Always interesting videos! May I ask the difference between Eco Flo Water Leather Dye and Eco Flo Waterstain?
@internationalleatherclub3 сағат бұрын
Hi, sure - The Waterstain has a bit of a different solvent composition, as well as some waxes in it. It also generally won't rub-off color as easily as the other. So it's really up to preference and application style if someone might prefer one over the other. In both cases, some sort of top finish is likely beneficial, while it will likely be more necessary for the Eco Flo Water Leather Dye.
@bensb4534Күн бұрын
I am looking to apply acrylic to veg tanned leather that I have dyed myself. Would you recommend that after dying and conditioning this would be the best time to apply the acrylic paint? I would like the final finish on my leather to be sealed with Resoline would I put an acrylic finish after painting acrylic and then Resoline over top or just Resoline on top of the acrylic paint?
@internationalleatherclubКүн бұрын
Hey, yep you've got a good approach in mind: dye, condition, acrylic, then resolene. It can often be good to test on scrap if you can, to make sure that whatever formulations of those products work smoothly and don't have any unexpected reactions (even though each will be dry before applying the next). Sounds like a fun project, good luck with it!
@michelangloromeoКүн бұрын
A.G. Spaulding and Brothers
@internationalleatherclubКүн бұрын
Yes, the manufacturer! Very rugged and well-crafted
@j5s9cКүн бұрын
Just the sort of information I needed. As a beginner it is pretty confusing. Thank you.
@internationalleatherclubКүн бұрын
You're very welcome, thanks for the message. Always feel free to reach out with questions as you're learning, we'll be glad to help.
@PartyChicken4072 күн бұрын
Dude, you made the video that I was hoping there was a video about mink oil was like. Thank you. ✌️
@internationalleatherclub2 күн бұрын
Awesome to hear, thanks! Glad it was helpful
@Liliarthan4 күн бұрын
Thanks for this helpful info!
@internationalleatherclub4 күн бұрын
You're very welcome! Thanks for the comment 😃
@jamesledbetter1257 күн бұрын
your audio has too much bass in it can't understand what your saying
@internationalleatherclub7 күн бұрын
Hey, thanks for the feedback, the audio could use some balancing. This was an earlier video and we've adjusted the sound balance in more recent ones, so hopefully they're sounding better! 👍 Thanks again for taking a moment to suggest improvements
@jfrancisut8 күн бұрын
Will using Neatsfoot oil with more applications make the leather darker?
@internationalleatherclub7 күн бұрын
In general it likely will. Usually, the more conditioning, or applications of a conditioner, will lead to more moisture and a slightly darker color each time. Depending on the formula it might be slight, and it usually dries lighter than it looks when initially applied.
@JonRobinsonArt8 күн бұрын
Have you worked with the various other types of dyes used as inks, alcohol dyes, used for painting opposed to paint. I think they are alcohol based, I'm trying to find out more info on them.
@internationalleatherclub8 күн бұрын
Hello 😃 Are you referring to the alcohol inks used for art (tiles, specialized paper, etc.)? Or natural dyes?
@internationalleatherclub8 күн бұрын
@@JonRobinsonArt Hi, I've used several types of dyes, where in general dyes penetrate into the leather fibers, whereas paints usually sit on the surface, changing the color by adding a layer of pigment on top. Let me know what you might has seen or been thinking and I'll help as best I can!
@JonRobinsonArt8 күн бұрын
@internationalleatherclub 16 Colors 100ml Vegetable Leather Alcohol dye Leather Coloring Pigment Tanned Leather Manual Dyestuff Amazon find, Generic though. I've seen professional grade, maybe Japanese and I can't remember the name.
@internationalleatherclub8 күн бұрын
@@JonRobinsonArt Ahh I see it I checked it out on Amazon, thanks for the name. I haven't tried that one. Knowing the ingredients/formula is often key. Popular manufacturers can generally be a little more reliable since we know more about the formulas and results, though there are all sorts of smaller/niche manufacturers that can make amazing things. I'll keep my ears open if I come across anything similar, always up to learn more about the options out there. Thanks
@jfrancisut9 күн бұрын
I want to make a leather tray for loading my tobacco pipes. I bought a piece of veg tan leather and I would like to know if Neatsfoot oil would be safe for consumables. This is my very first leather project. Thanks.
@internationalleatherclub9 күн бұрын
Hello 😃, that sounds like a fun project. I haven't really considered leather conditioners that are safe for consumption, though happy to brainstorm some if it might help with further exploration. 100% neatsfoot oil I believe is generally natural (derived from bovine elements), though I'm not sure if the production process, packaging, handling, etc is tuned for consumption. There are natural oils, like olive oil, that are sometimes used as leather conditioners. Gnerally, they're not the greatest for long-term care fo the fibers (years, decades, etc.), though if it's for an item that is intended to be kept forever, then the utility of that oil might help make it usable in a case like this. Food grade olive oil might work, though not sure if/how it might degrade over time, from a consumption standpoint. Interesting project! I hope this helps with some thoughts and inspire some further exploration, research, and testing. If anyone else has experience here, please let us know! I'd be curious to learn more about others' experiences.
@jfrancisut9 күн бұрын
Thank you very much for the information! I greatly appreciate it! I will let you know how it turns out.
@internationalleatherclub9 күн бұрын
@@jfrancisut Sounds great, and like a fun one!
@dustang5.O16 күн бұрын
I’m wondering why any company would put silicone in any of these conditioners, with the only reason being as a cheap filler. Silicon is not good for leather or stitching threads. Easy to verify, as all of the better mink oil or neatsfoot oil conditioners from reputable companies specifically state that they do NOT contain silicon.
@internationalleatherclub16 күн бұрын
Definitely agree! 😃
@Colby2Cheese16 күн бұрын
Can you use a normal tooth brush if you don’t horse hair brush?
@internationalleatherclub16 күн бұрын
Hello, it can usually be ok if the bristles are soft. It might be worth testing on a small area to see if it leaves tiny/light scratches or not, or even gently on the back of the hand to see if it is gentle enough.
@Colby2Cheese16 күн бұрын
@@internationalleatherclub Thanks a bunch for your response : ).
@internationalleatherclub16 күн бұрын
@@Colby2Cheese Anytime!
@Colby2Cheese14 күн бұрын
@@internationalleatherclub I recently used the Kiwi Saddle soap on my leather wallet. However, I think I was too aggressive with it and did 2 cycles of saddle soap on the wallet. The leather wallet now is a little dry, How or what can I use to add moisture back into the leather without color change?
@internationalleatherclub14 күн бұрын
@@Colby2Cheese Using a light, natural conditioner like a Leather Honey might be worth trying. In general, any conditioning will likely darken leather a slight amount (some conditioners slightly, some more noticeably). When thinking about most anything drying up (clothes, foods, trees, many thing etc.) when they dry they usually get lighter in color. And when moisture is added, they usually darken a bit. So for leather it's usually about finding a conditioner that gives good benefit with the least color change.
@ivanlunaful17 күн бұрын
I live in Mexico and here we only have pumpkin soap which is saddle soap obviously made of pumpkin, know anything about that kind ? And any tips on cleaning and maintaining kangaroo leather soccer cleats?
@internationalleatherclub16 күн бұрын
Hello 😃 I've heard of the El Oso pumpkin soap, though haven't used it yet. Many saddle soaps include a blend of ingredients some of which can be helpful and others less so. So I often read the ingredient list and the decide if the ingredients are something I'm comfortable adding to the leather long-term. Kangaroo is a very durable and strong leather. Cleaning with a gentle cleanser made from natural ingredients can be great, then following up with a natural conditioner like a Leather Honey can be good options. If they're going to be used just for a few years and worn hard, then many popular cleaners/conditioners can give good results, water resistance, stain resistance, etc. Most any leather will benefit from separate cleaning and conditioning with natural products, though for performance items, it becomes a much more personal choice of ease of use and performance results. If you have questions on any specific cleaners, just let us know. Good luck with the project!
@2woofs78419 күн бұрын
Wow very helpful for me . Thank you!
@internationalleatherclub19 күн бұрын
You're very welcome! 😃
@cernhutch20 күн бұрын
Thanks for bringing this information to fans of leatherwork everywhere!
@internationalleatherclub20 күн бұрын
You're very welcome 😃 Thanks for letting us know!
@Martin-pb7ts25 күн бұрын
Literally nothing you showed added up. Really surprised you got positive comments on this. You didn't explain how you went from one unit to another or how you ended up anywhere. You give 5.2 ounces total but the scale shows 3.2 ounces. Seriously?
@2woofs78428 күн бұрын
I'm new to the leather craft.. So I have my piece of leather and I use Angelus leather preparer and deglazer to strip off the old finish, I write Holy Bible and Bible version on my cover. next I condition it and then I put on Angelus Acrylic Finisher. Is that right? Thanks for the helpful videos
@internationalleatherclub28 күн бұрын
Hello, in general yes, if you're looking to remove most of any previous finish across the entire surface that can work (since it might alter the color so doing the entire surface can help make it appear more even in tone once conditioned). If you're just looking to prep the area for writing, depending on the writing medium (paint, gold leaf, etc.) it might be ok just to apply on the current surface, then sealing it with finisher (if it's already conditioned). This could help prevent cracking of the writing if it's first applied to a dry surface, that later flexs differently when conditioned. I'll usually try a quick test on scrap, while you're suggested approach can work really well for most things. Wishing you well with the project!
@maxwellcustoms6709Ай бұрын
Hello! Thank you so much for your videos. They are by far my favorite. I appreciate how you break each down by the ingrediants and benefits for each. I am interested in making my own "Pro Dye" and have a few questions: 1) What kind of alcohol would be best to use? 2) What kind/grade/brand of ethanol that's recommended? 3) What kind/grade/brand of oleic acid is recommended? 4) Does it matter what composition of pigment is mixed in with the oleic acid? Mica/alcohol/natural earth/etc I appreciate your help...thank you!
@internationalleatherclubАй бұрын
You're very welcome 😃 glad they are helpful. It can be exciting to make a custom dye, in terms of ingredients, there are a range of factors from potency, availability, safety, and desired end result, and more. A great place to begin can be to look at the manufacturer material safety data sheets, as they provide broad breakdowns of ingredients and components used in popular dyes. From there, it's really determing the result that you'd like, and then developing and testing the right balance for what you're looking for. We'd be curious if you pursue it, please share more! Maybe yours will be the next new dye on the market.
@pepepepito7824Ай бұрын
I have a couple of deep scratches on my work boots that you recommend I can use to fill the gap. something that sticks and doesn't come off
@internationalleatherclubАй бұрын
Something called a "leather filler" can work well. It can fill in the material lost from the deep scratches, and also dry flexible. Some color match existing leather, and others can be painted to match.
@pepepepito7824Ай бұрын
@@internationalleatherclub thank you
@pepepepito7824Ай бұрын
i use jabon de calabaza, El Oso (pumpkin soap) is saddle soap with pumpkin oil and wax.
@internationalleatherclubАй бұрын
I'll have to learn more about that one, many oils can have conditioning effects and protective aspects with the wax. Thanks for mentioning it!
@burrellbikes4969Ай бұрын
Just think if Vincent rebuffed Warren’s orders pointing out that he already had orders from his superior. Warren also didn’t have direct authority over Vincent.
@internationalleatherclubАй бұрын
It's incredible to think of the impacts from in-monent decisions, and what leadership can truly mean in those contexts. For example when is it ok to change the implementation of orders when the present context clearly can benefit from it? And is it ignoring orders or more using the latest field info to refine them? Dan Sickles advancing into the Peach Orchard could be clear ignoring orders that led to negative results. Warren and Vincent covering Little Round Top might have saved the day, possibly the battle (and depending how much value one places on the strategic importantce of the battle, maybe even war). Fascinating to think about! 😃
@johngaither9263Ай бұрын
General Warrens career met an untimely end during the final battles of the war. He was unceremoniously relieved of command of the 5th Corps during the battle of Five Forks by General Phil Sheridan. Two of his three divisions began their attacks improperly aligned to strike the confederates of George Pickett's division. Sheridan relieved Warren for cause and appointed Joshua Chamberlain as commander when he saw what had happened. Warren became the only union General relieved for cause during battle in the war. Warren appealed to Grant but was ignored.
@internationalleatherclubАй бұрын
It was great that he was later exonerated, when President Hayes ordered a court of inquiry, and even Chamberlain spoke very highly in support of him. It seems his intuition and ability to read the context of a situation were a special trait for his leadership (Gettysburg, Mine Run Campaign). And exciting that soon after the war he was elected as a member of the very prestigious American Philosophical Society. In the past its members included George Washington, John Adams, Thomas Jefferson, Thomas Paine, James Madison, Alexander Hamilton, and John Marshall. It was founded by Ben Franklin. He was in good company.
@pimpompimАй бұрын
I just saw this in my local leather crafting store! I saw they also had Eco Flo "Super Shene", Fiebing's Bag-Kote, & Tan-Kote version, is there a difference between these or is Resolene maybe geared more towards dyed leather? They have the latter in a neutral, so I'm guessing it's a clear coat? Excited to hear your response, thank you for educating!
@internationalleatherclubАй бұрын
Hey! 😃 You're welcome, glad it's helpful info to watch. For those products, it mainly comes down to preference on finished look and performance characteristics. Roughly, I believe it is: Bag Kote - water based, soft, satin finish Resolene - gloss acrylic Tan-Kote - Resin based satin finish Super-Shene - Water based water repellent gloss finish What type of project are you planning to use it for?
@pimpompim29 күн бұрын
@@internationalleatherclub Sorry about the late response! Ohh! I prefer satin/matte finishes but does that diminish the protection overall? I don't mind sacrificing the appearance for it if that's the case, but I plan to use these projects while out and about! I work with treats, painting, animal-grooming care--all separate, aha! 😊 Though I planned to also make a few organisers based on hobbies, so some might be bent, is there anything to help with that as well?
@internationalleatherclub29 күн бұрын
@@pimpompim No worries! 😃 For out and about something with water resistance might have benefit, and in general the finish appearance (shiny, matter, etc.) should have little impact on performance. Key will be the components used in the formula and their performance characterists for the intended use you've got. They should cover most leathers well, even those with bends and molded shapes. Sounds like a fun project!
@pimpompim29 күн бұрын
Ooo, thank goodness, all the more to play around and test--Thank you kindly!
@internationalleatherclub29 күн бұрын
@@pimpompim It can be fun, enjoy!
@AndrewPatterson3001Ай бұрын
I really like Renia black. I used an airbrush to apply it. It’s also an alcohol/oil if I understand correctly
@internationalleatherclubАй бұрын
We'll have to try more out with that brand. Do you find it has any unique pros/cons? Airbrushing sounds like an excellent technique to develop, too.
@gallogollo1141Ай бұрын
Sir I am glad I found you. I hope you'll have the answer to my question. So I just started leather working. I die one of the belts but it seems like I need to seal it so that the tint won rub on my pants and also so that the chemical of tint does not stays on my had. That thing stinks like stage 2 lung cancer. Can I use beeswax as sealant? I used pro dye on my belt. The reason I ask is because I rather use a more natural product to seal the belts since I will be making belts for my hole family and I don't want to use a chemical sealant. What would be your thoughts on this?
@internationalleatherclubАй бұрын
Hello 😃 That is a great question, as dye rubbing off can be quite challenging. In general, wax can work though it can take time to apply evenly (especially on larger pieces), and will often need to be periodically reapplied over time in areas of high wear. Something easier to apply and a little more permanent is an acrylic resolene, though that get's into the synthetic materials a bit. So it becomes a tradeoff. Another option, for items made in the future, could be to purchase leather pre-dyed at the tannery in the color you want. In general, these are finished in such a way as to have minimal to no color rub-off, which could save you the application step alltogether. Wishing you well with the projects!
@gallogollo1141Ай бұрын
@@internationalleatherclub Yes I was thinking on just getting it already tinted that what I will do for my next order, but I need to make sure I get deep into this with the little tools I have first before buy like crazy and end up not doing more stuff. I ended up trying boiled linseed oil But I do not think it worked, it made it look nicer but I was still able to rub off the tint. I do appreciate your reply.
@internationalleatherclubАй бұрын
@@gallogollo1141 That's exciting you're trying things out, it's often one of the best ways to learn. Always feel welcome to reach out with questions, enjoy crafting!
@GaryYoung-eq1phАй бұрын
What is the best dye, saphir?
@internationalleatherclubАй бұрын
Saphir makes some excellent quality products across their lines, Fiebings makes some really nice dyes, too
@user-wo7rp6bc6tАй бұрын
One million dollar 😊
@internationalleatherclubАй бұрын
At least that, it's amazing! 😃
@tommygamba170Ай бұрын
Doesn't make sense. "You don't have a sturdy table" clamp a heavy metal piece to it and hammer on it?
@internationalleatherclubАй бұрын
Hey 😃, good question, some folks might have a thinner wood or other material table, while by a corner or stronger leg of the table, vertical forces can be more efficiently distributed. Certainly, context and common sense would rule any setup choices, where sometimes creative thinking can help overcome some things that initially seem like limitations.
@tonynasaofficialАй бұрын
I also got ons from ebay its Majestic 🥹✨️🤌
@internationalleatherclubАй бұрын
What a great find! It probably has a nice feel to it, too
@tonynasaofficialАй бұрын
@internationalleatherclub I actually used to be a CCA letter carrier for USPS, it was my first job back in the early 2010s! We never used these bags, we used ones made out of cotton and polyester which easily collected pet hair and stuff which sucked
@internationalleatherclubАй бұрын
@@tonynasaofficial Such a cool transition from there to what I would deduce is NASA currently, thanks for your public service in a number of ways! I wonder if cost was the driver to switch materials. It seems many things made through the early half of the 1900s would generally perform better and last longer (leather items, boots, shoes, wool coats/clothing, etc.), often while providing a better user experience.
@amolpatil8777Ай бұрын
Which should be used for replacement of sewing awl to be used by hand
@internationalleatherclubАй бұрын
Hello 😃, the type of project will be a factor in good needle selection. What sort of item are you planning to work with/make?
@amolpatil8777Ай бұрын
@@internationalleatherclub i am making leather football shoe, I want to sew it with hands, I want machine needle which should be around 3 inches long,
@internationalleatherclubАй бұрын
@@amolpatil8777 That sounds like a fun project. For a machine needle it would depend on the specific machine it might be used for. If sewing by hand, something like a glovers needle, or a saddler's harness needle might work well.
@amolpatil8777Ай бұрын
@@internationalleatherclub its not a fun project, i am making shoes for myself, i have 2 different size feet and hence i have to make them otherwise buy 2 different pairs As for the doubt, which needle type is having longest needle for sewing on machine, i want maximum length ?
@internationalleatherclubАй бұрын
@@amolpatil8777 I understand what you are saying about the different sizes, I imagine that can be frustrating at times. For the machine needle, I'd suggest looking up the needles that fit your specific machine, as that will help ensure whatever you choose will fit it just right and help to give good results. Wishing you well with the project, I hope it all goes great.
@glacialimpalaАй бұрын
Is the color rubbing off as much with Eco Flo water as it is with ProDye?
@internationalleatherclubАй бұрын
Hello great question - we haven't done long-term rub-off tests on them, though in general most leather that has not been factory-dyed, will generally benefit from a sealing layer over a home-dyed piece. For example a resolene coating or something similar. This helps as many will rub off somewhat over time (even when buffed thoroughly), and can vary in amount based on conditions used in (like something for everyday wear that might come into contact with rain, etc.). So with a coating, it becomes less key which one naturally rubs off more, while that's also a great things to know and something we'd be curious to explore, too. Thanks for adding to the discussion.
@glacialimpalaАй бұрын
@@internationalleatherclub Wow thank you for responding to the question yourself, all I hoped for was a random reader comment 🥰
@internationalleatherclubАй бұрын
@@glacialimpala You're welcome! It was a great question, glad to try and help 👍
@susanhorton3999Ай бұрын
If leather was stained by olive oil, would the best bet be to apply olive oil to the whole item, or is one of these oils preferable to try and even out the color?
@internationalleatherclubАй бұрын
Hello 😃 There can be a few variables like leather type, absorbancy, etc. Though as a simple answer, here are a few thoughts: Olive oil isn't great for heirloom leather or items that will be kept and used for decades. That said, it's often not as bad as some synthetic leather conditioners. Basically, anything that goes into the leather generally stays in there. Options can be: 1 - If it's a very important or long-term heirloom item, maybe try to remove the olive oil stain (possibly by absorbing with corn starch), then clean, and condition the item with a regular conditioner to apply a healty, even tone. 2 - If it's more of a utility item to be used as functional and you're ok with the color of the existing oil, lightly conditioning with olive oil can help even out the tone, and add some conditioning. I rarely recommend olive for this, though some folks truly use it much of the time. So it really becomes a personal preference on leather type and how one wants to maintain/keep it. Testing anything in a tiny area usually helps a lot, then once you know you like the result, can often continue with the rest. Wishing you well with it!
@aarondavies8486Ай бұрын
Does it darken the leather as i have a knife sheath and its a bit to much on the red side i wanted to tone it down a bit brilliant video mate
@internationalleatherclubАй бұрын
Hey 😃thanks for the kind words. The wax can "dull" the color some, as it will provide a translucent coating over it (white, or another color wax). It will also give the surafce a different feel, if applied to all of it. There might be some other options to just tone down the color, though if you also like the protection the wax can provide (water and abrasion resistance), then it might work well for that.
@magicalupper978Ай бұрын
I am quite confused about distinguishing full grain and top grain Can you create a video about it? And regarding cordovan Shell, is this type considered full grain?
@internationalleatherclubАй бұрын
Hello 😃, this video might help: kzread.info/dash/bejne/mZV83Jt8ere4o7A.html In general, Full Grain has kept some or all of the uppermost layers of the hide (usually the strongest and most dense). Shell Cordovan is by its nature a strong, dense leather - and as to it being "full grain", it would depend on how the individual tanner processes and finished it.
@AndrewPatterson3001Ай бұрын
I’ve always wanted a full grain veg tan upholstered chair or sofa. Do you know if anyone does that or is it just too tough?
@internationalleatherclubАй бұрын
That would be quite luxurious 😃 There is a popular style of sofa called the Chesterfield sofa that dates back to the 1700s. Lots of shops large and small make them in all different leather types today, it's quite possible someone either does, or already has the experience and skills to make in full grain veg tan.
@donrobbins4861Ай бұрын
But which one makes the leather softer? That's what i was hoping to find out in this video
@internationalleatherclubАй бұрын
Hello 😃 In general between the two the difference will be subtle though the mink oil blend might be a little softer since it includes a few other elements beyond neatsfoot oil (while common mink oil blends often do include neatsfoot oil, too). A truly pure mink oil (99-100% pure, not a blend) will likely soften more. They'll be a little tricker to find, though still available.
@dustang5.O16 күн бұрын
Bick 4 is better than both depending on the type of leather you’re trying to soften up and it doesn’t darken any color. Regardless of what you use, make sure none of the products you use contain silicon like the products in this video.
@internationalleatherclub16 күн бұрын
@@dustang5.O Bick 4 in general performs well, though seems too as of 2017, to have neatsfoot oil and silicone in it: cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0275/0418/1290/files/BICK_4_-_CA_RIGHT_TO_KNOW.pdf?v=1631557742 Many manufactures keep the ingredients vague, and can be tricky to find out more about them. it's really tough to find all-natural conditioners! I think we've come across maybe only a handful out of hundreds of products.
@carenallen5841Ай бұрын
Excellent information video
@internationalleatherclubАй бұрын
Thanks for the support, glad it was helpful!
@sandrastudebaker72 ай бұрын
I enjoyed this simple video...I enjoy redoing Vintage LOUIS VUITTON bags and have issued where I should use the Acrylic finisher or the 4 coat Finisher on my leather project..what do u suggest?
@internationalleatherclub2 ай бұрын
Hello 😃 The Finisher might be a little more forgiving and easier to apply, and has that range of finish styles from matte to gloss. The 4-Coat might dry a little faster, giving less working time especially for larger surfaces (to blend and such), while it can have some enhanced durability after a few coats. For ease and overall good performance, the acrylic finisher is probably useful. For more durability and a little tricker application, the 4 coat could be worth trying. Some finishes can even be "thinned" to preference, so often if I'll be doing repeated work (like you might be with the bags), it can be great to test a few things out and then see what gives the best results for that application. Hope that helps some!
@nowhereman42172 ай бұрын
So I’ve been using a green stropping compound for my work sharp elite sharpening system. I just bought a red .5 micron compound and a white 2.5 micron compound. What’s the grit difference between the two?
@internationalleatherclub2 ай бұрын
Hello 😀 Best would be to check with the manufacturer of the compound as they might have the most accruate reference. Aside from that, there are general grit to micron conversion tables (lots on google) where an approximation can be derived, which might be good depending what the use is.
@Profatniteplayer2 ай бұрын
Can you use it on a leather American football?
@internationalleatherclub2 ай бұрын
Hey 😃 It can work on a lot of leathers, and a natural leather football should see similar results as others. If it's one that will be handled and played with, this can be a helpful option. If it's an archival or vintage piece for preservation, a more gentle, or other preservation approach might help more, as neatsfoot oil can cause some degradation to the fibers over time.
@lilyz57342 ай бұрын
Very helpful! Thank you!
@internationalleatherclub2 ай бұрын
You're very welcome! Thanks for letting us know 😃
@bradnecolemorris63022 ай бұрын
What about the difference between suade and nubuck
@internationalleatherclub2 ай бұрын
Suede is essentially a leather sanded to expose and raise the fibers from the middle layers of a hide. While nubuck is essentially the sanded and raised fibers from the top grain layer of the leather - resulting in shorter and slightly stronger fibers usually found in nubuck vs longer and more flexible fibers in suede).
@DungNguyen-ti9dk2 ай бұрын
I recently bought a few secondhand bag. They are cleaned before shipping but they look dried more than my soul. I’ve been looking into leather care products. Tutorials like this issue highly appreciated 🎉
@DungNguyen-ti9dk2 ай бұрын
Yes as a victim of marketing I was self debate if I should use the yellow saddle soap on my white bag 😆
@internationalleatherclub2 ай бұрын
Thanks for commenting and we're so glad it's helpful! And hopefully it becomes less dry than when it was shipped 😃
@internationalleatherclub2 ай бұрын
@@DungNguyen-ti9dk I originally thought similar! 😃
@DungNguyen-ti9dk2 ай бұрын
@@internationalleatherclub might be off topic but what is better between cadillac leather care and Fiebing’s saddle soap?
@DungNguyen-ti9dk2 ай бұрын
@@internationalleatherclubthank you for your time ❤
@davestelling2 ай бұрын
P.S. I also intend to try the Pecard's on an early 19th century "Pocket" Bible's leather covers...the leather looks very much like the book cover that your using in this presentation; very dry, some flaking, and so on...
@internationalleatherclub2 ай бұрын
It gets me curious I'd love if there were some reference for treatments people have applied 50+ years ago and the results and how they've held up to today. It sounds like you have some really cool collectibles, and into history. We could probably chat it up!
@davestelling2 ай бұрын
Afternoon... How do you feel about Pecard's Antique Leather Conditioner? I understand it is very good for antique leather, and most of all - will not darken the hide? I'm about to try it on the brass wire wrapped leather grip of an 1864 Union light cavalry sabre. After considerable research - I've decided on this product. Enjoyed your presentation, thanks...
@internationalleatherclub2 ай бұрын
Hello! 😀 Thanks for adding to the discussion and mentioning your project, it sounds like an exciting one. Those grips can be especially worn sometimes and very flaky/fragile. And cool that you are preserving history! As to Pecards, I believe they use a distilled Petrolatum ingredient, a refined type of a petroleum-based product. For historical preservation, I'll generally lean towards a full natural ingredient approach where possible (and items might be handled). Or, a natural-state preservation approach regulated primarily by temperature and humidy conditions (essentially leaving the original piece untouched). Usually for archival pieces, I'll generally lean towards not applying anything, as the tanning agents used in older items can vary greatly, and we can never be totally sure how any product (synthetic or natural) might interact. In modern times it's similar, too, and much why manufacturers always put something like "test in a small area first, etc." on their products. So it really comes down to personal preference and how much one wants to learn towards a handle-able object without vs. a viewing piece. Historic items are great! Excited for you
@scrappydope2 ай бұрын
tyvm...ive gotten into fixing leather stuff like work gloves, work boots, and various stuff great thing to know and thanks for the info
@internationalleatherclub2 ай бұрын
You're very welcome, and thanks for taking a moment to comment and add to the discussion. Wishing you well on your projects!
@PeterParker-df6ce2 ай бұрын
Ali spent more time on the ropes than he spent in the ring because he's a bitch fighter.
@ginacute12 ай бұрын
The "Artwork around the world " project actually started here in Germany. I bought the leather from a company in Berlin, tooled the first motif (the globe in the middle), boxed the piece up and sent it over to the second contributing artist. After roughly a year travelling around the world, the leather piece arrived at my place again and I filled the little free space around my motif with the ivy twine. After that, the artwork was framed by a local carpenter and finally made its way back to the U.S. An interesting fact is, that the original box I made for it, was never replaced 😊
@internationalleatherclub2 ай бұрын
Wow! That is exciting context, I've pinned your comment so others can see it, too. The globe is such a natural and symbolic first piece. And I've always been curious about the frame! It's certainly a large, custom piece. Did you choose the overall size yourself, or was there a collective vision for the size beforehand? I wonder if Jim still has the original box. That must have been a small project on it's own you did just to create that 😃 Such an inspiring project that brings the global community closer, it would be great to see more. And thanks for commenting, we're so glad you found this here, I was delighted to see your note.
@ginacute12 ай бұрын
I just found this video by accident, while looking for my leather work online 😊. Way cool to find my work "Playtime" in this video! Yet, there is a wrong information in here. I have never attended the ELWATS Leather Show in the Netherlands 😊. I also, unfortunately, never attended a class from Kathy Flanagan. However, she's a dear "online friend" and I'm honored to have my work hanging next to her pieces in Jim's gallery. I'm a completely self -taught leather crafter 😊
@internationalleatherclub2 ай бұрын
Hi Gina! 😃 It's great to connect, and thank you for sharing more context around this. We aim to be as historically accurate as possible so your mentions certainly add to this. I've updated the description too, to include the title of your work. Which, is incredible, especially so to hear that you are self-taught! It's always special to see great talent express itself, and this piece is definitely one. And agreed, it's great to see this in Jim's studio, we get to learn so much with and from him, it's a real treat for the craft (and us!).
@GoatzombieBubba2 ай бұрын
Bison is technically exotic.
@internationalleatherclub2 ай бұрын
Yes it can have some really unique properties to it, and strength too. Thanks for taking a moment to comment with us
Пікірлер
Always interesting videos! May I ask the difference between Eco Flo Water Leather Dye and Eco Flo Waterstain?
Hi, sure - The Waterstain has a bit of a different solvent composition, as well as some waxes in it. It also generally won't rub-off color as easily as the other. So it's really up to preference and application style if someone might prefer one over the other. In both cases, some sort of top finish is likely beneficial, while it will likely be more necessary for the Eco Flo Water Leather Dye.
I am looking to apply acrylic to veg tanned leather that I have dyed myself. Would you recommend that after dying and conditioning this would be the best time to apply the acrylic paint? I would like the final finish on my leather to be sealed with Resoline would I put an acrylic finish after painting acrylic and then Resoline over top or just Resoline on top of the acrylic paint?
Hey, yep you've got a good approach in mind: dye, condition, acrylic, then resolene. It can often be good to test on scrap if you can, to make sure that whatever formulations of those products work smoothly and don't have any unexpected reactions (even though each will be dry before applying the next). Sounds like a fun project, good luck with it!
A.G. Spaulding and Brothers
Yes, the manufacturer! Very rugged and well-crafted
Just the sort of information I needed. As a beginner it is pretty confusing. Thank you.
You're very welcome, thanks for the message. Always feel free to reach out with questions as you're learning, we'll be glad to help.
Dude, you made the video that I was hoping there was a video about mink oil was like. Thank you. ✌️
Awesome to hear, thanks! Glad it was helpful
Thanks for this helpful info!
You're very welcome! Thanks for the comment 😃
your audio has too much bass in it can't understand what your saying
Hey, thanks for the feedback, the audio could use some balancing. This was an earlier video and we've adjusted the sound balance in more recent ones, so hopefully they're sounding better! 👍 Thanks again for taking a moment to suggest improvements
Will using Neatsfoot oil with more applications make the leather darker?
In general it likely will. Usually, the more conditioning, or applications of a conditioner, will lead to more moisture and a slightly darker color each time. Depending on the formula it might be slight, and it usually dries lighter than it looks when initially applied.
Have you worked with the various other types of dyes used as inks, alcohol dyes, used for painting opposed to paint. I think they are alcohol based, I'm trying to find out more info on them.
Hello 😃 Are you referring to the alcohol inks used for art (tiles, specialized paper, etc.)? Or natural dyes?
@@JonRobinsonArt Hi, I've used several types of dyes, where in general dyes penetrate into the leather fibers, whereas paints usually sit on the surface, changing the color by adding a layer of pigment on top. Let me know what you might has seen or been thinking and I'll help as best I can!
@internationalleatherclub 16 Colors 100ml Vegetable Leather Alcohol dye Leather Coloring Pigment Tanned Leather Manual Dyestuff Amazon find, Generic though. I've seen professional grade, maybe Japanese and I can't remember the name.
@@JonRobinsonArt Ahh I see it I checked it out on Amazon, thanks for the name. I haven't tried that one. Knowing the ingredients/formula is often key. Popular manufacturers can generally be a little more reliable since we know more about the formulas and results, though there are all sorts of smaller/niche manufacturers that can make amazing things. I'll keep my ears open if I come across anything similar, always up to learn more about the options out there. Thanks
I want to make a leather tray for loading my tobacco pipes. I bought a piece of veg tan leather and I would like to know if Neatsfoot oil would be safe for consumables. This is my very first leather project. Thanks.
Hello 😃, that sounds like a fun project. I haven't really considered leather conditioners that are safe for consumption, though happy to brainstorm some if it might help with further exploration. 100% neatsfoot oil I believe is generally natural (derived from bovine elements), though I'm not sure if the production process, packaging, handling, etc is tuned for consumption. There are natural oils, like olive oil, that are sometimes used as leather conditioners. Gnerally, they're not the greatest for long-term care fo the fibers (years, decades, etc.), though if it's for an item that is intended to be kept forever, then the utility of that oil might help make it usable in a case like this. Food grade olive oil might work, though not sure if/how it might degrade over time, from a consumption standpoint. Interesting project! I hope this helps with some thoughts and inspire some further exploration, research, and testing. If anyone else has experience here, please let us know! I'd be curious to learn more about others' experiences.
Thank you very much for the information! I greatly appreciate it! I will let you know how it turns out.
@@jfrancisut Sounds great, and like a fun one!
I’m wondering why any company would put silicone in any of these conditioners, with the only reason being as a cheap filler. Silicon is not good for leather or stitching threads. Easy to verify, as all of the better mink oil or neatsfoot oil conditioners from reputable companies specifically state that they do NOT contain silicon.
Definitely agree! 😃
Can you use a normal tooth brush if you don’t horse hair brush?
Hello, it can usually be ok if the bristles are soft. It might be worth testing on a small area to see if it leaves tiny/light scratches or not, or even gently on the back of the hand to see if it is gentle enough.
@@internationalleatherclub Thanks a bunch for your response : ).
@@Colby2Cheese Anytime!
@@internationalleatherclub I recently used the Kiwi Saddle soap on my leather wallet. However, I think I was too aggressive with it and did 2 cycles of saddle soap on the wallet. The leather wallet now is a little dry, How or what can I use to add moisture back into the leather without color change?
@@Colby2Cheese Using a light, natural conditioner like a Leather Honey might be worth trying. In general, any conditioning will likely darken leather a slight amount (some conditioners slightly, some more noticeably). When thinking about most anything drying up (clothes, foods, trees, many thing etc.) when they dry they usually get lighter in color. And when moisture is added, they usually darken a bit. So for leather it's usually about finding a conditioner that gives good benefit with the least color change.
I live in Mexico and here we only have pumpkin soap which is saddle soap obviously made of pumpkin, know anything about that kind ? And any tips on cleaning and maintaining kangaroo leather soccer cleats?
Hello 😃 I've heard of the El Oso pumpkin soap, though haven't used it yet. Many saddle soaps include a blend of ingredients some of which can be helpful and others less so. So I often read the ingredient list and the decide if the ingredients are something I'm comfortable adding to the leather long-term. Kangaroo is a very durable and strong leather. Cleaning with a gentle cleanser made from natural ingredients can be great, then following up with a natural conditioner like a Leather Honey can be good options. If they're going to be used just for a few years and worn hard, then many popular cleaners/conditioners can give good results, water resistance, stain resistance, etc. Most any leather will benefit from separate cleaning and conditioning with natural products, though for performance items, it becomes a much more personal choice of ease of use and performance results. If you have questions on any specific cleaners, just let us know. Good luck with the project!
Wow very helpful for me . Thank you!
You're very welcome! 😃
Thanks for bringing this information to fans of leatherwork everywhere!
You're very welcome 😃 Thanks for letting us know!
Literally nothing you showed added up. Really surprised you got positive comments on this. You didn't explain how you went from one unit to another or how you ended up anywhere. You give 5.2 ounces total but the scale shows 3.2 ounces. Seriously?
I'm new to the leather craft.. So I have my piece of leather and I use Angelus leather preparer and deglazer to strip off the old finish, I write Holy Bible and Bible version on my cover. next I condition it and then I put on Angelus Acrylic Finisher. Is that right? Thanks for the helpful videos
Hello, in general yes, if you're looking to remove most of any previous finish across the entire surface that can work (since it might alter the color so doing the entire surface can help make it appear more even in tone once conditioned). If you're just looking to prep the area for writing, depending on the writing medium (paint, gold leaf, etc.) it might be ok just to apply on the current surface, then sealing it with finisher (if it's already conditioned). This could help prevent cracking of the writing if it's first applied to a dry surface, that later flexs differently when conditioned. I'll usually try a quick test on scrap, while you're suggested approach can work really well for most things. Wishing you well with the project!
Hello! Thank you so much for your videos. They are by far my favorite. I appreciate how you break each down by the ingrediants and benefits for each. I am interested in making my own "Pro Dye" and have a few questions: 1) What kind of alcohol would be best to use? 2) What kind/grade/brand of ethanol that's recommended? 3) What kind/grade/brand of oleic acid is recommended? 4) Does it matter what composition of pigment is mixed in with the oleic acid? Mica/alcohol/natural earth/etc I appreciate your help...thank you!
You're very welcome 😃 glad they are helpful. It can be exciting to make a custom dye, in terms of ingredients, there are a range of factors from potency, availability, safety, and desired end result, and more. A great place to begin can be to look at the manufacturer material safety data sheets, as they provide broad breakdowns of ingredients and components used in popular dyes. From there, it's really determing the result that you'd like, and then developing and testing the right balance for what you're looking for. We'd be curious if you pursue it, please share more! Maybe yours will be the next new dye on the market.
I have a couple of deep scratches on my work boots that you recommend I can use to fill the gap. something that sticks and doesn't come off
Something called a "leather filler" can work well. It can fill in the material lost from the deep scratches, and also dry flexible. Some color match existing leather, and others can be painted to match.
@@internationalleatherclub thank you
i use jabon de calabaza, El Oso (pumpkin soap) is saddle soap with pumpkin oil and wax.
I'll have to learn more about that one, many oils can have conditioning effects and protective aspects with the wax. Thanks for mentioning it!
Just think if Vincent rebuffed Warren’s orders pointing out that he already had orders from his superior. Warren also didn’t have direct authority over Vincent.
It's incredible to think of the impacts from in-monent decisions, and what leadership can truly mean in those contexts. For example when is it ok to change the implementation of orders when the present context clearly can benefit from it? And is it ignoring orders or more using the latest field info to refine them? Dan Sickles advancing into the Peach Orchard could be clear ignoring orders that led to negative results. Warren and Vincent covering Little Round Top might have saved the day, possibly the battle (and depending how much value one places on the strategic importantce of the battle, maybe even war). Fascinating to think about! 😃
General Warrens career met an untimely end during the final battles of the war. He was unceremoniously relieved of command of the 5th Corps during the battle of Five Forks by General Phil Sheridan. Two of his three divisions began their attacks improperly aligned to strike the confederates of George Pickett's division. Sheridan relieved Warren for cause and appointed Joshua Chamberlain as commander when he saw what had happened. Warren became the only union General relieved for cause during battle in the war. Warren appealed to Grant but was ignored.
It was great that he was later exonerated, when President Hayes ordered a court of inquiry, and even Chamberlain spoke very highly in support of him. It seems his intuition and ability to read the context of a situation were a special trait for his leadership (Gettysburg, Mine Run Campaign). And exciting that soon after the war he was elected as a member of the very prestigious American Philosophical Society. In the past its members included George Washington, John Adams, Thomas Jefferson, Thomas Paine, James Madison, Alexander Hamilton, and John Marshall. It was founded by Ben Franklin. He was in good company.
I just saw this in my local leather crafting store! I saw they also had Eco Flo "Super Shene", Fiebing's Bag-Kote, & Tan-Kote version, is there a difference between these or is Resolene maybe geared more towards dyed leather? They have the latter in a neutral, so I'm guessing it's a clear coat? Excited to hear your response, thank you for educating!
Hey! 😃 You're welcome, glad it's helpful info to watch. For those products, it mainly comes down to preference on finished look and performance characteristics. Roughly, I believe it is: Bag Kote - water based, soft, satin finish Resolene - gloss acrylic Tan-Kote - Resin based satin finish Super-Shene - Water based water repellent gloss finish What type of project are you planning to use it for?
@@internationalleatherclub Sorry about the late response! Ohh! I prefer satin/matte finishes but does that diminish the protection overall? I don't mind sacrificing the appearance for it if that's the case, but I plan to use these projects while out and about! I work with treats, painting, animal-grooming care--all separate, aha! 😊 Though I planned to also make a few organisers based on hobbies, so some might be bent, is there anything to help with that as well?
@@pimpompim No worries! 😃 For out and about something with water resistance might have benefit, and in general the finish appearance (shiny, matter, etc.) should have little impact on performance. Key will be the components used in the formula and their performance characterists for the intended use you've got. They should cover most leathers well, even those with bends and molded shapes. Sounds like a fun project!
Ooo, thank goodness, all the more to play around and test--Thank you kindly!
@@pimpompim It can be fun, enjoy!
I really like Renia black. I used an airbrush to apply it. It’s also an alcohol/oil if I understand correctly
We'll have to try more out with that brand. Do you find it has any unique pros/cons? Airbrushing sounds like an excellent technique to develop, too.
Sir I am glad I found you. I hope you'll have the answer to my question. So I just started leather working. I die one of the belts but it seems like I need to seal it so that the tint won rub on my pants and also so that the chemical of tint does not stays on my had. That thing stinks like stage 2 lung cancer. Can I use beeswax as sealant? I used pro dye on my belt. The reason I ask is because I rather use a more natural product to seal the belts since I will be making belts for my hole family and I don't want to use a chemical sealant. What would be your thoughts on this?
Hello 😃 That is a great question, as dye rubbing off can be quite challenging. In general, wax can work though it can take time to apply evenly (especially on larger pieces), and will often need to be periodically reapplied over time in areas of high wear. Something easier to apply and a little more permanent is an acrylic resolene, though that get's into the synthetic materials a bit. So it becomes a tradeoff. Another option, for items made in the future, could be to purchase leather pre-dyed at the tannery in the color you want. In general, these are finished in such a way as to have minimal to no color rub-off, which could save you the application step alltogether. Wishing you well with the projects!
@@internationalleatherclub Yes I was thinking on just getting it already tinted that what I will do for my next order, but I need to make sure I get deep into this with the little tools I have first before buy like crazy and end up not doing more stuff. I ended up trying boiled linseed oil But I do not think it worked, it made it look nicer but I was still able to rub off the tint. I do appreciate your reply.
@@gallogollo1141 That's exciting you're trying things out, it's often one of the best ways to learn. Always feel welcome to reach out with questions, enjoy crafting!
What is the best dye, saphir?
Saphir makes some excellent quality products across their lines, Fiebings makes some really nice dyes, too
One million dollar 😊
At least that, it's amazing! 😃
Doesn't make sense. "You don't have a sturdy table" clamp a heavy metal piece to it and hammer on it?
Hey 😃, good question, some folks might have a thinner wood or other material table, while by a corner or stronger leg of the table, vertical forces can be more efficiently distributed. Certainly, context and common sense would rule any setup choices, where sometimes creative thinking can help overcome some things that initially seem like limitations.
I also got ons from ebay its Majestic 🥹✨️🤌
What a great find! It probably has a nice feel to it, too
@internationalleatherclub I actually used to be a CCA letter carrier for USPS, it was my first job back in the early 2010s! We never used these bags, we used ones made out of cotton and polyester which easily collected pet hair and stuff which sucked
@@tonynasaofficial Such a cool transition from there to what I would deduce is NASA currently, thanks for your public service in a number of ways! I wonder if cost was the driver to switch materials. It seems many things made through the early half of the 1900s would generally perform better and last longer (leather items, boots, shoes, wool coats/clothing, etc.), often while providing a better user experience.
Which should be used for replacement of sewing awl to be used by hand
Hello 😃, the type of project will be a factor in good needle selection. What sort of item are you planning to work with/make?
@@internationalleatherclub i am making leather football shoe, I want to sew it with hands, I want machine needle which should be around 3 inches long,
@@amolpatil8777 That sounds like a fun project. For a machine needle it would depend on the specific machine it might be used for. If sewing by hand, something like a glovers needle, or a saddler's harness needle might work well.
@@internationalleatherclub its not a fun project, i am making shoes for myself, i have 2 different size feet and hence i have to make them otherwise buy 2 different pairs As for the doubt, which needle type is having longest needle for sewing on machine, i want maximum length ?
@@amolpatil8777 I understand what you are saying about the different sizes, I imagine that can be frustrating at times. For the machine needle, I'd suggest looking up the needles that fit your specific machine, as that will help ensure whatever you choose will fit it just right and help to give good results. Wishing you well with the project, I hope it all goes great.
Is the color rubbing off as much with Eco Flo water as it is with ProDye?
Hello great question - we haven't done long-term rub-off tests on them, though in general most leather that has not been factory-dyed, will generally benefit from a sealing layer over a home-dyed piece. For example a resolene coating or something similar. This helps as many will rub off somewhat over time (even when buffed thoroughly), and can vary in amount based on conditions used in (like something for everyday wear that might come into contact with rain, etc.). So with a coating, it becomes less key which one naturally rubs off more, while that's also a great things to know and something we'd be curious to explore, too. Thanks for adding to the discussion.
@@internationalleatherclub Wow thank you for responding to the question yourself, all I hoped for was a random reader comment 🥰
@@glacialimpala You're welcome! It was a great question, glad to try and help 👍
If leather was stained by olive oil, would the best bet be to apply olive oil to the whole item, or is one of these oils preferable to try and even out the color?
Hello 😃 There can be a few variables like leather type, absorbancy, etc. Though as a simple answer, here are a few thoughts: Olive oil isn't great for heirloom leather or items that will be kept and used for decades. That said, it's often not as bad as some synthetic leather conditioners. Basically, anything that goes into the leather generally stays in there. Options can be: 1 - If it's a very important or long-term heirloom item, maybe try to remove the olive oil stain (possibly by absorbing with corn starch), then clean, and condition the item with a regular conditioner to apply a healty, even tone. 2 - If it's more of a utility item to be used as functional and you're ok with the color of the existing oil, lightly conditioning with olive oil can help even out the tone, and add some conditioning. I rarely recommend olive for this, though some folks truly use it much of the time. So it really becomes a personal preference on leather type and how one wants to maintain/keep it. Testing anything in a tiny area usually helps a lot, then once you know you like the result, can often continue with the rest. Wishing you well with it!
Does it darken the leather as i have a knife sheath and its a bit to much on the red side i wanted to tone it down a bit brilliant video mate
Hey 😃thanks for the kind words. The wax can "dull" the color some, as it will provide a translucent coating over it (white, or another color wax). It will also give the surafce a different feel, if applied to all of it. There might be some other options to just tone down the color, though if you also like the protection the wax can provide (water and abrasion resistance), then it might work well for that.
I am quite confused about distinguishing full grain and top grain Can you create a video about it? And regarding cordovan Shell, is this type considered full grain?
Hello 😃, this video might help: kzread.info/dash/bejne/mZV83Jt8ere4o7A.html In general, Full Grain has kept some or all of the uppermost layers of the hide (usually the strongest and most dense). Shell Cordovan is by its nature a strong, dense leather - and as to it being "full grain", it would depend on how the individual tanner processes and finished it.
I’ve always wanted a full grain veg tan upholstered chair or sofa. Do you know if anyone does that or is it just too tough?
That would be quite luxurious 😃 There is a popular style of sofa called the Chesterfield sofa that dates back to the 1700s. Lots of shops large and small make them in all different leather types today, it's quite possible someone either does, or already has the experience and skills to make in full grain veg tan.
But which one makes the leather softer? That's what i was hoping to find out in this video
Hello 😃 In general between the two the difference will be subtle though the mink oil blend might be a little softer since it includes a few other elements beyond neatsfoot oil (while common mink oil blends often do include neatsfoot oil, too). A truly pure mink oil (99-100% pure, not a blend) will likely soften more. They'll be a little tricker to find, though still available.
Bick 4 is better than both depending on the type of leather you’re trying to soften up and it doesn’t darken any color. Regardless of what you use, make sure none of the products you use contain silicon like the products in this video.
@@dustang5.O Bick 4 in general performs well, though seems too as of 2017, to have neatsfoot oil and silicone in it: cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0275/0418/1290/files/BICK_4_-_CA_RIGHT_TO_KNOW.pdf?v=1631557742 Many manufactures keep the ingredients vague, and can be tricky to find out more about them. it's really tough to find all-natural conditioners! I think we've come across maybe only a handful out of hundreds of products.
Excellent information video
Thanks for the support, glad it was helpful!
I enjoyed this simple video...I enjoy redoing Vintage LOUIS VUITTON bags and have issued where I should use the Acrylic finisher or the 4 coat Finisher on my leather project..what do u suggest?
Hello 😃 The Finisher might be a little more forgiving and easier to apply, and has that range of finish styles from matte to gloss. The 4-Coat might dry a little faster, giving less working time especially for larger surfaces (to blend and such), while it can have some enhanced durability after a few coats. For ease and overall good performance, the acrylic finisher is probably useful. For more durability and a little tricker application, the 4 coat could be worth trying. Some finishes can even be "thinned" to preference, so often if I'll be doing repeated work (like you might be with the bags), it can be great to test a few things out and then see what gives the best results for that application. Hope that helps some!
So I’ve been using a green stropping compound for my work sharp elite sharpening system. I just bought a red .5 micron compound and a white 2.5 micron compound. What’s the grit difference between the two?
Hello 😀 Best would be to check with the manufacturer of the compound as they might have the most accruate reference. Aside from that, there are general grit to micron conversion tables (lots on google) where an approximation can be derived, which might be good depending what the use is.
Can you use it on a leather American football?
Hey 😃 It can work on a lot of leathers, and a natural leather football should see similar results as others. If it's one that will be handled and played with, this can be a helpful option. If it's an archival or vintage piece for preservation, a more gentle, or other preservation approach might help more, as neatsfoot oil can cause some degradation to the fibers over time.
Very helpful! Thank you!
You're very welcome! Thanks for letting us know 😃
What about the difference between suade and nubuck
Suede is essentially a leather sanded to expose and raise the fibers from the middle layers of a hide. While nubuck is essentially the sanded and raised fibers from the top grain layer of the leather - resulting in shorter and slightly stronger fibers usually found in nubuck vs longer and more flexible fibers in suede).
I recently bought a few secondhand bag. They are cleaned before shipping but they look dried more than my soul. I’ve been looking into leather care products. Tutorials like this issue highly appreciated 🎉
Yes as a victim of marketing I was self debate if I should use the yellow saddle soap on my white bag 😆
Thanks for commenting and we're so glad it's helpful! And hopefully it becomes less dry than when it was shipped 😃
@@DungNguyen-ti9dk I originally thought similar! 😃
@@internationalleatherclub might be off topic but what is better between cadillac leather care and Fiebing’s saddle soap?
@@internationalleatherclubthank you for your time ❤
P.S. I also intend to try the Pecard's on an early 19th century "Pocket" Bible's leather covers...the leather looks very much like the book cover that your using in this presentation; very dry, some flaking, and so on...
It gets me curious I'd love if there were some reference for treatments people have applied 50+ years ago and the results and how they've held up to today. It sounds like you have some really cool collectibles, and into history. We could probably chat it up!
Afternoon... How do you feel about Pecard's Antique Leather Conditioner? I understand it is very good for antique leather, and most of all - will not darken the hide? I'm about to try it on the brass wire wrapped leather grip of an 1864 Union light cavalry sabre. After considerable research - I've decided on this product. Enjoyed your presentation, thanks...
Hello! 😀 Thanks for adding to the discussion and mentioning your project, it sounds like an exciting one. Those grips can be especially worn sometimes and very flaky/fragile. And cool that you are preserving history! As to Pecards, I believe they use a distilled Petrolatum ingredient, a refined type of a petroleum-based product. For historical preservation, I'll generally lean towards a full natural ingredient approach where possible (and items might be handled). Or, a natural-state preservation approach regulated primarily by temperature and humidy conditions (essentially leaving the original piece untouched). Usually for archival pieces, I'll generally lean towards not applying anything, as the tanning agents used in older items can vary greatly, and we can never be totally sure how any product (synthetic or natural) might interact. In modern times it's similar, too, and much why manufacturers always put something like "test in a small area first, etc." on their products. So it really comes down to personal preference and how much one wants to learn towards a handle-able object without vs. a viewing piece. Historic items are great! Excited for you
tyvm...ive gotten into fixing leather stuff like work gloves, work boots, and various stuff great thing to know and thanks for the info
You're very welcome, and thanks for taking a moment to comment and add to the discussion. Wishing you well on your projects!
Ali spent more time on the ropes than he spent in the ring because he's a bitch fighter.
The "Artwork around the world " project actually started here in Germany. I bought the leather from a company in Berlin, tooled the first motif (the globe in the middle), boxed the piece up and sent it over to the second contributing artist. After roughly a year travelling around the world, the leather piece arrived at my place again and I filled the little free space around my motif with the ivy twine. After that, the artwork was framed by a local carpenter and finally made its way back to the U.S. An interesting fact is, that the original box I made for it, was never replaced 😊
Wow! That is exciting context, I've pinned your comment so others can see it, too. The globe is such a natural and symbolic first piece. And I've always been curious about the frame! It's certainly a large, custom piece. Did you choose the overall size yourself, or was there a collective vision for the size beforehand? I wonder if Jim still has the original box. That must have been a small project on it's own you did just to create that 😃 Such an inspiring project that brings the global community closer, it would be great to see more. And thanks for commenting, we're so glad you found this here, I was delighted to see your note.
I just found this video by accident, while looking for my leather work online 😊. Way cool to find my work "Playtime" in this video! Yet, there is a wrong information in here. I have never attended the ELWATS Leather Show in the Netherlands 😊. I also, unfortunately, never attended a class from Kathy Flanagan. However, she's a dear "online friend" and I'm honored to have my work hanging next to her pieces in Jim's gallery. I'm a completely self -taught leather crafter 😊
Hi Gina! 😃 It's great to connect, and thank you for sharing more context around this. We aim to be as historically accurate as possible so your mentions certainly add to this. I've updated the description too, to include the title of your work. Which, is incredible, especially so to hear that you are self-taught! It's always special to see great talent express itself, and this piece is definitely one. And agreed, it's great to see this in Jim's studio, we get to learn so much with and from him, it's a real treat for the craft (and us!).
Bison is technically exotic.
Yes it can have some really unique properties to it, and strength too. Thanks for taking a moment to comment with us