Yamaha XJ900f part 5. Valve clearances.

Автокөліктер мен көлік құралдары

Having already bored you to death with the first four parts of this epic franchise, Yamaha XJ900f, I thought I'd give the home maintenance another whirl and check the valve clearances on my XJ. Some adjustment was required and I've shown you how to carry out this essential work.
As usual, there were a few issues with the Gopro sound quality and my shaky delivery but hopefully this won't detract too much from your enjoyment.
If you missed any of the previous videos you can follow this link. • Yamaha XJ900f.
or subscribe to my channel where you will find lots more videos covering a wide range of subjects.
Thanks for watching, Alistair.

Пікірлер: 25

  • @cyclepreacher3799
    @cyclepreacher37992 жыл бұрын

    Hi Alistair, great video tutorials on the XJ! I've ridden a KLR650 the past few years but had to see as we moved. I'm now in a city/suburb area and after much research based on prices I'm liking the XJ900 a lot!!! You have made an intimidating job look doable by a home mechanic learning as he goes! Cheers from Australia, Queensland.

  • @ronlandman6267
    @ronlandman62673 жыл бұрын

    Hi. You did a good job. You have good lights in the garage. Nice

  • @AlistairCampbell1047cc

    @AlistairCampbell1047cc

    3 жыл бұрын

    Thanks Ron, my biggest problem is no proper heat in the garage. I'm going to have to get heating installed.

  • @kyhlmann1961

    @kyhlmann1961

    3 жыл бұрын

    @@AlistairCampbell1047cc Such a nice garage(and bike) deserves the best solution: install a heatpump. Btw: i have a bike exactly like yours and i like it a lot. Greetings from Denmark.

  • @AlistairCampbell1047cc

    @AlistairCampbell1047cc

    3 жыл бұрын

    @@kyhlmann1961 , thanks for the comment. I'll have to investigate the heatpump option.

  • @jonasjrgensen4815
    @jonasjrgensen48153 жыл бұрын

    great video - helped me to adjust the valves on my old xj.... they were off by 0,05 and 0,03. Really no resaon to change...but what the heck. Have to use the Corona-time

  • @AlistairCampbell1047cc

    @AlistairCampbell1047cc

    3 жыл бұрын

    Jonas, I'm glad you found the video helpful. The XJ is a great bike and very reliable. Enjoy 2021.

  • @johnrocker2986
    @johnrocker29863 жыл бұрын

    Old school and I agree with you, using silicon or better still wellseal another thing I do will older machines is always change coils for new as many possible burn problems will be cured. Please do something about those dam ugly yellow dohickies on the front indicators! PLEASE.

  • @AlistairCampbell1047cc

    @AlistairCampbell1047cc

    3 жыл бұрын

    I was wondering when someone would comment on them. Long story short, the original indicator brackets were removed after my Dad had a minor accident back in the day. I had a much tidier set of 'car like' repeater lamps fitted to the fairing but the M.O.T. examiner didn't fancy them. I fitted those monstrosities to pass the test and haven't gotten round to refitting the others yet. I was bidding on a replacement fairing bracket on ebay which fell through but I'm sure I'll pick one up soon then purchase a proper set of front lamps to make the whole thing a bit better looking.

  • @enfielddnepr
    @enfielddnepr2 ай бұрын

    How and what do you stick between the valve and seat to create tthe space at 7:19??

  • @AlistairCampbell1047cc

    @AlistairCampbell1047cc

    2 ай бұрын

    Hi, sorry I didn't make that very clear. It was a zip tie or cable tie depending upon where you come from. A good heavy one, worked a treat. Thanks for watching.

  • @enfielddnepr

    @enfielddnepr

    2 ай бұрын

    @@AlistairCampbell1047cc Thanks for reply. do you mean you compress the spring using a ziptie?

  • @enfielddnepr

    @enfielddnepr

    2 ай бұрын

    Or do you remove the exhaust pipe and stick a ziptie from underneath?

  • @enfielddnepr

    @enfielddnepr

    2 ай бұрын

    Okay after coffee i can see it through the SP-hole, okay.. but you can pull it out with no effort.. are the springs so weak?>

  • @AlistairCampbell1047cc

    @AlistairCampbell1047cc

    2 ай бұрын

    @@enfielddnepr Sorry for the delay. The zip tie sits between the valve and the valve seat. This holds the valve open, so when you turn the engine over half a turn, there's a massive gap between the shim and the cam. This is when you replace the shim with the one that you require. You then turn the engine over again until the cam opens the valve and then you can simply remove the zip tie.

  • @skythreesixtyaerialcapture1950
    @skythreesixtyaerialcapture19502 жыл бұрын

    Haven’t got time or space to do my xj900f, anyone want to buy it? Recent MOT.

  • @USD7551
    @USD7551 Жыл бұрын

    Your videos are of great help and motivation!! I have just saved a 2008 xj900P from the scrapyards as where I am based no one uses or wants an old bike. Hence there are no Pvt shops who would want to work on such and the dealerships doesn't touch the retired bikes!! I might need your advice on an issue which might be quite a bit for this space. If willing, could you kindly share your email or phone number so maybe I can bother you in detail. Thanks from Dubai!!

  • @AlistairCampbell1047cc

    @AlistairCampbell1047cc

    Жыл бұрын

    Hi! Unfortunately I'd rather not disclose either details that you've asked for but let me know what info you require and I'll try to help.

  • @USD7551

    @USD7551

    Жыл бұрын

    ​@@AlistairCampbell1047cc fair enough. So here goes.... BACKGROUND: While trying to see if the tensioner was stuck, as the engine gets loud when hot, forgot to turn off the key and accidently touched the starter button!!! Assuming something would be off, put the tensioner in, hand cranked it from the timing bolt on the crank and it spun freely, so no interference, but wouldn't start. Appeared the cams were out of sync, opened the valve cover and the cams were out of sync! Removed the tensioner, took out the exhaust side guide and the chain was loose enough to turn the cams. However, upon turning they only moved only a bit and in both directions as probably some valves were touching the piston as the crank was on the TDC mark. So set the inlet crank as much as it would move clockwise, put in the tensioner and rotated the crank1/4th turn. The exhaust cam, meanwhile, was aligned as on the compression stroke on cyl 1 and the mark E showed on top (over cyl 4) and the arrow was bang on with the hole and mark on the extreme RHS cam cap (over cyl 4). Now rotated the intake cam 1/4th turn, clockwise, after loosening the cam chain and retightened the chain. Hand rotated the engine anti-clockwise a few times and everything moved without interference and the cams were almost aligned. However, as the intake was, apparently, 1 tooth ahead of the alignment marks (hole and punch over Cyl 4), loosened the cam chain as earlier and moved it one tooth back, retightened everything and rotated a few times and everything seemed to be aligned now with the I and E marks over cyl 4 showing and arrows aligning with holes on cam caps on both ends of the engine. Put the exhaust side guide in, valve cover on, carbs on with fuel and started it, started right up and seemed to be running fine but as the exhaust recirculation ducts were open, it was noisy. Connected the exhaust tubes, put the air filter back, connected all hoses and fuel tank and started the bike. CURRENT SITUATION and ISSUE: It started right up, but here are the current issues: 1. Ran great for a few mins and idle was perfect and smooth, but then suddenly the idle dropped. Upon blipping the accelerator, a little bit, felt like missing/misfire in some cylinder/s. Checked by removing one spark cable at a time and No. 4 appeared not be firing. Removed the Plug, and there was a bit of oil on it. So cleaned it and checked if it was sparking ok and it was. Briefly started the engine for about 2 to 3 seconds to evacuate the cyl 4, put the plug back and started it. It ran great for about 10 secs and again developed missing. Upon checking, cyl 1 was not working now. Did the whole spark plug routine, the plug was sparking but when put back in, the cly is not working. Now both Cyl 1 and 4 are not working even though the spark plugs are both firing. I have exchanged the cly 1 and 4 plugs with cyl 2 and 3 and still the same thing. This is where I am lost. Could there be an issue with the cam's (sync) timing? or something else I need to check. 2. It now has a loud distinct tick which appears to come from the back of the engine, somewhere above the starter. could be a minor leak from the exhaust tubes but not sure. Could there have been some damage to any internal part when I was trying to sync the cams and rotated the crank and cams in both directions, but without using a lot of force or full circle for the crank. Please let me know if you think of anything I should do or check. It just a pain to take off everything as it takes quite a while to remove and put everything back!!

  • @AlistairCampbell1047cc

    @AlistairCampbell1047cc

    Жыл бұрын

    @@USD7551 Hi! I can see why you wanted to chat about this. It must've taken ages to compile that message. I've read it a couple of times and am afraid that there's not much that I feel I can help you with. I have been fortunate enough to have never encountered a major engine issue such as the one you have described. The only thing that I can add is that I think it's unlikely that you have done any engine damage because the bike did run well after initial start up. Beyond that I can't think of anything that would cause the problem you have described. I'm sure you've trolled the internet searching for an answer. I'll also give it a look and if I come up with anything I'll pass it on. Good luck with your endeavour and I'm sorry I can't be of more help.

  • @USD7551

    @USD7551

    Жыл бұрын

    ​@@AlistairCampbell1047cc Thanks once again for your message and reading through the long post!!

Келесі