World Cup climbers and setters exploring movements
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"In bouldering competitions, there is limited time and opportunity for route setters to explore new movements. Route setters are always under pressure and have no time to push new concepts to their limit. They often have to make quick decisions in order to split the ranking and create an interesting show.
Manuel Hassler (Flathold co-owner) decided to create a collaborative space and invited some international route setters to join two of the world's best competition climbers (Olympic Champion Janja Garnbret (SLO) and two-time overall IFSC Boulder World Cup winner Yoshiyuki Ogata (JPN).
The idea was to create a new playground for the setters and the athletes to explore route settings outside of the competition circuit and try to push ideas to a new dimension."
Featuring: Janja Garnbret, Yoshiyuki Ogata, Manuel Hassler, Pierre Broyer, Katja Vidmar and Gen Hirashima
Directed by: Mathieu Achermann
Camera: Joao Prates, Mathieu Achermann
Edit: Mathieu Achermann
Color Grading: Romain Do - Pandado Studio
English Subtitles: Natalie Berry
Пікірлер: 101
To see Yoshiyuki compliment Janja (and the other way around) was very cool. You don't get to see male and female professional boulders (at their caliber) collab that much.
I wish after competitions finish and the podium is done, the route setters come out and demo their intended beta! Would be hugely insightful
@seanhouchins-mccallum1961
Жыл бұрын
The setters wouldn’t be able to do most of the boulders
@thibaut4780
Жыл бұрын
They don’t need to do the whole bolder but indicating how they meant the bolder and also just knowing who is behind the bolder would be a great ad to the comps
@mayawitters
Жыл бұрын
@@seanhouchins-mccallum1961I assure you most of the route setters can absolutely do their own boulders. They’re mad strong. It’s the four minute limit for competitors that makes it tricky
@llovebeats3749
Жыл бұрын
YESSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS
@connorperzely6754
Жыл бұрын
Bruh they are thrashed after setting and forerunning for a comp. They likely don't have much skin left at that point. That's asking a lot
Can you imagine if ifsc Livestreams had this quality of filming
This video makes me realize that the ifsc has a lot of work to do on the filming side of things in order to better convey this new bouldering style.
@tablechaise3211
Жыл бұрын
Absolutely, especially while live casting the competition (for example, not filming only from behind, a terrible idea to show the overhang/roof profile).
@themeatpopsicle
Жыл бұрын
a lot more funding needs to pour into these events for a lot of the "wishlist" things (like more cameras etc). It all costs money, usually more than most people think. They'll get there when they have a slot on mainstream sports television and there are large corporate sponsors.
@RyanAnderson-ho6dv
Жыл бұрын
Couldn't agree more. Hopefully the Olympics and continued popularity bring some more money to the production of IFSC events
I like dynamic style but it would be cool sometimes to see some beautiful static style boulders in competition.
@Airsofter3009
Жыл бұрын
It would be very hard to set because of how insanely strong these climbers are. Most of them can do one-armers on 8-10mm edges. They tried for the Olympics but it didn't work out sadly.
@dave990
Жыл бұрын
The top climbers are just too strong on static and crimps. It's almost impossible to set a line where all competitors wouldn't top it. Comp climbers arent just climbers now, they are pure athletes with incredible motor skills, dynamic power, route reading, shoulder strength etc! This new comp climbing style is also more impressive and far more entertaining imo than watching small moves on small holds. I certainly get what you saying though - they could easily do some hard replicas of outdoor climbs. Maybe they will... Maybe the occasional old school pulling routes will trend again in the near future as climbing and route setting is constantly changing and evolving ✌️
@victorriverieulx2297
Жыл бұрын
with the new dual-texture holds introduced this wc we might see some more very slabby static boulders which would be pretty nice.
@milksushi6640
Жыл бұрын
There was one boulder last season where yannick was the only one to top through a ridiculously shouldery move. Probably my favorite boulder from the season
@dave990
Жыл бұрын
@@milksushi6640 I remember that, it was insane and one of my faves too.
the productionvalue of this video considering the amount of subscribers is insane
It's amazing how modern bouldering keeps evolving and new moves are still being "discovered". The combination of strength, explosiveness, coordination, flexibility and creativity really sets this sport apart.
So cool to see Janja taking it on with the boys!
Mathieu your colour grading is so good
@flatholdofficial2304
Жыл бұрын
Color Grading by Pandado Studio ;)
Epic video ! Loved it. When I clicked on the video I was expecting unknown climbers that would try the boulders. Was hugely surprised when I saw Yoshiyuki and Janja. They didn't invite anybody :)
High quality content as always, wish there was more 😄
this is SUCH a cool project!!!!!! and i bet i'm not alone in saying it fulfills a dream of seeing janja and elite male athletes climbing the same boulders! just awesome - i have saved it, and shared it, and will watch many times, i think - THANK YOU FOR DOING THIS AND SHARING IT WITH US
The evolution of indoor climbing is amazing to watch. Beautiful movement riddles.
this is one of the coolest videos ive seen in a while, super well put together, from the ideas, to the filmography, incredible!
This is so cool to watch. Always want to see Janja try boy's problem. And it's good to know how route setter evolve their problems.
C'est incroyable de voir que les blocs qui semblent aujourd'hui normaux n'étaient il y a quelques années encore que des idées. Et c'est sûr que c'est vraiment enrichissant de voir les athlètes et les ouvreurs collaborer ainsi, pour expérimenter de nouveaux mouvements qu'on voit ensuite aux coupes/championnats du monde ! Ça donne une visibilité énorme et ça permet à ces mouvements de se propager partout ! Encore une fois, la qualité de ce court métrage est absolument fascinante. Bravo 👏
This video is so well planned and executed, nice work!
This was dope! Love seeing the process.
I love how climbing is such a creative and collaborative sport!!
Perfect filming and editing, insane ideas and amazing climbers ❤
Great video, awesome route setters and 2 of my favourite climbers. Can't ask for more... Wait, I can! More of this please! :D
Incredibly interesting to watch!
Such a cool video & concept !
One of the coolest video I saw for a while, please make a series with this concept!
This was such an awesome video to see the insight behind setters ideas in new movements and combining this with 2 of the best climbers in the world! Super cool to see how movement is being pushed further and further, and makes me excited as a Routesetter to see how this discipline is being further developed and explored!
14:06 watch her bottom hand. How far it slides shows how she was just on the brink of making the move.
Incredible as always 🤩🙏⚡️
Nice video! Really enjoyed it!
Magnifique ! Ça fait plaisir de voir une vidéo comme ça qui montre le positionnement des ouvreurs internationaux lorsqu’ils cherchent à aller plus loin dans la création de mouvement dans un bloc ! Avec en plus la possibilité de voir des athlètes d’un tel niveau dans les blocs ça nous montre vraiment l’étendu de la difficulté que ça doit être de caler un bloc dans une compte internationale ! Avec en plus des retours en français qui font très plaisir 🦾
Top tier quality video 🔥
Great concept and amazing production, but it is really disheartening to see such blatant disregard for the obvious safety hazard in the last boulder, a jump into a volume half covered in a slippery surface. Both elite climbers almost smacked their faces into it. I really appreciate the creativity and preparation time from the setters, but in the last problem it really looked like they were more interested in the spectacle aspect, rather than actually being a challenge and test for the physical abilities of the athletes.
Tobin! Instant like.
Great video!
Amazing video!
Masterclass ✨
Great video. Can’t wait to see what gym climbing looks like in 5 years. It’s already becoming so much fun. Good change of pace from outdoor climbing. I love both outdoor and indoor climbing, but for different reasons, hopefully haters can get on the same page at some point.
this is porn for boulderers. extremely well done! thank you for creating this gem.
Wow this was an amazing video ! hope it wont be the only one.
Amazing
Great choice of music
Pls bring back some oldschool comps
This really supports my theory that arm span is the only thing that would get in the way of Janja dominating on the mens circuit
wow this is really good !
This show and explain that setter are not on a single person “it’s a team” Creating and evolving in every competition Well done 🎉 Keep it up
Great video
Amazing video and sounds selection ! We want more like this please !
It would be fun if they could do some creative classical style boulders aswelll, closer to "normal" climbing but with fun new twists. Most of these boulders are like 1 in a million to find outside for example.
sooooooo nice
Janja is a weapon.
Summary was generated by Summatim, let us know if there are any inaccuracies! 🤖 0:07: Introduction 2:07: First Boulder 9:23: Second Boulder 14:51: Third Boulder 18:37: Conclusion
WOW
I
What gym was this made at!
🤩🤩🤩
Do someone know which makita impact they use?
Vidéo incroyable merci mais en tant que prévôtois je n’ai qu’une question en tête. Est ce que c’était filmé à la Petermann ? Bref désolé pour la question. Je me réjouis de la prochaine 👏🏼
@achermannmathieu8468
Жыл бұрын
Non le vidéo a été tournée à Bienne au centre d'entrainement de l'équipe suisse.
I am severely jealous to the point of resentment. I would cut one of my own kidneys out for the chance to set a v1 at my local gym.
@zennydoo
Жыл бұрын
Have you tried asking them nicely?
yoshiyuki is such a handsome man woww hahaha
incredible film, but as weve seen in the japan worldcup on mens final boulder nr. 4, its hard to make such difficult, complex moves in 4 Minutes
@Terralink24
Жыл бұрын
Well to be fair Paul Jenft looked pretty close to do the move, and Mejdi made it look pretty easy after the competition. I think sometimes the setters have to take some chances if it's not just gonna be a matter of who can do the boulders in the fewest tries
@ghinwamoujaes9059
Жыл бұрын
Maybe overcomplicating it but it would be nice if they gave one boulder more than 4 minutes. Then we could really see both Setting + Climbing creativity come to life. But of course, who knows if it works on TV.
@ghinwamoujaes9059
Жыл бұрын
Maybe overcomplicating it but it would be nice if they gave one boulder more than 4 minutes. Then we could really see both Setting + Climbing creativity come to life. But of course, who knows if it works on TV.
@p3scful
Жыл бұрын
@@ghinwamoujaes9059 I suggest giving extra time for climber who finish before 4 minutes For example, If route1 flash within 1 minute You have extra 3 mins + for the next route. 😆
@sorryforthat4792
Жыл бұрын
@@Terralink24 agree, but theres a certain limit with creativeness and complexness within boulders if the time limit is at 4min. maybe that one was close but you cant change more because 4min is like 5 or 6 tries
In the background u can hear adam beyer b2b carl cox
What is the song at 6 mins? It's not what's listed there, i need it
@abstractwayrecords1224
Жыл бұрын
Babou the dog - two fingers & Cujo (amon tobin)
@abstractwayrecords1224
Жыл бұрын
kzread.info/dash/bejne/a5WTtpR6ed2wopc.html
Zajebisty
Intro song is from Moderat. Shame it's not tagged.. can't just use people's art without referencing :D
@achermannmathieu8468
Жыл бұрын
All music are credited at the end of the movie
Paddle move is kind of boring anyway.
YeH, this is literally not the stuff you see outdoors. Climbing has totally become parkour. Everything is ninja warrior. I don’t get it.