My ice partner and I have always done the Yosemite to keep things looking clean. I've started to just manage the amount of tail I have and typically end up with right around what you have. This was a great video!

@Josstrigaming

Жыл бұрын

I believe a large portion of climbing gyms also use the Yosemite as a backup. I know the one I go to does, just to get the tail out of the way and add a small amount of redundancy.

Thanks for helping to kill the bad habit of ”backing up the fig 8”. The fig 8 has built in redundancy in that the tail is already threaded an extra time. Keeping things simple saves time, saves rope, makes inspection easier and helps us focus on more important things.

CWA wants you to have between 6" and 8" tail... if you can tie a stopper not at the end, (really close - what we teach) then you're 100% certain you have a long enough tail. I personally end up just doing a Yosemite finish. (But today I learned - from you about the "built-in" backup in the figure 8 - and I've been climbing over 35 years lol)

Thanks for making these videos Ryan. You are a good instructor. Please keep them coming.

When I lived down in Bothell, exit 38 was my go to for quick short routes. Across I90 has some fun stuff also. I miss it down there in western Washington. Jealous ; )

I prefer the really short tail as that keeps it out of the way and as you've said no tail at all is still as strong.

insight a revolution at the gym you say ..... :)

Thank you! I've always wondered why it's going away.

Regarding the finisher knot that's tied like really far away from the actual figure 8 follow-through: I've heard arguments against it, because it could easily smack you in the face when taking a fall. So there's another reason not to use them 🙂 Thanks for the great content, as always! Super informative and well explained stuff on your channel!

I'm a relatively new climber but my background is in sailing. Lots of knots there. I cannot see how a figure eight tied like this could ever come undone. I've been bemused by instructors insisting I tie this stopper knot at the end. I don't argue but it feels very redundant and unnecessary.

I’ve moved away from the Yosemite as I feel it’s actually (sometimes annoyingly) harder to untie after some falls, as opposed to a nice clean 8 with no finish. Nice video Ryan!

@xchinvanderlinden

Жыл бұрын

Same. And it is more likely to pull the caps off your rope ends as you untie.

@tophmyster

Жыл бұрын

All of my mates like to use what we call the "ripcord" (not sure of its actual name) when we climb indoors. Basically a yosemite, but thread the tail back through the same spot so you end up with a small loop where the tail would normally be on the yosemite, and then put the tail through that loop. Obviously pull tight to dress. What it does is when you finish climbing, you just push the tail out of that loop and pull the tail as hard as you can, as soon as that loop comes through the figure eight it creates a bit of space in that bottom loop of the 8 that (when not loaded) makes the knot super easy to untie. Definitely not best practice, but if you're looking for functionality it's great

@trailslippah

Жыл бұрын

Its harder to untie because youre tying your figure 8 correctly lol. A figure 8 tied correctly pulls tight on the bottom on a fall. "Start hard finish easy". Everyone ignores this till they take a hard lead or some times TR fall and look like an idiot trying to untie

Hi, in UK I would say just about all gyms require you to use the fig 8 with stopper knot. Some even have floor walkers inspecting knots! It does annoy me as outdoors I use bowline for sport but fig 8 josemite finish for trad. I've had many a discussion with gym managers and sometimes it's like talking to a brick wall.

@trailslippah

Жыл бұрын

tell them to stop ignoring science lol

@paulhyland7637

Жыл бұрын

@@trailslippah it's nothing to do with science it's that the Fig 8 is easily recognisable when done correctly or (k) not.!!!

@trailslippah

Жыл бұрын

Sure it does, as you said it’s very recognizable when tied correctly and all the test show that a “safety” knot does nothing to improve safety. I see more people use a safely knot because no one has ever shown them how to measure and tie a figure 8 with a proper tail length.

I just shove the end of the follow-though into the middle of the fig8 to give me an easy pull for untying. Don't at me.

Laying the follow-through in the correct direction, dressing and tightening the four strands by hand, the 8 is simply not going to loosen - and if a stiff slippery rope did manage to begin the tail migration, it is always right there in front of you where you are working with the belay loop, devices, PAS, etc. 8 inches is accepted in International comps. Done.

Where should I go to look at booking you as a guide?

@ryantilley9063

Жыл бұрын

The easiest way is just to email me Ryanguide8@gmail.com, I want to get a website going soon that’ll have more listings too!

Yosemite finish ftw

Scaffold knot fails if the wrong end is sliding, and is easy to do.

It s more to get rid of the excess rope. I dont like a figure 8 with only 10cm of tail.

@johnliungman1333

Жыл бұрын

You are fine with a short tail. Make your knot tight and there is no way the tail slips. And even if it slips all the way through the knot is full strength. Keep it simple! 😊

The whole of the UK ties a stopper knot after the figure 8 as standard. If you can tie the stopper then the tail must be long enough. Secondly when trad climbing here we belay from the rope loop rather than the belay loop. This cross loads the figure 8 knot so the stopper knot does add to the strength of the system. I've heard people say you don't need a stopper knot but still haven't heard a downside to using one

@ingluv

Жыл бұрын

Do I understand you correctly, both the climber and belayer tie in with a figure 8, then the belayer clips into the loop on the 8? Interesting difference. Do your harnesses also come with a belay loop?

@jamesclark6257

Жыл бұрын

@@ingluv harness has a belay loop and we use that on sport climbs and auto belay. On trad, both climbers tie in with a figure 8. The belayer will normally clips the belay carabiner and atc in on the rope loop that's tied to the harness (I think the ideal is it will be softer on the gear if the lead falls as the rope is dynamic). The lead climber will put gear in and climb to the top. Most of our trad in the UK is single pitch. The lead will build an anchor at the top and sit with their legs over the edge and belay from the loop they tied in with, which is also what the anchor is attached to. If the second will start climbing and remove the gear. If the second falls then the load effectively goes on anchor and the knot is cross loaded. As it's single pitch we don't use guide mode on the atc but this method means the load doesn't go on the lead climber when they are belaying who is sitting on the edge. Forgot to mention that trad climbs in the UK don't have bolts at the top. The lead climber always tops out

Dude this is a good video but its way too long, i wouldve watched the whole thing but you just repeated yourself a bunch. Good info though just more edits

Ropes are so out of style these days. just don’t fall!

Halfway through the video and I've already had to get through six ads!!