Welcome to the Mount Annan Line, a fictitious railway line connecting the Macarthur area in South Western Sydney at Campbelltown and travelling through the suburbs of Mount Annan, Narellan, Oran Park and Leppington (with connections through to the new Western Sydney airport at Badgerys Creek. There is also an branch line running through to Camden. This line provides passenger services to the growing outer southwestern suburbs and a freight path for goods traversing from the industries surrounding the new airport to other parts of the state. In years gone by the Camden Branch line followed a similar path, until its closure on the 1st January, 1963. As back then, Kenny Hill still presents a challenge for services due to its steep gradient. The Mount Annan Line hosts an eclectic mix of NSWGR locomotives and rolling stock, from a range of eras in NSW railway history. You may spot anything from steam locomotive power through to more modern Sydney suburban electric passenger sets.
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Awesome trains got a couple at work
Broke my Tangara because of the bad design but I enjoyed your video
I recently brought it for my little brother but I have no idea how to make it operate can someone please help
Thank you, this video was the only reason I was able to finally open it up. Absolutely terrible design but top credit to you for a great instructional video.
Price please
Hey Lee, love the internal station details and lighting. Some nice runners and variety on the layout. What are your next plans? Cheers
Thanks Jason, I appreciate your kind words :) Next plans are starting to resume work on bits of the scenery, and to try and translate the layout plan into JMRI so that I can start delving into the world of block occupancy, automated signal control etc. That’s likely to be a while off yet though!
Hello my freidy Beautiful video🚂👌👍📝👈
Great run Lee, you have done an excellent job with the extension 👏
Thanks Jason :) It’s great to finally see the plan coming together :)
Ems I think I might break it
Cool Railroad. CHEERS FROM New Jersey USA
Great model rail video l👍👍 Like 13 . Greetings from Germany, Martin
Nice! It looks really good.
This looks great, can you tell me what camera you have used ? Thankyou. Rob
Hi Rob, thanks for your nice comment. It was a quite cheap little cube style camera that I bought on eBay. I don’t think it has a specific brand. I will see if I can find a link for it to share with you.
www.ebay.com.au/itm/SQ12-1080P-HD-Mini-Sport-Camera-Action-DV-Infrared-Night-Vision-Motion-Sensor-AU-/363091410708?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0
That's great Lee. Well thought out track plan. Looking really good. Pete.
Thanks Pete, much appreciated :)
Very nice Lee!. Where you controlling two Cabs at the same time? Cheers
Thanks Jason, yes, I have two wireless NCE throttles so I was stood off to the side out of camera shot operating both trains. Makes you keep on your toes! :)
We’re u driving Lee or were all the movements ‘system’ controlled ? I love your structures 👍 are they from Model Train Buildings ?
Thanks Gary, yes I was driving using two NCE wireless throttles, I just stood back out of the way of the camera. Both the main station structure and the station masters house are Model Train Buildings kits. I love building those kits and always try to add a little extra to them.
Did you make these buildings at 3:19 or did you buy them online?
Hi, the station building that you see on the left of screen is a laser cut kit that is produced by Walker models (Tenterfield Station) … see Walkermodels.com The station buildings on the right of screen are A.M.R.I Australian suburban station kit(s).
@@themountannanline9312 They look amazing! I might get the A.M.R.I one.
What is the length of a full 4 car set?
I will measure it when I’m next out there and get back to you.
@@themountannanline9312 That would be great, thanks.
Hi mate sorry it took a couple of days. The 4 car Tangara set coupled together is around 94cm in length overall, or around 3’ 1” in the old money. Hope this helps :)
@@themountannanline9312 Thank you for that. It is the perfect size for my layout and I am considering purchasing one.
Where do i get the sound file from please
Hi apologies I’m not too sure of the answer. At this stage I’m yet to add sound to mine.
I have a collection of trains from all over the world. Including 2 Eurekas and one Auscision. These Aussi/Chinese locos were both, the most expensive and the hardest to work on. Ordered and paid a deposit for a 3801 quite a few years back......not sure if she will ever materialize. Sadly it's like with the real trains: Not that cheap and be prepared to suffer.
It did take a long time for the Tangaras to finally come into realization but I feel the end result was worth it, despite them being tricky to open up. Sorry to hear about your experience with 3801 … which manufacturer did you order that from?
@@themountannanline9312Yes nice to look at. By memory the Tangaras had a special sound from the variable freqeuncy drives when departing. 3801 from Eureka.
Great run Lee! Coming along very nicely. I didn't realise the number of options you had on the original layout, the cabride view always gives a different perspective. You have done a great job integration the new helix to level 2. What will the width be for level 2? Cheers
Thanks Jason, the width of the upper deck along the front run will be only 400mm so that it doesn’t overhang the lower deck too much and block the view of it, and also to hopefully make it easier to support without having to add additional intrusive supports coming up from the ground (that’s the theory anyway, fingers crossed that it works). The back run upper deck will be narrower, probably between 250 or 300 mm as it has to sit in front of where the gradient comes up along the back wall. The original layout was quite good for shunting and I am hoping that it will still retain that functionality for operating in that mode. Where it lacked though was in a sense of trains being able to go any place. Cheers, Lee
Looking goood ~ What camera?
Hi thanks :) The camera is a tiny little cheap cube like thing I bought on eBay for about $20 that records to an SSD card. It’s supposed to be HD but I’m not sure it’s all that good a quality ... might need to invest in a slightly better one at some stage.
www.ebay.com.au/itm/SQ12-1080P-HD-Mini-Sport-Camera-Action-DV-Infrared-Night-Vision-Motion-Sensor-AU-/363091410708?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0
The contents of the mystery bag... The wires with the plugs on the end are for wiring in a speaker if you wish to add sound to the model. The additional coupler boxes are to replace the end plastic moulded coupler and, install a knuckle coupler to join two Tangara sets together
Cheers on explaining the mystery bag... just another thing to note for new owners... these carriages have SMALL wheels... so they will discover any over gappie track you might have.. be warned you might need to get the track gang in.
Great video!
Thanks Gareth :)
Thank you so much for posting this. I went to Mitre10 and picked up a $10 models blade kit that had your knife blade, so I used that. It was not easy. Just recently I watched a video of the whole design process and construction of model trains. So how you could end up designing something and have this nightmarish design fault I don’t know. I love their work - but they need to have a think about access to the inside of their models. The documentation is terrible. It said nothing about swapping the plugs over to DCC on the circuit board. Mine would not lift off and ended up pulling the DC Female plug of the circuit board! There is a mystery bag of supplies in the box too… I have no idea what they are for - there is nothing in the documentation. I had NO IDEA about the lights and their functions so thank you for that. I am relatively new to this hobby and get so frustrated that no one bothers to document everything so new people know about this stuff vs just taking it for granted that everyone knows everything. But again - Thank you so much. It took 45 minutes - but I finally opened the Drivers carriage.
Hi Fraser, I am glad the video helped you. It can be frustrating when the documentation is a bit lacking. Unfortunately I also had a similar problem with one of the lighting plugs since posting this video. They seem to be only surface mounted to the PCB and detach very easily. In mine, it was the DCC plug housing (thankfully in the dummy end) that detached. Luckily I was trying to reinstate the wiring harness to the DC plug there, as it seems to me that there is a problem somewhere in the lighting functionality in the dummy end (mainly around Aux 3 and Aux 4 functions not being recognized). This is not an issue in the motor end and can be worked around in the dummy end with the assistance of either JMRI or a Lokprogrammer (depending on the type of decoders you are using). It requires some tweaking to what lights come on in what directions, but I’ve managed to work that out in mine after a little experimentation. I agree about model accessibility, a screw on type situation for the cab bodies could potentially save a lot of headaches. I also saw the video you mentioned, it was quite interesting and shows just what a complex process is involved. It’s no wonder that the design and development phase can be so long when you see what’s involved! Thanks for your comments, again, I am very happy if the video has helped a little :) Regards, Lee :)
Ps, re the mystery bag of supplies, one element of that is a Kadee style coupler that you add if you wish to attach two Tangara sets together to form an 8 car train. I was told (and can’t verify the accuracy of this) that the additional bit of little wiring is in case you are installing speakers for a sound decoder.
can we get a full tour of you layout?
Hi yes I will try and do that one day, although at the moment I have a lot of construction and changes to the track plan happening, so I will wait until I get that all completed before uploading a full tour. It is still very much a work in progress!
This is poor design.
*** Update 28/4/21 ... Given there are folks (myself included) experiencing lighting issues, I would now advise leaving the lighting plugs in the DUMMY locomotive in their DC positions rather than moving them to the DCC slots. The reason for this is that there seems to be an issue with the AUX 3 and AUX 4 outputs at the dummy end that impacts on lighting functionality. By leaving things in the DC position in the dummy end you can apply a work around to get the lighting functioning correctly. Lead (motorised) end seems to be fine with the lighting plugs in the DCC slot as shown in the video ***
Thanks for posting this. It sure saved me a lot of stress.
Thanks John, I’m glad it helped :)
I used bank cards to separate mine. Those front skirts under the couplers were a problem in mine too, I’ve got both floating in the box now, will reattach them one day perhaps.
Great work