Join Bespoke Unit's Paul Anthony for an on-the-wrist look at the Zenith Defy El Primero 21. Watch our video to learn about this stealthy and slim-to-wear high-tech chronograph.
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Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Watch Review: Two Watches, One Stealthy Case:
I've been very excited to test out this new Zenith 9004 Automatic movement.
It's essentially two watches in one: a regular time component with the balance wheel and escapement. You can see this through the open face, but underneath, you've also got the escapement and powertrain for the chronograph. In this case, the chronograph is 1/100th of a second.
You can read a 30 minute chronograph function at 3 o' clock, with elapsed seconds at 6 o' clock. The second hand does one whole rotation per second.
We can see the power reserve at 12 o' clock. The reserve is 50 minutes for the chronograph, but 50 hours for the watch itself.
It's powered by a unidirectional rotor; this is maybe one of the downsides, since I don't particularly like unidirectional rotors. This is because you can get it into a funky spin when not winding it in the "correct" direction.
[01:36] Appearance & Operation
The caseback is extremely handsome, with the star motif not only on the rotor, but also the clasp. The clasp is titanium with a PVD coating, so it ties together well with the alligator leather and rubber strap.
The black ceramic case has high-polish facets and a satin finish on other surfaces. This is reminiscent of, for example, the Omega Dark Side watches.
This offers a very stealthy package, extremely modern even though it's a case design from the 1970s El Primeros. I love the big crown with Zenith star motif, and the big solid pushers are nice.
Chronograph pushers are start/stop at 2 o' clock and reset at 4 o' clock.
To manually wind the main watch, you rotate the crown from top-down, while going down-top winds the 50 minute chronograph.
There is actually a slight audible hiss as you start the chronograph.
[03:37] Measurements
The case diameter is 44mm, while the case-to-crown is 49mm.
Strap width is 22mm and 25mm across the entirety of the strap, since it's quasi-integrated into the case itself.
The depth of the watch is between 14.5mm and 15mm.
It wears relatively slim on the wrist, even though it's 50mm lug-to-lug, back to front.
I typically don't wear watches significantly over 40mm, but the stout lug-to-lug width and pivoting strap make it wear smaller.
[04:38] Technical Specifications
The movement itself is the El Primero 9004 Automatic, with 293 components. The frequency for the time-only function is 36,000 vibrations per hour, 5 Hz. The 1/100 second chronograph, on the other hand, is at 360,000 vibrations per hour, 50 Hz.
As I have said earlier, the time-only movement has a 50 hour power reserve, while the chronograph has 50 minutes. The indicator for the chronograph's power reserve is at 12 o' clock.
As for who should buy this watch, obviously, Zenith fans, plus anyone into new innovative movements. This watch uses the Defy LAB technology.
[05:33] Conclusion
For me, this wouldn't be a first chronograph purchase in the $10-12,000 range. This is because there's a lack of versatility in the very black stealth appearance.
However, if you're looking for that black stealthy look, or it's your second chronograph, it's a nice dressy chronograph.
Of course, it's not a dress watch, but this could look James Bond-esque with a tuxedo or dark suit.
It's not going to go with any ensemble you'd wear with brown shoes, for example.
I've had this on the wrist for a week now, and it wears very, very nice.
It weighs in at about 120 grams including strap, due to a titanium clasp, leather and rubber band, and ceramic case.
The watch is very sturdy on the wrist.
My wrist is just under 8 inches, and I've got it on the last possible length of the strap.
Even so, it gets tight in warmer conditions; I'm not sure if Zenith have an option for a larger strap.
Overall, I'm extremely satisfied with the watch, and am sad to see it go.
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The Bespoke Unit Team
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Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Watch Review: Two Watches, One Stealthy Case:
• Zenith Defy El Primero...