COLD - also continues on around the far wall, to exit via a small hole below the toilet cistern's tank, then upstands a piece of PB and elbows into the float valve... NO TAP to turn the tolet cistern feed off, to replace anything in the cistern itself, (float seal or rubber gaskets etc) So maybe it will be a MASSIVE undertaking, to route the piping where it used to go, or maybe we could "surface run" PEX so that we don't have to replace an entire three walls of the walk-in-shower's wet-area. Your thoughts coud prove invaluable. Oh & we are two older type superannuitants, without extensive finances behind us, yet all our current bills are (mostly) paid off... It's just that now with every rising cost and our rates increasing over 35% this year - our cashflow isn't very good, if it flows at all....
I love bbq on my own dick
I go to blenim school and my name is kees
Thats NOT a laundray MAKEOVER!!!
That is a laundry flat!!
great job! ❤
Glad you like it! ^Cam
you have cool trolleys
Stans the man
Doesn't the tree pole rot?
Brilliant work sir 👌🏻
Thank you! Cheers! ^Cam
I like the way he says deck. I have the humor of a 10-year-old.
Thank you from Canada 🇨🇦
Who in nz has a laundry room that big? Mine is tiny! And others are in garages
Useful video
Glad you think so! ^Cam
Another awesome community project with a local store. Here's Mitre 10 Mega Henderson, teaming up with The Kindness Collective & Mitre 10 Helping Hands
This is a big laundry room!
Could u do a laundry room a quarter of this size. I can’t relate to this one
Her accent is so charming.
Where does the drainage tube go? It didn’t look like you sloped it anywhere…
We've had ground water drainage installed behind the wall with a drain layer, this is required for block walls over 3 layers, or around 300mm high. ^Cam
Very impressive style and a professional video explaining installation. Keep it up.
Thank you very much! ^Cam
they where in my scool
Nice
Have you got a video on installing a Weiss home ventilation system ?
We love the suggestion, we'll pass this idea onto the team! ^Cam
Every things are great Except the plastering No body will except that bro because you should do another two coat after the paint 😅
3 coats of setting compound, with some sanding and it's ready to paint! Would never do it over paint! ^Cam
This video unjustly leaves out older users, whose decks are not hard wood anymore!
What style of decks would you like to see? ^Cam
@@mitre10nz sorry, that was an attempt at a joke, because "deck" sounds a bit ambiguous with your accent :) the video is excellent, do not pay attention to me.
But this type of spring is not available in Pakistan😮
OK, so what about one that' positione at the END of a 7.5M wide building, that is no more than 4M to the BASE of a very high concrete wall, on top of which is an extra height corrugated iron rence? Making the pad at the end of the house 4x 7.5 = 30sq M exactly. The PERGOLA would thus be UNDER the height of the top of the fence, (which borders a road/street) and thus is thoroughly inside the confines of the property at the end of the house, meaning it's height "above" any existing structure would be a MINUS figure, so could it therefore butt hard up against the base of the concrete wall itself? The top of the wall "leans towards the road, as it is NOT a parallel structure, but wider at it's base and thinner at the top of the concrete which is a minimum (up there) of 150mm on top of which sits a 125mm thick post and corrugated iron fence. The concrete pad (as that's all that grows there) is fully from the house to the base of the concrete, (4M) with a faint fall towards the wall, so that rain/snow etc cannot drain towards the house, but away from it, to then run down along a gutter at the wall, before draining down the driveway away from the wall, past the house, into the back garden where it soaks in. We also get rain draining in from the street, to join at the end of the wall. As an aside, as I am now in a wheelchair, so we "park" the car such that I can transfer from the car into the house (as easily as possible with one leg), to get into my "chair" inside the door. Oh and the view is irrelevant as there is a dirty great MOUNTAIN directly across the road from the house so sunlight/sky views aren't all that great after 4pm. So having a pergola "blocking" that view is also irrelevant. Nothing on the hill, except scrubby bushes, lots of rabbits, a few tame and stray cats and farmed GOATS, yeah they run goats on there as it's too steep for anything else. Hence why we wanted a pergola (roofed with clearlight) to avoid the adverse weather when I go to & from the car/wheelchair. Thus - what's your view? 30square meters at the maximum, footed directly onto an existing pad, Oh and yes, we are resident in the best part of NZ - at it's mainland center.
Wow measuring in metric sounds so much easier than our retarded American standard system. Half of one meter = 500 millimeters vs half of one foot = 6 inches. Who makes up this dumb shit?
The stickers telling me the right side up have come off in storage. Is there a way of knowing what the correct way up is now ?
Best to check with your in-store team to get the right answer for you Ryan! ^Cam
For a sheeid
Legend fella
Not very happy putting the wood straight in the concrete
If you get a driving wind its going to push water right up under that flashing, theres no sealed water barrier that I seen installed 😮
Full guide: www.mitre10.co.nz/guides-and-advice/guide/how-to-pick-the-right-drill-bit
Mr. Rightyio!
Thank you so much for putting your valuable time to show us & i totally agree with the comment made by @pinkows 6 years ago . Thank you again keep up the good work. Ben from downunder 😉
You are so welcome, thanks so much for watching Ben! ^Cam
What ever happened to this guy he is great
5mm fall in 10m?!! The standard is 1:500 so 1cm in 5m
depends on the country
So is it safe to rest the splashback on the worktop I'm reading you shouldn't some say its OK?
As long as there isn't any freestanding appliances like an oven, then you should be sweet! Just need to ensure your bench can hold up the weight of your splash-back :) ^Cam
So the hinge portion goes against the post and the tongue sticks out. I thought that it would go in the middle of both of them. Great video.
5:32 "Off my dick" Thank me later.
very nice, def wouldn't call it easy as tho
Wanting to build a medieval gothic style cathedral? It's easy as, you can knock one up in a few years.
Looks great, but she aint gonna be cheap with that many blocks
Do I put the dead mice underneath or on top of the insulation? Instructions unclear
Off your what 5:32
I did this and it is really nice to be able to transfer the heat, however, the wood fire does generate a fair amount of smoke and dust / soot which is normal for any wood fire. To try to counter this, I installed a 2mm carbon filter screen at the lounge inlet vent, so that it won't suck up the dust and soot and smoke. It worked great, BUT after doing that I noticed the system heat transfer is about 50% less effective. Basically, anything filtering the air reduces the heat transfer - so you have a choice to make, transfer everything including the soot, or transfer the cleaner air, but only half the heat... ;-( Overall, this system is not really ideal - but it is cheap. If you can afford it I would recommend a better way to go with clean heat pumps ducted. More expensive, but cleaner.
EXCELLENT
Thank you Phillip, cheers!
Always clean your pin hole!