Cornhole Collective is your spot to find more instructional videos on making bad ass cornhole boards than you knew you wanted. If you'd rather order some nice custom boards than make them yourself, head over to Instagram and message us @MossBoards or @BurlyBags.
Enjoy!
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I can't seem to get past air bubbles when using polycrylic and poly urethane, any tips???
Great video!
Thanks for a great video! I’m finishing my second set of boards. I’m amazed how easy you make it look drilling through your side boards free hand. I’m finding variation in the holes angle from side to side will make the crossbrace not fit flat on each leg.
100% if the bolt holes aren’t exactly the same and the holes in the legs aren’t exactly the same, the leg angles will be off and the brace will make them wonky.
@@cornholecollective7116 so you have calibrated drill skills? Starting the hole exactly x amount from end frame is simple enough but drilling through the side frame exactly 90 degrees free hand seems dubious. Guess I'd expect you'd drill them on the drill press before frame assembly??
Once you get it finished with the stain do you need to seal it with anything to help protect it from weather if left outside? Also did you pull off the vinyl while the stain was wet or wait until it is dry. Just purchased my first set and wanting to put out initials (both of ours are the same once married) and use at our wedding.
Congrats! Definitely seal the set when all the decoration is done. Recommend water based sealer like Minwax Polycrylic or Rustoleum Parks Pro Finisher. Lots of coats. There are some videos I posted about finishing steps. You can pull the stencil right after staining or painting if you’re using gel stains or acrylic paint. No need to wait. You do need to let it fully dry before using the liquid clear coat.
Would this method of sealing work over sharpie?
I’d suggest spraying a water based poly first then the liquid over that. Try a test piece first. It’s what I always use the hole cutouts for. Should be good.
I use a 6 inch hole saw. I don't know why people have so much trouble with it? They might be pushing down too hard? I use little down pressure, cut halfway down. Flip the board over & cut the rest. No tear out...easy peasy. 😉
Nothing wrong with a hole saw.
Great video series! What is the price in 2024 for a Raider board set as shown here?
Not selling boards lately. A good builder with nice custom bags would probably be around $350-$400
The "semi-gloss" at the end...is that different than the polyurethane you showed in the beginning?
What type of vinyl are you using for your stencils?
Do you lightly stain the entire board and then put the stencil down and make the image a darker stain? If I did this should I use the gel stain for all of it?
Staining over stain doesn’t work too well. Stains tend to “seal” the wood and the next coat smears a bit. It can be done if the first coat is really light and the next is very dark. I prefer to do the opposite, staining the dark image first let it dry a long while then stain the “background” and over top of the dark image.
STUPID MUSIC!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Awesome video Scott! When you were aligning the mountain stencil over the MOSS you already did were you eyeballing it or did you have registration marks? Also what was the clear transfer tape you used? I've only seen the white. Sorry last question. What vinyl software you use and was it hard to learn?
Howdy! You can find clear reusable transfer tape at hobby lobbybor Michaels. I don't live how high-tack it is hutbit helps to align intricate stencils. This particular design was all one stencil. i use VinylMaster software, it came with my UsCutter machine.
@@cornholecollective7116 did you just eyeball the alignment then or have registration marks? Thanks for all the info!
I have a stencil I was planning on using but this looks way better to prevent bleed through. Do you sell this sticker stencil?
Hi! You van find lots of builders who also sell stencils at cornholecollective.com/friends
Nice 👍🏻 does it matter what direction you cut the plywood for the side rails?
Not really. Especially with very blond plywood like baltic.
First of all love your videos and thanks. I've just fully stained my boards and will be applying stencils so I can paint. Should I apply stencils right on the stained board and paint or add a coat of poly first before stencil/paint.
I think you’re applying decals to a stained board, that’s totally fine. If you’re applying stencils as a mask to paint designs over a stained background, it’s best to poly first to protect the stained area. The mask can pull up some of the stained wood fibers when you remove it. Hope this helps!
This video might have been only 1 hr if alot of the BS talking was left out. To me this video got very boring.
Thanks for the feedback, what’s your channel? I’ll check that out and give you feedback.
Damn love this so much!!!
Super helpful. Thank you.
Did you do this all in one day or was this multiple days
That was all a single take. :) poly over speeds up the process a lot.
I’ve made a wooden rail jig. I like your idea better. Thank you.
Is it possible to use a glass enamel paint and get a slick? Enough surface, or can you go over the gloss? Enamel paint with polyuresin the enamel paint is an oil base
This is a tricky one because you’ll want to seal the board with poly and poly doesn’t adhere to glossy paint well. It might appear to hut in no time the layers over the glossy area will peel up and look terrible. The glossy paint doesn’t make a lot of sense considering the whole board will have to have the same sheen for the bags to slide right. I’d say use normal acrylic paint and glossy water based poly if you want them shiny.
I’ve also seen a free hand method of “painting” an image with dark gel stain onto light wood, waiting for it to dry and then staining over the whole piece with ether a lighter stain or dark stain over everything to give it uniformity
Yes! If you have the time, this is the same as the poly-over method but without the poly. Some gel stains and environments have unpredictable cure times and the last thing you want is to smear the dark when you apply the medium or dark shade. It definitely works though when you have all those factors under control.
Great job and tutorial. I just finished my first set and it came out great! Question. How do you finish the sides and legs? I was thinking of exterior paint or maybe colored stain. Your thoughts.
If you’re staining or painting the frames, i definitely recommend rounding over after you paint/stain. Cuts a nice clean edge. Suggest a color that’s contrasts a lot with the top deck. Really, your choice. Good luck!
Thank you great tutorial! I ended up getting spar urethane oil base because all of the water based polyurethane said interior on the can. I haven't applied it yet. Can the poly be used for exterior? Thanks again!
Great question, anything oil based is likely to yellow quite a bit. It also tents to be a lot slicker. Water based poly may not hold up well if you leave your boards outside but it works great for playability and is durable enough. Definitely the most common among builders.
Love these. Question about the friction blocks to keep the boards together. My support board is just off enough that the two boards don't match perfectly for the friction blocks the way you describe. Rather than fitting the blocks tightly on either side of the brace, would placing them further apart still achieve the same effect of clamping the boards together? I imagine the boards could slide a bit length-wide but they'd probably hold together for the most part. Not ideal but do you foresee a big issue? Thanks so much for all your videos.
That does make sense. When my boards dontnline up perfectly, i sand down the edge on the inside of one of the “buckteeth” if that makes sense. Most of the time, it works every time.
The camera is so far away no idea of what the. Odors look like. Useless video
I think I understand how the poly would seal the stain, and allow application of the new color, but I'm not sure how the stain would properly under the coat of poly.
This might be specific to gel stains but a thin coax of sprayed on water based poly doesnt interfere with the way they cure at all. You can do a stain over stain without the poly butbut takes a lot longer and the darker colors still smear sometimes.
@@cornholecollective7116 Thanks for the reply. I'll give it go! And thanks for the video. Very informative.
Do you stain the rest of the frame and legs or do you just do a poly coat on it or just leave it?
I always poly the frame and legs. Staining or painting the frames, Really depends on the look you want. I rarely paint or stain the legs ither than logos on the brace.
Great video! What's the link for the wood plugs on Amazon. It's linked to a miter saw.😅
Oops! amzn.to/3ZUkaPx
Great camera work
Lol. Yeah, I know, it’s shit. Oh well.
This is the first complete and practical set of instructions I've been able to find. I wish I had found it before I built and finished my first board. Thanks.
Thanks for watching!
How did you keep the stain from bleeding under the vinyl?
Gel stain applied sparingly. Try it!
Do you finish the legs while they are attached to the frame or do you remove them before you finish them?
I leave the legs attached and apply a couple coats of clear to them. Once they’re built, I don’t like removing the legs.
I thought about three crosscuts for the four boards Never thought about grain direction
If you’re fully painting or wrapping the boards, that might be an easier way. My personal preference is the look of long grain and avoiding tear outs with an 8’ ripcut. It can be a lot to juggle if you don’t have a helper or full size table saw.
Im going to b painting my first set this week this video inspired me!
I’m sure it’ll be great!
Thanks for your great videos. I’ve made several boards using your technique and had great results. This time however instead of poly I used epoxy resin on the tops and they turned out really nice. I think I want to apply several coats of poly to protect the finish from scratches and I was wondering if you had any tips for me. Such as water based or oil base poly and how many coats. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Poly over resin?! That might be above my pay grade bud. I would seriously doubt that super glossy poly would be more scratch resistant than epoxy but I don’t have anything to prove one way or the other. Please follow up here and let us know how and what you applied over the resin.
Love the boards. I been debating on staining with multiple stains. Any advice?
Thanks! Multiple stains is my favorite method of all. Have a couple videos on the “poly over” method using several shades of stain. Unfortunately, it doesn’t work with dyed staines but it works great with brown shades.
What angle are the legs cut at
Builder preference. There is no rule about leg angle but some say a more raked out leg absorbs some of the bag shock so less bounce, personally, I doubt it has much effect.
Scott, I’m late to the show, but I intended to make some boards for the first time this weekend thinking I had a plan….. until I watched this! Well done.
Folding angled legs with a leg brace seem easy enough but there are a lot of variables that can throw them off. If you’re not mass producing boards, the hang-off-the-table method is the best I’ve found.
This is fantastic!!!!
Thanks Alex!
You ever try to use the Baltic birch as the frame? That would be a nice look I think with the end grain exposed.
If I had space and money for a full size table saw, I’d definitely rip baltic birch frames. They work great and you don’t have to worry about the inconsistency of normal lumber.
I just attempted my first set went well so far until the hold low saw slipped but I have a light ring so it doesn't really matter. Idk that I'd build another set I'd rather just purchase once and be done
If it’s just to make a set your yourself, especially without many tools, buying is usually the right choice.
I'm impressed on all the info you give. It helps to know the details
Does the spray varathane poly not absorb the stain? I notice you got right over those areas with the 2nd stain…thx nice video I plan to try it
Great question. If you stain light over dark it can smear the dark stain. The poly seals the dark stain so that doesn’t happen.
Looks great 👍
So, do you prefer the spiral bits over typical straight ones for rounding corners on plywood?
Spiral burns a lot less than fluted, bits last longer it seems too. You don’t get all the melted glue and pitch build up.
@@cornholecollective7116 Thanks!
such a nice set of boards!!!!
Thanks!
Sorry if you answered this and I missed it, but what angle are you cutting the bottom of the feet?
It really only makes sense to pre-cut the leg angle if you have a system for building lots of cornhole sets exactly the same every time. Assembly line style. If not, leave the legs un-cut. Hang them over the edge of a table in playing position with the deck set on paint cans 12” off the table. Mark and cut your legs.
Thanks
The Instructables page shows some rubber bumpers on the feet to prevent skidding. Where do you buy these/what are specs? How do you compensate for the added height when you are cutting the height to 12"
Home Depot used to sell them, rubber stopper feet. The legs were cut about 1/4” short so the feet would lift the board to 12”.
Outstanding video. I’ve milling my own wood but had a stroke on May 3rd. I’ve decided to continue doing my wood working. Going to have a go at producing corn hole boards as my business. This video really helped me out with getting the legs perfect! Thanks
Wow Jim, all the best to you. I’m sure it’s been a tough go. I hope you regain all your faculties soon. I (Scott here) had a stroke as well, it’s been 14 years since then but happy to share my experience if you want. The only thing that brought me any comfort, besides my amazing wife, was learning all I could about how the brain works and heals over time. Something like building boards gives you a lot to focus our mind and energy on. Just be safe as your hand-eye coordination and depth perception might not be 100% if you’re like I was. Message me on Instagram anytime. @MossBoards be well!