My son and I live in Lodi California and we saw the weather report on Tuesday headed an hour west to half Moon Bay Everybody in our family thought we were crazy ended up being some of the best surfing in my life sometimes you have to head into the eye of the storm to see true beauty🤙☯️ get busy living

@icysurfer1

Жыл бұрын

A real soul surfer goes surfing, no matter what...! Even putting a cold wet wet suit on on a cold rainy day. Cheers.

@afveteran

Жыл бұрын

What happen? How was Mavericks? And did you venture to Santa Cruz and Steamer Lane? Or outside Pleasure Point? This was back in 1966-1968.. Hope you both had fun!

@attiliobociccio6963

Жыл бұрын

Toats mcgoats brah 🤙

@arizonaranger527

Жыл бұрын

So basically you and your son got slammed a lot 😂

I'm 65 yo and it's the biggest I can recall,great video,thank you👊

The Greg Long drop was pure artistry.

"Swells like this rearrange our relationship with where we surf. We think we know the takeoff zone at our local spot, and then all of a sudden it's 100 yards out and to the left. We think waves never break inside that cove or jetty or harbor or river, and then all of a sudden, they do." I'm not crying, you're crying. Poetry.

Amazing Todos and swell… props to Greg Longs wave and all that paddled out there. Yah JoJo

Among many great things, and places I've been, Surfing for over 25 years (and for 1 month a year now) is the best, most pivotal decision I ever made. Started at 29 yrs old, in cold water. Cheers.

@usernotfound904

Жыл бұрын

Isnt the pacific cold no matter the time of year?

Resident of San Diego here. The swells at Blacks beach these past few days have been absolutely gargantuan

Hi Kevin!! I miss your folks.. hug your Mama for me.🌴🌊 Thanks for the epic surf reports. You know if the Goat rerouted his travel path for the year, for this, it's gotta be epic, as well.

I love Surfline! I love being a Californian. Thank you for such a beautiful piece. 🔥💕🤙🏼

Yes, 1969 is the benchmark used for the last 50 years. For us in So Cal that were there, we will always remember waves breaking over both Newport Harbor jetties. Dana Point closing out across the entire bay, and a reef breaking further out than the end of the San Clemente pier. Fun times.

@outdoorfreedom9778

Жыл бұрын

I had to laugh when they said they had their big boards of 9 feet for this. In 64 my favorite board was 9 5 and I ended up with a 10 when I gave it up in 66.

@erichughes284

Жыл бұрын

DAM SERIOUSLY?TOO big for me

@webinarprofessor

Жыл бұрын

What a great posting! I grew up spending my summers in Balboa. Learned to surf at Zuma & Surf City. Graduated to Surfrider and Killer Dana. Surfed a 10'2" GUN, red-fin surfboard - shaped by Mike Hynson. Also bought a Phil Edwards shaped board from Hobie Alter. It was my favorite board ever. I was in Newport Jetties on my parents 46' cruiser, with the waves breaking over each jetty. The Wedge was beyond description. Another day my buddies and I drove oun chevy surf wagon down (lol) down to Dana Point, when the huge waves were breaking all the way to San Onofre. We jumped off the pier and tried to paddle out (kneeling on our boards in those days) - but had no chance. I'm 76 yo now - and have just a few people within my family and friends....that I can recall these days with. I wish "bitchin times" to all you old guys & gals with smiles on your faces - (from thinking back to your own gremmie memories)!! Rich Muller ps. don't even get my started on the insanities of "Bal Week" - when Marine Ave often had to close - and there were fire pits covering Balboa beach!!

@olsjohnny5

Жыл бұрын

Grew up in San Clemente, surf the pier all the time. Hard for me to imagine it breaking out past the pier. Sounds unreal epic! Although the sand has definitely changed, especially in the last several years.

@williamminyard1952

Жыл бұрын

Only born in 69.... I dont wish for surf and tide like in 69 but it would of been something to see for sure if I happened to be there.

This particular swell was legendary for sure, but nothing compares to the destruction of the El Nino storms of 1982-83.

I’ve lived and surfed in Hawaii for 40+ years (too old to surf now) and live near Rincon Point now. I saw the huge waves there recently and I also saw all the debris in the water and on the beach, logs, limbs etc from the storms. That’s not something I would like to be tumbling in the whitewater with, lol.

@stormgetts

Жыл бұрын

I saw the same thing at Refugio.. branches, and even a truck tire

@sarahjane4908

Жыл бұрын

Not to mention bacteria levels…

@toneroable

Жыл бұрын

Jelly fish too ?? Euuuuuu......!

@johnliggett9271

Жыл бұрын

you forgot about rattlesnakes

@IrishNattyby25

Жыл бұрын

@@johnliggett9271 No rattlesnakes in Hawaii, lol.

Woohoo!!! That is awesome! I saw massive waves twice when I went to Waimea Bay to watch the first two Eddie Aikau surf contests back in the day. I also saw epic waves at Sandy Beach and Makapuu before in the 1980s where it was breaking way outside and massive. I was so happy to see a picture of the huge waves in one video of Sandy Beach and there is a video at Makapuu not long ago where it got epic. I first learned it could get that big when my college professor in Oceanography at the University of Hawaii told us in class about how Makapuu could get epic on extremely rare conditions. He used to go bodysurfing after class at Makapuu and I would see him gliding along the waves in the water when I was swimming back out from the waves I caught. I used to go bodysurfing almost every day for years when I was younger but now I am an old man living on the Mainland. :)

Lot of Respect for Greg Long. He's already died once but he is Such a Warrior and Great Surfer he wants to Always Take off on the Biggest Wave! Mahalo Greg for your Spirit

@hommuside

Жыл бұрын

Pft. He’s heart stopped for a while, sure it was serious, but he didn’t die.

@highboostingm3

Жыл бұрын

@@hommuside Wow guy.🤦‍♂️

Wow Thanks for documenting one of the biggest swells of our lifetime Really appreciate what you do Thanks again guys👍🤙

Todos looking like huge Mavericks.. That big take-off from Greg Long over that warping face must have been done in faith.

OH WOOOOW very adventurous people,lovers of the ocean...great view thank you all!

I live in Mendocino. The waves were large but so messy and undefined that it didn’t look majestic. The waves did not look as big as they were because that ocean was just so rough. I’ve seen waves LOOK much bigger here. They just actually weren’t. PS: they ended up damaging the Pt. Cabrillo lighthouse in Caspar. That thing is on a cliff 50’ above sea level.

Back in the late 1970's I remember going with a few friends down to the Seal Beach Pier. We were in High School and I rode my bike down there from my parents house near Recreation Park golf course and Wilson High. I would cut through the marina to shorten bike ride there, but it was a pretty long ride none-the-less. The waves were the same height as the pier. I had my Boogie Board and I managed to drop in on a few of them. The water was really nasty from all the sea debris being churned up. But it was an awesome day in the waves and I will never forget it.

@lukerodriguez7908

Жыл бұрын

Tinha um meio metrão servido na série!

@mztokyo7630

Жыл бұрын

@davidboudreau Love that part of Long Beach near Big Rec and Little Rec golf courses. I played a lot of twilight rounds back then. And of course Seal Beach is great. That must have been a heck of a ride.

@davidboudreau4054

Жыл бұрын

@@mztokyo7630 I played a few rounds at both big and little rec golf course. I remember one hole on little rec where it seemed like you teed off from a cliff above the green. Or was the big rec? no clue now, that was so long ago...

@mztokyo7630

Жыл бұрын

@@davidboudreau4054 Thanks for the reply. Alas, even I am forgetting the correct hole as well. I hit a lot of balls into that lagoon though! Water holes were my achilles heel! Enjoying the memories.

Thanks from NZ for your comprehensive reportage. Stoked for Long.

Almost been surfing for 60 years grew up in Pacifica Cal! I rode 55 ft North Bird Rock in1975! The monster from New Zealand! I ride a Mike Eaton bonzer! God bless all my surfing Brothers!

64 year old Westcoaster here and have seen waves breaking on top of HB pier in the 70s. Never seen Todos that big before 🍻

I'm from Ensenada which faces Isla de Todos Santos. And I'd heard about how insane the waves can get on the island. It's so cool to have seen it in this video even if I've never seen it in real life.

All of Los Angeles came to our little town when they missed the best barrels of all time in LA! They didn't even know where to go in their own town!

@civilsocietyprivateinteres1711

Жыл бұрын

Classic valley kooks

Great job team 🙌 Epic coverage and beautiful production. Shoutout the homies Marcus, Kevin, Marc, Jake 🤙

@Kevinsurfmore

Жыл бұрын

Thank you Tyler!

"Its the 50 year storm everything moves in cycles so twice the century the ocean lets us know just how small we really are"

Greg long is animal and to be able to still be doing it at his age mad respect to him and the big wave boys

Fantastic. I can’t wait for the next episode of the 2023 Cali winter

Baja Waimea

Now you can ride it in all the way to the parking lot!

Amazing. Those people are really brave. I used to boogie board when I was a kid. There were huge waves in 1982-83, does anyone remember this? That was the year a lot of piers were damaged. I was there the day the west end of the Santa Monica pier was severely damaged. There were pieces of wood and debris all over the beach. It was something I will never forget.

@dennispatrick4999

Жыл бұрын

It was huge in Malibu too.

@stevehangen1123

Жыл бұрын

We had huge waves in san diego at that time. My friends and I went surfing during one storm where the sets were 12 -14 feet. Brutal

@kimberlyhollingsworth

Жыл бұрын

Yes I was living in Santa Monica then, I remember when it took the second half of pier off! I remember 12 foot waves at Santa Monica beach…

@dman030

Жыл бұрын

I seem to remember Huntington that summer got pretty big, didn't last too long though, few days. We made it down to bodysurf the wedge too.

@stevemcconnell5864

Жыл бұрын

I remember has well seal 🦭 beach pier torn up to late 70s to mid 80s epic time I'm 60 now great memories

Blessed to be able to surf this swell - Seal Beach 🤙🏽

@afveteran

Жыл бұрын

How was Seal Beach, it was known for great setups of great lines. Especially around 7-10 feet. Happy for you!

Was soul filling to watch! Thank you for sharing

Nice segment Epic January to remember for you guys. Enjoy.

Wow amazing footage of the 🌊. Looks like everyone had a great day.

rad, stoked for you guys. a little Waimea out in Cali! woot! 🤙🏄‍♂

Awesome watch thanks for sharing..

love it! Good edit Surfline.

Anyone recall the article in Surfer in the late 60's titled "The Day the Islands Came to Newport"? A couple of years later, the City of Huntington was allowing riders to run out the pier and jump onto the top of the swell (just a few feet below the bottom of the pier)

Thank you Jeff Specolli I just looked at that wave and said hey dud let’s party😆

Edwards point right below El Cap had some insane action

Every swell is different, and in So Cal the angle is the key. The Channel & Offshore islands make a huge difference in where these swells will hit. I would say this wasn’t the biggest we’ve seen in San Diego, but up north it looks like the swell snuck through the shadow of the islands better. Winds were also a factor - never got right in a lot of spots, but The Cove & Blacks were pretty good! I did my thing at Blacks & The Cove & The Cliffs & Mexico (Todos & other unnamed spots) in the 80’s, 90’s I'm like that grumpy old man now - mid-60’s & too beaten up to do this any longer. I’d like to say "…it was definitely bigger in my day, sonny-boy!...” Well, maybe it was & maybe it wasn’t… We didn’t have digital cameras back then, or digital video. Only some grainy old pictures… And the memories of lifting 20’ to 30’ off the ocean’s surface, and taking that massive drop! So here’s to today’s young-turk chargers. Thanks for allowing us to re-live the moments through your exploits! It was definitely bigger in years past! And the fish are always bigger at the bar! Same thing you’ll say to the new guard in 30 years!

Greg Long is a living legend

@lukerodriguez7908

Жыл бұрын

Tinha um meio metrão servido na série!

@yetigonecrazy

Жыл бұрын

his ride at 4:40 was so insane

Crazy. Big waves this season

Superb presentation

epic swell and so fun to see everyone frothing

I’m not a surfer but I enjoy the video.

Awesome ! Thank you

Jonah Carter on the wave at 1:48 ! Amazing to watch the ocean those days!

Mid 80s I ran into some big ones one fall day in HB at Bolsa Chica State beach. Normally blown out and high tide slop. That day I dropped in on a 25' face and made it. Speed so fast the rail was humming. Riding a 5'10" Randy Lewis tri fin. I was maybe 16. 57 now, and will never forget it

Good God! That swell... I'm speechless.

I’m so stoked

Darn, I haven't seen Jojo since he was a teenager, he's the spitting image of his Dad!

Mother nature is so powerful. Amazing waves all over West Coast making thousands very happy.

I remember the 1969 swell well. We surfed "off the end" at Big Corona, then actually in the channel between the jetties because they were more ride-able. I remember the storms that destroyed the HB pier in 1988, Balboa Pier in 1998, but I have never, even seen Black's so big or Todos Santos so big. This has been epic.

I remember going out one day back in the 70s when we had a massive swell hit Southern California, the waves were crashing over the end of the Hermosa pier, my buddy and I were just teenagers and had no business going out in that surf but we did anyways.Once I got in the water fear starting setting in but I didn’t want to admit it, I was actually very relieved when the Coast Guard helicopter flew over and ordered us out of the water lol. I didn’t catch a wave that day unfortunately or maybe fortunately but at least I can say I paddled out in one of the epic swells of my lifetime.

Watching from Australia.

I can’t believe guys paddle out in this surf. 40 feet and 56 degree water? I’m happy to watch

Would have loved to see this in real life. Great video I'm sure there's probably 100+ stories from this

Thanks for putting this video together.

very cool surfline thnk yuo

that was great! I used to surf C Street and The Peer. I'd be scared of the size of the waves in this vid.

Proud to say I was out there

Well done guys

Cheers from Cali !🤙✌️💚🌲🌏☮️

Remember Jeff Parker surfing maxing Todos in 1983, on a short board.

Who charged Fish 🐟 Taco 🌮 Island? I got my @ the 7:15 mark 🤙

Nice video👍

This is a good video.

Yesterday on Oahu, Da Eddie would go was ON. I is from Hawaii 😎 the island of Oahu and size of The Waves was 30-35 ft. 🌊🏄👣🤙

So good.

Beautiful

All I need is some tasty waves, cool buds, and I'm fine. -Jeff Spicoli

What was the stirring sound byte playing during Greg Long’s big wave?

Awesome.

DUDE, I'M TOTALLY GRATEFUL AND BLESSED TO SEE THE OCEAN ON SUCH A BENDER IN THE ZONE, DUDE. DUDE, IT'S TOTALLY TODOS. OUT.

I am in awe of these people. It just looks terrifying to me!

That is crazy.

Very nice,lived so cal 61 years .yes this is top 3 depending where u are at up north I heard was massive but unrideable

So they got on a boat at 2:30 am from San Diego and reached Todos Santos, which is 1000 miles away, by sunrise?

Epic!!

69' and 82'

I’ve been in the NICU with my daughter over the past month and have ridden zero waves. I hope to hear some epic stories after we are out of here.

@happythepitbull7363

Жыл бұрын

Prayers 🙏 for your baby

Blessed 🙏🏼🤙🏽

Yeah I was in Hawaii last weak and Waimea bay was pumping super hard

Winter 1988 at El Porto, Manhattan Beach ca. was Waimea bay at its best day, and I’ve got dozens of pictures to prove it, 50ft 60ft at peak faces, only just a few were brave enough to try, it was huge! It was epic a couple of weeks ago as I compare it to the photos I have, winter 1988 in SoCal was epic, I was down in Todos santos a month ago and only wish I had planned it a month later.

@kevinknives6369

Жыл бұрын

Well, since you say you have proof, we have no choice but to believe you.

It's been slamming here in Santa Barbara, unbelievable!!!

"Oh God, thy sea is so great, and my boat is so small" Breton Fisherman's Prayer, posted in Surfer Mag in the early 70's with a huge wave behind it. Vice Admiral Hyman G. Rickover presented a plaque with this prayer on it to President John F. Kennedy and it is in the JFK Library and Museum in Boston Ma.

Holy moly, Greg is gonna be up for an XXL!

I surfed todos at 20’ and perfect. I think the big drop is great and scary but I prefer a waves with shape . I just go to Porto Escondido now it must be huge now . I still remember my best wave of my life. Jumped off the pier in Oceanside California because the paddle out was horrendous 15 to 20 foot riding a 6’8 sunset swallow tail single fin . Me and my partner just looked at each other a huge set was looking right at us everyone was tired from paddling out, we were scratching hard I turned around took a steep drop into to a 15 foot barrel I must’ve been in there for 10 seconds came out made the inside section all the way to the life Gaurd tower . I just sat on the bench smiling watching this massive swell

@mozdickson

Жыл бұрын

Never start a comment with I.

@JohnSmith-js3po

Жыл бұрын

@@mozdickson why

@mozdickson

Жыл бұрын

@@JohnSmith-js3po I said so! 😅

@JohnSmith-js3po

Жыл бұрын

must have went to UCLA 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂because you said so that’s what a professor would say from that awful institution

So sad i got injured omw to surf. Let's hope more big waves coming soon

I've never been on a surfboard. But I'm a long-time body-surfer who remembers the swells off Santa Monica in late August of 1973. The waves were nothing like what you see here - I wouldn't have been out there if they had been - but they were much better than anything I'd seen on the Maryland and Jersey shores, and I couldn't get off the beach. They were perfect for body-surfing, not monstrously big, but powerful, shaped just right and breaking far enough from shore where you wouldn't break your neck in a wipe-out. I was disappointed when I returned to California in 1975 (at Zuma Beach), expecting a similar experience I had enjoyed two years earlier. But it was not to be. The waves were anemic, the surf relatively placid. Nature moves on its own time, not ours.

If you are looking for big swells, move to Okinawa southern outer islands. Here we have an average of 2 to 3 typhoons a month, from July to end of October.

Them guys are crazy

Great stuff. Thanks for sharing!

I live in Baja California, Mexico and it's just the same thing everyone else is reporting in Southern California

Any report about Salt Creek (just south of South Laguna)? Did it break in this swell? In the early seventies I remember a couple days with a big well ordered winter west swell it broke about 1.5 miles off the point in a pretty good left. Hard to get past the shore break and there were only a few of us out there (scared), it was epic.

@afveteran

Жыл бұрын

Hey Randy ! Good for you "old surf brother! Now your talking! About the fun times!

@toddbefield1100

Жыл бұрын

North end salt creek very solid...bigger than the epic 2/24/08 swell (I was stoked to make surfline on that one...pic #21 under "west coast goes off again") but a little too much straight west in this one with more close outs on the inside.

I saw this once in Barbados , the waves trashed beach houses and i got munched by the biggest wave i ve ever seen

How did the boat get on the beach? Navigator error?

Even those small waved have a lot of power