I had a PC-4 back in high school, including the memory expansion and thermal printer. It's amazing to see one now, and to see how far we've come! Thanks for the video.
@timburns23743 күн бұрын
Think of the S key a feature not a bug! I feel your pain as I recently re-furbed my dad's old PB-100
@wallfris52856 күн бұрын
Thanks for another inspiring video. I'm always amazed by your tenacity in tackling these broken devices.
@ohioterran73746 күн бұрын
Great job getting 4 out of 5 working! Great video and I love that you explain your process! Love it!
@Fezzler616 күн бұрын
Who's on first? CPU #2! More amazing work!
@wimwiddershins6 күн бұрын
Hmm, that looks like ancient Yutja. It appears to be a warning. "Collecting retro computer tech' is fraught with disaster!"
@dugmeister658 күн бұрын
Great to see that you managed to get 4 out of 5 working…
@HeyBirt8 күн бұрын
That 5th one still bugs me though. I would love to find out what is wrong with it but now it is missing too many parts. Oh well, it gave its life for a good cause.
@user-rx6ld1sq2h8 күн бұрын
Hi, Birt! Would you, please, clarify about GE player? After changing the belts it still didn't make any sound at all? So the problem was not in belts, right? And you didn't continue to repair it further? The point is that I've got the same player, and it have a problem with the sound (distorted and slowed down), but the belts are intact, so I think what is the problem and should I change the belts or look for another problem...
@HeyBirt7 күн бұрын
I bought a replacement for the bad amplifier chip but have not yet gotten back to it. Your belts will need to be replaced. The original belts are loose which causes slipping and the distorted sound.
@thedddemon8 күн бұрын
Awesome! What was the digitisation process and pipeline of audio back in 1983 though?
@HeyBirt7 күн бұрын
Mozer had his own system which was unlike any other. I think I gave the patent link in the video description. I did not spend a lot of time trying to decipher it. Other than that, it was your basic audio filtering (analog no doubt) and A2D conversion.
@Alex-jb5tb19 күн бұрын
Great video.
@lovemadeinjapan22 күн бұрын
I've a exact same controller/size VFD tube with 64x240 pixels. Would that work? Would be totally awesome!
@lovemadeinjapan22 күн бұрын
Thanks, a bit too much for now, so it is in Save for later for a re-watch. I have to say I go for sunbrite nowadays, as it is very easy to do, and almost as succesful as previous messing with chemicals.
@lovemadeinjapan22 күн бұрын
Thanks for explaining the weird chroma output, it is very hot by default. Too bad CRT's with a proper size for the C64 don't do S-video, it was only introduced on larger models (20 inch+) from the nineties. For flat TV's I find it of not much use, as most do a pretty good job in removing noise and artefacts from the RF signal. The best way to use a C64 remains investing in a 1084 monitor. Especially if you have a C128 as well, as it decodes RGBi as well.
@RonLauzon24 күн бұрын
So I'm trying to understand the concept of the cassette/printer dock for the PC-2 "battery needed to regulate the rest of the voltage". I have someone else telling me the same thing, but then I have other people telling me differently. I tested trying to power the cassette/printer dock using a 2A power supply at 6V - I get a "CHECK 8" and the printer won't self-test. Same when I set the power supply for 7.5V. It only works when I set the power supply for 9V. Note that I had long ago removed the battery from my cassette/printer dock.
@HeyBirt24 күн бұрын
The DC input jack is designed to slowly charge the battery, not power the whole unit in operation. There is a couple of diodes and a current limiting resistor in series so you can never get enough current to run the unit at the proper voltage. The current limiting resistor is NOT designed to pass the current to required to run the unit. The old power adapters were unregulated, i.e. a transformer, rectifier and capacitor. There is no voltage regulator. If the adapter is rated for 6V, 600ma then the output voltage will be about 6V when the load is 600ma. If loads less than 600ma the voltage will be higher. When the battery is in the circuit it presents a load to the power supply, dropping the voltage to the proper level. I do build battery packs for the CE-150. I did a whole video about this: kzread.info/dash/bejne/mGaHysyEadjXabw.html
@RonLauzon22 күн бұрын
@@HeyBirt I'm interested in a battery pack.
@TheHoss414524 күн бұрын
That soldering iron lol....
@HeyBirt24 күн бұрын
??
@lazarian442826 күн бұрын
I have a Tandy PC3 that's in great condition. It's probably not possible to expand the ram, but I want to make a little breakout board for the 11 pin connector so I could use a microcassette to load and save programs, or RS232. The thought of opening up the internals is frightening. I'm happy the LCD is pristine.
@HeyBirt26 күн бұрын
The PC-3 needs additional circuitry to load/save using the expansion port. It does not have a (RS232) serial port built in. There is a guy in Japan making a USB interface that acts like the cassette interface.
@lazarian442826 күн бұрын
@@HeyBirt Thanks for the info and I will certainly look into that! :)
@mariorossi163326 күн бұрын
Hi! I follow with great interest all your videos and your repair work that I find really awesome. I have a question about sharp pc 1600 that I wish to own (I have an overclocked pc-1500a) but prices of this units are prohibitive. I've noticed that a majority of pc-1600s on sale do not turn on with the very same symptoms of having the LCD display on and do not respond to the unit reset, do you know anything about this, apparently, common fault? thanks
@HeyBirt26 күн бұрын
I have found it can be difficult to get a PC-1600 to reset after putting batteries in it. There is some combination like pressing ON button while depressing rest on the back that will bring it back to life many times. (May not be the exact combo of buttons but something like it.)
@scottjoyce846526 күн бұрын
Great video as usual...What type of solder sucker is that? Sounds like it has some proper ooomph!
@HeyBirt26 күн бұрын
It is an old Pace MBT rework station. Got it about 10 years ago from eBay only slightly used. It is probably 20+ years old at this point but Pace still supports it as the military bought scads of them.
@AiOinc129 күн бұрын
These Okimate printers have a removable interface board which allows them to also work with the Apple II and IBM PC.
@sandyscott4215Ай бұрын
Is there a way to purcase another Solis Master 5000 coffee maker? HELP PLEASE
@hallorantАй бұрын
Cool video, I never opened that keyboard. I did this process on the other Model 2 because no keys worked on that keyboard 🙂
@duroxkiloАй бұрын
excellent work.. for whoever needs it, on the Realistic Minisette-9 the 6V DC plug needs to have the positive on the outside ring.
@teebeeonlineАй бұрын
oh thanks for sharing. I landed in this channel coz I got FX-840P in my online local shop for just 17 usd.
@atv22314Ай бұрын
Incredible adventure. Yay for HC-80/PX-8
@iz8dwfАй бұрын
very good job!
@HeyBirtАй бұрын
It is an interesting machine. Very overcomplicated for what it is though.
@alerey4363Ай бұрын
Hi Jeff.About the CASIO FX-502P that was my first calculator (my dad passed it to me when I was 12 beginning high school) and yes, it's fully programmable and it came with a thick nicely printed manual containing listings for hundreds programs you could type in the calculator, then save it to cassette tape via the adapter.I remember it was even a "biorhythm" program that was kinda cool thing in the early 80s (inputting your birth date and current date and having a computer telling you how you'd feel LOL). It was one of the first scientific-engineering programmable pocket calculators in South America; and this one had the extra capability of composing music, using one of the overlays your received and making your own music cassette!.A truly vintage one of a kind.
@saultube44Ай бұрын
To save on paper, use a 10" Tablet better; helps save nature Good job, your friend will be pleased, specially after months, he probably thought: it's too old, no parts, it's a gonner. I was thinking, to take any small dirt on the parts: Blower, or compressed air can, or small vacuum cleaner, then Ultrasonic Cleaning & WD-40 wash up
@HeyBirtАй бұрын
I don't know. I can print out a few pages and they last me a lifetime. No batteries to charge, no new tablets to buy every few years. Trees are 'renewable' after all...
@saultube44Ай бұрын
@@HeyBirt Well if you're gonna use the paper lifetime, sure it's worth the print
@UnrealKazuАй бұрын
Hey Birt, I hope you see this comment, as I'm wondering about an aspect of your setup. I'm currently prepping to recreate your 12% H2O2 heat mat setup to do some retrobrighting of my own. I've got a similar setup; same size mat, roughly same size container, the only difference being that I'm using a 30 watt heat mat that has a maximum temperature setting of 45 degrees Celsius. I was wondering how close I could get to the 40 degrees, so I'm testing with tapwater. I've got a polystyrene base with a small sheet of aluminium insulation foil on top to reflect the heat back into the container. The container I've got covered with thick blankets to provide a little bit of insulation as well (not ideal, I know). I've got the heat mat set to 45 degrees, and put a temperature sensor in the water hooked up to a multimeter. After roughly 12 hours the water only gets up to 30-31 degrees with an ambient temperature of roughly 21 degrees. I double checked and the multimeter is accurate. So, for my question to you: I've gone over your video multiple times, as well as the data you've uploaded to OneDrive, but I cannot find if in your tests, by 'temperature', you're referring to the temperature you've got set on the heat mat, or if you've also got a temperature sensor in the hydrogen peroxide. Thanks in advance for answering! It's a really great and insightful video, and an awesome contribution to scientific research on this topic.
@HeyBirtАй бұрын
I was referring to measures temp of the solution. Note that I did not use a full 12% strength other than in testing. I found that 5%-6% worked well but took just a bit longer. I have a hunch that using string concentrations of hydrogen peroxide might lead to the problem some have had with blotchiness. I have seen this when using caustic chemicals to clean metals. If the cleaning solution is too strong it does not seem to act evenly.
@UnrealKazuАй бұрын
@@HeyBirt Thanks for the quick response! I assumed it was indeed the solution temperature, as that would be the most reliable way of testing. I'll look into increasing the temperature of my test setup, probably by adding more proper insulation to the sides and top of the container. Thanks for the note on the strength. My conclusions from your data was "Well, if it saves a day and produces the same results, better to go for 12%", but if there is a higher (gut feeling) chance of potential blotches, I think it's indeed better to err on the side of caution and take that additional day for a safer approach.
@tenminutetokyo2643Ай бұрын
A masterful repair, young Skywalker!
@theEIGHTBitBoxАй бұрын
Wow! Amazing work! This thing fascinates with its ability to create a directory on tape! I want that for my C64!
@Fezzler61Ай бұрын
Bravo! Nice save! Amazing to me. PX-8 is a nifty computer.
@jbaron007Ай бұрын
FANTASTIC! NICE KIT
@kaidokotoniАй бұрын
It is becoming increasingly difficult to obtain these computers in Japan. I am very surprised that there is such a wonderful collection so far away from Japan. My FX-860PVC/PB-100/Z-1 also has LCD problems and can no longer be repaired. I feel a little sad that there is no way to repair these. The back panel of the FX-860PVC states S-7 荷重計算 Load Calculation S-8 体積計算 Volume Calculation S-9 コスト計算 Cost Calculation It may have been used in places like construction sites. I enjoy watching your show every time. Thank you.
@Commodore128Mode3Ай бұрын
Hey Jeff! Careful in handling that equipment! Some of it is Sharp!
@wimwiddershinsАй бұрын
The Nagus would be pleased. Though his ears might not be with the tape.😁
@Fezzler61Ай бұрын
It works, "Excellent!" Dig it
@landspideАй бұрын
Looking forward to seeing that printer work!
@fuckutube65Ай бұрын
Sorry, Birt, but Jumpman is *not* a game to test c64 video quality with! ;-) Try something with good graphics, expecially hires gfx with black! Head over Heels comes to mind f.ex., or Amaurote...
@fuckutube65Ай бұрын
Hello. I am the guy that actually invented the c64 Svideo cable waaay back in 1996! ;-D /dk/crest
@lovemadeinjapanАй бұрын
Practical question, these seem to have a German keyboard layout here in Belgium, and as I type blind, I loathe the swapped Y and Z. Can you pull the keycaps and remap them with a ROM mod? I don't mind the eu's and the ringel-S.
@lovemadeinjapanАй бұрын
Very cool machine. Do you know anything about what you can pop in the 4 slots at the bottom. Two are filled in mine. I also have no idea how to set the clock.
@BlueFox284Ай бұрын
Dr. Egon Spengler's pocket computer of choice. 😊
@NuGanjaTronАй бұрын
The CE-125 and a 1250/1260 was a really neat combo!
@NuGanjaTronАй бұрын
46:35 What's that button and spring for anyway? The service manual refers to it as an "earth knob"... 🤔 I have a CE-122 with major corrosion that couldn't be saved anymore, despite major cleanup. Too far gone.
@HeyBirtАй бұрын
I suspect it was an attempt to bleed off any static charge from the printer. Early on there was a problem with the PC-1211 acting screwy while docked and printing. They started sending out two special case screws for the PC-1211 that had springs on the end. The springs would touch the front cover, so the front/rear covers were at the same potential.
@NuGanjaTronАй бұрын
@@HeyBirt Thanks for the info! Yeah, I found a note about the replacement screws along with the original (flat blade) crews in the carrying case. I still don't understand why it was so popular to equip these peripherals with built-in batteries. Individual cells were available off-the-shelf in electronics shops.
@tenminutetokyo26432 ай бұрын
I have a CoCo 1 and everything works but it has a black screen. I even installed a brand NOS RF modulator.
@beakytwitch79052 ай бұрын
The C book is very expensive to buy - is put of print. I downloaded a well scanned pdf copy for free from somewhere, then printed and bound my own copy on 100 gsm Mellotex paper, at A4. It will last well beyond my own lifespan. ❤😊
@evensgrey2 ай бұрын
I was in university in the 1990's, and I recall the textbook for a physiology course I took. At the end of the course, I went to the professor and told him that if he used the same textbook again, he should tell the students to ignore the first 3 1/2 chapters, because they were garbage. He told me he was writing hi own textbook. The one specific example I recall that shows the problems with the book is that it had at least the professors as authors, and at least three editors. And between them, they didn't know the difference between mass and weight. There was a place where they gave kilograms as the unit of weight. (A kilogram is a unit of mass, the correct unit for weight in metric is the Newton.)
@robbyxp12 ай бұрын
K&R brings back lots of lots of memories. I had the white cover version. Great video as always.
Пікірлер
An Ard!
I had a PC-4 back in high school, including the memory expansion and thermal printer. It's amazing to see one now, and to see how far we've come! Thanks for the video.
Think of the S key a feature not a bug! I feel your pain as I recently re-furbed my dad's old PB-100
Thanks for another inspiring video. I'm always amazed by your tenacity in tackling these broken devices.
Great job getting 4 out of 5 working! Great video and I love that you explain your process! Love it!
Who's on first? CPU #2! More amazing work!
Hmm, that looks like ancient Yutja. It appears to be a warning. "Collecting retro computer tech' is fraught with disaster!"
Great to see that you managed to get 4 out of 5 working…
That 5th one still bugs me though. I would love to find out what is wrong with it but now it is missing too many parts. Oh well, it gave its life for a good cause.
Hi, Birt! Would you, please, clarify about GE player? After changing the belts it still didn't make any sound at all? So the problem was not in belts, right? And you didn't continue to repair it further? The point is that I've got the same player, and it have a problem with the sound (distorted and slowed down), but the belts are intact, so I think what is the problem and should I change the belts or look for another problem...
I bought a replacement for the bad amplifier chip but have not yet gotten back to it. Your belts will need to be replaced. The original belts are loose which causes slipping and the distorted sound.
Awesome! What was the digitisation process and pipeline of audio back in 1983 though?
Mozer had his own system which was unlike any other. I think I gave the patent link in the video description. I did not spend a lot of time trying to decipher it. Other than that, it was your basic audio filtering (analog no doubt) and A2D conversion.
Great video.
I've a exact same controller/size VFD tube with 64x240 pixels. Would that work? Would be totally awesome!
Thanks, a bit too much for now, so it is in Save for later for a re-watch. I have to say I go for sunbrite nowadays, as it is very easy to do, and almost as succesful as previous messing with chemicals.
Thanks for explaining the weird chroma output, it is very hot by default. Too bad CRT's with a proper size for the C64 don't do S-video, it was only introduced on larger models (20 inch+) from the nineties. For flat TV's I find it of not much use, as most do a pretty good job in removing noise and artefacts from the RF signal. The best way to use a C64 remains investing in a 1084 monitor. Especially if you have a C128 as well, as it decodes RGBi as well.
So I'm trying to understand the concept of the cassette/printer dock for the PC-2 "battery needed to regulate the rest of the voltage". I have someone else telling me the same thing, but then I have other people telling me differently. I tested trying to power the cassette/printer dock using a 2A power supply at 6V - I get a "CHECK 8" and the printer won't self-test. Same when I set the power supply for 7.5V. It only works when I set the power supply for 9V. Note that I had long ago removed the battery from my cassette/printer dock.
The DC input jack is designed to slowly charge the battery, not power the whole unit in operation. There is a couple of diodes and a current limiting resistor in series so you can never get enough current to run the unit at the proper voltage. The current limiting resistor is NOT designed to pass the current to required to run the unit. The old power adapters were unregulated, i.e. a transformer, rectifier and capacitor. There is no voltage regulator. If the adapter is rated for 6V, 600ma then the output voltage will be about 6V when the load is 600ma. If loads less than 600ma the voltage will be higher. When the battery is in the circuit it presents a load to the power supply, dropping the voltage to the proper level. I do build battery packs for the CE-150. I did a whole video about this: kzread.info/dash/bejne/mGaHysyEadjXabw.html
@@HeyBirt I'm interested in a battery pack.
That soldering iron lol....
??
I have a Tandy PC3 that's in great condition. It's probably not possible to expand the ram, but I want to make a little breakout board for the 11 pin connector so I could use a microcassette to load and save programs, or RS232. The thought of opening up the internals is frightening. I'm happy the LCD is pristine.
The PC-3 needs additional circuitry to load/save using the expansion port. It does not have a (RS232) serial port built in. There is a guy in Japan making a USB interface that acts like the cassette interface.
@@HeyBirt Thanks for the info and I will certainly look into that! :)
Hi! I follow with great interest all your videos and your repair work that I find really awesome. I have a question about sharp pc 1600 that I wish to own (I have an overclocked pc-1500a) but prices of this units are prohibitive. I've noticed that a majority of pc-1600s on sale do not turn on with the very same symptoms of having the LCD display on and do not respond to the unit reset, do you know anything about this, apparently, common fault? thanks
I have found it can be difficult to get a PC-1600 to reset after putting batteries in it. There is some combination like pressing ON button while depressing rest on the back that will bring it back to life many times. (May not be the exact combo of buttons but something like it.)
Great video as usual...What type of solder sucker is that? Sounds like it has some proper ooomph!
It is an old Pace MBT rework station. Got it about 10 years ago from eBay only slightly used. It is probably 20+ years old at this point but Pace still supports it as the military bought scads of them.
These Okimate printers have a removable interface board which allows them to also work with the Apple II and IBM PC.
Is there a way to purcase another Solis Master 5000 coffee maker? HELP PLEASE
Cool video, I never opened that keyboard. I did this process on the other Model 2 because no keys worked on that keyboard 🙂
excellent work.. for whoever needs it, on the Realistic Minisette-9 the 6V DC plug needs to have the positive on the outside ring.
oh thanks for sharing. I landed in this channel coz I got FX-840P in my online local shop for just 17 usd.
Incredible adventure. Yay for HC-80/PX-8
very good job!
It is an interesting machine. Very overcomplicated for what it is though.
Hi Jeff.About the CASIO FX-502P that was my first calculator (my dad passed it to me when I was 12 beginning high school) and yes, it's fully programmable and it came with a thick nicely printed manual containing listings for hundreds programs you could type in the calculator, then save it to cassette tape via the adapter.I remember it was even a "biorhythm" program that was kinda cool thing in the early 80s (inputting your birth date and current date and having a computer telling you how you'd feel LOL). It was one of the first scientific-engineering programmable pocket calculators in South America; and this one had the extra capability of composing music, using one of the overlays your received and making your own music cassette!.A truly vintage one of a kind.
To save on paper, use a 10" Tablet better; helps save nature Good job, your friend will be pleased, specially after months, he probably thought: it's too old, no parts, it's a gonner. I was thinking, to take any small dirt on the parts: Blower, or compressed air can, or small vacuum cleaner, then Ultrasonic Cleaning & WD-40 wash up
I don't know. I can print out a few pages and they last me a lifetime. No batteries to charge, no new tablets to buy every few years. Trees are 'renewable' after all...
@@HeyBirt Well if you're gonna use the paper lifetime, sure it's worth the print
Hey Birt, I hope you see this comment, as I'm wondering about an aspect of your setup. I'm currently prepping to recreate your 12% H2O2 heat mat setup to do some retrobrighting of my own. I've got a similar setup; same size mat, roughly same size container, the only difference being that I'm using a 30 watt heat mat that has a maximum temperature setting of 45 degrees Celsius. I was wondering how close I could get to the 40 degrees, so I'm testing with tapwater. I've got a polystyrene base with a small sheet of aluminium insulation foil on top to reflect the heat back into the container. The container I've got covered with thick blankets to provide a little bit of insulation as well (not ideal, I know). I've got the heat mat set to 45 degrees, and put a temperature sensor in the water hooked up to a multimeter. After roughly 12 hours the water only gets up to 30-31 degrees with an ambient temperature of roughly 21 degrees. I double checked and the multimeter is accurate. So, for my question to you: I've gone over your video multiple times, as well as the data you've uploaded to OneDrive, but I cannot find if in your tests, by 'temperature', you're referring to the temperature you've got set on the heat mat, or if you've also got a temperature sensor in the hydrogen peroxide. Thanks in advance for answering! It's a really great and insightful video, and an awesome contribution to scientific research on this topic.
I was referring to measures temp of the solution. Note that I did not use a full 12% strength other than in testing. I found that 5%-6% worked well but took just a bit longer. I have a hunch that using string concentrations of hydrogen peroxide might lead to the problem some have had with blotchiness. I have seen this when using caustic chemicals to clean metals. If the cleaning solution is too strong it does not seem to act evenly.
@@HeyBirt Thanks for the quick response! I assumed it was indeed the solution temperature, as that would be the most reliable way of testing. I'll look into increasing the temperature of my test setup, probably by adding more proper insulation to the sides and top of the container. Thanks for the note on the strength. My conclusions from your data was "Well, if it saves a day and produces the same results, better to go for 12%", but if there is a higher (gut feeling) chance of potential blotches, I think it's indeed better to err on the side of caution and take that additional day for a safer approach.
A masterful repair, young Skywalker!
Wow! Amazing work! This thing fascinates with its ability to create a directory on tape! I want that for my C64!
Bravo! Nice save! Amazing to me. PX-8 is a nifty computer.
FANTASTIC! NICE KIT
It is becoming increasingly difficult to obtain these computers in Japan. I am very surprised that there is such a wonderful collection so far away from Japan. My FX-860PVC/PB-100/Z-1 also has LCD problems and can no longer be repaired. I feel a little sad that there is no way to repair these. The back panel of the FX-860PVC states S-7 荷重計算 Load Calculation S-8 体積計算 Volume Calculation S-9 コスト計算 Cost Calculation It may have been used in places like construction sites. I enjoy watching your show every time. Thank you.
Hey Jeff! Careful in handling that equipment! Some of it is Sharp!
The Nagus would be pleased. Though his ears might not be with the tape.😁
It works, "Excellent!" Dig it
Looking forward to seeing that printer work!
Sorry, Birt, but Jumpman is *not* a game to test c64 video quality with! ;-) Try something with good graphics, expecially hires gfx with black! Head over Heels comes to mind f.ex., or Amaurote...
Hello. I am the guy that actually invented the c64 Svideo cable waaay back in 1996! ;-D /dk/crest
Practical question, these seem to have a German keyboard layout here in Belgium, and as I type blind, I loathe the swapped Y and Z. Can you pull the keycaps and remap them with a ROM mod? I don't mind the eu's and the ringel-S.
Very cool machine. Do you know anything about what you can pop in the 4 slots at the bottom. Two are filled in mine. I also have no idea how to set the clock.
Dr. Egon Spengler's pocket computer of choice. 😊
The CE-125 and a 1250/1260 was a really neat combo!
46:35 What's that button and spring for anyway? The service manual refers to it as an "earth knob"... 🤔 I have a CE-122 with major corrosion that couldn't be saved anymore, despite major cleanup. Too far gone.
I suspect it was an attempt to bleed off any static charge from the printer. Early on there was a problem with the PC-1211 acting screwy while docked and printing. They started sending out two special case screws for the PC-1211 that had springs on the end. The springs would touch the front cover, so the front/rear covers were at the same potential.
@@HeyBirt Thanks for the info! Yeah, I found a note about the replacement screws along with the original (flat blade) crews in the carrying case. I still don't understand why it was so popular to equip these peripherals with built-in batteries. Individual cells were available off-the-shelf in electronics shops.
I have a CoCo 1 and everything works but it has a black screen. I even installed a brand NOS RF modulator.
The C book is very expensive to buy - is put of print. I downloaded a well scanned pdf copy for free from somewhere, then printed and bound my own copy on 100 gsm Mellotex paper, at A4. It will last well beyond my own lifespan. ❤😊
I was in university in the 1990's, and I recall the textbook for a physiology course I took. At the end of the course, I went to the professor and told him that if he used the same textbook again, he should tell the students to ignore the first 3 1/2 chapters, because they were garbage. He told me he was writing hi own textbook. The one specific example I recall that shows the problems with the book is that it had at least the professors as authors, and at least three editors. And between them, they didn't know the difference between mass and weight. There was a place where they gave kilograms as the unit of weight. (A kilogram is a unit of mass, the correct unit for weight in metric is the Newton.)
K&R brings back lots of lots of memories. I had the white cover version. Great video as always.
I have a book for chip reference its very useful