whats the stencil made out of? you could maybe use magnets instead of loud air to pull it down! this could be a completely mechanical build instead. love this design!
@jluvs2ride10 күн бұрын
I saw some discussion that TAP moves the nozzle far enough forward that you can't use a nozzle cleaner but apparently you don't have this problem. I installed the Chaotic Labs CNC TAP and using TAP, a clean nozzle is a must. Did you have to make special adjustments to use your nozzle cleaner with TAP
@scheffield10 күн бұрын
@@jluvs2ride yes, I had to move the bed forward. But I found there is enough travel to cover the bed and hit the cleaner.
@jluvs2ride10 күн бұрын
@@scheffield I was hoping to avoid shifting the bed.
@jluvs2ride10 күн бұрын
@@scheffield I found that the Chaotic Labs CNC TAP affects the y offset very minimally. I printed the parts, updated my config and it works very well. Thanks!
@jluvs2ride8 күн бұрын
And now I've found that the wiper hits the toolhead during the bed mesh sequence. I only found out when I printed a gridfinity base that used most of the bed.
@HReality22 күн бұрын
Installed and love the action.. is there a way to setup a check and preheat before the operation? Just did a clean rebuild of my 2.4 and would expect it to be able to operate independently. Also, whats your print_start look like?
@scheffield22 күн бұрын
@@HReality can't look right now but it should be documented on the GitHub page.
@user-gk2ip3sh2c23 күн бұрын
Increase the thickness of your "ptfe_tube_cutter" from 10.1mm to 12.1mm and you can cut the tube to the desired length accurately and evenly without a caliper
@eaglewitharifle29 күн бұрын
Does your filament not start oozing when reheating after cooldown?
@eraldylliАй бұрын
I need to stop watching videos how to upgrade/fix Vorons and finally fix my own Trident's tool head. This was entertaining, well done. Would you mind sharing the nozzle cleaner you designed? It looked quite slick.
@winandd8649Ай бұрын
@3:20 I have to disagree; your nozzle has to be clean, otherwise ooze is offsetting you measurement. For me a 3d-touch or clicky probe is a prefered method
@winandd8649Ай бұрын
@0:02 Excuses my bad english, but what kind of brush did he have before.. a "broth brush"?
@scheffieldАй бұрын
@@winandd8649 Brass brush like www.amazon.com/Curved-Masonry-Bristle-Cleaning-Welding/dp/B08726BW77
@winandd8649Ай бұрын
@@scheffield Ah yes of course! thanks!
@powersv2Ай бұрын
Doing this upgrade today.
@timha4102Ай бұрын
I got a similar piece of PEEK from eBay for 1-2€. This is a good alternative if you don‘t want to use PTFE.
@TheChalansillo2 ай бұрын
Sorry for this question but, how do you cut the stencils so nice? , normally when I order one they are quite big like an A5 or something like that, when I cut them they actually bend a bit even with very sharp scissors. Cheers!
@telefon7211 күн бұрын
JLCPCB has an option for custom size stencils
@Alterproll2 ай бұрын
Great design, thanks for sharing!
@TheNinsaa2 ай бұрын
i have installed the mod and it worked perfectly untill I printed basically a full bed of prints, and it started colliding with the printhead at the rear while printing, resulting in parts failing due to the bumping, and the ptfe holder breaking. I had to mount the bed further front to even get the printhead over the PTFE in the first place, so of the 350Y Travel i have about 330 left (5mm due to mounting the bed further front, and about 15mm for printhead clearance). I think it is due to my combination of vorons tap (a CNC version of it rather) and the stealthburner. Otherwise this workes like a charm, is easy to print, and the bumpers are a nice and welcome addition!
@andriusanryy51652 ай бұрын
New follower here! Thank you for sharing, i will update my two vorons later. Regards
@landonivy6752 ай бұрын
sell me one? haha
@hisp66662 ай бұрын
it's a cool thing, but I'm wondering what about repeatability? when you need to apply paste on several identical boards. do I need to adjust the stencil every time? is it possible to add traforet retainers? to set up and pin it once.
@TannerCh2 ай бұрын
This is fantastic! Very cool process, and thank you for the update!
@ProtonOne113 ай бұрын
It's a pretty nice design idea. But for my purpose, i'd probably do a few things differently. First, the size. I'd probably make it large enough for at least a "Euro Size" PCB. Thats 100x160mm. They might not be that common of a size anymore, but back when i started with electronics, that was the go-to size for a lot of projects, and a lot of precut PCBs came in that size. For the fan, i'd probably just go with an off the shelf 12VDC impeller fan. Put two 4mm banana sockets on the base, and hook up my lab powersupply to the fan to control the speed. With all the added electronics you need to drive that brushless motor, i think i can buy a pretty powerful impeller fan and reduce the complexity and required assembly by a lot. And since we usually put at least two alignment holes (2.05mm hole, with +0.1/-0.0mm tolerance) for our 2.0mm alignment pins we use on test and programming fixtures in the PCB, i'd use these holes and some 2.0mm dowel pins to quickly align the PCB and stencils to eachother.
@Levisgil473 ай бұрын
Hello, What type of bucket do you use with your purge cleanner ?
@samuelwilli1652 ай бұрын
Original from decontaminatoe mod
@powersv24 ай бұрын
seems like since I already have the decontaminator , i can add this then, finally go stealth burner and tap.
@PattysLab4 ай бұрын
dude youre a hero!
@joshcarter-com4 ай бұрын
Wonderful! I have my Voron 2.4 in service but I haven’t installed the nozzle cleaner yet. I’ll give this a shot instead of the brass brush. In the meantime I’ve just been cleaning the nozzle by hand and starting the print with a long purge line.
@sabahoudini4 ай бұрын
You can easily make the voron print circles around the bambu. Print the monolith 4WD gantry with an archetype toolhead.
@localhost29334 ай бұрын
Hi Max, I don't know if it's just me, but when I put the lid on the lifter, the small curves don't fit directly into the holes. I had to adjust this, otherwise the whole thing jams when you press the 2 parts into each other
@vajrakilla91242 ай бұрын
I see you wrote this a few months ago. I had the same problem this week, but after giving the small curves a light sand, it fit very well. The holes for the M3 screws seem to keep it aligned, so even if you sand too much off or unevenly, it should remain mostly square to itself. Hope this helps!
@localhost29332 ай бұрын
@@vajrakilla9124 Hello, i have redesigned the Part, fits now perfectly
@konturgestalter4 ай бұрын
How did you get these stencils so that they perfectly fit the size of the device
@chpoit4 ай бұрын
I don't know if I would use ptfe for this, it might offgas some stuff after being heated by the nozzle (150 c is probably fine, but eh)
@SirasPK4 ай бұрын
genius. i like it
@ashleywhitehead37104 ай бұрын
Needing to cool the nozzel before cleaning adds time to the startup sequence unnecessarily. Better off using some silicon fuel tubing instead of the ptfe tube. Might not be as durable though. I would personally put the effort into finding some silicon sheet and make one of those designs. They work better, are more durable and can be built low profile for 2.4's.
@j1ndz4 ай бұрын
Oof, have been using this but just recently my beacon probe collided with the print and broke the printed part. Seems like I will need to avoid printing anything close to the edge of the rear of the bed.
@scheffield4 ай бұрын
Oh really! For me there is very little chance of that happening. Wonder what your setup is. Do you have any recommendations to improve the setup?
@j1ndz4 ай бұрын
@@scheffield Are you using a beacon as well? I was going to edit the design so that the scrubber sits a few mm lower. The beacon PCB extends out pretty far back on my setup and is only about 3mm above the nozzle.
@user-zg8tr9kb8s4 ай бұрын
great work and well documented, thanks for that! Could it be that you have forgotten the variable_bucket_start: and variable_bucket_pos: in the clean_nozzle.cfg? And in Line 103 it should be MACRO=clean_nozzle instead of MACRO=clean_nozzle_2?
@killercop20064 ай бұрын
I'm also getting errors on the value "bucket_pos", I can't find it in the .cfg file or where to change this. Probably I misread something because in the cfg file there it says for the Y position thats its assumed 0 but with my printer it is 350.
@gremlin604 ай бұрын
i got a question for you.. i got a bambulab a1 mini . after maby 3 prints the print bed was to low on the left side. i did auto bed leveling over and over but did not help. i contacted bambulab and they gave me a guide how to manual level the bed. if i have to level it manual, then what is the auto bed leveling doing? is it just moving to make it look like it is auto leveling?
@1982jmjm4 ай бұрын
i got Error evaluating 'gcode_macro clean_nozzle:gcode': jinja2.exceptions.UndefinedError: 'bucket_start' is undefined i thing something is missing in de marco
@Antoz11034 ай бұрын
How are u able to get that far back with the Toolhead. I have the Brush too but i barely reach the front of the Brush so it does not clean that well. What have i todo?
@Akira.Nibbai4 ай бұрын
Move your bed forward to give you more room.
@hasserecht36784 ай бұрын
Bambu owners after two years "man that thing is annoying. It flings the poop everywhere when printing PETG". Voron owners be like "allright ... let's copy that sucker" 😂.
@antonkukoba33784 ай бұрын
I didn't understand how this cleaner helps. Ok you've pushed some filament, cooled the nozzle, removed the filament. But as soon as you you heat it up again some of the filament will go down the nozzle just because of the gravity. And you actually need to clean the nozzle the second before it starts printing, otherwise is dirty again.
@TexZeTech4 ай бұрын
Filament change?
@rocketboyjv54744 ай бұрын
I agree. The whole routine is kinda stupid but the design is maybe promising.
@oOWaschBaerOo4 күн бұрын
no its not stupid ... this is meant to clean the nozzle for probing with nozzle probes like tap, before the print right after probing and meshing it dosent matter anymore cause you print a purge anyways that gets rid of filament
@RayLenses4 ай бұрын
I did similar for color print nozzle cleaner I also used PTFE tube kzread.infoPKLXPxzxEu4
@aeiounix4 ай бұрын
Brass brush is not recommended for what kind of nozzle?
@oscarvogel21404 ай бұрын
Plated or coated nozzles.
@netpackrat4 ай бұрын
I have the Decontaminator setup on my LDO V2.4 300, and I rarely use it because it seems to cause as many problems with bits of plastic stuck to the nozzle as it fixes. It was worth adding for the sheet stops alone though. I have not found the screws to be prone to bending, however I printed the parts out of PC carbon fiber, and I turned the screws in as far as they would go and still have the heads catch the sheet, so I don't have screw heads protruding above the level of the sheet. Looks like you used an LDO kit... LDO uses a slightly thicker aluminum bed than the standard Voron spec calls for, so they have a modified version of the Decontaminator parts with the sheet stop mounts raised in height to match. If you are using the original version of the printed parts, then this could be why you have had issues with the screws bending, since they would be protruding out from the parts more, and thus be more prone to bend. IIRC there is a link to the modified parts on LDO's printed parts guide. However there is another issue with the LDO modified parts. They raised the height of the sheet stops, but they don't appear to have raised the height of the brass brush to match. This leads to the brush being essentially level with the bed, so you have to be pretty careful when setting the height and Y position of the nozzle when it wipes (depending on what hot end you are using), to ensure that you don't contact one of the sheet stop screws or even the bed. With the wide nozzles used by the Revo hot end, I had a pretty narrow envelope in which it could wipe; this might not be the case with other hot ends.
@jb3d2474 ай бұрын
This is awesome! Thank you for sharing!
@SergeiSugaroverdoseShuykov4 ай бұрын
Using PTFE as something which has direct contact with surface heated to more than 200 degrees Celsius is pretty bad idea
@siddhartheaswar9594 ай бұрын
PTFE. Can withstand 250 degrees Celsius before breaking down. Besides, it only touches the nozzle for around 3 seconds max per nozzle cleaning. Definitely not enough for the ptfe to heat up to that high of a temperature
@username97744 ай бұрын
it cools down before so it can properly break the filament off
@SergeiSugaroverdoseShuykov4 ай бұрын
@@siddhartheaswar959 it can withstand even more, yet it’s starts to degrade and free up poison even before 200c
@xiar55464 ай бұрын
The hotend is cooled to either 150c or room temp first. And in the Bambu lab printers it doesn’t even cool down first during filament changes and swipes across the ptfe tube. The momentary contact with the tube is no where near enough time for it to heat up anything close to temps for it to start breaking down.
@timha41024 ай бұрын
@@SergeiSugaroverdoseShuykov Why do people put it in frying pans then?
@qwertyboguss4 ай бұрын
Nice solution and thanks for sharing the files and the process. I've saved this for later when I'm going to implement it on my v2.4r2
@2EOGIY4 ай бұрын
Interesting. You could upgrade it to have multiple hooks with tubes printed out, just in case one breaks out over time. In other words, make a brush made of rolls. And to be fancy, every single hook would be held on a magnet sandwiched between magnets, and a couple of spare hooks would be clipped on magnets behind the purge bucket.
@snympi4 ай бұрын
Excellent - thanks for sharing.
@C6501014 ай бұрын
Cool, but i am guessing that over time the flex part will fail. Why not tpu for the flex?
@condorman62934 ай бұрын
I'd also consider taking the Bambu approach and pressing the nozzle into the bed after the wipe.
@scheffield4 ай бұрын
That's a good one. Might add that to the macro.
@condorman62934 ай бұрын
@@scheffield might need a flexible part of the bed, though. Maybe if the bed hangs off a little? Or cut an L shape into the bed as well?
@username97744 ай бұрын
@@scheffield also check before printing that the bed is bent enough. must be 1 mm deeper in the middle
@xIsouLcruSHca4 ай бұрын
Great design! Outro song?
@scheffield4 ай бұрын
it's CUPID by Adelyn Paik
@sebby0074 ай бұрын
Looks great. My only concern would be that the print will eventually snap. Wouldn't it make sense to have it barely touch the ptfe tube? I'm building a voron and I guess I'll give this a shot rather than the brush. Lieben Gruß :)
@scheffield4 ай бұрын
Good question. I don't know. However, the Bambu Lab version is holding up well. I guess we will see :)
@francisgravel65934 ай бұрын
Nice! The only thing is (for a V2.4) that you can't use is in the middle of a print. You can hit a part while moving back. This should be installed on the gantry.
@MicheleFattoruso4 ай бұрын
would be great to have this on a trident. there's a real lack of nozzle wipers for the trident compared to the 2.4
Пікірлер
whats the stencil made out of? you could maybe use magnets instead of loud air to pull it down! this could be a completely mechanical build instead. love this design!
I saw some discussion that TAP moves the nozzle far enough forward that you can't use a nozzle cleaner but apparently you don't have this problem. I installed the Chaotic Labs CNC TAP and using TAP, a clean nozzle is a must. Did you have to make special adjustments to use your nozzle cleaner with TAP
@@jluvs2ride yes, I had to move the bed forward. But I found there is enough travel to cover the bed and hit the cleaner.
@@scheffield I was hoping to avoid shifting the bed.
@@scheffield I found that the Chaotic Labs CNC TAP affects the y offset very minimally. I printed the parts, updated my config and it works very well. Thanks!
And now I've found that the wiper hits the toolhead during the bed mesh sequence. I only found out when I printed a gridfinity base that used most of the bed.
Installed and love the action.. is there a way to setup a check and preheat before the operation? Just did a clean rebuild of my 2.4 and would expect it to be able to operate independently. Also, whats your print_start look like?
@@HReality can't look right now but it should be documented on the GitHub page.
Increase the thickness of your "ptfe_tube_cutter" from 10.1mm to 12.1mm and you can cut the tube to the desired length accurately and evenly without a caliper
Does your filament not start oozing when reheating after cooldown?
I need to stop watching videos how to upgrade/fix Vorons and finally fix my own Trident's tool head. This was entertaining, well done. Would you mind sharing the nozzle cleaner you designed? It looked quite slick.
@3:20 I have to disagree; your nozzle has to be clean, otherwise ooze is offsetting you measurement. For me a 3d-touch or clicky probe is a prefered method
@0:02 Excuses my bad english, but what kind of brush did he have before.. a "broth brush"?
@@winandd8649 Brass brush like www.amazon.com/Curved-Masonry-Bristle-Cleaning-Welding/dp/B08726BW77
@@scheffield Ah yes of course! thanks!
Doing this upgrade today.
I got a similar piece of PEEK from eBay for 1-2€. This is a good alternative if you don‘t want to use PTFE.
Sorry for this question but, how do you cut the stencils so nice? , normally when I order one they are quite big like an A5 or something like that, when I cut them they actually bend a bit even with very sharp scissors. Cheers!
JLCPCB has an option for custom size stencils
Great design, thanks for sharing!
i have installed the mod and it worked perfectly untill I printed basically a full bed of prints, and it started colliding with the printhead at the rear while printing, resulting in parts failing due to the bumping, and the ptfe holder breaking. I had to mount the bed further front to even get the printhead over the PTFE in the first place, so of the 350Y Travel i have about 330 left (5mm due to mounting the bed further front, and about 15mm for printhead clearance). I think it is due to my combination of vorons tap (a CNC version of it rather) and the stealthburner. Otherwise this workes like a charm, is easy to print, and the bumpers are a nice and welcome addition!
New follower here! Thank you for sharing, i will update my two vorons later. Regards
sell me one? haha
it's a cool thing, but I'm wondering what about repeatability? when you need to apply paste on several identical boards. do I need to adjust the stencil every time? is it possible to add traforet retainers? to set up and pin it once.
This is fantastic! Very cool process, and thank you for the update!
It's a pretty nice design idea. But for my purpose, i'd probably do a few things differently. First, the size. I'd probably make it large enough for at least a "Euro Size" PCB. Thats 100x160mm. They might not be that common of a size anymore, but back when i started with electronics, that was the go-to size for a lot of projects, and a lot of precut PCBs came in that size. For the fan, i'd probably just go with an off the shelf 12VDC impeller fan. Put two 4mm banana sockets on the base, and hook up my lab powersupply to the fan to control the speed. With all the added electronics you need to drive that brushless motor, i think i can buy a pretty powerful impeller fan and reduce the complexity and required assembly by a lot. And since we usually put at least two alignment holes (2.05mm hole, with +0.1/-0.0mm tolerance) for our 2.0mm alignment pins we use on test and programming fixtures in the PCB, i'd use these holes and some 2.0mm dowel pins to quickly align the PCB and stencils to eachother.
Hello, What type of bucket do you use with your purge cleanner ?
Original from decontaminatoe mod
seems like since I already have the decontaminator , i can add this then, finally go stealth burner and tap.
dude youre a hero!
Wonderful! I have my Voron 2.4 in service but I haven’t installed the nozzle cleaner yet. I’ll give this a shot instead of the brass brush. In the meantime I’ve just been cleaning the nozzle by hand and starting the print with a long purge line.
You can easily make the voron print circles around the bambu. Print the monolith 4WD gantry with an archetype toolhead.
Hi Max, I don't know if it's just me, but when I put the lid on the lifter, the small curves don't fit directly into the holes. I had to adjust this, otherwise the whole thing jams when you press the 2 parts into each other
I see you wrote this a few months ago. I had the same problem this week, but after giving the small curves a light sand, it fit very well. The holes for the M3 screws seem to keep it aligned, so even if you sand too much off or unevenly, it should remain mostly square to itself. Hope this helps!
@@vajrakilla9124 Hello, i have redesigned the Part, fits now perfectly
How did you get these stencils so that they perfectly fit the size of the device
I don't know if I would use ptfe for this, it might offgas some stuff after being heated by the nozzle (150 c is probably fine, but eh)
genius. i like it
Needing to cool the nozzel before cleaning adds time to the startup sequence unnecessarily. Better off using some silicon fuel tubing instead of the ptfe tube. Might not be as durable though. I would personally put the effort into finding some silicon sheet and make one of those designs. They work better, are more durable and can be built low profile for 2.4's.
Oof, have been using this but just recently my beacon probe collided with the print and broke the printed part. Seems like I will need to avoid printing anything close to the edge of the rear of the bed.
Oh really! For me there is very little chance of that happening. Wonder what your setup is. Do you have any recommendations to improve the setup?
@@scheffield Are you using a beacon as well? I was going to edit the design so that the scrubber sits a few mm lower. The beacon PCB extends out pretty far back on my setup and is only about 3mm above the nozzle.
great work and well documented, thanks for that! Could it be that you have forgotten the variable_bucket_start: and variable_bucket_pos: in the clean_nozzle.cfg? And in Line 103 it should be MACRO=clean_nozzle instead of MACRO=clean_nozzle_2?
I'm also getting errors on the value "bucket_pos", I can't find it in the .cfg file or where to change this. Probably I misread something because in the cfg file there it says for the Y position thats its assumed 0 but with my printer it is 350.
i got a question for you.. i got a bambulab a1 mini . after maby 3 prints the print bed was to low on the left side. i did auto bed leveling over and over but did not help. i contacted bambulab and they gave me a guide how to manual level the bed. if i have to level it manual, then what is the auto bed leveling doing? is it just moving to make it look like it is auto leveling?
i got Error evaluating 'gcode_macro clean_nozzle:gcode': jinja2.exceptions.UndefinedError: 'bucket_start' is undefined i thing something is missing in de marco
How are u able to get that far back with the Toolhead. I have the Brush too but i barely reach the front of the Brush so it does not clean that well. What have i todo?
Move your bed forward to give you more room.
Bambu owners after two years "man that thing is annoying. It flings the poop everywhere when printing PETG". Voron owners be like "allright ... let's copy that sucker" 😂.
I didn't understand how this cleaner helps. Ok you've pushed some filament, cooled the nozzle, removed the filament. But as soon as you you heat it up again some of the filament will go down the nozzle just because of the gravity. And you actually need to clean the nozzle the second before it starts printing, otherwise is dirty again.
Filament change?
I agree. The whole routine is kinda stupid but the design is maybe promising.
no its not stupid ... this is meant to clean the nozzle for probing with nozzle probes like tap, before the print right after probing and meshing it dosent matter anymore cause you print a purge anyways that gets rid of filament
I did similar for color print nozzle cleaner I also used PTFE tube kzread.infoPKLXPxzxEu4
Brass brush is not recommended for what kind of nozzle?
Plated or coated nozzles.
I have the Decontaminator setup on my LDO V2.4 300, and I rarely use it because it seems to cause as many problems with bits of plastic stuck to the nozzle as it fixes. It was worth adding for the sheet stops alone though. I have not found the screws to be prone to bending, however I printed the parts out of PC carbon fiber, and I turned the screws in as far as they would go and still have the heads catch the sheet, so I don't have screw heads protruding above the level of the sheet. Looks like you used an LDO kit... LDO uses a slightly thicker aluminum bed than the standard Voron spec calls for, so they have a modified version of the Decontaminator parts with the sheet stop mounts raised in height to match. If you are using the original version of the printed parts, then this could be why you have had issues with the screws bending, since they would be protruding out from the parts more, and thus be more prone to bend. IIRC there is a link to the modified parts on LDO's printed parts guide. However there is another issue with the LDO modified parts. They raised the height of the sheet stops, but they don't appear to have raised the height of the brass brush to match. This leads to the brush being essentially level with the bed, so you have to be pretty careful when setting the height and Y position of the nozzle when it wipes (depending on what hot end you are using), to ensure that you don't contact one of the sheet stop screws or even the bed. With the wide nozzles used by the Revo hot end, I had a pretty narrow envelope in which it could wipe; this might not be the case with other hot ends.
This is awesome! Thank you for sharing!
Using PTFE as something which has direct contact with surface heated to more than 200 degrees Celsius is pretty bad idea
PTFE. Can withstand 250 degrees Celsius before breaking down. Besides, it only touches the nozzle for around 3 seconds max per nozzle cleaning. Definitely not enough for the ptfe to heat up to that high of a temperature
it cools down before so it can properly break the filament off
@@siddhartheaswar959 it can withstand even more, yet it’s starts to degrade and free up poison even before 200c
The hotend is cooled to either 150c or room temp first. And in the Bambu lab printers it doesn’t even cool down first during filament changes and swipes across the ptfe tube. The momentary contact with the tube is no where near enough time for it to heat up anything close to temps for it to start breaking down.
@@SergeiSugaroverdoseShuykov Why do people put it in frying pans then?
Nice solution and thanks for sharing the files and the process. I've saved this for later when I'm going to implement it on my v2.4r2
Interesting. You could upgrade it to have multiple hooks with tubes printed out, just in case one breaks out over time. In other words, make a brush made of rolls. And to be fancy, every single hook would be held on a magnet sandwiched between magnets, and a couple of spare hooks would be clipped on magnets behind the purge bucket.
Excellent - thanks for sharing.
Cool, but i am guessing that over time the flex part will fail. Why not tpu for the flex?
I'd also consider taking the Bambu approach and pressing the nozzle into the bed after the wipe.
That's a good one. Might add that to the macro.
@@scheffield might need a flexible part of the bed, though. Maybe if the bed hangs off a little? Or cut an L shape into the bed as well?
@@scheffield also check before printing that the bed is bent enough. must be 1 mm deeper in the middle
Great design! Outro song?
it's CUPID by Adelyn Paik
Looks great. My only concern would be that the print will eventually snap. Wouldn't it make sense to have it barely touch the ptfe tube? I'm building a voron and I guess I'll give this a shot rather than the brush. Lieben Gruß :)
Good question. I don't know. However, the Bambu Lab version is holding up well. I guess we will see :)
Nice! The only thing is (for a V2.4) that you can't use is in the middle of a print. You can hit a part while moving back. This should be installed on the gantry.
would be great to have this on a trident. there's a real lack of nozzle wipers for the trident compared to the 2.4