Here is where you can experience many different topics of content, though it's usually music or 3D printing related. I am a guitarist, drummer, and singer. On top of that I have many different hobbies but the main one is 3D printing to try to improve, innovate, or create in all areas of my life.
Пікірлер
That is a RAT circuit
yup
It is thinking of desoldering that chip and put on F4 chip 🥲
I do not know what you are talking about.
I try this todo for the bambu lab A1 but it is not working. Probably not that line for me then?
There are two options I can think of but I don't own an A1 so I can't be for sure. The first one is if you are sending the print over wifi, I don't know if the A1 even supports this, but I made an update and short about this. For some reason (unless there was an update that I haven't noticed yet) bambu studio seems to bypass the altered gcode when sending the print over network. The other is that like you said it may be a different line and / or your gcode may be structured differently. But also keep in mind that apparently, at least for the P1 printers, there are multiple lines of extrusion that look like our same one, just in different places, presumably for different functions. So you can try to troubleshoot yourself and I would check your code again and see if you are in the right spot and if you do a print I would try to see what's acting differently in the pre print process. I would compare and do two prints with default and your altered gcode, film it with your phone if you can so you can review and re check the processes so you don't have to do the process over again. And if nothing is different, again the network thing, but also make sure you are on the start gcode. But then again I don't know why there would be any similar lines on the end code, but it's still a suggestion just to be sure. The last thing I can suggest is just going to support and asking. That's how I got this solution. You just have to be very specific and descriptive of what you want. When I was first trying to ask, it took them a little while to understand and even get me the right code. They had a mix up with that in the beginning. I hope something in here helps.
also a screen update like mrsicoc or marlin professional
cock-a-doodle-OOOOOO
my favorite album of all time, from start to finish
Isn't that hippopotamus fat
ngl, I have only listened to the full album once. When I saw your comment I was so confused and had to do research.
Hey dude, I had the very same issues as you did. I tried to use it with my acoustic live rig, but it kept on giving me a 'spluttering droid' affect in the background
Thanks a lot for this excellent video! My automatic bed leveling was fine at first but it kept getting worse. The bed test print is really nice, especially with your tips it is a really nice step by step guide. Took 3 attempts from terrible to pretty good.
That's great to hear! For a little while people were telling me that leveling should be easier than my first video, but that was because I couldn't update to 1.0.6 firmware for the longest time. I'm not sure of all the "improvements" the firmware update brought, but the live adjustment of the manual leveling was certainly a big win.
I really like how complete this video is, starting with the auto leveling and going from there. My Ender came with 1.0.6 from the factory btw.
@@StefanNicodem Thank you. I was an early adopter, which is probably one of the main reasons my videos have gotten semi popular and why my printer is so problematic.
looks like we've come full circle and probably need to mod back manual leveling 🤣 not saying leveling meshes don't work, but they work better with **some** manual input I been thinking about a v3 ke because another problem i've heard about is the nebula kit is hard to get working on the v3 se
Yeah, what I've heard is that it can get connected but you loose a bunch of extra, now essential functionality. Like being able to manually input / adjust the level data. I talked about it in my latest 3nder 3 v3 video, but some people convert the screws back to knob adjustments like the original printers too.
THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!!! I don’t use multiple colors and I had a issue that I printed a thin cylinder, like a watch pin and my purge was more than double of the pin. Glad I decided to try this.
I have klipper running on my SE, and I will never ever go back. You need a raspberry pi because you need a computer running linux in order to communicate with the machine running Klipper. Klipper actually runs as a firmware on the machine, but it also needs to be running on the computer communicating with it, hence the need for a raspberry. I f you need something cheaper, you can use an Orange Pi zero 3 since it's way cheaper and it has wifi. BootUse on youtube (and github) has a rough tutorial on how to get it running on the SE.
EVERY IMPORTANT screw on mine needed to be tightened when I got mine
Is that a TC1 multi function tester?
@@motionsick indeed, or at least something like it since there's a bunch of different random brands making them.
great....do you know how to remove the front and back purge lines before a print?
I believe the rear one is a calibration and doesn't use a whole lot, but I'm not fully for sure because I don't think the P1P either has it or takes full use of it. And the front one is similar. The code is probably more extensive on the more expensive machines, but it's a calibration test on the expensive ones and possibly still has some functionality on the more affordable bambu lab systems, but I'm not fully sure. I would leave those ones alone just in case either way. Though some other people have also commented that there are other lines of the same code later in the start code, and that is where I assume you can change the length and amount of the front pre print line if you really want to.
This stops both the front and rear purge line?
No, it only stops the purge in the shoot bucket. I believe the rear one is a calibration and doesn't use a whole lot, but I'm not fully for sure because I don't think the P1P either has it or takes full use of it. And the front one is similar. The code is probably more extensive on the more expensive machines, but it's a calibration test on the expensive ones and possibly still has some functionality on the more affordable bambu lab systems, but I'm not fully sure. I would leave those ones alone just in case either way. Though some other people have also commented that there are other lines of the same code later in the start code, and that is where I assume you can change the length and amount of the front pre print line if you really want to.
Damn I remember when this song would set me off to breakdance 😂 LP was on a different level. RIP Chester Bennington🙏
Thx!
i always run auto bed level and then adjust the z offset down to get a good bead.
It's been a while now, but I think that I could get a decent print in the middle area doing that, but overall there would be different spots still that didn't work right. I bought this printer for making guitar picks and when doing batch prints, it messes up big time. It seemed like big different results over a small area. I'm on vacation now but plan to sit down with it again and really try to dial it in again and see how it can perform, possibly for a final review of the printer.
this was actually very helpful. thank you
Yeah, I only found some broken tutorials on reddit and got this solution directly from Bambu support. So, I figured it was a great subject to pounce on.
NICE ONE! Easy to understand, easy to follow, great Backround music! SO deserved a like and Sub!!!
What about the battery? Does it drain while connected and not being used? I read it’s a true bypass
I'm on vacation at the moment, so I can't try it. I would assume they have the input as a ground connection; so when the input cable is not inserted, the circuit is not complete and cannot be powered, saving on battery life as long as you take advantage of that feature. Though the battery may still drain a bit naturally but I'm not for sure. I'm also trying to move to rechargeable 9Vs. As for the true bypass, it could be, but I doubt it. Since it uses the auto on and off on movement, (with no actual switch) I would assume it would have to be a powered component switching circuit. I guess it could still be true bypass, but I think it would still have to run through some components, so the bypass can still be basically clear, but not "true" bypass. I think it could still in the bypassed in the bypassed state but I don't know if the basic testing method would work for testing if a pedal is true bypass. That is plugging the guitar to the pedal input and the pedal to your amp or recording device and try turning it on and off without power connected. Typically if it's true bypass you can get your clean signal through on the bypass and nothing on the "on" state due to it being unpowered. But usually this only works on pedals with mechanical switches like a MXR, JHS, or many other affordable Amazon pedals. Like I said, I think this has to use a component (like transistor or IC) as the switching mechanism to make it work and that has to be powered either way to function. I hope this info helps. Let me know if you find anything out or if you have any more questions.
@@Bowsmin12thanks for the info. I bought the hellbabe anyway ($15 in a pawnshop I only had to adjust the IR led inside ) And I had the question because I plan to leave it connected in the pedalboard at the church. I now have an Italian Proel Wah which is really good. It only uses the battery when I turn on the switch. Like the ones you mentioned earlier. So it’s a true bypass But it’s been 15 years or so with me and it’s starting to fall apart 😢 I got used to how it works but the hellbabe has by far many more features and accommodations for the dynamics of my foot. Thanks mate
@@jonathanotrujillo Yeah, something I didn't know about then, was that the main big silver knob is actually switching to different "voices" of wahs. I forgot which video I watched that talked about this, but he was trying to say what he suspected the closes comparisons were. But I don't know how accurate he is. Something I never thought about was that some wah makers try to achieve different vowel sounds with the wah tone. What really illuminated this to me is the Boss Dynamic Wah pedal. It's a touch sensitive wah, so it reacts to how hard you are playing. But it also has to knobs for what the starting and ending vowels should be. (after watching some more videos for a little now it 's for a specific mode, but still cool) A very cool feature and I want to try to get one soon. I just looked it up again AND it can be used as a normal wah with an expression or / and it can be an auto sweeping wah. So cool and such versatility. They somewhat regularly show up on used sites for 60 bucks plus some shipping.
What's your normal z offset
It's been a while since I've used the printer at all, so I don't remember. But it also doesn't really help to know each others offset, because it's usually different for everyone due to the actual form of the bed. Plus I remember it having a wide tolerance, (at lease in terms of 3D printing) so there isn't a true answer of how much one person will have to offset compared to the next.
Great video! I have watched several on a basic room setup to practice using iems. This one is simple and step by step, for those of us that aren’t savvy with pro audio. Much appreciated! 👍🏻
Glad to hear that it helped!
It actually purges twice, there is another E50 purge right after the one you modified. By the way, you can "select all" the gcode then paste it in to a text editor to find and make changes. Then just paste it back in to Bambu Studio/OrcaSlicer.
I'm not for sure, but I believe that is probably for the line extrusion on the bottom of the build plate. I don't think this printer has it, but it may be part of a flow test. So just in case, I personally would leave it alone.
Would this be good if I'm using only one color
Absolutely. I found a million tutorials about reducing purge with the AMS, but none about the basic pre purge. That is what my video is for is for when you're using mostly the same material and don't need the excessive purge in between prints. Just keep in mine right now there is a bug in the network features where it bypasses the gcode for some reason. Bambu labs says they are now aware of this issue and working on it. So if you're super concerned you will have to use the SD card transfer if you don't already.
i ran the gcode nozzle scratched some areas like deep scratches what should i do? so not only a bed leveling now ive a bad plate too
did you run the auto leveling before the gcode? Or have the pre print calibration? I'm not sure why the gcode would just dig into the bed like that. If you have already ran one of the calibrations, I would suggest upping the z offset significantly then home the printer and check it visually first. You just want it to not be too close to the bed still. If you want to actually set the z offset manually, you can attempt the classic paper method. I tried looking up some videos, but the most popular ones wither drone on in the beginning or seem to be relying on the auto level being good too. So if you don't know what I'm talking about I recommend researching it first. In terms of the bed, I don't know of there are actually ways to repair them. Even if you "repaired" the gouge, you would loose the texturing in the section unless you add it again yourself one way or another. So you may have to get a new one or you can try messaging Creality support and see if they would send a new one since the file was provided by them, I was just the deliverer because they were stinky and didn't make it public for some reason. Though since you got if from me they may try to fight you or just claim user negligence or something like that. The good news about buying a new bed is that you can get a better quality one, often not much more expensive than a straight Creality replacement. You can also explore PEI or PEO or something like that. I think they give them different names for different patterns. But there are these cool other plates you can get that have a side that is mostly flat with a cool pattern for your first layer and a textured side for tougher or certain material prints. Just be warned the the PEI and PEO don't work well with all materials. I don't remember exactly, but I think when you use PETG and possibly some other types of materials, it sticks too well and often if you get the print off the bed, some of the bed comes with it. I may be wrong but I thought it was worth asking. If you use PLA all the time or just for now then it should work great. It should also hopefully tell you in the product description. Affiliate Link - Textured and crystal style bed - amzn.to/3VP0v3a This listing has different styles and sizes. I bought something like this for my P1P and it works better than the name brand. You will have to take out the alignment screws on the back of printer's bed chassis probably. Also if you do go for one on this listing, double check the size of the bed, and you shouldn't need a magnet plate because there's one on the printer already. The rainbow ones somehow imprint that effect onto the first layer as well, which you may be able to use creatively, though on this listing it looks like there isn't one of the rainbow ones with the textured other side. I would recommend playing it safe and getting one with at least one side of the gold style textured surface. Though I think you could get one with that on both sides as well and I think this type of surface works with all materials. But again do some research and check my facts because I may be miss remembering. I know this was long but I hope it helps.
@@Bowsmin12 thank you will try, I might've ruined the z while trying the creality service tutorial where they adjust with the glue sticks underneath, their tutorials are total crap or I might be just unlucky. My printer actually worked too well for the first few days then suddenly my prints started to not stick on the bed, nozzle started to stick on the extruded models on mid way etc. I ordered a pei sheet waiting for it arrive to try all the steps again in before I throw the machine off
@@akalpozkidirir2059 Their tutorials aren't the best but they can usually get the idea across from what I've seen. Though I have to mute the audio to be able to focus on the text since there's no dang voice over or anything like that. My guess for why the prints stopped sticking is that maybe the auto leveling was still a bit too close (that seems to be common with the stock bed) and just wore down the bed? That's only an educated guess but many people recommend changing to a different, higher quality bed anyway. Kind of like what I sent before. But some people also say you need to find the tolerance for the Z offset inaccuracy and try to manually compensate for it, usually by raising it a small bit. Some people say that you shouldn't follow the creality tutorial about the glue stick method and say you should try to print these : www.printables.com/model/853057-x-axis-leveling-blocks-guide-for-ender-3-v3-se-ke I don't know how much it really matters as long as your bed looks level by eyeballing it. If it's visually off, you may need to fix that. but figured I would mention it. It's probably something you can do after you get your printer printing at least at an okay quality if you really want to, especially if you don't have any other 3D printers.
@@Bowsmin12 do you have a discord or somewhere I can reach you out I really need help I been pulling my hairs since then I can't fix it properly :(
@@akalpozkidirir2059 My discord is the same username, just without the music. But I will warn you, I am no expert and my machine doesn't currently even work properly either lol. But I haven't taken the time to sit down with mine and manually level it again since trying some other fixes.
Well you have given the best presentation of using Bambu Studio I have ever seen by anyone as you have taken the time to zoom into the curser position on every move. I use an iPad a lot of the time so it’s hard to see where the curser is going especially when the screen is dark or the presenter is talking and moving so fast you can’t keep up. A very WELL DONE to you. Info was good as well.
Thank you and glad it helped. When editing I have to look at a smaller version of the video too, and I think it might be a lower resolution on the preview as well to preserve computer resources. So it can help put things in perspective for making things visible on the big and little screen.
Thanks for all the work you've done on this! I'm currently having the same issues with my Ender 3V3SE. It was printing very well for months with the stock bed plate, but it was getting a bit used. So, I changed the bed plate to a new one since the stock plate. I'll try your suggestions and see if I can get improved levelling/Z-offset.
What kind of replacement bed did you get? Is it gritty textured like the original, or it mostly or completely smooth?
@@Bowsmin12 Creality Official PEI Sheet 235x235mm Flexible Removable Spring Steel Plate Magnetic Sticker Heated Bed Kit Replacement Accessory for Ender 3 S1/Ender 3/Ender 3 V2/Ender 3 Pro/Ender 5 Hot Bed Surface
It is gold frosted/textured with magnetic sticker bottom
@@dennishumphrey4559 Okay, I found a listing on amazon exactly matching your comment. It looks smooth, but I assume its kind of a tacky surface maybe? I haven't used one exactly like this before as far as I know. So like stated in the video, it seems the printer may rely too heavily on the grit of the original textured bed. Because I tried a few different designs of beds that were more smooth, only very minor texturing, and it couldn't print on just about any of them. I returned the others thinking they were somehow defective, but I tried my G10 from my Ender 3 V2 and it worked better, but still not great. Trying to improve the printer and make it actually work right, it functions worse with the G10 lately. So I would recommend going with a bed that has at least one side that is grittily textured and see if that will work for you. You also don't necessarily have to go with an official product. The ender 3 3rd party market is kind of vast and most of the well rated stuff should hopefully work for you and the E3V3SE as well. Just make sure it's the right size. But I also won't make any grantees because of how much of a pain the printer can be.
@@Bowsmin12 Official Creality Ender-3 V3 SE Build Plate 235x235 Original Textured PEI Sheet Magnetic Flexible Spring Steel Build Plate for Ender-3/Ender-3 V2/Ender-3 V3 KE/Ender-3 V3 SE/K1/K1C
IMPORTANT UPDATE 6/17/24 - It appears that for some reason Bambu Studio (bambu slicer) bypasses the changed gcode when sending the print using network features. At least this is the situation on my machine and has been confirmed as an issue by bambu lab support. I only used SD card transfers at the time so I was unaware of this problem. My guess is the their cloud or something is removing the "custom" gcode to prevent malicious activity or something like that. Bambu Studio does similar things when importing files with changed gcodes. Let me know if you have experienced this too or if yours works find for some reason.
Thanks dude! Have a nice day!
You're welcome, and you too.
This vid is absolutely amazing... most thorough explanation I've ever seen. I just want to make sure I completely understand what you're talking about... a square prints but the nozzle is too close to the print so it comes out all ribbed... you need to raise the point... so a -.16 would become a -.15? Or do I have that backwards...
Thank you, and you have it correct. (at least I'm 99% sure, it's been a while.) I know it gets confusing, especially if you are working with both positive and negative values.
THANK YOU for this tutorial, updating the firmware and manually leveling the bed with a piece of paper is exponentially better than that shitass auto bed leveling that managed to be so skewed the top right corner didn't even TRY to adhere to the bed i still want to physically adjust the bed level w/ washers on the bolts holding the bed, but i'm too scared that i'll fuck up my printer and manual leveling does the job exceptionally well anyway
Yeah. I planned to make a video on this subject, but I went on the E3V3SE/KE subreddit and sked if people wanted the OPTION to have a finer leveling mesh with more data points. I did not get a single positive opinion, at least not in the comments. The consensus was that it would be too much work to manually level all the points, the mesh is fine the way it is now, and other people's solution was to convert the printer to the old form of manual bed leveling mixed with the auto leveling. So they're changing the screws, getting longer ones and putting knobs on the bottom like every ender before this one. I don't know. This frustrated me. I was hoping that post would be positive reinforcement to get creality to implement the feature as an option for the people that want it, but the community has to defend the company and make physical, extra cost changes that once again ruin the first selling point of the printer; worry free auto bed leveling. It just grinds my gears, you know?
Dont know if you are going to see this, but consider start doing 3D printing as your main topic on this channel, you helped me a lot! Kudos from Brazil
That's good to hear that I'm helping. The 3D printing content has cause most of the small channel success I've had over the past months to year. But unfortunately other than this troubleshooting journey, I don't have a whole lot of knowledge to pass on to people or really innovate things. I got lucky with my bambu lab P1P purge video. I just wanted to save on filament, so I went to the customer support and they told me how. I then just relayed that in a video because it seemed like the only other place I had seen anything about it was on a single reddit post and it was kind of hard to understand and in broken up bits of information. I'm not quite sure how to grow a 3D printing channel if you're not making new discoveries. On top of that, I like 3D printing and what it can do for me, but I do find it insanely frustrating a lot of the time. It's a great tool when it works, but sometimes all the components and programs around 3d printing want to fight me and I don't always have the resources to fix them outright. At least not right now. I would love to work with companies to make videos with them but I'm too small typically for them to be statistically impressed. I'm really interested in the Elegoo Neptune printers but I just can't afford much of anything let alone be able to afford more printers for reviews and projects. That's enough rambling from me. Thank you for reading and your support. If you would like to help, I don't know if it would, but you could try recommending my channel to companies and see if they would reach out on their own. If you have some other people do it too, it may be more likely to succeed. It's a small chance but it might work.
good video was looking for matlab videos hahah for ideas ,and youtube recoemnded me this , hhaha i have a p1s and this is helpfull .. thank you.
That is a bit of a weird place for me to be recommended from. I guess KZread still managed to do it's job right though since you liked the video lol.
@@Bowsmin12 I will coment the line of code out , hope that sops the poop for single color . have the ams but dont know what to print in color lol have the basi color s that came with the machine. do you have a recomendation for the settings to print with peteg . my prints dont stick.
@@JAYTHEGREAT355 Well I don't print with PETG very often. But I would say try raising the bed temp a bit. I don't remember the exact amount but I think 70 helps. That will be in the filament settings. 80 is where the magnets start to loose magnetism so be carful of that. I think bambu labs printers are supposed to be able to hand high temps but I don't know how. - Something I forget a lot is that there are filament profiles, so I would start with the generic PETG setting unless there's a setting for the brand you're using. - If I got prints to stick, I often needed something to help the warping on corners. (but I think that was on the Ender 3 V2) I use hairspray but there are a handful of other options like glue sticks or special polymer liquids. - Another thing that could possibly help is slowing the prints speeds a bit. I don't know for sure that this would help but sometimes it helps the printer to slowly and firmly lay it out. And sometimes the speed causes the plastic to catch on the nozzle one way or another. - The only other thing is this knock off replacement bed I got. ( amzn.to/3Rn0fFN ) I like smoother surfaces for bottom layers AND it seems to somehow adhere better than the stock bed. Though the flat side on this bed may not work with PETG. The petg may overly stick and damage the bed but I don't remember exactly, you would have to check the listing. Still, the textured gold side may work better than the stock textured bed, but I'm not 100% on that. The link provided is an affiliate link, it doesn't cost you anything extra but helps me a bit. They also have other cool textured beds. Believe the rainbow ones somehow impart that light refraction or whatever it's called onto the part printed surface. If you pick something else after using the link, it still helps me. I hope this all helps you figure out your adhesion issues. Hairspray usually helps me 99% of the time when I need it but different brands and types also have different results.
Haveing all the same issues man. Still in my 14 day period trying to get a refund
Isso é muito bom
Obrigado, tenho mais no mesmo formato chegando
Damn, straight to the point. GG my man, thank you for helping me for my future 3D adventures!
You're welcome. I just wish I was able to make videos like this for my Ender 3 V3 SE. It's been more of a journey than a solution, and I think the viewers appreciate it even less than I do, lol.
@@Bowsmin12 Don’t give up on yourself
Nice video thank you
I have this printer & i concur, prints (especially smaller ones) stick like a MF. I get very nice first layers but its a battle getting the prints off pretty much every time. My bed levelling readings seem very consistent though so my only issue is the super sticky bed.
I had a spare Raspberry Pi available so I went the Klipper route. I also use MRISCOC firmware on my V2s, and got spoiled by the 9x9 mesh. I did the same with Klipper by changing one line in the printer.cfg file.
just know you're not alone brother, i've been troubleshooting constantly for the last 3 days and lost traction and nearly gave up but you've got me inspired again!, i don't care what it takes i'll get this "thing" working. I'm still miffed that an auto bed is an "auto" Bed, next step for me is going down the klipper rabbit hole
Yeah, as far as I can tell the only solution left is different firmware. Creality seems to really suck at making auto leveling firmware. It didn't work when I installed a BL touch on the V2, it still doesn't work with a CR touch on the V3. Otherwise I don't really know what going on physically to make this happen at this point.
@@Bowsmin12 the software in general is just ass to be honest, it's barely functions and just seeing the improvements people are getting in speeds let alone just raw compute power with just a Rpi Zero is amazing. well after another 8? i think hours fucking around i found a tricky way to level in the z offset, if you do a cold start and send a print request from cura it puts the nozzle right on the bed, from there a quick and dirty paper show and i got mine dialed in for now atleast..
I have the same printer I went through a rough ride trying to fix the z-axis tilt. It's solved but they gave the tilt on the axis and also on the bed. If I had known that before I would have never touched it.
You changed so many factory default adjustments at once it’s better to get a replacement than trying to fix it. Always fix one problem at once or else it will get so complicated even the manufacturer can’t predict.
The way I see it, I don't know if you could call what I changed really "adjustments". At least they probably didn't pay much attention to these issues at the factory. Especially that the printer could technically print out of the box, at least when paired with their textured bed. but that was a whole other issue with over adhesion, etc. but is not the case now that I switched to my G10 bed. The things I changed, logically should have been the way they are now from the factory. Except for the firmware update because of when I purchased the machine. Now I can understand what you mean. The machine does seem to function worse, even though logically what I did should have improved it. I don't know if that comes down to the tilt of the bed, though I did try to fix that with some printed spacers. I don't know what calibrations they do at the factory, if any, but it didn't really work right from the factory. So I don't put too much credit in what I did being the main cause of the machine still not working right. The way I also see it was that the only change that wasn't necessary was the firmware. I made three main changes and one of them didn't really seem to make a difference. But the two that did work, work closely together to fix an issue in a small contained area. If I made changes all over the machine, yes, the change tolerance would stack up much more considerably. But like stated before it was only in the head, to fix one main issue. So I don't think the change of tolerance and the stacking is really the issue in this case. So currently, is there a way to get the printer to work properly? Maybe, but I don't know it. My unprofessional opinion and guess is that it's something to do with the firmware and the primary functions. I also still think they should allow us to make a finer probe mech no matter what happens in the future or what's wrong with my or any other of the printers. Sorry for having this be so long. I just have been fighting with this for a very long time, and have been trying to do my due diligence. But this whole situation is just starting to seem ridiculous to me. So I have strong opinions about this and am not inexperienced when it comes to working with this and other machines. The amount of work I've had to do on printers is the main reason I hate 3D printing. Luckily I bought a P1P so I can actually fuel creativity rather than constantly struggle to get it off the ground. Thank you for reading, especially if you made it through the whole thing.
It’s nice you have a backup printer. It’s hard to explain even if u used a different spacer material it’s might expand or contract differently than the stock material they’ve used. The values are so small in microns but that throw off so many settings. The belt tension, Z axis sync, thermal expansion, v slot roller tension, default tolerance to adjust for z offset, x n y belt tension difference lot more. The stock firmware is known to have z offset problem. But the .06 claimed to fixed it. Even in version .04 I had to lower the nozzle by 0.01 (by their official scale which they used in stock firmware) to print reasonable. Then I tried 0.02 it was good. If u understand about sensors u also should be prepared for their offset values. It’s hard to make the sensor work so precisely every time. I still use the tilted cr touch. But as longs as it is consistent then I give it the right value so that it can follow. The things I saw working with the budget models is that even if it comes with a specific misalignment if u can replicate that same mis alignment it will work may be the QC people made it that way.
The sooner you claim for replacement the possibility is higher. U can spend ur time on fixing it but I feel it’s better you have fun with your life n let them fix the problem which they created.
The 1st print I tried n lost hope in Creality slicing software. I moved completely to cura with this printer. U can try that And It’s hard to level the bed with mesh points. If u can calibrate screw adjust n tram the bed first( u might need klipper for that) then it will be easy to do a good mesh. And don’t trust auto z offset. After it’s calibrated. U try printing single layer. U can estimate the the z offset by seeing n feeling the under side of the first layer. If U can get that right. It should work n u dont have to depend one that sensor. U can have ur specific offset value. And use it every time after the it calibrates auto z offset. For bed leveling issues it should work.
@@cedricsilvinoz Yeah, it's always hard for me with this printer. I know it has so much potential but at the same time it's first or second selling bullet point is worry free auto leveling, and for some reason it fails miserably in my case. I don't know why it has such a hard time with my G10 bed. I only have the one and I used the bed originally on my ender 3 V2 and it worked flawlessly 99% of the time. I installed auto leveling on that printer, but creality's firmware didn't work for that one either so I had to install third party firmware. I've asked support why they don't learn from the previous community made firmwares and they always doge the question, try to direct me to some other topic and keep making their sub par stuff. It's just so frustrating when it seems like they're trying to reinvent stuff that's already worked really well before, but they refuse to learn from anything or really take suggestions. I'm not very active in the community but it seems like they even ignore higher profile people making simple or logical suggestions the few times I saw them. I can't remember examples unfortunately. The bottom line is that I don't expect perfection from the machine, but I was hoping to at least improve it and get it to do what it advertises, or close to it.
Where do you sleep considering your bed? ;P Tip from years of performing with my band that I learned early: Don't take time to excuse or explain a screw up or make pained faces etc... (IE: starting this with excusing/apologizing for jump cuts). Most people won't notice or care too much compared to after you draw attention to feck ups.
It's hard to tell from this angle but the other half is clear other than blankets and stuff. And yeah, I don't remember why I was worried about mentioning the video cuts. I don't know if it was to address why I would be looking down most of the time and I combined them for some reason.
Heres the mod I did to cure the sweep. Hope it helps... kzread.info/dash/bejne/fH1q05JrlpSzo6Q.htmlsi=JG7fh8AEN6mxbj2g
Found your vid Jo: its a life saver!
The steel and the PEI surface will separate if it sticks and you yank it off. I use a safety razor to come underneath it.
Can you clarify what is sticking to what in this suggestion? Is the plate sticking to the bed area or is a print sticking to the plate?
On the Creality bed level gcode, I noticed it does not do the M410 S1. So the print doesn't use the mesh. If we're adjusting the mesh to work better, shouldn't the gcode use the mesh? Thanks for posting the video, been searching for adjusting the autolevel for months on the 3v3SE and getting all the other non 3v3SE videos.
I think some other people have mentioned this, but as far as I can tell it still uses the leveling data one way or another. My guess is that the get mech command should be in the start gcode of the slicer. So It possibly gets added that way. When I did the leveling test, the adjustments slowly made a difference which means it has to work somehow.
I don't know if the other comment was removed but there is a separate menu. I made another leveling video recently because I was finally able to update the firmware to 1.0.6. I don't remember if I put the menu navigation in this video, but if I didn't, the 1.0.6 video has it and it should be the same even if you're still using 1.0.4.
@@Bowsmin12 Yea, sorry, I remembered seeing it, and found it as soon as I posted, so I then deleted it. The question was: Is there a way to edit level data without rerunning autoleveling. The answer is yes, it's under Control Menu then Edit Level Data.
@@no_such_reality4552 I figured it was something like that, but I wanted to message back just in case.
I have a nebula pad, cant edit
I think I've heard about that issue before. Unfortunately the few times I've heard of the nebula pad, they weren't good things.
I just got one off fb market n I have no idea how to download the software to my mac it says it won’t download therefore I’m using cura that doesn’t have the model I have and is only using one intruder instead of both of them / making it so much longer than it needs to be
It's been a while since I had this printer, but I looked up the flashforge slicer and I guess it's called flash print 5. Have you tried this software? I don't remember / know if it supports the two extruders. Though it should of course. It has downloads for Windows, Mac, and linux. Here is the link to the download page - www.flashforge.com/download-center/63 Sorry if you've already tried this software and I said all this. I know that this whole thing can be frustrating. it looks like there's also now an alternate software on the Flashforge site called something like flash-orca, which might give you more control to perfect the printer and it's process.