Excellent. Thanks for taking the time to share this with us!
@dailydrivenmuscle.18 күн бұрын
Agree, change your oil.
@bbodine24 күн бұрын
You 'da man!!! Simple. Logical. NOT SCARY!!! Thx for the tip...
@paulshamblin6260Ай бұрын
I find this after I bought a $200 part and took the old one off. Labor on this is a bitch. Its heavy AF and putting the Pittman arm on with the box on the truck sux. Gotta index the new box and arm .it just sux.
@FloresJonnersАй бұрын
I have a 2020 2500 turbo Diesal, do these trucks have glow plugs or spark plugs?
@wdstickleАй бұрын
Excellent video for sure. Right to the point.
@MrsBuddevilАй бұрын
Is there a way to fix leaks?
@alexshatner3907Ай бұрын
The problem is that I am exhausted all means to loosen the nut to adjust the play, even used commercial air tools, crow bars for leverage and still will not loosen the nut any ideas?
@paulshamblin6260Ай бұрын
Torch
@chefdanb83Ай бұрын
What size is that hex?
@thelonewrangler1008Ай бұрын
Im guessing if you can bottom out the adjustment and you still have the play, its time for a new one
@AlexT-md9df3 сағат бұрын
Mine is like that, that’s why I’m here 😅 adjustment is maxed and steering wheel going nuts
@thelonewrangler10083 сағат бұрын
@AlexT-md9df Try going the other way with the adjuster, some boxes, the adjustment is the opposite direction of all the rest. The box in my Jeep is from Mercedes, they only used it for a few years, and it's the opposite of the boxes that were in Jeeps for decades
@pahick542 ай бұрын
Great info. Need steadier camera work. Thx
@chriss43652 ай бұрын
I have a 97 F150 How do I know if its bad? I have had 6 alignments and the truck still pulls to the left and when you let go of the steering wheel it turns right does that mean its bad? There is also play in my steering wheel. Not sure if i can adjust mine. Other than that are no leaks or anything that wobbles or is loose.
@DavidB-rx3km14 күн бұрын
Not brakes grabbing? Are the pads and guides in the caliper free and not sticky, it's worth checking.
@chriss436514 күн бұрын
@@DavidB-rx3km the brakes are fine
@johnduncan70392 ай бұрын
Finally someone is just short and sweet
@treybadd3 ай бұрын
You need to zero out the allowed slip in the TCC settings on the transmission. It’s always allowed to slip.
@fishhunt98743 ай бұрын
That looked like a bear to figure out. Thank you for documenting this 👍🏼
@bryan5656563 ай бұрын
Now just put a small tack weld, and you’re good to go 👍🏻
@XxsteamerxX4 ай бұрын
Could you explain how you put it in service mode, when you put the camera down?
@amiller38314 ай бұрын
As you said our waste of time our screwing, well my thought on that is.....That what separates TECHNICIANs from PART replacers. Unfortunately, the industry is filled with @85% of guessers and professional part replacers. Good job, it also puts so much value of the customers dollar as well
@micjam19865 ай бұрын
My 2003 5.3 lm7 has 284k miles and still going fine.. no engine work.. even original intake manifold gaskets🤯
@joeberg98235 ай бұрын
Any idea what caused the 8 pushrod tips to get scored/galled up like that and the other 8 to be fine?
@alexzbarazky30385 ай бұрын
I made a mistake of using antiseize on my caliper bolts years ago. Some time later i was chasing a front end rattle over bumps. Couldn't find the source in the suspension. I discovered the source of the rattle going down the mountain pass. One of the bolts fell out. Luckily the caliper just rotated a bit and was grinding on the rotor. I degreased and torqued the rest of the bolts, wrapped some random bolt i found in the trunk with duct tape and drove the rest of the way home, 150 miles.
@alexzbarazky30385 ай бұрын
Great video! Thanks!
@dakotaseegers58615 ай бұрын
But WHY don’t they want coolant flow there??
@georgeparker5555 ай бұрын
Is it possible to have in and out play? I have a Jeep wrangler Jk and I can grab my steering wheel and has minimal in and out play not sure if it’s this or maybe the column
@richarddiaz82485 ай бұрын
Is it still working after the repair that was done a year ago
@lustysteve14205 ай бұрын
I put it under a heavy welding table and picked it up with a truck jack slid in ez
@johnswilley67646 ай бұрын
Liked, and subscribed. Thank you Sir!
@mikegreer90416 ай бұрын
If you got a park or a gear you don't need a park brake. I never use one
@DarrylLeaning2 ай бұрын
Wrong. One day you will find out why.
@postalaka7 ай бұрын
I used amsoil from when I bought the truck brand new. Change oil every 3k having lifter failure at 70k .
@SupercarJeepGuy8 ай бұрын
Kuddos for this. I bought the OEM cord for my '22 2500 Cummings and ran across this video for the install. Currently have the front grill removed for another task, so figured this would be the perfect time to get the cord routed the right way. Thanks again...will try to tackle this later today.
@jamesmalloy962611 ай бұрын
Pretty sure it doesn’t bleed off oil pressure… VLOM allows oil pressure into ports to unlock lifter (think 22psi)…
@paulm.643711 ай бұрын
Thanks for the di-electric grease tip. Nobody mentioned it in their videos.
@BrindanNevarezHEYBROS Жыл бұрын
Didn’t work. Any other ideas? I’m stuck
@josephward64222 ай бұрын
Use you muscles
@ericgould3418 Жыл бұрын
2016 2 dr with 80k miles on 38" tires, replaced my e-brake shoes twice and they have never really worked no matter how much i adjusted it at the rear wheels. I noticed i had the same exact loose tension on the clock spring. I did two full rotations of that hex nut and my e-brake is now holding without me having to yank it up to full lock and what felt like only 1/2-3/4 engagement. I now get 100% engagement on 1/2 the distance pulled. The e-brake now holds even when put in 1st and i try to drive. this has never been like this.. Thanks!
@flafaloon Жыл бұрын
Ratchet Straps , hammers, nothing works for me, I have to give it to a shop with a press.
@josephward64222 ай бұрын
Helps if the ambient temp is higher than 75
@abdullahkocbas2142 Жыл бұрын
Çok saçma bir sistem mi yoksa bana mı öyle geliyor.bir el freni ayarı yapmak için
@therealrealshocker7 ай бұрын
😅 I agree
@timg185 Жыл бұрын
I’m wondering if changing the lifters around 75,000 miles is a good idea.
@timg185 Жыл бұрын
I’m seeing similar issues in Rams and even Toyota’s . Fords have other issues just as catastrophic. The over head cam designs are inferior to the old tech in terms of reliability. We pay way more money and get way less quality.
@Silli999 Жыл бұрын
In plastic lifter we trust lol not me. I assure that even replacing those "genuine gm" trays twise a year wont save you from lifter roller failure. KZread has many "engine builders" made videos of how loosen trays destroy engines. Over 30 years as factory mechanic teaches basics on heat, friction, lubrication and so on. I was supriced to find mr ginger who understand this. Have fun with the wrenches and ditch that ass monkey truck giving too much troubles to your life :)
@leighfisk1344 Жыл бұрын
20% left on oil is about 8000 miles on oil change thar seems like a lot
@cammontreuil7509 Жыл бұрын
LS looks like a cobbled together old hemi, windsor with high riser heads.
@robertrusso1154 Жыл бұрын
Thank you, lubing the inside of the housing was the ticket. Went right on.
@HioSSilver1999 Жыл бұрын
My ls stuff has been pretty good so far. I do think oil has something to do with it. Castrol syntec seems to help. Even with ones that has already started ticking.
@davidleary823 Жыл бұрын
It’s purely an oil volume problem. Enclosed cam tunnels don’t get crank windage/ splash. And the thin oils and lack of pumped volume for the sake of fuel economy
@ryonkelly972 Жыл бұрын
I drive a 2003 chevy silverado with a 5.3 i only run oil that's slick and its got over 350000 miles on the original engine id leave right now and go anywhere in it now the junk that was put out after 2005 has nothing to do with the design its the parts that were used cheap junky Chinese metal that goes for all brands of vehicles
@lucascb750 Жыл бұрын
Yeap, LS cam bearings are notorious. Also, in very short supply...
@proten40 Жыл бұрын
Your cam Brg. size is wrong as if the center Brg. was the smallest the how would you get the cam into place as it would stop at the center brg. As a GM Master mechanic I have seen many engines with the AFM Manifold O ring failures that dump oil in the valley that leads to excessive cam Brg. wear that in turn causes lifter failures . If you fallow the oil flow chart for the engine you will see that a AFM manifold leak would reduce the oil supply to the #1 & 2 cam Brg. in turn will increased damage due to the timing chain pressure .
@charliehargrave7458 Жыл бұрын
Chevy quit building trucks when they got rid of the 350.
@larryw5429 Жыл бұрын
The lack of zink in oils these days would be a factor imo!
@cptbuiltk7944 Жыл бұрын
Can't have much zinc or else it'll kill catalytic convertor
@jaimeedwards1269 Жыл бұрын
@@cptbuiltk7944 WTF? If your engine is burning that much oil where the zinc kills the catalytic converter you have much bigger problems.
@jamesbasye2362 Жыл бұрын
I have an 07 silverado that has 256000 miles on it that runs like a top no issues, makes a slight tick if it sits and idles but im 90 percent sure it is a exaust manifild leak not lifter failure considering sound goes away completely when driving. Another cause of this failure could be in proper oiling any number of these things can leak or lose oil pressure which could collapse the lifters
@jaimeedwards1269 Жыл бұрын
If it ticks at idle and goes away driving it's probably a lifter issues. Exhaust manifold leaks only get louder as the rpm increases
Пікірлер
Excellent. Thanks for taking the time to share this with us!
Agree, change your oil.
You 'da man!!! Simple. Logical. NOT SCARY!!! Thx for the tip...
I find this after I bought a $200 part and took the old one off. Labor on this is a bitch. Its heavy AF and putting the Pittman arm on with the box on the truck sux. Gotta index the new box and arm .it just sux.
I have a 2020 2500 turbo Diesal, do these trucks have glow plugs or spark plugs?
Excellent video for sure. Right to the point.
Is there a way to fix leaks?
The problem is that I am exhausted all means to loosen the nut to adjust the play, even used commercial air tools, crow bars for leverage and still will not loosen the nut any ideas?
Torch
What size is that hex?
Im guessing if you can bottom out the adjustment and you still have the play, its time for a new one
Mine is like that, that’s why I’m here 😅 adjustment is maxed and steering wheel going nuts
@AlexT-md9df Try going the other way with the adjuster, some boxes, the adjustment is the opposite direction of all the rest. The box in my Jeep is from Mercedes, they only used it for a few years, and it's the opposite of the boxes that were in Jeeps for decades
Great info. Need steadier camera work. Thx
I have a 97 F150 How do I know if its bad? I have had 6 alignments and the truck still pulls to the left and when you let go of the steering wheel it turns right does that mean its bad? There is also play in my steering wheel. Not sure if i can adjust mine. Other than that are no leaks or anything that wobbles or is loose.
Not brakes grabbing? Are the pads and guides in the caliper free and not sticky, it's worth checking.
@@DavidB-rx3km the brakes are fine
Finally someone is just short and sweet
You need to zero out the allowed slip in the TCC settings on the transmission. It’s always allowed to slip.
That looked like a bear to figure out. Thank you for documenting this 👍🏼
Now just put a small tack weld, and you’re good to go 👍🏻
Could you explain how you put it in service mode, when you put the camera down?
As you said our waste of time our screwing, well my thought on that is.....That what separates TECHNICIANs from PART replacers. Unfortunately, the industry is filled with @85% of guessers and professional part replacers. Good job, it also puts so much value of the customers dollar as well
My 2003 5.3 lm7 has 284k miles and still going fine.. no engine work.. even original intake manifold gaskets🤯
Any idea what caused the 8 pushrod tips to get scored/galled up like that and the other 8 to be fine?
I made a mistake of using antiseize on my caliper bolts years ago. Some time later i was chasing a front end rattle over bumps. Couldn't find the source in the suspension. I discovered the source of the rattle going down the mountain pass. One of the bolts fell out. Luckily the caliper just rotated a bit and was grinding on the rotor. I degreased and torqued the rest of the bolts, wrapped some random bolt i found in the trunk with duct tape and drove the rest of the way home, 150 miles.
Great video! Thanks!
But WHY don’t they want coolant flow there??
Is it possible to have in and out play? I have a Jeep wrangler Jk and I can grab my steering wheel and has minimal in and out play not sure if it’s this or maybe the column
Is it still working after the repair that was done a year ago
I put it under a heavy welding table and picked it up with a truck jack slid in ez
Liked, and subscribed. Thank you Sir!
If you got a park or a gear you don't need a park brake. I never use one
Wrong. One day you will find out why.
I used amsoil from when I bought the truck brand new. Change oil every 3k having lifter failure at 70k .
Kuddos for this. I bought the OEM cord for my '22 2500 Cummings and ran across this video for the install. Currently have the front grill removed for another task, so figured this would be the perfect time to get the cord routed the right way. Thanks again...will try to tackle this later today.
Pretty sure it doesn’t bleed off oil pressure… VLOM allows oil pressure into ports to unlock lifter (think 22psi)…
Thanks for the di-electric grease tip. Nobody mentioned it in their videos.
Didn’t work. Any other ideas? I’m stuck
Use you muscles
2016 2 dr with 80k miles on 38" tires, replaced my e-brake shoes twice and they have never really worked no matter how much i adjusted it at the rear wheels. I noticed i had the same exact loose tension on the clock spring. I did two full rotations of that hex nut and my e-brake is now holding without me having to yank it up to full lock and what felt like only 1/2-3/4 engagement. I now get 100% engagement on 1/2 the distance pulled. The e-brake now holds even when put in 1st and i try to drive. this has never been like this.. Thanks!
Ratchet Straps , hammers, nothing works for me, I have to give it to a shop with a press.
Helps if the ambient temp is higher than 75
Çok saçma bir sistem mi yoksa bana mı öyle geliyor.bir el freni ayarı yapmak için
😅 I agree
I’m wondering if changing the lifters around 75,000 miles is a good idea.
I’m seeing similar issues in Rams and even Toyota’s . Fords have other issues just as catastrophic. The over head cam designs are inferior to the old tech in terms of reliability. We pay way more money and get way less quality.
In plastic lifter we trust lol not me. I assure that even replacing those "genuine gm" trays twise a year wont save you from lifter roller failure. KZread has many "engine builders" made videos of how loosen trays destroy engines. Over 30 years as factory mechanic teaches basics on heat, friction, lubrication and so on. I was supriced to find mr ginger who understand this. Have fun with the wrenches and ditch that ass monkey truck giving too much troubles to your life :)
20% left on oil is about 8000 miles on oil change thar seems like a lot
LS looks like a cobbled together old hemi, windsor with high riser heads.
Thank you, lubing the inside of the housing was the ticket. Went right on.
My ls stuff has been pretty good so far. I do think oil has something to do with it. Castrol syntec seems to help. Even with ones that has already started ticking.
It’s purely an oil volume problem. Enclosed cam tunnels don’t get crank windage/ splash. And the thin oils and lack of pumped volume for the sake of fuel economy
I drive a 2003 chevy silverado with a 5.3 i only run oil that's slick and its got over 350000 miles on the original engine id leave right now and go anywhere in it now the junk that was put out after 2005 has nothing to do with the design its the parts that were used cheap junky Chinese metal that goes for all brands of vehicles
Yeap, LS cam bearings are notorious. Also, in very short supply...
Your cam Brg. size is wrong as if the center Brg. was the smallest the how would you get the cam into place as it would stop at the center brg. As a GM Master mechanic I have seen many engines with the AFM Manifold O ring failures that dump oil in the valley that leads to excessive cam Brg. wear that in turn causes lifter failures . If you fallow the oil flow chart for the engine you will see that a AFM manifold leak would reduce the oil supply to the #1 & 2 cam Brg. in turn will increased damage due to the timing chain pressure .
Chevy quit building trucks when they got rid of the 350.
The lack of zink in oils these days would be a factor imo!
Can't have much zinc or else it'll kill catalytic convertor
@@cptbuiltk7944 WTF? If your engine is burning that much oil where the zinc kills the catalytic converter you have much bigger problems.
I have an 07 silverado that has 256000 miles on it that runs like a top no issues, makes a slight tick if it sits and idles but im 90 percent sure it is a exaust manifild leak not lifter failure considering sound goes away completely when driving. Another cause of this failure could be in proper oiling any number of these things can leak or lose oil pressure which could collapse the lifters
If it ticks at idle and goes away driving it's probably a lifter issues. Exhaust manifold leaks only get louder as the rpm increases