MBCA Peachtree is section of the Mercedes-Benz Club of America located in the greater Atlanta area of Georgia. This channel is a collection of videos as they relate to the care and ownership of our Mercedes-Benz automobiles.
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could you list the different type sealers and anything else I would need to changeout the head gasket? thank you
I am sorry but I don’t have access to my garage or files right now. The sealant for the rear corner of the timing cover is critical, but I can’t just run downstairs and grab it, I think it was a Locktite part but I think it had a BMW part number. Did I leave that out of the video? Get a head gasket set, but ensure you have a an original Mercedes head gasket. I think I bought a head gasket set but then also bought a separate Mercedes head gasket, in fact when I do these jobs I usually buy two, just in case. The three bolts that hold the timing gear on the front of the exhaust cam are supposed to be one time use too. I bought a complete set of head bolts, but you can reuse the originals if they have not stretched beyond a limit that you will find in the workshop manual. I could have reused mine but I put in new ones since I had them. You’ll want seals for the exhaust manifolds to the down pipes (if things go well you can leave the exhaust manifolds on the heads, I was unable to do that however). Make sure your head gasket set includes the timing cover seals, and make sure they don’t roll when you install them. Make sure you have the cam cover gasket too. I also bought the two large diameter rubber pieces that attach the upper and lower intake manifolds, and it’s useful to have some vacuum line because you’ll almost certainly find one that’s brittle and will break. A tool set to remove the water pump pulley is very helpful. You’ll need coolant and distilled water. It’s a good time to replace the serpentine belt since you’ll have it off and they’re pretty cheap. Plastic razor blades are useful for cleaning the head, and I also bought a precision straight edge so I could check for warp age. Went through a lot of paper towels too and a some masking tape as well, plus ziplock bags…..! It would also be good to procure the small bolts and nuts used to remove the parts that secure the timing chain guides (I talk about that in the video) and of course the timing chain upper guides. I had to stop several times when I was doing the job to order more parts. Good luck!
Hi I have a m104 c36 and I’m getting oil in my coolant - what were your symptoms
First I had an oil leak at the right rear of the head, which was putting some oil on the exhaust and causing some smoke. That wasn't bad enough to make me want change the head gasket, but then I got a pretty bad coolant leak from just forward of the oil leak. I did a coolant pressure test to find the leak and it was immediately apparent (a big leak). I never had any oil in the coolant, however the C36 is a little different beast. The rear coolant passage and oil supply passage in the head are adjacent to each other, and since the oil pressure is generally higher than the coolant pressure when the engine is running, a head leak there would cause your symptoms, even without external leakage.
Thank you for taking the time to reply - that is very helpful - I was hoping it would be the oil cooler but I’m thinking it’s the head gasket .
@@davidcroker5660If the car has an oil cooler, then a leak there would certainly do this and it's probably easier to fix than the head gasket. I'm just not familiar with the C36 variant of the engine.
+1 .. Herr Gary Edwards & Frau Edwards, .. Many thanks! .. Danke Schoen! .. Our from neu '94 C124 family handed down 3.2 M104 Coupe (USA) thanks you all. .. The H.G. let loose @ 100K miles. .. Our two sons and I will tackle the H.G. replacement procedure; just as I did with my Dad and his '65 red Sunbeam Alpine 4cyl. (I was 14.) .. Think "Critical Path" with a little help from our friends @ MBCA. .. Cheers, M/S Vail, Colorado
Sounds like a great father / son bonding experience. 94 C124 should be almost the same as the car in the video (I have two of them as well, one has had head gasket replaced, the other has not). Just take your time and do exactly as the procedure says. I recall that I had a hard time getting the head lined up properly; the intake and exhaust manifolds get in the way of seeing the alignment. I think I finally used a flashlight looking down the bolt holes with a head bolt to help. Good luck and have fun!
1999 Sl500 owner - PURE CLASS
I have a 97 sl320 with 27,000 miles in perfect condition. Great car but I am thinking of selling it. All original with NO modifications.
Wow did you take off the intake manifold bolts?
No, never removed the intake manifold from the cylinder head. Just removed the upper intake manifold from the lower manifold.
The R129 lives! Love my 2000 SL500.
Pre 2012 Mercedes M271 engines, even having less than 80,000 miles, are said to have problem of worn sprocket gears on camshaft adjusters. The hole on base plate of camshaft adjuster, where the locking pin will sit on, also tends to wear out. Also high wear on circumference of roller pins, on timing chain, that eventually elongate the timing chain. Great if these problems can be minimised by changing engine oil and oil filter every 5000 miles. Great for people buying or keeping their Mercedes. Any comments?. What is negative effect, of not taking care of crankcase positive ventilation system, in an engine?. Is there a low value of negative pressure, in an engine crankcase, whereby it starts to interfer with engine lubrication?. Regards.
When referencing head gasket job was that just for v6?
Carl, it does not apply to the V6, it's only for the M104 straight six.
Thanks for the video and timestamps
You are welcome. It takes a little longer to post, but it's always worth it.
I have a real nice AMG 600 r129
Great job thanks
Thank you for the kind words.
I just bought a '95 SL500 and it came with the '16 hole man cover wheels' as the guy called them. Anyone know if those are the original wheels?
Hi, My 1990 300Sl has ben leaking (weeping) oil from the rear of the head for 10 years now. Its a seasonal vehicle for me in PA and every year I clean the rear of the engine and front of the trans where it drips then blow it off with compressed air. It last a few weeks (3 or 4) depending on usage before I have to do it again. Regrettably with 80000 miles on the car I think this year I'm going to sell it. If I could find someone local to fix it for say 2500 dollars I guess I would fix it. Trouble is no one here will do it. After seeing this I will not be tackling this job and I have been a DIY er for a long time but at 59 years old my back would suffer too much from this job. Thanks a lot for posting this.
John, I'm sorry to hear that but I would think you'd be able to find a Mercedes specialist in your area willing to tackle the job. It's really not that bad for a DIYer; you do certainly need to use an engine lift to pickup and reset the head due to the weight though. I used large pillows on the fenders and front crossmember so I could lean on them while doing the work and it wasn't too bad on my back (I'm 65 years old by the way). Gary
Just about to switch out when I saw the old Mercedes on the 3rd minute. 😂😂. A long video. 20 years ago I had read tgat a well blend synthetic can be even better than a fully synthetic. If not mistaken base oil I is solvent extracted with aromatic still above 10%. Base oil II is lightly hydrocracked with aromatic below 2%. Base oil III is highly hydrocracked or even from gas to liquid plant with less than 0.1% aromatic and are >95% parraffinic. Its being said that additives need some aromatic to mix/blend well with the base oil. So is fully synthetic oil are using newer generation of additives which was not avialable 10 to 20 years ago?. I am getting a old supercharged mercedes E200k which is famous for timing chain and sprocket wear which can happened as low as 60,000 miles. From your last hour of this video looks like it is better for me to use european spec of engine oil usable for both gasoline and diesel engine. Correct?. Since I am in area a bit north of Singapore, which never drop below 70 deg F for night time to day time max of 98 deg F. I am going to choose semi synthetic 10W 40 SL. PS. I have once saw a manifest stating US700 per ton for those base oil III. Yet fully synthetic oil (without POA) here is USD40 to USD50 for 4 litres vs just a bit less of USD 30 to 35 for semi synthetic blend. Food for thought. 🤔🤔🤔. Looks like CASE driven milage mandate was not discussed and the push on using 0w 20 engine also starts hapoening over here after 2016. Before this the same Honda car model is using 5W 30 or 10W 20. Also suspect that this is in parallel to more and more amount of highly hydrocracked base oil III coming into the market. Not sure how this are tied up to issue of cars in USA having high oil consumption just after 20,000 miles on the road. Regards.
Thanks to all involved in making this possible. I still have my 98 500 and 94 600,I do all repairs on both cars myself,I have had 3 parts cars over the years so I have a good supply of spare parts for these cars. I have replaced most cylinders on both cars,I have used top hydraulics for rebuild service,but the last couple cylinders I reseald myself,I figured I would try it and see how they hold up,so far it's been about two years and no leaks. The 98 has been a rock solid reliable car,the 94 not so much. I have replaced/ repaired so much on that one that I have probably invested far more than it is worth,but I will continue to throw money at it as needed as long as I am able as it is one of my all time favorites,and I have had well over 100 cars through the years. I am in the automotive field for 40 years now. I have seen most all there is but, the r129 has always been a favorite of mine,from the styling to the engineering,sure there are much easier cars to work on,and more reliable at that,( I worked for Toyota for 20 years)but I have yet to have the overall satisfaction of any vehicle compared to the 129 chassis. Thanks to all for keeping these going. Just curios what areas are you all from? I am south west PA.
You're welcome and thank you for the nice comment.
Great job. Thank you.
Thanks for watching!
One of my friends just pointed out that the prices in here are getting pretty dated - this discussion is now about two years old and the prices have gone up some. I still think that they are great cars for the money, just not as cheap as they used to be.
Good point. I'll see if we can add something to the video description to cover that.
There is the R129 Captian! Thanks for this video!
Sl r129 ❤👍👍👍🧢🧢🧢
Came across this video by pure chance and wanted to say thank you for an excellent clear presentation. I have just taken the plunge (as of Jan 2022) to purchase a Dec 1994 W463 G320 Wagon. It also has this M104 engine and your video has provided me confidence to do the head gasket when it will be needed. And, whilst I love the car I am very disappointed about the lack of technical information there is available. I am desperate to get hold of a copy of the Technical & Repair manual (preferably in English) to be able to undertake the basic servicing and repairs. I have joined forums but so far no one has been able to help. I really appreciate the link that you someone in your group provided for your model, and some of which I can use. However there are many differences and I need the specific Technical document. I would really appreciate it if anyone in your community could help me out. I'll keep watching your videos with great interest. Regards, CHL.
@coolhandluke7760 Recently came up to my hands the workshop manuals ASRA/WIS for all the models since the 60’s If you need some info, docs, tools needed, images, even the estimated time of the operations, let me know, Im glad to share it
Btw my m104 2.8 also had a head gasket, timing chain tensor and valve cover gasket replace and runs well at 358k km
I have a w202 c280 2.8 M104. I have the oil leak in the front right corner of the head, or left side if looking from the front (exhaust side) Do you think I need to change the head gasket? Or do you think it may be that timing cover seal?
Shame you can't get an SL500 with a manual gearbox.
Hi new to this channel, I own the 1997 SL500 La costa edition, (calypso green) very rare car and I love it, used to be my daily driver, it's now a weekender.
Very Cool. Doug Demuro did a review of a 2002 SL500 Silver Arrow last year and referred to it as "the last old school Mercedes Benz" and an excellent example of the early 2000s shift to a more mainstream sales approach.
This was extremely informative. Thanks for posting this....
Glad you enjoyed it!
Beautiful
Great information thank You George. I have an 84 500sl euro, it is in great shape , just a couple of issues , I will email
The driver's side high beam on my 1998 R129 does work. Tried several bulbs to no avail, wiring looks ok. Any suggests on where to look next ?
Have you looked at fuses? Without pulling out the fuse box diagram, I'll comment that Mercedes usually fuses the lights separately so one fuse failure doesn't drop both headlights (Typically fuses high and low beams separately too).
i just bought a 2000 Sl 500 Sport with AMG wheels for $3000 with 205K miles and its runs GREAT,
Thank you Lake for the outstanding presentation, and thanks to the MBCA Peachtree Section for making arrangements.
Thanks for the feedback. We view this as a real gem on the channel. Please share it to friends and family that you feel would benefit from the information.
Hi I just purchased a 1993 sl600 in immaculate condition and I’m looking for a bit of info since I know nothing about it Someone please help [email protected]
Wow...this is one of a kind explanation! It has been hugely helpful!!! One question, if we reuse the MB stock hg, isn't it going to fail again? Is this also applied for the m104 of the C36 engine?
I understand that the stock head gasket has been updated many times and it's the one you should use when you do this repair; I would expect that the new one's life would be longer than the original one. I don't have any experience with the C36 engine, but I would expect the issues would be similar since I'm pretty sure the block is the same casting so the oil passages would be in the same place.
Thank you Great information
You can buy mine it's a 1994 SL500.. take the POS away for $1,500
What state are you in?
When you refilled the coolant, how long did you idle it with the cap open to wait for the gasket to swell? Like what's the procedure
The workshop manual just says “The cylinder head gasket is not watertight until the engine has reached operating temperature, in other words, until a swelling operation has taken place. For this reason, the cooling system must not be pressure tested until after the engine has reached operating temperature”. I filled it normally and warmed it with the cap on. I refrained from doing a coolant pressure test, which I would normally have done before starting the engine.
29’50” evaporator temperature sensor. VERY HELPFUL! Thank you 🙏🏻
Wish there would be more to see about the car not just last seconds quick gazing..
Replacement key FOBs are currently unavailable from dealers. Any idea where or how to get a new one?
I don't have a good answer for this one. I follow this intermittently on the forums, and I periodically see folks tapping into supplies of these. It seems that some small amount are sometimes available, but it varies by year and yesterday's situation may differ from tomorrows. The internet forums are your best friend for this one.
@@garyedwards6398 thanks for your answer. I am on the hunt in the forums and everywhere even went to Stuttgart without success. if my key deteriorates further I might have to trash my mint SL ..
@@siegfriedbarfuss9379 You might give the Classic Center a call.
@@garyedwards6398 thank you. Yes I did and talked to someone very friendly named Chuck - he told me what to tell the dealer and I did. But the dealer did not confirm availability - this is going back and forth for almost a year now .. tried multiple dealers also in Germany ..
Timing chain! Check your timing chain and guides unless you want to destroy your engine.
At 34 minutes he needed to say a lot more about paint care. And I think what he was referring to were ceramic coatings and now graphene coatings. I give Detailing Clinics to the Jaguar Car Club of North Florida. You can check my Instagram site out @phil_arnold_detailingclassics This guy really knows the mechanical side extremely well. I love his expertise. I might be more knowledgeable on paint though. I really commend your club for having a You Tube site and posting such really great information. I wish the local Jaguar Club here would do the same. Thanks 😊 Phil Arnold
Phil, Thanks for the feedback. We do have videos up on prepping for photography and concours, but I don't believe either touched on paint correction or really current coatings. That's a great idea for a video on its own, thanks!
This is such a great reference for R107 owners. Thanks much for organizing all of this important information. As a new owner of a 1973 450SL model this gives me critical information to follow up on. Thanks again.
Sorry about the double post. Results were about the same. Sincerely for sure.
Hi George This is excellent information for any Mercedes enthusiast, especially someone like myself who is new to the Classic side (1973 450 SL with 43K). Thanks so much
Glad you enjoyed it
Nice
A V12 Silver Arrow with after market rims... Come on!!!!
So, currently at 129 likes, I'm a little hesitant to press it one more... Long live the R129!
I own a 1993 600SL and was very interested in seeing this video. It could have been so much better with proper camera work where we could actually see the flaws you were drawing attention to.
Thanks for the feedback, we've had similar comments on this video and will try harder with future videos. You may want to look at our General Concours Judging Tips video that does include detailed photos albeit across a wider range of Mercedes cars.
@@MBCAPeachTube I enjoyed the video very much and thank you greatly for taking the time to record and post it.
The camera doesn't show what the speaker talks about. It's a little frustrating.
Thanks for the feedback, we've had similar comments on this video and will try harder with future videos. You may want to look at our General Concours Judging Tips video that does include detailed photos albeit across a wider range of Mercedes cars.
The best car I have ever owned was a 1991 sl 300 Lorinser Edition. I bought it in 2000 so it was 9 years old but with the Lorinser Kit it looked better than the new ones. When I rolled up in that car I got whatever I wanted. I love this video im 48 years old now, I think i want to try out a sl 500 with xenon headlights next. Appreciate your information!!!
Did you have any photos of your car? I just bought a 1996 SL 320, with some Lorinser d-93s I never saw the whole kit on the car before!
Hi everyone, I have just purchased a R129 Sl280 97 with the m104 engine. I was told there was a slight oil leak before buying, however after owning the car for a week the oil is dripping on my driveway!! Left overnight about 3cm diameter in leak on the floor. Is oil dripping on the floor major concern? I was told by the owner that if there is no overheating on the car then it should be fine. There is no signs of overheating, however the thermostat somehow reads just above 60degree which is a tad low. Should i fix the headgasket now, or is oil dripping on the floor a major red flag? Please any advice would be great guys!
I recommend that you first determine the source of the oil leak. With the engine cold, run your hand down the right rear of the bottom of the head and behind the head (below the joint with the block). If this area is wet, clean it off, drive the car (let it cool) then see if it comes back in that area. Look carefully to ensure it's not the cam cover leaking, since that repair is very straightforward. Right rear low below the head is head gasket. Right rear high above the head gasket is probably cam cover. Right front at the level of the head gasket is typically from the front timing cover; not as easy as the cam cover but much easier than the head gasket. If it's the head gasket and no coolant is leaking, you can defer repair until the oil usage becomes excessive. Your coolant temperature sounds low, it will normally sit with the needle somewhere on the 80, but at really cold ambient temperatures I've seen them lower than normal. At anything above about 60 degrees F, you should see a normal coolant temperature with the needle on the 80.
@@garyedwards6398 Thank you very much for the speedy reply. I will keep you updated on my headgasket journey
@@garyedwards6398 So update on my oil leak. Took it to my local Mercedes specialist and the following was replaced and fixed: 1. Oil filter gaskets and seals 2. Oil cooler gaskets and seals 3. Front upper timing chest cover 4. Rocker cover gaskets and seals 5. Also on the receipt a Aux Drive Belt was fitted, not entirely sure what that is. All in cost me £700 and finally no oil is leaking/dripping on my driveway! Still surprised, when i purchased the car i was told the headgasket is leaking slightly and would need to be fixed at some point. That would of set me back £1500. Sometimes the problem isn't worse than you initially think. Thanks for all your help and advice sir, Now i'll be on the hunt for a panoramic roof or Monoblocks, which is better? ;)
@@As_129sl I am glad it was less severe than you were fearing. As far as mono-blocks versus panoramic roof, I guess it just depends on your individual likes and dislikes. I have monoblock ones and monoblock twos, but I only have them on sport version cars where they are correct for the car. My preference on the non-sport cars is the 8 hole stock wheels as on the car pictured in the video. Pano roof is great and I wish I had one, but quite expensive. All roofs will fit on all years of cars but the side window seals are different on the cars that have the window drop feature, so be aware of that.
I picked up a 1993 S320 last year with an oil leak at around 160k on the original head gasket, and 16 months later and it hasn't gotten any worse. I switched from 10W30 to 15w50 (I live in a subtropical climate) and keep it at 6.5-7L instead of 7.5L. I only have to top it up once every couple of months even with doing mostly highway miles. I did a few mods to keep the operating temperature slightly lower - W123 300D thermostat - 1kohm resistor on the fan thermostat - to prevent the engine getting TOO hot in traffic with the air con going.
He sounds South African...
Good ear, I believe he does hail from South Africa.