I was having the same issues and replaced my belt with a 5/8x92 belt. Works perfectly. My tractor was an older model and called for a 5/8 by 91 belt.
@zippiezoo93194 күн бұрын
@@LeroyBraun thank you sir..that video was 3yr ago but that indeed was the problem..I decided to go with OEM belt (Genuine MTD) and haven't had any trouble since..but man it was a hard lesson.. take care.
@LeroyBraun4 күн бұрын
@@zippiezoo9319 I ran into a few things before figuring it out, lol.
@AllanCarrieАй бұрын
Do you have link for the spring? I cant find it
@zippiezoo9319Ай бұрын
Purchased on ebay 3yrs ago link no longer available..here's the part info to search for. Original MTD Spring 753-08301 Compatible With 732-04764 $14.87 Unit price $14.87 Return window closed on Sep 27, 2020.
@taddmeyer76972 ай бұрын
can someone take a picture of where the little tension sprong for the gear select attaches from the handle to the frame???? i cant for the life of me figure this out....
@arloarlo58123 ай бұрын
This is the video I've been looking for to solve my problem on my 2009 Bronco! This large idler spring from the gas pedal was also lost on my tractor, but once I installed a new one, I saw that when the gas pedal is engaged (while the tractor was still off) the two small pulleys pull away from the belt, making it very relaxed/lose. If I start up the tractor and engage the gas pedal. I'm afraid that the belt is gonna come flying off the pulleys and get eaten up. When the gas pedal is pushed all the way down (full throttle) is the belt supposed to be very loose around the pulleys, especially the two smaller pulleys? At first, I thought I had ordered the wrong belt, and that it was too long, but I verified that it is the same size as the old one. Your comment please?
@zippiezoo93193 ай бұрын
Just the opposite... when the pedal is engaged the two idler pulleys put tension on the larger belt until it comes tight against the engine drive pulley .... yeah somethings not right there.. the manual has the exact belt size but I recommend the manufacturers belt OEM genuine MTD part. Aftermarket is hit or miss. Once you miss you learn...hope this helps..
@zippiezoo93193 ай бұрын
Also... if you don't have the manual you can download it from troybilt.
@matthewinga95464 ай бұрын
My problem was new belts are 5/8”, old belts were 3/8”. I went back to 3/8” belts and all the belt problems went away for me.
@DS-bk3mc5 ай бұрын
These MTD vari-drives will eat aftermarket belts like candy. An OEM belt will cost more, but last longer. The differences between OEM and aftermarket are not visible to the eye, but OEM will be slightly different in length, width, and v-pitch. For example, and OEM belt on a machine I have will be 0.659” wide, while an aftermarket belt will be 0.625”
@zippiezoo93195 ай бұрын
Absolutely...there was a slight difference about 1/16" in the width between the aftermarket belt and the OEM..not noticeable at a glance... been 3 seasons since this video and have had NO more problems with the OEM... the story is actually worse than you think...I bought 2 aftermarket belts..it never occurred to me the belts were wrong since the part #matched...but it was a hard lesson learned.
@felipesandoval44409 ай бұрын
having the same problem since i bought it used very nice condition that beklt sits outside uncovered your gunna dry it out i just replaced it in febof2023 thank you
@marshallrichardson857511 ай бұрын
What would be wrong with it if the belt never stop spinning after you let off the engagement pedal i put that same spring on mine today an my belts keep spinning even if the tractor is in neutral any help please
@jamesgeorge170911 ай бұрын
As long as it rotates easily it should work but will not hurt it's performance. Good luck. PERSAVERE.😅😅😅
@jamesgeorge170911 ай бұрын
I just finished replacing all the belts on mine. It sounds like the variator was a little noisy. I'm old and had a hard time replacing the long top belt because I don't have very much strength in my hands I removed one of the idler pullies and was then able to put the speed belt back on it really helped me alot and of course put the idler back on. Most all riding mowers are made by MTD, It appears to me they are always looking for ways to make them harder to work on, my suggestion is to slot the motor mount holes which would help alot. Have fun and above all be safe.😊
@zippiezoo931911 ай бұрын
Thanks for your input..It is difficult to work on, I too am no spring chick..haha.. good idea about the slotted motor mounts! 👌
@philliphall519811 ай бұрын
Also look at pulley really close for a rock or peace of gravel stuck in it , yes had a zero turn with it and owner had replaced belt twice in a week, I found it and no problem now 😊
@zippiezoo931911 ай бұрын
Thanks for the feed back..I can see how something jammed in there could go un-noticed.. if can happen it will.. right? Agains thanks for the reply.
@mrchad97z49 Жыл бұрын
I like your idea about raising the mower.. Floor jack, jack stands and ramps. Anyway, I am surprised these mowers work at all. They are just a bunch of springs, and belts that are designed to rub and lose friction to start moving and stop and its all held together by chewing gum and paper clips. My 2008 TB Bronco makes a Knocking noise when you start to enguage the drive belt(s) and I have no idea which contraption is making the noise... I looked underneath and there are so many belts and pulleys holding the thing together, I am just surprised it has worked as long as it has without any problems. i did figure out which belts are for the drive propultion by pressing the accelerator and watching underneath.. But So far I cannot tell what the problem is.. Oh well.. I will have to monitor it... See if it gets worse..
@zippiezoo9319 Жыл бұрын
I know sound like you may need to jack yours to see whats going .. but take care...and use jackstands ..take the wheels off ..safety safety safety.. nothing worth get hurt over.. use OEM belts...don't just go by the part number.. they are NOT the same.. 2008..haha.. love it... keep it going and don't let it wup ya..
@philliphall5198 Жыл бұрын
Rusty ones will not shift or change speed, remove and sand it tell free Keep out of the weather 😊😊😊
@harveygregory581 Жыл бұрын
I know why your belt is getting shredded,.if you look at the idler pulley support for the upper triangle routed belt, the back of the lower drive belt is rubbing against the idler pulley support bracket below your pulley. I ground a relief notch into the support bracket about 1/4 to 5/16 in deep enough to clear the belt and haven't had any further issues shredding belts. Your video helped me figure out an issue I was having with the speed pedal, I may have forgot to reinstall that spring that you were talking about. I think I may have seen something fall out from under the mower when I test drove it. I will check it out in the morning and hope that's what it was. Now if I can just find that damn thing in my yard. Wish me luck!
@stephenvarney33413 күн бұрын
I believe you are right, you can see it rub on the bracket, so just cut a small amount to clear the vibrating belt, also check all the other pulleys for burs
@aniolet1 Жыл бұрын
I’m having the same problem eating belts! I even had the same missing spring you had… just received my new idler spring and OME belt …will put everything together for a test run tomorrow. Here’s a easy short cut putting the belts around the variable pulley … my (2011 bronco) has (2 bolts on the outside frame) 1/2” bolts heads that when taken out (bolts hold the variable pulley in place) the belts slip on in seconds. 😊
@zippiezoo9319 Жыл бұрын
Thanks, let me know how it goes.. I have been running 3 seasons now since I made the video.. both drive belts are in good shape.. I wish you luck..
@bucksnortbumblefuk6872 Жыл бұрын
Dumbest belt setup. Engineers... pft.
@insidethreewide7133 Жыл бұрын
Thanks for taking the time to put this video together! You did an outstanding job getting your point across. Very informative. My situation is the same as yours. I replaced the belt at first with what is supposed to be an OEM made by sunbelt at Lowes. The tractor would creep when you let off the accelerator. Worked fine other than that. So I ordered an actual MTD Club Cadet and replaced the belt and all is fine except for the sloppy belt just like in this video. I matched up the new oem belt with the Lowes belt and found it to be about 1.5mm thinner in the height of the belt. It made all the difference in the world. In my best guess, is that the 1.5 mm adds 3mm per pulley times 4 pullies is 12mm or approximately 1/2" which makes the new belt actually 1/2" longer in theory and that was all it needed to stop the creeping. Adjusting the linkage on the go pedal had no effect on the creeping whatsoever. It is still on the jack stands and now out of gas until tomorrow. My question is did loading up the transaxle under normal riding conditions correct the slop in the belt. My tractor is a 2011 model that has been garage kept and is still in good condition, is just now getting all the belts replaced for the very first time. I was all excited to have all new belts only to have to rack my brains and try different routings for the belt until I watched a few videos, and everyone was saying you have to buy oem or some weird things will happen to the drive. It appears they were all right! Oh and btw, my spring was missing also and as big as it is, I don't know how I could have missed it in the yard. Being as you are the 4th person I've heard that lost their spring as well which leaves me to believe it was never installed as it worked perfect without it.
@zippiezoo9319 Жыл бұрын
Reply...yes. yes .. exactly... we won't make that mistake again.. I assumed it was the correct belt because the part number matched.. ass u me.. I am ashamed to say.. I bought 2 belts from the same place.. not thinking it was the wrong belt.. it never occured to me.. genuine OEM MTD for me.. you can get away with a clone sometimes.. but when it bites it bites hard. Also.. I now keep a log on any thing I'm working on.. because we all forget.. take care and thanks for your input.. and sorry the delayed response.. one more thing.. it's been almost 3 seasons since I made that video and my belts OEM are holding up well... even with the oscillation..
@insidethreewide7133 Жыл бұрын
@@zippiezoo9319 yes, all is well. Thanks for the 3 year update. I also might add that running it with the tight belt would damn near throw me off of it when taking off. It took off like a top fuel dragster! I clocked it at 22mph on the street in front of my house! Never again will I make that mistake. Thanks for your reply.
@jamesgeorge170911 ай бұрын
@@zippiezoo9319 The worst thing is arthur in my hands, and my knees so getting up and down is also an issue. Good luck and what the old Indian said to Josie PERSEVERE.
@davidstabler6944 Жыл бұрын
Hi what is that spring called? Thanks David.
@zippiezoo9319 Жыл бұрын
It's in the manual.. on the exploded parts sheet.. Description 'Spring Tension' part#732-04764.. it doesn't have a name in the manual..just a description. Refer.#20 Transmission...just curious, did you loose yours also?.. I put a couple of cable ties on mine and it's worked fine for a couple years now.. good luck!
@marcmartinovic5366 Жыл бұрын
The best video yet on this subject. I have transmission belt original requirements 5/8x90.8". When new belt is installed it seems to be jus a hair to small. Adjusting idler bracket assembly original belt size is too small... staring riding mower engine mower moves forward or reverse depend in which gear mower is. That is why I think if belt would be just little longer mower would not move because there would be more slack on the belt until speed pedal is pressed. What do you think? Thank you in advance for your opinion and your suggestion.
@RickyShew3 ай бұрын
Only oem belts will work
@marvinhicks4477 Жыл бұрын
After changing belts on my Troybuilt bronco it wants too Continue moving without foot on throddle pedal……any suggestions
@joshuamichael246311 ай бұрын
This just happened with my Troybilt bronco, what did you wind up doing to resolve the problem?
@marshallrichardson857511 ай бұрын
Mine doing the same even drive off in neutral
@RickyShew3 ай бұрын
You need oem belts
@hwilkins8335 Жыл бұрын
Thanks so much for this video. I've been looking all day to try to find a video that show me where the same spring go to the lawn on my my Troy-Bilt. Your your video was clear, precise, and very clear. This allowed me to determine where the spring go. Thanks again!
@zippiezoo9319 Жыл бұрын
Try using a cable tie on each end to prevent it coming off again and thanks for the feedback.
@hwilkins8335 Жыл бұрын
@@zippiezoo9319 Great idea ! Thanks
@69spanks Жыл бұрын
My belt was rubbing against the head of a bolt and I ended up putting a longer bolt with a spacer around it. It worked, but I have to change out the plastic spacer every couple years bc it eventually wears it down to where it would rub on the bolt threads.
@zippiezoo9319 Жыл бұрын
Thanks for the feedback.. very little tolerance and add belt oscillation .. I used a belt that was just slightly narrower than the oem MTD belt and it would shred it.. went back to MTD belt and am on season 3 and it still looks good.. thanks again
@scottmarkham9466 Жыл бұрын
I have done the same thing with mine, but it still won't move. I hope the tranny didn't break !
@scottmarkham9466 Жыл бұрын
The belt appeared to run into the idler spring !
@zippiezoo9319 Жыл бұрын
Yes it does.. too close.. but it has worked like this for 2 years now...the belt still looks good.. the problem turned out to be a aftermarket belt..the oem belt (in the video) albeit next to the idler spring works fine.. I thought it was the problem too.. good eyes and thanks for your comment.. I learned a rookie lesson the hard way.. go with OEM belts! It's not worth headache..later.
@arttarr8244 Жыл бұрын
I discovered this problem on my Troy-Bilt mower when I bought it brand new the problem is one of the keeper pin bolts is too short and the belt actually rides on the hex head I replaced it with a longer Bolt and sleeved it so that it rides on the smooth part I don't know why dealers haven't discovered this
@zippiezoo9319 Жыл бұрын
Exactly!
@philliphall5198 Жыл бұрын
Rusty pulley is a problem Keep them in out of weather will solve 95% of problems
@zippiezoo931911 ай бұрын
Yes, I do now..and sorry about the 8mo. delay. I missed your comment..I cleaned all the rust off with a wire brush and have been running great for 2.5 mowing seasons without trouble..I just jinxed myself..knock on wood!! Thanks for the input..
@philliphall5198 Жыл бұрын
Spring get weak and rusty Check adjustment on panel also
@philliphall5198 Жыл бұрын
Read the manual
@ronh382 Жыл бұрын
My lower drive belt is arranged like ours, but on mine there is a ~1/4" pin that the slack side of the drive belt goes around. It takes out some of the oscillation. Mine is located across from the belt tensioner assembly. Some models use a removable pin. Could yours have fallen out?
@zippiezoo9319 Жыл бұрын
Thx Ron, Its been doing fine now for 2 seasons with the oscillations..checked the belts a couple of weeks ago and they look like new.. but I am going to take another look to see if I can see where there might have been a pin.. Appreciate the input..
@scottseal418 Жыл бұрын
Where'd does the skinny spring connect
@southside8714 Жыл бұрын
Great video. Very thorough!
@zippiezoo9319 Жыл бұрын
Much appreciated Southside!😁👍
@mechanic2433 Жыл бұрын
The belt is rubbing the upper tensioner pulley bracket.u can hear and see back side of belt shaving off.
@bauer09122 жыл бұрын
I was wondering if you, or if you know of, anyone that has a video of what to take off to route the belt through the middle pulleys? The bracket is blocking simply routing it through and I dont know what I need to take off to get the belt through the middle pulleys.
@zippiezoo93192 жыл бұрын
I dont know of a video.. but I am familiar with what has to be done on this model..Its not difficult..You remove the center stud that goes through the rear pulley..this will allow you to swing the bracket out of the way.. Again as i remember it's been a year ago..it was pretty easy..good luck.
@bauer09122 жыл бұрын
@@zippiezoo9319 Thank you for reply. Ill try later.
@NWOslave Жыл бұрын
i know this comment is from last year but this video is probably what you are looking for. i had to do what was recommended to get the pully off kzread.info/dash/bejne/lnWbra1qoq65Yrw.html
@jabroski692 жыл бұрын
I hear your accent I'm gonna say your from upstate sc
@zippiezoo93192 жыл бұрын
What accent? Haha... very close...lower NC.
@jabroski69 Жыл бұрын
@@zippiezoo9319 haha I must have been drunk cussing my damn pos troy bilt drive belt looking up vids for answers bc I dont remember making this comment lol but man this pos is pissing me off my broncoe either eats them up or just now dead mid lawn mow I have a 90" long 5/8" wide belt. What size does your drive belt and deck belt run bc troy bilt told me 96.5" x 1/2" and wasn't even close for deck so they don't even know currently I have a 90x5/8 on drive and 1/2 x 107" deck belt (deck belt is close but no cigar as when I lift to level 5 it runs the blade so to short lol but that's the longest lowes or tractor supply has
@afhostie2 жыл бұрын
Where'd you find those diagrams?
@zippiezoo93192 жыл бұрын
Just saw this... sorry for the late reply.. the parts blow up is from the owners manual..If you dont have it you can download it from Troybilt web site. the routing diagram, I will have to go back and find.. this was my first video.. I should have put this in the description.. Thanks for watching.. if I find the other I will reply to this thread..
@Unsocial012 жыл бұрын
That is not the spring for that mower
@zippiezoo93192 жыл бұрын
Are you sure? because it's the part# from the original owners manual plus it's OEM part from MTD who makes the mower..and its been working like a charm for a over year now..
@MSBruce-fx1nx2 жыл бұрын
The belt is routed wrong I think. It needs to route around the variable speed puppy the other way. You may want to recheck it.
@zippiezoo93192 жыл бұрын
No, my main problem besides a missing spring was the use of a third party belt (that had correct part # by the way). The third party belt was the same length but was 1/8" narrower which caused it to ride too deep in the variable speed pulley where it was chewed up by burrs. After which I replaced with a OEM MTD belt.. runs like a charm.. thanks for your input!
@rightsideofthegrass81142 жыл бұрын
I do some lawn tractor work on the side. I just finished a belt replacement on a Craftsman T1400, Model 247-203-732. The layout looks identity to your machine. I used belt 954-0467A as the engine to variable drive, and 954-04208A as the variable drive to transaxle. I think these are the same belts. I have never done this job before. I had the deck off, but not the wheels. Some things I learned: (1) Getting the belts off the variable drive was a bear. Why? I am not sure. But, I think the key was to work with two hands, one of which was moving the sliding sheave up and down, in order to get the belt past the frame at the rear. The transaxle one came off pretty quickly and easy. I had removed the nut off the transaxle drive pulley, slid the pulley to the side. I used a ratchet strap to pull the tension idler arm creating slack in the belt. I ran the strap off to the right side the the machine, along the edge and across the back, finding a place to hook. I was going to take the spring off, but was concerned it would be difficult to get reattached. It seemed very tight, so chose not to remove the tension spring. The lower belt was much more difficult to get off the variable drive. I watched many videos and many had three bolts holding a support bracket for the variable drive pulley assembly. This machine does not work that way. I think the pulley is held in place with three bolts. I found them, but saw access was very difficult. I think they had 5/16" heads. Getting the lower belt off the variable pulley proved to be the most challenging. The belt on this machine was the original (I think it is a 2013 model, used about 35 hours per season). It had chunks missing. I could not use a belt section with missing pieces. I think the key was to work with two hands, sliding the variable section of the pulley up and down. The new belt slide in easily. This led me to think the old one was frayed, making its cross section bigger and more difficult to get through the tight clearances. Initially, I put the new one in wrong and had to take it out. Ten seconds, and I had it out! This is far, far less time than the old one. In hindsight, I wish I would have just cut the old one to get it out. I initially ran the belt wrong through the two idlers. Yes, one of them has to be taken out, snaking the belt into postion, then replacing the idler. I think it was the idler closest to the front of the tractor. Even when the belt is fully installed, it is not tensioned, with or without the parking brake. Do not be alarmed at this! I spent much time, thinking I had something wrong. But, when running, it works well. Most of the videos show removal of the nut on the transaxle pulley has access from the top. This model does not have access, the support bar is blocking access. Come in the left side of the machine, in front of the wheel with a 7/8" box end wrench. Put a screw driver through the hole in the pulley to hold in place. The nut came off easily despite not having good access. Some comments, "I will not buy a Troy." This same machine is branded differently. For example, Cut Cadet machine is LXT1040. I think it is identical. So, at least Troy, Craftsman and Cub Cadet are same, differently branded. Perhaps there is a Yardmaster, Yardman, and others that are identical. I think the manufacturer of all of them is MTD. This is why the OEM belts are labeled MTD. I agree with others in this thread - buy MTD belts, not those from a local auto supply house. Also, I have learned from the videos that there are many lawn tractors with this variable sheave ground speed control design. To be sure, there are many variations, so buy belts for the specific model. All are not exactly the same, even though they are the same in principle. This is probably not a job for the casual homeowner with few tools, and little mechanical repair experience. P.S. I wish I had another job just like this one to do now, while it is fresh in mind!
@zippiezoo93192 жыл бұрын
Agree.. the only reason I had the wheels off was for safety when I was under the tractor while it was running with transmission engaged (for video). Thanks for your input.. The learning curve is the worst.. Could have saved lots of headache by just buying MTD belts like you said.. hope this thread helps others.
@paulaleksinko90392 жыл бұрын
Nice video, I have the same problem with my Bronco, I need to order the spring, Can you please tell me whats the spring name to order the right one? Thanks for your help
@zippiezoo93192 жыл бұрын
The spring part# is 732-04764 Spring Extension, .56 OD x 12.05 (source: my owners manual) recommend you verify using your manual.. just in case.. good luck.. note: maybe use a cable tie on each end when installing.. lost springs seems to be pretty prevalent..
@cristianmdn2 жыл бұрын
Where did you get that diagram from?
@zippiezoo93192 жыл бұрын
Get back with you tomorrow.. I'll try and post it here or maybe the link.
@zippiezoo93192 жыл бұрын
I added the links in the description. Hope that helps,
@Firstmajortomlikestoticker2 жыл бұрын
Yes No Belts on an Electric mover
@zippiezoo93192 жыл бұрын
Well.. I have to use what I have..for now anyway seasons about over.. and it's gone pretty well this year.. thanks for feedback
@petev.93572 жыл бұрын
noticed 2 things: Your variable speed pulley is made different then mine. I have a shaft with bearings inside, no edge on the inside for the belt to hit. Where is your variable speed pulley mounted?? Mine has a long through bolt that goes through the transaxle. Yours looks like it's mounted elsewhere. Look at that Teryl video I referenced in your other video and you will see. BTW: That whole assembly is pretty pricey at over $200. there are Chinese knockoffs on fleabay, much cheaper, but I don't know how well they will work.
@zippiezoo93192 жыл бұрын
Its mounted to the chassis in the back under the seat.. it tore the fabric cover of the non OEM belt.. it was a bear to figure out .. the OEM mtd belt didnt touch the edge and has been doing fine this season..knock on wood..
@zippiezoo93192 жыл бұрын
I apologize for the crazy late response.. but thanks for sharing that.. they must have changed the design... since I installed the oem genuine mtd belt.. it no longer touches the lip and burrs. So far so good..thx again!
@petev.93572 жыл бұрын
So I have a 2000 MTD Yard machine with the exact same system of variable pulleys. Still works great. I only replaced the drive belts once so far. Lots of hard use. Taryl has great videos on changing those belts. He just turns the tractor on its side. You need to remove the variable pulley assembly and clean and lube it. Then install correctly with all washers in right place. Also. No substitutions on belt brands. Get official OEM belts. Taryl used 1 Rotary and one other brand. Might work, but spend the money on OEM. That spring is different on my MTD, much tighter, I never lost it. Even though Troy Bilt is made in the same factory in Ohio as MTD (as is Craftsman, and MANY others) there are differences in springs etc. Cool video, neat to see the belts in operation. Variable pulley operates just like a CVT or a snowmobile. kzread.info/dash/bejne/e6mFx7CDp7KYqqg.html Here is Taryl's video. Look past the goofiness, He knows his stuff.
@zippiezoo93192 жыл бұрын
That's encouraging... good advise I think.. because the no compromise on the belt rule bit me..I bought 2 kevlar belts using the part number..and that was the problem thinking no way 2 belts would be bad..welp.. I wont make that mistake again.. genuine mtd ..for belts.. Taril was right.. I will subscribe and thx for feedback.
@IshMotorparts2 жыл бұрын
Hi, I don't know if you find the problem But here I'm speaking by experience There is a belt divider it eats up the inside the belt immediately if it's too short or worn out I just recently had my third fix two husky bronco, and last was Troy bilt,and it's the some problems But this time I made a video and its included in the video hope this helps
@zippiezoo93192 жыл бұрын
I just inspected both belts just this week and they looked like new actually so my problem is resolved but by belt divider do you mean the variable speed pulley.. because that was my problem and it indeed was eating the inside the belt like you said.. anyway.. I will check out your video and thanks for your help.
@IshMotorparts2 жыл бұрын
zoo ok by looking at your video at owners manual, it shows there its says Keeper Pins, but I call it divider , lol
@IshMotorparts2 жыл бұрын
zoom on the other part of your video I think there's # 45 and 25 above those there is the drive belt and a number but i can't see what's that numbers so right between those bottom numbers and the top one the keeper pins its located in there
@zippiezoo93192 жыл бұрын
@@IshMotorparts got ya.. I'll definitely check that out and reply back .. good night
@426superbee42 жыл бұрын
The fun part is trying to fine parts. he hee There no number on em Way they got there junk listed, make it even harder , Way i get the right parts most of the time is, cause i measure every thing on it ~ on belts i get them a inch or 2 shorter, cause there stretched
@jamesgeorge170911 ай бұрын
Part numbers are in your Owners Manual.
@jamesgeorge170911 ай бұрын
There is another issue the belts must be exact getting them shorter will really hose thinhs up!!!!!!!!!!
@426superbee411 ай бұрын
@@jamesgeorge1709 There none thing about sizes of belts in? the Owners Manual
@426superbee42 жыл бұрын
The Craftsman T140 got the same junky set up! I 'am having a belt started jumping the idler pulley guard, on the transmission belt. and it keep Jumping the dam pully. Idk how in the world it can jump threw the pully guard but it does. AND A BITCH to get in back threw the pully guard! Every thing else is correct. HOW IT JUMPS THREW THE PULLY GUARD is a Mystery ! 😡 The spring on it is super strong! The belt guard is so close to the pully it can't get threw it. How it does? is beyond me? Might be the belt is stretching > who knows? might be the idler pully bearing heating up, to stretch the belt out to. WHO KNOWS ?
@426superbee42 жыл бұрын
The Craftsman T140 got the same junk setup. Idk how in the world ! it can jumps threw the belt guard on the idler pulley~ but it does. and a royal pain to stick threw to the idler pully on the transmission belt , They put lock bolt on the dam nuts. You have to beak them off ~ Plus idk why its doing this for? Its got a belt guard on the idler pully . Every time it want move, i take the battery out and it jumped the dam pully! 😡 Every thing else looks correct.
@harleysmith3830 Жыл бұрын
Did you ever find the cause? I’m having the same issue
@426superbee4 Жыл бұрын
@@harleysmith3830 I just parked it for now. I think its the drive belt to the transmission idler pulley. Lip not over lapping far enough and over shoots the idler pulley > THAT WHAT I THINK IT IS? The idler pulley arm could be bent to? NEEDS A STRONGER ARM. I think a high raise idler pulley the same size would work. I don't know right YET FOR SURE? If you fine a fix let me know! BUT THAT MY GUESS Cheers buddy
@darlenedimarco79992 жыл бұрын
Variable drive pulley bearings
@zippiezoo93192 жыл бұрын
That's what I thought too.. but it was cheap belts kevlar too.. plus a missing idler arm spring but mainly the belts.. the v was a bit deeper than the OEM genuine MTD.. I didnt notice it.. the crappy belts had the correct part # but it wasnt exact width or depth.. diameter was spot on.. thanks for input...
@paulbains91522 жыл бұрын
If its burnt through in one spot , the stalled belt , is getting eaten by the engine drive pulley . Did it get stuck in the guides up front ? The replacement belt is supposed to be a Kevlar wrapped belt , and they are not so deep . If you used an industrial 5/8" x length belt , they are cheaper , but are too thick to go through the guides ? Too many springs will also kill it . I think if you use an industrial type 5/8 belt , its also too thick to climb in the variable speed pulley . Also an industrial 5/8 belt , is too thick to clear in the tensioner , and will rub on the bracket arm , and stall . Hope I didnt give you a headache .
@zippiezoo93192 жыл бұрын
No, actually you are on target.. the non oem belts had a slightly deeper V only by fraction of an inch, maybe 1/8" or less and going too deep in the pulley were they were eat up by machine burrs.. I think I show this on one of my other vids. It's doing fine so far this year with the genuine mtd belts.. But it was a royal pain figuring it out. I will not forget this lesson.. and thanks for your input..wish I had this last season. Take care.
@emanuellchavez8142 жыл бұрын
Which is the size of the belt I been struggling trying to find it!
@zippiezoo93192 жыл бұрын
On the model shown for this video.. it has two belts for the drive, a lower and upper and of course the deck belt.. upper belt 954-04208 40.9 poly and the lower 954-0467A 90.93 poly (from the manual). My lesson learned is to not cheap out, bite the bullit and buy oem belts.. the ones I buy now says genuine MTD part.. especially mower belts. You can get away with cheaper on some things but not mower belts. Sorry for rant.. Just checked my belts yesterday and they look good so far.
Пікірлер
I was having the same issues and replaced my belt with a 5/8x92 belt. Works perfectly. My tractor was an older model and called for a 5/8 by 91 belt.
@@LeroyBraun thank you sir..that video was 3yr ago but that indeed was the problem..I decided to go with OEM belt (Genuine MTD) and haven't had any trouble since..but man it was a hard lesson.. take care.
@@zippiezoo9319 I ran into a few things before figuring it out, lol.
Do you have link for the spring? I cant find it
Purchased on ebay 3yrs ago link no longer available..here's the part info to search for. Original MTD Spring 753-08301 Compatible With 732-04764 $14.87 Unit price $14.87 Return window closed on Sep 27, 2020.
can someone take a picture of where the little tension sprong for the gear select attaches from the handle to the frame???? i cant for the life of me figure this out....
This is the video I've been looking for to solve my problem on my 2009 Bronco! This large idler spring from the gas pedal was also lost on my tractor, but once I installed a new one, I saw that when the gas pedal is engaged (while the tractor was still off) the two small pulleys pull away from the belt, making it very relaxed/lose. If I start up the tractor and engage the gas pedal. I'm afraid that the belt is gonna come flying off the pulleys and get eaten up. When the gas pedal is pushed all the way down (full throttle) is the belt supposed to be very loose around the pulleys, especially the two smaller pulleys? At first, I thought I had ordered the wrong belt, and that it was too long, but I verified that it is the same size as the old one. Your comment please?
Just the opposite... when the pedal is engaged the two idler pulleys put tension on the larger belt until it comes tight against the engine drive pulley .... yeah somethings not right there.. the manual has the exact belt size but I recommend the manufacturers belt OEM genuine MTD part. Aftermarket is hit or miss. Once you miss you learn...hope this helps..
Also... if you don't have the manual you can download it from troybilt.
My problem was new belts are 5/8”, old belts were 3/8”. I went back to 3/8” belts and all the belt problems went away for me.
These MTD vari-drives will eat aftermarket belts like candy. An OEM belt will cost more, but last longer. The differences between OEM and aftermarket are not visible to the eye, but OEM will be slightly different in length, width, and v-pitch. For example, and OEM belt on a machine I have will be 0.659” wide, while an aftermarket belt will be 0.625”
Absolutely...there was a slight difference about 1/16" in the width between the aftermarket belt and the OEM..not noticeable at a glance... been 3 seasons since this video and have had NO more problems with the OEM... the story is actually worse than you think...I bought 2 aftermarket belts..it never occurred to me the belts were wrong since the part #matched...but it was a hard lesson learned.
having the same problem since i bought it used very nice condition that beklt sits outside uncovered your gunna dry it out i just replaced it in febof2023 thank you
What would be wrong with it if the belt never stop spinning after you let off the engagement pedal i put that same spring on mine today an my belts keep spinning even if the tractor is in neutral any help please
As long as it rotates easily it should work but will not hurt it's performance. Good luck. PERSAVERE.😅😅😅
I just finished replacing all the belts on mine. It sounds like the variator was a little noisy. I'm old and had a hard time replacing the long top belt because I don't have very much strength in my hands I removed one of the idler pullies and was then able to put the speed belt back on it really helped me alot and of course put the idler back on. Most all riding mowers are made by MTD, It appears to me they are always looking for ways to make them harder to work on, my suggestion is to slot the motor mount holes which would help alot. Have fun and above all be safe.😊
Thanks for your input..It is difficult to work on, I too am no spring chick..haha.. good idea about the slotted motor mounts! 👌
Also look at pulley really close for a rock or peace of gravel stuck in it , yes had a zero turn with it and owner had replaced belt twice in a week, I found it and no problem now 😊
Thanks for the feed back..I can see how something jammed in there could go un-noticed.. if can happen it will.. right? Agains thanks for the reply.
I like your idea about raising the mower.. Floor jack, jack stands and ramps. Anyway, I am surprised these mowers work at all. They are just a bunch of springs, and belts that are designed to rub and lose friction to start moving and stop and its all held together by chewing gum and paper clips. My 2008 TB Bronco makes a Knocking noise when you start to enguage the drive belt(s) and I have no idea which contraption is making the noise... I looked underneath and there are so many belts and pulleys holding the thing together, I am just surprised it has worked as long as it has without any problems. i did figure out which belts are for the drive propultion by pressing the accelerator and watching underneath.. But So far I cannot tell what the problem is.. Oh well.. I will have to monitor it... See if it gets worse..
I know sound like you may need to jack yours to see whats going .. but take care...and use jackstands ..take the wheels off ..safety safety safety.. nothing worth get hurt over.. use OEM belts...don't just go by the part number.. they are NOT the same.. 2008..haha.. love it... keep it going and don't let it wup ya..
Rusty ones will not shift or change speed, remove and sand it tell free Keep out of the weather 😊😊😊
I know why your belt is getting shredded,.if you look at the idler pulley support for the upper triangle routed belt, the back of the lower drive belt is rubbing against the idler pulley support bracket below your pulley. I ground a relief notch into the support bracket about 1/4 to 5/16 in deep enough to clear the belt and haven't had any further issues shredding belts. Your video helped me figure out an issue I was having with the speed pedal, I may have forgot to reinstall that spring that you were talking about. I think I may have seen something fall out from under the mower when I test drove it. I will check it out in the morning and hope that's what it was. Now if I can just find that damn thing in my yard. Wish me luck!
I believe you are right, you can see it rub on the bracket, so just cut a small amount to clear the vibrating belt, also check all the other pulleys for burs
I’m having the same problem eating belts! I even had the same missing spring you had… just received my new idler spring and OME belt …will put everything together for a test run tomorrow. Here’s a easy short cut putting the belts around the variable pulley … my (2011 bronco) has (2 bolts on the outside frame) 1/2” bolts heads that when taken out (bolts hold the variable pulley in place) the belts slip on in seconds. 😊
Thanks, let me know how it goes.. I have been running 3 seasons now since I made the video.. both drive belts are in good shape.. I wish you luck..
Dumbest belt setup. Engineers... pft.
Thanks for taking the time to put this video together! You did an outstanding job getting your point across. Very informative. My situation is the same as yours. I replaced the belt at first with what is supposed to be an OEM made by sunbelt at Lowes. The tractor would creep when you let off the accelerator. Worked fine other than that. So I ordered an actual MTD Club Cadet and replaced the belt and all is fine except for the sloppy belt just like in this video. I matched up the new oem belt with the Lowes belt and found it to be about 1.5mm thinner in the height of the belt. It made all the difference in the world. In my best guess, is that the 1.5 mm adds 3mm per pulley times 4 pullies is 12mm or approximately 1/2" which makes the new belt actually 1/2" longer in theory and that was all it needed to stop the creeping. Adjusting the linkage on the go pedal had no effect on the creeping whatsoever. It is still on the jack stands and now out of gas until tomorrow. My question is did loading up the transaxle under normal riding conditions correct the slop in the belt. My tractor is a 2011 model that has been garage kept and is still in good condition, is just now getting all the belts replaced for the very first time. I was all excited to have all new belts only to have to rack my brains and try different routings for the belt until I watched a few videos, and everyone was saying you have to buy oem or some weird things will happen to the drive. It appears they were all right! Oh and btw, my spring was missing also and as big as it is, I don't know how I could have missed it in the yard. Being as you are the 4th person I've heard that lost their spring as well which leaves me to believe it was never installed as it worked perfect without it.
Reply...yes. yes .. exactly... we won't make that mistake again.. I assumed it was the correct belt because the part number matched.. ass u me.. I am ashamed to say.. I bought 2 belts from the same place.. not thinking it was the wrong belt.. it never occured to me.. genuine OEM MTD for me.. you can get away with a clone sometimes.. but when it bites it bites hard. Also.. I now keep a log on any thing I'm working on.. because we all forget.. take care and thanks for your input.. and sorry the delayed response.. one more thing.. it's been almost 3 seasons since I made that video and my belts OEM are holding up well... even with the oscillation..
@@zippiezoo9319 yes, all is well. Thanks for the 3 year update. I also might add that running it with the tight belt would damn near throw me off of it when taking off. It took off like a top fuel dragster! I clocked it at 22mph on the street in front of my house! Never again will I make that mistake. Thanks for your reply.
@@zippiezoo9319 The worst thing is arthur in my hands, and my knees so getting up and down is also an issue. Good luck and what the old Indian said to Josie PERSEVERE.
Hi what is that spring called? Thanks David.
It's in the manual.. on the exploded parts sheet.. Description 'Spring Tension' part#732-04764.. it doesn't have a name in the manual..just a description. Refer.#20 Transmission...just curious, did you loose yours also?.. I put a couple of cable ties on mine and it's worked fine for a couple years now.. good luck!
The best video yet on this subject. I have transmission belt original requirements 5/8x90.8". When new belt is installed it seems to be jus a hair to small. Adjusting idler bracket assembly original belt size is too small... staring riding mower engine mower moves forward or reverse depend in which gear mower is. That is why I think if belt would be just little longer mower would not move because there would be more slack on the belt until speed pedal is pressed. What do you think? Thank you in advance for your opinion and your suggestion.
Only oem belts will work
After changing belts on my Troybuilt bronco it wants too Continue moving without foot on throddle pedal……any suggestions
This just happened with my Troybilt bronco, what did you wind up doing to resolve the problem?
Mine doing the same even drive off in neutral
You need oem belts
Thanks so much for this video. I've been looking all day to try to find a video that show me where the same spring go to the lawn on my my Troy-Bilt. Your your video was clear, precise, and very clear. This allowed me to determine where the spring go. Thanks again!
Try using a cable tie on each end to prevent it coming off again and thanks for the feedback.
@@zippiezoo9319 Great idea ! Thanks
My belt was rubbing against the head of a bolt and I ended up putting a longer bolt with a spacer around it. It worked, but I have to change out the plastic spacer every couple years bc it eventually wears it down to where it would rub on the bolt threads.
Thanks for the feedback.. very little tolerance and add belt oscillation .. I used a belt that was just slightly narrower than the oem MTD belt and it would shred it.. went back to MTD belt and am on season 3 and it still looks good.. thanks again
I have done the same thing with mine, but it still won't move. I hope the tranny didn't break !
The belt appeared to run into the idler spring !
Yes it does.. too close.. but it has worked like this for 2 years now...the belt still looks good.. the problem turned out to be a aftermarket belt..the oem belt (in the video) albeit next to the idler spring works fine.. I thought it was the problem too.. good eyes and thanks for your comment.. I learned a rookie lesson the hard way.. go with OEM belts! It's not worth headache..later.
I discovered this problem on my Troy-Bilt mower when I bought it brand new the problem is one of the keeper pin bolts is too short and the belt actually rides on the hex head I replaced it with a longer Bolt and sleeved it so that it rides on the smooth part I don't know why dealers haven't discovered this
Exactly!
Rusty pulley is a problem Keep them in out of weather will solve 95% of problems
Yes, I do now..and sorry about the 8mo. delay. I missed your comment..I cleaned all the rust off with a wire brush and have been running great for 2.5 mowing seasons without trouble..I just jinxed myself..knock on wood!! Thanks for the input..
Spring get weak and rusty Check adjustment on panel also
Read the manual
My lower drive belt is arranged like ours, but on mine there is a ~1/4" pin that the slack side of the drive belt goes around. It takes out some of the oscillation. Mine is located across from the belt tensioner assembly. Some models use a removable pin. Could yours have fallen out?
Thx Ron, Its been doing fine now for 2 seasons with the oscillations..checked the belts a couple of weeks ago and they look like new.. but I am going to take another look to see if I can see where there might have been a pin.. Appreciate the input..
Where'd does the skinny spring connect
Great video. Very thorough!
Much appreciated Southside!😁👍
The belt is rubbing the upper tensioner pulley bracket.u can hear and see back side of belt shaving off.
I was wondering if you, or if you know of, anyone that has a video of what to take off to route the belt through the middle pulleys? The bracket is blocking simply routing it through and I dont know what I need to take off to get the belt through the middle pulleys.
I dont know of a video.. but I am familiar with what has to be done on this model..Its not difficult..You remove the center stud that goes through the rear pulley..this will allow you to swing the bracket out of the way.. Again as i remember it's been a year ago..it was pretty easy..good luck.
@@zippiezoo9319 Thank you for reply. Ill try later.
i know this comment is from last year but this video is probably what you are looking for. i had to do what was recommended to get the pully off kzread.info/dash/bejne/lnWbra1qoq65Yrw.html
I hear your accent I'm gonna say your from upstate sc
What accent? Haha... very close...lower NC.
@@zippiezoo9319 haha I must have been drunk cussing my damn pos troy bilt drive belt looking up vids for answers bc I dont remember making this comment lol but man this pos is pissing me off my broncoe either eats them up or just now dead mid lawn mow I have a 90" long 5/8" wide belt. What size does your drive belt and deck belt run bc troy bilt told me 96.5" x 1/2" and wasn't even close for deck so they don't even know currently I have a 90x5/8 on drive and 1/2 x 107" deck belt (deck belt is close but no cigar as when I lift to level 5 it runs the blade so to short lol but that's the longest lowes or tractor supply has
Where'd you find those diagrams?
Just saw this... sorry for the late reply.. the parts blow up is from the owners manual..If you dont have it you can download it from Troybilt web site. the routing diagram, I will have to go back and find.. this was my first video.. I should have put this in the description.. Thanks for watching.. if I find the other I will reply to this thread..
That is not the spring for that mower
Are you sure? because it's the part# from the original owners manual plus it's OEM part from MTD who makes the mower..and its been working like a charm for a over year now..
The belt is routed wrong I think. It needs to route around the variable speed puppy the other way. You may want to recheck it.
No, my main problem besides a missing spring was the use of a third party belt (that had correct part # by the way). The third party belt was the same length but was 1/8" narrower which caused it to ride too deep in the variable speed pulley where it was chewed up by burrs. After which I replaced with a OEM MTD belt.. runs like a charm.. thanks for your input!
I do some lawn tractor work on the side. I just finished a belt replacement on a Craftsman T1400, Model 247-203-732. The layout looks identity to your machine. I used belt 954-0467A as the engine to variable drive, and 954-04208A as the variable drive to transaxle. I think these are the same belts. I have never done this job before. I had the deck off, but not the wheels. Some things I learned: (1) Getting the belts off the variable drive was a bear. Why? I am not sure. But, I think the key was to work with two hands, one of which was moving the sliding sheave up and down, in order to get the belt past the frame at the rear. The transaxle one came off pretty quickly and easy. I had removed the nut off the transaxle drive pulley, slid the pulley to the side. I used a ratchet strap to pull the tension idler arm creating slack in the belt. I ran the strap off to the right side the the machine, along the edge and across the back, finding a place to hook. I was going to take the spring off, but was concerned it would be difficult to get reattached. It seemed very tight, so chose not to remove the tension spring. The lower belt was much more difficult to get off the variable drive. I watched many videos and many had three bolts holding a support bracket for the variable drive pulley assembly. This machine does not work that way. I think the pulley is held in place with three bolts. I found them, but saw access was very difficult. I think they had 5/16" heads. Getting the lower belt off the variable pulley proved to be the most challenging. The belt on this machine was the original (I think it is a 2013 model, used about 35 hours per season). It had chunks missing. I could not use a belt section with missing pieces. I think the key was to work with two hands, sliding the variable section of the pulley up and down. The new belt slide in easily. This led me to think the old one was frayed, making its cross section bigger and more difficult to get through the tight clearances. Initially, I put the new one in wrong and had to take it out. Ten seconds, and I had it out! This is far, far less time than the old one. In hindsight, I wish I would have just cut the old one to get it out. I initially ran the belt wrong through the two idlers. Yes, one of them has to be taken out, snaking the belt into postion, then replacing the idler. I think it was the idler closest to the front of the tractor. Even when the belt is fully installed, it is not tensioned, with or without the parking brake. Do not be alarmed at this! I spent much time, thinking I had something wrong. But, when running, it works well. Most of the videos show removal of the nut on the transaxle pulley has access from the top. This model does not have access, the support bar is blocking access. Come in the left side of the machine, in front of the wheel with a 7/8" box end wrench. Put a screw driver through the hole in the pulley to hold in place. The nut came off easily despite not having good access. Some comments, "I will not buy a Troy." This same machine is branded differently. For example, Cut Cadet machine is LXT1040. I think it is identical. So, at least Troy, Craftsman and Cub Cadet are same, differently branded. Perhaps there is a Yardmaster, Yardman, and others that are identical. I think the manufacturer of all of them is MTD. This is why the OEM belts are labeled MTD. I agree with others in this thread - buy MTD belts, not those from a local auto supply house. Also, I have learned from the videos that there are many lawn tractors with this variable sheave ground speed control design. To be sure, there are many variations, so buy belts for the specific model. All are not exactly the same, even though they are the same in principle. This is probably not a job for the casual homeowner with few tools, and little mechanical repair experience. P.S. I wish I had another job just like this one to do now, while it is fresh in mind!
Agree.. the only reason I had the wheels off was for safety when I was under the tractor while it was running with transmission engaged (for video). Thanks for your input.. The learning curve is the worst.. Could have saved lots of headache by just buying MTD belts like you said.. hope this thread helps others.
Nice video, I have the same problem with my Bronco, I need to order the spring, Can you please tell me whats the spring name to order the right one? Thanks for your help
The spring part# is 732-04764 Spring Extension, .56 OD x 12.05 (source: my owners manual) recommend you verify using your manual.. just in case.. good luck.. note: maybe use a cable tie on each end when installing.. lost springs seems to be pretty prevalent..
Where did you get that diagram from?
Get back with you tomorrow.. I'll try and post it here or maybe the link.
I added the links in the description. Hope that helps,
Yes No Belts on an Electric mover
Well.. I have to use what I have..for now anyway seasons about over.. and it's gone pretty well this year.. thanks for feedback
noticed 2 things: Your variable speed pulley is made different then mine. I have a shaft with bearings inside, no edge on the inside for the belt to hit. Where is your variable speed pulley mounted?? Mine has a long through bolt that goes through the transaxle. Yours looks like it's mounted elsewhere. Look at that Teryl video I referenced in your other video and you will see. BTW: That whole assembly is pretty pricey at over $200. there are Chinese knockoffs on fleabay, much cheaper, but I don't know how well they will work.
Its mounted to the chassis in the back under the seat.. it tore the fabric cover of the non OEM belt.. it was a bear to figure out .. the OEM mtd belt didnt touch the edge and has been doing fine this season..knock on wood..
I apologize for the crazy late response.. but thanks for sharing that.. they must have changed the design... since I installed the oem genuine mtd belt.. it no longer touches the lip and burrs. So far so good..thx again!
So I have a 2000 MTD Yard machine with the exact same system of variable pulleys. Still works great. I only replaced the drive belts once so far. Lots of hard use. Taryl has great videos on changing those belts. He just turns the tractor on its side. You need to remove the variable pulley assembly and clean and lube it. Then install correctly with all washers in right place. Also. No substitutions on belt brands. Get official OEM belts. Taryl used 1 Rotary and one other brand. Might work, but spend the money on OEM. That spring is different on my MTD, much tighter, I never lost it. Even though Troy Bilt is made in the same factory in Ohio as MTD (as is Craftsman, and MANY others) there are differences in springs etc. Cool video, neat to see the belts in operation. Variable pulley operates just like a CVT or a snowmobile. kzread.info/dash/bejne/e6mFx7CDp7KYqqg.html Here is Taryl's video. Look past the goofiness, He knows his stuff.
That's encouraging... good advise I think.. because the no compromise on the belt rule bit me..I bought 2 kevlar belts using the part number..and that was the problem thinking no way 2 belts would be bad..welp.. I wont make that mistake again.. genuine mtd ..for belts.. Taril was right.. I will subscribe and thx for feedback.
Hi, I don't know if you find the problem But here I'm speaking by experience There is a belt divider it eats up the inside the belt immediately if it's too short or worn out I just recently had my third fix two husky bronco, and last was Troy bilt,and it's the some problems But this time I made a video and its included in the video hope this helps
I just inspected both belts just this week and they looked like new actually so my problem is resolved but by belt divider do you mean the variable speed pulley.. because that was my problem and it indeed was eating the inside the belt like you said.. anyway.. I will check out your video and thanks for your help.
zoo ok by looking at your video at owners manual, it shows there its says Keeper Pins, but I call it divider , lol
zoom on the other part of your video I think there's # 45 and 25 above those there is the drive belt and a number but i can't see what's that numbers so right between those bottom numbers and the top one the keeper pins its located in there
@@IshMotorparts got ya.. I'll definitely check that out and reply back .. good night
The fun part is trying to fine parts. he hee There no number on em Way they got there junk listed, make it even harder , Way i get the right parts most of the time is, cause i measure every thing on it ~ on belts i get them a inch or 2 shorter, cause there stretched
Part numbers are in your Owners Manual.
There is another issue the belts must be exact getting them shorter will really hose thinhs up!!!!!!!!!!
@@jamesgeorge1709 There none thing about sizes of belts in? the Owners Manual
The Craftsman T140 got the same junky set up! I 'am having a belt started jumping the idler pulley guard, on the transmission belt. and it keep Jumping the dam pully. Idk how in the world it can jump threw the pully guard but it does. AND A BITCH to get in back threw the pully guard! Every thing else is correct. HOW IT JUMPS THREW THE PULLY GUARD is a Mystery ! 😡 The spring on it is super strong! The belt guard is so close to the pully it can't get threw it. How it does? is beyond me? Might be the belt is stretching > who knows? might be the idler pully bearing heating up, to stretch the belt out to. WHO KNOWS ?
The Craftsman T140 got the same junk setup. Idk how in the world ! it can jumps threw the belt guard on the idler pulley~ but it does. and a royal pain to stick threw to the idler pully on the transmission belt , They put lock bolt on the dam nuts. You have to beak them off ~ Plus idk why its doing this for? Its got a belt guard on the idler pully . Every time it want move, i take the battery out and it jumped the dam pully! 😡 Every thing else looks correct.
Did you ever find the cause? I’m having the same issue
@@harleysmith3830 I just parked it for now. I think its the drive belt to the transmission idler pulley. Lip not over lapping far enough and over shoots the idler pulley > THAT WHAT I THINK IT IS? The idler pulley arm could be bent to? NEEDS A STRONGER ARM. I think a high raise idler pulley the same size would work. I don't know right YET FOR SURE? If you fine a fix let me know! BUT THAT MY GUESS Cheers buddy
Variable drive pulley bearings
That's what I thought too.. but it was cheap belts kevlar too.. plus a missing idler arm spring but mainly the belts.. the v was a bit deeper than the OEM genuine MTD.. I didnt notice it.. the crappy belts had the correct part # but it wasnt exact width or depth.. diameter was spot on.. thanks for input...
If its burnt through in one spot , the stalled belt , is getting eaten by the engine drive pulley . Did it get stuck in the guides up front ? The replacement belt is supposed to be a Kevlar wrapped belt , and they are not so deep . If you used an industrial 5/8" x length belt , they are cheaper , but are too thick to go through the guides ? Too many springs will also kill it . I think if you use an industrial type 5/8 belt , its also too thick to climb in the variable speed pulley . Also an industrial 5/8 belt , is too thick to clear in the tensioner , and will rub on the bracket arm , and stall . Hope I didnt give you a headache .
No, actually you are on target.. the non oem belts had a slightly deeper V only by fraction of an inch, maybe 1/8" or less and going too deep in the pulley were they were eat up by machine burrs.. I think I show this on one of my other vids. It's doing fine so far this year with the genuine mtd belts.. But it was a royal pain figuring it out. I will not forget this lesson.. and thanks for your input..wish I had this last season. Take care.
Which is the size of the belt I been struggling trying to find it!
On the model shown for this video.. it has two belts for the drive, a lower and upper and of course the deck belt.. upper belt 954-04208 40.9 poly and the lower 954-0467A 90.93 poly (from the manual). My lesson learned is to not cheap out, bite the bullit and buy oem belts.. the ones I buy now says genuine MTD part.. especially mower belts. You can get away with cheaper on some things but not mower belts. Sorry for rant.. Just checked my belts yesterday and they look good so far.