You missed one important point - that the consumer doesn't want anything different. The vast majority of clothes buyers want 1) the same thing they've had before or 2) something that someone else has. With, as you said, small details changed. They don't want to be different or to stand out or to wear novel silhouettes or fabrics. So fast fashion (which is ALL retail fashion) caters to this customer. It's a vicious cycle.

@inkarlcerating

2 жыл бұрын

This is so true! Most people don’t really wana stand out. 👏🏼👏🏼

@erikalily4944

2 жыл бұрын

True! Everyone wants to fit in! So they dress like everyone else.

@BEe-hi4my

2 жыл бұрын

On the one hand I completely agree with you, people can be risk averse. But to say that people don’t want to be different? I just don’t think that’s true. I think the strength of Bliss’ video is that he looked at the structural environment of clothing production. I believe there is also a structural environment for desire. Why aren’t people sartorially different? Many reasons but probably not because they don’t want to be. There are many factors that impede radical standout, which might explain why people go for the details (affordability and less time consuming). The fact that people bother with details here and there to me shows that they do care about individualisation. (Though on the other hand let’s not forget That normcore came up as (an ironic) radical statement against obsessive individuality). I could write a multiple volume series on why people want to dress different but can’t (or find it very difficult). Consider the fact that clothing is both a means of expression but also recognition. It can be hard to let your freak flag fly when you know it might cost you socio economic advancement (and at the end of the day you need to eat; have somewhere to sleep and maybe even enjoy leisurable activites, more than you need a cool fit). When most people spend time in an office meaning the bulk of their clothes investment is for a specific culture…it’s not surprising most people dress boring. Also some people invest their individuality elsewhere than in clothing (as Bliss also said) and I can’t blame them. It’s not just that people are uninventive; they might have different priorities. (Consider the fact that the tell tale sign of a fashion designer is how uniformy/bland they dress - they have other things To think about).

@artusyeddou5792

2 жыл бұрын

definitly true, but how can the average consumer want new things if there isnt ?

@MollyPorter

2 жыл бұрын

@@artusyeddou5792 that’s the definition of a vicious cycle.

One of the reasons I love historical fashion is that it looks so different from what you can buy today - but it's still practical, it was created and evolved to be worn by regular people every day. And it's fun to make!

@percaelumvolo

2 жыл бұрын

So practical, and fine-tuned over generations of sewists across time and place to evolve into a very useful form!

@verybarebones

2 жыл бұрын

Practical for the life back in the period, yeah. Not very practical now.

@brookb6488

2 жыл бұрын

@@verybarebones It may not be for you, but I live in New England, so during 10 degree winters I think a full length wool skirt with everything i need in the giant pockets is plenty practical

@moongem4489

2 жыл бұрын

@@verybarebones But which time period, culture, and class are you thinking of that you assume it's not practical? Maybe an 18th century French ballgown isn't practical for everyday modern wear, but considering all the types of clothing that have been worn since the dawn of human history, there have to be some that a modern person could comfortably wear out and about.

@muurrarium9460

2 жыл бұрын

and is also bloody impractical in modern days to wear. (At least women's clothing for a lot of eras is.)

Buying less and buying second hand has allowed me to buy fewer but better pieces of clothing, has allowed me to slowly build a really nice wardrobe. Between me and my fast-fashion loving partner, we spend about the same each year, but while she cycles clothes in and out of her wardrobe, I've reached the point where I'm basically just replacing pieces that have fallen apart, or pieces I have sold. This has had the side effect of me really valuing and loving the pieces I own because I've put more effort and emotional weight into finding and caring for them. In that way, I get more pleasure form wearing the clothes I have, and I produce less waste. It's net positives all the way around.

@Irishjay-gu5pb

2 жыл бұрын

That's really beautiful! That's what I strive to get to, I'm really happy for you that you're there!!! It's got to feel really rewarding! And amazing!!!

@ming2158

2 жыл бұрын

Really good for you to do that!

@giancassa9340

2 жыл бұрын

Exactly!! When you find clothing that has an emotional trait behind it. It is a pleasure to use it. Good for you mate.

@joylox

2 жыл бұрын

Honestly, my favourite shirt, is one I've had for about 7 years, and while it did cost around $60 just for a jersey long sleeve off the shoulder shirt, it's made with Canadian bamboo rather than cheap cotton, and it still feels just as soft! The guy who sold it to me said bamboo can last around 20 years and still be like new, so it's off to a good start. In a year, the only clothes I'll really buy are underwear, socks, and maybe a pair of shoes or boots, as those things tend to wear out quickly. That being said, I'm trying to transition into making more of my own stuff, so I try not to buy things that I could easily make to fit me better. No point in buying something and getting it tailored when I could just make it the right shape/size to begin with, at least that's how I feel now I'm comfortable using an old sewing machine I got when my grandmother passed. Beautiful machine from the 70s and it will sew through just about anything.

@gergo7507

2 жыл бұрын

@@joylox I really think you should at least just try on some good quality leather shoes, they can be quite expensive but they are worth the price in my opinion, because they can be resoled, making them last a really long time.

As a designer, I learned to not put my ideas in a box, or a “block”. That the possibilities are truly endless and there are people out there who are ready to wear something they’ve never seen before

@DavidKing-iy1yk

2 жыл бұрын

lol yeah look at yeezy some of his shoes are pretty unique but they still sell. Also with his clothing line he introduced a new style of swag to a generation or at least thats what it feels like. Brought some high fashion influences to the general pop.

@Charliethesniperkid

2 жыл бұрын

This is what I always need to hear. Getting moving, believing in your own vision is one of the hardest things for me. Luckily being surrounded by people recently who believe in what I do has pushed me further, in the great words of Bliss Foster “the world deserves to see your vision”.

In the 50’s my grandma was working for a clothes designer in Paris but not in the haute couture segment just in a normal tailor shop and she was saying that the material used now (that was 20 years ago ) was the material they were using for lining. For somebody like me not in fashion I always found it was a very visual explanation to understand how quality dropped in 50 years .

@redfullmoon

Жыл бұрын

It's the same for a lot of things - furniture, housing, house decor etc.

@kingk2405

Жыл бұрын

@@redfullmoon Agree ! Look at the kitchen appliances designed NOT to last . My parents had an American washing machine , a big bulky and ugly one that looks like the one in the launderettes but completely indestructible . They brought it to the Middle East and Africa for 20 years , half of the time it was outside under extreme heat or humidity . Never had a problem with it . Nowadays if any of your appliances last more than 5 years people will say you are the lucky one who did not buy one build on a Friday !

Lol I had this discussion with my church homies, cause we thrift and donate a lot of our OG garms, but as of late we realized the quality of charity donations has been terrible H&M and SHEIN bro. People used to donate trench coats made by hand for soldiers now we basically giving them plastic

@percaelumvolo

2 жыл бұрын

Plastic :(

@josedealva4205

2 жыл бұрын

we basically breathe and eat plastic, its the future!

@BlueRoseFaery

2 жыл бұрын

Yeah, every time I go thrifting I find tons of Shien & Wish & similar stuff. The good quality vintage stuff is only sold at vintage boutiques, or estate sales if you're lucky. And at vintage boutiques they're curated by the seller to fit a specific aesthetic & they charge way more, so you're less likely to find variety & instead of thrift store prices you're paying H&M prices, and that's if the sellers don't "upcycle" the vintage stuff by shredding it & turning a good quality vintage jacket or shirt from a functional piece of clothing into something that's only value is as an accessory. I'm not fully against it, but I think it should be reserved for items at the end of their lifespan, when they've already got too many holes & stains to decently mend, not like new vintage denim jackets being shredded into nothing but fringe, that could have actually kept someone warm.

@joylox

2 жыл бұрын

Funny story, I actually just traced a pair of pants from H&M that I got at a thrift store because I like them, but they're too small. But yeah, some of the stuff just isn't worth it. I found a few nice pairs of jeans at thrift stores, but it's getting harder to find quality. Even with making stuff, it's hard to get good fabric at the stores to make quality stuff out of. It's so thin and synthetic, or has elastic that will stretch out over time. So I tend to buy old sheets at thrift stores, and turn them into dresses. I cosplay, so I've done a few video game character outfits out of sheets. It makes me feel better about making costumes when I know it's stuff that wasn't going to get used anyway.

After working in the fashion industry for over 20 years as a designer, pattern-maker and grader , this video resonates loudly to the absolute determination of fashion brands to drive down price. I worked for a chain store supplier, and we started with the sale price the store determined and designed back from that. Everything down to the cost of the wash label was factored and trimmed down in every way to achieve the end price. I am now a conscious second hand fashionista, and like you love to buy vintage. I left the fashion industry before the real fast fashion trend took hold.

It is so frustrating. I used to design shoes and be involved in the production process only to find myself re-designing, scaling down my design, revamping my vision into a whole different look just because the company is concerned that a new pattern or newer heel compound will cost more. I do understand the money side since profit is the magic word in all business. That’s why it’s so frustrating. For the consumer’s side, yes there are still a majority of them who are motivated to buy a “similar” item that they had 2 or 5 yrs ago. I work in retail and I often hear ppl buy stuff because they saw it from a friend or it was worn by this “internet person”. People are creature of habits and they tend to repeat and repeat. They might buy new stuff from Target etc every season but check their shopping bags, and it’s all the same knit jumpers for winter or white denim pants for summer. I must add most of us are also forgetful about our purchases. We think we dont have enough but we actually do have a mountain of stuff. Right now , I feel reassured that I only buy pieces that are “special” and having a miniscule apartment and closet are what stops me from buying too much. So good!

@muurrarium9460

2 жыл бұрын

Most 'design' shoes ignore that fact that shoes are meant to be walked in. It is easy to 'draw something nice/interesting looking', but usually those things are disgusting to wear. And right now "the real fashion" is all about respecting the natural shape of your foot, respect its functionality and movement and not killing your feet (and mobility) in the name of fashion. So I think you are out of luck in this era! Try earrings...

@muurrarium9460

2 жыл бұрын

@@inkarlcerating I am pretty sure you weren't. :) It takes a few years of study (anatomy, physiology, biomechanics etc.) to really appreciate the design and subtle functions of the foot-structures. How every single ligament has a function that gets hindered by a shoe that is too tight or tough or a smallish bone that gets constricted and can no longer make this tiny rotational slide that ensures the owner of the foot can get though life pain free. Even experts are still not sure about whether even low heels are a good thing or not ;). Most designers are amazing creative people \o/ who tend to ignore the reality of daily life and functionality that is required... Nothing wrong with having a catwalk-party en celebrate that creativity and fresh ideas, just don't make 'real' people actually wear it for longer than those few minutes!

@muurrarium9460

2 жыл бұрын

@@inkarlcerating enjoy, boomer

Someone who was raised to care about style, later got into punk rock, and have a fashion sense currently that reflects that, have always found value in thrifting, up-cycling & DIY’s.

@saintwinona

2 жыл бұрын

YES

@leonardo9259

2 жыл бұрын

"man I'm so smart"

Another reason that clothes all look the same is because of herd mentality. Most people *want* to fit in, because standing out could have negative consequences. At the end of the day, fashion is a business, and the product offerings are dictated by what sells. In most cases, for an outlandish avant-guarde designer to survive in the fashion world, they have to offer a selection of mediocre, watered down versions of their avant-garde pieces. The alternative would be to survive off the sales of fragrance and accessories.

@Commentator541

2 жыл бұрын

Correct.

@doncagape5409

2 жыл бұрын

Or you have a diffusion line that supports the higher end one. In the case of Emperio Armani and Giorgio Armani

@doncagape5409

2 жыл бұрын

Or you have a diffusion line that supports the higher end one. In the case of Emperio Armani and Giorgio Armani

@LucasFernandez-fk8se

2 жыл бұрын

What’s wrong with wanting NICE NORMAL CLOTHES?

@demuredandy

2 жыл бұрын

@@LucasFernandez-fk8se You've totally missed the point of the conversation. No one is saying that nice normal clothes are bad in any way. The whole point of this video is to explain why there's a lack of unique, avant-garde fashion.

As a dressmaker, one also has to think about the laundering, pressing, and storage/hanging after the garment has been created. The slightly-different-sameness is most practical because of its efficiency to iron and reshape after it has been laundered. You’d need a very specialized dry cleaner/garment restorer to maintain something like the avant-garde Rick Owens piece. Steam irons, ironing boards, hangers are all typically the same standard shapes and the training (to learn how to take care of clothing) is also standardized- it’s relatively simple to press a rtw shirt or pants once you learn the method to do it because the cuts and patterns are already so flat. Simple custom clothing (couture and made-to-measure) is already hard enough to maintain without the right equipment (sleeve boards, hams, etc) because of the very specific shaping that goes into it during the construction- contouring that could be distorted or lost if not taken care of properly between uses.

this is why I started making clothes; better cuts, handmade and cheap is what I’m going for

@samuelschwartz2324

2 жыл бұрын

@Laurin Raphael Go for it! It might take a while to get good at it but it's a really rewarding process.

@summisherchan5783

2 жыл бұрын

Me too Liam, I am learning it too,,,

@escherita

Жыл бұрын

Everyone should learn to sew. Take it slow, don't rush. Enjoy the process.

I think you’ve confused the idea of a block pattern with standardized patterns. The reason large factories end up making variations on designs was, I thought, due to how clothes are ordered. Aka, a factory has specialized their equipment or training and offer a number of patterns that their staff is trained on or that they already have ready made, either to be printed or potentially even dyed. Changing out something like a draw string is an easy way to make your goods seem different when you’ve actually paid for one of the lowest cost garment production options. Pattern development is very expensive even at a restricted size range, it gets even more expensive if you offer what we would consider today to be a proper size range. You also can’t cleanly scale some designs up to larger sizes because bigger sizes are more than more fabric. Fenty x savage has had some bra size debacles due to not wanting to essentially invest in the sort of pattern development needed to support large cup sizes in anything but a full coverage bra. Block patterns are just base patterns that you can pull infinite modifications off though. The french call this sort of pattern a moulage, which is a word that essentially means a cast of the body. It’s meant to be the designer’s representation of their clients base form. It is simple on purpose, so when they go to turn a bodice block into a knee length dress with a v neck, they just have to draw the lines at the proper places. You can even see companies like eshakti doing made to order clothes with customized features and fit at like relatively cheap prices. The reason people don’t draft their own usually is because you need a really good understanding of how patterns work to do things like manipulate the darts and etc. Block patterns usually start with those 4 standard darts on the front bodice because that’s the best way to fit a garment for a someone with breasts generally. But you can literally rotate them to where ever, you can completely eliminate them by fabric choice, or by really creative design, but also, the more darts and cuts something has, the more steps there are to production. And potentially more fabric you waste in the process, which increases costs. And these business models are based on volume. If they could produce avant grade without 12 hours of sewing required per garment, I’m sure they would. I’m also not a huge fan of the idea that machines are doing most of the work in any way. These garments largely aren’t machine made. Industrial machines are just very reliable, function limited home sewing machines. They do exactly one stitch or operation like tacking usually, but they do it incredibly reliably. But the sewing machine operator is fully responsible for what results come out of the other end. It’s very much a hand process though. Every single garment you own has definitely had like at least 5 pairs of hands on it to get it to your door. The reason people are so comfortable paying so little for clothes these days is probably partially due to how divorced most people are from the process of their clothes being produced.

@angellover02171

2 жыл бұрын

One thing not mentioned is many factories offer pattern making and block making. the more time spent on making the pattern add added to the service. In order to making things cheaper many Chinese factories add price of the pattern to the overall cost of the first order but they then own the pattern. So if you chose to go with another factory then you will have to buy the pattern or pay for someones else to make a new pattern. It's cheaper and easier to just use premade patterns and let the details, colors, and fabric quality make items seem different

I loved this video. I agree with the fast fashion points that you made, it’s truly terrible but I also want to say, luxury fashion is just as ridiculous in it’s on way. It’s still seasonal collections of way too many looks that look the same, extremely overly priced for the quality that you are getting, most don’t even sell and end up being destroyed through fire or all kinds of other methods that also pollute, and so on. Where fast fashion sells you one kind of fantasy, high fashion sells you another one. While I do support high fashion over fast fashion, I would rather have people support smaller brands, local brands or get their clothing made to measure at a local seamstress. And yes, invest in few quality pieces rather than lots of poorly made pieces. You don’t need 15 black blazers that look just slightly different, you can do with 2 or 3 really good, special ones, especially if you are not a ‘fashionista’.

I'm actually resewing my old clothes and tailoring them in such a way that I want to wear them. And I think everyone should do that. Since I started sewing myself I have gained a lot of respect for the work of the people sewing them.

In my opinion a million times more rewarding finding a more unique piece that draws you into it and you know you won’t find very often for that price or even again if it’s more rare. Going on the hunt with an open mind just looking for anything to draw you and finally finding something that sparks you is one of the most rewarding feelings

@Commentator541

2 жыл бұрын

True, bit at the same time I want to wear the clothes I have, so everything has to ft in with everything else and that narrows down your choices once you’ve settled on a style.

I‘m in a transition of buying new fast fashion clothes every season to buying „expensive“ clothes with decent quality. I‘m really glad that I‘ve met someone who has changed my way of thinking about fashion.

@Beteljess

2 жыл бұрын

I’m curious, you were really buying new sets of clothes every season? Like 5 items or more? If so I didn’t realize people actually were doing that regularly. (I don’t mean this in negative way I just don’t have many friends/ know many people)

@heriette

2 жыл бұрын

@@Beteljess Not the comment you were replying to, but I personally used to buy like 2-3 new items every season, either to replace no longer wearable clothes or because I was missing something in my wardrobe or honestly because I succumbed to a trend. Big change in my shopping habits came when I learned how to take care of my clothes properly - replace broken zippers, mend tears, wash at appropriate temperatures (or not at all! wool can be just spot cleaned and ventilated in most cases) or alter to fit me better. I also started to sew, which made me learn more about materials and choose better materials for certains types of situations. Honestly, I don't think that fast fashion clothes are bad necessarily, I have stuff from H&M that I bought back in high school some 10 years ago and they are indestructible. I also had stuff from H&M that started to unravel within the first month.

@Beteljess

2 жыл бұрын

@@heriette that super cool I would like to learn how to sew to mend tears. Just bought a small sewing kit. My biggest trouble is my black clothes that just seem to fade no matter what. I use cold water and "delicates" soap. I'm wondering about redyeing...

@heriette

2 жыл бұрын

​@@Beteljess Redyeing works well on natural fibers and is actually pretty easy. Probably don't dye delicate materials though because you usually need to put it through high temperatures in the process. Synthetics are tough to dye, I've read that there are special dyes for that, but I haven't tried it myself. Also best of luck with your sewing kit!

@tagtraumerin5077

2 жыл бұрын

@@heriette Same! I used to go shopping because of peer pressure. There are many false assumptions like „you can‘t repeat party outfits“. I‘m currently working in a psychiatry (internship for nursing school). It’s a good opportunity to donate old clothes as there are often poor or homeless patients who are happy when they get something else than op shirts.

I'm not in a position where I can save any money so I only buy thrifted clothes a couple times a year. But as an aspiring designer I also make my own clothes. That has helped me shape my view of fast fashion more than anything. If I'm selling to others I want to be paid fairly for my work so why would anyone else be different.

I've always loved fashion, now studying, sealing and designing my own clothes (even dreaming about having my own brand) I realized that every design is the same. It really terrifying see it, I don't wanna end up doing something that already exist. When I was drawing, I made a really extravagant clothe and thought about make it more normal, to not shock people on the streets lol but I realized that it is what is killing the fashion, everything is street wear, and is the same just to follow the pattern of people expectations, to kill individuality for that being considered strange. We are not trying to be free and express ourself throught our clothes, fashion design is about it, make yourself a piece of art. Is boring everything being the same.

The clothes I want simply aren't being made anymore, in an affordable or sustainable way for me, so I'm teaching myself drafting, and learning sizing up and down, because then I get to create EXACTLY what I want. And with menswear, it's the subtleties, although I absolutely choose to use the same pattern to make multiple garments in different colors, and it also allows me to take time to really figure out what I want, and how I want it

With any self expression, there's the desire to both fit in and stand out. So it's easy to justify graphic t-shirts with 10000 different prints since you are "safe" wearing a t-shirt and "unique" wearing a fun design.

It has probably already been mentioned but high fashion is not necessarily made under good working conditions. That said, the quality of the garments is usually better and thus longer lasting. I'm curious about sustainability and the future of fashion. Maybe you could venture into that some time? With the capitalist principle in check though, I don't see when fast fashion will end. Also your message is true, I've been fast fashion free for some time now and it's good. My wardrobe grows really slow, but I've pieces worn for a few years and often in the same combination but hey, they still do it. That is why you should buy good basics, they last you and make a backbone.

I keep going back to this, but it took me 3 weeks to choose one pair of new shorts. In that, I'd 1) purchased with purpose, in that I'd seen nearly all the new shorts in that category already and chose the ones that spoke to me and 2) instead of buying 3-4 dupes in that span, I spent it researching clothes (and learned more about them in the process!)

Nobody except me can mean the perfect cloth for me. This is why I start sewing clothes by myself for myself (obviously: the clothes I want that mean something special to me - for my job I limit to wear black t-shirt and a pair of old trousers). My next steps are: dyeing fabrics and knitting.

My style is black minimalism, I'm not even looking for over the top things in every color. Still, it's really hard to find anything that doesn't bore me to death. Add that I like pure natural materials, comfortable cuts, am a shortie with limited budget. So I make my own pieces from 2hand cloth and items. It's not that hard, just time consuming.

As a goth, I thrift, buy, create, modify clothes into unique stuff that is just different from anything I've owned before. My clothes last me years upon years because a hole or a visible mend only adds to the character of the garmen and I fully believe that the clothes that I have will last me at least another 10 years.

@chrisvfx5098

8 ай бұрын

i feel this comment sm

The ending about clothes consumption is something that I think is really important, and something that I don't think is said enough. When I see discourse about ethics and fashion, it is often in the form of finding ethical replacements for the same consumerist mentality, and I often see lots of people justifying their shein purchase with the claim that ethical fashion is a lot more expensive. Obviously that's true, but I think that taking care of your wardrobe properly and restyling your pieces is so much more valuable than constantly buying new clothes, whether they're fast fashion, thrifted, or ethical. You can still overconsume ethical fashion, and I think that the mindset shift has to be in the amount that we consume rather than what we consume.

It took me so long to notice that its really all about shape. I fell for that "only a logo on the sleeve" thing for so long. I shopped at zumiez, h&m and forever 21 until I got really bored. Then I fell into the streetwear scene, things like bape and supreme; which both have elevated interesting designs compared to fast fashion but are not really formally inventive or different. I havent ascended the fashion mountain top and started buying wild Rick pieces but I've become much more calculated with what I buy and I really try to pay attention to quality, fit and shape, those are the things that will make a piece last and truly stand out. That being said I'm really interested to get one of the Yeezy Perfect Hoodies that just came out, the shape looks unique from usual mass produced hoodies and it seems all the focus of that garment was put there. Although it's not the most accessible piece right now its cool to see something made with fit and shape as the focus as opposed to a logo.

@lilyungtoaster1304

2 жыл бұрын

check out gosha if you like weird hoodies

@morganslade1958

2 жыл бұрын

@@lilyungtoaster1304 will do. Thanks.

Until today, I had no idea that "high fashion KZread" was a thing. The internet never ceases to amaze me with its endless corners and communities

reading Overdressed by Elizabeth Cline was the ultimate wake up call and history lesson on fast fashion. great video, gonna checkout the modeliste channel!

I already hated shien for stealing artists work! Now I've got another reason to hate them lmao. Awesome video!

honestly the 180 i had with avidly purchasing fast fashion to buying none of it at all in the last year is mostly thanks to you. i have religiously watched at least one of your videos a day for the past few months, and i gained so much perspective. will be watching all your videos to come and hope to be able to support you on patreon soon 🙏🙏💞

Your comment on pattern drafting is pretty accurate! I’m actually studying fashion design and I’ve remade the exact same blocks a number of times just so that the teacher has more to grade us on. Granted it does take practice to get better and I do see my blocks are a lot cleaner than my original ones but I feel like it would teach us even more if we where shown these crazy pattern drafting techniques. I’ve even gone out to get specialty pattern books on my own terms and am teaching myself more on my own time just to scratch the itch I have to progress in my techniques and methodology. All this to say it even goes as far back as the way we are thought fashion is by basically replicating pre-existing work.

@codebrker24

2 жыл бұрын

Fashion School prepares you to work for someone else. I found that out. Continue to do what you are doing on your own. This will help you to create Couture pieces for yourself and your clients.

it meant so much to me when you said if you are buying clothes cause you like clothes, it is worth waiting for the good stuff. it really helped me concrete my views on not buying fast fashion after being in a dilemma of whether I should just satisfy my craving or be more mindful about it

@BlissFoster

2 жыл бұрын

I know from experience, it’s worth it to wait 💫💫

Love these video Bliss! The inserted footage does a great job illustrating your points. Btw to anyone thinking about supporting the Patreon, I highly recommend. With balancing everything in life, I am not able to tune in to as many of the Patreon exclusives as I would like, but it is still great to support such a meaningful creator.

Wow bliss, you really spoke to me in this video. I couldn’t agree more! You’re literally my favourite channel on KZread, Amazing context as usual :)

Your energy is truly vibrant and clear for me to get excited about my upcoming BA thesis. Your energy that you put into the videos is just right in the enthusiasm level and this is an excellent mirror for me at this moment in time!!✨🔥

I am a fashion designer... you speak the truth. I'm working on teaching people about capsule wardrobes that are vibrant statement-making that are comfortable with my brand.

I never really bought "fast fashion"... expect a garment to last through multiple wearing and washing over several years. However, I found that my favourite brands were discontinuing the clothes I liked (Boden used to have basically the same garments year after year, just in different prints); so got back into sewing! I don't find I save any money compared to buyinmg ready-made clothes, but get much better quality fabric, and better finishes (because I have the time to hand finish my seams etc.). The best bit is walking through the grocery store in a dress that I've pretty much designed myself (starting from a pattern, but modifying it), and getting women coming up to me going "I love your dress"! Can really see how even the mid-price High Street brands are cutting costs, by being skimpier in cut, and less generous in swoosh (I like full skirts).

I know we're talking about clothes but your last line got me thinking about relationships. In a way, I have a relarionship with my clothes too. some are just really good for the long run, it includes accessories too. I used go buy so many accessories and watches but have settled for classic pieces that go with anything and will last me a lifetime. If only people would have the same thinking because the amount of cheap clothing waste is alarming, not to mention the conditions laborers have to endure so that we can buy those clothes for cheap

great video, as usual ! i really gotta start pushing myself to comment more often, because everything you post has such a quality level... Thankful everyday that ypur channel exists, Bliss, and i mean it

Spot on. I learned a lot. You aren’t asking but just to share , when I was 26 I decided to design my shirts, suits, jackets, coats etc and had them tailored. I buy fabric, stock them up and when I have more money, have them made into clothes. Now I am 41 and I have a wardrobe of only bespoke clothing and I enjoy nods on the train, compliments from strangers , admiration from my jealous colleagues and of course a lot of confidence in knowing that I wear clothes I love that were made for me and that I did not gain weight because they still fit me. End of story.

@BlissFoster

2 жыл бұрын

I always love comments like this 😌 thanks for sharing 💫💫

Ive been binge watching all your vids bliss since i discovered your channel recently and its been the highlight of my year! im trying to get into fashion properly and i cant think of a better person to guide me there

A lot of the runway looks aren't practical to wear in everyday life, that's the most obvious answer for why they aren't made. a very structured puffy shoulder for example, can't be layered and you can't wear a jacket over it, this limits it's wearablility to very few occasions, depending on your lifestyle of course, but I would guess the majority don't have that kind of lifestyle. These runway looks are really more of an indulgence in my opinion about our fantasy selves. Speaking about innovation, I think clothes used to be made to be more practical, and that's where the innovation was focused. Those very details that made clothes useful and utilitarian I would argue are some of the details we most admire today, long after the use for them is gone. Think about the styles people like to wear, moto boots when they aren't riding motorcycles, etc... There was a time when you could tell a persons job by what they wear, or what they spent the majority of their time doing, based on their outfit. that's not gone totally but the need for it has diminished. Everyone's a "poser" now, and just because you wear a band shirt, doesn't mean you even like that band. On one hand I love the freedom of expression, on the other hand it makes me sad seeing people trying to dress up as something they admire because they don't know who they are.

oh my god i needed that message to buy clothes more purposefully. waiting and investing in a nice piece you will wear every day is SO much more worth it than buying something that is five dollars but you can only wear it for one day

Modeliste studio is one of my favorites

Definitely second the notion that it's better to wait than it is to settle when buying clothes. One thing that happens while I wait is that sometimes the article of clothing I want no longer appeals to me at a later point in time, and I'm able to save that money and make a more intentional and interesting purchase towards another piece that better suits my style because I was developing my taste as I waited to buy said garment.

I loved the last bit about how it’s worth it to settle, great stuff man. I often play videos in the shower on my speaker and your talking points are always interesting and keeps me engaged so I don’t fall asleep in the bathroom

I work on the men’s floor at Nordstrom and, I have to say, I feel like this is one inescapable issue I face daily when attempting to sell garments to a consumer. It can be very difficult, and disappointing in all honesty, to run circles around the sales floor showing a customer 5 different plaid button-down shirts from 5 different brands that are all carbon copies of each other. The customers that seem to always stand out to me are those who attempt to buy something that resonates with them on a level much deeper, and at times distant from clothing, (for example, the brand Faherty makes very common menswear garments, but focus on utilizing eco-friendly fabrication and efforts on sustainability). Another gem once again Mr. Foster ✨

@panda5122

2 жыл бұрын

As the consumer it's also frustrating. Going to a department store and having 17 options for a pair of slacks is also overwhelming

If you understand that you will look great when your garments Fit, you have won the battle. My mother taught herself to sew using Vintage Vogue Patterns. At the time, Vogue featured just about all the designers that we crave today. Dior, Missoni, Armani, Givenchy, Donna Karen, Pucci, etc. When you start to work with the patterns, you quickly come to realize that it's fit, print, decoration, and fabric that separate the designers, not the shape. My mother put it this way, "Dawn, the pattern and material do the heavy lifting but it's the fit that makes you stand out".

@yokchew90

2 жыл бұрын

Why doesnt shape define the designer's garment? You are trying to say the shape before fitting on a person doesnt matter because the shape of 1 specific measurement might look different on different person

@percaelumvolo

2 жыл бұрын

Such a good piece of classic fashion advice

During lockdown I picked up my sewing needles for the first time since I was a kid. Part of it was boredom, but the bigger piece was wanting and needing clothing that would fit me well. I'm a short, curvy, busty human with a short waist and a sway back - which translates into no retail block pattern will do the job without extensive alterations. So I'm slowly teaching myself what my Grannies knew by the time they were ten - how to make clothing. Patterns come from the 1930's-50's and the fabric comes from the Village of Value. Inspiration comes from the Cos Tube world that includes people like Bernadette Banner. It's not a solution for everyone. But over the 20th century we lost so much knowledge of how to do things for ourselves - from clothing to gardening... - Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi

Just found you today, I love what your saying about fast fashion. I thrift shop 98.8% of my clothes, shoes, jewelry, housewares, etc. recycle, reuse ! We don’t need to keep by]uying disposable fashion, we need to recycle clothes!

You actually introduced me into higher fashion as a whole, and I am trurly thankful for that. I now know the value of a piece made with purpose and vision. And even though as a 19yo who doesn't have much disposable income i'm still saving up for a hamcus product because I know that it will serve me well. Also thrifting is much more engaging and fun, it's like a little game of trying to find a little pearl in the vastness of used up nonsense. I'll take that over going into a fast fashion shop with mediocre assortment any day.

I'm getting around some of these issues by making my own clothes, and when I do buy clothes they're vintage. Making my own wardrobe is also so freeing as I can make exactly what i want the way i want it. Starting to design and make my own wardrobe is one of the best decisions I've ever made, even with the disabilities i have making it a tonne harder, still one of the best decisions I ever made.

loved this. thank you for putting in work to educate ppl. if we can get more ppl to really holistically understand these systems we've created (and you did a great job hitting all the points) then we can work together tear them down and create something new that values human life and the environment, while giving even more creative freedom to express ourselves thru our clothes than we can even imagine rn.

I literally can't get this video out out of my head... you've opened my eyes and i cant go back

Blessed by the algorithm - after one video I've already subscribed, looking forwards to watching more of your videos!

big reason why I started sewing. I had clothes, but I didn`t like any of them.Also I didn`t find anything on the internet that was in my interest, so I took my clothes and began sewing with them to the point where I could comfortably say "I would wear that"

Flat pattern drafting isn't hard but it's something you got to do. Half way in you will feel like pulling your hair out but after that you will see the garment star to take shape. The basic block can cut put and the darts moved around like crazy. You can also learn to drape and make patterns from the draped clothes. The Closet Historian shows how you take a basic block and change it to suit your needs.

God THANK YOU. This had been in the back of my head forever and I've never quite been able to make these connections. This is the kind of video on this site I appreciate the most.

I have been following you and this channel from almost the beginning (think pin collection video and Helmut Lang veil jeans) I can't believe how far you've come with the production quality.

@BlissFoster

2 жыл бұрын

Wow thank you! I feel like I’m a late-bloomer, but I’m glad ive arrived where I am 😅 And thank you so much for watching for so long, that means a lot to me 💫💫

I love how you focus on sharing the ‘wealth’ like encouraging us to follow others to learn even more…. the more perspectives the better 👏👏👏

💜💜💜 this segment... Super informative. I was thinking this very same thing- I just wasn't sure why I felt this way OR what you call it. You hit the nail on the head!

Omg this was literally the most important thing I heard this week 🥺 I’m currently going through a shopping addiction and trying to change my approach on consuming and this video is just so important. Thx u so much bliss 🥺❤️

@BlissFoster

2 жыл бұрын

I’m so glad it was useful for you, Ramon! 😊 If you’re serious about the shopping addiction, please find help, you’re worth it. There’s a lot of resources online for this 💫💫

Well let me tell you, you know what ypu are talking about! Love the video! Love the way you are thinking! I have a lot of respect for people that are realy connecting fashion to other topics, and are making it a useful content for other people to hear! Keep up the amaizing work!

Love it! very motivational! got to stop buying, and finally starting to feel and understand the fast fashion effects. Choosing to be more conscious about purchases. Really like searching for cool pieces at second hand stores!

THANK YOU so much for this video. It's the exact reason I've gotten into pattern making and spend so much on new clothes!!

This video is giving so much food for thought. Two cents from me: I now buy more statement pieces rather than basics, and they are becoming my basics and it’s making me think about culture and identity in a different way and I love it. Two: I grew up largely in the UK, and having been back to the European continent, I realise how insanely freely people in the UK express themselves. Three (ok three cents, I lied) This video was my fave kind of art: it felt like the form of expression (e.g your outfit haha) also communicated the message. It felt like a Trojan horse in the best way: talking about why things are boring, in a very calm way, and yet left me so stimulated. I’m going to rewatch now. Also I really loved your shirt. The details! Also I’m thinking about the Cerulean lecture from the devil wears prada. Cerulean military jackets haha.

I like your hat, it's very cool! Also congrats, the algorithm doesn't hate you - I got recommended your video without searching you up. I watched a lot of Mina Le so I guess your audience probably overlaps with hers to an extent. Anyway u earned me clicking the subscribe button just with your delightful intro - don't even know what sort of videos you usually make but the personality you express on the internet seems lovely :)

I love your passion for fashion, keep up the best fashion journaling content in the world 😤

Hi Bliss. :) You’re right. I have my own knitwear label; referring to pre-existing patterns and tailoring the patterns to my liking is exactly how I started.

The three brand new clothes in three years line is going to be my inspiration.

I really appreciate you covering this. thank you

As a plus sized woman, I struggle to find second hand things that work well on me but I do get lucky from time to time. I love shopping second hand. Thx for educating folks about cheap and fast fashion.

Loving your channel so much!!

So immensely grateful for your perspective. Thank you

@BlissFoster

2 жыл бұрын

I’m so glad you’ve found the work useful, Ellen 😊

Thank you for doing this that you do Bliss. I think Its something I needed.

Bliss, if you want to focus on a designer who was an innovative pattern maker, look no further than Isabel Toledo. Her patterns were NUTS, lessons in hardcore geometry. There’s a wonderful New Yorker profile of her where she likened her work to “romantic mathematics.” Also, I had the good fortune of seeing an incredible retrospective of her work at the FIT Museum. Please check out that show’s accompanying catalog, “Fashion from the Inside Out.” She was truly one of a kind.

I'm currently wearing a second hand Polo Ralph Lauren sweater. It was slightly faded so I re-dyed it in the washing machine and it looks great again.

@BlissFoster

2 жыл бұрын

Yes! That’s the way to do it 💫💫

@quittenfee42

2 жыл бұрын

@@BlissFoster About 80% of my wardrobe is 2nd hand, but much nicer quality than I could afford otherwise. I'm kind of proud of a wool cardigan that came with 2 tiny moth holes. It was 5 Euro so now that I darned it I have a nice warm garment for less than fast fashion prices.

i love hearing you talk. i fantasize all the time about being rich and famous enough that designers would want to dress me and i’d get to wear all the fun, kooky designs i see on the runway but alas, i am confined to the coolest things i can find at the thrift store and whatever i can diy.

Beautifully put, thank you Bliss :)

Omg where have you been all my life. I am so into these videos, the discourse on fashion rather than showing outfits and not much past that. Any other creators you’d recommend?❤ (or anyone who sees this comment plz direct me thank you!)

This video is excellent! Thank you so much for highlighting the importance of buying less and buying second hand. I’ve been thrifting since I was 16 and I noticed that over the past few years prices at thrift stores have raised significantly with the emergence of resell apps and websites. I think that making second hand clothing inaccessible to average consumers has turned them towards buying fast fashion clothing for cheaper prices too. The gentrification of thrift stores and second hand clothes in this day and age is becoming a problem in which people are beginning to not necessarily care about quality clothing but what clothes are worth purchasing at retail value. I’m hoping I can continue to live by example and shop second hand when I can but I’d love to be a part of a sustainable and ethical solution to these issues and I think it starts by contributing to important discussions like this. Thanks Bliss :)

@lavonnealexander6936

2 жыл бұрын

Tbh , second hand stores are now the same price as fashion stores like Zara and h & m. The only difference is most second hand stores have better quality clothes. Stores like Zara and h & m just have premium clothes which I don’t think is same quality as second hand store designer clothes.

i admire and love what you do for the fashion community and the fashion-interested/adjacent. shining a hard light on the underbelly of the industry is CRITICAL. it has certainly changed the way i shop, and i in-turn spread the word to my friends who hopefully do the same. knowledge is power.

@BlissFoster

Жыл бұрын

Thanks homie! I’m so glad it’s been useful for you 💫💫

i really enjoy these videos, I may join the patreon soon :)

YES!!!!! Buy better, buy less!!!! Or try learning to make it, or reuse them, yes!

Thank you. I appreciate and enjoy these videos

So early! Loved this. It also helps to look at clothing inside/out at shops to see if its constructed poorly. To be fair, I have some old fast fashion pieces from years ago that still wear well because the pattern or fabric was decent. I think its leans into mindful and tactful shopping. A general rule I follow is buying ideally second hand or buying organic fabrics/materials (non man made). That way if something stains or needs repair, it's far easier to address v. Plastic based materials. Also, from a historical perspective, I just think it's way more fun to buy second hand or vintage designer/luxury brands. It's like a window into the past and you get to witness different construction methods and sustainability standards based on year (and in some cases location based on year of production) of make. Example, fnding USA made Levi's or Lee's is an affordable route and honestly those garments last decades. But I'm rambling ha.

okay, i've thought about it a few second ago and i saw your video... thank you for that essay ! i haven't seen interesting clothes for a long time tbh

you seem like someone who genuinely care about fashion and works hard to know the truth behind it...love your videos.

This taught me about being more patient. It's hard to see all the things other people can buy from fast fashion stores, unfortunately for them the clothes will break or lose properties before they can really enjoy the piece. Building a wardrobe with pieces that are better will make you responsible economically, and you will be certain that the pieces last a long time. Sorry English isn't my first language...

Thanks Bliss for teaching me Economics when I should be studying instead of watching this lmao

Loved the message & also that you invested in new camera equipment!

I always learn so much from your videos! Mazel Tov 🙌🏽

I’m subscribing because of this video really loved your thoughts on this topic

All great info, thank you!

Great video. Nearly all my autumn / Winter stuff is second hand. Apart socks and underwear I try to thrift everything. If it has a defect or is to large, just go to a tailor.

Another great video! I definitely relate to waiting to purchase something that you’ve been fixating on. I know it’s not a designer or high fashion category but I am really into the look of nascar T-shirts especially vintage. Mind you I’m not that big of a nascar fan. I just love the esthetics of there shirts. But I’ve had my eye on multiple ones but none just felt right until recently. An African American racer Bubba Wallace won a cup series (he’s the 2nd African American in the history of Nascar to have done so). And bam! I ordered a commemorative one on the spot. It’s a piece of history that will become a great vintage piece 20 years from now and it makes me so very happy. I found the design I love and love the inspirational story behind it. It really does make a world of difference to be patient and wait on that fashion piece that you love!

@BlissFoster

2 жыл бұрын

Ok, this is the coolest vintage graphic tee story I’ve ever heard. I’m so glad you were patient and I’m SO glad it paid off. Congrats! 💫💫

Excellent subject and treatment of that subject. This is why I left the fashion industry almost three decades ago and have since focused on only making garments for myself, perfecting my skills and creating slowly created works of art. I still use the basic set of patterns I created thirty years ago and just continue to modify them. I haven't sewn from a pattern by another person in decades. Because of how I approach fashion and design, I am free to draw from any time period, draw from any influences.Because I can draft and have my own set of patterns that fit me perfectly, I can draft any cut or style off of those base patterns. Fashion and design move to another level when you can completely ignore fashions, trends and markets, and simply focus on the art of creating that suits your personal vision, with consideration for skill and the investment of time required to bring your vision into reality and to gain the skills to continually push your process further.

Lack of clothing variety, in cheaper made clothing is literally a byproduct of the clothing needing to be cheap. I’ve read a lot of books about fashion production shifting out of America, and many designers discussed having every idea stripped down for the sake of cost. It’s too much a risk to do something interesting (from a fast production perspective) for most foreign made fast fashion, the highest cost Is material, not labor . So prices are cut and cut by ditching any detail deemed extra The more mundanity offered , the more it appears that’s all the options , and most people accept that . This is just to add to so many other comments made in this section, I didn’t want to repeat but just add another nuance I read about a lot