For smaller epoxy - look for double bubble epoxy packets
@cypriano87634 жыл бұрын
tuck tape; thats it, that the repair/ first aid kit. just need a small allen key for those dynafit binding screws and leatherman
@khrumkashan69544 жыл бұрын
thanks alot for the video . What would be size of the backpack 30L / 40L?
@skyjockbill5 жыл бұрын
Really surprised you use synthetic base layers - perhaps you've changed since this was made - merino is so much more effective and doesn't smell nearly as much.
@provenxreaperx5 жыл бұрын
To much syntethic man, wool= natural, lightweigt, superior varmt. Warm when wet, use to layers wool . , 3 layer Gore tex set, down jacket, 2 socks, to gloves, etch
@Alex-zx3pv5 жыл бұрын
provenxreaperx I love wool as a base layer when it’s freezing but I have problems with the packability holding water.
@olacocac6 жыл бұрын
Dude, you can’t seriously advise cotton and synthetic underwear for winter activities- cotton and synthetics are a certain death. Always wear 100% wool next to your skin.
@millerjo45826 жыл бұрын
You can score a once use packet of epoxy about the size of a playing card for skimo.com a couple of those are way easier to carry..
@avinashhadat33996 жыл бұрын
Video
@PipinhoSnow7 жыл бұрын
Tks :)
@Kaizi10057 жыл бұрын
hey what pack is that?
@johnrace366 жыл бұрын
It is an older Black Diamond pack that was 42 Liters. I think it was called the Revelation. It was a great pack, but I ended up moving to an airbag system when we had our second kid.
@irideaduck9397 жыл бұрын
Did the Haute Route a few years ago as a client, this is a good video for any client.
@johnrace366 жыл бұрын
Thank you!
@BenRangel7 жыл бұрын
Don't your glasses fog up when you wear a neck gaiter? I wear gloves and I went insane after wearing a buff on a skiing trip, having to breathe down all the time to not fog up my glasses. These days I wear an Airhole. Looks ugly but no fog.
@johnrace366 жыл бұрын
I find the buff is the only thing light enough for me to breathe through without fogging my glasses. My nose is super cold sensitive from 29 years of too much cold in the face. My wife cuts a hole in her buff for her mouth and prefers that. I like the buff because I can stick it on my head if it is a really hot day. Seems like when it is not cold it is hot without much in between....
@psychedeliccheese8 жыл бұрын
I thought this was so lame and unnecessary to watch until he smooshed his ski cramps together and then put them on the water bottle! Mind Blown!
@ASander348 жыл бұрын
Thanks; very helpful. -Adam
@MsEickhoff8 жыл бұрын
how big is your rucksack; i.e. how many litres does it have ? (looks like about 30 - to 35 litres)..?? Thanks !!
@johnrace366 жыл бұрын
42 liters, but bear in mind as a guide I have a few more items than I need when on a personal trip. When guiding I have a bit more coms (radio), usually a small rescue sled, and a fairly burly repair kit. If I blow it on my own less just means I live with the inconvenience. When guiding I feel like my clients expect me to be able to repair their bindings, have a good ability to communicate in an emergency, etc. Light is the way to go! That said, guiding light is a bit different than recreating light.
@finnmaes68138 жыл бұрын
Heyf. Its funn} stupid juice What's happenmng.. 1!
@phb67959 жыл бұрын
Si vous aimez porter de gros sacs !!! Alors pourquoi pas un ski en plus ? ou mieux un guide en plus si le votre tombe dans une crevasse...... Serieusement : - 1 m de ducttape - 1 m de fil de fer - 3 m de fil de nylon poissé + aiguille - 6 morceau de tape double face = 50 gr le reste à la maison
@PipinhoSnow9 жыл бұрын
tks
@KyHarvey719 жыл бұрын
you can put the epoxy parts in a small needleless syringe. If you take the plunger off of the rubber gasket, you can still seal the epoxy and store the plunger seperate for compactness. If your a gram geek, you can even just use one plunger. I recommend a 3ml one, but you can use anywhere from a very small insulin syringe to a 10ml one.
@connors.91819 жыл бұрын
that brand kitchen sink did you say?
@NWmountainschool9 жыл бұрын
In 2014 we skied from Zermatt to Verbier in around 13.5 hours and packed a lot less. Then again we had the Swiss Military for support...
@djsintek9 жыл бұрын
Northwest Mountain School PDG is a great race isn't it!
@johnrace369 жыл бұрын
Northwest Mountain School Until the last couple hours it was fun. Amazing to move with so little on board.
@northernhappenings9 жыл бұрын
Ski repair kit, a few changes/additions. But more or less the same. 1 - *Storage bag - Misc. 2' - Baling wire - Hardware store 1 - Binding buddy driver - Black Diamond Variety - Binding screws - Misc. 1 - Binding, dynafit spare - Dynafit 1 - Binding, spare tour lock - Dynafit 2 - Cuff rivet replacement - Hardware store 1 - Epoxy kwik set - J-B Weld 8276 2 - Hose clamp, pole repair - Hardware store 2 - Hose clamps, binding - Hardware store 1 - Lighter - Bic 1 - Metal scraper - Swix 1 - Multi-tool - Leatherman 2 - Pole basket - Black Diamond 2 - Ski strap - Voile, 24" 1 - Skin, tail piece - BD/G3 1 - Skin, toe piece - Black Diamond 1 - Skin, trim tool - G3 1 - Steel wool - Home Depot 3' - Tape, Cloth - ACE 3' -Tape, Duct - Gorilla Tape 1/4' - Tape, Nylon repair - Kenyon 1 - Wax, Glide - Swix F4 1 - Wax, Glop stopper - Black Diamond 6 - Zip ties - Hardware store
@aguzvar10 жыл бұрын
What about rope, belay sistem, and anchors? Do you carry a first Aid kit? Vhf Radio?
@johnrace369 жыл бұрын
Yes. 40 meter rope if going over Col du Chardonnet, 1 ice screw, which I have yet to place, and sufficient gear to do crevasse rescue. I carry a cell phone and a VHF radio. First-aid kit is needed with plenty of blister repair. This video was aimed more at folks running with a guide.
@johnrace366 жыл бұрын
I carry a 40 meter rope, the lightest I can find, an ice screw, some cord, and generally a couple locking carabiners and a belay device. You can live without the belay device and if you have an axe, your shovel and your ski gear you can make a good anchor in most conditions. The ice screw is there if it is bulletproof, but would need to be backed up by something.
@ernreeders148710 жыл бұрын
What about epoxy putty instead of the tubes?
@Lukjerben10 жыл бұрын
What bag do you use?
@NWmountainschool10 жыл бұрын
Patagonia has a new ski bag that we are using this year. For a pack we prefer CiloGear's Ski Pack. We have also used Black Diamond Revelations and more recently the Ortovox Tour 32+7 with the ABS system on board. Hopefully that answered your question....
@johnrace366 жыл бұрын
The huts provide a blankets, so I don't carry a bag. My favorite light bag at the moment is a Marmot Helium that I was given to review. I have others that are lighter, but if I actually have to sleep out in a tarp type tent this seems like it has worked well and weighs about 2 lbs.
@dlavoie9810 жыл бұрын
you forgot the ARVA
@NWmountainschool10 жыл бұрын
Daniel. Just behind the shovel. We use Ortovox.
@johnrace366 жыл бұрын
These days it is a Pieps DSP, but yes, beacon is in the top 10.
@buildakicker10 жыл бұрын
Can you add this list to the description?
@NWmountainschool10 жыл бұрын
I will try to get this done soon. Madly packing for this spring at the moment.
@northernhappenings9 жыл бұрын
Ski repair kit, a few changes/additions. But more or less the same. 1 - *Storage bag - Misc. 2' - Baling wire - Hardware store 1 - Binding buddy driver - Black Diamond Variety - Binding screws - Misc. 1 - Binding, dynafit spare - Dynafit 1 - Binding, spare tour lock - Dynafit 2 - Cuff rivet replacement - Hardware store 1 - Epoxy kwik set - J-B Weld 8276 2 - Hose clamp, pole repair - Hardware store 2 - Hose clamps, binding - Hardware store 1 - Lighter - Bic 1 - Metal scraper - Swix 1 - Multi-tool - Leatherman 2 - Pole basket - Black Diamond 2 - Ski strap - Voile, 24" 1 - Skin, tail piece - BD/G3 1 - Skin, toe piece - Black Diamond 1 - Skin, trim tool - G3 1 - Steel wool - Home Depot 3' - Tape, Cloth - ACE 3' -Tape, Duct - Gorilla Tape 1/4' - Tape, Nylon repair - Kenyon 1 - Wax, Glide - Swix F4 1 - Wax, Glop stopper - Black Diamond 6 - Zip ties - Hardware store
@jhwhite0510 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the video! Do you see many people ski touring the Haute Route with helmets?
@NWmountainschool10 жыл бұрын
Joe. In general more people are beginning to wear helmets in the backcountry. The challenge is finding a helmet that is light and carries well on an already loaded pack. I find them too hot to wear uphill on most days. It also is worth noting that on some trips things are generally soft and on others it can be firm and hard. I think as helmets get lighter and more compact it will become more and more common for people to use them.
@jhwhite0510 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the reply!
@thomakmonsen9 жыл бұрын
Northwest Mountain School Hi, nice movie! I am trying to do some longer routes in Norway but i need to use a sleeping bag, dou you have an advice for pack lite winter bags? I have a packlite 2 kg 2 pers tent. Me and my byddy can share the weight on the tent. But sleeping bag is the big question. And we have to use an ABS backpack since you are very remote without cellular phone connection. Tips i often use a climbing helmet on alpine ski day trips. You can use a warm hat inside the helmet. I hope to fit everyting into a 50 liter backpack, with 30 m glacier rope. BR Thomas
@johnrace369 жыл бұрын
Thomas Kenneth Monsen I had not looked at this for close to a year. I have used a Marmot bag that is rated to 20F and down and now have an even lighter bag that is only rated to 32F. I think the 32F one is made by Marmot and weighs around 1 lb. I agree completely with the alpine helmet option. They are often not rated the same as a ski area type helmet, but they do offer some protection.
@PerfDayToday3 жыл бұрын
I have a K2 ‘Route’ helmet. Made for BC skiing. 300 ish grams, hugely ventilated, and has a cover for stormy weather. BOA closure system.
@devans316211 жыл бұрын
outstanding video, thank you!
@FelipeAdventures11 жыл бұрын
This is such an easier way then I did yesterday to get out of belay to go assist a panicked first time climber and lower him down!!! That was fun he would not go up or down!! Thank you do much for the video, this simplifies things a lot. If by any chance you have any tips in rescuing a panicked climber please let me know!!!
@bogusbacha9911 жыл бұрын
very helpful. thanks!
@egillgu11 жыл бұрын
Thank you. A very clear demonstration.
@bobewing400411 жыл бұрын
This is a fantastic video. Thank you!
@Lummers7012 жыл бұрын
Great video, very clear. Didn't sound as though your audience enjoyed it to much! Please post more!
@ece42112 жыл бұрын
thank you so much for making this practical, step-by-step video instruction on how to escape the belay. it's unfortunate that so many climbers do not know how to do this! guided instruction can cost several hundred dollars, and books often do more to cause confusion than help leading to a case of the blind leading the blind. please feel free to post as many videos as possible, you may have just prevented someone having a serious accident.
@NWmountainschool12 жыл бұрын
Hello - This does work with a standard ATC for lowering. If you don't have enough friction/breaking power for your given load you can add more by using an enchainment. One example would be to bring the break strand back to your harness and add a munter there instead of the prusik. Belaying from the top off of the anchor does not work with a standard ATC.
@TheodoreK212 жыл бұрын
Should this technique work with a standard ATC? I tried this last weekend on some snow in RMNP and couldn't get it to function properly/provide enough braking to be effective. Thanks for the vid!
@oadmo12 жыл бұрын
awesome, more guides please
@LaSportivaNA12 жыл бұрын
Olivia, this is great! Very simple to follow, easy to see what is happening throughout the process and performed at a speed that would enable the viewer to practice while watching the video. We're looking forward to seeing more!
@jg555512 жыл бұрын
Great video - thanks!
@Strum222312 жыл бұрын
I wish my mum was a experienced rock climber! Nice demonstration.
@jaypoly12 жыл бұрын
Great video....such a clear and precise presentation. Thanks. Jay from the UK
Пікірлер
For smaller epoxy - look for double bubble epoxy packets
tuck tape; thats it, that the repair/ first aid kit. just need a small allen key for those dynafit binding screws and leatherman
thanks alot for the video . What would be size of the backpack 30L / 40L?
Really surprised you use synthetic base layers - perhaps you've changed since this was made - merino is so much more effective and doesn't smell nearly as much.
To much syntethic man, wool= natural, lightweigt, superior varmt. Warm when wet, use to layers wool . , 3 layer Gore tex set, down jacket, 2 socks, to gloves, etch
provenxreaperx I love wool as a base layer when it’s freezing but I have problems with the packability holding water.
Dude, you can’t seriously advise cotton and synthetic underwear for winter activities- cotton and synthetics are a certain death. Always wear 100% wool next to your skin.
You can score a once use packet of epoxy about the size of a playing card for skimo.com a couple of those are way easier to carry..
Video
Tks :)
hey what pack is that?
It is an older Black Diamond pack that was 42 Liters. I think it was called the Revelation. It was a great pack, but I ended up moving to an airbag system when we had our second kid.
Did the Haute Route a few years ago as a client, this is a good video for any client.
Thank you!
Don't your glasses fog up when you wear a neck gaiter? I wear gloves and I went insane after wearing a buff on a skiing trip, having to breathe down all the time to not fog up my glasses. These days I wear an Airhole. Looks ugly but no fog.
I find the buff is the only thing light enough for me to breathe through without fogging my glasses. My nose is super cold sensitive from 29 years of too much cold in the face. My wife cuts a hole in her buff for her mouth and prefers that. I like the buff because I can stick it on my head if it is a really hot day. Seems like when it is not cold it is hot without much in between....
I thought this was so lame and unnecessary to watch until he smooshed his ski cramps together and then put them on the water bottle! Mind Blown!
Thanks; very helpful. -Adam
how big is your rucksack; i.e. how many litres does it have ? (looks like about 30 - to 35 litres)..?? Thanks !!
42 liters, but bear in mind as a guide I have a few more items than I need when on a personal trip. When guiding I have a bit more coms (radio), usually a small rescue sled, and a fairly burly repair kit. If I blow it on my own less just means I live with the inconvenience. When guiding I feel like my clients expect me to be able to repair their bindings, have a good ability to communicate in an emergency, etc. Light is the way to go! That said, guiding light is a bit different than recreating light.
Heyf. Its funn} stupid juice What's happenmng.. 1!
Si vous aimez porter de gros sacs !!! Alors pourquoi pas un ski en plus ? ou mieux un guide en plus si le votre tombe dans une crevasse...... Serieusement : - 1 m de ducttape - 1 m de fil de fer - 3 m de fil de nylon poissé + aiguille - 6 morceau de tape double face = 50 gr le reste à la maison
tks
you can put the epoxy parts in a small needleless syringe. If you take the plunger off of the rubber gasket, you can still seal the epoxy and store the plunger seperate for compactness. If your a gram geek, you can even just use one plunger. I recommend a 3ml one, but you can use anywhere from a very small insulin syringe to a 10ml one.
that brand kitchen sink did you say?
In 2014 we skied from Zermatt to Verbier in around 13.5 hours and packed a lot less. Then again we had the Swiss Military for support...
Northwest Mountain School PDG is a great race isn't it!
Northwest Mountain School Until the last couple hours it was fun. Amazing to move with so little on board.
Ski repair kit, a few changes/additions. But more or less the same. 1 - *Storage bag - Misc. 2' - Baling wire - Hardware store 1 - Binding buddy driver - Black Diamond Variety - Binding screws - Misc. 1 - Binding, dynafit spare - Dynafit 1 - Binding, spare tour lock - Dynafit 2 - Cuff rivet replacement - Hardware store 1 - Epoxy kwik set - J-B Weld 8276 2 - Hose clamp, pole repair - Hardware store 2 - Hose clamps, binding - Hardware store 1 - Lighter - Bic 1 - Metal scraper - Swix 1 - Multi-tool - Leatherman 2 - Pole basket - Black Diamond 2 - Ski strap - Voile, 24" 1 - Skin, tail piece - BD/G3 1 - Skin, toe piece - Black Diamond 1 - Skin, trim tool - G3 1 - Steel wool - Home Depot 3' - Tape, Cloth - ACE 3' -Tape, Duct - Gorilla Tape 1/4' - Tape, Nylon repair - Kenyon 1 - Wax, Glide - Swix F4 1 - Wax, Glop stopper - Black Diamond 6 - Zip ties - Hardware store
What about rope, belay sistem, and anchors? Do you carry a first Aid kit? Vhf Radio?
Yes. 40 meter rope if going over Col du Chardonnet, 1 ice screw, which I have yet to place, and sufficient gear to do crevasse rescue. I carry a cell phone and a VHF radio. First-aid kit is needed with plenty of blister repair. This video was aimed more at folks running with a guide.
I carry a 40 meter rope, the lightest I can find, an ice screw, some cord, and generally a couple locking carabiners and a belay device. You can live without the belay device and if you have an axe, your shovel and your ski gear you can make a good anchor in most conditions. The ice screw is there if it is bulletproof, but would need to be backed up by something.
What about epoxy putty instead of the tubes?
What bag do you use?
Patagonia has a new ski bag that we are using this year. For a pack we prefer CiloGear's Ski Pack. We have also used Black Diamond Revelations and more recently the Ortovox Tour 32+7 with the ABS system on board. Hopefully that answered your question....
The huts provide a blankets, so I don't carry a bag. My favorite light bag at the moment is a Marmot Helium that I was given to review. I have others that are lighter, but if I actually have to sleep out in a tarp type tent this seems like it has worked well and weighs about 2 lbs.
you forgot the ARVA
Daniel. Just behind the shovel. We use Ortovox.
These days it is a Pieps DSP, but yes, beacon is in the top 10.
Can you add this list to the description?
I will try to get this done soon. Madly packing for this spring at the moment.
Ski repair kit, a few changes/additions. But more or less the same. 1 - *Storage bag - Misc. 2' - Baling wire - Hardware store 1 - Binding buddy driver - Black Diamond Variety - Binding screws - Misc. 1 - Binding, dynafit spare - Dynafit 1 - Binding, spare tour lock - Dynafit 2 - Cuff rivet replacement - Hardware store 1 - Epoxy kwik set - J-B Weld 8276 2 - Hose clamp, pole repair - Hardware store 2 - Hose clamps, binding - Hardware store 1 - Lighter - Bic 1 - Metal scraper - Swix 1 - Multi-tool - Leatherman 2 - Pole basket - Black Diamond 2 - Ski strap - Voile, 24" 1 - Skin, tail piece - BD/G3 1 - Skin, toe piece - Black Diamond 1 - Skin, trim tool - G3 1 - Steel wool - Home Depot 3' - Tape, Cloth - ACE 3' -Tape, Duct - Gorilla Tape 1/4' - Tape, Nylon repair - Kenyon 1 - Wax, Glide - Swix F4 1 - Wax, Glop stopper - Black Diamond 6 - Zip ties - Hardware store
Thanks for the video! Do you see many people ski touring the Haute Route with helmets?
Joe. In general more people are beginning to wear helmets in the backcountry. The challenge is finding a helmet that is light and carries well on an already loaded pack. I find them too hot to wear uphill on most days. It also is worth noting that on some trips things are generally soft and on others it can be firm and hard. I think as helmets get lighter and more compact it will become more and more common for people to use them.
Thanks for the reply!
Northwest Mountain School Hi, nice movie! I am trying to do some longer routes in Norway but i need to use a sleeping bag, dou you have an advice for pack lite winter bags? I have a packlite 2 kg 2 pers tent. Me and my byddy can share the weight on the tent. But sleeping bag is the big question. And we have to use an ABS backpack since you are very remote without cellular phone connection. Tips i often use a climbing helmet on alpine ski day trips. You can use a warm hat inside the helmet. I hope to fit everyting into a 50 liter backpack, with 30 m glacier rope. BR Thomas
Thomas Kenneth Monsen I had not looked at this for close to a year. I have used a Marmot bag that is rated to 20F and down and now have an even lighter bag that is only rated to 32F. I think the 32F one is made by Marmot and weighs around 1 lb. I agree completely with the alpine helmet option. They are often not rated the same as a ski area type helmet, but they do offer some protection.
I have a K2 ‘Route’ helmet. Made for BC skiing. 300 ish grams, hugely ventilated, and has a cover for stormy weather. BOA closure system.
outstanding video, thank you!
This is such an easier way then I did yesterday to get out of belay to go assist a panicked first time climber and lower him down!!! That was fun he would not go up or down!! Thank you do much for the video, this simplifies things a lot. If by any chance you have any tips in rescuing a panicked climber please let me know!!!
very helpful. thanks!
Thank you. A very clear demonstration.
This is a fantastic video. Thank you!
Great video, very clear. Didn't sound as though your audience enjoyed it to much! Please post more!
thank you so much for making this practical, step-by-step video instruction on how to escape the belay. it's unfortunate that so many climbers do not know how to do this! guided instruction can cost several hundred dollars, and books often do more to cause confusion than help leading to a case of the blind leading the blind. please feel free to post as many videos as possible, you may have just prevented someone having a serious accident.
Hello - This does work with a standard ATC for lowering. If you don't have enough friction/breaking power for your given load you can add more by using an enchainment. One example would be to bring the break strand back to your harness and add a munter there instead of the prusik. Belaying from the top off of the anchor does not work with a standard ATC.
Should this technique work with a standard ATC? I tried this last weekend on some snow in RMNP and couldn't get it to function properly/provide enough braking to be effective. Thanks for the vid!
awesome, more guides please
Olivia, this is great! Very simple to follow, easy to see what is happening throughout the process and performed at a speed that would enable the viewer to practice while watching the video. We're looking forward to seeing more!
Great video - thanks!
I wish my mum was a experienced rock climber! Nice demonstration.
Great video....such a clear and precise presentation. Thanks. Jay from the UK