Hello and welcome to the shop! My name is Travis and I've been building cars since before I could drive. I have always been fascinated with machinery and anything mechanical. Having grown up around people who have embodied true craftsmanship I have always aspired to learn and do more with my own two hands. If you hate paying someone else to work on your stuff and would rather figure out how it works and fix it yourself then your in the right spot. This is a place where I rebuild cars, engines, machinery and the inevitable odd job around the workshop. If you want to see how a regular DIY car enthusiast does things in his own home shop than please consider subscribing. Its my desire to showcase how a normal car guy like myself can best emulate the true professionals in this industry.
I hope you enjoy watching this content as much as I enjoy creating it for you!
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Very nice vid! Have total confidence now in knocking out my valve spring R2. Thanks!
Great video, i will be doing the same thing with my TYM 474 cab
I've been eyeing the TYM's myself! congrats on your tractor
dont recognise that type of valve spring tool ? where do you get one of those
Thank You! First one I found to show measurements
What is this? Dry ice? 4:09
Sure is!
Can the check valve cause the compressor to not reach full preasure ?
It can, but it could also be a leak at the unloader valve, the pipe feeding the valves or tank or a weak and worn out pump. Just depends
That's heartbreaking. Takes the wind out of your sails
All part of the process
What primer/paint is used on the bare metal
All the information is listed in the description
@@hcr-motorworks absolute legend thank you. So epoxy. Seam sealer. Epoxy then raptor. Do you have to scotch/key the surface in between the coats. Ready fpr the raptor?
@sabz_bhp not if it's within the 7 days cure time window. I usually give 24-48hrs between sets to ensure adequate flash times but not full cure. If you go beyond the 7 days of epoxy curing before you get a chance to top coat it then yes you'll need to scuff it before the next coat.
Your lucky I've done 2 different diffs and have the same problem with the new bearings the original shims will not go in TOO TIGHT. Can't use FSM for the numbers on the case and pinion no longer exist.
it truly is an unfortunate task don't do it yourself if you really have to, pay for someone else to do it
What type of wire wheel was that?
Link should be in the description, thanks for watching
Was the window weld a recommended best practice? I’ll be reinstalling my front and rear soon on my 260z.
If your the one installing it, I'd use it especially if you've got the precision seals. The vintage rubber ones supposedly fit a bit better in the corners but yea I use it either way.
I have a 33 gal husky oilless and it builds pressure but takes 15 min to get to 75 out of 150 lbs. Any ideas on what's causing that?
Could be a leak from the compressor to the tank or unloader valve. Spray soapy water on every connecting to search for leaks. That's way too long to be running on such a small sized tank. Compressor may be shot if theres no leaks found.
I can tell your not a fan of John Deere, but take heart in the fact that you have an orange Yanmar in JD green. Can't believe that was left out to weather with less than 100 on the clock.
Does any one know if a 280zx 5speed bolt on to 280z???
It should bolt up no problem yea. Just a matter of matching the proper clutch collar, flywheel and such after the fact.
Great video. Love the detail and the quality camera shots. Subscribed. Looking forward to future videos.
Your attention to detail - is front and center. ‘ Very impressive.
MUCH appreciated!!
Nice video, saved me some trouble. One comment though. When torquing for the love of everything holy. Stop torquing after the 1st click. You are over torquing when you click it 2-3-4times one is enough 😊
Lol... Tested, calibrated, and usually expensive wrenches one click will do. Cheap, china, uncalibrated, old...she gets multiple clicks 😄 🤣
How long doe this bedliner last? Is it at least 99.99% water proof? Can it last 15 years in snow aalt conditions?
Would entirely be dependant on the proper prep before the application of it.
Good buy !!! Fix it up !
Should be leading with the brush cutter not the tractor. Cringe
Thats a great way to 'ring' to the deck of the brush cutter
@@hcr-motorworks ??? Have never heard of this…explain
@@brettadams417 Backing up over shrubs or stumps can cause the blade to deflect so bad it literaly leaves a ring in the deck of the bush hog. If you ever see a perfectly round raised circle with chipped paint or rust on the top side of the deck thats exactly what happened which is why I drive forward and use the loader/grapple to push over the thick stuff, If I cant push it over I dont want to be using the bush hog to try and cut it.
@@hcr-motorworks this would happen the same going forward or backwards…zero difference. Has to do with what you go after not the direction. Going forward into an uncut area and then having to back up as you did in the vid means your exposing the underside of your tractor which is much more vulnerable and expensive then the rotary cutter. All rotary cutter’s eventually get wear and tear regardless of the direction…that’s literally why it’s a rotary cutter and not a lawn mower…it’s designed and purpose built for this. To help you out the better way is lift your cutter up a few feet back up about a cutter length and a half into the uncut then put cutter all the way down drive forward. Depending on how big the material is dictates how big to lift your cutter. If it’s not that big doesn’t need to be as high and can go longer distances backwards. This is how to properly do this activity.
Wear gloves when assembling. I ended up with some metal splinters throughout my hands.
It works if your not planning on rolling it around. Honestly it’s a pile of shit and with a small inverter machine some leads and a 155cf gas cylinder on it. Say about 200-250lbs. It feels like it will collapse when you try to wheel it on a smooth concrete floor. If you have any plans to wheel it outside to weld on your car or something then good luck because I’m willing to bet your going to have a big mess to clean up. This thing should have been rated for 150 lbs max. I bet they gave it a 350 lb rating because it collapsed at 351 lbs sitting still.
It's still going to rust under that stuff only now you won't be able to see it until it's to far gone.
Not when you properly prep the metal and use a good quality 2 part epoxy primer like I did...of course if your talking salt infected zones yea all bets are off
Horribly abused and neglected JD. My gut says leave it there and move on.
Great job, will save and use this as a reference for when I do this on my AE86.
What happens when your pinion preload is way off. I was getting a measurement of 50 in/lbs without the seal
Ooph...i would check the bearings and make sure they are fully seated on the shaft and the race in the housing. If it is, your going to need to shim it out and get it proper spec with the nut torqued properly giving you the proper amount of preload.
where on the pinion shaft would the shims go? and how would i go about measuring that? @@hcr-motorworks
@@toe-b203 between the pinion gear and the pinion bearing. The correct way is to measure the depth of the pinion gear in the case
We just inherited a JD 750 that i know absolutely nothing about. Is the bucket removable so other implements can be put in it's place. Or am I expecting too much from such an old tractor? Thanks
So the 68 hours explains the good tread left on the tires however they should be dry rotted from sitting in the sun.
Glad to see you changed the hitch pins to Category 2 and used lynch pins. Looks like you need to get the lights working next. It pays to do things right.
As an old car buff I understand the desire to restore the them to pristine condition. However, as a retired chemist I must point out the dangers involved in some approaches shown in this video. The use of dry ice-solvent mixtures represents a very high risk of explosion and fire. While the liquid portion of these mixtures may be below their flash point, their vapors are not. I know because I witnessed such a fire in which 2 coworkers were horribly burned. Additionally, dispersion of particulates in the air, in combination with various solvents, represents a hazard your lungs. Particulates and most solvents are not effectively removed by filters one can buy over the counter. My recommendation is to take your classic to a professional.
Is that a gas or diesel? If gas what engine? Thank you
Its a gas, its a mazda or Isuzu 4 cyl. I forget which exactly
Great video man. I'm going Prevost for my paint guns.
Prevost all the way. I tried the milton style high flow and unless your getting the non aluminum ones they wear out fast
I know I am late to the show but could you have gotten the same result of prepping the car by sandblasting it or does the dry ice and sanding get a different result? Not trying to be rude but I’m coming up on that part of the build and looking into my options
kzread.info/dash/bejne/gmyalLmoj92oqNI.htmlsi=Qcp4yFR74Qs0Ez3m Heres the video where i explain the what/why for most of the decisions that were made to get to this point in the build.
Looks like you have lots of fans.
For the makeshft paintbooth setup :)
I use the Milton V-style also. I use the brass couplers with brass or steel plugs. I have good luck with them, and they are holding up well.
Did you do a video on the front axle oil or similar and the hydraulic steering cylinder too?
Not yet...i still have to do that job unfortunately
you guys would problably recieve alot more attention and subscribers if you talked over your footage, the music playing over what should be an explanation sucks fyi
And yet, its the highest viewed video on the channel the way it is. Ive got voiceovers on the rest of the build process but the completion project got the music.
@@hcr-motorworksI love finding a channel that thinks they’re better than the criticism they revive. Keep booming with your 4k. Clearly better car videos than what you got out there
@applekidn1 I don't think I'm better, I think the criticism was fair, just stated that every in depth video that made this compilation video DOES have voice-over and received like 2-300 views...this one gave no explanation of the process, has free music throughout and somehow has literally the most views on the channel...so clearly I don't know wat the algorithm or the consumer wants, that was my point.
To help during my seal replacement I modified the spring compression tool and made the bends much higher up and ground off the forks. This allowed the tool to reach around and under the cam shaft. Much better approach that simplifies getting the keepers out, but more importantly back in. I also added two 3/4 inch strips of wood to each side of the handle to make the process much more controlled and comfortable.
All good info!
Maaan you need to consider upgrading to a sand blaster it did just hurt me the amount of effort But appreciated ❤
Haha, i actually explained why i didn't blast it all off in a separate video. Came down to cost and ability most other garage shops would have access to.
Use a tile rubber float, works like a champ
how many years will it last in the salt belt?
I recommend moving away from anywhere involving salt on the roads if you care about cars 😉
Working on an 87 mk2 golf. Holy shit its the thickest, nastiest, undercoating ever. Such a bitch to remove!
kitty kitty kitty
Introduction way too long
A few notes for the JD 55 series: The loader detaches in about 2 minutes, well worth removing for maintenance or when not needed during other operations. Contrary to what you stated, the hydrostat has it's own pump separate from the hydraulic pump. Someday, the fuel pickup hose in the tank will disintegrate and the engine will starve long before the tank is empty. Replace with a hose intended to be installed in a fuel tank (have had to do this on 2 '55 series JD). You may also want to suck all of the crap out of the bottom of the tank when you do this to save on subsequent fuel filter replacements. Someday, the bracket holding the fuel strainer and that serves as the anchor for the engine end of the throttle cable will crack and fail. You will immediately see power roll back. Weld a small gusset in the corner of the bracket when you repair it. The small brass cable lock on the throttle cable at the injector pump will wear over time and will keep the engine from reaching full throttle - don't mistake this gradual power loss for an engine problem. Power steering hydraulic lines are routed right beside the front axle drive shaft and are a BEAR to replace. Keep an eye on the driveshaft and guard that they are not chafing the PS lines. Clean and lube the hydro pedals linkages regularly and learn what adjustments are needed to stop neutral "creep". Keep the radiator and screen clean, do your other maintenance regularly, and these are a nearly bullet-proof machine. When the hourmeter failed, I installed a small electric hobbs meter, RTV'd it to the top of the fuel tank after removing the fuel spill pan (which I've never missed). Wired it to the fuel shutoff solenoid for positive.
If you bought this for 2K you stole it.
Is there a part two
Theres a part two, AND a part 3! kzread.info/dash/bejne/iI2AlZZ_Y5qeqqw.htmlsi=p1sZ--RrqmT5oiVM
kzread.info/dash/bejne/pmSf1a59cdOqZ7w.htmlsi=1bILAMj-TjnzVKQN
And an installation video kzread.info/dash/bejne/nnuJsNeSYrrJgqg.htmlsi=Ngui1QYcRDnzB3d-
Maybe to tighten up the chain you can just use a wire feed through 2 links & just twist it, or use a bolt with 2 washers & a nut run through 2 links. (of course leaving a link between the 2 links you run through the wire or bolt through) & just tighten the bolt/nut until it is as tight as you like. Well there is more than one way to skin a cat (fish not house cat). Your review it very nice, (I need the measurement most of all). I just got a Primeweld 225x welder & it's kind of big but it look like it should fit fine. Thanks a lot.
Should have used cement all to finish it off.
Meh, it was gonna be covered up anyway. Just wanted some more structure on the face of the bricks beforehand