Love the mini Thomas as a narrator. Great idea and thanks for taking this much effort in post processing. Your videos, same as CNC kitchen, are always very thoroughly explained and because of that, stay relevant years after filming, even if some technologies march on.

@MadeWithLayers

2 жыл бұрын

Many thanks!

@slicedpage

2 жыл бұрын

The trouble is Thom Thumb will want residuals!

@pteppig

Жыл бұрын

@@slicedpage the statistical residuals would be huge (difference between measurements and estimated value) as in 9/10 of a Sanlander. Royalty residuals would be 🥜, but they seem to live in the same household anyway, so it wouldn't change much in the household income. And yes, I answer rhetorical questions.

@slicedpage

Жыл бұрын

@@pteppig "And yes, I answer rhetorical questions" Who can do it better!

To expand on methods to stick parts together, two topics I'd like to hear about are: creating interlocking features that jam together robustly. And techniques for welding parts together with heat, either by heating one or both surfaces, or by applying hot filler material from say a 3d filament "pen", like MIG welding steel. Oh I guess there's also friction welding.

@jamespray

2 жыл бұрын

Don't forget the wide world of fasteners, as well as compliant snap-locks!

@TheScarvig

2 жыл бұрын

once you include welding type bonds it becomes hard to argue against acetone welding on ABS there are also modelmaking glues that also work that way. dissolve the surface so that the two plastic parts literally become one and then harden again by evaporating the solvent. usability depends on the type of plastic though....

@PTEC3D

2 жыл бұрын

See my other comment re: friction welding. It's easy to get the hang of.

@jacobbobo4670

Жыл бұрын

Yes please!

@youradvertisehere

Жыл бұрын

I actually repair broken prints with a 3d pen and it's very tricky to do. You need to touch/heat both surfaces before you extrude the filter material. Or else it won't transfer enough heat to actually melt everything together. But if you manage to get it done, you end up with sanding a perfekt bond.

Sawdust or baking soda work as great binders and fillers for superglue/cyanoacrylate. Dries instantly and fills out the area.

@joeking433

2 жыл бұрын

I've used baking soda and super glue when filling guitar nut slots that I cut too deep and it hardens like glass!

@spagamoto

2 жыл бұрын

I once did an emergency repair in the office, and Splenda worked very well, too. Almost anything that's a fine powder will work.

@emmettturner9452

2 жыл бұрын

@@spagamoto Did it also seem to instantly cure like it does with baking soda?

@spagamoto

2 жыл бұрын

@@emmettturner9452 Yes it did. Would be interesting to compare the ultimate strength vs other fillers...

@emmettturner9452

2 жыл бұрын

@@spagamoto It seems even water causes a reaction but sodium bicarbonate causes an exothermic reaction that boils off the natural water to cure instantly with a puff of heat and CO². The increased surface area of any granules helps the traditional water reaction go faster too.

Someone did a detailed video on this and found that the rubber infused Loctite Ultra Gel Control Super Glue was by far the best for PLA. I bought some, but it hardened in the container in the many months long delay before I even opened and tried to use it! I've had good luck on PLA parts with minimal gaps using water-thin CA which wicks into the joint.

@UNVIRUSLETALE

2 жыл бұрын

Try storing it in the fridge next, it helps a lot with shelf life for cyanoacrylates

@TheMidnightSmith

2 жыл бұрын

@@UNVIRUSLETALE woah woah woah, for real?

@johnpeters4214

2 жыл бұрын

I use small tubes of Loctite Gel Universal. They last for at least a month after I open them.

@ocieward

2 жыл бұрын

@@johnpeters4214 I also get the small 2g tubes in both gel and “regular”. I love never having to deal with a bottle going hard or all of that buildup at the tip that happens over time

@WhenDoesTheVideoActuallyStart

2 жыл бұрын

@@UNVIRUSLETALE Yes. Store in fridge but let it reach room temperature before using it, otherwise air moisture might dew inside the tube, which means it'll polymerize faster instead of slower

Thank you!!! I love when you do these kind of videos! You're like the only one answering these questions that come up in my head.

Thanks for all the time, materials and effort you put into all your content. Much appreciated.

Was just planning a project and this came out at the perfect time. Thanks!

This is great timing, I'm gluing up a PETG project this weekend. Glad I chose epoxy for the project.

Absolutely love the way you have a question, find different possible solutions, test them, compile data, summarize results. I think this is exemplary of some of your best work on this channel. I would love to see you devise testing jigs for tensile and shear loadings that you talked about. Keep up the good work!

Thank you for running those tests!

Thanks for both getting the data, and going beyond the data to what applications the "bad" tested adhesives are actually good for. Interesting to see the material-related results.

thank you for taking the time to make this video.

Very using and pragmatic information. Thanks for going through all the effort to do these comparisons. Hope progress with new studio going well and you are settling in. Moving always more effort that anticipated.

Thank You‼️ for once again being the one doing this tedious boring (but important!) research for so many people 🥰 Thank You!

i do love the fact that your filament guide on your Voron is still a V6 heatbreak with a C Clamp

Awesome video! It's so cool to dive into something so deep that doesn't seem all that difficult. Personally I use PVC glue. It's mostly used for bonding pvc rain pipes and in my experience it works well on 3D prints. Also it is really cheap and you're getting a good amount for the price. Keep up the good work Tom!

Great rundown Tom! Love seeing some data. I think you did great to work past the mic issues!

Really intresting results. I work in automotive and we use vhb everywhere. I engineered some bodyside rub strips for a car manufacturer I think (would need to check) they used a pc/abs substrate injection mouldings with vhb to attach to a painted door. I tested them in an environmental chamber for over a week with no issues I could have picked a car up with them. I guess because of the large surface area. Took a good 40 minutes to get them off again the stuff is a nightmare to remove used a rubber wheel on a drill.

Thank you Thomas. I myself have sometimes struggled with this issue over the years. I have settled with mechanical joints when I need parts to be strongly held together, be it fasteners (screws) or other 3D printed parts and hot glue when the parts will not endure high stress.

As always, I really like your technical video. Great Job.

Thanks again, as usual, what are the great testing. I was surprised at the Super glue, but the results speak for themselves, thank you.

Thanks Thomas!

Thanks for doing all this work for us. I've been liking JB Weld's light activated cyanoacrylate adhesive. The light source with the LED on the dispenser makes it easy to control the run out. I've also finally started using the 3D Gloop! I bought a while ago and never really used. So long as you clamp the part it work amazingly well (the PLA breaks first). VHB is a pressure-sensitive adhesive, so really needs to be clamped to get the best results. I still won't work well under shear though.

Thanks for a great and informative video

Hi Tom, great content & quality once again, thank you! Good solution there for the mic out :-) never tried it myself, but i have read ans seen many people specifically use baking powder for the superglue filler.

Hope you're doing better! Glad to have you back

love my hotglue for printe parts, but nice to see the alternatives

Awesome video! This kind of content takes so much work and time, I really appreciate it :)

Hi Tom. I work with gluing up 3D prints almost daily. I'd like to mention that CA glues, I have found have very useful variants. There are Thin, Medium, and Thick variations, as well as some which are rubber toughened. I typically use accelerators with them, but not always. Accelerators can cause glues to boil and bubble in some situations causing aerated volume increase. I'm eager to see how it works with PETG. My favorite CA so far is Starbond. They have a great variety, and I keep all four I mentioned at the ready.

Great! I finally have an answer what I can glue PETG and PCTG with.

Hi Tom, Great vid. I find a contact adhesives work great (I print in PLA/PLA+ only). I have not done any strength tests as most of my prints are display models rather than functional parts. I do also use 2 part epoxy and CA glue sometimes.

Yes I did learned something from this video Thomas, I have been using super glue for glueing models together, I did use resin in the past as well, and that did also worked pretty great

Thank you, Good content, well described with comprehensive results. New follower

I like your scientific approach, keep the good job!

Thank you so much, This video was so helpfull for me.

Congrats on getting the new studio setup

We use Loctite 3D Universal Bonder at work and love it! Mostly PLA and ABS prints. I wish it came with more mixing tips though since it’s a 2 part adhesive.

Kudos for the edition! the mini Thomas as a narrator was a nice workaround

You're giving Project Farm competition! Very elaborate testing.

ich liebe deine test methode, super video vielen dank dafür und immer weiter so !

I miss two glues i used with PLA in the past: PVC-glue (the stuff that is used to glue PVC water pipes etc.) and Bison Kit Adhesive. Both work very well.

I just used some JBweld 2 part epoxy for plastic on some models I needed to glue the arms and legs onto. I knew I didn't want to use super glue because it can't gap fill and it just runs all over my fingers. Awesome video!

Wow! Super helpful info!

good to see you recovered well :)

I've gone through a lot of adhesives and solvents trying to find what works for me with various materials and uses. For me, CA (esp. Loctite Ultra gel) works a treat with PLA and adequately with most PETGs. Epoxy (yay JB weld) is very solid if not too thinly applied with just about everything. If I really need strength, it's solvents e.g. Weld-on 3 or 4 (I like 4 for PETG). When working with TPU, which admittedly I haven't done a lot, I've found Loctite 406 (with or without primer) to be almost as good as a solvent (being a CA, also works with PLA and PETG). For a solvent, I used DMF once and it welded TPU great (I hear THF also works but I haven't tested it). I mostly stick (ha!) with 406 since it's more versatile for me.

@johnbickford9221

2 жыл бұрын

I have been using Weld-on 3 for PLA and it's fantastic. I also have some 3DGloop but unused. I have a funny feeling the secret ingredient is Methylene Chloride. (well ventilated!)

@lukasmatzinger

Жыл бұрын

@@johnbickford9221

I had a i3 knock off printer break a few years ago, but my new Prusa MK3S+ is arriving on Monday. Pretty excited to get back into the game.

Excellent video - I'm glad to see my use of a meme adhesive is not in vain! 😂 I had to use JB Weld to fasten some PETG parts together and it does great. I did notice tackiness/softness as well initially, though I thought that might be due to the fact the tubes were several years old since I opened them and figured the activator might have aged. Eventually, it hardened more.

Contact cement aka shoe glue would have been an interesting comparison to see. Since it's not a rigid glue, I can see it working well with TPU

Nice comparison 👍 I have had good experience with UHU Hartplastik and UHU Allplast for PLA

Love how you used the prusa as a spool holder, most expensive spool holder.

For PLA (and to some extend also PETG), "UHU Hartkunststoff" works very well. It dissolves part of the material and kinda welds them together at the joint. From its usage it works just like normal glue, so its easy to use as well.

@PTEC3D

2 жыл бұрын

I think I can find UHU products here in Australia, I remember them from my childhood in Wien.

@ElectraFlarefire

2 жыл бұрын

@@PTEC3D Weldon acrylic glue works well. Especially the thicker stuff if you need some gap fill. MEK and DCM are the solvents, so it does the same type of bonding. (But do it in a well ventilated area.)

Excellent! Good to know!

ModgePodge works surprisingly well for my PLA gluing. It also dries clear.

I have used Testors model glue on PLA. It seems to do a decent enough job. Also contact cement as long as you have a nice flat surface to join together.

I got some "3D Gloop" glue for PLA and PETG at Maker Faire in Orlando. Works like a charm. The PLA stuff is "methylene chloride and other stuff" - the PETG stuff is not in arm's reach.

Great series of tests Thom. A small note -- JBWeld is an epoxy, but a heavily steel-reinforced one. It is perhaps not the best representative for "generic" two-part epoxies. In the UK there's Araldite, globally 3M Scotch-Weld, Loctite (but those are usually more industrial use) and I'm sure there's a fairly generic one in Germany too.

@kerricaine

2 жыл бұрын

what's a good alternative for "less reinforced" epoxy? when i used JB weld, i figured it'd be fine to let it harden and sand way the blobs on the outside. i ended up having to take a full palm sander to it to even get it down a bit.

Mini Thomas narration is something you should 100% do more of.

Thanks Thomas.

very instructive. Greetings from the Galilee.

Good analysis

wow that blue shelf in the background is a work of art...god bless Germany

I really like E6000/GOOP in general, and it works really well with PETG. They're similar to the FixAll you used. They stay rubbery. And because they are more cohesive than adhesive, they're easy to remove with a little stretching.

@bobdavis321

Жыл бұрын

E6000 is my favorite too, but in some applications I need something stronger.

With the advent of PLA+, almost no one uses PETG anymore. I print almost exclusively in petg because almost all my prints are functional so I'm SO happy you covered it.

I like and now only use Weldon 16 for PLA, hands down the best but probably not the best stuff for you. CA and epoxy are good too if surface prep is good.

@bobmvideos

2 жыл бұрын

Underrated post. Weldon 16 was a game changer for me.

@mentatsolutions1101

2 жыл бұрын

honestly dont know why you would use anything other than weld on #16 on PLA. Easy application, no mixing, cures in a couple of minutes and makes a stronger bond than CA glue without having to use an activator or filling agent

Something I feel you are missing is standard wood glue. I use it ALOT on my bigger projects and it have never failed me..

Yeah, the mini-Thomas was pretty awesome. I'm glad you were able to apply a patch to this, keeping the same content. I've watched this a few times now. I'd love to see another series of videos that maybe focus on a specific type of adhesive. So one video for different types of super glue (my favorite, I love CA), and a different video for JB Weld or whatever. I'm not a fan of epoxy, so it's nice to have my CA bias ("super glue is very good") proven with a visually fun and scientific method. I don't often have curvy/gaps in my parts, so it's nice to see that CA generally ends up being stronger than the parts themselves.

Epic and helpful Thanks

Hi, nice test, I came from a plastic industries out of the old day's , made Signs from Acrylic, vacuum forming and a lot of other things. So got some old stuff at my place Röhm 117 glue for Acrylic and Methylene Chloride, those work incredible good with PLA and PET, you can also use acetone and the gel form of superglue. Like to see more of your tests! Kind regards, Tom

Cheers hope you're feeling well, that has been interesting and saved me a lot of experimenting, thank you for the work that went into the test. I have also thought about a construction adhesive (Liquid Nails here in Australia) and also some of the adhesives like Airfix glue, contact cement, and some unknown Brand XYZZY (i.e. I have no idea the brand it's in unknown characters) that I haven't really had a chance yet to try. If I get time in the next few weeks I'll post to Twitter or something. My tests aren't quite as sophisticated (actually I don' have tests per se...) so ... wish me luck. Also - using short pieces of filament chucked in a dremel tool and friction welding, I have done this and think it's better than many adhesives but can get quite ugly and need filing and sanding afterwards. I'll see if I have pictures of a case I tacked together using friction welding and liked it so much I just left it like that. And also also - bicarb and superglue works extremely well but is just as messy as the superglue filler, actually it looks the same but bicarb is heaps cheaper...

Nice video. I would have liked to see a comparison to heating the pla an melting the joint together instead of gluing it.

Super glue gel with activator spray to fill up any gaps works great. The gel does not has the hassle by "running" away.

I would really love to see some tests cross-material! For when you need PLA for it's properties but maybe a tpu hinge or flex parts.

A couple of weeks ago I glued a screw made from PLA that I use for a desk mount for a gamecontroller and which broke in the thread close to the shank. I glued it with Loctite and I used the screw several times already and I always put a lot of torque on it, but it didn't break again. So it looks to me that Loctite is a very good adhesive for PLA as well.

Solvents, although not technically glues, deserve featuring. As you stated, PLA can be difficult to glue. Weld-on 3 or 4 chemicals bond PLA extremely well, almost as good as printer, and in some temperature cases, better.

@rabbadak

2 жыл бұрын

The right solvent can make all the difference. Just look at what acetone does to ABS, and what IPA does to hot glue.

@lupeters213

2 жыл бұрын

DCM and products containing it are regulated in the EU and kind of hard to get.

@joeking433

2 жыл бұрын

FO.

Bro bro thanks for such great research.

I do mainly structural prints in PLA+ and have been using super glue gel from Harbor Freight. I have tried most of the major brands available here in the US but the HF bonds better (failure of print material before the adhesive) and is cheap. (3.99 US for 10 tubes). Their gel is perfect for what I do as it is thinner than most gels but thick enough to fill gaps and inconsistencies when needed. The "mini me" save on the video did a good job of saving the video without being too corny.

I liked your spin on fixing a messed up recording. That worked well. Invest in a a green screen and that'll make your production look so much smoother (no white outline on your inset overlay)

I use ABS slurry (ABS dissolved in Acetone) as an adhesive for PLA. I think it works really well and would be interested in how it holds up to comparative testing in future videos.

@hedsy

Жыл бұрын

Use Scigrip #16 Fast set acrylic for PLA. It sets fast and it's strong. It welds the material together.

It is odd that the ‘None’ control performed better than the adhesives, considering that some of the tests broke at the plastic rather than the bond line. I wonder it VampCaff’s comment about the bonding agent affecting the plastic is a cause or if there are other factors involved? Since I print functional parts, bond or plastic degradation over time would be an important consideration in the choice of adhesives. Thanks for the work, Tom, appreciate it.

There's two more tests your really need to do to see the differences between the different glues: pulling directly against the glue surface, and dropping things from a moderate height. I say this because CA glue is SO strong for forces that are pulling on the joint - but it's also brittle and tends to shatter when subjected to shearing forces. So CA glue is fine for most things, until you drop it. Also: I love that you ran up against the challenges of ADR and just nerped out of it. :D

Baking soda is a great filler with CA glue. I’ve used it to fix nut grooves on guitars. It sets solid and durable.

I’ve used CA on PLA and Nylon an few times now with great results. The nylon really surprised me. Add a little baking soda for a bit more structure if needed.

CA glue (particularly if you look at woodworking supplies) can be used in different consistencies and have an accelerator spray that may be of use for immediate set up. You can check that out too

Did some prop work at my old job, we used hotglue all the time, you can get some specialty types that, believe it or not, are heat resistant. Used some for a qi charger in my car, it handled being in the car during the summer at 30°C (outside)

note: bending stress is really a tensile stress with much less area and leverage involved. (vs a pure normal oriented axial tensile "pull"

Before I had a enclosed printer i used PETG too. But PETG is hard to clue and it can damage the build surface easily. I now have a Voron 2.4 and print in ABS only. ABS is strong and can resist high temperatures too. My go to material for now.

I use contact glue along with epoxy and super glue. The contact glue is for joins that either need to break neatly at the join or are meant to be pried possibly open at some point. Super glue is by far most used, i use gel+accelerator. Much easier to use when it is a bit thicker and you have more time to fit the parts nicely and then spray with accelerator to make it solid.

Very useful video, thank you.

I have had excellent results using liquid Paint Stripper for gluing/welding PETG parts together. You should wear gloves and work in a well ventilated area (outside). It can also cause a white discoloration where it is applied so be neat if looks matter. I tested it against several plastic adhesives and it worked the best.

love your solution to dead mike. thinking outside the box excellent....thanks for the testing. :-)

There are LSE primers available for low surface energy materials like PP, PE, even teflon apparently. It's supposed to increase bonding on these materials. I used it to glue magnets into PETG using "rubber reinforced" superglue. It was called "3770 primer". Found it on eBay. Don't know how much impact it makes, and I don't know if printed plastic is considered LSE.

For PLA, acrylic glue (solvent based cement for glueing plexiglas/PMMA) works well - it seems the solvent used for PMMA/acrylic also dissolves PLA, and creates a strong weld bond. This is a one-component glue that's sold in the hardware store as a squeeze tube, so it's a bit less hassle than 2-component glues.

@hedsy

Жыл бұрын

Scigrip #16 Fast set

I am very happy with UHU Plast for PLA. Sticks like pitch, lasts and makes strong parts.

3m has a primer for low energy plastics as well, makes basically any normal glue or tape work really well

@fat_pigeon

Жыл бұрын

You can also use heptane or other liquid alkanes. The 3M primer is just heptane with triphenylphosphine added as a curing agent for superglue. So if you're using something other than superglue, plain heptane should work just as well.

I've had excellent results (strong after a few years) from flexible/rubberized ca glues.

I've been using aerospace grade vhb tape for years. It's very effective

The green screen thing was really creative and a really undisruptive way of correcting the mistake! Greetings from your neighbors to the west

3DGloop looks really good for joining parts with. It is, of course, a specific product for a specific plastic. Haven't tried it myself yet but it looks very interesting. But they do have PLA, PET and ABS gloop.

@calebjpryor

2 жыл бұрын

I was surprised to not see 3d gloop on these tests. Stuff is amazing

Model glue. Direct extruder mount I printed in 2 pieces because I just couldn't get the line up right. Glued, clamped and left over night and the stepper mount was solid. This was Overture PLA+

Omg tiny Tom is a cool and unique narrator, you need to him back for future videos